What kind of oil is in the bike fork

As you may have noticed, removing, disassembling and lubricating a mountain or city bike suspension fork at home is not that difficult. The main thing is to treat this process responsibly and do everything consistently. The better you take care of your iron horse, the longer it will delight you with its trouble-free work.

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How to disassemble a bicycle suspension fork

After we have removed the suspension fork from the bike, old used grease should be removed from all of the above components, namely the bearings, cups and raceways, as well as the steering tube and other areas. It’s not worth applying a new one yet, we will add it back to the glass at the stage of installing the plug.

Next, let’s start disassembling the shock absorber for further lubrication replacement.

  • Turn the fork over and unscrew the mounting bolts.
    kind, bike, fork
  • We remove the pants from the legs of the fork. If necessary, remove the oil seals.
  • We remove used lubricant from all accessible surfaces. This procedure can be left for later and performed after complete disassembly, but it is preferable to do it right away in order to avoid oily marks on clothes, tools, etc. Do not forget to remove dirt and grease from the cuffs of the bicycle fork, as well as from the inside of the pants themselves.
  • Then remove the lower travel stops and stop stops. To do this, we apply a little effort and pull them off the rods.
  • We unscrew the adjustments on each of the fork legs. They are unscrewed using a special key, which, unfortunately, we did not have. Therefore, we had to make our own self-made key for these cases. We will attach a photo below, suddenly someone will come in handy. We take out the springs with caps and elastomers, as well as two rods (one from each leg).
  • Removing old grease from all fork surfaces.

This completes the process of disassembling the bicycle fork shock absorber. Next, apply new grease. What can be used as a lubricant, we will consider below.

How to assemble a bike fork?

The assembly of the plug takes place in the reverse order of the parsing process and it is impractical to describe it additionally. The main thing is to carefully follow the order of the described procedures.

Consider the procedure for removing a fork from a bicycle.

First you need to turn the bike with the wheels up, and after releasing the brake (in the case of a rim brake), remove the front wheel. After that, you can remove the stem with the stem and the head tube.

Then we remove directly the plug itself. It is important to ensure that the balls are not lost from the bearings when removing the fork. Any sharp object can be used to remove the tapered support ring from the fork stem. After that, you can start repairing or servicing the plug.

Next, consider the procedure for disassembling the fork (a spring-electric fork will act as an example):

  • The lower fixing bolts are unscrewed using hexagons.
  • The preload spring force adjustment bolt is unscrewed (it is important to remember the bolt stroke).
  • An elastomer is obtained, which is responsible for the function of limiting the travel of the spring (sometimes, if necessary, you can change the size of the elastomer by cutting).
  • The bolts are unscrewed and the pants are taken out. In this case, you need to monitor what flows out of there (dirt, water, oil).
  • Anthers are taken out of the pants with a screwdriver, as well as bosses, which for this need to be rotated around their axis.

Further, all components are checked for cracks or other damage and washed with kerosene. Items requiring lubrication are treated with an appropriate material. It is worth noting that it is better to lubricate the spring with a thick grease, which will increase the efficiency of the bicycle fork.

Some cyclists even go through only purchased forks, trying to individually debug the device.

The fork assembly process is performed in the reverse order of the parsing process, so we will not describe it.

It is better to entrust the procedure for replacing the fork on a bicycle to a qualified specialist or perform it under the supervision and according to the recommendations of the master.

As practice shows, owners can be divided into two types:

  • Those who ride a bike until the last breath of transport, and only when all systems completely fail, think about repairing the device.
  • Those who carefully monitor the condition of the bike, follow the rules for caring for it and prevent any breakdowns.

It is no secret that the approach of the first type of owners ultimately costs much more, because often it is necessary to replace the components of the bicycle that are not recoverable. In addition, there are times when the bike can no longer be saved.

In principle, experienced users are quite capable of handling fork repairs on their own, because over time, every cyclist who shows an interest in his transport will remember the name and functions of the parts, and it is no longer difficult for him to find the cause of the problem. If there is no relevant experience and skills in repairing a bicycle, then you should not experiment and it is better to contact competent specialists. In addition, ignorance of the design features of the fork itself can lead to difficulties in eliminating its breakage.

This video review will help you consolidate the acquired skills:

Is it worth it to repair a bicycle fork yourself??

Of course, without the appropriate experience and skills in repairing bicycles, it is better not to take risks and turn to competent specialists. But over time, every cyclist who is more or less interested in his vehicle begins to understand the intricacies, remember the name of the parts and their functions, and feel the root of the problems. Therefore, over time, even such a difficult thing as repairing a plug can become an easy procedure.

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Difficulties may arise due to the design features of the fork itself or its breakage.

As a rule, the owners are divided into two types: some prefer to ride a bike until all systems fail and it will be impossible to save such a patient, others carefully monitor the condition of the bike and prevent any breakdowns.

How to remove, disassemble and lubricate a bicycle fork

If you do not know how to remove and disassemble a mountain bike suspension fork for maintenance, repair or replacement, then this article will help you find out what you need for this, and how to do it at home. Also, such questions will be considered here: how and how to lubricate the front fork, the frequency of maintenance and other tips on this topic. All this will be presented in the form of detailed instructions with pictures for each action, as well as a video for disassembling a bicycle suspension fork. In this article, we will analyze the RST GILA 100 mm spring-elastomer fork with disc brake mountings.

  • dropout states;
  • fork legs for dents, scuffs and other marks;
  • oil seals (anthers) for mechanical damage and oil leaks from under them;
  • pressure in air chambers;
  • presence and condition of lateral leg play in pants;
  • the condition of the fastening bolts under the forks and the adjustment knobs.

Internal fork design

Without going into details, let’s say that modern forks are a tube-in-tube design. Between these pipes there is a spacer (bushing) which reduces the play between the pipes and, by reducing friction, allows them to slide into each other. All this is abundantly lubricated with oil, and is closed from the environment with oil seals and anthers. Also, next to the oil seals and anthers there may be a foam rubber ring soaked in oil. This allows for more bushing lubrication and less friction.

Bicycle fork repair

A mountain bike, and indeed almost any modern bicycle today, is difficult to imagine without a shock absorption system designed to effectively and affordably increase the controllability and ride comfort of this type of transport.

Most often, bicycles are equipped with a front suspension fork, thanks to which it is much easier for cyclists to overcome road bumps even at high speeds, while the load on the palms and hands during riding is minimal. By minimizing vibration, a well-matched and aligned fork extends the life of other bike components such as the frame and steering bearings.

The lifespan of the plug itself can be extended several times through proper care and regular maintenance.

How to remove, disassemble and lubricate a bicycle fork

If you do not know how to remove and disassemble a mountain bike suspension fork for maintenance, repair or replacement, then this article will help you find out what you need for this, and how to do it at home. Also, such questions will be considered here: how and how to lubricate the front fork, the frequency of maintenance and other tips on this topic. All this will be presented in the form of detailed instructions with pictures for each action, as well as a video for disassembling a bicycle suspension fork. In this article, we will analyze the RST GILA 100 mm spring-elastomer fork with disc brake mountings.

What makes work worse

Contrary to popular belief, the quality of the fork’s performance deteriorates not due to the degradation of some lubricating properties of the oil, but precisely due to the ingress of dirt and dust into the fork. Dirt mixed with oil forms an abrasive, which slowly but surely begins to rip off the protective coating from the legs and bosses of the fork. If you want your fork to serve you for a long time and efficiently, then it is necessary that dirt does not get inside the fork.

As you may have noticed, removing, disassembling and lubricating a mountain or city bike suspension fork at home is not that difficult. The main thing is to treat this process responsibly and do everything consistently. The better you take care of your iron horse, the longer it will delight you with its trouble-free work.

Bicycle fork care. How to properly service the plug?

Bicycle fork is a rather capricious detail and requires special attention from the bike owner. First of all, it is necessary to regularly carry out preventive inspection and, if necessary, repair and replace individual parts of the mechanism, as well as change the oil. Considering that high-quality forks are not cheap, it is advisable not to neglect the recommendations for the care of this part.

Inspection of the technical condition of the fork, at best, should be carried out before each trip in order to avoid unpleasant surprises along the way. A more thorough examination should be at least once a week. These measures will help extend the life of your fork and avoid overhaul costs.

Necessary tools for fork maintenance: screwdriver, wrench and adjustable wrench, passages and others. Caring for a bicycle fork does not require any special skills; not only an experienced, but also a beginner cyclist can handle this task. Therefore, most often preventive repairs do without the involvement of specialists.

  • The bike is installed with the wheels up
  • Front wheel, handlebar and stem are removable
  • Next, the cone wheel is removed from the stem

During the dismantling process, you need to carefully monitor the details so as not to lose the balls from the bearing. After carrying out these manipulations, you can proceed directly to work with the plug itself.

  • Using a hexagon, the lower fork bolts are unscrewed
  • Then the adjusting bolt is unscrewed
  • And the elastomer is removed
  • Remaining bolts and pants are removed
  • Removing the oil seals and bushings

If you notice a decrease in fork travel and poor performance of adjustments, then it’s time to repair it, or change the oil. Immediately after purchase, it is recommended to immediately disassemble the plug and pour in fresh oil, then its work will be most effective.

Why remove and disassemble the bike fork

A bicycle fork, like all other components, can be replaced, repaired or serviced. Therefore, before proceeding with these procedures, we need to remove it from the bike, and in some cases disassemble the shock absorber for parts. In what cases will we have to remove it? First of all, this is when it is replaced by another. Secondly, it may be necessary to replace bearings and / or support cups, apply new lubricant, and also, there are times when it is necessary to align the steering tube or perform other repair work.

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Disassembling a fork shock absorber is most often necessary to replace lubricant or worn components. For example, these can be oil seals (cuffs), etc.

Care rules

Caring for a fork is a simple and understandable process for everyone, so you shouldn’t take your bike to a specialist for prophylaxis. You just need not to be lazy and to carry out preventive maintenance of this important and expensive unit with a clear frequency:

  • Every 150, or better 100 km, the fork needs to be cleaned and lubricated.
  • Pants are more prone to cracking than usual, so this area should be inspected for cracks.
  • Dismantling and lubrication of oil seals should be carried out every 500-1000 km.
  • An oil change in the bicycle fork is carried out every 4 thousand km.

Constantly referring to specialists is not an option. Better to learn to look after your iron horse yourself. To work with a fork, you need to stock up on some tools:

questions arise with the choice of lubricant, because this market niche is filled to the limit and it is not always easy to choose the right product from such a variety. Two types of lubricants have shown themselves well:

  • Teflon grease is usually applied to the legs of the fork; for the convenience of the user, such a product is produced in the form of aerosols;
  • silicone greases and transparent greases.

A clean fork is much less likely to cause problems for the user, so it is important to wipe your feet on the fork, which are located near the boots, after each ride. These simple steps will keep the oil clean.

Oil and spring-oil mechanisms

In such designs, there is an oil cartridge, which is located in one of the two legs. This element serves as a damper. If the maintenance of the bicycle fork is regular and of high quality, then it will delight you with good shock absorption and long-term operation.

If the fork is moved for the first time after the purchase, then its work becomes much better than it was before. This state of affairs is explained by the fact that the internal parts are rubbed against each other, and after washing and pouring fresh oil, they begin to work as a well-coordinated mechanism. You need to buy two types of oil for the forks, which differ in viscosity. The first oil will be damping, its viscosity does not exceed 5W, the second oil with a viscosity of 15W is lubricating.

If in the forks of these two types, the oil seals are replaced in a timely manner, then the work of the bushings or guide elements can be extended. But replacing these elements is not cheap, and a serious fork repair or, in general, replacing it will be even more expensive. Therefore, it is better to change the oil seals in a timely manner and not know the problems.

Every month or after 50 hours of work, it is necessary to sort out, engage in lubrication, change the oil (if necessary) and rubber bands. You can find out that the oil for the bike fork needs to be replaced by a number of signs: reduced fork travel, worse rebound, poor adjustment.

Maintenance of the elastomer is not required here, as in the previous case, but there is a need to replace the damping oil. The mechanism of interest to us is in the right leg. To change the oil, you must do the following:

There are times when the oil does not stop leaking. This situation can arise due to improper positioning of the seal or insufficient screwing of the damper. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the damper until the thread is exposed. We assess the condition of the seal, lubricate the gum and screw the damper back.

Elastomeric spring mechanisms

This fork needs to be lubricated every season, and maybe several times a season when driving actively. This process consists of just a few stages:

  • with a syringe, oil is poured under the boot;
  • the fork is being developed;
  • oil residues are removed with a rag.

To carry out some manipulations with the plug, you must be able to remove and install it back. Forks are of different types, but the dismantling process is based on general principles, therefore, the operation scheme described below is relevant in any case.

  • Install the bike with the wheels up and dismantle the front wheel.
  • Removing the steering gear and stem.
  • During dismantling, we act very carefully so as not to lose the balls from the bearing. Using a sharp object, remove the tapered ring from the stem, squeezing it from all sides.

We coped with the dismantling, but what about the dismantling of the mechanism itself? There is nothing complicated in this process either. The work will be carried out according to the following scheme:

  • We unscrew the lower bolts with a hexagon.
  • Do the same job with the Preload spring adjusting bolt.
  • Removing the elastomer.
  • Remove the pants and unscrew the bolts. Something will flow out of them, it can be oil, water and dirt.

Using a screwdriver, remove the oil seals and bushings, scrolling the latter around the axis beforehand.

What kind of oil to put in a bicycle fork

The bike needs maintenance. this is a fact known to all. But in its design there are expensive and capricious details that require increased attention. We are talking, of course, about a fork, in which you need to periodically change the oil and carry out preventive maintenance. Otherwise, you will have to buy a new plug, and the cost of a good model can start from several hundred dollars and go up to several thousand. Bicycle fork lubrication is a mandatory process that will prolong the operation of the mechanism, as well as save you from serious problems and expensive repairs.

Features of caring for various forks

The rules of care and handling of forks differ depending on the type of mechanism. You can find out about the existing varieties in another article. Now we will take a closer look at the features of maintenance, lubrication and oil change in various types of forks.

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Air-oil and air mechanisms

It is most difficult to work with such a bicycle fork, since its disassembly / assembly is associated with certain difficulties. The design includes an air chamber and an oil damper. Adding to the complexity is the existence of two different systems: Solo and Dual Air. In the latter version, there is not one air chamber, but two (positive and negative).

The process of servicing and changing the oil is similar to the previous diagram, which applies to oil forks. But in the case of air mechanisms, it will still be necessary to deal with air bleeding, soaking the foam rubber seals in 15W oil. When the damper and pants are installed, you will need to add 5 ml of 15W oil to the air chambers. To do this, the syringe will have to be held at an angle of 45 degrees. After installing the pistons, the chambers can be pumped: positive, followed by negative.

Now you shouldn’t have any questions about how to care for your bike fork. Your knowledge will not be enough, because it needs to be consolidated in practice. Your bike will be grateful for the care and maintenance, and your budget will not be hurt by solving problems with a fork that has received insufficient care.

Also increased the stroke. The manufacturer puts thick grease into the epicon, but in my opinion this is not enough (my fork was dull). There will be no definite answer, because in the official manual, oil is not supposed to be poured into the pants. On the forums, people are pouring from a forklift 5w to a thick transmission, but everyone has come to the conclusion that something is better than nothing. Pour about 15ml into each leg. I’ve tried both (for lack of other options) and both were better than no oil. I liked the transmission more, it is more slippery. Rumor has it that engine oils corrode oil seals and seals, but many pour and nothing happens. If your epicon was released after 2010, then there should be foam rubber rings under the anthers, which must be moistened, and they will lubricate the legs, gradually displacing the oil from themselves. I didn’t have them.

If you splash, squeeze the plug, then splash again and leave to stand overnight, a silicone film is formed, which then lasts all day while driving and significantly improves the performance of the plug. With silicone, the epicon came to life, but temporarily. The oil in the pants improves the situation. Now I have a recon 351, does not need silicone, with oil in my pants (15w or transmission), the breakaway force is minimal.

Judging by the fact that you have a rm aggressor (and therefore a fork of the same category), then buy silicone grease and spray before driving on the legs of the fork. But dirt will stick to your feet, and then penetrate inside due to bad anthers.

I worked in jerks without oil. Without oil, the coating on the feet can be quickly ditched.

Edited September 2, 2012 by Mr.nvr

Let me remind you that this material is not an instruction manual and a guide for the selection of lubricants. Everything is based on purely personal experience. Some lubricants do not need to be replaced for the entire life of the assembly, or even the entire bike. Some nodes are simply unattended. I strongly recommend that maintenance be carried out at authorized service centers, and in the absence of such, at qualified mechanics with straight hands. It will prevent many sorrows, believe me.

Fork. We will assume that you have an air plug. this is where the maximum variety of oils is. 3-4 types. This can only be understood from the bulkhead. The weirdest oil is the liquid seal of the air chamber. The most viscous, it is poured in a small volume directly into the air chamber. Rock Shox recommends filling with 15W fork oil, FOX offers its own. Without a liquid seal, the air chamber will etch air and the rubber rings on the piston will most likely not last long. The damper contains fork oil. Different manufacturers of different viscosities, in accordance with the manuals. I am using Motul.

The rear shock is functionally and structurally very similar to a fork. And the oils are used there the same as in the fork.

Separately, it should be added that it is permissible to replace oils recommended by the manufacturer only with those that are similar in purpose and characteristics. Fork / shock absorber. hydraulic fork oil only. It is categorically impossible to pour any motor there. They have too different purposes.

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Wheels. Everything is simple here. grease in the bearings and sealant, if desired, in the chambers. Any grease is suitable for lubricating the bearings of the bushings. Litol, CIATIM, their foreign counterparts (thousands of them), Teflon greases (for example, Weldtite TF2), SHRUS greases. all the variety of modern greases is suitable for use. Personally, I prefer to use Teflon grease. If you have industrial bearing bushings, there is no need to worry about lubrication. They have already been lubricated at the factory. CIATIM or its analog. If you have tubeless tires, then you cannot do without a special sealant. Something like that

The situation is about the same with the steering wheel and the carriage. Carriages have long been made maintenance-free. so you don’t have to lubricate the carriage.

Let’s summarize. A bicycle, of course, is simpler than a car in many respects, but modern technologies that have made your bicycle a comfortable, fast and relatively safe sports equipment are in no way inferior to automobile ones. Consequently, the level of service of a modern bicycle must correspond to the applied technologies. You probably shouldn’t be surprised at the number of consumables, lubricants and additional chemicals. for tubeless tires WD-40 Gasoline Chain lubricant In addition to this list, you can recommend various cleaners, polishes, dirt repellents, etc.

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