Which way to unscrew the cassette on the bike

How to disassemble and remove the bicycle carriage yourself

Perhaps fans of simple periodic bike rides are not familiar with this term, but those who often use a bicycle as a vehicle, and even more so, professionals in the field of cycling, are aware of what a bottom bracket mechanism is.

Like any mechanism, this part over time is exposed to external influences, wears out or completely becomes unusable, which requires maintenance, full or partial replacement. In any case, you first need to remove the carriage, establish the suitability of the part, and then decide whether to repair it or replace it with a new one.

Troubleshooting: maintenance, cleaning, replacement

Dismantled the carriage, pulled it out of the frame and what do we see? The condition of the bottom bracket depends on how much dirt gets into it and how much the bearings are worn out. Sometimes the bearings simply shatter and require a complete replacement. This often happens if the carriage assembly has been in operation for more than three to five years.

First, all parts must be checked for defects. This primarily applies to bearings. Then we inspect the carriages, cups with latches. If any component has visible damage, then you need to change it to a new one. The rest of the parts are cleaned in a solvent. The most difficult thing will be to clean the bearings: dirt is very firmly adhered between the balls.

The space inside the carriage glass is cleaned with a rag. It is better to sprinkle fine dirt with a lubricating spray (WD-40, for example) and wipe the walls with a soft dry cloth.

Bicycle carriage repair

Bike bottom bracket problems are familiar to every cyclist. It happens that it loosens up or emits characteristic annoying clicks. This does not always mean that the part needs to be completely replaced. It is enough to competently repair the carriage on a bicycle, without postponing this matter for later.

Convenient instructions for removing this carriage

A lot of people are wondering how to remove the bottom bracket from a bicycle without a puller. The question is quite interesting, but first, let’s look at the instructions for the standard process. It is important to remember that the design of this product contains small bearings, which often crumble. Therefore, you must understand that it is necessary to carry out the removal and repair with accuracy and care.

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Which way the carriage is unscrewed on the bike. Velobaggio

Although the pedal is a simple element of a bicycle, it will only be possible to remove it if you have knowledge. This is usually required in the event of damage, lubrication or replacement of the connecting rod. Which way to unscrew the pedals? This is described in the article.

The pedal is an important component of the system, consisting of:

  • contact, where there is a mount for special shoes;
  • ordinary.
  • Rags. Used for cleansing purposes.
  • Lubrication. After dismantling, the removed elements are cleaned and lubricated.
  • Thinner or kerosene. The fluid is used in situations where the axle cannot be unscrewed, or there is a lot of dirt in some area.

What key to unscrew the pedals on the bike? You will need an adjustable wrench, it is advisable to choose a compact view so that the nut has easy access. An open-end wrench 15 is also required. A bicycle set, a pedal wrench, used for non-standard nuts, will come in handy. In the repair, a puller is used. an additional device for contact models.

After preparing everything you need, you can delete the part. Dismantling is carried out using a special technology. Which way to unscrew the pedals? Each part has its own thread. The right pedal must be unscrewed counterclockwise. This will allow repairs to be made without damage. Which way to unscrew the pedals on the left side? With her, you need to do it clockwise.

  • Removal of the part is carried out with an adjustable wrench.
  • A screwdriver is used to remove the pedal plug located at the end.
  • Unscrewing the lock nut must be performed while holding the axis with a wrench.
  • The lock washer is removed.
  • You need to unscrew the cone.
  • Bearings must be removed to prevent loss of balls.
  • Then you need to remove the pedal from the axis.

Fault definition

The fact that the carriage has become buggy can be found only when you rotate the pedals. Visually, knot problems are difficult to identify, so it is best to prick up your ears and move your attention to the area of ​​the bottom of the frame. You should not listen too much, especially if you are driving on a busy road. However, if the state of the carriage is not good, it will shout about itself without delay.

A faulty bottom bracket will prevent you from cycling quickly. Blocked dirt, worn bearings and lack of lubrication will continually impede movement. All this is accompanied by an unpleasant creak and a characteristic knock from below. Also, the unit may start to play (broken bearings and axle misalignment).

You can finally check whether it is really worth disassembling the carriage using the standing ride method. To do this, you need to accelerate a little, get up from the seat and twist the pedals. When the carriage mechanism is jammed, the sounds and deterioration of the pedal travel will only increase.

In this position, you need to check the condition of the carriage.

Adjusting the bearings

Loose bearings are often the cause of extraneous noise, backlash and unpleasant rattling in the rear wheel carriage. Doing so can damage them, deform the cups or impair the clarity of gear changes. If you experience any suspicious symptoms, you need to consider how to tighten the bottom bracket on your bike. In this case, it is better not to postpone the adjustment. If you have the skills, it will be possible to pull up the carriage even during the trip, bypassing the disassembly stage.

  • Starting work, remove the left connecting rod from the rear carriage and unscrew the lock nut with a special key. Then, using the slotted wrench, slightly loosen the left cup.
  • We twist the left cup almost all the way. It is worth wrapping it loosely or too tightly, as the axle starts to play or jam. To avoid the latter, slightly (about ¼ turn) loosen the cup with a long wrench.
  • After that, screw on the lock nut from above and tighten it all the way with the same wrench that was used to unscrew.
  • Checking how the carriage axis works. To do this, we twist it by hand, then we swing it back and forth on the sides. Even a small lift or a barely perceptible jam is a good reason to repeat the adjustment from the beginning.

If you cannot find a balance between play and seizure even after several attempts, you will have to replace either the entire carriage, or worn out or insufficient quality bearings.

What tools will be needed?

To remove a bicycle cassette yourself, it is imperative to have the following list of tools and accessories in your home workshop or in the set of portable spare parts and accessories:

Determining Cassette/Freewheel Type & Tool

  • a bicycle whip in the form of a segment of a bicycle chain attached to a lever handle;
  • 12-slot end puller (or one-piece key-puller) of the cassette retaining ring;
  • if there is only one end puller, then you also need a 24mm or 27mm spanner (open-end, box), depending on the size of the hex nut on the spline puller.

The procedure for removing the cassette of the rear sprockets of the bicycle

How do I remove the stars from the rear wheel? By and large, for this purpose, simply unscrew the cassette retaining ring, which holds together all the parts of the mechanism. This locking ring has a classic right-hand thread, you can recognize it by the Lock inscription on its surface.

But the trick is that to unscrew this locking ring, you must have a special device (special key). 12 spline puller. In this case, it is necessary to simultaneously keep the cassette sprockets from turning on the bearing. A special clever device is best suited for this purpose. a bicycle whip.

  • Perform operations to remove the rear bicycle wheel: install the bicycle on the handlebar and saddle, wheels up; unscrew the tightening nuts on the wheel axle (or loosen the eccentric fasteners); remove the chain from the cassette sprockets; remove the wheel from the dropouts, put it on a horizontal platform with the cassette up.
  • Throw a piece of the bicycle whip chain over the large star of the cassette so that the whip handle forms a lever that is easy to grip, applying force to the cassette clockwise.
  • Insert the puller into the slots of the cassette retaining ring.
  • Grip the hex of the stripper (24mm or 27mm) with a wrench.
  • Applying opposite forces on the handle of the wrench and on the handle of the whip, it is necessary to turn the retaining ring along the thread. This will most likely require considerable effort, as the retaining ring is usually dirty, stuck, and simply tight. Since significant efforts are applied when unscrewing the retaining ring, the use of various handicraft devices and non-specialized universal tools (screwdrivers, pliers, chisels, etc.) for this purpose should be avoided.
  • Unscrew the retaining ring completely, then pull up the cassette and remove it from the splines of the drum (ratchet) of the wheel hub. If the cassette is assembled on a spider, it will pull together as a single unit. If the cassette is assembled on pins, without a spider, then most likely each sprocket and spacer washer will be removed separately.
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Replacing the cassette on a bicycle

Experienced cyclists are well aware that a set of rear sprockets of an open multi-speed (sports) bike transmission, the so-called cassette, is actually a consumable unit. Indeed, with intensive high-speed skiing, the teeth of the cassette sprockets wear out quite quickly, and approximately every 1000. 2000 km of run there is a need to replace it with a new one.

Then how do you replace the cassette on your bike? The first and best option for replacing the cassette on a bike is to take your bike to a specialized bike workshop, where this operation will be performed as professionally as possible. But, unfortunately, a good professional bicycle service in Ukraine is available only to residents of regional centers, at most, large cities. Also, many avid cyclists and their teams practice long out-of-town rides, movements, during which there are frequent serious malfunctions of bicycles, incl. and breakage of the bike transmission cassette. Therefore, any decent cycling enthusiast simply needs to have the knowledge and skills how to remove the stars from the rear wheel on their own.

Replacing the bike ratchet

It happens that some older sports bikes still have a previous generation rear sprocket assembly called a ratchet. The multi-star ratchet differs from the more modern cassette in that it is screwed (right-hand thread) onto the wheel hub as a whole, with its entire body. Therefore, when dismantling the ratchet, there is no need to keep its sprocket from turning. It is enough to hold the wheel rim with a hand or other fixation, which is incomparably easier.

A special spline puller is also required to remove the multi-star ratchet from the rear wheel. It is similar but not compatible with the cassette remover. The extractor key must be inserted into the corresponding slots on the ratchet cover, and grab the hexagon with a wrench. Applying a force on the wrench counterclockwise, and holding the wheel rim with the other hand from turning, it is necessary to turn the ratchet body along the thread. As with the cassette, this can be tricky and will likely require quite a lot of effort.

Again, the question arises, how to remove the ratchet without a key (puller)? Should again disappoint enthusiasts of a non-standard approach that this technique will most likely fail. In the name of keeping your bike’s drivetrain intact, we strongly recommend purchasing and carrying a dedicated ratchet spline puller. In this case, the operation to dismantle and reassemble it will have a much better chance of success.

What types are cassettes divided into

It is very interesting to know how the stars are fastened on the drum and to each other. The modern bike cassette is available in several versions. Each of them is good in its own way. Meet:

  • spacer,
  • spiders,
  • solid milled,
  • blocky.

Spacer cassettes are sprockets fastened with separate splines to the drum. For separation, plastic spacers are inserted between them. Parts have a strictly specified thickness so that the distances in the cassette between its elements are kept constant. The advantage of such a system is that they can be disassembled to zero. The disadvantage, however, for aluminum drums is the high torsional load, because from each star the force is transferred to the drum. On stronger steel counterparts, this problem is not observed. In a spider-type connection, all the stars are put on a single spline. Legs are made in the form of ladders for each asterisk. Power loads are reduced, so this type of cassette should be chosen for aluminum drums. Also, compared to spacers, these systems are lighter.

On a spider, you can also change only one asterisk.

On solid milled cassettes, the entire unit is made as one piece. It is fixed on the lower star, which is the slot for the drum. Among the analogues, this is the most expensive option:

  • the simplest device due to the absence of additional connections;
  • ease;
  • high strength;
  • durability.

Solid Milled Transmission Cell

What about the disadvantages? Firstly, the price will pay off only for an expensive mountain bike. And secondly, the design is very much like a ratchet. And although durability and strength were declared, no one canceled partial wear. And it is impossible to change one or two stars.

The blocky model is represented by several spiders with two or three stars on each. Small stars are inserted into the spline of the drum by themselves. Since they are more likely to wear out with the bike, they can be changed separately altogether. Other components on the blocks change immediately in pairs.

Disassembled Shimano Block Cassette

Dismantling the ratchet for service

Sometimes they ask me: Do I need to service the ratchet?

Honestly, I don’t see any point in this, since, most likely, your stars will wear out faster than the lubricant inside the ratchet disappears, plus there are a lot of balls in it that treacherously scatter in different directions. I change the ratchet on my bike once a year, and I have about 3-5 thousand rides. During this time, I do not lubricate the inner balls even once.

The ratchet will most likely only need to be serviced if it is rare or has been exposed to a lot of water.

If you have a ratchet, then you can see two holes on it. If there are no such holes, then this is most likely a cassette. In the photo, I took a screw and inserted it into one of these holes, these holes are needed to unscrew the cover and get to the bearings. The thread of this cover is reverse, that is, to unscrew it, you need to unscrew it clockwise. I unscrewed the cover with a screw and hammer. Small blows with a hammer. and the cover is unscrewed, immediately under it you will see the bearings. These are how small they are:

But that’s not all of the bearings. When you start to lift the block of sprockets (the cover that we unscrewed kept them in place), the lower bearings of the ratchet will crumble, so prepare a reservoir (rag) in advance so that the balls do not scatter on the floor.

After removing the stars, you will be left with the second ratchet piece on the wheel hub. How it looks can be seen in the photo above, where I wrote about unscrewing the ratchet.

To actually service the ratchet, you will need to clean the bearings and the tracks on which they run, and apply new grease (I used lithol 24).

Difference between cassette and ratchet

What is the difference between a cassette and a ratchet on a bicycle? Many people confuse a ratchet with a bicycle cassette. If you study these parts correctly, then they cannot replace each other. It is very difficult to find a ratchet at this day. Unless you take it off your old bike. On newer and faster bikes, only the cassette can be considered. It is a part that has been improved.

The disadvantage of the ratchet is that it is not suitable for the axes of a hollow plane whose diameter is 15 millimeters. If we consider the entire mechanism, then the filling of the ratchet consists of dogs. The mechanism of these ratchet parts, on which the outer sleeve is installed (there are sprockets). The nut plays a special role here. This part is the surface for the bearing and also holds all 2 parts. Bearings are installed inside, which consist of identical metal balls.

The inner bushing. a ratchet particle. is installed on the thread of the wheel, which is located at the back. To remove this part, you must select a puller by size.

If you climb a mountain, then there is a large load on the chain and rear wheel. It is with this power that the internal filling of the ratchet must be tightened. Further, by this mechanism, it is tightened along the thread into the wheel hub itself.

How To Change Your Cassette | Road Bike Maintenance

Under no circumstances should the puller be replaced with other tools. They are also not suitable for cassettes. The reason for this is the incompatibility of the splines. A ratchet or cassette on a bicycle most often breaks under heavy loads. Cassette and ratchet. no difference in parsing.

What is the difference between a ratchet and a cassette

Ratchet is a ratchet mechanism with a threaded or slotted mounting on the bushing. The ratchet is outside and the sprockets are completely installed. This means that the ratchet is put on once. when, say, small sprockets are worn out, it will not work to replace only the worn part. everything changes at once.

This type of knot was widespread in the last century, and now it can be found on a budget high-speed bike. Some of the disadvantages of the ratchet include:

  • a small number of stars. from 5 to 7 speeds;
  • low running resource;
  • for more hardy products, the cost will be many times higher.

Although, of course, repair, or rather, non-maintainability, is the main drawback. Most ratchets are threaded. An unpleasant feature of this mount is jamming. It looks like this: after a certain mileage, it will twist on the bushing so that it will be problematic to disassemble it later.

Ratchets and cassettes differ in mounting and pullers

Now about the cassettes. In fact, this is the same ratchet, only the ratchet is hidden inside the drum. It is installed only on splines, which is why it is sometimes problematic to switch from the ratchet (if that rare spline copy was not standing). In comparison with its counterparts, the cassette drum mechanism has a number of advantages:

  • more stars. from 9 to 11 on modern models;
  • the system weighs less, which means the bike as a whole, too;
  • rolling resistance is noticeably less than that of a ratchet;
  • the cassette is easier to remove;
  • more mileage;
  • you can change the asterisks individually.
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The last plus, of course, is the most significant, and we emphasize it once again: changing the system completely or only one or two stars is a huge difference! Well, there is only one drawback. the initial cost is higher. However, this again negates the very advantage. the ability to repair, and not buy a new one. Should you opt for a cassette tape? Definitely yes!


Bicycle cassettes have several varieties, which are based on a different way of connecting the stars to each other and on the drum:

  • Spacer. It consists of stars, between which there are plastic spacers (spacers) with a set thickness, to maintain the same distance. And where each star is attached by separate slots to the drum. In such a device, the load when cycling is transferred directly to the drum, which is considered a disadvantage;
  • On a spider. It has a common connection in the form of a spider, where on the foot in the form of a ladder there is a corresponding mount for a star of the required diameter. The spider is hollow and usually made of aluminum. Therefore, such a device gains weight and is placed on drums made of aluminum. Since in places of increased load, soft aluminum should not come into contact with stronger steel;
  • Blocky. This variety stands out for its design, in which there are spiders on which medium and large stars are worn. Smaller ones are installed separately on the drum slot, as they can quickly become unusable and it was possible to replace each one;
  • Solid milled. They are made as a solid block, where the lower sprocket acts as a slot for the drum. The design is durable, lightweight, does not have additional fasteners. But with all the advantages, there is also a significant drawback. compared to the rest of the cassettes, it has the highest cost.

How to remove the rear ratchet?

Before removing the rear ratchet, the rear wheel must be removed from the frame. To do this, raise it, shift the rear derailleur to the last speed (remember that after completing the replacement procedure, you will need to check and correctly adjust the front derailleur), and then unscrew the eccentric or nuts (depending on the design of the hub). Next, carefully pull the wheel out of the frame, which should also be matched to your height.

The next step is to remove the axle from the wheel hub. Take two adjustable wrenches. with one hold the nut in a fixed position, the other. unscrew the other nut.

Advice! Be sure to place the whip chain on the largest star. Turn the puller with one hand, hold the whip with the other hand, preventing the ratchet from turning with the adjustable wrench.

Practice shows that in most cases the bicycle owner is faced with a problem when the thrust nut has become attached to the ratchet body. To fix this problem, you need to use WD-40 spray. Spray the nut and let the wheel sit for five minutes. The liquid will corrode rust and dirt inside, after which you can safely remove the part from the sleeve.

As you can see, it is quite easy to remove this part. But before you disassemble the bike ratchet, we recommend that you get a special tool. Without it, given the design of the fasteners, it is almost impossible to dismantle the ratchet. After successful removal, you can proceed with further disassembly of the component, proceed with routine maintenance or replacement.


Such vehicle options are less practical and less efficient to use, because they are equipped with fewer gears, and are also not efficient in the process and are unreliable. During the occurrence of any unforeseen situation (hitting a hard surface or a pothole), the rear wheel hub can be broken. If the bike is equipped with cassettes instead of ratchets, then such situations occur less often. The cassette is easier to maintain and operate than a ratchet. The worn-out part of the first version will allow not changing the whole set of stars, but only identifying a single spoiled one. In the version with a ratchet, it is impossible to replace a separate star, since all the parts are tightly connected to each other.

As for the advantages of a ratchet, these are:

  • more affordable cost than cassettes;
  • ease of installation;
  • availability.

The design of both systems has nothing in common, that is, if there is a desire to change your old bicycle ratchet, and the modern cassette, then you will not be able to do this. To carry out the replacement, you will have to completely change the rear wheel hub. A bicycle with cassettes is more practical to use, since it has the maximum number of gears at its disposal, which cannot be said about a ratchet. The number of teeth on the smallest cassettes is about 11 or 12 pieces, on the ratchet. 14.

How to remove a cassette

Remove the bicycle wheel, then install the puller so that its splines fully enter the grooves of the retaining ring.

Place the whip on the sprocket so that the links of its chain sit tightly on its teeth. The whip handle should be to the right of the cassette and the chain on top.

Put the adjustable wrench on the cassette remover and turn it counterclockwise, while you need to hold the handle of the whip without letting the stars spin.

If the chain slips off, it is possible that the cassette stars are badly worn, or the whip is faulty. In this case, try to put it on a big star.

Unscrew the retaining ring to the end, then remove and unfold the stars and spacers. Lay out everything in order so that nothing is confused during assembly.

The cassette is removed, now it can be cleaned or changed.

With 7 stars

To dismantle, you must make sure in advance that there is a retaining ring and familiarize yourself with the technology of clamping all the sprockets together. In budget transmission models, the sprockets are not bolted, but rigidly connected with rivets. Unmaintained specimens can be thrown away immediately if something happens to their teeth.

Why might you need

Dismantling the old cassette is necessary for full maintenance. In this case, almost the entire bike is subject to disassembly. If maintenance was carried out recently, removal will be required for the following reasons:

Bicycle Repair: How to Remove Cassette

So you’ve decided to remove the cassette. There can be a lot of reasons for removing the cassette; it is necessary for replacement, for service or for cleaning. Or maybe you want to disassemble the bushing and check how the drum, pawls and bearings are doing. In any case, for all these operations you will have to remove the cassette and the first thing you need is to acquire a suitable tool.

How to remove the bike cassette

First of all, you need to prepare the necessary tool:

  • cassette retaining ring remover;
  • whip. a special key to which a bicycle chain is attached (fragment);
  • adjustable wrench.

You can, of course, do without the specified specific tool. over, there are 2 such methods and both will work 100%:

Be sure to prepare an area with a flat surface, which should be within arm’s reach of the bike. this is how you can save and not lose all the parts of the bike cassette.

Step-by-step instructions for removing the cassette:

  • The bicycle wheel is removed, a special puller is installed. You need to pay attention to the correct installation of this tool: its slots must completely enter the grooves of the retaining ring.
  • A whip is taken in your hands, put on the sprocket in such a way that the fragment of the bicycle chain on the key is on the teeth of the sprocket. Please note that the whip handle should be to the right of the cassette, a fragment of the tool chain. at the top.
  • An adjustable wrench is placed on the cassette remover and rotated counterclockwise. Simultaneously with this movement, it is necessary to firmly hold the whip key in the fixed position. thus, the movement / scrolling of the sprocket is blocked. Note:in some cases, the chain may jump off during this process, which means a strong wear of the cassette sprockets or a broken key whip. Experts recommend putting a whip on a large sprocket. you can get the desired fixation effect.
  • The retaining ring is completely unscrewed, the cassette is removed.

Be sure to make sure that the removed cassette, as well as the sprockets and all fasteners, are in the removable form exactly in the order in which they were in the original version.

After removing the cassette, you can start cleaning and lubricating it. these procedures are among the mandatory for regular maintenance of a two-wheeled vehicle.

With 6 stars

The six-speed set is, in the vast majority of cases, ratchets. To complete this procedure, you must use a 15mm wrench to get rid of the rear wheel and a 17mm wrench to unscrew the axle nuts. Further, to remove the rear set of sprockets from the bike, you need to follow the instructions:

  • Removing the bearing cone.
  • Removing the bearing from the opposite side of the sleeve.
  • Removing the axle with bearing and cone. If the old parts of the hub are out of order, the bike owner has an excellent reason to install a new repair kit.
  • Slotted cassette puller.
  • Installing the whip on the lightest (largest) star.
  • Rotating a star in a clockwise direction.

The last step is to rotate the puller counterclockwise using a head or an adjustable wrench.


The puller itself may look different. It can be either a separate head or a whole wrench, with or without a pin for centering (we recommend taking without a pin, since such a puller is compatible with a large number of bushings). The essence is simple everywhere, there are grooves on the cassette lock nut, and there are slots on the puller that fit these grooves. By the way, if you have Shimano Center Lock type brake rotors, then this puller will work with them too. It looks something like this:

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You will need such a wrench to secure the cassette and unscrew the locking nut. Without it, the cassette will simply scroll and you will not succeed. It looks like this:

If you do not have the key, but there is an old, unused chain, but you can use it. We take the chain, make a couple of turns around any open-end wrench or suitable stick and VOIL, your key is ready.

Signs and causes of rear chainring problems

To begin with, let’s take a closer look at the ratchet mechanism of a multi-speed bike in more detail.

The pawl engages the rear wheel ratchet. The ratchet mechanism itself crackles slightly at the same time. This is the normal operation of the device. Otherwise, when there is no sound, it pulls the chain forward when driving idle.

The lack of engagement of the dog is usually associated with the malfunctioning of its spring, which pushes the dog. The following factors can serve as the reasons for the malfunction:

  • absence or high density of lubricant in the mechanism;
  • breakage of the dog itself;
  • the spring is worn out;
  • a large amount of dirt;
  • part of the dog is inside the mechanism.

The chipped dog itself can still be repaired separately, but with its seat the situation is much more complicated. It should be noted that this type of fastening of transmission stars is inferior to a cassette in terms of reliability, since an axle breaking in half is far from uncommon. You will have to completely remove the ratchet and install a new one.

How to remove and replace a ratchet on a bicycle

The ratchet mechanism is widely used on sprocket speed systems and includes rear sprockets, drum, ring and bearings. Integrated freewheel prevents the sprockets from spinning backwards, thus maintaining the direction of movement of both the sprockets and the chain.

A feature of the ratchet on a bicycle for high-speed cycling is its complete replacement in case of critical wear of the stars. The system is screwed onto the thread of the rear wheel hub, which is fundamentally different from the cassette. In addition, one worn sprocket can be replaced on cassettes, which cannot be done on a ratchet.

The mechanism is operated under dynamic conditions, which is why it will sooner or later become unusable. We will talk further about the signs of failure and how to remove and change the ratchet yourself.

Removing the ratchet from the bike

It is not always possible to correctly see the malfunction when the ratchet mechanism on the bike itself is not always possible, so the best solution would be to disassemble it.

It will not be possible to remove the ratchet mechanism just like that, so we need a special tool. a puller. With this simple device, the ratchet will quickly be removed from its rightful place.

Before proceeding with the repair of the ratchet, it is necessary to correctly determine in which direction to unscrew the nut. It is not necessary to lean heavily to one side or the other, otherwise the thread of the sleeve can be rolled up. If the thread is right-handed, screw it up counterclockwise, and put it on clockwise.

Behind the nut is a row of balls, which can themselves fall out of the mechanism. They must be carefully removed, cleaned of dirt and set aside. The disassembled device is cleaned of excess grease and foreign particles with gasoline or thinner.

The same goes for transmission stars. If the stars of the entire system are not worn, and the problem is in the threaded ring, it should be pulled out of the drum and replaced. Along the way, the dog and the spring are changing.

After the bulkhead, the ratchet is put back on the rear wheel hub. To do this, you need to carefully place the bearing balls in their seats, firmly install the mechanism and tighten with a wrench on the bushing. If the ratchet does not work and there is an overshoot of the chain at idle, most likely a new part is needed.

  • Remove the old mechanism. This will not work without a puller, do not forget a special key.
  • Inspect the rear hub axle.
  • Mount the new part on the bushing.

It is recommended to hang a new chain together with the ratchet so that there is no imbalance between the new sprockets and the worn chain. It is also useless to put the part on the damaged axle of the bushing itself.

If the output of the transmission mechanism is too high, it will be rational to supply a new spare part. In most cases, the problem of malfunctioning ratchets is solved by a simple bulkhead and cleaning from dirt. Finally, do not forget to lubricate the newly assembled parts.

Bicycle pedal knocking

A bicycle, like a beloved child, requires care and attention. To find out if your bike is healthy or sick, it is enough to listen to it while driving. Among the many sounds that can be considered absolutely normal (seat creaking, spokes chirping, quiet rustling of tires or the sound of a ratchet at idle speed), there are some that should immediately alert the owner. These, without a doubt, include the incessant, clearly distinguishable creak of mechanical components or the knock on the pedals of the bicycle. Even a novice rider should know what to do when such problems are encountered.

If the pedals squeak

While riding, the pedal carriages can make a loud squeak when they come into contact with the sole of the shoe. Dry friction is the cause of the characteristic squeak in most cases. It can be triggered by the following reasons:

  • the thread in the connection with the connecting rod is too tight;
  • the fasteners are slightly loosened, which leads to difficult movement of the parts of the platform relative to each other;
  • grease is squeezed out of the bearings;
  • particles of dirt, dust, sand and other things get into the gap;
  • the bearing race collapses and is partially jammed.

Before starting the diagnosis, you should sit on the bike, press the right pedal, then the left pedal and rotate them. If a characteristic crunch or knock is heard from one side, the problem must be looked for in the pedal bearing.

As a rule, you can identify the problem by disassembling and reassembling the pedal for details several times. This will allow the threads to be ready for use. You should also check the fasteners and fix them as tightly as possible, if necessary. At the same time, you need to clean the pedal by removing drops of grease, small debris and sand. If these measures do not work, it remains to look for the cause inside the pedal mechanism.

Extraneous sounds

The sounds emitted while cycling can vary in quality. They can be conditionally divided into:

  • clicks;
  • grinding;
  • whistling;
  • knock.

Clicks are usually inevitable if you are driving on muddy roads and sandy trails. Grains of sand get into the clamping joints and begin to make themselves felt. Very rarely, but it also happens that cracks in the metal lead to clicks. To lubricate problem areas, it is best to use grease sticky compounds.

The knocking and grinding sound heard when the pedal is firmly pressed indicate that the part is running dry, there is no lubricant at all. The balls by this time become cubes or other geometric bodies. To check if this is so, you need to listen to the pedals at idle: you will hear a slight rustle of metal.

The whistle of the pedals can be like a series of short clicks, or more like the creak of foam on a glass surface. Any whistle signals that there is no lubricant in the rubbing unit. In rare cases, the cause of the sound can be an internal breakdown of the material itself, plastic or metal.

Sometimes a weak whistle occurs due to dust particles on the bushings. With this diagnosis, a good result will be obtained by using liquid graphite lubricant.

How to fix the situation

To overcome dry friction, due to which the bearings wear out and the pedal knocks, it is enough to use a high-quality grease. However, she will not be able to completely solve the problem. It is best to install a new part and not guess which part is damaged. For example, if a clip collapses, seat wear is almost always to blame. In this case, restoration may turn out to be more expensive than buying a new pedal, so it is easier to immediately purchase a part with a large resource.

If the wear is small, the repair will be cheaper: you just need to replace the bearing and slightly tighten the fasteners. The balls should be refreshed even when there is no visible major damage. Also, the pedal mechanism must be thoroughly cleaned from the inside: dust, dirt, remnants of the old grease are best removed not only from the bearings themselves (if the bicycle’s pedals are loose), but also from the raceway, as well as nuts. If you tightened the fasteners, and they loosen again, it makes sense to install spring washers or locknuts for reliability.

In order to prevent surface wear, the lubricant should be changed after each prolonged sanding. The sand turns into an abrasive, which leads to a violation of the integrity of the surfaces. The creak in this case is also accompanied by a characteristic crunch.

With a sparing attitude to the bike and timely care for it, no trouble should happen. If the parts have become completely unusable, do not delay their replacement. Ride quality and personal safety are much more expensive.