Grease for bushings, bearings and carriages
No matter how hermetically sealed the internal mechanisms may seem under the caps and rubber bands, dirt, salt, sand and other chemicals used in the winter season can get inside. As a result, the inner surface of the carriage, the bushing and the bearings themselves are destroyed. Some tools may be required depending on the type of bearing. However, if you are an experienced cyclist, then you already have the necessary set of tools.
It is worth re-cleaning and lubricating before the winter season begins. But this does not mean that it will only need to be applied once. Parts may need to be cleaned and lubricated several more times. It depends on its properties. For bushings and carriages, the frost-resistant, lithium bike lubricant Motorrex is suitable. You can also use Shimano Premuim bike lubricant for bearings.
Why use a different bike lubricant in winter
During the winter, the temperature indicator drops below zero, which in itself is inconvenient. In addition, this removes from functioning some of the bike mechanisms that were not prepared.
In this case, we pay attention precisely to the parts that require replacement of the lubricant, to a less viscous one, so that it does not freeze and is more resistant to moisture.
Therefore, when choosing a bicycle lubricant specifically for the winter season, pay attention to its properties.
You need to apply the lubricant in a warm room so that it can seep out and reach the parts that really need it, namely the rollers and connecting links. After that, you can take out the bike, but first into the entrance, so that the temperature regime does not have a sharp drop, and only then to the street.
Choosing a bicycle lubricant in the winter season
A true bike rider takes great care of his bike, paying particular attention to small parts and places that need lubrication. Bicycle lubrication in such parts can deteriorate and deplete over time, therefore it is necessary to carry out maintenance, including cleaning and reapplication, and, if necessary, replacement or repair of individual parts.
The frequency of such events depends on many factors, but their number increases in winter. Due to the negative effects of low temperatures, snow, salt and other substances, parts, connections and cables can deteriorate faster, the chain, bushing and bearings deserve special attention. However, it is difficult to understand what kind of bicycle lubricant to use in winter for a bicycle in order to keep it in service, because not all summer lubricants can be fully used and not spoil the bicycle.
Lubrication of cables in winter
In winter, many cyclists do not lubricate the cable or are simply too lazy to do it. The first ones refer to the fact that if you use lubricant, then various nasty things in the form of salt, sand and other will stick to the cables even more.
Perhaps this is so, but it will happen if only lubricated with something. But if the bike owner uses a special lubricant, then at least he will ensure the long-term operation of this whole complex of parts.
How to lubricate the chain
In winter, this element is constantly exposed to cold, mud and snow, which flies off the wheels. Therefore, you need to lubricate, and sometimes change the bicycle chain to a spare.
For example, owners who actively ride in the winter have several chains that change after 25 or more km.
Be sure to clean the chain before applying the lubricant, wash it in a special agent or kerosene. Let dry and reapply lubricant.
From the above, we can conclude that bicycle lubrication during winter time plays an important role for the proper functioning of the entire bike. Therefore, the owner must take care of systematic lubrication or, in the absence of such an opportunity, a regular trip to the mechanics for maintenance.
If you yourself decided to prepare your bike for riding in the winter season, then check the quality and properties of the bike lubricant when choosing. It must withstand low temperatures and be moisture resistant.
The use of lubricant is the key to easy and good bike performance. After all, it is much more convenient to climb on a bike than to stop and manually raise the transport due to frozen bearings or a dried chain, and there can also be much more unpleasant consequences for the bike, bursting tires, constant creaking, complete failure.
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In normal, comfortable driving conditions, cables and shirts greatly affect gear shift clarity and braking performance. In winter, they should be given double attention. Before starting winter operation, it is better to replace all cable drives with new ones. If this fails, then rinse thoroughly, grease them with a less viscous grease and replace the sealed tips.
How and what kind of bicycle lubricant to use in winter
You should never deny yourself pleasure. Especially on an instinctive level. If the morning starts with a bike, then nothing can get in the way of cycling. The person must go. No winter, no apocalypses will stop a real ideological bike biker.
Fuck the lyrics. It’s time to move on to physics. Or rather, to chemistry. Bicycle lubrication in cold, or not very cold, but still winter conditions is a matter of paramount importance.
All mechanisms and components of the bicycle, from the cables to the last bearing, wear out twice as fast in winter. And they require more regular and attentive care. For obvious reasons. saline or other chemically active agent for sprinkling roads, sand, mud, snow adhesion to components and mechanisms, frost. First of all, open areas of the undercarriage are affected. Winter lubrication plays a key role here.
How To Apply Grease & Lube To Your Mountain Bike
For example, for bushings and carriages, lithium frost-resistant (up to 50 ° C) Motororex is a white grease. For chain lubrication, KLS Chain Oil has proven itself very well in difficult conditions of deep minus. We can also recommend Weldtite Teflon grease in a green tube. Winter quality automotive engine oil is also great. For example, Mobil 5v30. It is bluish in color and is available in tall bottles.
Most often, banal kerosene is used for flushing. It is not recommended, nevertheless, to use it, since not all types of plastic are resistant to kerosene. White spirit is also suitable, and even diesel fuel. They, of course, do not have a pleasant aroma, but they do their job.
Grease, Lubricant, Threadlock, Fibregrip: What & Where Should You Use It?
Lubrication requires a special approach. The lubricant must have a lower viscosity than summer, otherwise it will simply freeze and become ineffective. It is best to lubricate with warmth to allow oil to penetrate the links and rollers. The enveloping properties of the lubricant in warmth, of course, will become better and with deep penetration, even in the cold, they will become more effective.
As for the chain, many recommend having them 3-4 pieces and changing every 200-300 km, which will significantly extend the life of each of them, including the stars.
Carriage and bushings
In severe frost, the rubber of the oil seals and hermetic seals almost completely lose their elasticity. Sand, chemical muck, and salts also actively penetrate the bearings. Therefore, it is necessary to disassemble, thoroughly wash and lubricate the bearings of the wheel bushings and carriages before winter. Water, getting through the frozen oil seal, freezes and does not come out, remaining in the bearings. Therefore, you should rinse and grease them 2-3 times during the winter.
Bicycle lubrication. When to lubricate your bike?
The bicycle is a complex technological device with many rotating and rubbing nodes. And like any mechanism, these units require lubrication. No, of course you don’t need to lubricate (many stupid cyclists do this), but you and I are sensible people and we understand that lubrication significantly increases the service life of parts. Without lubrication, the surface of the parts begins to rust and collapse, the rolling becomes intermittent, and the nodes begin to seize. After a short time, the bike may refuse to ride without lubrication altogether. Therefore, bicycle lubrication is a must.
Before starting lubrication, the bike should be washed, rinsed out of used lubricant, cleaned parts and prepared for applying new, fresh lubricant. To disassemble and clean the knots, you will need a standard set of tools, but to clean and wash the chain, you may need a device called simply: a chain washer, or a chain washing machine.
- Consistent lubricants. Thick lubricants, durable and resistant to temperature extremes. It would seem the best option for any node. But no. it is not easy to apply them, because you need to get into the most rubbing place, like a pin of a chain, for example. And getting there with thick grease, oh, how difficult it is. Dust and dirt constantly adhere to such a lubricant.
- Liquid lubricants. This type of lubricant is very easy to apply pointwise to any unit without smearing anything around. Waste grease from outside the lubricated parts can be easily removed. The big disadvantages of this type of grease is that they run off the lubricated parts and that they change the viscosity when the temperature changes.
- Two-component greases. This lubricant can be applied pointwise, it penetrates well into the lubricated units. Even if it is a closed unit, such as an industrial bearing or chain pins. The disadvantage of this type of lubricant is the spray of aerosol past the lubricated nodes.
Let us dwell in more detail and find out what lubricants are needed for certain units.
Greases. They are usually sold in cans or tubes. This grease is used in places where dust and dirt are difficult to enter. Chains can also be coated with this lubricant for winter storage. They have varieties: lithium, calcium oils, graphite lubricants, technical petroleum jelly. Let’s dwell on them in more detail.
- Lithium oils. The lithium compounds in this grease are designed to reduce friction between surfaces and they extend the temperature range of the grease, from 50 ° C to 180 ° C. Lubricants of this type do not resist water well, but they are washed off for a long time. within a year. All lithium greases have a significant drawback. they react with aluminum, destroying it. Most modern bicycles are made of aluminum, so be careful when using this type of lubricant, do not let the grease get on the aluminum parts of the frame and bicycle assemblies. A common advantage of lithium greases is their lower cost relative to other greases.
- Calcium oils. Calcium greases are in many ways similar to lithium ones, even by their color it can be difficult to distinguish them. they are yellow and greenish in color. This type of grease has good adhesion to metal surfaces and is best used in places where water often gets in: wheel hubs, pedal ball grease. Calcium greases can be used to coat any metal surface, because calcium greases hardly react with metal surfaces. A relative disadvantage is a smaller temperature range in which calcium greases retain their properties: from 30 ° C to 50 ° C. Examples of calcium lubricants include domestic Uniol and the well-known Solidol.
- Graphite greases. This type of grease is universal and has one good distinguishing property. when the liquid component of the grease burns out or dries up, a thin layer of graphite still remains on the surface and reduces friction of the surfaces even under heavy loads. Surely, many users of bicycles and older cars remember that they used to use such a method of lubrication as pro-welding in graphite. graphite grease. This laborious and far from the most convenient method of lubrication is now a thing of the past. there are many two-component lubricants, and there is no need to cook parts in graphite lubricant. Although if someone wants to remember how it was, no one bothers 🙂 The disadvantage of lubricants of this type is the strong soiling of the lubricant. it stains everything it comes into contact with.
- Technical petroleum jelly. Lubricant, the least purified from impurities. It is usually used for conservation, since it creates a film on the surface, which perfectly protects the metal from corrosion. Also, this lubricant can be used to lubricate bicycle cables.
Liquid lubricants. Most of us are familiar with machine and transmission lubricants. These lubricants are usually sold in grease fittings or syringes. Like all lubricants, they are hygroscopic, that is, the ability to absorb water and quickly turn into sticky dirt. Can be quickly washed off with water. When using the bike in good weather, the need to lubricate the bike 1-2 times a month. Be careful when lubricating. these oils will destroy the rubber of your tires! Try not to get on the tires when lubricating, if you do not need to replace them 🙂 Liquid is also applied to the cables, but it quickly drains from them and you will need to lubricate them frequently with such oil. Liquid oils are used as a working fluid in suspension forks and lubricate the fork legs with it.
Two-component greases. Suitable for lubricating various switches, lubricating all kinds of threads and connections. Application method. aerosol, perfectly envelops the assembly or joint and gets into the smallest cracks, lubricating the joint. The big disadvantage of such lubricants is that the lubricant is sprayed on the places that require lubrication and on everything around this unit. Therefore, get ready to invent stencils and screens so that this grease does not get on anything other than the lubricated assembly.
How often to lubricate the bike?
Definitely, the bike should be lubricated at the beginning and at the end of the season, in addition, lubrication is necessary after extreme riding and after getting into heavy rain. The chain requires lubrication every 100-300 km, depending on the type of lubricant.
Alternative lubrication methods.
In addition to these lubricants, some experienced cyclists recommend boiling a bicycle chain in paraffin. The paraffin is melted in a metal container, after which a chain is placed there and mixed so that the paraffin gets into the pins themselves. After which, as stated, the chain does not need lubrication, it runs quietly and is completely non-marking. One such brewing is enough for 100-200 km with the initial use of paraffin, 300-500 km starting with the second brewing. This method of lubrication has the right to life, but it is far from always possible to use it. On a hike, for example. And 200-300 km is not such a large mileage and you will have to produce this lubricant quite often. And it is not very convenient to take off and put on the chain with each lubrication.
In principle, the chain should only be lubricated with lubricants intended for the chain. Lubricants designed specifically for lubricating the chain contain all the additives and fillings that lubricate the chain and, importantly, prevent dust and dirt from adhering to the chain. If you lubricate the chain with machine, transmission oil, then after an extremely short time your chain will turn into something covered with a thick layer of black, dirty mass. Sand and dust associated with such a lubricant will fall on the friction surfaces and you will not get anything but crunch, braking and colossal wear of the chain parts. And of course, pedaling will be difficult.
Bicycle lubrication. How to properly lubricate your bike?
Is lubrication harmful?
Many may think not. However, it is not. When lubricating, be sure not to get any grease on parts of the bike that do not need to be lubricated. This can lead not only to the fact that the bike will be dirty, but also to much more serious consequences: frame corrosion, destruction of tire rubber.
Excessive lubrication of the transmission results in the transformation of the star-chain system into a continuous dirty and sticky plasticine, which will quickly destroy both the chain and the stars. When carrying out lubrication work, make sure that the grease has got into all lubricated units, remove excess, wipe the surfaces dry. After the lubrication is done, it is necessary to twist, operate the lubricated unit, so that the lubricant gets on the entire lubricated surface: turn the pedals, turn the steering column, press the brake levers, turn the wheels.
What can be lubricated with WD-40?
We are forced to dwell on such a question as the use of the WD-40 product. Can and should this handy aerosol can be used? We answer with confidence. no!
The WD-40 product is a solvent with a small proportion of kerosene, which many people take for a lubricant, since it really lubricates rubbing parts, but only for untwisting and removing sticky parts. This grease dries out very quickly and the lubrication effect disappears. And the friction remains. And the development of parts will not take long.!
A bicycle is a complex technological device and, before lubricating it, you need to know a little about its components and details. In addition, you should find out that you certainly do not need to lubricate. Lubricating these parts can destroy the parts and possibly even cause injury. We wrote above about preventing the ingress of grease on tires. Also, the grease should not come into contact with the rims and brake rotor. It is very difficult to remove it from there. And, it is quite possible that even their replacement will be required, because the brake in a bicycle is one of the most important parts.
And finally, if you want all the components of your bike to work properly and last longer, use lubricants that are designed for a narrow area of use. Having 2-3 types of lubricants, you will protect yourself from unnecessary costs, loss of comfort and riding pleasure! Have a nice ride!
Bicycle Component Lubrication
Regular lubrication of your bike is essential for its practical performance as well as for the long shelf life of its components. Here we will tell you how, as well as with what, to lubricate all moving parts of the bike, in particular the chain. For lubrication, it is recommended to use only lubricants formulated for bicycles.
If, nevertheless, you want to miss the pads, then keep in mind that in this case, you will have to brake with something else
Types of lubricants:
These lubricants are most commonly used for the rear hub brake drum. Also on modern bicycles they are used for chain lubrication.
They are used to lubricate bearings, cables, threaded connections. Sold mainly in tubes.
1) Lithium greases. An example of such a grease is Lithium Grease (Weldtite). The characteristic of this grease is resistance to temperature changes. (They retain their properties in the range from 50º to 180º) They are easily washed out with water, which is their disadvantage. This type of lubricant is most often used.
2) Calcium greases. Unlike lithium greases, they are more waterproof and poorly washed out with water, although they are much more sensitive to temperature (retain their properties at temperatures ranging from 35º to 55º
3) Graphite lubricants. The main advantage of such a lubricant is its durability. In the event of particle burnout, graphites still retain their properties and continue to work. Excellent for lubricating threaded connections.
4) Two-component smears. It is a thick grease diluted in a solvent. That is, in consistency, it is similar to water. When lubricated, it penetrates into hard-to-reach parts of the component, after which the solvent dries up and it becomes thick.
It is recommended to lubricate the chain after 100 km of the path it has traveled, or in the case when it starts to creak. It is advisable to first wash the chain, as well as the system sprockets and cassettes. This can be done with a solvent. After that, it is recommended to wipe and dry it. Otherwise, the solvent can corrode your new grease. Then you can start lubricating. We pedal slowly and try to lubricate every link of the bike chain. It is recommended to apply an even layer on each link. After that, rotate the pedals several times, preferably at each of the speeds, so that the grease evenly spreads both on the chain and on the stars, then wipe it with a dry cloth.
It is recommended to lubricate these components once a season. Otherwise, the shirt becomes clogged with dirt, preventing the cable from moving freely along it. This usually leads to poor braking performance and gear shifting. We recommend to disconnect the cable and remove the shirts. First, wipe the cable with a dry cloth, then grease it with an aerosol or liquid lubricant. This is most conveniently done with a napkin for even and economical lubrication. Then you need to drive the shirt through the entire cable several times.
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