Bicycle fork repair
A mountain bike, and indeed almost any modern bicycle today is difficult to imagine without a shock absorption system designed to effectively and affordably increase the handling and ride comfort of this type of transport.
Most often, bicycles are equipped with a front suspension fork, thanks to which it is much easier for cyclists to overcome road bumps even at high speeds, while the load on the palms and hands during riding is minimal. By minimizing vibration, a well-matched and aligned fork extends the life of other bike components such as the frame and steering bearings.
The service life of the plug itself can be extended several times through proper care and regular maintenance.
How much oil to pour into the bike fork. Velobaggio
A procedure such as changing the oil in a motorcycle fork is intimidating not only for beginners, but also for experienced riders. Even professional mechanics often spend a lot of time doing this job as they have to deal with so many nuances. In addition, it is necessary to choose the right oil, which will allow you to obtain the required parameters of the suspension stiffness. Therefore, it is necessary to approach such a procedure only after thorough preliminary preparation.
Most manufacturers recommend changing the oil in the front suspension of a motorcycle every 12-15 thousand kilometers to ensure that the two-wheeled vehicle maintains good handling. However, experienced owners prefer to make the replacement at the same time as scheduled repairs, which include installing new seals. This allows you to obtain optimal parameters of fork stiffness without facing time-consuming and time-consuming adjustments.
It is recommended to change the oil after a winter inactivity of the motorcycle, since it can partially or completely lose its properties from low temperatures. If the motorcycle participates in sports competitions and the requirements for its handling are very high, the frequency of changing the technical fluid should be reduced to 5 thousand kilometers. Experienced drivers recommend changing the fluid when the fork becomes noticeable. This translates into deep dives when braking and destabilizing the bike at high speeds. In such a situation, it is recommended to buy a higher viscosity oil in order to make the suspension stiffer, as well as to improve the handling of the two-wheeled vehicle.
Why remove and disassemble the bike fork
A bicycle fork, like all other components, can be replaced, repaired or serviced. Therefore, before proceeding with these procedures, we need to remove it from the bike, and in some cases disassemble the shock absorber for parts. In what cases will we have to remove it? First of all, this is when it is replaced by another. Secondly, it may be necessary to replace bearings and / or support cups, apply new lubricant, and also, there are times when it is necessary to align the steering tube or perform other repair work.
Disassembling a fork shock absorber is most often necessary to replace lubricant or worn components. For example, these can be oil seals (cuffs), etc.
How to replace a fork on a bicycle?
It is not recommended for an untrained and inexperienced user to carry out: if it is possible to cope with simple care, then it is better to leave such a procedure to a qualified specialist. As a last resort, carry out the replacement under the supervision of the master, following his recommendations.
Consider the procedure for removing a fork from a bicycle.
First you need to turn the bike with the wheels up, and release the brake (in the case of a rim brake), remove the front wheel. After that, you can remove the stem with the stem and the head tube.
Then we remove directly the plug itself. It is important to ensure that the balls are not lost from the bearings when removing the fork. Any sharp object can be used to remove the tapered support ring from the fork stem. After that, you can start repairing or servicing the plug.
Next, consider the procedure for disassembling the fork (a spring-electric fork will act as an example):
- The lower fixing bolts are unscrewed using hexagons.
- The preload spring force adjustment bolt is unscrewed (it is important to remember the bolt stroke).
- An elastomer is obtained, which is responsible for the function of limiting the travel of the spring (sometimes, if necessary, you can change the size of the elastomer by cutting).
- The bolts are unscrewed and the “pants” are taken out. In this case, you need to monitor what flows out of there (dirt, water, oil).
- Anthers are taken from the “pants” with a screwdriver, as well as bosses, which for this need to be rotated around their axis.
RockShox Fork. Full Rebuild. How To Service Upper And Lower Legs. Tutorial
Further, all components are checked for cracks or other damage and washed with kerosene. Items requiring lubrication are treated with an appropriate material. It is worth noting that it is better to lubricate the spring with a thick grease, which will increase the efficiency of the bicycle fork.
Some cyclists even go through only purchased forks, trying to individually debug the device.
The process of assembling a plug is carried out in the reverse order of the parsing process, so we will not describe it.
It is better to entrust the procedure for replacing the fork on a bicycle to a qualified specialist or perform it under the supervision and according to the recommendations of the master.
As practice shows, owners can be divided into two types:
- Those who ride a bike until the last “breath” of transport, and only when all systems completely fail, think about repairing the device.
- Those who carefully monitor the condition of the bike, follow the rules for caring for it and prevent any breakdowns.
It is no secret that the approach of the first type of owners ultimately costs much more, because often it is necessary to replace the components of the bicycle that are not recoverable. In addition, there are times when the bike can no longer be saved.
In principle, experienced users are quite capable of handling fork repairs on their own, because over time, every cyclist who shows an interest in his transport will remember the name and functions of the parts, and it is no longer difficult for him to find the cause of the problem. If there is no relevant experience and skills in repairing a bicycle, then you should not experiment and it is better to contact competent specialists. In addition, ignorance of the design features of the fork itself can lead to difficulties in eliminating its breakage.
This video review will help you consolidate the acquired skills:
Signs of dysfunction
In order for the fork to work for a long time, the bicycle owner must from time to time service this important part.
The necessary preventive work includes:
- applying lubricant;
- replacement of oil seals;
- on the alignment of the steering tube;
- replacement of bearings.
Particular importance is attached to lubrication. It provides superior cushioning and reduced component wear. It is performed every 400 km. If the bike is not used so intensively, then once a season this procedure must still be performed. Separately, oil seals are lubricated after 700 km of run.
These are very average recommendations. It all depends on how you use your bike. If he is daily taken out on difficult routes, then lubrication should be performed more often.
The service life of bicycle components is reduced by poor-quality surface or relief track. It wears out especially quickly when driving on sand and abrasive materials. Experienced cyclists can identify fork dysfunction by hearing characteristic sounds. The need to debug or replace worn-out elements is determined by a knock or squeak during riding.
In addition, typical wear symptoms are:
- tight adjustability;
- difficult steering wheel;
Finally, as a result of daily visual inspection, visible defects can be found. If you find cracks in your legs or pants, urgently take action.
How and how to lubricate a bicycle fork?
Every part of the bike has its own functional meaning. The fork is designed to smooth out shocks and minimize stress on the arms. By fulfilling the amortization task, it extends the useful life of the frame. The fork is a fairly strong part, but it needs periodic preventive measures. This article explains how to lubricate a bicycle front fork.
A fork is a multicomponent element. Attached to it are the speed sensor, brake caliper, hydraulic line, fender, V-brake.
In order to remove it, you must sequentially perform the following steps:
- remove the bolts that hold the stem on the rudder tube;
- dismantle the anchor bolt;
- dismantle the steering wheel with a stem (this must be done with the utmost care, since there is a danger of damaging the hydraulic line);
- dismantle the spacer rings;
- remove the guide sleeve;
- remove the lower part of the handlebar from the retaining glass;
- remove the bearing;
- carefully remove the rolling ring.
After that, the eccentric is loosened and the wheel itself is removed.
The bike owner must have a complete set of screwdrivers. For example, to remove a guide sleeve, you need the most compact of them. Only with it can you pry the sleeve in the cutting area.
It is recommended to lay out all the dismantled elements in sequence. as they were removed. A tried and tested trick is to photograph every stage of the work. This will allow the reverse assembly to be carried out without error.
oils and greases for forks. as well as a little on the brakes on mineral water
Based on the results of experiments on my own and not only forks, I would like to share with the public a number of.
Let’s start with the oil in the pants What kind of oil can be poured into the pants can be determined by the design of the bashings.
if bashings without slots (magura and santur) The manufacturer’s recommendation indicates a grease without the use of oil, this is nonsense in the summer, and absolute delirium in winter, the plug wedges and dulls, it just does not work at all 100
in the case of such bashings, you need to pour fork oil 2.5 5v 7.5v or LHM mineral water into your pants
the system for pouring oil into these forks is a little different from conventional forks with bashings with slots; for greater clarity, I present a diagram like this is how oil is poured with the upper bushing between both bosses
on several forks, replacing the grease with LHM brought just huge changes in the smoothness of work, all the owners are more than happy
Further into forks with regular bashings (Fox RockShox, X-fusion, Marzocchi, Manitou)
3 Easy Tips to Keep Your MTB Suspension Feeling Silky Smooth!
in winter you can pour any fork oil within 10-20v
or a motorboat 10v30 10v40, they have sufficient characteristics for operation even in the minus If you plan to use it for a long time in a deep minus. we look at the oils described thinner by the deep minus. they will work just because forklifts 10-20v work at zero
in the summer, this range can be expanded to a transmission for 80–90 at 40, it provides a longer-lasting film on the surface of the bushing and does not drain into the pants. less often the need to turn the fork over so that the bushing is poured with oil, but this is real in the spring in the summer. a bit thick.
the use of one oil in the plug by the manufacturer is an attempt to make it normal in any operation, both in the minus and in the metatarsus, our task is an ideal that is often not achievable, but nevertheless it is more pleasant with it
Part 2) into the damper (leg with fork rebound)
Again, fork oils 2.5-7.5w are poured, either LHM (better in the cold) or Total Fluid LDS (even better in the cold and perfect in summer)
here everything is just enough oils for the rebound leg should ensure that the adjustments work for us, i.e., be liquid enough for rebounds and compression to work normally so that in the open state the damper is capable of pumping a large volume of oil in a short period of time
Well, the last part of the lubricant for air springs can be used, in principle, ANY lubricant that is in stock I personally used when rebuilding the forks, starting from the usual litholasolidol, then various automotive lubricants of calcium-lithium with molybdenum, then special lubricants of the Super slick type
some work a little better, some a little worse, but in general, they do not determine the real work of the fork, you can take branded ones, but do not chase the expensive ones, even ordinary pharmacy petroleum jelly will do (although technical is better) silicone lubricants are great for pneumatics
or just liquid silicone (not to be confused with silicone sealant) into the air leg in the positive spring does not interfere with adding 80v90 3-4ml in winter, you can even 10v40 or the like in good minuses
In the same way, with a shock absorber in the air chamber in the summer, you can add 1-3 ml of 80v90 in winter, the same amount of 10v40.
Now I will add, in general, in principle, which of the oil or grease you use, by and large, does not play a special role
it is important to use an oil with close to the correct viscosity and it is good when the oil is applied according to the temperature at which you are riding.
much more important is constant and correct, for forks it is on average 25-50 hours of riding. oil change in pants 100-200 hours oil change in the damper and air spring bulkhead
amorts without bulkheads live a little more, but I would recommend adding oil occasionally and disassembling at least the main jar for cleaning.
Well, for a snack, a small list with what manufacturers use
rock shox until 2013 in the damper fork 5v in the pants 15c 2014 in the pants went 10v30 the motor Fox into the damper pours the fork 5v 7.5v into the pants 15v air spring transmission 80v90dtswiss pours oil into the pants for the supergliss slide guides
the company was the first in the world to use an air suspension with Citroen shock absorbers; the LHM developed for them has characteristics that are more stable and better than almost any fork oil for depfer oil 2.5-7.5v features even better
Both Total Fluide LDS and LHM feel great in any hydraulic system, in particular in brakes on mineral water, you only need to pump it with a complete replacement of the native oil (that is, until all the fluid in the system becomes new) in the cold, the brakes on LDS and LHM work no worse than often and better than native Shimano mineral oil
and the last thing for those who are afraid of non-original oil understand all the forks have basically the same design what to use. the differences are not the design of the bosses of air springs and dampers differ only from patents and the convenience of manufacturing by the manufacturer by this or that technology. essentially work (viscosity must be chosen wisely)
Both LHM and LDS Fluids are shock absorber hydraulic fluids and have all the necessary characteristics for a fork damper, non-foaming and a high viscosity index (not confused with the viscosity itself)
Adding for anyone it is not a secret that we all sometimes look for something that is not at hand, and now I needed a lubricant in terms of viscosity that is somewhere between grease and oil (it will be used in the air piston of the fork)
Solid oil, lithol mobile1 with molybdenum, technical silicone. lithol XADO with super freaks, petroleum jelly.
lithol mobile practically did not absorb anything
the silicone absorbed the oil but at the same time turned white and then began to turn yellow
I mixed myself a jar of smaller grease
but it is quite possible that normal lubrication will also come out with technical vaseline
How to remove, disassemble and lubricate a bicycle fork
If you do not know how to remove and disassemble a mountain bike suspension fork for maintenance, repair or replacement, then this article will help you find out what you need for this, and how to do it at home. Also, such questions will be considered here: how and how to lubricate the front fork, the frequency of maintenance and other tips on this topic. All this will be presented in the form of detailed instructions with pictures for each action, as well as a video for disassembling a bicycle suspension fork. In this article, we will analyze the RST GILA 100 mm spring-elastomer fork with disc brake mountings.
This parameter will show how quickly the suspension returns to its original position after compression. How the bike can react to the next obstacle depends on this. The responsiveness of the rebound at high speed must be instantaneous so that the shock absorber has time to readjust for the next obstacle. It must be configured in such a way that the impacts received are extinguished earlier than they hit the bicycle handlebars. If the rebound speed feels insufficient, then you should start adding it with small values. Gradually bringing to ideal working conditions. It should be borne in mind that its speed depends on the thickness of the oil. Therefore, in cold periods, the rebound will be slightly delayed.
In expensive bike models, this indicator can be changed at any half of the stroke. This property is useful for extreme sports, especially for downhill, where riding involves many obstacles.
How to remove a bicycle fork
Below you will find detailed instructions for dismantling the front suspension fork with explanatory pictures.
- First of all, we carry out preparatory work, namely, we unscrew everything that is attached to the plug. In our case, this is the brake caliper, as well as the front disc brake hose, which is clamped to the fork legs. If you have V-brakes installed, then dismantle them. This also applies to the speed sensor from the bike computer, front fender, etc.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the stem to the steering tube, and then unscrew the bicycle fork anchor bolt.
- Carefully remove the steering wheel together with the stem and lower it down. At this stage, you should act carefully so as not to damage the hydraulic lines or accidentally hitting the metal parts of the steering wheel on the frame, so as not to scratch the latter.
- Remove the spacer rings and the guide sleeve (cone). To do this, carefully pry it with a small flat screwdriver in the area of the cut. Then we take out the upper rolling ring and the upper bearing. All these actions are illustrated by the pictures below.
- All operations have been completed and now you can carefully remove the steering tube from the glass. After that, it remains for us to get the bearing, the lower rolling ring and remove the front wheel. To do this, we loosen the eccentric or unscrew the fixing bolts (depending on the type of attachment). This completes the process of removing the bike fork.
Proper care of your bike fork, oil change
The bike needs to be cared for. this is a well-known fact. But in its design there are expensive and capricious details that require increased attention. We are talking, of course, about a fork, in which you need to periodically change the oil and carry out preventive maintenance. Otherwise, you will have to buy a new plug, and the cost of a good model can start from several hundred dollars and go up to several thousand. Bicycle fork lubrication is a mandatory process that will prolong the operation of the mechanism, as well as save you from serious problems and expensive repairs.
Bicycle fork lubrication is a mandatory process that allows you to prolong the operation of the mechanism