Klaxon or bell?
Whatever variety of accessories is offered today, the main ones in terms of execution and form are precisely bells and horns. Consider the subtleties of each of them in order to decide on the acquisition of one or another.
Call. It can be classic and electric. The first is also called “shock”. this is due to the principle of work. You hit the bell (or use a lever or button for this). the mechanism comes into action. The tone of the received sound and the required impact force will depend on the size of such a call.
The electric model is one of the newest and very convenient ones. In particular, its main difference is in the way of sound reproduction. A whole gamut of options is involved here, and on some models. whole musical compositions. In addition, some models can be set to continuous “beep” mode, so that, for example, do not lose your transport. Such a beep can be triggered by any impact. again, depending on the selected model. An unpleasant feature is that such a call is powered by batteries or some other recharging option. So before a long trip you will have to take care of this extra. The main disadvantage is that wires are often used for fastening, which is inconvenient for child cyclists. Some models are difficult to use, or difficult to operate, requiring too much effort. Buying a bell is recommended for teenagers and adults, experienced cyclists.
Bike call, how to choose a bike call
The bicycle bell is one of the important additions for two-wheeled vehicles. Sometimes it comes already in the kit, but in most cases you have to purchase this part yourself. Then the questions arise. how to choose the right bicycle bell and what should you pay attention to? And is he really needed at all? We will find out about this further.
The main purpose of the bell is to keep the cyclist and pedestrians safe. Of course, the matter here is not as serious as if we were talking about a car, but bicycle accidents can cause a lot of trouble. The horn will make you more visible on the road in the evening. This is especially important for those who do not have the opportunity to move along a special cycle path and have to move next to cars. In addition, you can easily alert pedestrians in front to be careful. Thus, most troubles can be easily prevented.
Calls today can be found for every taste and wallet. From budget classic options to multifunctional models with a variety of mounting options, design and rugged housing. An alternative to the bell is a bicycle horn. The design is simpler, but less convenient. Its use requires large physical costs, so calls are usually preferred.
What to look for when buying?
There are several basic criteria that are most important for this type of accessory. Many of them also form the cost of the part.
The most important point is the ringer volume. It, as mentioned earlier, can be determined by many factors. If we are talking about a classic dial tone, then the size and material of which the bell is made (plastic, metal, etc.) matters. In electric. it all depends solely on the “idea of the author.” Often times, electrical calls can be tested for loudness in the sales department. Some models have a volume control function. In addition, you may encounter “increased volume” models. They are more expensive. but also more efficient; the pneumatic models are considered the loudest. Their power reads off scale for 100 dB, and
How to properly fix the wheels on the eccentric?
Installation of wheels, depending on the method of fastening, is carried out in different ways. The mounting methods for traditional and adjustable eccentrics are very similar in many ways, but will be discussed separately.
Advantages and disadvantages of eccentrics
The main reason for the appearance of this fastener is convenience and ease of use. In order to dismantle or fix this or that equipment, you do not need wrenches, and in time it will take a few seconds. In terms of reliability and tightening force, the eccentric is not inferior to traditional nut fasteners.
The advantages of eccentrics:
- It is difficult to underestimate them on the road, when there is a need to quickly dismantle a wheel to fix it.
- When adjusting the saddle in height with simultaneous centering relative to the bike frame, this fastener is indispensable.
- Not everyone likes to carry around a set of wrenches. It is not as difficult as it is not aesthetically pleasing: to ride with clattering keys in a pouch.
Cons of eccentric design:
- Unlike a conventional nut, this design is more complex, and therefore more susceptible to shock absorption.
With prolonged use, the eccentric springs weaken, and the fastening becomes unreliable.
In practice, of course, no one has lost the wheel, but the consequences will not be slow to declare themselves. The main one is a violation of the adjustment of the brakes, first of all, disc.
It is possible to identify the loosening of the fastening by changing the wheel travel. a backlash appears.
Arriving at the parking place of the two-wheeled “horse”, you can find only a fastened frame with a steering wheel. Good wheels and a high-quality saddle with a seatpost are a great trophy for “dishonest” colleagues.
How to attach bicycle wheels to the eccentric?
Simplicity and ease of operation and maintenance is one of the main trends of the present, and this is reflected in many spheres of human activity: in work and rest.
Various devices and attachments make it easy to get the desired result without much effort.
The world of fastening connections in the velomir also did not stand aside. A fastener has appeared, which, due to its design, can do without a special tool. this is an eccentric.
How to twist the eccentric?
Due to the slight difference in the design of the traditional and adjustable eccentric, their installation differs only in some nuances, but more on that later.
In general, to install the eccentric in place, you need:
- Set the locking lever to the “Open” position.
- Calibrate the length of the shaft axis with the adjusting nut. Tighten it so that there is a small gap.
- Move to the adjustment state, intermediate position between “Open” and “Close”. Set the equipment to be attached to the desired position.
- Close the lever, i.e. move it to the “Close” position.
- Check the reliability of fixation. in the “Close” position, the lever should not rotate.
Types of eccentrics
The variety of bicycle eccentrics is amazing. there are two of them:
- Adjustable (Clix).
The basic design of both types is similar. it is a combination of the following:
- Shaft axle inserted into the wheel hub.
- Adjusting nut. Calibrates the required axle length.
- Clamping disc. The working unit through which the fixation of the fastened element (wheel, seatpost) is carried out.
- Eccentric. Locking lever equipped with an offset pinch shaft.
What is a bicycle eccentric?
The eccentric type of attachment has appeared relatively recently, but has firmly taken its place. It is mainly used in fastening bicycle wheels, seat posts, and in folding veloram designs.
In addition to their main duties, eccentrics are used in attaching various additional bicycle accessories, where clamps are present.
Wheel fixing with a simple eccentric
- The fastening lever is transferred to the open state “Open”.
- The wheel is installed in the dropouts so that the hub fits snugly against the inner area of the bicycle fork stays.
- We transfer the eccentric lever to the adjustment state: intermediate between “Open” and “Close”.
- Do not tighten the adjusting nut tightly, leaving a small gap.
- We transfer the eccentric to the “Close” position.
- When manipulating the lever, tactile resistance should be observed.
- If the resistance is insurmountable, then it is necessary to unscrew the adjustment nut one turn.
- If the growl closes without effort, then the adjustment nut must be tightened.
The applied force to close the eccentric should not be lower than 5-6 kg (54 N) and above 20 kg (200 N).
When closing the eccentric, make sure that the levers, when closed, do not touch or interfere with other elements of the bike (shields, trunk, etc.).
After fixing the wheel, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics:
- The eccentric lever must not rotate around its axis.
- The wheel must rotate strictly in its plane and be securely fixed.
To check the fixation, raise the bike and hit the wheel from above.
Wheel fastening with a “Clix” eccentric
In contrast to the traditional mechanism, where the power clamp must be adjusted at each dismantling, the “Clix” system with its design allows you to use once made adjustment always.
However, this design feature of the mechanism does not allow the once-adjusted eccentric to be used on other bicycle forks or with different wheels.
Clix Wheel Installation Procedure
- We transfer the eccentric to the “Open” position. We press the mechanism cup with the eccentric lever and firmly insert the wheel into the bike dropouts.
- We transfer the eccentric to the “Close” fixing position. When closing the fastening mechanism, the eccentric lever is not allowed to rotate, as this can lead to a deterioration in the quality of fastening.
In advance, i.e. before fixing the eccentric, set the lever in such a position that, after closing it, it does not interfere with or come into contact with other elements of the bike.
Check that the wheel is securely fastened in the same way as for fastening with a traditional eccentric.
Summing up, it should be mentioned that the development of bicycle eccentrics is not over.
In some designs, for safety reasons, hex keys are used instead of levers, and in others, the locking lever is equipped with secrets, for example, opening the eccentric only in an inverted position (bicycle on the handlebar and saddle).
How to pick up a bike bell
In this age of diversity, you have to choose everything, even the bicycle bell.
Now we will help you figure out which call is right for you.
- If you are a serious person and prefer not to disturb others over trifles and save space on the steering wheel (for example, if you have a Strida), then definitely your choice. a compact minimalistic bell that emits a single squeak at a non-standard frequency, so that everyone can hear it. So, a call made in England to BLB.
- If you are a cheerful person, you like to make fun of yourself and others, then our horn horns Anatoly and Innokentiy will suit you. The lingering sounds “fa-fa” and “fo-fo” can be made several times in a row.
- You are an elegant person and you have a very stylish city bike. Definitely, you need a Crane call. Spring-loaded Suzu, Suzu mini or Karen drums. Japanese classic in four different colors of brass. gold, silver, matt silver and copper. Beauty and nothing else. In addition, they have an incredibly clear and loud ringing, while pleasant to hearing.
- You have a grandfather’s bike, a very beautiful old school Startshoy. Of course, you want to install a classic retro bell, but you don’t want to give money for half the frame. Your option. brass bell Estet. The ringing is a little quieter than that of the Crane, but at the same time it is more budgetary.
- You have some kind of completely unusual bike, brewed especially for you somewhere in the fashionable province of Japan. Or you are going to a bicycle lover’s birthday party and want to please him with something original. Your choice. Crane Hand Painted. These calls are hand-painted by charming Japanese women, so each call is unique in its own way. A deep and lingering ringing reminds that this is also a bell, and not just a work of art.
- If you are a connoisseur of the classics, and the sound of the dinner bell instills in you a special self-confidence, then the classic ding-dong bell will be your friend and the perfect ring. Moderately large and moderately compact, chrome-plated and with double ringing din and don.
- If you like to match everything, play with colors, just want to revive your bike with a bright spot or want to support a Russian manufacturer, choose the call it`s my! Bike. We have been painting these calls for the third year in a secret aerospace laboratory and every year we are improving the painting technology and expanding the range of colors. In the 2016 season, each call will be packed in a beautiful box, so it will become a self-sufficient gift for a cyclist. The bonus will be a crown hidden under a layer of paint (not particularly noticeable to others, but pleasant for you) and a sweet ear from childhood ringing “tink-tink”. Such a call is well suited not only for city bikes, but also for mountain bikes.
We immediately answer the question that some opponents of passers-by have asked: we have not had, do not and will not have pneumatic horns, we love pedestrians and do not want to scare and deafen them.
And remember that if instead of a road you find yourself on a bicycle on a sidewalk or in another crowded place, respect pedestrians and use the bell in an emergency and extremely delicately. Thank you!
How to ride a cyclist so as not to get a fine
How to ride a cyclist so as not to get a fine
The bicycle boom in the Belarusian capital began several years ago. Of course, Minsk. not Copenhagen, but all cyclists in the world have one thing in common: the requirement to comply with the traffic rules of their countries
Can a cyclist ride on the road?
If there is no cycle path, the cyclist must move along the sidewalk or footpath, while not creating obstacles to pedestrians.
If there are no bike paths, sidewalks and pedestrian zones nearby. you need to drive along the side of the road or along the edge of the carriageway. BUT! Firstly, you can drive no further than one meter from the right edge of the carriageway. You can drive more than one meter only to avoid an obstacle and, in permitted cases, turn left or make a U-turn. Secondly, if there is an asphalt shoulder on the road, separated from the main carriageway by a solid white or yellow line, you need to drive without crossing the line.
At what age can you ride a bike on the road??
You can ride at any age in pedestrian and residential areas, sidewalks, cycle paths or footpaths. But to go on the road unaccompanied by an adult is possible only from the age of 14.
Riding a bicycle on a pedestrian crossing is prohibited. The cyclist must stop, get off the bike and roll it in his hands on the zebra. Exception: green bike rides. places marked with special green markings. These are already being made in Minsk.
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But it must be borne in mind that, according to the rules, intersections are not places where the cycle path crosses the road. It is not necessary to get off the bike here, but you need to give way to all transport that crosses the bike path.
In the dark, as well as in conditions of insufficient visibility, for example, in fog, according to the rules on a bicycle, a lantern with a white light should be lit in front, and in the back. with red. The use of other light elements (reflective vests, reflectors, flickers, etc.) is not regulated in traffic rules, but experienced cyclists advise to have them. It’s the same with helmets.
“When driving on the sidewalk, stay close to the roadway.”
Chairman of the Board of the Minsk Cycling Society Yevgeny Khoruzhy shared his advice with the readers of Komsomolskaya Pravda.
If we are driving on the road and need to make a maneuver or go around an obstacle (for example, a parked car), we do this. First, we show with our hand that we are turning, hold our hand for a few seconds, look back and only then turn, making sure that the path is clear. Be careful when driving around standing cars. the door may suddenly open in them.
The bell will help warn pedestrians of their arrival. If you do this in advance, it will be much easier to ride on the sidewalk. try it!
When crossing courtyard exits, keep in mind that visibility in these areas is often limited and some car drivers may be inattentive. Therefore, control the situation and slow down if it seems to you that the driver may not notice you or simply will not miss you.
When driving on the sidewalk, keep to the side closest to the carriageway. So it will be calmer for you and for pedestrians. This is a general rule of thumb for bike lanes because pedestrians often enter buildings along the street and cross the road in much fewer places.
If you go around an obstacle blocking your visibility. slow down and stay away from it as far as possible so as not to knock down a pedestrian or cyclist who has exited from a corner. Avoid pedestrians too close, so you will not scare them and collide if someone suddenly steps to the side.
AT THIS TIME Drunk riding a bike faces a 75 fine
Cyclist. full-fledged road user. Therefore, responsibility for violations is the same as that of car drivers.
For violation of traffic rules, a cyclist can be punished with a fine of up to 450 thousand rubles. If the offending cyclist is drunk or high, or he refused to be examined, the fine will be from 450 to 750 thousand rubles. But they cannot take the car away from a drunk cyclist, even if they catch him in this state several times: cyclists do not fall under the law on confiscation.
If the violation of the cyclist (albeit “sober”) led to the creation of an emergency. fine from 450 thousand to 1.2 million.
Well, if as a result of an accident, property is damaged or the victim receives slight bodily injury, the fine can reach 3 million rubles. The same punishment threatens a cyclist who left the scene of an accident.
In Europe punished for walking on a bike path
In all European countries, the bicycle has every right to be on the road. Yevgeny Horuzhy, chairman of the board of the Minsk Cycling Society, told “Komsomolskaya Pravda”. over, in many countries, cycling on the sidewalk is prohibited, and you can be fined for this for a rather large amount. Belarus is the only country I know where cyclists are actually equated with pedestrians, which leads to a large number of conflicts and controversial situations.
In some countries it is allowed to drive on sidewalks, in some. allowed a left turn on a multi-lane road (this is a rather dangerous maneuver that requires an appropriate infrastructure and driving culture for road users). Cyclists are often allowed to overtake standing or slow-moving vehicles on the right side with caution.
Pedestrians can only enter the bike path as a last resort. if it is not possible to walk on the sidewalk, if it is impossible to move on the sidewalk, be careful and do not interfere with cyclists. Unfortunately, we do not punish pedestrians for being on the bike path.
According to the Belarusian rules, electric bicycles are equated to mopeds, which means that the rights of the AM category are needed. But the traffic rules of European countries refer such transport to ordinary bicycles, however, subject to certain conditions.
In addition, the rules of most European countries provide for signs that can be used to allow oncoming traffic of cyclists on one-way roads (a popular solution for the central streets of many cities).
How to properly shift gears on a bike?
Gear shifting is one of the main mechanical functions of your bike. Choosing the right gear for a particular section of the road will not only increase your efficiency, but also make the trip more comfortable and save energy on long routes.
The recommendations below are not relevant for planetary gearshift systems that can also be shifted on the spot.
There are a few simple rules that we recommend you follow:
1) Shift gears only while driving, while you pedal and drive the transmission.
2) When changing gear, the chain must not be too tight. In this case, transmission breakdowns are possible until the chain breaks.
3) We do not recommend jumping over several gears at once. It all depends on the level of the switch itself and the general state of the transmission, but in any case, we advise beginners to shift gears consistently.
4) Try not to skew the chain if your bike has a front derailleur.
Below is a diagram to guide you when shifting gears if your bike has a front derailleur.
For the convenience of the cyclist, some rear derailleurs are marked with the correspondence of the position of the rear derailleur to the position of the chainring to avoid chain distortion.
Chain misalignment can adversely affect gear shifting and can lead to rapid wear on the bike’s drivetrain. In fact, if the bike has 3 stars in the front and 9 in the back, this means that you can choose any of the 27 speeds. But it is not recommended to use all speeds in a row. Remember the phrase by the artist Charles Monroe Schultz: “Life is like a bicycle with ten gears. We all have programs that we don’t use. ” What’s more, in today’s bicycle industry, bigger doesn’t always mean better or faster.
There is a tendency among modern bicycle equipment manufacturers to provide a bike with a large gear range with a small number of sprockets. So, for example, a modern transmission with one chainring at the front and 12 at the rear completely covers the range with 3 stars at the front and 9 at the rear, not to mention the outdated groups with 6-8 stars on the rear wheel. As a rule, with fewer sprockets, the transmission is more convenient to operate, maintain and adjust, and also has less weight.
Remember one rule: there is NO perfect gear, switch! We often see people spend too much energy climbing a steep incline on a small rear sprocket, as if trying to break the cranks. Or the rapid flashing of the feet of cyclists riding downhill in too light gear. Your goal while riding should be to maintain rhythm (the speed at which your pedals go through a full revolution) as much as possible. The cadence is called cadence. You need to monitor it and maintain it in a certain range. For professionals, it starts at 80 rpm. This is necessary not only in order to maintain the drivetrain, but also for the health of your own knees. We recommend switching frequently to improve efficiency while riding.
Removing and installing tires
Tire breakdown on the move is an unpleasant phenomenon that can be found anywhere. Can even lower at home. You can’t ride, you have to change the camera, tire or all together. For a solution to the problem, you can contact the service, but in addition to money for a new consumable, they will also take on work. And why spend extra money and strain the master, when all the manipulations for removing and installing tires can be done independently? Let’s take a look at how to disassemble a bicycle wheel and assemble a tire. You will also have to remove the tires and put them back on when straightening the rim or replacing the spokes.
For work, you will need special plastic assemblies or two small shoe spoons. It is undesirable to use screwdrivers, as they can damage the rim.
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- Fully deflate the tire (if removed to repair the rim, not replace).
- On the opposite side to the nipple, pry off the bead of the tire with assemblies and fasten them to the spokes. The distance between the blades is at least 20 cm. With the third assembly hook up the bead in the middle and pull it out of the rim.
- Remove the assemblies and pull the tire off the wheel. If there are only two blades, we fix one, the other is carried along the board, pulling it out.
- Pull the nipple out of the bore. On some models, it can be attached with an additional nut, then we twist it.
Now, when there is a new kit or the wheel is repaired, you need to put the tire back on, or fence:
- Pump up the chamber to 0.5 atm so that it takes a rounded shape and does not break.
- Insert the nipple into the hole, the chamber on the surface of the rim. It is important that it fits exactly the size of the wheel.
- Compress the tire beads and insert from the nipple side.
- Sequentially distribute the edges around the entire circumference with your hands.
- It will take some effort on the opposite side to push the bead down.
- Inflate the tire to the correct pressure and place the wheel on the bike.
It’s so easy to bend the wheel with your own hands.
How to remove and change a wheel on a bicycle
Bicycle wheels are mounted on the frame: front. on the dropouts of the fork, the rear. on the dropouts of the feathers. Repair, cleaning and lubrication may require removal. There is no need to roll the bike to the service for this occasion, since everyone can remove the wheel from the bike right at home.
Why do you need to dismantle the wheels? As a rule, these are bulkheads of bushings, repair of spokes and rims, cleaning a bicycle and the notorious replacement of tires.
Removing the front wheel with rim brakes
Place the bike upside down on the saddle and handlebars before removing the wheel. Beforehand, all accessories. mirrors, headlights, bell, decorative elements. should be removed so as not to interfere with work and so as not to damage them. It is advisable to put a soft cloth under the sensitive shifters to avoid damaging them under the weight of the bike.
Briefly, the front wheel is removed according to the scheme:
- Release the rim brakes.
- Loosen the attachment to the dropouts.
- Carefully remove the axle from the legs.
It is necessary to release the brakes in order to easily pull out the wheel and not damage the system. To do this, squeeze the connecting bow and unscrew its fastening with a hex wrench. The brakes are now free. An alternative option is to remove the pads from the brake mechanism, however, after assembling the wheel, they will have to be adjusted again.
Wheel fastening on a bicycle is presented in two versions. nuts for 15 and an eccentric. To remove the axle from the dropouts on the nuts, you will need two keys. one will act as a worker, and the other as a retainer. Unscrew one nut counterclockwise while holding the opposite.
What can you use? Traditional open-end or spanner wrenches. The second option is even more convenient and easier to grab the nut. Adjustable wrenches with wide lips are not recommended for work, as they can “eat” the corners of the nuts.
With an eccentric, it is much easier. loosen the bolt and raise the locking lever. If the spring is not weak enough and the lever does not rise fully, loosen the bolt harder. Actually, removing a wheel at home is as easy as shelling pears.
In this section, the topic of removal with V-brakes was touched upon. With discs it is even easier, and even more so with singlespeeds with a kick drum on the rear hub. There is one limitation for a disc braking system with hydraulics. do not keep the bike upside down for too long, as the tubes become airy. That is, the wheel was removed and the bike was returned to its normal state for the time of repair or other manipulations.
How to properly install the wheel and tighten the mount
The installation process in its rightful place is strictly opposite to dismantling:
- Taking into account the direction of rotation “forward”, insert the axle into the dropouts.
- Adjust position (for rear).
- Tighten nuts or eccentric.
On a bicycle, wheels are put on only with tires, otherwise it will not work to put the tires on the rims. “Forward” on an inverted bike. backward, look at the top. Arrow, feet and other pointers should point in this direction.
On rear dropouts, the axle position relative to the chainring may fluctuate, and its distance affects chain tension. The optimal position is the one recommended by the manufacturer, “all the way”. It should be noted that the dropout adjustment of the rear wheel is valid for models with one gear and planetary bicycles.
Tighten the nuts. Sometimes the mounts are equipped with additional washers-stoppers against axle rotation. If the manufacturer foresees this, we must put them. Next, the nuts on both sides are thrown by hand. Again we take two keys: on one side the nut is fixed, on the other side it is screwed on. Then we go to the other side and tighten the mount all the way. The technical data sheet for the bike indicates the tightening torques for the fasteners. Following these guidelines will ensure uniform force distribution and optimal geometric integrity.
- Set axle to dropouts.
- Turn the bolt clockwise.
- Press the lever and fix the eccentric.
The locking lever should move with some effort and be free to lower to the end. If it folds too easily, you need to tighten the bolt, does not fall. loosen.
The wheel removal procedure is the first step to fixing rim defects and replacing tires on a bicycle. Changing tires or temporarily removing them with your own hands is just as easy, just take a little space and time.
Dream interpretation. Sister
Seeing a sister in a dream means unforeseen difficulties, chores and worries. If in a dream you and your sister quarrel, this portends the collapse of all hopes for the future, the promise of an unrealizable.
If you dream that you are saying goodbye to your sister, this means that a period is coming in your life when you can rely solely on your own strengths, without waiting for help from outside. The dream in which you see your dying sister promises you a deterioration in your financial situation.
If in a dream you see your half-sister, then this means that in your life there comes a period when everyone has a desire to advise you and be interested in your affairs, actively intervene in your affairs.
By the way, the famous archaeologist G. Gilprecht for a long time could not read the scattered ancient Sumerian text on two fragments of agate found during excavations. This find was mentioned in a book that he had just written and which was to be taken to the publisher the next day.
However, without deciphering the ancient Sumerian inscription, the text of the book turned out to be incomplete. Therefore, Gilprecht sat in his office the day before, until late hours, fruitlessly sorting out and comparing various versions of translations of this inscription. The archaeologist did not notice how he dozed off in his chair.
In a dream, he saw a middle-aged man wearing ancient Sumerian priestly robes, who was standing next to him. At the sight of this man, Gilprecht was surprised, hurriedly got up, but not from an armchair, but from some stone step, on which he was sitting.
The man ordered the archaeologist to follow him, promising to help him. Although the stranger did not speak at all in the ancient Sumerian dialect, but in English, this did not surprise the sleeping Gilprecht at all. The scientist and the priest walked for a short time along some deserted street, passed several huge buildings, located quite close to each other. Gilprecht and his strange companion entered one of these massive houses, which seemed larger than the others. They found themselves in a hall with low light. When Gilprecht asked where they were, the guide answered that they were in Nipur, between the Tigris and the Euphrates, in the temple of Bel, the father of the gods.
The archaeologist knew about this temple. During the excavations, it was not possible to find the treasury. a room that, as scientists knew, was located at the temple. When the scientist asked his guide with a similar question, he silently took him to a small room in the back of the temple.
In this room, in a wooden chest, there were several pieces of agate, among which were the two pieces found during excavations. The priest said that these pieces are parts of a cylinder donated by the ruler of the temple Kurigalzu. The cylinder was sawn to make ear ornaments for the statue of the god, and one piece shattered. On it were the inscriptions that were part of the whole text. At the request of the archaeologist, the priest read this text dating back to 1300 BC. e. The awakened Gilprecht recorded his dream and the exact transcript of the text.
Cycling with my sister
Dream Interpretation On a bicycle with your sister dreamed of why in a dream On a bicycle with your sister? To select the interpretation of a dream, enter the keyword from your dream into the search form or click on the initial letter of the image characterizing the dream (if you want to get an online interpretation of dreams by letter for free alphabetically).
Now you can find out what it means to see in a dream On a bike with your sister by reading below for free interpretation of dreams from the best online dream books of the House of the Sun!
Dream interpretation. Bike, great
A bicycle, like any complex mechanism, is a symbolic representation of the male genitals, and cycling means sexual intercourse.
Cycling on rough or overgrown terrain symbolizes the joys of healthy and regular sex.
Cycling on a flat and smooth road means no problems in the genital area and in the near future they are not expected.
Riding a bike on roads that lead to dead ends means that you get the greatest pleasure from intercourse in your dreams, but in real life you are timid and contact with the opposite sex scares you.
Cycling across a bridge means a quick change of sexual partner.
Repairing a bike means seeking immediate sexual contact with your partner.
Dream interpretation. Bicycle
If in a dream you rode a bicycle, sexual relations that are not typical for you are possible. Fell off the bike. soon fail in sex.
Cycling uphill. you have bright prospects.
Going down. take care of your good name and health.
To configure it, you can use the following method. Sit on your bike and bend your knees almost completely to find a suitable height. The saddle can be secured with a wrench. Saddle type and height affect the pelvic organs, so it should be comfortable.
When cranking the pedals, the thighs should not go to the sides, the leg should freely, without much effort, press the pedals. The saddle slope is individually adjustable and is not changed by most cyclists. After the first ride, you will feel in which position your back will be more comfortable.
Its geometry and position are essential for a correct fit as they play an important role in weight distribution. Too much lowering of the steering wheel is not good for posture. However, it should not be higher than the saddle. Otherwise, the control will be fuzzy. The handlebars are straight, suitable for quiet or short trips, or curved. for athletes, mountain sports enthusiasts. Also, curved handlebars are used on some road bicycles, they are well suited for people with osteochondrosis.
All these factors, to one degree or another, affect the cyclist’s posture, should be taken into account when learning to ride a bike and during the first ride.
When traveling by bike over any distance, it is desirable to have certain attributes.
- Helmet. Protects you from injury. He should not dangle on his head or squeeze it. Make sure you adjust it to fit your head before riding.
- Cycling shorts. Clothes of this or similar type are indispensable when traveling long distances.
- Gloves. They will help to avoid the appearance of calluses. Closed gloves provide extra warmth in cold weather. Fingerless gloves are available for the summer.
- Glasses. Protect not only from the sun, but also from the wind.
- Call. So you can quickly and without yelling warn pedestrians that you need to pass.
Features of landing on different types of bicycles
The road bike is chosen for city or highway travel, while developing the highest possible speeds. Landing on such a bike has a number of features that are related to its tuning. Only by doing it right will you be able to sit comfortably on the road bike, revealing all its charms.
Don’t be surprised if the handlebars on a road bike are set lower than on a regular bike. In the initial stages, it can be raised slightly to get used to the bike faster.
When riding road and racing bikes, the body is tilted forward (closer to the horizontal position), when riding a city bike, road bike, the back is almost vertical.
Thus, the entire load is borne by the saddle. If you feel uncomfortable riding in this position, try lowering the handlebars a little. This will create a slight tilt angle, and the body will take the correct position.
When riding a mountain (cross-country) bike, you should redistribute the weight between the wheels. This is necessary to comfortably overcome all kinds of obstacles: mud, ravines, puddles. By moving the body back and forth, the weight can be effectively distributed. For example, when descending, it is better to lean back a little, and, conversely, when going up, you should lean towards the steering wheel.
With a low upwind position and when descending a mountain, riding is easier. the body is tilted forward at an angle of 45 degrees. A straight steering wheel can interfere. it is not very suitable for maneuvers.
Separate from the saddle when overcoming obstacles such as curbs, roots, depressions and other bumps in the road. This is necessary not only in order not to break the bike, but also in order not to harm your health and not cause injury.
A folding bike is a lightweight bike that can be folded compactly. The folding is usually large with a low frame and small wheels, some models even have a motor. With this type of transport, it is easier to navigate the metro. Sit on a folding bike in the same way as on a road.
The landing of cyclists-racers is characterized by the desire to reduce air resistance as much as possible and, accordingly, to develop maximum speed. Special curved rudders were created especially for them. The driver looks at the road a little sullenly. The higher the speed, the more the body approaches the horizontal position. And vice versa. Low speed is associated with the adoption of a vertical position.
The dressing bike was created specifically for participation in cycling and differs from the usual road bike in the following parameters:
- frame geometry;
- the shape of the pipes;
- big gears;
The difference in landing on a dressing bike is less inclination, that is, the cyclist sits closer to the vertical axis.
Some road and Cruiser bikes have an upward curved handlebar. This is done so that the back can take an upright position.
At low speeds, the back muscles do not get tired. Problems begin with vertical landing if you drive distances of 50 km or more per day.
If you have to travel long distances every day, we recommend doing some simple exercises to warm up the muscles of the shoulders and back before and after the trip.
Pain in the legs is associated with an excessively high seating position. However, they can appear with a low fit. All of the above tips are general in nature. Knowing these basic principles will make it easier for you to customize your bike. Don’t be afraid to experiment. comfort is very important when riding.
What should be?
The correct position when cycling is the key to good posture. Let’s take a closer look at how to sit on a bike.
- Hands. Place them on the shifters. If you have a derailleur, your fingers should be easy to reach. The approximate angle between arms and torso is 90 degrees.
- The pelvis. To avoid injury and posture problems, this issue should be given sufficient attention. Sitting on the bike should be comfortable. Best of all, the leather saddle changes for its owner. It may be a little uncomfortable at first, but this feeling will pass over time.
- Knees and elbows. They should not touch. Otherwise, your arms and legs will be bruised. The more speed the cyclist develops, the more he bends his elbows. This is clearly seen in bicycle races, when the participants are almost lying on the handlebars.
The normal function of the muscles of the legs, back and neck depends on how correctly you sit on the bike, spending whole hours on it while riding. They don’t have to be tense.
For a comfortable fit, athletes, like all men, due to their anatomical features, acquire narrow saddles. Women choose wide saddles as they are more comfortable for girls.
For a more complete understanding of correct posture, refer to the diagram.
- When riding a bike, it is important to be able to pedal correctly, softening the bumps in the road.
- The back needs to be slightly bent, but it should not sag. Strong bending will lead to hunched and overstrained muscles.
- Bend your elbows a little and keep in this position.
- If the shoulders are directed slightly forward, the weight will be evenly distributed between the upper and lower body.
Of course, at first the landing will be unusual, for a long time you will not ride in this position. But over time, if the bike is correctly selected and adjusted, you will get used to it, and riding with the correct posture will be a pleasure.
In addition to human factors, the correct fit is also influenced by those that depend on the bike, namely the frame, saddle and handlebars.
Buying a bike with a high frame is not recommended due to the inconvenience of controlling the steering wheel. You will have to reach out to him, which will affect your posture. Also, on a steep descent, you will need to break away from the saddle. The frame of the optimal height should be determined before the purchase, since you will not be able to change it later. It is best if you choose a bike in the shoes in which you are going to ride.
Correct fit on the bike
The bicycle is a popular means of transportation both among sports people and among lovers of measured trips around the city. The correct fit ensures that there are no health problems. In this article, we’ll walk you through how to sit when riding mountain, road and city bikes.
Improper seating on a bicycle is stressful, exhausting and harmful to health. Let’s consider several options for mistakes that are made most often.
- Among people who are starting to master a new type of transport, you can often find cyclists with the wrong grip. For example, do not twist your wrists forward or backward and downward.
- When the center of gravity of the body is shifted towards the steering wheel, hands can become numb. This is due to their overload. To avoid this, you can replace the handlebars or move the saddle back.
- Leakage occurs due to an incorrectly selected saddle. Too narrow squeezes blood flow in the muscles and leads to numbness in the limbs. Knee pain can occur when sitting too high.
- Do not keep your arms or legs straight when passing obstacles. One wrong move and problems are assured.
- Do not focus on the front wheel. It is better to always look ahead. Even if at first it is difficult to do, you need to try to control this moment. A good fit increases your horizons.
So, we have found that the correct seating position while cycling plays an important role. For each type of bike, it has its own differences. Do not forget about your health, and cycling will be beneficial and enjoyable.
For information on how to properly adjust the fit on a bike, see the next video.
First of all, I would like to say that although the descents are a lot of pleasure, it is worth knowing how to pass them correctly. Otherwise, you can harm your health. It is not superfluous, and even necessary, to purchase appropriate protection in order to remain safe and sound in the event of a fall. In this case, a helmet and gloves are mandatory attributes of a biker. Starting our conversation about the technique of passing the slopes, I would like to return again to the example of a runner. If you have never seen a runner descend from a mountain, then you can try to escape from a hill yourself. Feel how you intuitively tilt your upper body back, how your hands help you maintain balance. Naturally, if you tilted your body forward at this moment, you would certainly fly head over heels. In the passage of descents, it is worth remembering this example in order to correctly choose the position of your body on the bike. Naturally, you shouldn’t stay in the saddle while you descend. If you rest imposingly in the saddle, you risk experiencing the joy of flying through the steering wheel with all the ensuing consequences. It is very important to remember that the center of gravity while going downhill is approximately in the area of the front wheel, and at the first bump, the rear wheel can easily come off the ground if you remain seated. But at the same time, if you unload the front wheel too much by moving too far back, then you will deprive it of traction. How do you find the correct body position on the bike? Of course, it’s worth pushing your butt back. But the question is, how far should you move away? Most publications advise you to push back as much as possible. But as we said, this can lead to the fact that our front wheel will constantly go off course due to bumps. Therefore, it is worth moving back just as much as the steep descent. If the descent is not too steep, and you have moved back as much as possible, then it is likely that when you ride through the holes, the front wheel will be very unstable, because you have deprived it of the necessary load from above. And if there are also turns on the descent, then it will be very difficult for you to direct the front wheel where you need to. It is also important to know how to choose the correct position of your hands on the steering wheel. After all, how far your arms are bent at the elbows determines how far you move back in the saddle. On the steepest descents, it is worth relieving the front wheel as much as possible. At this point, you can move back so that your arms are straight. Don’t be afraid to lean back so that your belly is over the saddle. On moderate slopes, position your body on the bike with your shoulders 90 degrees to the downhill trail. Still, you should find exactly this position of your hands when they will be least tense. Mountain biking experts call this relaxed, “floating arms” position. Feeling light in your hands, you will be able to better pass not only descents, but also turns. It is also worth considering that if you keep the pedals at 6 and 12 o’clock, you risk hitting hard with your foot on stones that will meet in your path, so you need to position the pedals so that the cranks are parallel to the ground. One of the most important things to keep in mind when going downhill is the correct use of the brakes. If your cycling experience is short, then it is worthwhile to postpone the fast descents. First you need to get a good feel for your brakes. Most mountain bikes today have quite powerful brakes. The problem is, if you block the wheel while braking, you will fly over the steering wheel. V-break brakes are especially easy to lock. Disc brakes have more modulation. Some people think that it is not necessary to use the front brake when going downhill. Far from it! Try the following experiment without getting on your bike: Roll the bike forward and apply the rear brake until the wheel locks. What’s happening? The bike can still be rolled, unless the rear tire wears off. Now try rolling your bike with the front brake and the rear brake released. The bike stops. The fact is that the front brake is more effective than the rear brake. It’s just silly not to use it on the slopes. If you use only the rear brake on descents, then you will not be able to effectively brake, and if you want to increase braking, you will block the rear wheel, which will lead to a skid. It goes without saying that it is the front brake that can get you in trouble if you use it incorrectly. All mountain bike publications advise you to use BOTH brakes anytime, anywhere. The only question is HOW to do it. Remember, the harder you brake, the more you will be pulled forward. This means that you need to strongly rest your feet on the pedals to stay in the “behind the saddle” position. Once you have found the correct body position on the bike, you can use both the rear and front brakes. Naturally, you need to feel good especially the front brake, because its use depends on whether you stay in the saddle or outrun the bike, “spreading your wings like a falcon.” The rear brake also needs to be used skillfully. If you overbrake with the rear brake, you will start drifting, which is also undesirable when going downhill. By not using the brakes on the “sausage,” as bikers simply call root and dimple slopes, you enable your fork to handle bumps better. By braking, you reduce the travel of the fork, its operation will no longer be so perfect. At the same time, it is worth remembering that if you brake in technical areas, you run the risk of blocking the wheel. over, the risk of blocking the wheel is greater here than when braking on gentle slopes without stones and potholes. Therefore, it is better to slow down on simple sections of the descent, but on technical sections it is better not to use the brakes. As a last resort, if you want to slow down, then this should be done before you pass the bumps. If you apply the brake while passing a hole or pothole, then your chances of flying over the steering wheel are almost one hundred percent. Another practical point: By shifting to a higher gear, you will prevent the chain from bouncing against the frame. At the same time, you will be able to use a more profitable and convenient calculation of stars. Your gaze should not be directed to the ground, but forward to track the upcoming technical sections of the track. This will help you to slow down at will before passing technical sections. And, of course, it is worth remembering the psychological side of the descent. If you get scared, you will certainly lose control of the bike. Excessive fear will make your knees tremble and your arms weak. You will not be able to control the bike well by following the rapidly changing terrain and direction of the trail. Remember, as long as you have faith in yourself, you can stay in control of the bike. Now let’s discuss an equally interesting question, which seems to be quite simple compared to the previous two: the passage of technically difficult turns on a mountain bike.
Mountain bike climbing technique
Personally, I have always found it interesting to climb. When I got my first mountain bike, I was a little disappointed that I was using it for a different purpose, riding more in the city. However, the day soon came when I had a chance, together with my friend, who already had the experience of participating in races, to go towards a nearby village, which was teeming with beautiful hills. There you could practice and feel the beauty of a mountain bike in his native environment. Immediately upon arrival, we began to storm the first hill, which was of medium steepness. My friend did it very well. I failed all my attempts to conquer this seemingly not very steep hill. Either my rear wheel slipped, then the front wheel came off the ground, then I did not have enough pressure on the pedals so that after a while I was no longer able to twist and, finally exhausted, I stopped driving, and after that I walked up the hill, driving bike with you. Of course, I wondered how my friend was able to overcome this rise so deftly, and he shared some secrets with me. In essence, all climbing technique is reduced to observance of physical laws, which allows you to successfully distribute body weight on the bike and continue to move forward to the top. But before we talk about weight distribution, let’s not forget to mention that just before lifting, you must select the exact gear that would allow you not to slip on one side (if you chose too low a gear) and on the other. not lose all your strength in the middle of the climb (when you have chosen an overly high gear). Do not change gears when you have already started to climb the hill, as you risk breaking your rear derailleur. As a last resort, if the ascent is not very steep, then you can try to switch to one gear, raising or lowering it (do not try to switch up or down two gears at once, otherwise you will completely “kill” your transmission). You need to switch so that at the time of switching to another gear, there is no great pressure on the pedals. It is only necessary to smoothly accompany the pedals at the moment of switching. But again, I repeat that you need to switch before overcoming the rise. So, having chosen the desired calculation of stars, you are ready to start overcoming the slide. Let’s talk about your position on the bike, which would be desirable to successfully climb the mountain. For some reason, when we run up a hill without a bike, we intuitively distribute our weight correctly so as not to stop in the middle of the rise. On a bicycle, we should only adopt the principles by which we distribute body weight when we run uphill. Running uphill, we tilt our body forward, our arms work more hard, the head is pressed more to the neck than usual, the legs push hard from the ground, almost all the leg muscles are involved: the load falls on the calf muscles, as well as on the ankle, which is unbending. provides a successful lift, thigh muscles that add power. The same weight distribution principles apply to uphill cycling. Pulling the steering wheel up too hard will cause the front wheel to lift off the ground. As a result, you will stop and you will overcome the rest of the ascent already on foot (although stopping on the ascent is not a reason to give up, we will talk about this a little below). And at the same time, choosing too easy a calculation (transmission), you risk starting to slip with the rear wheel, which will also lead to a loss of energy and stop on the rise. It is possible to overcome the rise, being in one of two positions: sitting and standing. Climbing the hill while sitting, you need to understand for yourself that you need to pull the steering wheel not up, but back, that is, towards the abdomen. It is also necessary to bend the arms more at the elbows to bring the head closer to the stem. This will transfer some weight to the front wheel, preventing it from lifting off the ground. Better yet, if you can pull the handlebars down a bit, give it a try! If you position your shoulders at a 90-degree angle to the climb path, you can even better distribute the weight on the bike for more traction. To increase traction and pedal pressure, you need to shift your body weight slightly to the front of the saddle. This position will allow you to comfortably overcome not too steep, but long climbs. At the same time, this position will allow you to evenly screw into the hill. over, uniform screwing is one of the main components of a successful climb. The main mistake of many riders is uneven pedaling, when the biker turns too slowly, then suddenly almost completely slows down the pedaling due to lack of strength, then, starting to turn while standing, loads the pedals with all his weight, which leads to slipping. Correctly selected gear and smooth twisting without pauses will allow you to continue to climb to the top. It’s okay if you have an easy calculation and sit up the hill. The main thing is that pedaling is continuous. If the pedaling is intermittent, it will certainly lead to a stop. When you feel that you can no longer cope with pedaling while seated, this often happens on very steep and long climbs, move on to standing. However, this also requires a certain skill. It is also important here not to pause in pedaling. Just pushing the pedals down while resting when the pedals are at the six and nine o’clock positions can also lead to a stall on the ascent. Pulling the pedals straight up from the six o’clock position will only allow you to use the clipless pedals. But you can walk a little bit with the normal, non-contact pedals when they are at the six o’clock position, towards the nine o’clock position. You just need to practice on flat areas. Try to follow the pedal along its entire path of movement, although this will not work without the contact pedals, still strive to do this using even conventional pedals. Try to mentally connect different muscles of the legs to work, deliberately distributing your effort on them. This will help you get tired less on the rise. Remember that when you spin while standing, you will transfer more pressure to the pedals than when riding while sitting. Therefore, it is worth switching up one gear if the steepness of the climb allows. If there are horns on the handlebars, use them effectively. If you are in a standing position and have a good weight on the front wheel, it is possible to pull the horns up, but if possible use a rear thrust on the horns. Standing riding finds its use on very steep climbs and on jumps, areas where the steepness of the climb increases sharply. Standing also allows you to stay in the center of the bike when you need it most. It is also important to maintain balance here, because if you shift your weight too much, you will start to slip, and if you move too far back from the center position, the front wheel will definitely come off the ground. By placing the weight in the center of the bike, you also prevent the front wheel from wandering. If you keep your balance well on the pedals, then you will clearly go to your goal without unnecessary wobbling. You need to stand on the pedals with your knees bent as much as possible, this will increase the grip of the wheels with the surface. You need to stand without stretching out in line, but as low as possible. Here you also need to bend your elbows well so that your chest is directly above the steering wheel. Just don’t overdo it, or you risk losing traction on the trail. Still, if your strength allows you, stay in the saddle as much as you can during the climb. This is a better position, especially if you are using platform pedals rather than clipless pedals. The transition to standing riding usually shows that the rider is going uphill on his last legs, and he will soon run out of strength. However, in the final part of the climb, the use of standing riding is very justified, since it is at these moments that the forces end. Still, it is possible to save strength if you do not strain those muscles that are not involved in overcoming the rise at all. You yourself can determine exactly how you should relax. Once you’ve selected a specific cadence (cadence), stick to that dynamic tempo. If the ascent is very exhausting and protracted, then try alternating the sitting position with the standing position. There is one more secret that helps to overcome the most prolonged climbs with changing steepness. Some try to storm the climb as quickly as possible, however, when the climb ends or when such bikers encounter steeper sections, their strength no longer allows them to go further. The secret is not to try to climb as quickly as possible. Sometimes it is wise to drive up the hill slowly. Then you can save the necessary strength. The main thing here, as you already understood, is a constant pace that you must adhere to. And you can always accelerate at the end of the ascent, if you have enough strength. It is much better than starting a brave rush up, and ending Sturm Mountains half-dead, so then you have to leave for a while. Choose your bike path well, avoid uneven areas that contain rocks and potholes. Distribute your breath evenly. Remember that it is imperative for the cyclist, as well as for the runner, to breathe correctly. Deep and even breathing will allow you to go to your goal progressively and without unnecessary jerks. And finally, a little psychological moment: to make the climb easier to overcome, focus your gaze on your goal. If you look at the top and convince yourself that you will soon reach it, then this will be so. But if you look only at the ground, then this will not give you an additional incentive. Make the climb fun and maintain the pace you have taken. Then you will succeed. If for some reason you stopped on the way to your goal, then this is not a reason to peacefully walk up the hill on foot. You can try to take the start again, although it will be much more difficult to do this than on a flat surface. Therefore, the bike should be positioned sideways in relation to the ascent path. Once you start, you can put the bike in the right direction again. Training is an important aspect of achieving success in climbing an uphill. As you train, you can try to apply all of these tips, get a feel for the bike and balance, which is a little more difficult to maintain when climbing. Now let’s talk about the passage of those sections of the track that make our heart beat faster, about the slopes we all love.
Mountain biking technique.
I will allow myself to touch on the topic of riding a bike, which will be of interest to those riders who have already ceased to be content with “mattress pokatushki” and who are beginning to be interested in the technique of overcoming descents, ascents and turns, as well as other similar issues.
Indeed, these questions are worth considering, as an evolving rider certainly wants to master some important riding techniques that will make his riding even more exciting and interesting.
Indeed, everything seems quite simple from the outside, when you watch how another biker easily goes through turns, as if there is nothing complicated about it. Particularly impressive is the way downhillers do it, which go through 90-degree corners with almost no loss of speed. What is the secret to efficient cornering? This question is especially interesting for those who participate in races or simply love high-speed pokatushki. Cornering technique is a topic as complex as it seems simple. Even your life may depend on how familiar you are with the rules of corner entry. After all, often the mountain bike track is a narrow and winding path, on which it is very pleasant to ride quickly, as if dodging trees unexpectedly appearing in front of you. However, it is also important here to be careful and aware of how to tilt the bike correctly, choose the speed, choose the right trajectory. But let’s start our discussion of cornering techniques from the beginning: let’s talk about how to prepare for cornering. In order to prepare for a correct turn, you need to assess the very difficulty of the turn you are about to enter. Look as far in front of you as possible. this rule applies not only when you want to overcome an uphill or a good downhill, but also when you want to go through a difficult turn without falling and at the same time without losing speed. By assessing how difficult the turn is, you will be able to understand which trajectory you should take. You may be attracted by potholes and rocks in the path of cornering that you want to avoid. If you have chosen a trajectory, then now it is worth sticking to it. Trajectories can be conditionally divided into three types: internal, external and middle. At first glance, it seems that at the same speed, the turn is the fastest to go along the inner radius, however, this is not always the right decision. In practice, it often turns out that if you don’t slow down while cornering around the inside radius, you can lose control of the bike. Therefore, it is worth remembering one rule: the smaller the turning radius, the lower the speed of its passage should be. If you chose the outer trajectory, then you can safely afford to quickly go through this turn. However, the physics of cornering is such that if you go through a corner twice as fast, then the centrifugal force will act on you four times more. The centrifugal force increases with increasing speed, and this dependence obeys the law of geometric progression. All motorists know a simple rule of thumb for cornering: you need to slow down before cornering, and after passing the middle of the corner, you can start increasing the speed. On a bicycle, you need to go through turns, guided by the same rule. However, the question is: how to slow down before entering a turn? Sometimes, stopping pedaling is not enough to slow down. Some convulsively begin to brake, both before entering the turn, and at the time of its passage. However, when slowing down, it should be remembered that it is extremely important to maintain the grip of the front wheel with the road, since the quality of cornering depends on it (the grip of the front wheel). Therefore, never block the front wheel when cornering. It would be more correct to say: “Forget that you have a front brake while cornering!” If you are using the rear brake, be careful not to lock the rear wheel. Although if this happens, then just release the brake, a skid of the rear wheel is much easier to survive than a skid of the front one. It is equally important to be able to tilt the bike in the direction of the turn. If you do not know how to do this, then you will not be able to go through a turn at speed. Yes, at low speeds it is not always necessary to be able to tilt the bike in the direction of the turn, you just need to turn the steering wheel to where you need it. However, if you try to take a deep corner at high speed by turning the steering wheel, it can lead to a fall. It is also necessary to tilt the bike because in this position the front tire has much more grip on the ground and, accordingly, slips less. Of course, sometimes it’s a little scary to tilt the bike the way you need to. However, by doing this, you will go through the turn much cleaner. Only apply all these tips only when you are confident in your tires. If the turn is too steep, you can put your foot out, perhaps this will make it more comfortable for you to go through the turn, knowing that in the event of a slip you will not fall. It is also useful to remind you that the pedal, which is located on the side closest to the turn, should be in the 12 o’clock position. What’s the safest cornering option? Before entering a turn, you need to reduce the speed, keep your gaze on the selected trajectory, tilt the bike in the direction of the turn and go through the turn, adhering to the selected speed. And while it seems to be faster to go through the inside radius, we would advise you not to do so, especially in unfamiliar terrain. Do not try to show your skills to others when you are on a new track for you. Now let’s talk about the fit and weight distribution when cornering. It is no secret that on mountain bike trails the turns are very sharp and the trail is often narrow. To be successful in these technical corners, you need to know the basics of aerodynamics. It’s no secret that aerodynamics increases when a moving physical body experiences less resistance. For example, racing cars are made with a very low seating position, which increases their aerodynamics. When passing corners, you also need to take into account the laws of physics. In order to go through a high-speed corner, you need to sit very low, then your center of gravity will be lower. You need to lower everything that is possible below: head, shoulders, heels. Bend your elbows. As with descending downhills when cornering, you should maintain body balance by choosing the optimal position on the bike. What is the optimal body position? You will understand this when cornering. If the front wheel does not have enough traction, then this means that you need to shift your body weight slightly forward. In the event that you feel that the rear wheel is not stable enough, redistribute your weight back a little. The front wheel is more important when cornering, because it depends on how you enter the corner. Therefore, feel free to load it with your own weight. When distributing weight, you need to load the bike. The term “load the bike” may not be very familiar to you. To be able to load a bike means to press it into the ground when you need it, with those parts of it that are most responsible for good grip. How can you load the bike? With the efforts of your legs and arms, you can increase your actual weight on the bike, directing your efforts where necessary. This is especially necessary to do when passing technical, high-speed turns, which are unpaved paths where you can easily lose grip and go into a skid. In this case, it is necessary to be able to tilt the bike. In this case, you do not need to tilt the body, otherwise you will overload the bike. You will be loading a pedal that is external to the corner. The other leg, which is on the side closest to the bend, should be set aside in the direction of the bend. Think about where the knee of motorcyclists is heading in races. It is also necessary to load the steering wheel. This will help increase grip on the front wheel. It may seem strange to you that it is necessary to load the point of the steering wheel that is internal with respect to the turn. The outer handle will need to be pulled towards you. While it seems like it might cause skidding, remember that you are loading the pedal from the outside. This means that on the one hand, you have to put your whole body weight on the outer pedal, and on the other hand, pull the grip on the same side towards you with your hand. It is better to first try to do this on a calm track, at a low speed.