# What is the pressure in the tires of a bicycle 29

### What keeps the pressure in the wheel

You need to understand that it is not the camera that holds the pressure, but the tire.

## Mountain Bike Tire

Not so long ago such a story happened in my life. Seeing that I was pumping up the wheels of a bicycle, a boy of 10–12 years old drove up to me and asked me to swing the wheels on his bike. As someone who cannot refuse such a simple matter, I connected the pump to his rear wheel. But not having time to do even 20 pitching, we saw with horror how cracks went along the tire and it burst, unable to withstand the internal pressure of the chamber.

As it turned out, this topic is quite extensive and correctly inflated wheels will give the bike better handling and cross-country ability.

## Standard pressure

Here are some tables that will help you navigate in difficult situations, namely:

• an unknown tire without markings was purchased;
• no physical access to the bike;
• the marking is incomprehensible, the numbers are marked in unknown units.

## Bicycle tire pressure versus cyclist weight

This should be immediately clarified. The pressure in the tires of a road bike always varies between 6.5-9 BAR (up to 130 PSI) and does not depend very much on the weight of the cyclist.

The pressure in mountain bikes is always lower.

Here is a table showing the dependence of the pressure in the wheels of a mountain and city bike on the weight of the biker:

You can focus on the following. for each additional kilogram of weight, the pressure should be increased by 1%.

The pressure in the tire directly affects its durability. Riding on poorly inflated tires wears them out quickly.

### Slicks

For driving on asphalt and well-rolled dirt roads, you need to pump up the maximum pressure.

Slick wheels are the easiest to swing for road and city bikes. Due to the fact that they have a small volume of wheels, the pressure must be high. The more pressure, the better the roll and the higher the speed. So swing boldly a little bit by 0.2. 0.4 under pumping to the maximum pressure indicated by the manufacturer on the tire, especially in hot weather.

## What is written on the tires

The secret to making the right choice is very simple: just look at the inflated wheel. Next to the information about the size of the tire there will be information about the permissible pressure range in the chamber.

Why is this information not shown on the camera itself? Because in it the only point subject to real stress is the nipple, and its mechanism is very reliable. Otherwise, the normal pressure, which increases by an order of magnitude during fast skiing, is taken by the tire, and how much it will be compressed is the main limitation.

So, if the pressure is too low, the tire will break closer to the rim, bite the chamber, leading to a breakdown, and if it is too low, it may just burst on one of the bumps or when driving on hot asphalt.

## What to pump up

Bicycle luggage requires maintenance and pumping very often. Even on the most “hardy” city and mountain bikes, it is required to check and pump up the camera every 2-3 weeks, since the air leaks not only through the nipple, but also simply through the rubber. High pressure “helps” air molecules find their way through an insufficiently dense chamber.

“City”, or, simply, budget bikes, it is enough to pump up once every 2-4 weeks, mountain bikes. at least once every two weeks, road bikes. once a week, and road and sports bikes. before each trip.

Therefore, the pump is not only an emergency accessory that is used only when a punctured wheel is changed, but also a necessary part of the preparation for departure. Active cyclists should consider purchasing two pumps:

• portable. as part of an emergency kit or on long trips;
• stationary with a stop and a pressure gauge. for periodic maintenance of your tires.

By the way, an ordinary car pump perfectly takes the place of a stationary pump. It is also suitable for bicycles, shows exactly how many atmospheres are pumped up, and does not take up additional space. Some people prefer to pump up on “professional” pumps at gas stations, but the lack of their professional tool can play a bad joke in the event of an unexpected situation or when you deviate from the standard route.

### Markings

What do they write on the tires? For example, (2.38-4.0) is clearly atmospheres, or BAR, and (95-135) is Psi. If the figure has more than 3 digits or the prefix “k” (kilo), we are talking about metric Pascal. Most often, the desired value is located under the size designation and is duplicated in BAR and Psi in the form of a range, clearly indicating to what pressure you can pump.

Actually, the manufacturer specifies the range within which the tire can function, then. the freedom of the cyclist.

## Bicycle tire pressure 29 inches

### For city bikes and mountain bikes

For a teenage or adult road (or mountain) bike with a wheel diameter of 24, 26, 27 and 27.5 inches, a pressure of 2.2-4 bar is considered optimal. But a road bike can withstand tire pressure up to 5 atmospheres. Exceeding this value will damage the rim on the first bump or explode the camera after acceleration over 30 km / h, sharp braking. A wider rim holds the tube better than a narrower rim. The more elastic the tire is, the more pressure it may need. And this does not mean that it will break with the maximum value.

Maintain a fine line between traction and rolling. Inflated to maximum pressure, the tire will roll very well. And yet, the grip will deteriorate sharply, since we are talking about a much lower speed. 5-30 km / h, and not 30-50. With a pressure below 2.2 atmospheres, the tire will noticeably wash out. Crossing and cornering balance will also suffer. The very first bump, passed at high speed (from 25 km / h) will lead to a “snake” breakdown.

The narrower the tire, the more pressure it will need. The above values ​​for “mountain” and “road” tires are suitable for a cyclist weight of 80-85 kg. The heavier the rider, the more wear-resistant rubber he needs, since the extra weight of a person requires more pressure. For dirt roads, off-road and asphalt, adjustments are also made.

## What should be?

Pressure standards are different for each type of tire.

## Pressure effect

In fact, the optimal pressure in the tires of a bicycle is a purely individual parameter, which each biker varies within certain limits for himself: for his riding style, for the planned route and the current level of training. The limits are set by technological constraints, which we will consider further.

Here are the main factors to consider when choosing an inflation level:

• high pressure gives “roll-over”. rolling speed, saving the strength of the cyclist;
• excessively high, in turn, can provoke a breakdown of the chamber against the rim from the inside;
• similarly, low pressure leads to “snake bites” when a rim on an obstacle or bump pierces the chamber at two points at once and reaches the tire;
• low pressure prevents damage to mechanisms on numerous bumps;
• at low pressure better “grip” and easier to move on rough terrain.

Taking into account all the pros and cons, a single recommendation can be made: the wheels should be inflated enough to provide good traction and not damage the camera. For this, there are standards for what pressure is considered acceptable. We will consider them further.

### For road bikes

The norm for road bikes is 8-11 atmospheres (bar), depending on the specific tire, the weight of the bike and cyclist, average and extremely high speed. Here the general rule works: pumping up the manufacturer’s recommended pressure (maximum.0.5 atmospheres), you will quickly and safely reach from point A to point B of your route. You are unlikely to be able to squeeze 10 atmospheres with a hand pump. Use a hand or foot pump with a pressure gauge. If your pressure limit is 9.5, then upload 9 and drive quietly at maximum speed.

All chambers gradually poison the injected air through their micropores. Part of it is also vented through the old nipple that has been loosened from thousands of pumping. Rubber itself allows molecules and atoms of atmospheric gases to pass through: compare the molecular size of the vulcanized polymers (this is a long chain) of which the chamber is made, and the sizes of the nitrogen and oxygen molecules. The longer you use one and the same camera, the more intensely it poison the air. gradual stratification, drying out of the rubber structure does its job. For example, for “KamAZ” wheels, pumped over due to congestion, eventually burst at full speed (one at a time, as the rubber resource depletes).

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A road bike with 10 bars in wheels, traveling 40 kilometers per hour and carrying a biker weighing 80-90 kg, undergoes the same thing. During the week, the working pressure in the wheels drops by about 1.5 atmospheres. After feeling the wheel after a 300-kilometer marathon, you are unlikely to feel that it has lowered, but the pump pressure gauge (or car compressor) will immediately indicate this.

If you do not have your own pressure gauge at hand, you can pump up the wheels of a bicycle at any service station for free using an automatic compressor.

It inflates a bicycle wheel in a few seconds, and when the set pressure is reached, the automatics turn off the air blower. A bicycle owner’s own pump is not only a portable tool that allows you to inflate a wheel after a rubber repair. For cycling professionals, the pump is a tool that they use regularly, and often even forcedly. The lot of a sports bike is fast driving (up to 40 km / h), racing on highways and cycle tracks. Pumping its wheels below the average pressure will lead to a quick breakdown of the chambers. Broken, cracked, rough, dry and bumpy asphalt is an additional problem.

If you inflate the wheel of any bicycle 2-3 times higher than the maximum value, then this pressure is guaranteed to explode the tube with the tire after the first hundred meters of travel. But even if the rubber could withstand such pressure, the rim would easily be severely damaged. “Top” pressure is not the one at which the tire bursts, but the one at which the wheel itself breaks.

## In what and how is it measured?

Bicycle tire pressures are measured in pounds per square inch, pascals, and atmospheres (bars). The atmospheric pressure of the Earth at the edge of the ocean level reaches almost 1 bar. This unit serves as the value multiplied by the factor indicated on the wheel. Calculation formula: 1 atm = 101325 Pa = 1 bar. Pounds per square inch is an obsolete measure. Bar. too, but it is firmly associated in the memory of people with the value of the pressure of one earth’s atmosphere (value at sea level). One bar equals approximately 14.5 psi.

The number of bars rarely exceeds 10 units. The number of pounds per square inch is sometimes more than 100. The number of kilopascals is a three-digit (but can be over a thousand) number. Kilopascals are converted to bars or pounds per square inch. According to the above formula, the cyclist inflates the wheel. Deviation from the recommended range of values ​​will result in a high accident rate. You can convert kilopascals to megapascals (MPa) by dividing the number of kilopascals by 1000.

## Bicycle tire pressure: what should be and how to swing?

Cycling performance depends on the inflation pressure of the tire. Insufficient compressed air pressure in the wheels leads to more frequent punctures and breakdowns in the tube and tire. Excessive. to rubber abrasion. The optimal tire pressure can be determined based on your experience with proper cycling and manufacturer recommendations.

### For road bikes

The norm for road bikes is 8-11 atmospheres (bar), depending on the specific tire, the weight of the bike and cyclist, average and extremely high speed. Here the general rule works: pumping up the manufacturer’s recommended pressure (maximum.0.5 atmospheres), you will quickly and safely reach from point A to point B of your route. You are unlikely to be able to squeeze 10 atmospheres with a hand pump. Use a hand or foot pump with a pressure gauge. If your pressure limit is 9.5, then upload 9 and drive quietly at maximum speed.

All chambers gradually poison the injected air through their micropores. Part of it is also vented through the old nipple that has been loosened from thousands of pumping. Rubber itself allows molecules and atoms of atmospheric gases to pass through: compare the molecular size of the vulcanized polymers (this is a long chain) of which the chamber is made, and the sizes of the nitrogen and oxygen molecules. The longer you use one and the same camera, the more intensely it poison the air. gradual stratification, drying out of the rubber structure does its job. For example, for “KamAZ” wheels, pumped over due to congestion, eventually burst at full speed (one at a time, as the rubber resource depletes).

A road bike with 10 bars in wheels, traveling 40 kilometers per hour and carrying a biker weighing 80-90 kg, undergoes the same thing. During the week, the working pressure in the wheels drops by about 1.5 atmospheres. After feeling the wheel after a 300-kilometer marathon, you are unlikely to feel that it has lowered, but the pump pressure gauge (or car compressor) will immediately indicate this.

If you do not have your own pressure gauge at hand, you can pump up the wheels of a bicycle at any service station for free using an automatic compressor.

It inflates a bicycle wheel in a few seconds, and when the set pressure is reached, the automatics turn off the air blower. A bicycle owner’s own pump is not only a portable tool that allows you to inflate a wheel after a rubber repair. For cycling professionals, the pump is a tool that they use regularly, and often even forcedly. The lot of a sports bike is fast driving (up to 40 km / h), racing on highways and cycle tracks. Pumping its wheels below the average pressure will lead to a quick breakdown of the chambers. Broken, cracked, rough, dry and bumpy asphalt is an additional problem.

If you inflate the wheel of any bicycle 2-3 times higher than the maximum value, then this pressure is guaranteed to explode the tube with the tire after the first hundred meters of travel. But even if the rubber could withstand such pressure, the rim would easily be severely damaged. “Top” pressure is not the one at which the tire bursts, but the one at which the wheel itself breaks.

## Influence of pressure on ride quality

The correct tire pressure is a specific parameter for each bike and for its rubber. The bike owner creates a certain amount of pressure based on the quality of the roads where he rides, or the lack of them. Riding preferences and physical fitness play an important role. The minimum and maximum pressure is determined by the supplier of the specific rubber.

The increased pressure in the wheels allows the cyclist to save energy. By improving the movement of the wheels, a person can lengthen or complicate his route.

The pressure exceeding the limit entered by the manufacturer is the reason for the puncture of the chamber from the inside of the rim. The side of the rim where the spokes go and where the protective rubber band runs will eventually break through the chamber with one of its side edges.

Below a lower pressure limit, the pressure will lead to a breakdown of the chamber, or “snakebite”. It looks like two adjacent holes. The rim breaks through the camera in two places at once when the wheel hits an obstacle.

The wheels must be inflated within the pressure specified by the manufacturer. In this case, the tire adheres perfectly to the road surface or to the road without any surface. The camera remains unharmed for many hundreds of kilometers.

The chamber pressure range is indicated on the sidewall of the tire. For example, a mountain bike tire says 1.95 inches wide. Inflate the wheel and measure the width of the tire using a ruler and two squares or a caliper. If the width matches the specified value, and the wheel feels elastic and hard, then you can ride. The width of the inflated wheel is not indicated on the camera. in this example, without a tire, it can inflate not to 1.95, but, say, to 2.1. When the camera already “sits” under the tire, the nipple itself takes on the load from the air expanding it from the inside.

### What’s My MTB Tire Pressure Sweet Spot? | SportRx

The valve of the nipple. the spool. is reliable enough not to bleed air when the wheel of a stationary bicycle is inflated or when it is under working load during the ride. The pressure rating while driving is already taken over by the tire, and not by the chamber. The tire prevents the tube from swelling even further. The tube is securely held by the tire due to the shape given to all the rubber by the cord and bead cable.

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If the pressure is too low, the bike tire will sink under the weight of the cyclist. It blocks the camera, causing it to abrade, making it more penetrable. Excessive pressure at high speed will rupture rubber when hitting a bump, stone, rails or crack across the road, when driving on overheated asphalt.

### For city bikes and mountain bikes

For a teenage or adult road (or mountain) bike with a wheel diameter of 24, 26, 27 and 27.5 inches, a pressure of 2.2-4 bar is considered optimal. But a road bike can withstand tire pressure up to 5 atmospheres. Exceeding this value will damage the rim on the first bump or explode the camera after acceleration over 30 km / h, sharp braking. A wider rim holds the tube better than a narrower rim. The more elastic the tire is, the more pressure it may need. And this does not mean that it will break with the maximum value.

Maintain a fine line between traction and rolling. Inflated to maximum pressure, the tire will roll very well. And yet, the grip will deteriorate sharply, since we are talking about a much lower speed. 5-30 km / h, and not 30-50. With a pressure below 2.2 atmospheres, the tire will noticeably wash out. Crossing and cornering balance will also suffer. The very first bump, passed at high speed (from 25 km / h) will lead to a “snake” breakdown.

The narrower the tire, the more pressure it will need. The above values ​​for “mountain” and “road” tires are suitable for a cyclist weight of 80-85 kg. The heavier the rider, the more wear-resistant rubber he needs, since the extra weight of a person requires more pressure. For dirt roads, off-road and asphalt, adjustments are also made.

## What should be?

### For fatbikes

Fatbikes are best for riding on sand, snow and rocky roads. An example is winter movement on a road that is close to a railway embankment and is covered with a 10 cm layer of snow. The running zone of a fat bike tire is 2-3 times wider than that of rubber for a mountain bike or city bike. The large contact area of ​​the tire with the road brings the fat bike closer to the wheels of the motorcycle. On a fat bike, you can freely ride on the off-road of forests and fields. The PSI chart is based on a rider with an average weight of 80 kg.

## Mountain bike tire pressure

Off-road bikes are a little more complicated. The point is, here you need to strike a balance between grip and coast. The more inflated the tire, the better it rolls (on a flat and hard surface), but due to the rigidity it cannot “lick” the surface. the grip deteriorates.

High pressure maintains the semi-circular profile of the tire, while maximum grip is possible when the full contact patch is involved. In other words, the more the tire “flattens”, the better for cross-country ability and control. On the other hand, if you pump too weakly, the roll will suffer and the same “snake bite” is possible.

Since basically all chamber mtb rubber has an allowable pressure range of about 2-4 atm, then I would say that the working pressure is between 2.2 and 3 atmospheres for an adult man weighing from 75 to 90 kg. It is impossible to say more precisely. there are a lot of factors, you need to experiment with a specific tire and a specific trail where you ride.

Different tires behave differently at the same pressure, and the behavior also depends on the width of the tire, it is believed that less pressure can be pumped into a wider one. The weight of the cyclist is very important, for obvious reasons.

Take a pump with a pressure gauge with you and try to find the lower pressure limit at which the tire still does not break. Then try how the bike rolls at that pressure. Add air if needed. You need to find a middle ground for both soil and asphalt.

## How much pressure should be in bicycle tires

It would seem that it could be simpler. pumped up, crumpled with your fingers, and drove off. But no, there are some subtleties here. Tire pressure is the most important factor in rolling, floatation and bike handling.

I am not deliberately touching tubeless tires yet, because they are installed on more expensive bikes, and this is a topic for a separate article.

## Road bike tire pressure

With bikes for asphalt roads, everything is simple. the more pressure, the better the roll. Look on the sidewall of the tire, there must be written a valid value, in psi, or in bar (atmosphere). If the maximum value, for example, 8 Bar, then score 7.5 and enjoy the speed.

I highly recommend getting a good floor pump with a pressure gauge (I bought it here), because pumping a road tire with a portable pump is still a torment, even if it is capable of delivering high pressure.

I will add that the air is etched through the rubber itself, and in about a couple of weeks the pressure drops by 1-2 atmospheres. You can’t feel it with your fingers, so a floor pump with a pressure gauge could not be more useful.

If you inflate a road tire below average, you can catch a tube breakdown called a snakebite. This happens when the wheel hits a hard object and the tire hits the rim. The result is two small holes that look like a snake bite.

### Air pressure for different types of tires

If you have a half slick, the low pressure negates its benefits. The meaning of the semi-slick is that, thanks to the semicircular profile, the tire rolls on a hard surface with a smooth part of the tread. And only after hitting soft ground, the side of the tread comes into play.

And if the tire is poorly inflated, then it will be flattened, and your half-slick will paddle with its lugs even on the asphalt. Therefore, in this type of tire we pump close to the maximum pressure.

Standard 2.1-2.3 inch cross country tires require a working pressure of 3-4 bar. Such rubber has not very pronounced lugs, it is the most versatile tire for those who ride in forests.

Tires for more extreme riding are 2.3 “and wider, and traction is very important here. The pressure is calculated experimentally so that the tire does not break through on drops and hard descents.

## Fatbike tire pressure

The fat bike is designed to ride on loose surfaces, its huge, large-volume tires must flatten over bumps, this is achieved by low pressure.

Fat is the perfect bike for winter, so let’s talk about riding in the snow. For a rider weighing 80kg, the following figures may be acceptable:

 10psi Rolled snow, paths 8psi Thick snow 6psi and below Loose snow

Fat rolls much better on loose snow if you pump less than 5psi. But reducing the pressure below this line for tube tires can be a bad decision. the bike starts to obey the steering wheel poorly, “float”, the nipple can break or shear due to the cranking of the tube. Therefore, I recommend switching to tubeless wheels for your fat bike, the bike will roll better and more stable at extremely low pressure.

In addition, do not forget about such a trifle that since you have much less atmosphere in your tires, temperature fluctuations will be reflected in real pressure. For example, at home it was 7psi, went out to frost of 10 degrees, it became 4.3. Here is a table for you, by which you can calculate the approximate dependence on temperature:

 The pressure in the chambers depending on the outside temperature Indoor temperature, ° C Outside air temperature, ° C 25 ten five -five -ten -15 -20 740 Atmospheric pressure, mm Hg psi at room temp. psi outdoors depending on temperature four 3.0 2.7 2,3 2.0 1.7 1,3 1.0 4.5 3.5 3.1 2.8 2.4 2.1 1.7 1.4 five 3.9 3.6 3.2 2.9 2.5 2.2 1.8 5.5 4.4 4.1 3.7 3.3 3.0 2.6 2.2 6 4.9 4.5 4.1 3.8 3.4 3.0 2.7 6.5 5.4 5.0 4.6 4.2 3.8 3.5 3.1 7 5.8 5.4 5.1 4.7 4.3 3.9 3.5 8 6.8 6.4 6.0 5.6 5.1 4.7 4.3 9 7,7 7.3 6.9 6.4 6.0 5.6 5.2 ten 8.7 8.2 7.8 7.3 6.9 6.4 6.0

## Why is it important to inflate your tires with the correct pressure?

Let’s start with the very basics, here’s a bike going down the road:

• The more inflated the tires, the better it rolls, the less fatigue
• The heavier the cyclist, the more you need to pump
• The more the tires are inflated, the more it shakes on bumps
• If the pressure is weak, then moving over the curb, you can punch the chamber on the edges of the rim (snake bite)

And now the logical question is how to find out within what framework you need to pump, how many atmospheres to pump specifically? The pressure in bicycle tires is measured in atmospheres (BAR) or PSI, and most often, the permissible range is written on the sidewall of the tire in PSI (one atmosphere equals 14.7 psi). Here is the average table for the average cyclist riding no extreme, on asphalt and dirt roads.

This information is enough for you to ride comfortably enough, while the tires will not suffer from over-pumping or under-inflation. Well, for those who care about details, we go deeper.

### How much to pump in tires in winter

If you ride a bike in cold weather, then it must be borne in mind that in the cold, the pressure drops a little, so at home pump it about 20% above normal so that everything on the street comes into balance.

Here I described how to choose the right bike tires for different riding styles, I advise you to look.

I would not want readers to imagine a picture of a cyclist with a pump, which only does what sets different pressure under different conditions.

In fact, finding a middle ground is quite simple, you just need to devote half an hour. I advise you to pay attention to this issue, if you are a beginner, then most likely you have not even thought about it.

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Yes, the right pressure is very important.
As recently as yesterday before leaving, I did not check it, I went. As I said, I have a MAXXIS Larsen TT, and it has very soft sidewalls.
I feel that the rear wheel is driving at cornering speed. I drove on the road to a tire fitting to check the pressure. I usually ride at 3.5-4 atm, but here it is only 2.5 atm. That immediately unpleasant sensations that the wheel is about to break off or the tire will bend.

An expensive pump with a monometer for MTB in our time is superfluous. At any, or almost any, gas station, you can pump the required pressure. And for minor repairs, a mini-pump from the same tea house is enough, fill 3 and get to the gas station.

I do not agree that the floor pump is superfluous. It is not always possible to get to the gas station or it is not so close to check the pressure and pump up the wheel.
And you don’t have to buy an expensive pump. Accidentally in Decathlon I got on a sale and bought an excellent floor pump there for 500r. With a long hose, high, not very thick working chamber, which makes it easy to pump high pressures, aluminum body and footrest, which are rare in cheap options

I like more pressure. I swing 4 atm before, 4.2 back. Kenda rubber 8 small blocks 2.3 ″ (:)), I weigh 87-89kg, I drive both on the ground and on asphalt. Rows normally on mud, but sand is death. I immediately bury myself (well, it is understandable :)) So I shake it so that the rubber does not play on turns, but it is bouncing and rolls on pebbles, but very precise control. At high speed (50-70 km / h) it is very noticeable. Then, and at a lower speed, I began to notice this effect. Well, he began to pump in the area of ​​maximum pressure. By the way, with intensive pedaling, the pumped rubber does not start to swing.

This is where you accelerated to 70 km? Not a rope behind the car? Or when dropping off the led from the balcony?

maybe he has a gravel bike. Ie shoser with spike. that can roll 50-70. ON MTB, yes, behind a truck only or from a hill, or on a cigarette standing next to a bike

A floor pump is a thing! I recently bought myself, with a large working chamber, a pressure gauge. There are several bicycles in the family, and on mine there are also several sets of rubber, which I change depending on the type of coating, it saves time and effort perfectly, plus on different bikes there are also different types of nipples, but here there are two separate heads. do not twist anything it is necessary, it is convenient in general
By pressure, I concluded that I pump the toothed rubber of the Richie up to 3.5 and it is pleasant, soft and tenacious on it, though not very fast, and I pump Marathon Supreme slicks up to 5 atm, on the asphalt it’s a fairy tale, although recently I have already started soils in them to meddle because the slicks are high 622 × 50
But with my wife’s bike, everything is more complicated, it is much easier than and here I do not know whether the rubber is to blame or the fork, she complains that she was driving as if she was wearing it on the sand, even on the asphalt, the descent of the rubber saves a little, but only a little

Abysmal, with MAXXIS, these are known problems. in the sense of soft sidewalls and insufficient pressure. I have more experience with MAXXIS Overdrive, now here is Gipsy, but the story is the same. As tires they are good. tenacious, do not slip even on wet and dirty asphalt, even though they are slicks. But they cut through the sides when under-pumping and overloading. To prevent them from driving, it is advisable to select a width that fits the rim, and not set, say, 2 inches per 18 mm rim landing width. Even stock Specialized is guilty of this.
This is why I prefer Schwalbe CX Comp or Road Runner from semi-slick tires. because these are mass tires, they are produced in a wide variety of widths, and it is not difficult to choose the width for the rim (remove drift).
Of course, no one canceled the correct pumping

Sergey K, I didn’t want to write about this directly in the article, but I also had problems with Maksis. Exactly what you say. Therefore, I cannot recommend them to readers.

Sergey, so if he drives, on the asphalt, is it on the contrary, underpumping? Or what is meant by “drives”?

chiba, will be. simislik, but manufacturers do not always indicate this explicitly. So it’s better to look with your eyes.

Abysmal, I also cannot imagine life without a floor house pump.

It is unlikely that it is under-pumping, because pumped up to 4 and gradually lowered to 2, as the descent it drives less, but the roll-off falls. Based on her description, it’s like riding on ice. I really sin more and more on the fork, the bike has already been 3 or 4 years old, and before this season it was used very little, now something happened to the fork. it just bounces back if you squeeze it, in general, if you press the handlebar and release that front wheel will jump, and if you lift the wheel into the air and throw it, then the lead will jump, the fork there is a simple SR XCT, i.e. a fork-simulator, but on mine, too, an extremely simple RS XC28, everything is completely different (it does not jump). I’m thinking, maybe this elastomer has broken (it happens at all or not, I don’t know) or stretched out so it just dangles inside.

“If you press the steering wheel and release, the front wheel will jump, and if you lift the wheel into the air and throw it, the bike will jump, the fork is a simple SR XCT”. the damper cartridge in the right leg died. Nitrogen left from chamber or glass oil or both.
This is only to replace the entire plug. There are no spare parts for this, and the cartridge is non-separable and maintenance-free