What kind of oil to put in a bicycle fork

Oil selection

It is very difficult to choose oil for the fork, despite the recommendations of the motorcycle manufacturers. The problem is that motorcycle manufacturers often specify ideal viscosities at an oil operating temperature many times higher than when the technical fluid is poured into the fork. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the standard designation of viscosity, but also to the coefficient of its change with increasing temperature. Such information is often indicated on the canister with liquid, and if they are not available, you will need to pay attention to the manufacturer’s website or to specialized materials published by technical experts.

Since the characteristics of oils from different manufacturers with the same SAE designation can vary significantly, it is better to choose one brand and remain faithful to it in the future. The first change is always made with oil with the same viscosity as indicated in the vehicle operating instructions. With a significant decrease in fork stiffness, it will be necessary to gradually increase the viscosity. by 2.5W or 5W with each subsequent replacement, depending on your personal preference. 10W oil is recommended for most touring bikes, 2.5-5W for sport and high-performance city bikes.

kind, bicycle, fork

Do not fill the fork with regular engine oil as it will obtain the desired damping characteristics. On the canister with a special material, you can find the inscription Fork Oil or Suspension Oil. You should beware of fakes, because with low-quality oil in the fork, the motorcycle can become uncontrollable, which will lead to a serious accident.

When choosing the stiffness of the fork, you should be guided by the type of road on which the motorcycle will be used. By adding more viscous oil, you will get better damping performance and your vehicle will be more stable at high speeds. However, as the stiffness increases, the comfort will significantly decrease. on any large irregularities the driver will feel a “breakdown”, which can even knock the motorcycle off course. On the contrary, an oil that is not viscous enough for a fork will cause significant hesitation, jerking or even steering when cornering.

If the bike will only be used on quality intercity and racetrack tracks, there is nothing wrong with significantly increasing the stiffness of the fork. However, for driving on country roads and city streets with poor coverage, such settings are no longer suitable. A special case is the replacement of technical fluid in a motocross motorcycle. For him you will have to buy a special technical fluid marked “Off-Road” on the canister. Using regular road bike oil can significantly reduce the energy consumption of the suspension or even cause suspension damage.

Consider the procedure for removing a fork from a bicycle.

First you need to turn the bike with the wheels up, and after releasing the brake (in the case of a rim brake), remove the front wheel. After that, you can remove the stem with the stem and the head tube.

Then we remove directly the plug itself. It is important to ensure that the balls are not lost from the bearings when removing the fork. Any sharp object can be used to remove the tapered support ring from the fork stem. After that, you can start repairing or servicing the plug.

Next, consider the procedure for disassembling the fork (as an example, a spring-electric fork will act):

  • The lower fixing bolts are unscrewed using hexagons.
  • The preload spring force adjustment bolt is unscrewed (it is important to remember the bolt stroke).
  • An elastomer is obtained, which is assigned the function of limiting the travel of the spring (sometimes, if necessary, you can change the size of the elastomer by cutting).
  • The bolts are unscrewed and “pants” are taken out. In this case, you need to monitor what flows out of there (dirt, water, oil).
  • Anthers are taken from the “pants” with a screwdriver, as well as bosses, which for this need to be rotated around their axis.

Further, all components are checked for cracks or other damage and washed with kerosene. Items requiring lubrication are treated with an appropriate material. It is worth noting that it is better to lubricate the spring with a thick grease, which will increase the efficiency of the bicycle fork.

Some cyclists even go through only purchased forks, trying to individually debug the device.

The fork assembly process is performed in the reverse order of the parsing process, so we will not describe it.

It is better to entrust the procedure for replacing the fork on a bicycle to a qualified specialist or perform it under the supervision and according to the recommendations of the master.

As practice shows, owners can be divided into two types:

  • Those who ride a bike until the last “breath” of transport, and only when all systems completely fail, think about repairing the device.
  • Those who carefully monitor the condition of the bike, follow the rules for caring for it and prevent any breakdowns.

It is no secret that the approach of the first type of owners ultimately costs much more, because often it is necessary to replace the components of the bicycle that are not recoverable. In addition, there are times when the bike can no longer be saved.

In principle, experienced users are quite capable of handling fork repairs on their own, because over time, every cyclist who shows an interest in his transport will remember the name and functions of the parts, and it is no longer difficult for him to find the cause of the problem. If there is no relevant experience and skills in repairing a bicycle, then you should not experiment and it is better to contact competent specialists. In addition, ignorance of the design features of the fork itself can lead to difficulties in eliminating its breakage.

This video review will help you consolidate the acquired skills:

Why remove and disassemble the bike fork

A bicycle fork, like all other components, can be replaced, repaired or serviced. Therefore, before proceeding with these procedures, we need to remove it from the bike, and in some cases disassemble the shock absorber for parts. In what cases will we have to remove it? First of all, this is when it is replaced by another. Secondly, it may be necessary to replace bearings and / or support cups, apply new lubricant, and also, there are times when it is necessary to align the steering tube or perform other repair work.

Disassembling a fork shock absorber is most often necessary to replace lubricant or worn components. For example, these can be oil seals (cuffs), etc.

  • First of all, we carry out preparatory work, namely, we unscrew everything that is attached to the plug. In our case, this is the brake caliper, as well as the front disc brake hose, which is clamped to the fork legs. If you have V-brakes installed, then dismantle them. This also applies to the speed sensor from the bike computer, front fender, etc.
  • Unscrew the bolts securing the stem to the steering tube, and then unscrew the bicycle fork anchor bolt.
  • Carefully remove the steering wheel together with the stem and lower it down. At this stage, you should act carefully so as not to damage the hydraulic lines or accidentally hitting the metal parts of the steering wheel on the frame, so as not to scratch the latter.
  • Remove the spacer rings and the guide sleeve (cone). To do this, carefully pry it with a small flat screwdriver in the area of ​​the cut. Then we take out the upper rolling ring and the upper bearing. All these actions are illustrated by the pictures below.
  • All operations have been completed and now you can carefully remove the steering tube from the glass. After that, it remains for us to get the bearing, the lower rolling ring and remove the front wheel. To do this, we loosen the eccentric or unscrew the fixing bolts (depending on the type of attachment). This completes the process of removing the bike fork.

Fork maintenance intervals

The frequency of changing the lubricant of a bicycle fork depends not least on the road surface on which you are riding. If there is an abundance of dust, mud, sand and other abrasive material on your routes, then the frequency of service should be increased. Here are the average figures after which maintenance should be performed.

Approximately every 700-800 km, the oil seals should be disassembled and lubricated, and every 4000-5000 km the entire fork is moved and lubricated.

How and how can you lubricate a bicycle suspension fork

I use Litol-24 grease to lubricate all of the bike’s front fork assemblies, including both the shock absorber and the head tube bearings. It is believed that it negatively affects aluminum parts when exposed to moisture. But using it for five seasons, no negative consequences were noticed. The advantages of this grease include good temperature resistance. It does not thicken both in severe frost down to.50 C and in extreme heat (up to 150 C).

Many people advise pouring liquid machine oils, sewing machine oil, and others into their forks. Personally, in my experience, a deterioration in the operation of the fork shock absorber was noticed (jerks were observed during compression and rebound of the spring). And if liquid oils worked better, manufacturers would have filled them in initially, which they do not.

We figured out how to lubricate the bicycle fork. Next, let’s see how to do this. We apply grease to the spring with excess (we ram the lubricant between the spring rings), the excess will come out through the hole under the stem and, if there is an excess in the pants, it will be squeezed out through the stuffing box seals (but you shouldn’t overdo it either). We also apply grease to the grooves of the cuffs and add forks to the pants. We lubricate all rubbing parts with a thin layer.

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Before installing the plug into the glass, do not forget to lubricate the bearings, rings and cups.

This completes the lubrication process and you can go back to assembling and installing the bicycle fork.

Why and how often do you need to change the oil?

If you buy a motorcycle without a run in the Russian Federation, for example, this can be done at synergosmoto.com, then you will not be able to change the oil soon, but after prolonged operation, even on such bikes, you will have to change the oil usually after 5000-7000 km. The main functions of the oil in the motorcycle fork are two. the role of a damper, and to absorb the remains of metal shavings. In the first case, the loss of oil will lead to a deterioration in ride quality, the fork will “bite”, may start to lock, etc. Such behavior not only interferes with full movement, but can also provoke an accident. Oil contaminated with metal shavings loses its lubricating properties, which leads to rapid wear of parts.

In addition, the oil should be changed when:

  • leak
  • after winter downtime
  • after a long downtime
  • within the period specified by the manufacturer

The last option is the most preferable, because most often the owners of motor vehicles carry out exactly the planned oil change in the plug. Each manufacturer specifies how often the fork lubricant should be changed. This parameter depends on both the bike type and the fork design. For urban motorcycles, it is recommended to replace it every 10-15 thousand km, and for cross-country and enduro motorcycles, this figure can drop to 5-10 thousand km.

Training

Regardless of how complex the oil change process you choose, it can be accelerated if everything is properly prepared. First of all, wash the front fork of any adhering dirt and oil. Then, prepare a container of grease cream to keep your garage clean. If the fork is not high enough on the footboard, you can prepare small spacers for the footboard. Finally, you should prepare the tools:

  • set of open-end and spanner wrenches
  • mallet
  • kerosene
  • funnel

Changing the oil in the motorcycle fork

This procedure extends the life of the entire mechanism and, more importantly, maintains the ride quality of the motorcycles. Below, we will tell you how the oil is changed in the fork of a motorcycle of straight and inverted telescopic structures, what viscosity should the oil be.

Changing the oil in the motorcycle fork is a responsible and mandatory process for most models. This procedure extends the life of the entire mechanism and, more importantly, maintains the ride quality of the motorcycles. Below, we will tell you how the oil is changed in the fork of a motorcycle of straight and inverted telescopic structures, what viscosity should the oil be.

Oil change for standard telescopic fork

The general scheme for changing the oil is very simple, you should unscrew the drain plugs, wait until the oil is drained, rinse the plug with kerosene if necessary, and then fill in new oil and put the plugs in place. But alas, practice shows that this procedure primarily depends on the design of the feathers. If the feather has a lower drain bolt, then the front chassis can be serviced indiscriminately, but if the fork is inverted or does not have lower drain holes, then you will have to make a complete analysis of the front suspension structure. Based on this, we will divide the oil change process into two types:

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Incomplete disassembly of the front suspension: A case suitable for feathers with an end bottom or side bottom drain bolt. With proper dexterity, the suspension may not be disassembled at all, but there is always a risk of oil staining the brake mechanism or the wheel, then you will have to do extra cleaning work. It is best to make a replacement as follows: First of all, we clamp the front brake or push the wheel against the wall, sit on the motorcycle and force the fork to work 10-15 times with the weight of our body, this is necessary to warm up the oil, raise sediment and better clean the mechanism. Place the motorcycle on the main kickstand so that the front wheel is suspended in the air. We remove the front wheel and free up access to the upper bolts for draining the oil from the feathers (the end part of the feather). Using a suitable spanner wrench, unscrew the upper drain bolts (in some cases, it may be necessary to loosen the upper clamps). Install a container to collect oil under the lower drain bolt. Unscrew the bolt with a spanner wrench and wait for the oil to drain completely. If necessary, rinse the fork with kerosene. We carry out an audit of anthers and oil seals, replacing them if necessary.

Fill in fresh oil through the upper part, after tightening the lower bolt. We tighten the top bolt and mount the wheel and other removed parts.

Note! In this position, after washing or simply draining the oil, part of the liquid remains in the pen and will slightly affect the quality of the mixture. The exception is feathers with a lower drain plug in the end part.

Complete removal of the fork feathers

If you need to carry out not only an oil change, but also a high-quality flushing, revision of the insides of the pen, or if there is no lower drain hole, then the pen is removed completely. The whole process looks like this: Warming up the oil in the fork (with the brake clamped, we make the fork work as much as possible). We remove the wheel, the front fender and, if necessary, part of the dashboard, freeing the passage to the traverse fasteners. We twist the upper cover of the pen without unwinding the lower one (if any). We loosen the upper and lower traverse by removing the feather, if it does not give in, knock on it with a mallet or unscrew the bolts more strongly. We prepare a container for draining the oil, unscrew the drain bolt and drain all the grease, helping by squeezing and unclenching the plug.

Important! When draining the oil through the upper plug, the spring and bushings may fall out of the plug, we carefully remove them to the side, observing the procedure for removal.

We rinse the plug, revise the anthers and oil seals, replacing them if necessary. We install the parts removed from the pen in the reverse order and fill in the appropriate oil, its volume is indicated in the accompanying documentation and we do the whole procedure for the other pen. Putting everything in the reverse order, carefully controlling the tightening of all bolts.

Useful Tips

If the brake discs were soiled with oil during operation, they must be treated with alcohol without fail. After all the procedures, check the operation of the mechanism. If you start to “bite”. there are air locks. there is little oil. With strong recoil, too much oil was poured onto the steering wheel. Be sure to pay attention to the condition of the plug. Here is a list of fork care: smudges. revision of oil seals and anthers; incorrect operation. checking the spring and the geometry of the mechanism; simple. full revision; suitable mileage. mandatory flushing and oil change.

Flushing is best done with low viscosity oil. Despite the fact that the oil seals are able to withstand the effects of kerosene and other flushing fluids, they still tan and fail faster.

Oil selection

Looking ahead, it should be noted that it is best to give the choice of oil to the manufacturer. The problem is that it is quite difficult to choose the right oil, because its viscosity is selected taking into account a specific design, its spring and a number of other parameters, for example, preserving or changing the astringent properties when heated. Yes, the fork heats up during driving, along with the oil, which changes its characteristics. If the manufacturer has not indicated the exact brand of oil, then we select it based on a viscosity of 10 to 2.5 W, depending on the type of motorcycle.

Ordinary engine oil is not suitable, we should choose Fork or Suspension Oil. Do not forget that the market is full of fakes and their use can lead to unpleasant consequences in the form of an accident. The volume of oil should also be indicated by the manufacturer, this is approximately 400 ml of liquid in each pen. The indicator can change from model to model. If you did not find accurate data, then you can fill in the liquid by analogy with the volume of the drained material, if there were leaks, then topping up can be done through the upper drain bolt. experienced riders can adjust fork stiffness primarily by using oils of different viscosities. For example, pouring thinner oil can soften the suspension and move more comfortably over rough terrain. For country trips, you should fill in oil with a higher viscosity. The fork will be firmer and the bike will hold better on the track, especially at high speeds. Most importantly, do not forget that the deviation of the selected oil from the recommended one should be insignificant, and Honor also costs a change in its properties when heated.

Replacement procedure

Before changing the oil, be sure to look where the lower plug on the fork is. the principle of the entire procedure depends on this. There are the following options:

  • At the bottom at the end;
  • Side at the bottom;
  • The bottom plug is missing.
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When the drain hole is located at the end of the fork, lift the motorcycle onto a support, remove the front wheel and set the rods strictly vertically. The lateral location of the plug allows you to repair the hydraulic system without removing the wheel, although you will have to lift the motorcycle in this case too. If there is no bottom plug, you will need to dismantle the plug.

Having decided what kind of oil to pour into the plug, first unscrew the upper plug, and then the lower one, having previously substituted a vessel with a volume of at least 0.5 liters under each shock absorber. If you have to work with a motorcycle that lacks the bottom plug, the dismantled fork will need to be turned over so that the oil can drain out of it through a single hole. After draining the technical fluid, the plug must be rinsed. a special fluid or ordinary low-viscosity engine oil is suitable for this. After completing all this, blow the part from the inside with compressed air from a compressor or a special can.

A very important question is how much fluid to fill in order to achieve ideal damping characteristics? The most common recommendations on the Internet suggest the use of 500 ml of fluid for each shock absorber. However, this is a very crude assumption that can make the motorcycle completely uncontrollable. To optimize the handling of two-wheeled vehicles, it is worth focusing on such a parameter as the oil level from the upper edge of the pipe. You can find it in the vehicle operating instructions or in specialized technical literature.

It should be understood that an oil pump with a measuring needle that prevents the overflow of liquid costs about 100. not every motorcyclist agrees to go for such expenses. Therefore, a much better solution would be to build the necessary tool yourself, spending no more than 100 rubles on it. At the pharmacy, buy a syringe for 10 “cubes” and a catheter, which is a transparent tube that fits over the nozzle of the syringe. You will need a length of catheter equal to the distance found in the instructions. It will need to be tightly put on the syringe nose to prevent oil leakage during operation.

First, you need to pour 500 ml of oil into the plug, or a little more if the catheter does not reach the upper edge of the liquid. Then the syringe is applied to the pipe so that the base of its spout coincides with the cutting line. You just have to pump out the excess oil, which will interfere with the suspension adjustment. Remember that this procedure must be carried out with the fork compressed in order to be able to accurately determine the correct oil level. The cartridge should be installed at this moment, but the spring does not need to be installed.

Oil selection

It is very difficult to choose oil for the fork, despite the recommendations of the motorcycle manufacturers. The problem is that motorcycle manufacturers often specify ideal viscosities at an oil operating temperature many times higher than when the technical fluid is poured into the fork. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the standard designation of viscosity, but also to the coefficient of its change with increasing temperature. Such information is often indicated on the canister with liquid, and if they are not available, you will need to pay attention to the manufacturer’s website or to specialized materials published by technical experts.

Since the characteristics of oils from different manufacturers with the same SAE designation can vary significantly, it is better to choose one brand and remain faithful to it in the future. The first change is always made with oil with the same viscosity as indicated in the vehicle operating instructions. With a significant decrease in fork stiffness, it will be necessary to gradually increase the viscosity. by 2.5W or 5W with each subsequent replacement, depending on your personal preference. 10W oil is recommended for most touring bikes, 2.5-5W for sport and high-performance city bikes.

Do not fill the fork with regular engine oil as it will obtain the desired damping characteristics. On the canister with a special material, you can find the inscription Fork Oil or Suspension Oil. You should beware of fakes, because with low-quality oil in the fork, the motorcycle can become uncontrollable, which will lead to a serious accident.

When choosing the stiffness of the fork, you should be guided by the type of road on which the motorcycle will be used. By adding more viscous oil, you will get better damping performance and your vehicle will be more stable at high speeds. However, as the stiffness increases, the comfort will significantly decrease. on any large irregularities the driver will feel a “breakdown”, which can even knock the motorcycle off course. On the contrary, an oil that is not viscous enough for a fork will cause significant hesitation, jerking or even steering when cornering.

If the bike will only be used on quality intercity and racetrack tracks, there is nothing wrong with significantly increasing the stiffness of the fork. However, for driving on country roads and city streets with poor coverage, such settings are no longer suitable. A special case is the replacement of technical fluid in a motocross motorcycle. For him you will have to buy a special technical fluid marked “Off-Road” on the canister. Using regular road bike oil can significantly reduce the energy consumption of the suspension or even cause suspension damage.

How to change the oil in a motorcycle fork?

A procedure such as changing the oil in a motorcycle fork is intimidating not only for beginners, but also for experienced riders. Even professional mechanics often spend a lot of time doing this job as they have to deal with a lot of nuances. In addition, it is necessary to choose the right oil, which will allow you to obtain the required parameters of the suspension stiffness. Therefore, it is necessary to approach such a procedure only after thorough preliminary preparation.

Oil change intervals

Most manufacturers recommend changing the oil in the front suspension of a motorcycle every 12-15 thousand kilometers to ensure that the two-wheeled vehicle maintains good handling. However, experienced owners prefer to make the replacement at the same time as scheduled repairs, which include installing new seals. This allows you to obtain optimal parameters of fork stiffness without facing time-consuming and time-consuming adjustments.

It is recommended to change the oil after a winter inactivity of the motorcycle, since it can partially or completely lose its properties from low temperatures. If the motorcycle participates in sports competitions and the requirements for its handling are very high, the frequency of changing the technical fluid should be reduced to 5 thousand kilometers. Experienced drivers recommend changing the fluid when the fork becomes noticeable. This translates into deep dives when braking and destabilizing the bike at high speeds. In such a situation, it is recommended to buy a higher viscosity oil to make the suspension stiffer, as well as improve the handling of the two-wheeled vehicle.

Responsible process

The correct choice of oil for the fork determines the handling of the motorcycle, and, consequently, the safety of the driver and others. It is best to follow the recommendations of the motorcycle manufacturer, but increase the viscosity of the technical fluid when components are worn out in order to achieve good damping characteristics. It is also worth paying attention to the oil change procedure. the possibility of adjusting the suspension and obtaining optimal stiffness depends on its correct implementation. Do not forget about flushing the fork after draining the old oil. drops of technical fluid remaining inside and chips resulting from the friction of the components with each other can significantly affect the characteristics of the shock absorbers. If you are not sure that you can carry out an oil change and suspension adjustment yourself, contact a professional mechanic, as your interventions can only harm.

Replacement procedure

Before changing the oil, be sure to look where the lower plug on the fork is. the principle of the entire procedure depends on this. There are the following options:

  • At the bottom at the end;
  • Side at the bottom;
  • The bottom plug is missing.

When the drain hole is located at the end of the fork, lift the motorcycle onto a support, remove the front wheel and set the rods strictly vertically. The lateral location of the plug allows you to repair the hydraulic system without removing the wheel, although you will have to lift the motorcycle in this case too. If there is no bottom plug, you will need to dismantle the plug.

Having decided what kind of oil to pour into the plug, first unscrew the upper plug, and then the lower one, having previously substituted a vessel with a volume of at least 0.5 liters under each shock absorber. If you have to work with a motorcycle that lacks the bottom plug, the dismantled fork will need to be turned over so that the oil can drain out of it through a single hole. After draining the technical fluid, the plug must be rinsed. a special fluid or ordinary low-viscosity engine oil is suitable for this. After completing all this, blow the part from the inside with compressed air from a compressor or a special can.

A very important question is how much fluid to fill in order to achieve ideal damping characteristics? The most common recommendations on the Internet suggest the use of 500 ml of fluid for each shock absorber. However, this is a very crude assumption that can make the motorcycle completely uncontrollable. To optimize the handling of two-wheeled vehicles, it is worth focusing on such a parameter as the oil level from the upper edge of the pipe. You can find it in the vehicle operating instructions or in specialized technical literature.

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It should be understood that an oil pump with a measuring needle that prevents the overflow of liquid costs about 100. not every motorcyclist agrees to go for such expenses. Therefore, a much better solution would be to build the necessary tool yourself, spending no more than 100 rubles on it. At the pharmacy, buy a syringe for 10 “cubes” and a catheter, which is a transparent tube that fits over the nozzle of the syringe. You will need a length of catheter equal to the distance found in the instructions. It will need to be tightly put on the syringe nose to prevent oil leakage during operation.

First, you need to pour 500 ml of oil into the plug, or a little more if the catheter does not reach the upper edge of the liquid. Then the syringe is applied to the pipe so that the base of its spout coincides with the cutting line. You just have to pump out the excess oil, which will interfere with the suspension adjustment. Remember that this procedure must be carried out with the fork compressed in order to be able to accurately determine the correct oil level. The cartridge should be installed at this moment, but the spring does not need to be installed.

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Elastomeric spring mechanisms

This fork needs to be lubricated every season, and maybe several times a season when driving actively. This process consists of just a few stages:

  • with a syringe, oil is poured under the boot;
  • the fork is being developed;
  • oil residues are removed with a rag.

To carry out some manipulations with the plug, you must be able to remove and install it back. Forks are of different types, but the dismantling process is based on general principles, therefore, the scheme of work described below is relevant in any case.

We coped with the dismantling, but what about the dismantling of the mechanism itself? There is nothing complicated in this process either. The work will be performed according to the following scheme:

  • We unscrew the lower bolts with a hexagon.
  • Do the same job with the Preload spring adjusting bolt.
  • Removing the elastomer.
  • Remove the pants and unscrew the bolts. Something will flow out of them, it can be oil, water and dirt.

Using a screwdriver, remove the oil seals and bushings, scrolling the latter around the axis beforehand.

To manipulate the plug, you must be able to remove and install it back.

Oil selection

It is very difficult to choose oil for the fork, despite the recommendations of the motorcycle manufacturers. The problem is that motorcycle manufacturers often specify ideal viscosities at an oil operating temperature many times higher than when the technical fluid is poured into the fork. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the standard designation of viscosity, but also to the coefficient of its change with increasing temperature. Such information is often indicated on the canister with liquid, and if they are not available, you will need to pay attention to the manufacturer’s website or to specialized materials published by technical experts.

Since the characteristics of oils from different manufacturers with the same SAE designation can vary significantly, it is better to choose one brand and remain faithful to it in the future. The first change is always made with oil with the same viscosity as indicated in the vehicle operating instructions. With a significant decrease in fork stiffness, it will be necessary to gradually increase the viscosity. by 2.5W or 5W with each subsequent replacement, depending on your personal preference. 10W oil is recommended for most touring bikes, 2.5-5W for sport and high-performance city bikes.

Do not fill the fork with regular engine oil as it will obtain the desired damping characteristics. On the canister with a special material, you can find the inscription Fork Oil or Suspension Oil. You should beware of fakes, because with low-quality oil in the fork, the motorcycle can become uncontrollable, which will lead to a serious accident.

When choosing the stiffness of the fork, you should be guided by the type of road on which the motorcycle will be used. By adding more viscous oil, you will get better damping performance and your vehicle will be more stable at high speeds. However, as the stiffness increases, the comfort will significantly decrease. on any large irregularities the driver will feel a “breakdown”, which can even knock the motorcycle off course. On the contrary, an oil that is not viscous enough for a fork will cause significant hesitation, jerking or even steering when cornering.

If the bike will only be used on quality intercity and racetrack tracks, there is nothing wrong with significantly increasing the stiffness of the fork. However, for driving on country roads and city streets with poor coverage, such settings are no longer suitable. A special case is the replacement of technical fluid in a motocross motorcycle. For him you will have to buy a special technical fluid marked “Off-Road” on the canister. Using regular road bike oil can significantly reduce the energy consumption of the suspension or even cause suspension damage.

Complete removal of the fork feathers

If you need to carry out not only an oil change, but also a high-quality flushing, revision of the insides of the pen, or if there is no lower drain hole, then the pen is removed completely. The whole process looks like this: Warming up the oil in the fork (with the brake clamped, we make the fork work as much as possible). We remove the wheel, the front fender and, if necessary, part of the dashboard, freeing the passage to the traverse fasteners. We twist the upper cover of the pen without unwinding the lower one (if any). We loosen the upper and lower traverse by removing the feather, if it does not give in, knock on it with a mallet or unscrew the bolts more strongly. We prepare a container for draining the oil, unscrew the drain bolt and drain all the grease, helping by squeezing and unclenching the plug.

Important! When draining the oil through the upper plug, the spring and bushings may fall out of the plug, we carefully remove them to the side, observing the procedure for removal.

We rinse the plug, revise the anthers and oil seals, replacing them if necessary. We install the parts removed from the pen in the reverse order and fill in the appropriate oil, its volume is indicated in the accompanying documentation and we do the whole procedure for the other pen. Putting everything in the reverse order, carefully controlling the tightening of all bolts.

If the brake discs were soiled with oil during operation, they must be treated with alcohol without fail. After all the procedures, check the operation of the mechanism. If you start to “bite”. there are air locks. there is little oil. With strong recoil, too much oil was poured onto the steering wheel. Be sure to pay attention to the condition of the plug. Here is a list of fork care: smudges. revision of oil seals and anthers; incorrect operation. checking the spring and the geometry of the mechanism; simple. full revision; suitable mileage. mandatory flushing and oil change.

Flushing is best done with low viscosity oil. Despite the fact that the oil seals are able to withstand the effects of kerosene and other flushing fluids, they still tan and fail faster.

Features of care for different types of forks

The rules of care and handling of forks differ depending on the type of mechanism. You can find out about the existing varieties in another article. Now we will take a closer look at the features of maintenance, lubrication and oil change in various types of forks.

Oil change in a BMW r1200gs fork, a Soviet heavy URAL motorcycle, a Chinese moped or any other with a telescopic fork must be mandatory. We described the basic principle and a number of nuances of this process. If you approach the work with due care, then the frightening process for many will not take much time or nerves, and your iron horse will confidently hold on to any surface.

Why and how often do you need to change the oil?

The main functions of the oil in the motorcycle fork are two. the role of a damper, and to absorb the remains of metal shavings. In the first case, the loss of oil will lead to a deterioration in ride quality, the fork will “bite”, may start to lock, etc. Such behavior not only interferes with full movement, but can also provoke an accident. Oil contaminated with metal shavings loses its lubricating properties, which leads to rapid wear of parts.

In addition, the oil should be changed when:

  • leak
  • after winter downtime
  • after a long downtime
  • within the period specified by the manufacturer

The last option is the most preferable, because most often the owners of motor vehicles carry out exactly the planned oil change in the plug. Each manufacturer specifies how often the fork lubricant should be changed. This parameter depends on both the bike type and the fork design. For urban motorcycles, it is recommended to replace it every 10-15 thousand km, and for cross-country and enduro motorcycles, this figure can drop to 5-10 thousand km.