What kind of oil to put in a bicycle fork

How to assemble and put the plug back

The process of assembling and installing a bicycle suspension fork is carried out in the reverse order. The only thing that you should carefully and carefully perform this operation in order to avoid incorrect installation of components. After you have installed the assembled fork back on the bike, secured the stem, be sure to check that there is no play in the steering tube in the frame glass. If they are observed, then be sure to eliminate them before the trip.

After you set everything up and start riding, the first time there will be an abundant release of grease through the cuffs of the bike fork pants. Don’t worry, this is normal. Over time, excess oil will be squeezed out, and this process will stop. During this period, do not be lazy, and do not forget to wash off excess lubricant after each trip.

As you may have noticed, removing, disassembling and lubricating a mountain or city bike suspension fork at home is not that difficult. The main thing is to treat this process responsibly and do everything consistently. The better you take care of your iron horse, the longer it will delight you with its trouble-free work.

Assembly and installation of the fork after lubrication

To assemble and put the plug back, you need to perform the above steps in reverse order:

  • Install 2 stems on legs and springs. Lock the adjustments on the fork legs.
  • Place the stops and stops located at the bottom on the rods.
  • Install the oil seals. Fix the pants on the legs of the fork. Tighten the bolts.
  • Put on the assembled fork. Fix the stem and other dismantled elements.
  • If there are rudder tube backlashes, eliminate them.

After inserting the lubricated fork back into the cuffs of her pants, lubricant will leak out, and this is normal. Gradually, excess lubricant will come out, and its release will stop. But for some time after lubrication, you will have to wipe off the excess of the applied composition after each rental.

Air-oil and air mechanisms

The air mechanism of the fork includes an air chamber and an oil damper

It is most difficult to work with such a bicycle fork, since its disassembly / assembly is associated with certain difficulties. The design includes an air chamber and an oil damper. Adding to the complexity is the existence of two different systems: Solo and Dual Air. In the latter version, there is not one air chamber, but two (positive and negative).

The process of servicing and changing the oil is similar to the previous diagram, which applies to oil forks. But in the case of air mechanisms, it will still be necessary to deal with air bleeding, soaking the foam rubber seals in 15W oil. When the damper and pants are installed, you will need to add 5 ml of 15W oil to the air chambers. To do this, the syringe will have to be held at an angle of 45 degrees. After installing the pistons, the chambers can be pumped: positive, followed by negative.

Now you shouldn’t have any questions about how to care for your bike fork. Your knowledge will not be enough, because it needs to be consolidated in practice. Your bike will be grateful for the care and maintenance, and your budget will not be hurt by solving problems with a fork that has received insufficient care.

an important element of the bicycle‘s propulsion system. We will tell you how to properly care for a chain on a bicycle so that it will serve for a long time and without problems.

With the development of the bicycle industry, new models are becoming more sophisticated and sophisticated. Bicycles now consist of a large number of important and expensive mechanisms. One of these is the fork, the choice of which can be much more difficult than you imagined.

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Signs of dysfunction

In order for the fork to work for a long time, the bicycle owner must from time to time service this important part.

The necessary preventive work includes:

  • applying lubricant;
  • replacement of oil seals;
  • on the alignment of the steering tube;
  • replacement of bearings.
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Particular importance is attached to lubrication. It provides superior cushioning and reduced component wear. It is performed every 400 km. If the bike is not used so intensively, then once a season this procedure must still be performed. Separately, oil seals are lubricated after 700 km of run.

These are very average recommendations. It all depends on how you use your bike. If he is daily taken out on difficult routes, then lubrication should be performed more often.

The service life of bicycle components is reduced by poor-quality surface or embossed track. It wears out especially quickly when driving on sand and abrasive materials. Experienced cyclists can identify fork dysfunction by hearing characteristic sounds. The need to debug or replace worn-out elements is determined by a knock or squeak during riding.

In addition, typical wear symptoms are:

  • backlash;
  • tight adjustability;
  • difficult steering wheel;
  • jamming.

Finally, as a result of daily visual inspection, visible defects can be found. If you find cracks in your legs or pants, urgently take action.

Algorithm for removing the plug

To remove the front fork of an e-bike:

  • Unscrew all components attached to the fork: brake caliper, speed sensor, V-brake or disc brake hose, fender, etc.
  • Remove the bolts holding the stem to the rudder tube. Unscrew the anchor bolt.
  • Taking care not to hit the brake hose, remove and lower the stem.
  • Remove the spacer rings and the guide sleeve by carefully prying it in the cutting area with a compact screwdriver. Remove the top rolling ring and bearing.
  • Carefully remove the rudder tube from the glass. Remove bearing and rolling ring underneath. Remove the bicycle wheel by unscrewing the fasteners or loosening the eccentric.

How to change (tune) the fork spring on a mountain bike. Rock Shox Recon example.

How to remove a bicycle fork

Below you will find detailed instructions for dismantling the front suspension fork with explanatory pictures.

  • First of all, we carry out preparatory work, namely, we unscrew everything that is attached to the plug. In our case, this is the brake caliper, as well as the front disc brake hose, which is clamped to the fork legs. If you have V-brakes installed, then dismantle them. This also applies to the speed sensor from the bike computer, front fender, etc.
  • Unscrew the bolts securing the stem to the steering tube, and then unscrew the bicycle fork anchor bolt.
  • Carefully remove the steering wheel together with the stem and lower it down. At this stage, you should act carefully so as not to damage the hydraulic lines or accidentally hitting the metal parts of the steering wheel on the frame, so as not to scratch the latter.
  • Remove the spacer rings and the guide sleeve (cone). To do this, carefully pry it with a small flat screwdriver in the area of ​​the cut. Then we take out the upper rolling ring and the upper bearing. All these actions are illustrated by the pictures below.
  • All operations have been completed and now you can carefully remove the steering tube from the glass. After that, it remains for us to get the bearing, the lower rolling ring and remove the front wheel. To do this, we loosen the eccentric or unscrew the fixing bolts (depending on the type of attachment). This completes the process of removing the bike fork.

Maintenance of a bicycle suspension fork is not an easy procedure and should be left to a competent mechanic. Their help is especially relevant in situations where the suspension fork works with certain difficulties, and you need to find out the cause of the problem. But if you have free time, skills and tools, maintenance of the suspension fork can be done with your own hands at home.

In addition, you need to regularly carry out preventive measures. it is recommended to lubricate the fork legs with silicone grease before each rental. It does not harm rubber, does not attract dust, does an excellent job with its tasks and does not cause difficulties when wiping off excess.

Our previous blog post provides good advice for beginners and seasoned cyclists on how to ride an e-bike for a new riding experience.

Assembly and installation of the fork after lubrication

To assemble and put the plug back, you need to perform the above steps in reverse order:

  • Install 2 stems on legs and springs. Lock the adjustments on the fork legs.
  • Place the stops and stops located at the bottom on the rods.
  • Install the oil seals. Fix the pants on the legs of the fork. Tighten the bolts.
  • Put on the assembled fork. Fix the stem and other dismantled elements.
  • If there are rudder tube backlashes, eliminate them.

After inserting the lubricated fork back into the cuffs of her pants, lubricant will leak out, and this is normal. Gradually, excess lubricant will come out, and its release will stop. But for some time after lubrication, you will have to wipe off the excess of the applied composition after each rental.

Algorithm for removing the plug

To remove the front fork of an e-bike:

  • Unscrew all components attached to the fork: brake caliper, speed sensor, V-brake or disc brake hose, fender, etc.
  • Remove the bolts holding the stem to the rudder tube. Unscrew the anchor bolt.
  • Taking care not to hit the brake hose, remove and lower the stem.
  • Remove the spacer rings and the guide sleeve by carefully prying it in the cutting area with a compact screwdriver. Remove the top rolling ring and bearing.
  • Carefully remove the rudder tube from the glass. Remove bearing and rolling ring underneath. Remove the bicycle wheel by unscrewing the fasteners or loosening the eccentric.
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How to lubricate an e-bike plug without disassembling?

For proper lubrication, the fork must be disassembled. Without disassembly, it can only be cleaned using silicone grease or industrial oil. It is enough to drip a little oil at the place where the legs of the fork enter the pants, press down on the steering wheel and perform up and down movements so that the oil penetrates deeper. After that, it remains to wipe off the excess oil and return the protective anthers to their place. After this operation, the legs of the fork remain practically dry, with a thin layer of grease. Dirt sticks to oil weakly and can be cleaned off with anthers without any problems.

oils and greases for forks. as well as a little on the brakes on mineral water

Author Message cka3o4nuk

Based on the results of experiments on my own and not only forks, I would like to share with the public a number of.

Let’s start with the oil in the pants What kind of oil can be poured into the pants can be determined by the design of the bashings.

if bashings without slots (magura and santur) The manufacturer’s recommendation indicates a grease without the use of oil, this is nonsense in the summer, and absolute delirium in winter, the plug wedges and dulls, it just does not work at all 100

in the case of such bashings, you need to pour fork oil 2.5 5v 7.5 or LHM mineral water into your pants

Oh, For Fork‘s Sake: Which Motorcycle Fork Oil Should You Use?

the system for pouring oil into these forks is slightly different from conventional forks with bashings with slots; for greater clarity, I present a diagram like this, oil is poured with the upper bushing between both bosses

on several forks, replacing the grease with LHM brought just huge changes in the smoothness of work, all the owners are more than satisfied

Further into forks with regular bashings (Fox RockShox, X-fusion, Marzocchi, Manitou)

in winter you can pour any fork oil within 10-20v

or a motorboat 10v30 10v40, they have sufficient characteristics for operation even in the minus If you plan to use it for a long time in a deep minus. we look at the oils described thinner by the deep minus. they will work just because forklifts 10-20v work at zero

in the summer, this range can be expanded to a transmission for 80–90 at 40, it provides a longer-lasting film on the surface of the bushing and does not drain into the pants. less often the need to turn the fork over so that the bushing is poured with oil, but this is real in spring in the summer. a bit thick.

the use of one oil in the plug by the manufacturer is an attempt to make it normal in any operation, both in the minus and in the metatarsus, but the task is an ideal that is often not achievable, but nevertheless it is more pleasant with it

Part 2) into the damper (leg with fork rebound)

Again, fork oils 2.5-7.5w are poured, either LHM (better in the cold) or Total Fluid LDS (even better in the cold and perfect in summer)

here everything is just enough oils for the rebound leg should ensure that the adjustments work for us, i.e., be liquid enough for rebounds and compression to work normally so that in the open state the damper is capable of pumping a large volume of oil in a short period of time

Well, the last part of the lubricant for air springs can be used, in principle, ANY lubricant that is in stock I personally used when rebuilding the forks, starting from the usual litholasolidol, then various automotive lubricants of calcium-lithium with molybdenum, then special lubricants of the Super slick type

some work a little better, some a little worse, but in general, they do not determine the real work of the fork, you can take branded ones, but do not chase the expensive ones, even ordinary pharmacy petroleum jelly will do (although technical is better) silicone lubricants are great for pneumatics

or just liquid silicone (not to be confused with silicone sealant) into the air leg in the positive spring does not interfere with adding 80v90 3-4ml in winter in good minuses, you can even 10v40 or the like

In the same way, with a shock absorber in the air chamber in the summer, you can add 1-3 ml of 80v90 in winter, the same amount of 10v40.

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Now I will add, in general, in principle, which of the oil or grease you use, by and large, does not play a special role

it is important to use an oil close to the correct viscosity and it is good when the oil is applied according to the temperature at which you are riding.

much more important is constant and correct, for forks it is on average 25-50 hours of riding. oil change in pants 100-200 hours oil change in the damper and air spring bulkhead

amorts without bulkheads live a little more, but I would recommend adding oil occasionally and disassembling at least the main jar for cleaning.

Well, for a snack, a small list with what manufacturers use

rock shox until 2013 in the damper fork 5v in pants 15c 2014 in the pants went 10v30 the motor Fox into the damper pours fork 5v 7.5v into the pants 15v air spring transmission 80v90dtswiss pours oil into the pants for the supergliss slide guides

the company was the first in the world to use an air suspension with Citroen shock absorbers; the LHM developed for them has characteristics that are more stable and better than almost any fork oil for depfer oil 2.5-7.5v features even better

Both Total Fluide LDS and LHM feel great in any hydraulic system, in particular in brakes on mineral water, you only need to pump it with a complete replacement of the native oil (that is, until all the fluid in the system becomes new) in the cold, the brakes on LDS and LHM work no worse than often and better than native Shimano mineral oil

and the last thing for those who are afraid of non-original oil understand that all forks have basically the same design what to use. the difference is not the design of the bosses of air springs and dampers differ only from patents and the convenience of manufacturing by the manufacturer with one technology or another. essentially work (viscosity must be chosen wisely)

Both LHM and LDS Fluids are shock absorber hydraulic fluids and have all the necessary characteristics for a fork damper, non-foaming and a high viscosity index (not confused with the viscosity itself)

Adding for anyone it is not a secret that we all sometimes look for something that is not at hand, and now I needed a lubricant in terms of viscosity that is somewhere between grease and oil (it will be used in the air piston of the fork)

How to cut and install a new bike fork

Solid oil, lithol mobile1 with molybdenum, technical silicone. lithol XADO with super freaks, petroleum jelly.

kind, bicycle, fork

lithol mobile practically did not absorb anything

the silicone absorbed the oil but at the same time turned white and then began to turn yellow

I mixed myself a jar of smaller grease

but it is quite possible that normal lubrication will also come out with technical vaseline

Rebound speed

This parameter will show how quickly the suspension returns to its original position after compression. How the bike can react to the next obstacle depends on this. The responsiveness of the rebound at high speed must be instantaneous so that the shock absorber has time to readjust for the next obstacle. It must be configured in such a way that the impacts received are extinguished earlier than they hit the bicycle handlebars. If the rebound speed feels insufficient, then you should start adding it with small values. Gradually bringing to ideal working conditions. It should be borne in mind that its speed depends on the thickness of the oil. Therefore, in cold periods, the rebound will be slightly delayed.

In expensive bike models, this indicator can be changed at any half of the stroke. This property is useful for extreme sports, especially for downhill, where riding involves many obstacles.

Adjusting the bike front fork and changing the fork oil

There are rigid bike forks and shock absorbers. The first ones are installed on high-speed road, triathlon, comfortable walking and cheap mountain models. They do not absorb energy while driving. To install them, you do not need to spend energy on the buildup. But such a bike fork is very uncomfortable when riding aggressively over rough terrain. It does not soften the unevenness of the road and transfers all vibrations from the surface to the steering wheel, so the rider’s hands get tired faster. And also the controllability of the bike suffers, which can lead to a fall from it. Because of these shortcomings, a suspension fork is installed in off-road models. Its device is given in the article. For a comfortable ride, such a suspension must initially be properly adjusted and then lubricated regularly.

  • articles:
  • Servicing Lubricated Fork Parts
  • Fork setting
  • Sag
  • Rebound speed
  • Compression
  • Video. Changing the oil in a bicycle fork