Which side to put the chain on the bike

How to glue a bike camera

As it turned out, many of those who own a bicycle have no idea how to handle tires and tubes and have never seen the process of repairing even the most common puncture. We will fill this gap in education. So, we fix the punctured wheel or change the tire. The narrative implies a bike of the MTB type, for a road bike, in principle, everything is the same, with the exception of minor nuances.

Release the brakes on the wheel you are removing.

The V-BRAKE brake pads are very close to the wheel rim. Therefore, in order to service the brakes, you must first unfasten the brake levers and spread them apart. You also have to release the brakes when removing the wheels. The procedures for unbuttoning and fastening do not differ in complexity and are performed within a few seconds, but for many novice cyclists, as well as for those who rode only domestic bicycles, this operation is not obvious, so I ask experienced ones not to laugh.

The release mechanism consists of a cable tip and a clamp mounted on one of the brake levers. First, a rubber corrugated cable sheath. which is located between the brake levers, move to the side of the cable fastening screw and expose the entire cable tip.

Then, by hand, we move the brake levers towards each other, removing the tip of the cable from the clamp.

We lower the clamp down and spread the brake levers to the sides. Done.

Now you can change pads, remove wheels.

The most important thing in this operation is not to forget to return everything to its place later, and not to leave with the brakes unbuttoned.

Turn the bike upside down. You can do everything in a supine position, but it’s more convenient. Great is usually quite stable on the handlebars and saddle. Be sure to remove your bike bottle before rolling over to prevent it from leaking, and be careful not to damage the shifters and brake levers on the handlebars and the saddle itself if it comes in the field.

We deflate the tire. We press on the spool in the valve and wait until most of the air comes out. After that, you can unscrew the spool completely and deflate the wheel completely. I do not advise unscrewing the spool without first lowering it. it can shoot quite hard. The auto-type spool is unscrewed by the antennae on the cap. After the camera is deflated. screw it back in order not to get lost or get dirty.

which, side, chain, bike

Why is it necessary to release the air right now? If the rubber is “angry” and wide. in the inflated state the wheel will not come out of the fork, the tire will cling to the brake levers. If there are slicks, you don’t have to let them down, but we are changing the tire. you still have to let the air out, and if there is a hole in the wheel, then this procedure has already been performed automatically.

We remove the wheel. Remember or mark with a marker on the sidewall how the wheel stood, if it is in front and there are no other landmarks (like a magnet for a bicycle computer). On wheels with an eccentric. the eccentric is on the left side, and it is impossible to put the rear wheel on the wrong side.

Let’s get down to the process itself. If the wheel is rear, we put it with the stars up. If the wheel rim is single-walled, the tires are usually easy to remove and put on with bare hands with little or no effort, but if the rims are double, you will most likely need mounting blades (assemblies). We are considering a difficult case. double rims. For single. the same, only you can pick up the tire with your finger.
If the wheel has been running for a long time, we push the sides of the tire inward, separating it from the rim.

The disassembly procedure begins with the part of the wheel opposite to the valve. We drive the mounting from above vertically down between the tire and the rim. Having retreated about 10-15 cm, we drive the second one next to it. Not too deep, just so the hook of the bar can catch on the bead of the tire. Here, the main subtlety is to make sure that the camera does not get between the mounting and the tire / rim, otherwise it can be broken through. Everything must be done carefully and accurately, without applying bad efforts. Better to jump off a couple of times than a hole in the camera.

Click on the first mounting (1), turn it down 90 degrees (it becomes perpendicular to the plane of the wheel), lifting the tire bead outside the rim. Holding it in this position, click on the second (2), then press both down simultaneously. As a result, part of the 15-20 cm side has already been removed. Move (a) the first assembly along the rim by 2/3 of the free area (1 “), take out the second one, retreat 10-15 cm from the edge of the already removed part (b) and repeat the procedure” insert \ press \ pull off “(2”, with ). We get approximately what is in the picture. Usually after that, further removal of the bead is easily done by hand.

If the rim is very shallow and the tire is stiff, the specified distances will have to be reduced and the number of de-beading iterations will increase. The principle remains the same.
To repair the camera, it is enough to disassemble only one side without removing the tire from the wheel completely.

Sticking. Let the air out of the chamber completely. Dry the place of gluing and clean it with sandpaper until a flat matte surface is obtained. Do not touch! Apply a thin, even layer of glue to the camera on an area larger than the patch area by about half a centimeter on each side, and let it dry completely (10-15 minutes). While it dries, we carefully examine and probe the inside of the tire, in search of an object that pierced the camera for us. Otherwise, after assembly, we risk getting a new hole. If we observe a broken line, cracks, etc. it is better to change such a tire. If the hole is made by a crawled cord, you need to pull / break off this wire and put a patch on this place from the inside of the tire. And change it as soon as possible in the future.
When the glue is dry, cut off one patch, remove the protective foil from the colored side of the patch, carefully apply the patch and press and iron it tightly, starting from the center. After that, the patch can (and should) be tapped evenly with a hammer, placing something even and smooth under the camera. In field conditions, you can step on it. Remove the transparent protective film from the patch. Everything, the camera can be mounted in place.

Putting it all back. We start with the valve of the chamber. we push this part of the chamber into the tire and insert the valve into the rim. Next, we move evenly in both directions, placing the camera inside the tire. In the process, you need to make sure that the camera is not skewed, the valve should come out of the rim at a right angle.

We also start putting on the tire bead from the valve and evenly in both directions, so that there are less distortions. We fill the last section of the board with assemblies, if the strength of the hands is not enough. The same as when disassembling, only in the opposite direction. Push in the mounting bars from below, hook the rim with a hook, raise the mounting bar vertically. the board slides along it into the rim. At this stage, you also need to be careful so as not to damage the camera with the assemblies, pinching it between the tire or rim and the assembly.

If everything goes very tight (there are such combinations of bad rims and bad rubber), the board can be soaped. No oil at all, it’s death for rubber! Gradually move forward and put the tire on the rim completely.

If we change the tire to another or remove it from the rim, we need to determine which side to put it on. Most tires are labeled “Drive” with an arrow that indicates the normal direction of rotation of the wheel. If there is no such inscription, then the tire is either absolutely symmetrical and it does not matter how to install it, or the manufacturer is lazy. In the latter case, you can try to determine the direction of rotation from the tread pattern. As a rule, evil rubber has a “herringbone” type structure, that is, the track resembles something like this: “9. Put the wheel back on the bike. There is one nuance in installing the rear wheel, which is not described on this site. Articles there are designed for the fact that you have a normal bike with more or less normal bodywork.But there are also Shimano Tourney and frames without roosters.In this case, following the advice to fully lower the axles into the fork eyes will not work, the rear derailleur is attached through an adapter that reduces the length of the right rear eyelet In this case, lower the right side of the axle into the adapter until it stops, slightly tighten the nut, and by moving the left end of the axle center the wheel in the fork so that it runs parallel to the longitudinal plane of the bike, and not to the side. between the rim and the right and left stays of the rear fork. it should be the same if the rear wheel is correctly assembled and centered. When the wheel is positioned. finally tighten ha yki. If the wheel is attached with eccentrics, the procedure is a little more complicated, but the principle is the same. However, I have never seen eccentrics on the rear wheel of bicycles with this class of body kit.

FASTENING THE BRAKES. In this case, you need to check that the spout completely enters the bracket.

Features of manual and mechanized sharpening

Dull cutting edges of the saw chain appear:

  • a noticeable decrease in productivity;
  • ejection of small shavings;
  • the appearance of a characteristic smell of burnt wood.

To restore the cutting properties of the chains, several types of sharpening devices are used.

In the simplest version, it is a holder mounted on a rail complete with a set of special files, in the other. a sharpening machine with a power drive. Both technologies have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Low-performance and time-consuming manual chain sharpening helps to preserve its resource. The mechanized method provides good performance, but the lack of an individual approach to each cutting link of the chain negatively affects its durability.

Reasons for premature failure of saw chains

Accelerated elongation of the part occurs during the running-in phase and in the last quarter of the service life. During these time slots, the headset needs special attention and careful maintenance.

  • The reason for the rapid stretching of the saw chain can be the poor quality of the material of the budget model, the mismatch of the configuration of the crown and excessive wear of the drive sprocket, a malfunction or ineffective operation of the lubrication system.
  • The full operation of the chainsaw chain also largely depends on the condition of the tire and the drive sprocket, the quality of the chain oil and the performance of the lubrication system, the timely and competent sharpening of the edges of the cutting links.
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According to professional sawers, the operator’s style of work and the level of operational stress affect the durability of the headset. The chains of the budget group are more susceptible to stretching, the more expensive branded assortment has no comments on technical and operational properties.

Saw chain replacement and adjustment sequence

It is not technically difficult to change the chain of a household and professional chainsaw on your own. The key to the successful implementation of the adjustment work will be strict adherence to the recommendations of the attached instructions.

Due to the thermal expansion of the metal, the chain is installed on the chainsaw and the subsequent adjustment is made only on a cold tire.

  • In the classic solution, the technology provides for the inclusion of a lock against accidental engine start, unscrewing the threaded fasteners, dismantling the tire and cleaning the guide groove from sawdust.
  • Next, you should make sure that the dimensions of the shanks correspond to the width of the groove, determine which side to put the chain on the chainsaw, fix the tire and adjust the chain in the sequence indicated by the instructions.
  • Before putting the chain on the chainsaw, you should make sure that the direction of the chain on the chainsaw meets the stated requirements, and the chain tensioning mechanism has sufficient free play.

After adjusting the new chain, it is recommended to run the saw at medium speed for 2-3 minutes, then check the chain tension again. This moment can be combined with visual control of the lubrication system.

How to tension the chain on a chainsaw: installation and proper operation

Regardless of the class and purpose of the chainsaw, the cutting device includes a guide bar and a saw chain with a tensioner. The instructions contain information on how to properly tension the chain on the chainsaw in order to exclude additional loads on the engine and accelerated wear of the headset.

This element of the sawing mechanism is used in conditions of high variable loads, therefore, during operation, it requires constant monitoring. A characteristic feature of the used saw chains is an increase in size due to the formation of gaps in the joints of the links.

Advantages of making a chain set

The chain and the bar are included in the list of interchangeable equipment, so the sawyer, depending on the peculiarities of the work, can use several sets of different lengths and productivity. Average service life of wear-resistant branded tires allows the service life of three saw chains.

The cutting edges of the saw chain links need to be sharpened periodically. The indisputable advantages of using a set of several chains are uniform wear of the drive sprocket and good compatibility with the chains included in the additional set.

Negative consequences of incorrect chain adjustment

Checking the condition and tension of the chain is included in the mandatory list of preparatory work.

How much it is possible to put the chain correctly depends on:

  • the duration of its subsequent operation;
  • safety of cutting works of increased complexity;
  • resource of the engine and chainsaw as a whole.

A dragged headset dramatically reduces work performance, initiates excessive loads on the power unit and transmission. Tire overheating and excessive fuel consumption also occur.

A loose chain can fly off the bar or break. The formation of traumatic moments is partially or completely eliminated by emergency stop systems and catchers, which allow, with more or less success, to unravel the chainsaw chain and determine its suitability for subsequent operation.

Installing a part with damaged or deformed links can lead to uneven wear of the tire guide groove and other undesirable consequences.

Tensioners

The classic budget-class chainsaw chain tensioner is usually a threaded bolt with an adjusting component, standard or side-mounted. The chain tension is adjusted with the included wrench or screwdriver.

expensive models are equipped with easy-to-use devices that allow you to tension the chain with one movement of the lever or turn of the adjusting disc.

In the first case, the degree of tension is fixed with a locknut, in the second, the tire and the chain tensioner are locked in a predetermined position by installing the cover. In both versions, reliable fixation of the chain in a given position is guaranteed, the possibility of compensating for its extension with minimal loss of working time.

Methods for checking the degree of tension

To check the degree of tension, it is enough to pull the chain in the middle of the tire, the output of the link shanks is allowed no more than 2/3.

  • A properly adjusted chain should not stick when manually moving along the bar.
  • Also, squeak and other extraneous noises in the area of ​​the leading sprocket are excluded.
  • After running the chain, it is necessary to check the tightness of the threaded fasteners of the bar and the protective cover.

After prolonged operation, the chain is not tensioned due to the lack of adjusting travel of the tensioning mechanism. The construction of the chain allows its length to be reduced by removing several links. On the other hand, such savings translate into a loss of smoothness of the chain and forced wear of the groove of the tire and the crown of the drive sprocket.

How to properly shift gears on a bike?

Gear shifting is one of the main mechanical functions of your bike. Choosing the right gear for a particular section of the road will not only increase your efficiency, but also make the trip more comfortable and save energy on long routes.

The recommendations below are not relevant for planetary gearshift systems that can also be shifted on the spot.

There are a few simple rules that we recommend you follow:

1) Shift gears only while driving, while you pedal and drive the transmission.

2) When changing gear, the chain must not be too tight. In this case, transmission breakdowns up to the chain breakage are possible.

3) We do not recommend jumping over several gears at once. It all depends on the level of the switch itself and the general state of the transmission, but in any case, we advise beginners to shift gears consistently.

4) Try not to skew the chain if your bike has a front derailleur.

Below is a diagram to guide you when shifting gears if your bike has a front derailleur.

For the convenience of the cyclist, some rear derailleurs are marked with the correspondence of the position of the rear derailleur to the position of the chainring to avoid chain distortion.

A misaligned chain can adversely affect gear shifting and can lead to rapid wear on the bike’s drivetrain. In fact, if the bike has 3 stars in the front and 9 in the back, that means you can choose any of the 27 speeds. But it is not recommended to use all speeds in a row. Remember the phrase by the artist Charles Monroe Schultz: “Life is like a bicycle with ten gears. We all have programs that we don’t use. ” What’s more, in today’s bicycle industry, bigger doesn’t always mean better or faster.

There is a tendency among modern bicycle equipment manufacturers to provide a bike with a large gear range with a small number of sprockets. So, for example, a modern transmission with one chainring at the front and 12 at the rear completely covers the range with 3 stars at the front and 9 at the rear, not to mention the outdated groups with 6-8 stars on the rear wheel. As a rule, with fewer sprockets, the transmission is more convenient to operate, maintain and adjust, and also has less weight.

Remember one rule: there is NO perfect gear, switch! We often see people spend too much energy climbing a steep slope on a small rear sprocket, as if trying to break the cranks. Or the rapid flashing of the feet of cyclists riding downhill in too light gear. Your goal while riding should be to maintain rhythm (the speed at which your pedals make a full revolution) as much as possible. The cadence is called cadence. You need to monitor it and maintain it in a certain range. For professionals, it starts at 80 rpm. This is necessary not only in order to maintain the drivetrain, but also for the health of your own knees. We recommend switching frequently to improve efficiency while riding.

Chain adjustment on speed bikes

To save money, some craftsmen “cut” the chain, that is, cut it and reduce the number of links. Of course, this option is also possible, but it is important to understand that a stretched chain is a worn out mechanism and it will not last long.

For people who still remember Salyut bicycles, the suggestion “to choose a new chain for a bicycle” sounds somewhat wild. The answer is simple: in those bicycles, only one speed was provided, so the chain was constantly in a calm state and did not wear out as quickly as on modern bicycles.

How to put the chain on the bike correctly

Installing the bike chain. Determining the chain length.

On domestic road bicycles, chains are made split, one segment of such a chain has a special lock. On sports bicycles, it is impossible to make the chain detachable, because this lock interferes with gear shifting.

When buying a new chain, you need to find out which chains fit the system and cassette installed on your bike.
For 9-speed cassettes, use a 6.5mm chain like SHIMANO CN-7701 or CN-HG93.
For 6. 8 speed cassettes, use a 7.1mm chain like SHIMANO CN-HG50 or CN-IG51.

Chains are sold in two types. boxed and standard (almost like computer components in Retail and OEM supplies). The box usually contains a replaceable axle for connecting the chain segments. One end of this axle is sharpened for easy installation.

Why Is The Chain Always On The Right-Hand Side Of The Bike? | #AskGMBNTech

After the axle is pressed in, this pointed end must be broken off with pliers.

If the chain is not equipped with a special pointed axle (like many chains sold without a box), then the axle must be inserted into one of the segment plates.

Determining the chain length.
When installing a new chain, it is very important to determine the required length (i.e. the number of links). If the chain is too short, it will make it difficult to shift gears to large sprockets, and will increase the load on the chain (the latter is especially important for double suspensions).

If the chain is too long, the chain tensioner will not be able to compensate for its length and the chain on small sprockets will dangle. This is true for bicycles with shorter rear derailleurs.

The chain length may vary on different sport bikes. It depends on the geometry of the frame (length of the chain fork), on the dimensions of the sprockets of the system and the cassette. If a new chain is installed instead of an old, worn one, then the required number of links is simply determined (the same as on the old chain). But if sprockets of other diameters were installed on the bike, then the situation becomes more complicated.

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To determine the optimal chain length, you must install the chain on the largest front and rear sprockets.

We tighten the chain by pushing the rear derailleur forward as far as possible. If you add two chain links to this, you get the optimal chain length. For double suspensions, this must be done by first placing the rear shock absorber in such a position when the cassette is as far away from the system as possible.

There is another criterion for determining the optimal chain length.

Place the chain on the largest front sprocket and the smallest rear sprocket. We tighten the chain, moving the rear derailleur forward so that its frame looks vertically down (that is, the line connecting the centers of the tensioner rollers must be vertical). This will be the optimal chain length.

After the suitable chain length has been determined, the extra links must be removed.

Installing the chain.
Before installing the chain, set the front and rear derailleur to the positions corresponding to the smallest sprockets.

We put the chain on the bike. It is important to slide the chain onto the tensioner rollers correctly. The lower roller bypasses the chain on the left, and the upper one on the right. (see previous photo)

We combine the open links of the chain. If we use a replaceable axis, then we insert it with a pointed end into the holes of the segment.

We fill the chain in the squeeze, and fix it with a clamping screw (in the photo. on the left).
Important Note. Many puckers have two chain seats. That is, the chain can be inserted into the squeeze in two ways. The seat located closer to the fixing screw is intended for pressing out and pressing in the axle. This is where the chain must be tucked in for removal and installation. (As pictures show)

The other seat is only used to adjust the position of the axle inside the hub. If you try to press in the axle when the chain is tucked in this seat, you can damage the squeeze or the chain.

Press the axle into the chain by rotating the squeeze handle. We stop when the axle is almost completely immersed in the hole (compare with adjacent links).
We take out the chain from the squeeze.

If we use a replaceable axis, then break off the pointed end with pliers.

We check that the chain just connected in the only connected segment of the chain, it bends freely, without jamming. If this is not the case, then we check how far the ends of the axle protrude from different sides of the chain.
If necessary, the axle must be pushed in the desired direction with a squeeze. To do this, tuck the chain into another seat of the squeeze (the one that is closer to the handle of the squeeze). Then both ends of the axis will be visible and its position can be easily controlled visually.

After assembly, the chain should be slightly bent in the lateral direction to provide better mobility of the links. Done.

Fitting the bike chain

On domestic road bicycles, chains are made split, one segment of such a chain has a special lock. On sports bicycles, it is impossible to make the chain detachable, because this lock interferes with gear shifting.

When buying a new chain, you need to find out which chains fit the system and cassette installed on your bike.
For 9-speed cassettes, use a 6.5mm chain like SHIMANO CN-7701 or CN-HG93.
For 6. 8 speed cassettes, use a 7.1mm chain like SHIMANO CN-HG50 or CN-IG51.

Chains are sold in two types. boxed and standard (almost like computer components in Retail and OEM supplies). The box usually contains a replaceable axle for connecting the chain segments. One end of this axle is sharpened for easy installation.

After the axle is pressed in, this pointed end must be broken off with pliers.

If the chain is not equipped with a special pointed axle (like many chains sold without a box), then the axle must be inserted into one of the segment plates.

How to install a chain on a bike

Let’s start disassembling the bike chain. Everyone knows why you need a chain on a bicycle. Next, you need to put a chain on both sprockets of the bike. On regular road bikes, the chain is not that difficult to tighten. For some reason, then the chains served almost longer than the bicycle itself. The fact is that in such bicycles, the machine is responsible for the chain tension. In order to disconnect the bicycle chain, we installed a special lock on it, shown in Fig. 14.

An important element for the bike’s performance is the chain, the life of which depends on timely care. When working, it should not crack and creak. When adjusted correctly, the chain should have a slack of 10-12 mm. When pulled with your fingers, it should give in by 10-15 mm, and if this value is greater, then it must be pulled. Note that this is only relevant for bicycles or without derailleurs, or with planetary gears.

When the chain is too tight, it becomes very difficult to pedal on the bike, the parts of the chain drive wear out quickly. The amount of chain tension on a bike with a rear parallelogram derailleur is determined entirely by the force of the derailleur spring. But if the chain is too long, then this tensioner will not be able to compensate for its slack, and it will begin to hit the frame. This is especially true for bicycles with a short rear thrower.

This primarily applies to two-suspension bicycles. Very often, when installing a new chain on a high-speed bike, it is necessary to shorten its length, that is, remove several links. On double suspensions, it will be more correct to adjust the chain length by pressing the rear swingarm to the position when the front sprocket cassette is as far as possible from the rear ratchet.

The chain starts to slip when the tension is released due to its extreme tension. If this is not the first time you tighten the old chain, get ready to replace it soon. The bicycle chain is one of the most important parts of this mode of transport.

In addition, they are the driven link of the bicycle gearbox. At the same time, it is not difficult to guess that if the chain breaks off, the transport will not be able to go further. In the event of a collapse or breakage of the bicycle chain, with the best outcome, the driver will get off by not being able to continue to ride. But often with this there are more serious consequences. For example, if there is no special guard on the rear wheel, the chain can fall into the spokes, but here the outcome is unfavorable in all cases.

Another symptom that should alert the driver is if the chain began to slip. To begin with, the problem of sagging is most often encountered by owners of regular single-speed bicycles. The thing is that here the chain is not able to tension automatically, as in mountain or other similar types of bicycles. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, any chain has the ability to stretch, despite the fact that it is made of metal.

How to install a chain on a bike

On the simplest single gear bike, tensioning the chain is all it takes with one wrench, just loosen the two rear wheel nuts. Most often this is a key of either 17 or 15. First, the bike must be turned upside down, and then slightly loosen the two nuts on the rear wheel. If you encounter the problem of chain sagging on a mountain bike or any other that has several gears, then in such a situation it is changed.

Chain: choice and proper care

It is mounted at the back. It is rarely found on professional bicycles, more often on ordinary ones. To begin with, it is reasonable to simply understand whether it is necessary to engage in tensioning the chain on a bicycle or change it, since this step is important for adequate work great. If on a speed bike it becomes difficult to adjust the gearshift settings.

Loosely tense and tensely taut are equally problematic when driving, so it is important to stop in time to keep the chain at medium tension. In this case, your task ensure that the length of the chain is the same as it was originally. For a high-speed bike, if the first two methods of tightening the links did not give the desired result, then you can try two other methods. The first method works only for high-speed bicycles that have already traveled with a weakened spring, that is, with an old gear shifter.

How to put on a bicycle chain will be described below, but for now we will consider how to disassemble a bicycle chain to repair it. As a result, the chain has lengthened slightly and will fall off when cycling. In order to put on the bicycle chain after repair, you must first open it and thread it through the frame of the machine.

Installing the chain

Before installing the chain, set the front and rear derailleur to the positions corresponding to the smallest sprockets.

We put the chain on the bike. It is important to slide the chain onto the tensioner rollers correctly. The lower roller bypasses the chain to the left, and the upper one to the right.

We combine the open links of the chain. If we use a replaceable axis, then we insert it with a pointed end into the holes of the segment.

We fill the chain in the squeeze, and fix it with a clamping screw (in the photo. on the left).

Important Note. Many puckers have two chain seats. That is, the chain can be inserted into the squeeze in two ways. The seat located closer to the fixing screw is intended for pressing out and pressing in the axle. This is where the chain must be tucked in for removal and installation. (As pictures show)

The other seat is only used to adjust the position of the axle inside the hub. If you try to press in the axle when the chain is tucked in this seat, you can damage the squeeze or the chain.

Press the axle into the chain by rotating the squeeze handle. We stop when the axle is almost completely immersed in the hole (compare with adjacent links).

If we use a replaceable axis, then break off the pointed end with pliers.

We check that the chain just connected in the only connected segment of the chain, it bends freely, without jamming. If this is not the case, then we check how far the ends of the axle protrude from different sides of the chain.

If necessary, the axle must be pushed in the desired direction with a squeeze.

To do this, tuck the chain into another seat of the squeeze (the one that is closer to the handle of the squeeze). Then both ends of the axis will be visible and its position can be easily controlled visually.

After assembly, the chain should be slightly bent in the lateral direction to provide better mobility of the links. Done.

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How to remove and install a chain

After sports multi-speed bike transmissions became widespread, cyclists began to remove from their high-speed or mountain bike, disassemble, put on (put in place) a bicycle chain much more often. The reason for this is the reduced thickness programmed by the design and its constant skew, which quickly “eats up” even a high-quality bicycle chain. In addition, the old “diseases” of this bicycle assembly have not gone anywhere. because of its tendency to stretch, every now and then there is a need to reduce the chain on the bicycle, rivet it, replace the broken one with a new one, or simply remove and hang somewhere for long-term storage.

Maintainability of the bike chain

It seems to be not a complicated construction of the bicycle chain. But a novice cyclist, the need to remove and install it in place can lead to a stupor. How to properly disassemble (disconnect) a bicycle chain and then correctly put it on (install, put) on a bicycle?

Let’s say right away that the secret of removing and installing a bicycle chain lies in the rules for disconnecting and connecting it together. All other operations are simple and intuitive.

How & When To Change A Chain On Your Road Bike

In terms of maintainability, all bicycle chains are divided into:

  • collapsible, with a quick-detachable link. a lock, which can be disconnected without special devices, with a simple screwdriver in hand;
  • conditionally non-separable, for the disconnection of which you cannot do without a special device. chain squeezing.

Connector and connection of the bicycle chain with a quick-release lock

In order to remove the chain from the bike quickly, without using a squeeze, there must be a special link on it. the so-called lock. There are several designs of such locks, but the most common one is with a fixing extension (spring) bracket. To disassemble such a bicycle chain, you must:

  • find a quick-disconnect link on it;
  • using a manual screwdriver, unbend the mustache of the spring fixing bracket, disengage them from the grooves on the pins of the collapsible link;
  • in theory. everything, you can separate the collapsible link, and remove the bike chain from the bike.

To assemble such a chain, you need to do the operations in the reverse order:

  • put the thread of the bike chain on the stars of the bike transmission;
  • connect the collapsible link together;
  • use a screwdriver to bring the spring fixing bracket into engagement with the grooves on the pins of the link.

This quick-release lock is best used to quickly remove and put on (hang) a thin and light bicycle chain on a multi-speed transmission of a sports mountain bike (MTB) or on a high-speed bike (highway or hybrid). On road, touring bicycles or city bikes, the bike chain is much thicker and more reliable, it is repaired much less often, therefore the quick-detachable link will only weaken it.

Dismantling and assembling the bike chain using a squeeze

If you have a special chain squeeze in your hands, then there is no longer a difference on which link to make its connector. Chain disassembly procedure:

  • an arbitrary link should be inserted into the crimp in such a way that one of the pins (axle, rivet) is exactly on the same axis with its push and support rods;
  • alternately twisting the push rod and releasing the supporting one, gradually press out the pin (rivet), until it completely disengages from the link elements, so that it can be disconnected;
  • after that, unscrew the squeeze push rod (do not touch the supporting rod), disengage it with the link, and remove the squeeze;
  • the chain can be disconnected and removed from the bike.

The order of assembling the chain using a squeeze is reversed:

  • put the thread of the bike chain on the stars of the bike transmission;
  • assemble the disassembled link, by lightly tapping on the pin (with a hammer, pliers, wrench. anything that is at hand), ensure that the pin goes into its seat a little and begins to hold the link together;
  • put the link to be assembled into the chain squeeze so that the pin to be installed is on the same axis with its rods;
  • adjust the position of the rods so that they rest against the pin to be installed on both sides;
  • twisting the push rod and releasing the supporting rods, gradually press the pin into its seat;
  • remove chain squeeze.

In fact, even the presence of a quick-release lock does not free the bike chain from using a squeeze. You will need it when you have to remove one of its links. This simple operation will be required to reduce the overall length of the excessively stretched chain. To do this, you just need to press out two pins in a row with the help of a squeeze, and then put one of them (press in) into place.

Removing the chain without a lock using a chain release

Here, everything is not as simple as in the previous case, although the same is not very difficult.

In this case, a special tool called chain squeezing (cycling) helps. They are available as a standalone or in the form of a bicycle multitool, which is much more convenient when traveling or at home.

Some chains are removed by hand altogether. How this is done is shown in this video.

Lock and solid chain

The locking chain is equipped with a special clamping device. It is not difficult to unhook and put on it. you just need to disconnect the lock. To find it, we carefully examine the chain on both sides and find a detachable link. In principle, it will not be difficult to find it on a clean chain: a tick is put on top, which fixes the link and does not allow it to move apart. Also, the manufacturer’s inscription is usually embossed on the key link. If you cannot find the lock for a long time, then either the chain is dirty, or it is lockless, or solid.

A bicycle chain without a lock simply cannot be disconnected: all the links on it look the same, however, and are hooked to each other too. This is very inconvenient when cleaning, for example, it is necessary to carry out a “general cleaning” in a solvent. In the case of the keylock, everything is simple. he stole it and put it in kerosene. Solid bike chain, even taken off the stars, will remain hanging on the frame.

In terms of removal, a chain with a lock is, of course, more convenient than its counterpart. However, for some reason, the fastening may loosen: the tick fly off, and the link itself can be disengaged. There are no such weak points on bicycle chains without locks, and if it is torn, then the point is solely in its quality.

Work process

Removing an element with a lock does not take much time and effort. Today there are several varieties of this bicycle chain device, but the principle of their opening is similar. It is necessary to close the axles and remove the cover. For convenience, you can use pliers, it is also good if you have pliers for opening at hand. Thus, the whole procedure does not take much time and it will be possible to quickly remove the malfunction, change the part or remove the chain from the bike.

If there is no lock, then you need to make some effort. For work, you need a special squeeze. It is a tool with which it is very convenient and easy to squeeze out a pin. To work, place the chain link so that the release axle is directly opposite the pin. Then you need to twist the handle and squeeze out the pin itself. It is very important not to allow it to pop out, otherwise it will be very difficult to insert the pin into place correctly. Further, the bicycle chain can be replaced or repaired.

There are also some points that Honor should follow when working. For example, there was repeated removal of the same bicycle chain, then the next time it is necessary to open another link and segment, because after this process it loosens a little. Also, some models of pomace may have two seats and you need to fasten the link carefully, correctly and carefully.

Removing the chain from a bike

You have become the owner of a bicycle and gradually understand the intricacies of its maintenance. Many things you can do yourself. replace the wheel, install a new speed switch, repair and clean some parts. Today we will show you how to remove a chain from a bicycle.

How to repair the chain yourself

The chain becomes wider and longer by increasing the distance between the parts. This is because the pins become loose with regular stress. The chain must be replaced with a new one when it lengthens by 0.5%. If you do not have a special tape for measuring, use another method:

  • Place the chain on the drive sprocket and pull it away from the teeth.
  • Measure the distance you can pull the chain. If it is more than 4 teeth, it needs to be replaced or repaired.

What to do? Remove the chain and remove a few extra links so that it passes freely, but without sagging, over the large sprocket. You can remove extra links using squeeze. Only in this case the pins are squeezed out completely. Don’t overdo it and don’t take away too much.

Removing the chain, which has a special lock

Removing such chains is easy and simple, it takes 1-2 minutes. You just open the lock and the chain is removed.

But our man is not looking for easy ways, and not every bicycle lover agrees to spend money on such tools, so all this can be done with the help of ordinary pliers or round-nose pliers with narrow noses.

If the lock is tight and does not lend itself just like that, you can try to remove it using an old cable from the brakes or gear shifting, strong rope or wire. To do this, a wire is threaded between the locking links, as shown in the figure. With a pair of pliers we grab both edges and pull sharply in opposite edges, unclenching the lock.

When is it necessary?

This procedure may be needed at the following points:

  • Replacing an old part with a new one;
  • Installation of new speed switches on the transport;
  • To make the chain shorter;
  • To clean the element.