Which gears on the bike to choose

Cycling gear selection

Experienced cyclists often give advice on how to choose gears on a bike, depending on the riding conditions. For example, in a city it is recommended to choose a ratio of 1.6. Where does this number come from? The initial data for its calculation are two values ​​- the number of teeth on the front and rear sprockets of the bicycle. The main parameter of a bicycle sprocket is the number of teeth on it.

On the chainrings, the number of teeth can vary from 28 to 59. On the rear sprockets, from 9 to 23. Dividing the number of teeth on the chainring by the number of teeth on the rear chainring, we get this ratio. For example, there are 32 teeth on the front sprocket, and 20. Dividing 32 by 20, we get 1.6. That’s all the calculations. For a certain ratio, there may be several options for the selection of stars.

The speed of the bike depends on the selection of stars and the diameter of the wheels. The more teeth on the chainring and fewer teeth on the rear sprocket, the more speed the bike can achieve. Plus larger wheel diameter increases speed.

How to choose a gear on a bike

All this and much more can be calculated on the gear calculator, which is located at http://www.surplace.fr/ffgc/

Enter there the number of teeth of the stars (32 and 20) and the diameter of the wheel (26 “x 1.9” (559 x 47)). We choose the metric in kilometers and this is what we get. With such data, a coefficient of 1.6 can be obtained on pairs of stars: 29 x 18, 30 x 19, 31 x 19, 32 x 20, 33 x 21, 34 x 21, 35 x 22, 37 x 23, with a difference of 2%.

Below you can find out the speed at a certain cadence. In my example, the minimum speed of 9.9 km / h can be reached with a cadence of 50 rpm, and the maximum speed of 25.6 km / h with a cadence of 130 rpm.

Another look at this topic:

Gear shifting on a bike. Depending on the riding conditions. uphill or downhill, acceleration or maintenance of the required speed, the quality of the road surface, the cyclist is forced to choose the optimal ratio of gears. Choosing the right gear saves you energy while traveling

Types of transmission of torque to a bicycle wheel. Transfer fricoster. The original solution for the transmission of torque from the chain to the hub. Instead of using pawls, a coarse thread is applied to the inner surface of the driver. A special nut in the bushing body is screwed onto the thread when pedaling

Bicycle speed switches. The external mechanism gear shifters are simple in structure, light in weight, low in price, and have a large gear range. Disadvantages: rapid wear of the chain due to skewing when shifting; frequent maintenance. cleaning, lubrication and adjustment; high probability of breakage

ChainLine. the line of the chain. The technical data of the systems and connecting rods usually indicate the recommended ChainLine. Before removing worn-out old components, it is necessary to measure the Chainline and select new components knowing this size

Cycling cadence. Measured in rpm. The term was used in cycling when sports medicine and the scientific approach to maximizing cycling results began to emerge. The essence of research in this direction was to calculate

How to choose shoes for cycling. Types and differences.

In this article, we will try to analyze in detail the types of cycling shoes, the appropriateness of its use, advantages and disadvantages. The article will be useful for both beginners and advanced amateurs who want to improve their skills and move to a new level of bike management.

When buying a bicycle, very few people think about the shoes in which they will ride. This is not quite the right approach, because cycling shoes play a rather important role both in transferring power from the pedal to the transmission and in ensuring your safety when pedaling.

Non-contact shoes are popular among both beginners and professional extreme athletes. The number of manufacturers and the model range is very wide and everyone can choose a model based on their needs and preferences. From standard sneakers to glamorous sneakers) Walking, Athletic, Extreme, Breathable, Indoor, Touring! The choice is huge!

So, let’s dispel the myth that cycling shoes are not needed at all and you can ride in regular running shoes or even slippers and there will be no difference.!

which, gears, bike, choose

The choice of shoes for cycling should be approached more thoroughly, guided by the basic rules:

rigid sole. it will be much better to transfer force from the foot to the pedal, thereby increasing the efficiency and reducing energy consumption and our effort when pedaling, which is a very important factor! Training shoes or shoes for the gym seem to fit this characteristic well, but it will not have tenacity, which is also a very important indicator.

grippy outsole. will significantly reduce the number of false slippage of the foot off the pedal, thereby adding safety and confidence when driving. Grip is especially important when riding aggressively or on rough terrain where there are a lot of stones, roots and other bumps. Probably every cyclist got a pedal on the shin because of a jumped off leg, you must agree, it is very unpleasant)

wear-resistant outsole. will keep your shoes for more than one season! Many pro riders have a pair of lucky shoes and have been riding in it for years, although they can afford a new one)

The right size and good fit will reduce unnecessary leg movement while riding and increase pedaling efficiency. Here you can choose from several options for fixing. laces, Velcro, special tightening ratchets or BOA. Usually manufacturers combine Velcro with fasteners, which is very convenient to use.

It is important for a good fixation of the foot and our safety while riding. The closed toe will protect your toes from twigs, stones or just a bad maneuver when turning. Stiff heel will provide a better fit in the shoe.

So, we have described the basic requirements for cycling shoes. If you adhere to these recommendations when choosing, then you will get much more pleasure and control over your bike while riding. What if you want more? How to improve your performance and learn new bike skills?

Let’s imagine that you have been riding a bicycle for several years, feel confident in the saddle in any situation and have mastered movement at the level of reflexes. Most likely, you have already begun to think about upgrading your iron horse) And many make a mistake, as practice shows, they start the upgrade from the rear crossover) Putting the Shimano Deore XT on. do you think to increase your maximum speed, speed up the passage of difficult sections or move to a new level of riding? NOT! Start with the bigger one, which really gives you a performance boost and better control of your favorite bike.!

All the characteristics that we considered above are present in contact shoes. All contact shoes have special attachments for the spike on the sole. To use these shoes, you need special contact pedals. The cleat snaps into the pedal and your foot is firmly locked.

The advantages of such shoes are better transmission of force from foot to pedal, increased efficiency, increased your average and maximum speed, and better control over the bike. You not only pedal down, but also pull up under the force! Reduces stress on joints and tendons. Due to the clear fixation of the foot on the pedal, there are no unnecessary movements of the leg to the sides, the ankle and knee joint work in the same plane.

READ  How to put the rear wheel on a bike

-shoes sold with spikes? Not. Cycling shoes are sold without spikes. Cleats are sold with clipless pedals or separately. There are several standards for cleats and pedals. For pedal standards see article link.

-if the shoes are rigidly fixed with the pedals, how to quilting? At first, many are afraid of falls, since it will not be possible to remove the leg from the pedal with an arbitrary movement) The leg is unfastened by moving the heel away from itself, which is very convenient and simple. The main thing is to remember this movement and no problems will arise. Once you get used to it, you won’t even pay attention to it.

How To Choose Your Chainrings Cassette. GCN’s Guide To Selecting Road Bike Gear Ratios

Contact shoes can be divided into two large groups:

There are also universal shoes in which you can ride both a road bike and MTB. They have 2 and 3 bolt holes. You can attach both road and MTB cleats. A universal option if you have two bikes (highway and MTB and you don’t want to spend money on another pair of shoes).

Mountain bike contact shoes (downhill, freeride, Trail, enduro, cross-country)

An extensive section of cycling shoes that includes many models for different disciplines and offers a wide range for both the advanced user and the amateur.

For extreme skiing. more closed models with reinforced toe box, wide sole and side protection.

For XC athletes, lightweight, ventilated shoes with carbon soles and comfortable closures. Very stiff footwear for maximum power transfer. Not quite suitable for daily use, as it has a very hard sole, it is difficult to walk in such shoes.

For amateurs. softer cycling shoes with polyamide, nylon, rubber and other materials soles. Provide maximum comfort and good power transfer from foot to pedal. Such shoes are suitable for wearing every day.

If you are a fan of long cycling trips and cycling trips, where it is important not only to ride but also to carry the bike on your shoulders uphill, take a closer look at tourist contact shoes. Such shoes have a high margin of safety, comfortable and grippy soles not only for riding, but also for walking. The spike is sunk deeper into the sole and does not interfere with walking. Trekking shoe outsole technologies such as Vibram are used. In such shoes, you can safely go to the mountains.!

There are also options for open hiking shoes with contacts. For example sandals. But in such shoes you need to be extremely careful and it is advisable not to ride extreme trails. Fingers can easily be injured if dropped.

For a road bike, contact shoes are a must have! Differs from MTB in the standard of studs and their attachment to the sole. Read about the standards of bike pedals in this article link.You will hardly be able to walk with such shoes) The spike is very massive and sticks out strongly from the sole. Therefore, movement in such shoes is only on a bicycle!

There are also footwear for amateurs and professionals. It has a variety of fixation systems. from ordinary laces, Velcro, to ratchet pulls or BOA. budget options will be with laces and Velcro, more expensive ones with ratchets.

which, gears, bike, choose

Among the fixation systems in road shoes, special shoes for triathlon can be distinguished, where it is important to change shoes quickly. These shoes will have a back loop or strap for quick dressing in limited time conditions, as well as a wide Velcro for quick fixing.

How to Choose the Right Gear Ratios for You and Your Bike

Otherwise, all road shoes will be similar. Expensive pro models will have a stiffer carbon outsole for maximum power transfer and weight reduction, more expensive and premium upper materials with an advanced ratchet or BOA retention system. However, everything is like everyone else!

When choosing any cycling shoe, fitting it in will be an important factor. Pay attention to this, it is not always possible to pick up shoes in the blind.

The main thing that we wanted to convey in this article is that cycling shoes play a very important role! And this is the first thing you should do when upgrading your bike.!

Try it, go to the next level of skiing! You will definitely feel the difference!

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How to Select the Right Gear Century Cycles Bicycle Stores of Ohio Serving Cleveland Akron Area Cyclists

Speed ​​Bike Transmission Sprockets: Recommendations for Use

Bicycles with an open gear system have two derailleurs, which are responsible for the chain jump from one sprocket to another on the drive and driven cassettes, respectively. For reference, the driving sprockets are the front or connecting rods, the driven ones are the rear ones at the drive wheel. There is a small paradox, as in the numbering of asterisks.

The front ones are counted from small to large. The standard cassette set is three stars. The first is the smallest or lowest gear. Next comes the second, middle gear and completes the system with the largest, highest star.

Reverse gears are considered the other way around: the largest sprocket corresponds to the first gear, and the smallest gear to the highest gear. The number of sprockets is several times higher than the set of front ones, therefore, for each gear in the front cassette, several rear ones are selected.

The chain switching devices are controlled by shifters on the steering wheel: left. front, right. rear. The first rule of changing speed is not to confuse them with each other. Chain jump occurs only when the bike is moving forward by pedaling. It is unacceptable to change the gear ratio in the reel, as on the planetary hub.

A few more important recommendations for switching:

  • sequentially, through each asterisk;
  • before entering the rise, select the gear in advance;
  • avoid excessive pressure on the pedals when throwing the chain.

And one more thing: we never experiment with the transmission, pedaling in the opposite direction.!

Now let’s touch directly on the question of how to choose gears for specific driving conditions. The general rule of thumb is: on a flat road, we increase the gear to the maximum at which we can maintain a suitable cadence and ensure the maximum travel speed. When driving downhill, against a strong wind or off-road, we lower the gear, ensuring the bike’s cross-country ability and uniform load on the legs.

The largest star and several of the smallest are responsible for the highest gears in front. This position of the chain will provide a minimum acceleration time, high speed and roll-off. For standard 37 (8) transmission systems, this would be position 3 at the front and 1 to 5 at the rear. Faster, more precise gearshift systems have a wider range of sprockets.

The middle chainring is activated when small obstacles appear in the path: wind, sand on the road, gentle hills, and bumps on the road. In system 38 for the second sprocket, the lower limit of the rear cassette is shifted one, and the highest. two stars back. Recommended positions: 23, 24, 25 and 26. Chain position second in front and third in back brings the speed bike closer to single speed performance. Lower gears reduce speed, increasing flotation.

On a mountain bike, gear ratios are actively used with the position of the chain on the first front sprocket. Rear sprocket ranges from 6 to 8. Low gears are used in tough conditions: twisty trails, mud, sand, bumpy dirt and steep climbs. Movement speed is minimal, while cadence and leg loads are maintained.

It is strongly discouraged to use higher chainrings and lower rear sprockets, and vice versa. Overuse of such experiments will quickly destroy the stars, circuitry, and very expensive switches. In general, the chain skew between the front and rear cassettes is present even in the normal position, so aggravating it is more expensive.

If we talk about sensations, then the cyclist with the wrong position of the chain will feel one discomfort from the high-speed bike. Correct use of gear ratios is the key to successful riding and a long service life of the transmission!

Drive sprocket switch adjustment

Over time, the chain flip worsens, the gears are poorly shifted, or even fail altogether. Since there are few stars in front, it is simply impossible not to notice the malfunction.

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If the problem of a tight jump of the chain or its absence is caused only by a detuned switch, then it is quite possible to save the situation on your own. Why is the switch not working correctly? The main reasons include:

  • mismatch of the gear with the planes of the stars;
  • poor tension in the drive cable;
  • the switch is loose.

As practice shows, these problems do not come one at a time, so you will have to adjust everything at once, and not just, say, the tension of the cable.

At the first stage, we wipe the body of the device, as well as the sprockets and the chain from adhering dirt and dust. We check the mounting bolts of the switching device housing, tighten it all the way if necessary. Important: tweaking a loose switch does not make sense!

Next, we find the screws L and H. adjusters of the position of the shifting gear. We loosen them, but do not unscrew them completely. Our task is to tighten them in such a way as to achieve the coincidence of the gear with the planes of the outer stars.

  • Switch the chain to position 1 at the front and maximum at the rear. If the system works very badly, the chain is installed manually.
  • Tighten the adjusting screw to achieve full alignment of the shifter gear with the plane of the first chainring. Deviation up to 1.5 mm is not critical.
  • Loosen the cable fastening nut, tighten it a little.

Front derailleur H setting:

  • Set the chains in reverse position: maximum front, 1. rear. For system 38, this will be 3 and 1, respectively.
  • Tighten screw H until the shifter aligns with the large sprocket.
  • Tighten the cable in this position.

When the limits are set, the chain swap should be restored. If the screws are clearly set, and the system does not work well, we try to tighten or loosen the cable. How to determine? Gears go tight from high to low. tighten, on the contrary. loosen the tension.

How to properly shift gears on a bike?

Even in the distant past, singspeed was the only bicycle option among the mass of the population. Happy bike owners felt great on flat asphalt, but had to adapt to rough terrain: forcefully pull the pedals up on the slopes, accelerate from descents to take off to the next hill, lower the tires to drive on uneven dirt. Sometimes the skills were no longer enough, and the cyclist left the saddle to go through an unfavorable area on foot.

Over time, everything has changed: manufacturers began to produce in large quantities highly specialized bikes. road bikes, mountain models, hybrids, sports, etc. The former leader in the person of single speed has noticeably receded into the background and is bought exclusively for trips on highways and light dry primers.

Most modern bicycles are equipped with so-called speeds. The most common variant is an open sprocket transmission. It is used on all types of bikes, including city bikes. Shifting gears on a bicycle allows the cyclist to adapt his transport to specific traffic conditions, as well as to rationally use his own strength.

The presence of speeds, of course, gives an advantage over the single-speed version, but the benefits are manifested with skillful use of it on the road. There are simple principles that will tell you how to properly shift gears on your bike and not collapse with fatigue after each ride. But even with proper operation, the speed system fails over time, so you need to be able to configure it.

Setting the rear gear system

The next step is to adjust the chain travel along the rear sprockets. Most often, it is there that problems are observed, and it is no coincidence: there are more stars, plus a tensioner. First, carefully clean the mechanism of dirt.

  • Checking the cock and bolts.
  • Gear Limit Adjustment, Cable Tightening.
  • Selection of the optimal chain tension.

A bent cock must be replaced. Simultaneously checks if the switch is loose.

  • Loosen both screws.
  • Throw the chain to the highest (smallest) sprocket (front to maximum).
  • Tighten bolt H until the derailleur idler is aligned with the sprocket in the same plane.
  • Engage first gear (largest, and in front. first).
  • Turn the screw L to match the roller with the star.
  • Check switching accuracy.
  • Tighten or loosen the drive cable. Determined according to the same principle as with the front derailer.

Is the gear not shifting quickly, the limits are correct, and the cable is tight? Then it’s time to work with the chain tensioner. We find special screws A and B. The first one adjusts the position of the frame relative to the smallest, and the second. to the largest sprocket.

Adjustment is carried out according to the principle: change to the appropriate gear and tighten the screw. Turning adjuster A increases the tension force by raising the frame to the higher sprocket. Conversely, screw B lowers it towards the large sprocket. An incorrectly set tension does not make it possible to easily select the desired gear: a too loose chain can hang in the space between the sprockets, and an overtightened one can break due to excessive tension.

Periodically adjusting the derailleurs on a speed bike is normal. It will be invaluable when the chain and cassettes are in good condition. Setting up the gearshift system in combination with the rules of use when cycling will significantly increase the resource of all components of the transmission, as well as use its resources to the maximum.

Front derailleur

Its design allows you to transfer the chain from one to the other on the chainrings. It works like this: inside there is a moving frame through which the chain passes.

When you need to switch the speed, this frame moves (it becomes above the desired star) and, accordingly, moves to the chain star.

There are several parameters in which the front derailleurs differ:

  • There are several ways to attach them to the frame. The first method is to use cable ties to attach the switch. You can also use the second method (especially for frames with non-standard geometry). clamp the plate that holds the switch with a cartridge or carriage.
  • Also, there may be different angles of installation of the switch relative to the frame (you should select this parameter correctly and accurately so that you can correctly shift gears).
  • Another parameter that may differ is how the cable is attached. It can be connected to the switch from above or below (there are models that have both connection methods in their design).

For all front derailleurs, it is not possible to swing the chain under load. Of course, almost all manufacturers are trying to find a solution, but emerging systems are expensive and often ineffective.

Internal switching mechanism

City bikes often use an internal gearshift mechanism that is hidden inside the rear planetary hub (for example, the new Forward Surf 2.0 cruiser). Planetary hub bikes have only one chainring and one sprocket. The number of speeds / gears of the planetary bushings is usually from 3 to 7. The planetary hub has a rather complex internal structure.

Pluses of planetary bushings: they withstand adverse weather and road conditions well, since the mechanism and all its parts are enclosed in a case and, as a result, are reliable and durable; you can switch speeds without pedaling.

Cons of planetary bushings:. heavy weight;. very difficult repairs, impossible in field conditions.

How to set up gear shifting on a bike

Over time, every cyclist has trouble shifting gears. Either you cannot switch from one gear to another. you jump over a couple of stars, or you cannot switch at all. This is where the need for awareness arises on how to set up gear shifting on a bicycle.

Adjusting the speeds on a bike is not a complicated procedure (although at first glance it seems so). If you are configuring two switches, start from the rear.

External switching mechanism

These derailleurs are used much more frequently on bicycles. Gear shifting takes place using two switches: rear and front. Let’s consider each of them in more detail.

Reasons for incorrect gear shifting

The most common reasons are:

  • stretching the cable;
  • poorly working return spring;
  • deformation of the rooster;
  • deformation of the switch.

A. Rear derailleur setting.

  • Switch to a small star;
  • Disconnect the shift cable from the derailleur by unscrewing the cable clamp bolt on the derailleur;
  • Set the adjusting screw on the shifter body to the middle position (unscrew it by half), if there is such a screw on the switch itself, do a similar operation with it;
  • Remove the chain from the bike, if there is no lock on your chain. this operation does not need to be done;
  • Turn the adjusting screw marked H (derailleur travel stop) so that the upper roller of the rear derailleur is in the same plane with the smallest sprocket on the cassette. When the adjusting screw is turned clockwise, the clearance of the upper roller is displaced towards the wheel, when the adjusting screw is turned counterclockwise, the upper roller is displaced in the opposite direction;
  • After choosing the tension of the shift cable, fix it on the switch;
  • By rotating the pedals, switch to the large cassette stars, if you removed the chain. you can change gears without turning the pedals;
  • With each shift, the chain should move to the next sprocket without delay, if this does not happen immediately, increase the tension of the shifting cable by slightly unscrewing the adjustment on the shifter housing. If you do all this with the chain removed, the shift roller must always be in the same plane with the star you switched to;
  • By switching to the largest star on the cassette, adjust the limit by “low” transmission. Turn the adjusting screw marked L until the upper roller of the rear derailleur is flush with the largest sprocket on the cassette. The derailleur should not move further than the largest sprocket by a millimeter, even if you press the shift key, this is critical, as it will prevent the derailleur foot from getting into the spokes of the rear wheel and damage to the derailleur, chain and the wheel itself;
  • Sequentially switch to the smallest sprocket, if shifting occurs with a delay. loosen the shift cable tension by slightly unscrewing the adjustment on the shifter housing. If you do all this with the chain removed, the shift roller must always be in the same plane with the star you switched to;
  • Install the chain on the bike;
  • Place the chain on the smallest chainring and largest sprocket and rotate the crank to shift. Adjust the clearance adjustment screw so that the top roller does not touch the sprocket, but do not allow the top roller to come close enough to the chain to contact it. Then place the chain on the smallest sprocket. Repeat the above steps to make sure the derailleur roller does not touch the star.
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For Shimano Shadow and Shimano Shadow derailleurs, this adjustment is made when shifting to the largest sprocket. Make sure that the distance from the edge of the top roller to the edge of the sprocket is within: for cassettes with 11-36 teeth. and 11-34 tooth 5-6mm; for cassettes with 11-32 teeth 9-10mm.

Turning the adjusting screw clockwise increases the clearance; turning the adjusting screw counterclockwise decreases the clearance.

Internal switching mechanism

This type of derailleur uses planetary bushings. In this case, the shifting mechanism is hidden inside the rear hub, which results in one sprocket on the front wheel, a chain, and one sprocket on the rear wheel.

The current planetary hubs have a different number of gears (from three to fourteen), they can also have a built-in brake.

Such mechanisms are mainly used on walking and road bicycles, very rarely on mountain bicycles.

Consider the merits of these switches:

  • increased resistance to weather and road conditions (the parts of the mechanism are in the case);
  • the presence of a built-in brake;
  • they are quite reliable and durable;
  • such a mechanism allows you to change gears without pedaling;
  • fairly simple maintenance.

However, such mechanisms also have disadvantages:

  • quite heavy weight;
  • complication of movement may occur due to strong friction of the nodes;
  • it is impossible to repair the mechanism in field conditions.

Which gears on the bike to choose

In the Bike Patrol section, you will not only find useful recommendations on how to behave and what to do in various traffic situations, but you will also be able to test your knowledge of traffic rules thanks to our tests.

which, gears, bike, choose

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Velogen is a project created by cyclists for cyclists. It unites people with similar thinking, which can be safely called the Velogen index. It’s time to declare cycling culture as a movement of a new generation and to say what characterizes the cycling culture in general and us, cyclists:

Close-knit cycling community. Getting together and helping each other are key factors in our community. Every cyclist understands the importance of mutual assistance on the road.

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We. Velogen’s team, cyclists from different cities and even countries, have developed an information project that unites all cyclists in Ukraine and allows us to declare us to the world as the cycling culture of our generation! Velogen. it is a reflection of our cycling culture! Welcome to Velogen!

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With feeling, with sense, with arrangement: how to change gears correctly

How can you tell an experienced cyclist from a beginner, even if they ride the same bikes at the same speed? Answer: by ear.

Experienced in the knowledge of how to properly shift gears on a bicycle. This happens to him without a single sound. The beginner has a terrible grinding noise. What is the reason?

Answer: Inexperienced cyclists shift gears without releasing pedal pressure. This is bad: this reduces the resource of the chain and transmission stars. And sometimes such a shift even leads to breakage of the gear derailleurs.

How to properly shift gears on a bike?

  • First you need to slow down your pedaling. Slow down so that they are spinning idle.
  • Change gear.
  • Continue pedaling at idle speed. As soon as you feel that the chain has jumped to a new star, you can pedal again in your usual mode.

For more information on how to shift gears on a bike, see the following video:

Do not skew the chain. That is, if you are driving the chain on the smallest chainring, it should not be on the smallest chainring at the same time. Conversely, when on the largest chainring, the chain should not be on the largest chainring. This also reduces the service life of the chain, stars and the gearshift system as a whole.

How to Shift Gears on a Bicycle: A Visual Aid

Do not shift reverse and forward gears at the same time. During such a switch, the chain may jam.

Switch to the desired gear well in advance. For example: in front of you is a rise. Seeing it, shift into the desired gear a few meters before you feel the lean angle. Otherwise, you will begin to switch at the moment when you apply strong pressure on the pedals. This is bad. Why is the answer above.

Shift gears a few meters before lifting

Take care of your bike. Gear shifters must be clean and free of dirt. The same applies to the chain (learn how to clean it here). Only in this state will they work correctly and last a long time.

Take care of your bike. and it will serve you for a long time

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