Why do you need front brakes on a bicycle

sema34 Blog why front brakes are needed ?

rushed very quickly, in front of me the Kent, the identity of the bike, began to turn somewhere, I pressed the front brakes for some reason ((and into the asphalt! nah we need front brakes in general ?

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Just about)) When I put my own in order for the cooperative, I probably flew for an hour and a half))

Do you know how to adjust the speed? And then half does not work for me (

I don’t know how, contact, for example, CALIPSO, on the cross in front of the Savings Bank there is a shop and the guys will help! As far as I know, there is nothing difficult there !

You need to get to them.) Or dig deeper yourself, we can get it)

If the system of these stars is not weird, then, in principle, you should succeed)

There was a similar situation three years ago. I took a light stealth from the kid (and my striker is three times heavier), and out of habit I wanted to lift the rear wheel It’s good that I was driving in the sand

And I set it up so that the front ones only go to pick up, already when I almost stopped)

Even broke you a lot The speed was probably normal, yes?

And mine stood for a year, that year did not even roll out of the garage at all) This year I made the brakes, pumped up the wheels, washed it, and painted the fenders (I don’t know for how long, plastic, after all) I’m still not going to ride)

bicycle is a theme! I thought on it and move little by little, but it was not there now, neither on it nor on a wheelbarrow (((

I see more and more people are thinking about bicycles this year)

Bicycle clips

Cycling will only be fun if the bike is technically in good working order. And to increase comfort, various types of upgrades are used. And all these parts and elements must be securely connected and secured. For this purpose, bicycle hooks are used.

What it is

In simple terms, bonks are special nuts and bolts that are hollow inside. They are also called rivets or threaded nuts. With their help, internal threads are obtained on parts with thin walls. When it comes to the bike, the sprockets are usually used to attach the drive sprockets to the spider on the crank arm. But this is not the only area of ​​application. They can be used both on metal structures and on parts made of softer material. Such as, for example, plastic.

Bonks are used not only for the bike. They are suitable for fixing hollow profile parts. These can be pipes, barrels, casings and other components of a similar type. This is due to the fact that access from the back side of the element is not required to attach the booms.

Varieties of parts

In each specific case, bicycle links are selected separately (by size and type). So, most often the following materials are used for the production of threaded nuts:

  • Aluminum;
  • Stainless steel;
  • Cink Steel.

Speaking of sizes, three groups can be roughly distinguished:

  • Small (with a diameter of 4 to 6 mm);
  • Medium (6.3 to 10 mm);
  • Large (over 10 mm in diameter).

In addition, you can choose the most suitable color option. Details can be golden yellow, blue, red, black. So there is an option for every bike.

Bonok benefits

The use of threaded nuts is due to the following advantages:

  • The thread can withstand severe stress, despite the small wall thickness of the part.
  • Combines simultaneously the tasks of two types of connection: threaded and riveted.
  • It can be installed “blindly”, that is, if there is access only from one side.
  • Withstands temperature influences.
  • Does not cause corrosion in the installation sites.
  • Do not require strong financial costs.

From the technical point of view, you can use it at any time. The existing coating will not be damaged, as the bonds are installed in a pre-prepared hole.

Installation

The process of installing a bike link is simple in itself. And it doesn’t require a lot of tools. As a rule, the nut is slotted. And for the bolt, you need a hexagon or an asterisk. In the event that the couplings are installed simultaneously on two rings, a special key may be required. Take the Park Tool Chain Nut Wrench, for example. It is inexpensive. Allows you to hold the link on the inner sprocket while it is twisted (or, conversely, loosened) with a wrench.

Conventionally, the whole process can be divided into two stages: fastening the part and creating a channel with a thread inside. In this case, the dusting already available on the bike will not be affected. Accordingly, there will be no new center of corrosion in this place.

The riveting tool has a threaded spindle that can be unscrewed (it is replaceable). For installation, the nut is inserted into the product. The spindle is screwed into it. During the retraction of the spindle into the tool, the nut is upset. After that, it remains only to unscrew the spindle from the nut.

The clips will keep the bike system working. If they are damaged, a gear shifting malfunction may occur. The sprockets may even bend. Therefore, you need to periodically service your bike. And then he will delight you for a long time.

Bicycle horns. why are they needed?

Owners of bicycles with horns on the handlebars are often viewed condescendingly as newbies who abuse bicycle accessories for the sake of a stylish and even aggressive appearance of the bike. Sometimes horns come with cheap bikes and quickly deteriorate. The rider happily forgets about them, never having time to take advantage of all the benefits of these useful elements. What are bicycle horns really for, and who simply cannot do without them??

The main function of the steering tips is that they make it possible to change the position of the hands on the steering wheel. This allows you to relieve the muscles of the wrists, arms, back and less fatigue. The vertical grip is physiologically more correct for the hands. In this case, the hand is better supplied with blood, the hands do not become numb, which means that the productivity of skating increases.

What riding styles will horns be needed for??

Bicycle horns are most often mounted on straight handlebars, as well as mountain bikes. The purpose of the installation is to reduce fatigue during long journeys without the need for intensive maneuvering. In a cycling trip, for example, horns are definitely indispensable, because you can change the position of your hands and give them a rest without slowing down or stopping.

Steering tips are useful for those who exercise regularly for at least 3-4 hours. If you only ride your bike for work and business, you probably won’t need the handlebar horns. In the same way, fans of extreme types of skiing. downhill, freeriding, do not need them. These accessories will be superfluous on bicycles that provide a straight fit, since the load on such bikes is already evenly distributed. In dangerous areas, when you need to reach for the brakes, the steering tips only get in the way.

To radically change the position of the bike, you just need to change the position of the horns on the handlebars. turn them inward or outward. If you often cycle uphill, it is much more convenient to do this by standing up from the saddle and grasping the vertical horns.

Additional functions of the steering tips:

  • Horns protect the back of the hand when hitting a wall, wood, etc.
  • Hands without gloves often slide over the grips, and the horns prevent this.
  • If during the repair process you need to turn the bike upside down, then all equipment attached to the handlebars. a bicycle computer, a flashlight, a bell. are protected from scratches and damage, they do not have to be removed.

After all, you can hang a bicycle helmet, goggles or a bag of groceries on the “horned” handlebars so they won’t slip off. Additional equipment can be installed on the horns themselves, for example, a rear-view mirror, a flashlight.

Of the minuses. the horns can cling to branches while riding in wooded areas. They also reduce the length of the handlebars by about 2 cm on each side, but for most riders this is almost invisible. Horns reduce the bike’s maneuverability, so beginners should be more careful, especially when cornering. It will take longer to move your hands from the horns to the brake.

Bicycle horns differ:

  • According to the material. Steel and aluminum horns are reliable and durable. Plastic ones are lighter, but less reliable. Carbon ones combine lightness and reliability, but are more expensive.
  • By lenght. The short ones protect the wrist and prevent the hands from slipping off the grip. Medium length tips give one additional hand position, but due to the different angle of installation, the hand position can be changed. Long horns are considered the most comfortable.
  • By form. Straight bike paths are essentially smooth tubes on which the hand can slide slightly. Anatomical ones have special notches for the wrist and are more convenient for many hours of skiing. Curved provides the maximum number of brush placement options, from which you can choose the most convenient. They are more expensive, weigh more, increase the dimensions of the bike, but the protective function of such tips is more powerful.

When choosing horns, make sure they are at least as long as the width of your palm. Their surface should not have sharp corners and other elements that could create inconvenience while driving.

Setting the brakes

You need to decide on their type: disc, rim or hydraulic and check them empty.

It is easier to adjust the brakes on a bike with a rack that makes maintenance and repairs easier.

If it is not there, it does not matter: lifting the wheel (first the front one), you need to spin it, then pressing the brake lever. With a quickly stopping wheel, we can say that they are in good order. When the handle already touches the steering wheel, and braking does not occur, the cable should be adjusted. Having finished checking the front wheel, go to the rear.

To tension the cable, there are figured bolts on the brake handle, which are slightly tightened if minor adjustments are required.

If this adjustment does not work, the cable is inserted into the slot located on the handle. A cylinder is provided at the end, thanks to which it is held on the handle. The end of the cable is noticeable because it is longer than required. Determine where the end of the bike is on the bike and which bolt holds the brake. Use pliers to loosen or tighten the cable. To tighten the cable, tighten the bolt harder.

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Adjusting the V-Brake system

The adjustment is carried out in several stages:

  • adjustment begins with a search for a nut used to fix the pads, which will need to be loosened, and then set the part as needed. By applying pressure to the brake, it is determined which pad is in contact with the rim. After releasing it, slide the block, if necessary. You can move the block to any angle, up and down, so it’s easy to set it up;
  • further, the adjustment concerns the setting of the gap between the pads and the rims (it is the same between the right and left). Depending on the type of bike, it is in the range of 1-3 millimeters. Braking should occur when the handle is lightly pressed and, in no case, the wheel should not rotate when the handle is already pressed halfway, i.e. braking should not come when it is pressed all the way.

Adjusting the brakes on a bicycle includes checking after adjustment. They check this by alternately lifting the rear and front wheels, and then, testing in “business”, since this also happens: the wheel normally brakes in the air, but while driving, it barely works when the handle is pressed.

Adjusting the brakes (V-Brake)

Setting up the brakes means paying attention to every detail, from the brake levers to the brake pads.

Brake levers should be located so that they can be reached quickly and comfortably. In order to adjust the position of the brake lever, loosen the fastening screw, place the handle as it is convenient for you and fix it. Usually there is a screw on the brake lever, with which you can adjust the distance of the brake lever to the grip. adjust the position of the lever with it.

Second step. Position of the brake pads

It is easier to adjust the position of the brake pads as follows: press one of the pads with your hands close to the rim, adjust its position. Make sure that the block is not too low (the edge of the block is below the rim), but also not too high. the block touches the tire.

I would like to draw special attention to the next moment, since there is little clear written about it. Until the nut of which the shoe is fixed is not tightened, the shoe has three degrees of freedom: the washers form something like a ball joint. (Pay attention to how many washers are there? That’s what they are for!). It is believed that the leading edge of the pads should touch the rim slightly earlier than the rear. Therefore, we do this: put a small gasket under the rear end (see fig).

This number of washers is needed to get something like a ball joint

Now you can tighten the nut that fixes the shoe.

Step three. Centering the positions of the levers

At this step, you need to fix the brake cable: so that the brake pads touch the rims at least a little if you press the brake lever. At the bottom of the levers there are special bolts that adjust the tension of the springs that press the pads against the rim.

We set it up as follows: press the brake and see which of the pads touches earlier. For the one that touched earlier, we increase the spring tension (or vice versa, weaken it on the other side). It is necessary to ensure that the pads touch the rim at the same time.

Fourth step. Adjusting the distance from the pads to the rim

I believe that this distance should be as small as possible. (1-2 mm. If the rim is even). But then the brakes will work very sharply. the slightest pressure leads to sharp braking. Therefore, the distance can be made a little more.

The distance is adjusted in two steps: first, due to the screw with which the cable is attached to the brakes. Then fine tuning on the brake lever.

The large washer acts as a lock: when it is tightened, the cable tension adjustment screw cannot be turned.

Setting up the brakes on a bike

Checking the tension of the cable

Insufficient cable tension is characterized by the position of the brake lever at which braking begins. You can check this on the go, or by lifting the wheel, untwisting it and pressing the brake. The sooner the wheels stop when pressed, the faster the bike can stop.

If during braking it is possible to press the brake lever more than half the distance to the steering wheel without much effort, you must tighten the brake cable. A slight cable tension can be tightened on the brake lever using a shaped bolt.

Braking. When To Use The Front & Rear Brakes

If the handle is easy to push all the way to the handlebars, pull the cable from the side of the brakes themselves. The cable is attached to the brake with a special screw. To tension the cable, it is necessary to unscrew this screw, tighten the cable with pliers, and fix it by tightening the adjusting screw tightly. As a rule, when fixing the cable, a small tail remains, which should not be too long. To prevent the cable from getting into the wheels or other bicycle systems, the excess part of the cable must be wound or cut off, leaving a small margin, not exceeding a few centimeters.

How to adjust disc brakes

The adjustment consists in pulling the cable. But the replacement of the pads is also necessary until they are completely erased. Although they wear off more slowly than rims. The hydraulic brakes are self-adjusting during pad wear. But they will also have to be regulated, for which special valves are provided.

Adjustment of disc brakes is related to the tension of the cable, which provides braking. As in the rim pads, the pads here should be at the same distance from the disc. 0.2-0.4 mm. Check this after the cable is properly tensioned.

Special bolts will help to change their position relative to the disk. When twisting, the movement of the block is visually determined. Having set the specified distance, they check if they are catching the disk. Since the gap is small, care must be taken. Be sure to check them in real conditions. You can make sure of reliability by driving on a flat road.

If the brake adjustment on the bike was successful, you can go on the bike for a long journey.

Adjusting disc brakes

Pads on disc brakes wear less than pads on a bicycle equipped with a rim braking system. Braking with disc brakes can be more effective than with rim brakes, but in the same price category, v-brakes can be more practical and more effective than disc brakes.

Disc brakes are mechanical and hydraulic. Adjusting mechanical disc brakes involves adjusting the cable tension and adjusting the position of the pads. The design of the hydraulic brake system allows you to limit yourself to adjusting the cable tension, since the pads adjust independently as they wear out, except for the closed-type system. Closed-type hydraulic brake pads must be adjusted using special valves.

The position of the shoes is adjusted using the adjusting bolts. The distance that must be set between the pads is within tenths of a millimeter. The pads, as in the case of rim brakes, must be installed symmetrically relative to the disc, and are located at the same distance relative to it. After setting the clearance, it is necessary to check that when the wheel rotates, the pads do not come into contact with the disc. The correct setting of the gap must ensure timely brake engagement. For maximum braking performance, the brake lever travel should not exceed half the distance to the handlebar.

After checking the disc brake setting with the raised wheels, a small test drive should be done. In this case, you should act carefully, gently pressing the handles. If the braking is not effective enough, the cable should be tightened, this is done in the same way as when using v-brake.

Correct weight distribution is the key to a successful stop!

When braking at high speed, the front of the bike is the most heavily loaded. With a sharp deceleration, the body moves forward by inertia, which can lead to somersault of the cyclist. If the grip of the tires is weak, it is worth transferring most of your own body weight to the rear wheel. To do this, you can press on the pedals or the saddle. Keep your hands relaxed and focus on the direction of movement. A little pressure on the handlebars will significantly change the load on the bike and can lead to an emergency.

On slippery roads, the rear brakes should be accentuated. The sliding rear wheel is more pliable to control. Blocking the “front end” can cause it to break, which will provide a “spectacular” and painful fall.

Emergency bike braking: mountain slopes and off-road

Off-road and rough terrain driving requires special braking skills. Driving even on small slopes and bumps can imply loss of traction. Therefore, when braking on steep slopes, you should transfer your body weight to the rear wheel as much as possible and release the front brake when jumping. Landing with a clamped brake system can end in a beautiful, but very unpleasant for the cyclist somersault.

It is important to cool the brake pads when descending for a long time. Continuous application of the brakes will overheat the stopping system and can damage the rims. In this situation, it is worth using the experience of motorists who carry out sharp decelerations, after which they start the vehicle by coasting, giving the braking system time to cool down.

It is important to be careful on the road

Unlike road transport, bicycles are not equipped with additional safety features. The brakes and handling skills of a two-wheeled friend can help avoid danger on the road and even save the life of a cyclist.

The work of the bicycle brake system is built on the same principle as in other vehicles. Therefore, the skills of driving a car or a motorcycle can be very useful. The only difference between car and bicycle stopping systems is the distribution of loads on the front and rear wheels. In machines, it happens automatically. Cycling requires the ability to perform these actions manually.

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Rear and front brakes: which one is better to use?

Newbie cycling enthusiasts most often have problems with the braking systems of high-speed bikes. Some cyclists find front brakes completely useless or even dangerous. The stories of friends about unsuccessful somersaults through the handlebars during the application of the front brakes especially affect cyclists. As a result, the front end can be weakened as much as possible or completely disabled.

This error is often the cause of even fatal consequences. This is because the front brakes are much more effective during emergency stops. The rear brake drive is best used for steering a bike or as an auxiliary stopping system.

How to brake properly on a bike

Almost every novice cyclist, when purchasing his first bike, thinks about what the braking system should be and how to use it effectively. We will try to lay out the main principles of braking on a bike and analyze the most difficult points associated with this action.

How to properly carry out braking “front end”?

To use the brakes efficiently and safely, it is worth learning to “feel” the work of the stopping system. To slow down sharply at high speeds, you can only use the front brake. But it takes a lot of skill and experience to use it, don’t grip the handle hard and hold it until the bike comes to a stop. Complete blocking of the front wheel will inevitably cause the cyclist to fly over the handlebars. Sharp, pinpoint clicks will help you balance between the edge of the lock and the free movement of the bike. This will allow for a sharp deceleration, but will not affect vehicle control in any way.

When entering a corner, it is premature to slow down the driving pace. Otherwise it will be very difficult to avoid falling. This is especially true on slippery and wet roads.

Braking with the front brake of the bicycle

Bicycle wheels have insufficient contact with the road surface. Therefore, the most important factor for effective bike handling is front loading. In case of emergency braking with the rear brakes, the wheel can skid and the braking distance will become very long. Stopping is much easier when using the front stop drive in a difficult situation.

To use the front brakes correctly and safely, you will have to spend a lot of time training. But once you reach a certain level, you will never regret it. The only ones who should release the front brakes are children and also the elderly.

Can’t be distracted from the road

Most new cyclists look at the steering column when braking or changing direction. This is a very big mistake. Management must be carried out on a subconscious level so that the eyes can see and control the traffic situation. Imagine what it would be like when every motorist, when engaging a gear or braking, would take his eyes off the road. In this case, it would be impossible to avoid accidents. Therefore, it is worth remembering the main rule of managing any vehicles. you cannot be distracted from the traffic situation.!

Scheme of work

The principle of operation of the system is based on the use of the friction force arising in the process of interaction of brake pads and wheel rim.

Structurally, any rim system includes:

  • paired levers for the front and rear wheels;
  • brake pads made of dense rubber;
  • control handles;
  • cables connecting all components;
  • brake cable covers.

The scheme of the kit is quite simple. When physically acting on the control handle, the force is transmitted through the cables to the levers with pads fixed on them. There is a clamping of the wheel rim between the surfaces of the shoes. As a result, the bike slows down or stops. The more the application force, the more the rim is clamped, the faster the object slows down.

Compared to other types of rim braking mechanisms, they have a lot of advantages: they are not expensive, easy to maintain and repair, have a high degree of modulation, and practically do not have a harmful effect on the hubs and spokes of the wheel.

At the same time, this design has a number of significant disadvantages, which are recommended to be taken into account when choosing and purchasing a bike.

Front Brake Vs Rear Brake? | Ask GMBN Anything About Mountain Biking

[attention type = yellow] Important! In rainy weather, in mud, the efficiency of the rim mechanisms is significantly reduced. When abrasive materials hit the surface of the rim, there is an increased wear of the brake pads and the metal of the wheel. [/ attention]

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Cantilever systems

The prototype of the V-brake brakes. Gradually replaced by the latter due to a number of design flaws. The disadvantages include. insignificant braking power, the need for frequent regulation. Systems of this type, even expensive brands, take time and mileage to grind the pads. Until the end of the grinding process, the brakes function rather mediocre.

Types and characteristics

Rim brakes have come a long way during their evolution. They have come down to us in the form of pliers, cantilever, V-brakes and hydraulic systems. Each type has its own specific features, advantages and disadvantages.

need, front, brakes, bicycle

V-brakes systems

The vector design is by far the most advanced and popular version of rim brakes. Levers with attached pads are connected with a cable and adjoin the wheel in the form of a V. Characterized by ease of maintenance, high reliability, low weight.

In recent years, V-brake kits have been gaining ground in professional sports, overtaking disc-type systems. The reason is increased operational safety. For example, at the 2015 Tour de France races, a racer severely injured his hand as a result of a fall and hitting his forearm on the rotating disc brake rotor moving in front of the bike. Consequence. Many riders find it warranted to switch to vector brakes.

Caliper brakes

The appearance resembles a tick, with a similar working principle. The brake levers are in an X-shaped connection and are attached to the base frame at one point. Simplicity of design and easy setup do not bring this model to the top of popularity.

The reason is the unreliability of the design and the relatively large weight. If lumps of dirt get in, misalignment, or deformation of the rim, the levers are skewed, which causes a number of additional problems. Including increased friction of the pads, and their premature wear. No less significant drawback. certain restrictions on the use of tires with a wide profile.

Technique for correct bicycle braking

Many people grew up and were brought up by their relatives, friends and relatives, from whom they adopted the foundations of life, attitudes and even principles, as well as an absolute inability and lack of understanding of the technique of safe and correct braking on a bicycle. This is especially true for many girls and cycling beginners who do not even think about improving their riding level and do not delve into the issue. Unfortunately, people are often herd instinct and blindly follow the crowd along the path of least resistance. Women are often driven by a heightened sense of self-preservation that takes precedence over any logic. With the help of this article, you can finally learn how to stop your bike correctly, safely and effectively, and the level of riding will increase many times.

So that the technique of correct braking on a bicycle does not cause fear and bewilderment, let us turn to the theory: as you know and it is no secret that most modern bicycles (even the cheapest ones) are equipped with TWO brakes. front and rear. This was done not at all for reasons of malice or a desire to play a trick on a careless cyclist, but on the contrary, it implies an increase in braking efficiency, taking into account the correct and timely use of BOTH brakes. So, the common truth of correct and safe braking sounds like this: to slow down the movement of the bike, you MUST use only the FRONT brake, while the rear brake is designed to HELP the front brake in case of insufficient efficiency due to certain external factors. In simple and accessible words, the same saying will sound like this: you should always brake with the FRONT brake, but sometimes help it with the rear one, trying, if possible, not to use it again.

This information will cause conflicting feelings of surprise in many and will require an explanation that is available, and it is hidden in the textbooks of many forgotten physics. And in vain, since almost any maneuver or even a trick on a bicycle strictly obeys physical laws, knowledge and understanding of which is absolutely necessary for more or less serious cycling (and what could be more serious and responsible than brakes?). Let’s turn to physics and try to explain once and for all why the front brake formula is the most correct one to dispel any doubts. Imagine a cyclist in motion, his vector of direction and application of force is directed forward (can be conventionally and schematically represented by an arrow). The cyclist is also affected by the force of gravity (arrow down) and the counter resistance of the flow of air masses (arrow back). In all these interactions, however, a person maintains a balance of the “golden mean”, or rather equilibrium: he does not fall forward through the steering wheel, but he does not fall back either. Maintaining this position is facilitated by the geometry of the frame, which, with minimal deviations (depending on the intended riding discipline), is calculated in such a way that the balance point is approximately in the middle of the frame. The rest is controlled by the rider himself by shifting his body weight forward or backward.

However, what does the brakes have to do with it? And all despite the fact that the brakes can be viewed as a tool that can shift this center of balance, to a greater extent, this is facilitated by the front brake. So what happens when a cyclist tries to stop with the front brake? In this case, the front wheel begins to decelerate under the influence of friction of the brake pads on a certain surface (wheel rim or brake disc), and the rider’s body weight at this moment tends by inertia all the same forward, in the course of the initial movement (the same forward arrow, which in the first example simply meant moving both the rider and the bike in that direction). Now we get a picture that the person continues to move forward relative to the bicycle by inertia, while the “two-wheeled friend” continues to slow down under the action of the brake. Thus, the cyclist’s center of gravity is clearly shifted forward, and his body weight at this time acts diagonally downward towards the front wheel and forward, loading the wheel and the shock-absorbed fork. Thus, the human body, in all this chain of forces, HELPS the braking mechanism, loading the front wheel and increasing the effective efficiency of the braking process. Of course, the degree and speed of the process depends on the force and “sharpness” of pressing the brake lever. Once again I emphasize what happens when ONLY the front brake is used: the rider’s weight, combined with the inertial moment, creates better grip of the front wheel with the road surface, pressing it down and creating ideal conditions for high-quality deceleration.

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If we use exclusively the rear brake (ignoring the front one), then the weight of the cyclist in this case, together with the bike itself, will continue to be directed forward (the corresponding arrow), the rear of the bike inevitably becomes unloaded (less grip), and braking loses its efficiency. over, if you press the rear brake lever even harder, then against the background of the reduced efficiency of deceleration of the bicycle, the rear wheel will still lock, but the inertial moment is still preserved, and the bicycle will skid (many are familiar with this effect, I am sure). losing control of management. And if to someone the effect of blocking the rear wheel once seemed like a funny and effective “show-off”, which children often resorted to in childhood to fight on the spot and make their peers envious, then being in a healthy and sober adult mind, I strongly advise you to forget about this is like a bad dream for the above reasons. Simply because it is really dangerous, both for the cyclist and for others, especially at high speeds. It turns out that by applying the front brake, we can easily extinguish the inertial moment directly, and in the case of using the rear brake, inertia is almost not extinguished, since in this case braking is ineffective from behind when acting on the totality of the forces that have arisen. Based on this, a bold conclusion can be drawn: the efficiency of the front brake is 75% or approximately 2/3 of the total braking force.!

So, having finally understood the physics of the process, the conclusion about the use of the front brake becomes clear and obvious, and the technique of correct braking on a bicycle finally becomes available. It is worth noting that the braking of any car occurs according to the same scheme and the role of the rear brakes is often auxiliary, the braking mechanisms of the front wheels are also the first to come into play. In order not to be unfounded, I will give an example from life that happened to me last summer. During another trip to the dacha in his old “Niva”, the rear shock absorber tore out on a huge bump, which in turn damaged the hydraulic pipe of the rear brake circuit. The brakes in the car were completely gone. Somehow, having reached the dacha, I managed to restore the performance of the front contour, and I completely blocked the rear one by tightening the “sorcerer” splitter with two bolts. As a result, the car was left with only the front brakes. When it was time to drive back to the city, there was no limit to surprise, since the effectiveness of the brakes subjectively did not change at all! The car braked in the same way as if it had a working rear circuit. Draw your own conclusions about the effectiveness and importance of the front brake.

But it is not enough to understand the physics of the bicycle braking process, you still need to learn how to use it correctly and take into account some of the nuances. When braking with the front brake, there is a known risk that the cyclist will fly over the handlebars and be seriously injured. But all this risk is reduced “to naught” if the biker knows how to use the brake, “feels” the moment of deceleration subtly, in no case bringing the front wheel to lock. You just need to own a technique perfected to automatism. How can I avoid falling over the handlebars using the front brake? It is important to remember two points that can lead to this outcome, and not to allow them deliberately!

    It is necessary to correctly adjust the brake machines (both front and rear) in order to achieve balance. the wheel does not prematurely lock when the brake lever is pressed lightly, but at the same time so that the brakes do not lose their effectiveness and are still locked in the final position when the brake the handle is pushed as far as it will go. Only this fine tuning guarantees correct, controlled, efficient and safe braking. The rest is a matter of technology.

  • It is necessary to learn to “feel” the work of the brake throughout the entire length of pressing the handle, from the beginning of deceleration to complete blocking of the wheel. This sounds more complicated than it actually is, and it can be developed quickly enough as a result of practical experience. At some point, the skill turns into the category of “automatic action” and the cyclist himself ceases to notice himself and control the correctness of his actions.
  • It is this level that can be considered professional, confident and, of course, safe. In general, you should remember one more golden rule of competent driving. in all situations, avoid locking the wheels, both front and rear! When friction turns into sliding (the bike is skidding), a loss of braking efficiency and bike handling is inevitable. If we look at the device of a car (as a more dangerous and responsible vehicle) by analogy, we can see that engineers have long and almost everywhere solved this problem by introducing an ABS system or an “anti-lock braking system”. As the name suggests, this technology automatically monitors the braking system and prevents the wheels from locking to prevent the slightest decrease in braking efficiency (efficiency)! It makes sense to remember once and for all that you should not allow the wheels to lock in any situations (except perhaps performing specific tricks on a bicycle, when balance is maintained on one front or rear wheel).

    But what then is the role of the rear brake, when and why should it be used? Everything is simple here, as mentioned above. its role is auxiliary, but at the same time it is quite significant in a number of situations. As we have seen many times, the main brake is front, we use it 90% of the time to slow down and stop the bike. However, there are situations where the strength and efficiency of the front brake is not enough. For example, during the descent from a steep mountain down “on the brakes” (in this case, the balance of forces and the center of gravity of the rider are shifted forward, more provoking the likelihood of falling through the steering wheel); or during difficult weather conditions (rain, snow, especially ice) affecting the grip of the wheels with the road surface: or in a situation of extreme braking (in which it is still desirable to use the front brake, but the blocking moment comes much faster, and this must be taken into account) In all these cases, when the effectiveness of the front brake turns out to be low, the rear brake comes to the rescue, and it should be included in the work at the moment close to the blocking of the front wheel. In practice, it looks like this: the cyclist, already confidently feeling the braking range and pressing the brake lever, uses only the front brake, but if the wheel lock moment becomes dangerously close (again, based on the sensations gained by experience), then he helps himself with the rear brake, while without releasing the front handle, holding it on the edge. With the development of these techniques, everything will happen intuitively and quickly, you don’t have to think about the sequence of actions.

    Only this technique of correct braking on a bicycle can be considered correct and effective. By owning it, anyone can reduce the risk of a dangerous situation or even an accident on the road. Mastering this technique is extremely important, since a bicycle, along with moto and road transport, is a means of increased danger (if someone thinks otherwise, they are mistaken), and can cause considerable damage to ordinary pedestrians.

    How can a beginner learn this technique and bring it to automatism? As in many areas of human life, the most effective method of development will be constant and systematic, deliberate practice. At first, it is necessary to control your actions intentionally, not to be afraid to use the front brake contrary to the prevailing stereotypical erroneous opinion, and try to avoid the rear brake. At the very beginning of mastering the technique, you should press the handle smoothly, trying to feel its progress and the bicycle‘s reaction to deceleration. No sudden movements or panic! It is better to slow down a little longer than necessary at first in order to develop the skill and fully introduce this habit into your comfort zone. This, of course, does not apply to extreme situations when you need to act with lightning speed. In this case, it is impossible to squeeze the front brake handle all the way in panic, but it is better to keep in mind the presence of the rear brake, and at first you can use it out of old habit if the situation requires it. It is useful for beginners to practice on a level ground and practice the correct technique on it to learn that it really works as it should. And do not forget about the correct adjustment of the brake mechanisms and the timely replacement of the pads (as well as the pumping of the hydraulic brakes, if you have them installed). Someone’s life and health often depend on good brakes! Good luck to everyone on the road and wisdom in your head!