Which Side To Glue The Patch On The Bicycle Camera

How to glue a bicycle camera. Alternative repair versions

If you don’t have a repair kit at hand, which makes it impossible to fix the wheel yourself, then it is important to prevent air leaks in order to get home. There are several ways to do this.

No glue

You can temporarily seal the puncture using materials that do not allow air to pass through:

  • a piece of polyethylene;
  • insulating tape;
  • foil.

After the impromptu patch is applied, you need to quickly inflate the wheel in order to press the patch to the hole as much as possible. This repair method does not guarantee 100% tightness, but it will allow you to get home.

Curing

You can contact the nearest auto repair shop, where they will seal the camera with wet rubber.

In doing so, do the following:

  • a special rubber patch is applied to the hole;
  • a camera with a patch applied to it is heated to a high temperature.

Such a connection is characterized by increased strength, but this cannot be done with improvised means.

Small home vulcanizers are available, but they are expensive. It makes no sense to buy such equipment to glue the bicycle camera.

How to glue the camera

Correctly glueing your bike tube is a snap. The main problems arise when removing the tube from the tire and reinstalling it. It is especially problematic to do this if the tires are hard. plastic beads will be required.

With patches

Repairing with patches is the best way to glue a bicycle tube at home. The patches last as long as the original cover and, when properly installed, do not allow air to pass through. To start the procedure, you need to prepare a repair kit, key and beads.

  • Inspect the punctured wheel carefully for sharp objects and remove them. Remove the wheel. this will make it easier to carry out the procedure.
  • Remove the camera from under the tire. Disassembling can take some time if the tire is thick and stiff. In this case, use plastic edging.
  • Check the rim tape. Puncture can be caused by improperly installed tape, causing the spoke heads to protrude beyond the rim. If they really stick out and put pressure on the camera, you will have to file the spokes.
  • Pump up air. this will make it easier to detect a puncture if it has not been noticed before. If you cannot visually find a puncture, you should bring the product to your face: this way you can feel the movement of air. The third option is to lower the camera into the water. Air bubbles will indicate the puncture site.
  • Lower camera.
  • In order not to lose the puncture of the bicycle wheel, it is recommended to circle it with a marker.
  • Wipe the puncture site with sandpaper or grout. this will help remove grease, upon contact with which the rubber glue will not work. Choose a patch of a suitable size, remove the protective foil from the back (orange) side. It is strictly forbidden to touch the adhesive side of the patch and the puncture site with your fingers.
  • Gently apply bike tube adhesive around the puncture and on the orange side of the patch. Wait about two minutes. Apply a patch, press it down with a heavy object and wait another 10-15 minutes.

It is important not to confuse which side to glue the patch to the camera. The black ribbed side should be on top and the orange one applied to the puncture

Another important point is the film on the ribbed side of the patch. It is not worth removing it: it prevents the camera from sticking to the inside of the tire.

If there are no patches

The question of how to glue the bicycle camera, if there is no patch, arises among cyclists in the field. If you do not have a repair kit with you, you can use a piece of polyethylene for temporary repair.

How to perform an urgent repair:

  • take a piece of polyethylene 10 cm wider than the puncture and 5 cm wider than the tire;
  • remove the camera, fold the polyethylene in half and attach to the place of damage;
  • start putting on the tire so that it first covers the puncture site and presses the polyethylene.

This emergency repair will help you get home. After, of course, you need to replace the polyethylene with a patch.

Near the nipple

There is no way to glue the bicycle tube near the nipple. If the gap goes along the base of the nipple, you will have to completely replace the camera.

Any cyclist can quickly glue a bicycle tube, only a repair kit and minimal dexterity are required. If the tire is punctured too often, it is recommended that you carry a spare tube with you. It is also worth checking the protector for abrasion. it may need to be replaced.

Emergency: Notes to the Cyclist

In the event of force majeure, a special repair kit with express patches will become the real proceeds. The kit will help you quickly troubleshoot and continue your journey. In the absence of a bicycle first aid kit and suitable equipment for sealing the hole in the chamber, it is necessary to inflate the tires to five atmospheres. The high pressure will press the tube against the tire, so the air will escape from it more slowly. This will allow you to reach your destination and start repairing in the future.

To protect yourself from such troubles, you can use a special anti-puncture fluid (sealant) for bicycle cameras: when a puncture occurs, it instantly fills the puncture area and hardens upon contact with air. It is enough to spin the wheel several times, pump it up, and you can continue on your way.

The procedure for gluing the camera with your own hands is as follows:

Therefore, it is important to fit it exactly to the extent of the damage. Before cutting out the patch, it is worth first sanding the old camera, degreasing its surface with alcohol and on the side that will be glued, stick a piece of electrical tape

which, side, glue, patch, bicycle

This manipulation will save the patch from pollution;

clean the puncture site itself from dirt, sand and degrease;

apply a thin layer of glue to the patch and the camera around the damage, wait for the time specified in the instructions for the glue. Rubber glue “Moment” provides for 10-15 minutes. expectations;

apply a patch to the place of damage in such a way that the hole is in its center

It is important that the patch lies in an even layer without the formation of air under its surface;

cover the repair area with paper and put the camera under the press for 12-24 hours.

Sequence of actions in case of an accident

How to glue correctly? Let’s take a look at the sequence of actions in case you do not have a spare camera. As many years of practice show, the inconveniences in nature are as follows:

  • darkness;
  • inability to sit down;
  • the presence of mosquitoes, midges and other “bloodsuckers”.
  • After making sure that you are “shaking” hard and the wheel is flat, first of all try to pump it up. It is quite possible that the puncture was half an hour ago, and the camera “holds”. In this case, after making one or two pumping up, you can safely get home and eliminate the defect in comfortable conditions.
  • If the wheel “drastically lowers” in less than a minute, you need to choose an even place, put the bike “on the butt”.
  • Using eccentrics, loosen the wheel fastening in the fork stays, be sure to disconnect the brake pads (V-brake) to remove the wheel. In the event of a puncture of the rear wheel, you need to move the lever of the shifters on the right to the smallest driven sprocket, and on the left to the smallest drive sprocket, disconnect the brake pads and, wearing gloves, remove the wheel.
  • The most crucial moment. the wheel needs to be disassembled. To do this, the mounting is inserted into the gap between the rim and the tire, and then it acts as a lever, and the tire is outside the rim.
  • After running the assembly around the rim (parallel to the spokes), the tire begins to dangle. Now, on the other hand, you can pull out the camera and carefully, taking care not to damage, release the valve from the hole in the rim.

Now you can diagnose. Sometimes it happens that the nail continues to stick out in the tire with the point inward. If overlooked, then, despite the repair, you will immediately receive a second puncture.

  • For diagnostics, the chamber is inflated to an elastic state.
  • The primary localization of the puncture is determined by the place of hissing.
  • If you place the camera with a hissing spot against your lips, you can feel the breeze from the air current.
  • You can then moisten the intended puncture site with water or simply spit on it. The place where bubbles originate is the puncture site.

Sometimes it is not possible to identify the hole. In this case, the camera is completely wetted or placed under water (if possible). Sometimes it happens that the chamber is intact, but the valve is “poisoned”. If there is no spare chamber, then you can try to move the valve inside or cover it with chewing gum after pumping the chamber.

  • Once a place is found, it can be easily lost. We take a pen and mark it with a cross or a circle.
  • To properly glue it, we thoroughly dry the camera and clean the place with sandpaper about 1 sq. see based on a point puncture. You can not clean, but degrease, for example, with alcohol.
  • Then we also clean the surface of the selected patch.
  • The glue is smeared over the chamber (first layer), a minute or two is waited until the glue dries.
  • Then apply the second layer on top of the first, wait 3-5 minutes.
  • Then the surfaces are tightly connected, so that they do not “ride” relative to each other.
  • To glue the camera, the glue is kept for 1-3 minutes, and then the camera is carefully laid in place, a valve is threaded.
  • The wheel “skips” and slowly inflates.

Everything! You can go.

Of course, it is better to have a modern first aid kit without glue. Attached and “forgot”. Better yet, have a whole new bike camera. Better yet, try not to drive where there is a high risk of “catching a nail”.

If you fail to fix the camera or you have forgotten something, then you have a way out of the situation: in the most extreme case, you can try to fill the tire tightly with grass or hay and carefully continue driving. In this case, you will move, albeit without the usual comfort, but much better than on “bone walkers” that existed before the invention of rubber tubes and tires

How to glue the patch correctly

After we have found and marked the puncture site of the bicycle tube, we should start repairing it, namely, glue this hole. To do this, you must perform the following operations.

If the chamber is wet (after searching for a defect), then wait until it is completely dry. Plus, it must be fully deflated. Using sandpaper or a special perforated iron plate (which is usually found in bicycle kits for repairing cameras), we clean the puncture site until a matte color appears. The sanding area should be 1 cm larger than the diameter of the bicycle patch. After this procedure, we try not to touch this place with our hands or other objects. We remove the protective film from the surface of the patch, which we will glue to the camera. We apply glue. It can be applied only to the patch, only to the camera, or both. This information can be viewed on the glue tube

We also pay attention to the exposure time in air indicated in the same place and the time of complete solidification (the last two points may not be indicated).

We firmly press the patch to the place we need, squeeze the air out from under it (for this we press on its center and gradually move to the edges) and keep it in this state for several minutes. The procedure is simplified by placing the camera on a flat surface, placing a solid plate (for example, a piece of laminate) on top and pressing it down with all your weight by stepping on it

Compress the gluing place for about 5 minutes.

Many people say that after that you can immediately put the camera in the wheel of the bike and ride, but I would advise you to wait at least another 30 minutes.

How to determine the puncture site

At first glance, a very simple procedure for identifying a puncture site can become significantly more complicated depending on where you find a flat tire (at home or while driving). To simplify the search procedure, it should be borne in mind that in 90% of cases it is located on the so-called “contact patch” of the wheel with the road, usually no higher than 2/3 of the camera height. An exception may be damage from the rim (if the rim tape is out of order on the latter) or the crawled iron threads of the tire cord. Therefore, we will consider several options for how to find the hole in the bicycle chamber through which air is released.

  • The easiest way is to lower the camera into the water. It is enough to have an insignificant tank, the depth of which allows it to be immersed at least 2/3 of its height. We rotate the camera until we find air bubbles that will burst out of the water. After we take it out, we find the puncture site and proceed to repair.
  • If there is no water nearby, then fine dust (which can be found on dirt roads) will come to the rescue. We increase the pressure in the chamber to strengthen the air stream from the hole and bring it a short distance to the dust (without touching it). We rotate the camera and look at the place where the dust begins to scatter.
  • If the weather is calm outside, the puncture can be detected by holding the camera to the wet wrist (inside of it). The skin should be wet to make the search as easy as possible. For this method, it is also desirable to increase the pressure.
  • With a strong puncture in a quiet place, it can be detected by ear.
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Tips on how to avoid punctures

In order not to think about how best to glue the camera, you can use self-adhesive products. They contain resin, which, if there is a hole, reliably seals it from the inside. The downside is that after a certain time, you still have to spend money on repairs, despite the fact that such a camera itself is an order of magnitude more expensive and weighs 2 times more.

To reduce the risk of punctured cameras, you need to use the following tips:

  • monitor the pressure in the wheels. it should be optimal (for bicycles, the indicator is 2.5-9 bar, depending on the type of equipment);
  • on cold days, pump up the camera a little more, but not higher than the maximum allowable (indicated in the instructions for the bike);
  • change worn tires in time;
  • do not “storm” obstacles, do not allow hitting the wheels.

You can also purchase a special anti-puncture tape for bicycles, which reliably protects the camera from punctures. This strip of rubberized plastic or Kevlar fits between the tube and tire. Over time, the tape can abrade the camera, so it is recommended to use such a device in dangerous situations, and not constantly. It is better to choose clean roads, ride in special areas for cyclists so that you do not have to spend time repairing a damaged camera.

How to glue a car camera: procedure

To repair a wheel at home, you need to get a piece of old rubber. You will need high-quality glue, for example, “Moment” or another that is suitable for rubber products. Also, to fix the problem, you should prepare:

  • sandpaper with medium grain;
  • a container with water (even a puddle is suitable on the road);
  • a piece of soap;
  • scissors;
  • solvent or other liquid for degreasing;
  • pump.

Finding the site of damage

After a wheel puncture, a side cut, a shallow or deep crack, or a puncture may form. Such defects lead to a violation of the tightness of the product. Air begins to escape through the hole, the chamber is deflated. Finding a puncture site is sometimes difficult, especially in wet weather when the tires are dirty. Most often, the defect is formed at the “contact patch”. where the wheel comes into contact with the road. It is located no higher than 2/3 of the total height of the camera.

Less common rim damage associated with damage to the rim tape. Another possible problem is a tube burst from the crawled out iron threads of the tire cord. You can find the location of the defect using different methods. First, you need to get the camera using any non-sharp object or special tire changer. After it, it is necessary to visually inspect for holes. In the absence of a result, you can use the following techniques:

  • Submersion into the water. Put the camera in water, even a small container will do. Rotate the product in water until the emerging air bubbles are visible. this is where the puncture site will be. This method is even more effective when the water is soapy. Large car cameras can be simply lubricated with soapy water.
  • Fine dust. This is usually found on roads in dry weather. It is necessary to bring the camera to the dust, press down firmly on the product. When a trickle of air begins to come out of the damaged area, the dust will scatter.
  • Hand. In calm weather, you can simply hold a wet hand at a distance of 1-2 cm from the camera surface. This is enough to feel the breath of air from the hole. To increase the effectiveness of the method, you can involve an assistant who will put pressure on the camera.
  • Sound. If it is quiet outside in the garage, you can hear the sound of air coming out (a slight whistle) from the puncture. You should first inflate the wheel to maximum elasticity.

After identifying the hole, it must be carefully marked with a ballpoint pen. Then you can start repair work. Similarly, it is possible to repair other rubber inflatable products, such as tubing for riding.

Patch

Applying a patch is a simple process. To properly prepare it, you need to take a piece of rubber (an unnecessary car camera or one taken from a sled cheesecake will do), cut an oval or round piece with scissors. The size of the patch should not be large, only 15 mm overlapping the hole on each side.

Next, you need to sandpaper the place where the patch is applied, as well as the cut out element itself. So the adhesion strength of the parts will be better. After that it is necessary to degrease both surfaces with acetone, alcohol.

Pasting the damaged area

Having prepared high-quality glue, you can start working with already degreased surfaces:

Apply adhesive to both substrates

Carefully smooth the adhesive layer with a small spatula and let dry for 3-5 minutes. If instructed, apply another layer on top of the first

Do not make a glue seam that is too thick, this can ruin the quality of the finished product. Press the camera and the patch together. For a tighter fit of the part over the entire plane, the camera must first be laid out on a table or on another flat surface. After gluing, the patch should be up. Take a hammer, tap from the center to the edges of the patch with spiral movements so that the element adheres more securely. It is enough to go through the patch 3 times.

After complete drying, you need to put the camera back into the tire, pump it up, return the wheel to its proper place.

Repair process

To glue a wheel on a bicycle, you must first remove it. Consider the main stages of repair.

Removing a wheel from a bike

For convenience, turn the bike over, placing it on the handlebars and wheels. Next, you need to do the following:

  • Unscrew the bolts holding the brake.
  • Remove brakes.
  • Dismantle the wings (if they complicate further actions).
  • Unscrew the retaining bolts.
  • Pull the wheel out of the grooves.

The punctured wheel is dismantled, you can proceed to the next stage.

How to remove the tire and remove the camera

Now you need to remove the tire and get out the damaged bike tube. This is not difficult:

  • We unscrew the spool from the nipple (you can just press it with a thin object).
  • We take out the mounting tool and insert it between the rim and the tire.
  • Gently squeeze the surfaces of the tire and rim all over the wheel.
  • We take out the nipple from the rim.

After all the manipulations, you can remove the camera.

How to find the place of damage

There are several ways to find the damaged area:

  • Visually. Large holes can be detected by examining the surface.
  • By rumor. To do this, you need to squeeze the camera as much as possible and listen to where the air comes out from.
  • Soap solution. Treat the surface with soap and water. bubbles will appear at the puncture site.
  • Immersion in water. The damaged area is determined by air bubbles.

When damage is found, chalk it around.

Helpful advice. It is not always possible to locate the puncture site visually or by ear, and it can be difficult to find water in the field. You can make your job easier if you put a piece of foam sponge, a remnant and a small bottle of water in your first aid kit. Soap solution will significantly speed up your search.

How to properly glue a bicycle tube

To glue the place of damage and the patch was held firmly, you need to perform the following operations:

  • dry the surface (if the search was carried out with water or soapy water);
  • clean the area with sandpaper;
  • degrease with a solvent (alcohol, gasoline or acetone);
  • remove the protective film from the patch;
  • grease a patch or camera with glue;
  • after applying the glue, press the patch tightly to the damaged area;
  • wait for the drying time specified in the instructions for the glue.

In addition to the special patch sold in the repair kit, you can glue the camera with thin pieces of rubber.

When the patch is applied, it is recommended to pump up the camera and check for additional damage. In addition, you need to carefully inspect the tire. It is not uncommon for nails, needles, or other small sharp objects to get stuck in the tire, causing repeated damage after installing the camera.

How to put the wheel back together

The camera is sealed and needs to be reinstalled. To do this, all the operations described earlier are performed in reverse order:

  • insert the nipple into the hole on the rim;
  • carefully place the deflated tube between the rim and the tire;
  • tuck the tire into the rim using the fitting.

It remains only to inflate the wheel and install it in place.

Where to begin? Determine the puncture site

The most common causes of a tube puncture are tire wear and off-road driving. Although, in fact, there are much more reasons. Riding on a flat tire can become a common culprit for a hole in the cameras, which will lead to tire and rim wear, the repair of which is much more difficult and expensive than repairing the camera.

Before proceeding with gluing, you should make sure that there is a puncture in reality and determine its very place. To do this, you need to inflate the wheel, screw the nipple well and determine by ear where the wheel lets air through.

The next step is to unscrew the wheel. To do this, the bike should be placed on the steering wheel, after placing a protective base under the seat to avoid scratches and dirt. When unscrewing the rear wheel, place the chain on the back of the smallest sprocket. This will greatly simplify the assembly procedure after repair. The presence of a v-brake type brake shoe provides for its opening by means of a set of brake levers and pulling the metal arcuate tip of the jacket out of the groove. If the wheel is secured with bolts, loosen them. With normal fastening, it is worth unscrewing the eccentric by bending the lever and turning the nut in the opposite direction.

After the wheel is removed, proceed to disassembly:

  • we lower the wheel;
  • using a spatula-assembly, we hook up the side of the tire and turn it outward, attaching the other end of the assembly to the spoke;
  • repeat the procedure at a distance of about 20 cm from the first scapula;
  • remove the tire by hand.

If you don’t have the tools on hand, try doing it yourself. A short video guide will help you:

After taking out the camera, you should pump it up and put it in the sink with water. The presence of holes in it will be seen by a thin stream of air in the form of bubbles. If the damage is very small, it is necessary to squeeze the chamber with your hand, increasing the pressure in it. This will lead to a faster release of air from it. Holes in the chamber can be caused not only by puncture, but also by breakdown. In the latter case, there will be several short parallel cuts.

It is important to thoroughly inspect the tire for all sorts of stuck objects that can cause a repeated puncture.

Puncture prevention

One of the best ways to avoid puncturing your wheels is to purchase self-adhesive tubes. Inside such a structure there is a special resin, which, in case of breakdowns, flows into the puncture point and completely seals it.

Self-adhesive cameras allow you to forget about repairs, but they are expensive and exceed the weight standard of conventional cameras by two, two and a half times.

The second way to prolong the life of the camera is anti-puncture tape. This device is inserted between the tire and the tube, thereby reducing the risk of possible puncture. The tape is made of dense rubber and is just an additional layer of protection.

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General tips to prevent puncture:

  • Inflate the wheel correctly: it should not be over-inflated or poorly inflated, the optimally inflated chamber is elastic to the touch, but pliable when pressed;
  • It is not recommended to ride on trashy roads: sharp stones, screws, glass, can pose a serious threat to tires;
  • avoid collisions with curbs and pits, this can further lead to damage to the protective qualities of the tire;
  • use a special tape placed between the tire and the tire to prevent damage;
  • use special products with a sealant inside. This filling allows you to immediately glue the tire without the intervention of the cyclist.
  • Also, many professional cyclists take a spare camera with them when going on a ride.

How to properly glue a bicycle tube?

In the event of a puncture or other damage, it is rare that professionals help to seal the bike camera, and the riders have to do everything with their own hands.

Standard repair process

As with any accident, there is a “routine procedure” to repair a camera at home. It assumes that you have all the necessary tools, and behind you. at least a couple of cases when you had to remove and disassemble the wheels.

It will be difficult for beginners the first time, but no fundamental problems should arise during the repair process.

Tools

So, what are we working on. Mandatory set:

  • glue,
  • patch.
  • keys and hexagons (for wheels without an eccentric);
  • dismantling, it is also a mounting, is a small tool for bending the tire from the rim, it can be easily replaced with a screwdriver or even keys, allows you to work a little more quickly;
  • a basin, jar or other vessel with water. to diagnose the site of damage;
  • vise. for pressing the surface of the camera and the patch to each other.

As you can see, the required set is very limited, which allows repairs to be carried out in almost any conditions.

Repair is carried out according to the standard procedure, after passing which at least once the gluing will not cause any questions.

Dismantle the wheel

The first thing to do is to remove the wheel with the damaged tube. To do this, you will have to do the following:

  • Disconnect the brakes, if they are rim, wings, if they can interfere with the work with the wheel.
  • Flip the bike.
  • We unscrew the retaining bolts on the bushing or eccentrics.
  • We carefully take out the wheel. In case of problems with the rear wheel, it is most effective to hold the chain, first move the wheel axle towards the saddle, and then, lifting it, pull it out.

Now nothing interferes with the work with the wheel, you can proceed to further steps.

Removing the camera

Usually the most difficult step is to “get” the camera from the assembled wheel. With the skill and the right tool, it’s very easy.

The wheel can be disassembled using edgers or any flat objects. screwdrivers, keys, even coins:

  • We completely lower the camera on the bike. To do this, unscrew the spool from the nipple. On good rubber, this can be done using a groove in the cap; on cheap models, you have to hold the spool with your hands until all the air is released. In some cases, this step will have to be done before removing the wheel, as the wide XC rubber will cling to the brakes and frame.
  • Choosing a place on the back of the bicycle wheel from the nipple to start dismantling.
  • We drive the bead between the rim and the tire vertically down, trying not to hurt the camera inside.
  • We retreat 10-15 centimeters from the first, drive the second.
  • Carefully, like levers, lift the tire until a small segment is behind the outer part of the rim.
  • Next, we remove the rest of the tire with our hands.
  • Carefully remove the valve from the groove in the rim, take out the camera.

The result of all actions is a disassembled wheel, with the tire “put on” over the edge of the rim, and a free tube, ready for repair.

Looking for damage

Damage search is a creative thing, albeit rather primitive. Almost everyone recommends using a basin or other container of water to determine the point of damage by the bubbles, but this is not the easiest way, because you have to dry the camera and risk water getting inside through the nipple in order to save a few seconds.

The definition is much simpler and more accessible by ear:

  • Pump up the bike camera.
  • We bring it to our ear and look for a point where air etching is heard.
  • We localize the puncture site of the chamber by air flow or visually.

Everything is very simple. It is only necessary to check for damage around the valve. With such damage, it will no longer be possible to seal the breakdown without special tools.

Glue

Further, the repair kit comes into its own:

  • We clean the surface from grease with acetone or gasoline, in the field. with a clean cloth.
  • We go around the surface with sandpaper (not necessary, but useful for gluing quality).
  • Remove the protective film from the patch.
  • Apply glue, according to the instructions on the tube, on one or two surfaces at the same time.
  • Press the patch firmly against the camera and hold it, trying not to move the parts relative to each other.

Then it remains to wait for the “setting”, which occurs, depending on the description, either immediately or within 5-15 minutes. In modern repair kits, the glue is usually quite fast, but at home you can also use the classic “Moment”, which will take several hours to harden. How to glue correctly is described in detail on the packaging of the tubes inside the repair kits.

In addition to using non-specialized adhesives, the patch itself can be made from an old camera. The main thing is that the rubber is intact and well cleaned.

Putting it all together again

After checking the tube (it should be fully inflated outside the wheel to make sure that any damage is repaired), you can reassemble the wheel and reinstall it.

  • We check the insulating tape inside the rim (usually it is not fixed or it is easy to move during manipulation).
  • Carefully place the bicycle tube inside the rim, starting with the valve and making sure that no kinks appear.
  • With the help of assemblies, similar to removal, we “fill” the tire in place. Before that, it is recommended to pump up the camera a little so that it does not press against the rim.

The wheel is assembled, we pump it completely for testing and proceed with the installation. For the front wheel, you should pay attention to the marking on the tire in the form of an arrow, which is sometimes supplemented by the inscription Drive. This is the direction in which the wheel should turn. Install with the appropriate side so that the protector works correctly.

Alternative repair versions

There are situations when there is no repair kit with you. It’s impossible to predict everything, but here are a couple of recommendations:

  • The patch can be made from any rubber, including an old camera, automobile or technical rubber.
  • What kind of glue to use is not very important, as long as it is intended for rubber. It is better not to use hardening industrial and household compounds.

No glue

There is also an extreme case when in a problem situation the rider is left without glue and tools, for example, a puncture was received while riding around the city, but you still need to get to the house. In such situations, there are also ways out. For example, the chamber is cleaned and a patch is applied to it in such a way that when the pressure is strongly inflated, the pressure presses the patch.

Otherwise, if no patch is available, tape or a wetted plastic bag is used. In situational repairs by “applying” the surfaces are not cleaned with emery, but on the contrary, they are wiped as smoothly as possible so that there are fewer gaps.

Of course, all these methods are temporary, and they only work for a short time, subject to strict restrictions:

  • The contact surface must be clean and smooth.
  • Shock loading of the wheel is prohibited.
  • The pressure must be constantly monitored and kept at maximum.

Curing

The glueless method that comes from the automotive world is vulcanization, which is also used on a bicycle. Requires special equipment, but reliably repairs punctures. The essence of the vulcanization process is that the peeled patch and the chamber are pressed against each other with great force and heating, in fact, they are fused, forming a single structure.

Vulcanization is much more reliable than any adhesive patches, but requires skill and additional equipment. By the way, there are “household” or home-made vulcanizers, consisting of a vice with a cylinder and a chamber for burning, for example, gasoline or other fuel. The only advice you can give is to be careful with fire.

How to prevent puncture

It is easy to work with the repair kit, but there are several technological methods that allow you to repair cameras without it.

Perhaps the most interesting products in this area are self-adhesive cameras. Their secret is that a special gel or resin is poured into the dense chamber. In the event of a breakdown, this substance flows into the rupture and seals it. Thus, self-adhesive models allow you not to think about repairs for some time, however, such cameras cost at least twice as much as their conventional counterparts with a weight of 1.5-2 times more.

Otherwise, puncture prevention is very simple:

  • Inflate the wheel correctly. An under-inflated or over-inflated wheel is prone to bursting from biting or pressure, respectively.
  • Choose clean roads. The most common cause of punctures is iron screws, nails and glass. They can be easily avoided simply by observing the surface you are moving on.
  • Do not storm obstacles head-on. Even a shock-absorbed front wheel hitting a sharp edge is guaranteed to cause damage, even if no breakdown occurs the first time.
  • Use “anti-puncture tape”, which is an extra layer of synthetic rubber that is placed between the tire and the tube inside the wheel.

Home repair is very real. To implement it, you need a minimum of tools and knowledge. It is enough to take a responsible approach to the issue and study all the steps. Of course, it is much more useful to monitor the wheels and the road before the accident, but in the event of a breakdown or damage there will be no problems and going to a workshop or a tire fitting service is almost never needed to seal the hole.

How to properly glue the bike camera

A punctured bicycle tube is the most common cause of a cyclist’s sudden stop. At the same time, oddly enough, a puncture is not a breakdown, but an annoying, but inevitable incident. Today we will talk about how to glue a bicycle camera.

On the one hand, camera punctures on a bicycle should happen less often than on a car, because a car has twice as many wheels, and their contact area with the road is also larger. But in fact, it turns out that cars for the most part move on roads with good coverage. And cyclists “collect” all sorts of dangerous items on the side of the road. And the tire on the bicycle is much thinner, and the load on it is greater.

Why Camera Tears Occur

In addition to banal punctures, camera breaks are possible on a bicycle.

A gap is a linear defect that has not a point size, but visible boundaries. This is because when jumping off curbs, when riding aggressively, the camera experiences significant shock loads, and the quality of the rubber is very important. Sometimes, as in the picture, the tube rupture occurs along with the tire.

What is the most “tragic” gap for the camera?

The camera cannot be repaired, perhaps, with one type of rupture. a valve tearing along part of the circumference.

A sign of such an event is a deafening hiss and the transformation of the camera into a “rag” in 3-5 seconds. After that, the cycling tube can only be used for patches.

How to prevent camera puncture

In many cases, the puncture can be prevented. To do this, you need to follow some simple conditions:

  • when installing the camera for the first time, it must be dry, preferably powdered with talcum powder;
  • there should be no debris, small stones in the tire;
  • the wheel should be carefully examined. there should be no protruding ends of the spokes, the safety tape should be intact, fit snugly to the rim;
  • the valve of the chamber should be threaded into the rim perpendicularly, and not crooked;
  • while riding, an experienced cyclist looks at the path 5-7 meters in front of the bike, noting “on the subconscious” the shine of fragments of glass, metal, planks, wire, accumulation of suspicious debris, small and sharp stones. If you cannot go around them, it is better to walk on foot (in this case, the weight of the bike will not be enough to puncture;
  • if, nevertheless, a shard of a bottle “twisted” from under the front wheel with a crunch, swing your bike so that the rear wheel does not pass over the same dangerous object. After all, there is nothing more offensive than ripping through both wheels with the same shard of a bottle or a nail firmly sticking out of the board;
  • try to “jump” less from curbs by loading the rear wheel, especially if you have a lot of weight.
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What to bring with you in case of a puncture

Everyone is going on a journey in their own way, sometimes not at all. The understanding that you need to be “fully armed”, as a rule, comes after the wheel is lowered in bad weather far from home. As luck would have it, there is nothing, not even a pump. It takes a whole hour, and sometimes much longer, to ride the bike “on the bit”, returning home chilled and often at night.

To prevent this from happening, you need to have the following minimum set, which will save you in almost any situation and allow you to carry out repairs yourself:

Pump. As the saying goes, “no comment.” If you have everything, but you forget the pump, as they say, “our congratulations”;

LED headlamp. Helps with repairs at night. Even if you have a super headlight on your bike, it will be inconvenient and often impossible to use it by deploying it to the place of breakdown;

Spare camera. This allows you to avoid the most unpleasant incident. valve separation. Without a spare camera, you will be powerless. Among other things, it is very convenient to have a “watch” camera. You save travel time by simply replacing the camera. At home, you can safely fix the camera and put it back in, and hide the camera in the “glove compartment”.

A set of “editors”. They are used to disassemble the wheel and to reassemble it. In Soviet times, they used a flat universal wrench, a screwdriver, a spoon handle. everything that can fit between the rim and the tire.

Cycling first-aid kit The first-aid kit deserves special mention. A “classic first aid kit” should have something like the following repair kit:

  • Rubber patches of different sizes (you can cut it yourself from an unusable camera).
  • Medium grit sandpaper, which can rub well on rubber, but looks lighter).
  • How to glue? The classic first aid kit comes with a small tube of rubber glue.

The main task is to ensure that the camera glue does not “suddenly” dry out. The fact is that the glue can just “suddenly” dry out, and just when a puncture occurs.

Modern versions of the first-aid kit are more compact, in terms of volume they occupy no more than a quarter of a box of matches. The fact is that instead of glue, they simply contain self-adhesive patches. Their big advantage is that you don’t have to wait for the glue to dry. You just need to firmly press the patch to the camera and “forget”.

  • It is also advisable to have a water bottle. It can be drinking water, or maybe after a puncture you will be able to find a small reservoir with a convenient descent point.
  • Regular ballpoint pen.
  • Mosquito and midge repellent. This is an important accessory, especially in summer in Siberia.
  • A pair of rag gloves (in case you have to remove the chain to free the rear wheel. it’s not good to ride with dirty hands).

Sequence of actions in case of an accident

How to glue correctly? Let’s take a look at the sequence of actions in case you do not have a spare camera. As many years of practice show, the inconveniences in nature are as follows:

  • darkness;
  • inability to sit down;
  • the presence of mosquitoes, midges and other “bloodsuckers”.
  • After making sure that you are “shaking” hard and the wheel is flat, first of all try to pump it up. It is quite possible that the puncture was half an hour ago, and the camera “holds”. In this case, after making one or two pumping up, you can safely get home and eliminate the defect in comfortable conditions.
  • If the wheel “drastically lowers” in less than a minute, you need to choose an even place, put the bike “on the butt”.
  • Using eccentrics, loosen the wheel fastening in the fork stays, be sure to disconnect the brake pads (V-brake) to remove the wheel. In the event of a puncture of the rear wheel, you need to move the lever of the shifters on the right to the smallest driven sprocket, and on the left to the smallest drive sprocket, disconnect the brake pads and, wearing gloves, remove the wheel.
  • The most crucial moment. the wheel needs to be disassembled. To do this, the mounting is inserted into the gap between the rim and the tire, and then it acts as a lever, and the tire is outside the rim.
  • After running the assembly around the rim (parallel to the spokes), the tire begins to dangle. Now, on the other hand, you can pull out the camera and carefully, taking care not to damage, release the valve from the hole in the rim.

Now you can diagnose. Sometimes it happens that the nail continues to stick out in the tire with the point inward. If overlooked, then, despite the repair, you will immediately receive a second puncture.

  • For diagnostics, the chamber is inflated to an elastic state.
  • The primary localization of the puncture is determined by the place of hissing.
  • If you place the camera with a hissing spot against your lips, you can feel the breeze from the air current.
  • You can then moisten the intended puncture site with water or simply spit on it. The place where bubbles originate is the puncture site.

Sometimes it is not possible to identify the hole. In this case, the camera is completely wetted or placed under water (if possible). Sometimes it happens that the chamber is intact, but the valve is “poisoned”. If there is no spare chamber, then you can try to move the valve inside or cover it with chewing gum after pumping the chamber.

  • Once a place is found, it can be easily lost. We take a pen and mark it with a cross or a circle.
  • To properly glue it, we thoroughly dry the camera and clean the place with sandpaper about 1 sq. see based on a point puncture. You can not clean, but degrease, for example, with alcohol.
  • Then we also clean the surface of the selected patch.
  • The glue is smeared over the chamber (first layer), a minute or two is waited until the glue dries.
  • Then apply the second layer on top of the first, wait 3-5 minutes.
  • Then the surfaces are tightly connected, so that they do not “ride” relative to each other.
  • To glue the camera, the glue is kept for 1-3 minutes, and then the camera is carefully laid in place, a valve is threaded.
  • The wheel “skips” and slowly inflates.

Everything! You can go.

Of course, it is better to have a modern first aid kit without glue. Attached and “forgot”. Better yet, have a whole new bike camera. Better yet, try not to drive where there is a high risk of “catching a nail”.

If you fail to fix the camera or you have forgotten something, then you have a way out of the situation: in the most extreme case, you can try to fill the tire tightly with grass or hay and carefully continue driving. In this case, you will move, albeit without the usual comfort, but much better than on “bone walkers” that existed before the invention of rubber tubes and tires.

How to repair your bike camera yourself at home

While tubeless tires are occupying new segments of the automotive industry, cycling enthusiasts still prefer to use rubber, which is equipped with rubber tubes. The features of operation and the high cost of tubeless options make themselves felt. Naturally, the question of how to glue a bicycle camera is still relevant, especially since this part remains among the leaders not only in terms of re-suitability, but also in terms of replaceability.

Bicycle cameras: types and features

The traditional pair of “tire cameras” is gradually losing its leadership, but nevertheless, most bicycles are “shod” with their help. Manufacturers and designers have already presented to the market alternative solutions. tubeless and self-adhesive versions, as well as a reinforced butyl chamber made of synthetic rubber with a special margin of safety and increased elasticity.

As in the case of tubeless, the transition to improved rubber is prevented by their double cost compared to a conventional product. Therefore, a fairly solid army of riders with a breeze still rides on ordinary rubber, from time to time patching it up or changing it to a new one.

What you need to have on hand for prompt rubber repair

The optimal set of tools is already included with the bike. But a repair kit for rubber should be periodically updated, since it has a shelf life of from several months to a year. It will not be difficult to repair a puncture using a repair kit, since it includes everything you need:

  • a tube of rubber glue;
  • patches of various shapes and diameters;
  • mounting blades;
  • metal grater for cleaning the area with a puncture.

Some repair kits come with wrenches and detailed instructions with infographics. If there is no tube with glue in the box or bag, this may mean that a self-adhesive layer is applied to the patches and it is enough just to press them tightly to the cleaned and prepared puncture site, holding in this position for some time.

In an attempt to find the best solution to the question of how to glue a bicycle camera at home or quickly and efficiently eliminate a puncture right during the trip, bicycle fans are ready to go to various experiments. Meanwhile, there is a 100% effective algorithm that has been tested for decades in practice.

So, here’s a step-by-step guide on how to properly glue the bike camera.

  • Make sure the flat tire is caused by a puncture and not by a problem with the nipple. To do this, pump up the wheel and check if this area is the cause of air leakage by moistening the hole with soapy water or simply dropping water into it.
  • Examine the tire carefully. Clean it from glass fragments and other debris, then remove the wheel and disassemble it.
  • Take out the chamber and pump it up to locate the puncture site. This can be done by ear. the air will leave the shell with a hiss. The second option visualizes the problem and allows you to make a better audit of the rubber integrity. To do this, water is collected in a basin or any other container, after which sections of the wheel are gradually immersed into it and puncture points are determined where it is necessary to glue the patch. In order not to lose them, you can put marks with a marker or ordinary chalk, outlining the puncture.
  • If water was used for diagnostics, let it dry completely before gluing the bicycle tube, then prepare the damaged areas for applying glue and installing a patch.

5. Grind the puncture site to the size of the patch and apply a thin layer of adhesive to it. 6. Remove the protective film from the patch and firmly attach it to the rubber surface. 7. Collect the wheel.

What if you don’t have a repair kit at hand? What kind of glue to use? What material to make patches from? How to degrease rubber? In such cases, there is no choice but to glue the bicycle camera with a patch cut from the same rubber from the old camera, but no longer subject to repair, and stored for this purpose. As an adhesive base, you can use any composition, in the target description of which there is a note “for rubber”. Cleaning and degreasing the surface can be done with a piece of sandpaper.

Many are interested in: is it possible to glue the patch with superglue? It is possible, but only to get to the place of repair, since elastic rubber quickly destroys the hardened glue.

And one more moment, sometimes causing difficulties: which side to glue the patch? The protective layer is removed from a plain, smooth surface, which must be applied to the camera.