What Gears To Ride A Bike

How to properly shift gears on a bike?

Any cyclist should know how to properly switch speeds on a bicycle. When they buy a bicycle for children, they are always interested in how many speeds it has. And the higher the number of speeds, the better. But experienced cyclists know that the speed of a bicycle depends on the rider, or rather, on the work of his muscles. And the art of competently changing gears is a quality of cunning professionals that allows you to squeeze the maximum possible resources out of the car in rough terrain.

It used to be simple: the road bike had one speed. Therefore, on the plain, everything depended on the skills of the cyclist himself, and to ride in the mountainous terrain, one had to adapt to the terrain conditions: while riding down a hill, the cyclist accelerates the car as much as possible in order to enter the next mountain by inertia. If the ascent is protracted, then the cyclist goes uphill until the moment he can pedal. Then he gets off the bike and proudly walks next to the summit to continue the journey down again.

What Gears To Ride A Bike

In modern bicycles, there are two sets of gears. front (driving sprocket) and rear (driven sprocket). It is extremely important to learn how to choose the right gear depending on the nature of the ride. First, you need to learn a few simple rules for gear shifting:

  • Only change gears while the bike is in motion (this does not apply to planetary hubs).
  • Try to change gears when the load from the chain is removed or insignificant, otherwise you will not be able to switch, and even break the gearshift mechanisms or break the chain (this to a large extent depends on the quality level of the bicycle components). The front derailleurs are especially hard.
  • A higher gear is not recommended when overcoming hills, I select gears in front of the mountain (riders use uphill shifting, if necessary, but this technique requires skill and a “sense of the bike”).
  • Without proper skill, and do not switch to multiple gears at once. Do it in stages: after waiting for the clear work of one gear, go to the next (this moment also depends on the class of bike equipment and the skill of the cyclist).
  • Avoid large chain distortions.

Let’s take a closer look at the switching process itself:

  • A typical modern bike has 2-3 stars in the front and 8-10 stars in the back.
  • The numbering of the front stars is from 1 to 3. In the direction of increasing stars, the numbering of the rear stars is from 1 to 8 (9,10), in the direction of decreasing stars.

For simplicity, let’s take the popular budget 38 drive as an example:

  • The large chainring is used when driving on a good, level road (asphalt or compacted soil) in the absence of strong headwinds. Tracking sprockets 8 to 4 are usually used with this sprocket. Although in sports riding and racing, you can often see any combination of.
  • The middle chainring is used when driving on dirt roads, bad asphalt, not very loose sand in combination with rear sprockets from 6th to 2nd (which does NOT exclude the use of the entire set of rear sprockets). On these programs it is convenient to drive in dense city traffic, maneuvering between various moving and stationary obstacles. When there is a strong headwind on the highway, a middle chainring is also often installed.
  • The small chainring is used with chainrings 5 ​​to 1. These gears are used when driving on very steep climbs, wetlands, sticky mud, sand, dense grass.

Drawing of parallel universes. Left (in red) wrong. universes of bicycle chains are parallel, left (green) right!

Cadence

Regarding the rotational speed (cadence). Each person is comfortable with their own cadence, at which the pedals will rotate with maximum efficiency. If the speed of rotation is lower than the rhythm you are comfortable with, then the strength will be wasted. If the cadence is incorrect, there is also a risk of injury. This is due to increased stress on joints and muscles. So pay attention to this point when driving.

Too fast pedaling is also not necessary, otherwise you will quickly get up. Finding the ideal frequency for yourself is easy, rely on sensations. I will only add that in addition to road conditions, the choice of gear and cadence is influenced by the strength and direction of the wind, as well as the physical form of the cyclist at the moment.

Under any conditions, the goal is the same. pedals with constant speed and constant effort on them, regardless of the selected gear. The same rhythm significantly postpones the onset of fatigue and increases endurance. Consequently, a significantly greater distance can be overcome.

It is impossible in advance to accurately match a particular transmission to specific road conditions. Of course there are many formulas, graphs and tables, but most of them are Calculated for road bikes, fair weather, and smooth asphalt. Should the conditions change, and all the calculations are down the drain. The choice of gear depends on the road or lack of it, the slope of the track, temperature, ground conditions, tire pressure, wind, the rider’s physical condition, adrenaline and blood sugar levels. There are other criteria that cyclists can be guided by. One of them is cadence. It is known that the optimal cadence when driving on a horizontal surface. for example, in road bikes. is on average 95. 115 rpm, and in cross-country riders this value will already be 70. 90 rpm. But for amateurs and cyclists, this is just a guideline, not a rule. There is no need to try to start immediately from high gears; first, in low gears, we warm up the muscles, unwinding to optimal gears. When choosing a gear, as in any business, the cyclist needs to stick to the “golden mean”, and not fall into extremes. A slow pace of driving in large gears is very detrimental to the condition of the knee joints. Pedaling too often will reduce driving efficiency and cause fatigue faster. In difficult road conditions (driving on mud, sand, grass or snow), the gears are lowered due to the fact that the torque reserve is required. The technical capabilities of the switches do not always allow the chain to be dramatically shifted from small to large stars. For mountain hikes with backpacks, a set of chainrings, e.g. 48, 38 and 28 teeth, is usually sufficient.

When driving upwind or uphill, you need to switch to “lower gears” close to 1: 1. With this set of gears, the cadence increases, but the speed decreases. When driving on flat terrain, the gear ratio can be 4: 1 to maintain speed. When racing a motorcycle, a speed of over 100 km / h can be achieved. In these record-breaking rides, cyclists use a gear ratio of 8: 1 or more. However, usually the muscle strength of the legs is not enough to spin such gears from the spot. Even athletes do NOT use gears greater than 5: 1, but rather increase their cadence.

In 1985, in the United States, John Howard set a speed record of 245.077 km / h. For the first time he covered 241 kilometers on a bicycle in one hour. Ten years later, Rompelberg Fred from the Netherlands broke his world bicycle speed record with a result of 269 km / h.

Many novice cyclists avoid frequent gear changes and even when riding upwind, leave the chain on the large drive and small driven gears. Their ride is more like a sailboat maneuvers against the wind. As a result, after such a ride, knee pain can naturally occur. Meanwhile, a competent cyclist when riding upwind, having reduced the gear ratio to 2-3: 1, will be able to maintain a higher speed with less effort. In small gears, pedal at a frequency of 80-90 rpm. / Min.

Gear shifting during ascent

If you understand that you are changing gears as needed, it means that you have already missed the optimal moment to change. This means that you will NOT keep the desired rhythm and inertia of movement. Be more careful next time. Never shift gears with heavy pedaling, which will cause rapid component wear.

The most common mistake is rarely using the front derailleur. Shifting from the rear to a comfortable sprocket and working with the front derailleur. You will feel how much faster you find the right gear, because the effect of one shift on the front sprocket can be compared to the effect of shifting to two sprockets of the rear cassette, and much less time is spent!

It becomes possible to quickly gain the desired speed with a single switch. Then, when you get into the rhythm of the movement, you have the chance to use the rear derailleur to fine-tune the gear.

Remember: first select the correct forward gear, and only then adjust the gear using the rear derailleur!

How to properly shift gears on a bike?

Recently I saw Alexei Baevsky, took the bottle holder from him to his Aggressor. Lesha reprimanded me and was CRASHED saying that I was changing gears incorrectly and I had a chain skew and soon it would be possible to throw it out. I got into no and started looking for material on the topic. Found several articles. I bring to your attention the most useful theses of them.

Maintenance Tips for the Gear Shift System

Many bikers agree that the bike is alive. But don’t let him show character. This is especially true of the gearshift system: if the speeds are switched without your participation or do not change at all when you want it, this does not always mean that the components are worn out or broken, most likely the problem is in dirt or grass that has got into the transfer, in chain or sprockets. Be sure to clean and lubricate the chain, sprockets and derailleur. such care contributes to smoother and more precise shifting, and, therefore, comfortable riding.

It is very important to feel the bike well, then you can hear any extraneous sound. For example, an extraneous “metallic sound” can occur due to the chain being stretched. This quickly leads to component wear. Change the chain at least! once a season.

Ideally, one should strive to move to the intuitive level of shifting, which athletes and experienced cyclists are fluent in. It should absolutely not matter to you how many gears and what type of drive is on your bike. You will not think about switching at all: everything will happen automatically, depending on the current road or racing situation.

The clarity of the gears depends on the class of equipment, the degree of wear of parts, the correct setting of the devices, the condition of the cables and their jackets, as well as the degree of contamination of the mechanisms and the chain.

And for dessert: scientists decided to create a bicycle with gear shifting using only thoughts:

Important addition from user Arkady Belousov:

For a comprehensive assessment of the traction of a bicycle, the parameter “laying” or “step” of the bicycle is used. this is the distance that the bicycle travels in one revolution of the pedals in a given gear. Less stacking means better traction in a given gear, but less speed.

For driving in tough conditions (where more effort is required) gears with a lower gear ratio are better because they have less styling. It is easy to see that the smallest gear ratio is obtained by choosing the first leading (smallest) and first driven (largest) sprockets. The same applies to bicycles with a single front sprocket. for riding in difficult conditions it is better to choose the first (Largest) driven sprockets, and for light conditions the last (smaller) ones are more suitable

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A bike day. Not a day without a bike!

How to properly shift gears on a bike? 41 comments

Damn, I switched on the spot and now it seizes what to do

Try to figure out what exactly is jamming and sort out the speed control system. You may just need to adjust the switches. How to do it is written here-

Throw it off the roof of the house, fix it. The chain will break off the contacts will press down at first WILL NOT spin for 2-3 hours and then it will work like new.

The question is: the bike has three sprockets in the front and 6 in the back. Rear shifts properly. one flip of a coin. one gear.
The front one is different. there are 6 divisions on the handle (on the steering wheel), therefore, in order to switch from one gear to another in the front sprocket, you have to move the handle (on the steering wheel) immediately to 3 divisions, because. When translating to only one circuit, it is NOT translated, but simply starts rubbing against the moved switch. This is normal or you can somehow adjust?

This is not normal. Switches Must match the number of speeds

How to increase the switch travel for this? So that with one click, he would transfer the chain a sufficient distance (to the next sprocket)?

This is correct even if calculated mathematically
Only 6 divisions, 3 stars, 6 we divide by 3, it turns out 2, that is, for each star, two switches should have

Alexander, I have the same problem. Bicycle Stels Focus 18skors.

Hello, If you switch from 3rd gear to 2nd, then the chain remains in 3rd, and if you switch to 1st, then it goes to 2nd.?

Better to pull or loosen the transfer cable (front derailleur) I don’t remember exactly, there was a similar problem I solved with the power of adjusting the cable tension

For a snack:
left (In red) wrong. the universes of bike chains are parallel, left (In green) right! “

“Popular budget drive 38”
Big front star. On a good, flat road ”
“Petite front star. Steep climbs ”
Not a word was said about the rear sprockets (by the way, I have only one sprocket in front).

higher gear when climbing hills, pick up gears in front of the mountain ”
“In difficult road conditions. lowered
Not only is there NO explanation of what is meant by “raising” and “lowering” the gears, so here in the text the same thing is called opposite definitions.

“Up the hill. On the” downshift “close to 1: 1”
“Slow driving pace in large gears”
Again the same contradiction: according to the text, 1: 1 is both “low gear” and “high”.

Because of all this confusion (the use of the rear sprockets alone and in combination with the front sprockets is not explained: it is not explained what and why “raising” and “lowering” and which combinations gear should be used in different conditions) when I first read it, I didn’t understand much. Fortunately, on velowiki.Org I found a description of what a “gear ratio” in a bicycle is (one paragraph was enough for this), and from there it was already possible to make simple independent conclusions about how to switch speeds.

So this page lasts no more than 2-3 on a 5-point system: there are a couple of useful points, but for an educational program for a novice user of a multi-star system, this is not enough, and even more advanced users have nothing to read here.

Thanks for your reputable opinion! If you have already spent so much time writing this little comment, can I ask you for a service? Rewrite what you think is necessary and send me the finished text in html format in the feedback form. I promise to add your option if everything is ok!

I agree with the author of the commentary, I didn’t understand a damn thing from the article))). What was meant when driving uphill or against the wind “1: 1”. How to get 1: 1, because any chainring is always larger than any rear. Or I misunderstood something.

“Any chainring is always larger than any rear”.
Not always, on MTB there may be a rear 36, front 22 gear ratio will be even lower than one, namely 0.61 in this case.

I changed the camera. And after that, the speeds began to switch incorrectly (ringing of the chain when pedaling and their failure). What have I done wrong?

Perhaps you just need to correctly find the position of the rear wheel on the frame, either push it back all the way or slightly forward, or it is better to move it all the way back and adjust the rear derailleur with the adjusting screws

Don’t mislead people. The lower the gear ratio, the MORE the styling! For persuasiveness, open the section “Drive axle, final drive” in any car manual.

When it comes to bicycles, there is a direct relationship. the larger the gear ratio, the greater the styling. THOSE. Quite the opposite compared to a car.

In order not to make such blunders, take a closer look at the topic first.

About cadence Not entirely true, it’s all about the knee joint, it is at a rotation speed of 80-110 rpm that the right amount of lubricating fluid is formed in the joint. Accordingly, if it turns slower or faster, it badly affects the knee.

I have now made myself a new automatic system. No more derailleur sprockets and chain tensioner. My front sprocket is telescopic and it grows from 38 to 70 teeth (according to the diameter of the star). Under the pressure of the pumped brake fluid. And when I stop it decreases. And the switch of the rear comments because The chain is also stretched on the rear wheel. I’m not worried uphill at all now. I also put such a system on the front. And then earlier, when it was inconvenient to switch the speed with the hands of a tough guy.
P.S Pedal cranks are also telescopic In the front-upper position, the length of the pedals is maximum (double), and in the rear-lower position, it is minimum (standard). There the back of the connecting rod runs in an offset circle, yaky pushes it in and out.
So your topic doesn’t quite suit me, but still curious.

How reliable is this system? How many kilometers have already traveled?

Recently I got my hands on a bicycle (MTB, 21 speeds), after 1 week of riding, there were problems with the front and rear derailleur. After reading the article, I understood everything (of course, it’s my fault that I did everything in reverse and without any logic). The problem is the rear derailleur is stuck at 4 speeds (2 to 5) and the front derailleur is missing the middle sprocket. Now I think. is it possible to fix it?

Hello. Faced this problem: the chain on the front sprockets simply does not switch. Severe misalignment occurs when attempting to manually shift. How to be ?

I put a new chain, 1-2 teeth began to slip on small stars. Tell me the reason please

Maybe chain length plays a role. But honestly they say, I’m not a repairman to help with such questions

Together with the chain, the cassette (rear stars) also changes, sometimes the system (chainrings), since they wear out along with the chain. I recommend changing the cassette, it is inexpensive

“Overcame 241 kilometers in one hour”. bullshit. It turns out that his average speed is 241 km / h? How much is the peak??

Hello.
I bought a bike, I have 3 stars on the leader and 7 on the slave.
Tell me which one is better to learn to ride?
Well, to go slower. 1 front and 1 rear?

If there is 1 on the front, then you can put 1-2-3 on the back, if 2, then 3-4-5, if three, then on the back there can be 6-7. Learning is worth riding everybody, it all depends on the speed and traction. On a flat road, you can walk to 3-6. It is better to ride uphill on lows. It’s not a car, where it’s better to stick in the fifth after a speed of 100 and a couple of years of driving experience.

I can’t try it yet, today I only started learning to ride, I’m NOT still in the saddle so that they switch in motion

My brother came, held the bike while I switched, and it is as described above. for different speeds, the levers perform an asymmetric function. I wonder why so.

And why can it be that the saddle leans back under the weight?
Just because it is NOT tightly clamped?
It seems great for me, frame 19 wheel 26, my height is 178.
Today I traveled to rumors, the saddle is thrown back again, for now I bought the key for 13, I already clamped it tightly to mine, then I’ll check if it holds it while riding.

Maybe this is a sign that the saddle needs to be lifted.?
When the saddle is even, then it is convenient for me to ride.

And why is it wrong when the figure is red in 4 and how to fix it

“Try to change gears when the load is removed from the chain” is not clear here. When the load is removed from the chain. when? I’ve read that you need to switch when just a steep pedal, without any climbing uphill and second obstacles.

Hello, I have such a problem, when riding a bicycle when I switch the chainrings for example (when I switch from 1 to 2 It does not switch, when I switch to 3 it switches to 2 and 3 at all) And on the rear wheel I have 7 stars how to do it correctly?

Place for training

The place for training should be as flat as possible, devoid of any pits and potholes. If it is a road, then it must be straight. It is better to avoid a track with sharp turns.

The only unevenness that Not only does NOT interfere with learning to ride, but on the contrary, only contributes to the rapid acquisition of the necessary skills, is the slope.

If the territory chosen for training is slightly inclined, then it will be possible to move along it without even pedaling. This will greatly help you learn how to maintain balance, and not be distracted by the need to move your legs.

A bike

For training, you can, of course, take any bike. The main thing is that it is serviceable. However, it is recommended to use one with a seat that is not very high on the ground. It is best if it will be located flush with the pelvis.

When choosing the right bike for your workout, it is also important to remember that it too will be subject to falls. Therefore, preference should be given to those models of two-wheeled vehicles, which are distinguished by good strength.

Protective gear

It is also extremely important Prepare for the coming fall Not only mentally, but also physically. It is highly recommended to purchase special protective equipment: knee pads, elbow pads, helmet.

Don’t be afraid to look stupid. If you still want to avoid the looks of others, then you can go with your bike to places that are NOT crowded, for example, just go outside the city.

How to quickly learn to ride a bike

It is enough to learn to ride a bike just once, and this skill will never be lost. This statement concerns only the ability to keep balance. But some of the nuances of riding, such as choosing the right equipment or choosing the model of the two-wheeled vehicle itself, can be forgotten if a person does not approach the bike for a long time.

And there can be many reasons why people who have learned to ride simply forget about the bike. Someone, perhaps, simply does not have money to buy a new bike or to repair an old one, someone simply does not have enough time.

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Well, if a person who wants to learn how to ride a bicycle, but at the same time is constantly looking for some reason not to start practicing, for example, “I can fall” or “I will never succeed,” then the wrong psychological attitude is to blame. And in fact, this has nothing to do with the physical capabilities of a person.

So what do you need to do in order to learn to ride a bike? Further, useful recommendations will be given to both a beginner and those who already know how to ride, but are still afraid to apply this skill in practice.

The main thing is persistence

It is necessary to mentally prepare yourself for the upcoming failures. It will not work to avoid them, but if you show persistence, then the goal will certainly be achieved.

The first steps

When everything is ready, you can start classes. The first steps when trying to learn to ride should be steps in the literal sense.

First you need to get on the bike, but does not put your feet on the pedals. Feet Must remain on the road surface.

Now you can start just taking steps and move in this way with the bike. This practice will help you gain confidence and teach you a little balance.

If the road has a slope, then you always need to start from its Highest point and gradually move downward. Each time, when the slope is overcome, it is necessary to return to the top again and from there start the next descent.

During this workout, it will be difficult at first to keep the steering wheel in position. But this problem, fortunately, disappears quickly.

Moral preparation

Morale is very important in this matter. First of all, a beginner cyclist should be prepared for the fact that in any case he will have to endure several falls, no matter how carefully he behaves. The likelihood that a beginner trying to learn how to ride will never fall during training is almost negligible.

It is important NOT to stop exercising no matter what. Attempts Must continue no matter how many failures.

clothing

You need to choose the right clothes. So, how warm it will be depends, of course, on the air temperature. If it is more than 25 degrees outside, then it will be enough to wear something light, for example, a T-shirt and shorts. If the weather is colder, you will need warmer clothes.

It is highly recommended to choose clothing that wicks away perspiration. The fact is that, NOT accustomed to such loads, the body will get tired.

Shoes must be closed. This will help prevent many injuries. And you need to put on special cycling gloves on your hands. Otherwise, the hands may be severely damaged if dropped.

Equilibrium

The main task of a beginner is to learn how to keep balance. This is where the main difficulty lies. But, in reality, not everything is so difficult as it seems at first. If you take the right actions while trying to learn how to keep balance, then a positive result can be achieved surprisingly pretty quickly.

In many cases, in just 1 day, a person turns from a NOT able beginner into a real cyclist. Of course, various aerobatics stunts will NOT be so easy to perform, however, you can use a bicycle as a full-fledged means of transportation on the same day when training has begun.
So, in order to learn how to keep balance, you should perform such actions in order.

9. Choose pleasant views and calm streets for the drive home.

Relax and enjoy the process.

Draw a line on the map from start to finish

You must understand where and in what direction to move.

Asking fellow cyclists about their experiences in city riding. 4. Exploring the movement of the city train

Almost empty, it runs every 15 minutes in the morning and evening. Bicycles on the city train can be transported free of charge.

If there is a “Bicycle” mark on the carriage door, this carriage has special places for transporting your bike.

How to ride a bike to work in Kiev: 10 tips for beginners

The best advice for residents of the capital, not those who know how to ride a bike to work or school.

The Association of Cyclists of Kiev shares tips.

Draw your route on the goolge map and calculate the mileage

If you get less than 10 km. you can easily overcome this route, if more. try looking for shorter options (city train).

If you need to cross a bridge, select bridges in order of priority

  • Paton Bridge. sidewalk;
  • Moskovsky bridge. sidewalk Trukhanov island Pedestrian bridge;
  • Metro Bridge. sidewalk;
  • Darnytskyi bridge. roadside.

Option Moscow Bridge Trukhanov Pedestrian bridge is especially convenient and pleasant for residents of Troeshchina and Voskresenka, and from Levoberezhna and Darnitsa you can get here through the Pontoon bridge under the future Podolsko-Voskresensky bridge, check-in from the Rusanovskiye gardens.

Get directions where there is less traffic. Ideal. where there is none at all

Determine which streets, lanes, inter-block thoroughfares correspond to the Shortest path (straight line)

  • Streets with few cars (narrow, duplicating the main road. but pay attention, they are not one-way)
  • Driveways through parks, along embankments;
  • Inter-quarter passages can significantly shorten your route, but be careful. so that there are no hassles with local residents;
  • Instead of short steep climbs, look for more downhill runs (or train in low gears, or increase endurance).

Instead of going up Shevchenko Boulevard or on Lev Tolstoy Street, go up Zhilyanskaya Shota Rustaveli, here the ascent angle is not so steep, and the ride will be much easier.

To climb from Podil to Lukyanovka or to the railway station, choose Glybochitskaya, and from Podol to the center. a funicular: there are special places for passengers with a bicycle.

  • Trunk streets with heavy traffic;
  • Difficult Intersections and Interchanges.

Take a test drive

Count the time, see if there are curbs, railway tracks, and correct your route without them.

Your average speed on the first trip will be approximately 10 km / h, in the second. 12 km / h, in the fifth and further. 15-20 km / h, at least.

When sidewalk traffic is prohibited?

In the event that a person moves on a bicycle, he is a full participant in traffic.

  • Cycling on the sidewalk is strictly prohibited if cyclists are over 14 years old.
  • You cannot drive while holding on to another vehicle. This can harm both the cyclist and therefore whoever moves nearby.
  • You only need to ride with your hands on the steering wheel and DO NOT take your feet off the pedals. This is necessary so that a person can brake if necessary.
  • It is strictly forbidden to carry passengers in your vehicle, if there is no specially equipped space for this.
  • It is prohibited to tow bicycles or use other vehicles for this.
  • It is also prohibited to use a trailer for towing, which is not provided for this.

When is driving on the sidewalk allowed?

Riding a bicycle on the road can be dangerous nowadays. After all, the traffic there is too fast, and it is very difficult for cyclists to adjust to it. Therefore, very often you can see people who move in their vehicle on the sidewalk. However, it is currently prohibited to do this, and according to the new traffic rules, you can ride a bike only in certain cases.

First you need to decide what the sidewalk is. This is the part of the road where only pedestrians usually travel. It is located near the roadway. Modern pedestrian paths can be found in parks, squares, and near residential buildings. Cycling on sidewalks or pedestrian paths is possible in cases where this place has:

  • Specially designated cycling areas;
  • Equipped bike paths;
  • SEPARATE lanes for cyclists;
  • Sideways on which only pedestrians move.

In addition, you can cycle along the sidewalk:

  • All children from 7 to 14 years old;
  • Adults who accompany children on bicycles under 14 years old.

When to cycle on sidewalks and when not?

  • When is driving on the sidewalk allowed?
  • How to properly move on footpaths?
  • When sidewalk traffic is prohibited?
  • Penalties for breaking the rules

Nowadays, many people choose to lead a healthy lifestyle. A great way to keep yourself in great physical shape is to ride a bike from time to time. But in order for the trip not to cause problems to anyone, you need to know all the rules for driving this transport.

How to properly move on footpaths?

First of all, the cyclist must take care of the health of his vehicle. There should be no problem with him. Particular attention should be paid to the brakes. In addition, the classic model must certainly be complemented by reflectors, as well as lights used in the dark. As for the cyclist himself, he must perfectly understand all road signs.

Cyclists should ride on footpaths and not interfere with pedestrians or other cyclists. In the case of group movement, cyclists are required to move one after the other, keeping a certain distance. The group should not exceed 10 people. You need to drive NOT too fast, so as not to accidentally harm pedestrians.

As for pedestrian crossings, which are regulated, then cyclists are required to obey traffic signals or the traffic controller. In the event that they come across unregulated crossings, all cyclists must necessarily give way to pedestrians. In addition, you need to give way A person walking towards a stopped tram or bus.

You cannot turn around on your bike at pedestrian crossings. In this case, you must dismount and cross the road like an ordinary pedestrian. However, you need to move not along the pedestrian crossing itself, but next to the zebra.

Penalties for breaking the rules

It’s not just car drivers who dislike cyclists, but pedestrians are the same. Indeed, for many, such transportation means only trouble. Indeed, not all cyclists are familiar with traffic rules. Therefore, quite often the drivers of this light vehicle turn in the wrong place or simply cross the zebra. “at full steam”. Some of them sometimes even ride red lights.

In addition, cyclists and ordinary pedestrians interfere. They are afraid of their chaotic movement. However, it is worth noting here that traffic rules are annually toughened, and fines are increasing. And this is perfectly true. After all, the owner of any vehicle must be responsible for everything that happens on the roads. This also applies to cyclists who must control themselves on the road.

Most often, modern cyclists violate these rules:

  • Driving their vehicle in a state of alcoholic or drug intoxication, which is fraught with various consequences;
  • Talking on the phone on a bicycle, which is strictly prohibited by traffic rules;
  • Turn the vehicle to the left on tram lines, which is strictly prohibited;
  • Crossing a pedestrian crossing on a bicycle, which is NOT allowed by traffic rules;
  • They ignore various prohibition signs, which can ultimately lead to unpleasant consequences.

For any of the above violations, the police officer has the right to fine the offending cyclist. It is worth reading in more detail about fines for violations, which are described in the article of the Administrative Code.

  • Article 12.29 refers to the violation of traffic rules by a cyclist, who participates in the very process of movement. The fine is 800 rubles.
  • The second part of this article says about fines, which are relevant in the case when a person is intoxicated. The fine can range from 1 to 1.5 thousand rubles.
  • Article 12.30 refers to traffic violations, which in the future leads to interference on the road. In this case, a fine of 1 thousand rubles is possible.
  • In the event that the cyclist violated the traffic rules, which subsequently led to a deterioration in human health, he is obliged to pay a fine of 1.5 thousand rubles. In this case, the cyclist was either driving very fast or was in a state of alcoholic intoxication.

Compared to the fines that are issued to motorists, these fines are very small. Therefore, many people simply ignore the rules, thereby provoke the emergence of all kinds of situations.

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Summing up, we can say that even when riding a bicycle, a person must always be familiar with all the existing rules. This will allow you to avoid unpleasant situations on the road. In addition, all this knowledge will help to fight back in the case when the cyclist is right and, perhaps, they just cling to him because of little things.

All traffic rules for cyclists, see below.

Muscles, Joints and Cycling

Cycling is a fairly active sport. During a ride, the human body is in a static position for a long time. In this case, all the muscles of the back are tense. This is necessary to maintain balance. The knee and ankle joints are under severe stress, since the main task on them is to pedal. Therefore, increased attention is paid to the mobility and endurance of the ankle and knee joints. There is great stress and triceps calf muscle.

During the ride, the cyclist’s hands are on the handlebars. Because of this, the load on the wrist joints increases. If the arms are not positioned correctly and are bent too much, the joint can develop what is known as carpal tunnel syndrome. At the same time, median nerve, which is one of the three main nerves of the hand. The main symptoms of his defeat are numbness, burning and pain from the wrist to the fingers.

We ride the bike properly. General rules for those with spine or joint problems. Who is not allowed to ride a bike?

As we have already figured out, cycling involves different loads on certain joints and muscles of the body. Therefore, to leave your two-wheeled friend for better times, or even pay attention to other, more gentle sports, should be followed by those who:

  • Diagnosed with moderate and severe degenerative-dystrophic changes in the spine and joints (pathological changes in the joints, ligaments, tissues of intervertebral discs and vertebral segments)
  • Moderate and severe scoliosis;
  • Exacerbation of joint or spinal disease (travel can make pain worse)
  • Descent of the kidneys (due to vibration and shaking during movement);
  • Women during pregnancy (shaking and vibration while driving).

In addition, those who are diagnosed with stomach and duodenal ulcers, which often exacerbate and bleed, should refrain from cycling.

A contraindication is the exacerbation of varicose veins. With the load that the legs experience while riding, taking into account this disease, the risk of a blood clot is high.

This recommendation also applies to those who have reduced blood clotting and those taking medications to thin blood (acetylsalicylic acid, clopidogrel, warfarin, etc.). Even a minor injury in them can lead to significant blood loss.

Any kind of sport, including cycling, involves high energy costs and increased physical activity. And if you approach this wisely, then the health benefits will be invaluable. In the case when common sense fades into the background, physical activity can lead to rather negative consequences. Therefore, Contraindications for cycling are:

  • Exacerbation of any chronic diseases;
  • Diagnosed diseases of the cardiovascular system (acute myocardial infarction, unstable angina pectoris, acute inflammatory heart disease, heart defects with critical disorders of intracardiac hemodynamics, aneurysm of the heart, aorta, second vessels, arrhythmias, etc.);
  • Feverish conditions (fever)
  • Arterial hypertension (severe or uncontrolled condition);
  • If not even a year has passed since any surgical intervention;
  • Decreased vision of a high degree (myopia 5.0 diopters or more), especially if there are changes in the fundus;
  • If a person suffers from chronic shortness of breath or bronchial asthma;
  • For epilepsy, tendency to faint,
  • For diseases leading to impaired coordination.

Caution. bike! Whom cycling is contraindicated?

Lately, there are more and more people who like to ride a bike, both among adults and among children. Who would refuse to drive another two-wheeler with a breeze in good weather? And a lot of positive emotions are also useful for health. Meanwhile, even such a seemingly simple form of physical activity as cycling has its limitations. They will be discussed in our article.

Nadezhda Stakheiko told who absolutely should not ride a bike, and who should observe certain restrictions for healthy people.

Rule one

With an exacerbation of diseases of the spine and joints, it is definitely impossible to ride a bicycle. The inflammation must be cured first. And only then start practicing. The load on the joints should be given in dosage and start with a minimum. 20-30 minutes a day. You should adhere to a low pace of driving and set medium revs in gears. And only when, after several trips, the pain does NOT manifest itself, you can gradually increase the driving time to 40-50 minutes.

Rule four

After a long winter, I want to quickly kick out my bike and ride along the street, enjoying the spring sun. At the same time, it is recommended to open the cycling season, even if you are healthy, carefully, gradually. Increase the pace of loads and the duration of the cycle time. No need to make sudden movements, it is better to drive on a flat road, let the hills and slopes wait. An abrupt start can lead to unnecessary stress on joints and injuries to the intervertebral discs.

Our back and joints love warmth. Therefore, at air temperatures below 14 degrees, it is worthwhile to warm up. We must not forget about water. To prevent dehydration, you need to drink 100-150 ml of water every 15 minutes.

Rule three

Before cycling, make sure the seat and handlebars are adjusted correctly. When riding a cyclist, it should be possible to fully straighten the leg, while pressing the pedal as much as possible.

Bicycle and children

When buying a bicycle, children should take into account the child’s age, his ability to understand and follow safety rules when riding, as well as whether he has certain diseases. In addition, do not forget about the child’s ability to sit steadily independently, pedals and turn the steering wheel. It will not be superfluous to purchase special protective equipment: a bicycle helmet, knee pads, protection for elbows and hands.

Second rule

So that diseases of the spine and joints do not make themselves felt as long as possible, while cycling, it is necessary to fix the vertebrae of the lumbar spine with a special supporting corset. If possible, choose a bike with a special seat with a backrest. This will allow you to “unload” the back muscles.

Bicycle gear shifting

Any cyclist should know how to properly switch speeds on a bicycle. When they buy a bicycle for children, they are always interested in how many speeds it has. And the higher the number of speeds, the better. But experienced cyclists know that the speed of a bicycle depends on the rider, or rather, on the work of his muscles. And the art of competently changing gears is the quality of cunning professionals that allows you to squeeze the maximum possible resources out of the car in rough terrain conditions.

It used to be simple: the road bike had one speed. Therefore, on the plain, everything depended on the skills of the cyclist himself, and to ride in the mountainous terrain, one had to adapt to the terrain conditions: while riding down a hill, the cyclist accelerates the car as much as possible in order to enter the next mountain by inertia. If the ascent is protracted, then the cyclist goes uphill until the moment he can pedal. Then he gets off the bike and proudly walks next to the summit to continue the journey down again.

In modern bicycles, there are two sets of gears. front (driving sprocket) and rear (driven sprocket). It is extremely important to learn how to choose the right gear depending on the nature of the ride. First, you need to learn a few simple rules for gear shifting:

  • You do not need to change gears while the bike is stationary This can damage the switches.
  • You should change gears even before your speed drops in front of difficult-to-pass areas (for example, sand or loose snow) or on the rise.
  • Gear shifting, no need to pedal hard. Switching is easiest if the circuit is NOT loaded and there is a speed margin.
  • When switching it is necessary to make sure that the chain is NOT severely skewed. That is, you should not use a large chainring and a large rear sprocket. In reality, you should use gears: with a small star in front to 4-5 stars in the back, from the second front. from 3rd (2nd) to 6th (7th), and with a large front. from 5th to last 8- (9).th.

Now let’s talk about choosing stars. It is impossible in advance to accurately match a particular transmission to specific road conditions. Of course there are many formulas, graphs and tables, but most of them are Calculated for road bikes, fair weather, and smooth asphalt. Should the conditions change, and all the calculations are down the drain. The choice of gear depends on the road or lack of it, the slope of the track, temperature, ground conditions, tire pressure, wind, the rider’s physical condition, adrenaline and blood sugar levels. There are other criteria that cyclists can be guided by. One of them is cadence. It is known that the optimal cadence when driving on a horizontal surface. for example, in road bikes. is an average of 95 115 rpm, while in cross-country riders this value will already be 70.90 rpm. But for amateurs and cyclists, this is just a guideline, not a rule. There is no need to try to start immediately from high gears; first, in low gears, we warm up the muscles, unwinding to optimal gears. When choosing a gear, as in any business, the cyclist needs to stick to the “golden mean”, and not fall into extremes. A slow pace of driving in large gears is very detrimental to the condition of the knee joints. Pedaling too often will reduce driving efficiency and cause fatigue faster. In difficult road conditions (driving on mud, sand, grass or snow), the gears are lowered due to the fact that the torque reserve is required. The technical capabilities of the switches do not always allow the chain to be dramatically shifted from small to large stars. For mountain hikes with backpacks, a set of chainrings, e.g. 48, 38 and 28 teeth, is usually sufficient.

When driving in a wind or uphill, you need to switch to “lower gear” close to 1: 1). This set of gears increases cadence but decreases speed. When driving on flat terrain, the gear ratio can be 4: 1 to maintain speed. When racing a motorcycle, a speed of over 100 km / h can be achieved. In these record-breaking rides, cyclists use a gear ratio of 8: 1 or more. However, usually the muscle strength of the legs is not enough to spin such gears from the spot. Even athletes do NOT use gears greater than 5: 1, but rather increase their cadence.

In 1985, in the United States, John Howard set a speed record of 245.077 km / h. For the first time he covered 241 kilometers on a bicycle in one hour. Ten years later, Rompelberg Fred from the Netherlands broke his world bicycle speed record with a result of 269 km / h.

Many novice cyclists avoid frequent gear changes and even when riding upwind, leave the chain on the large drive and small driven gears. Their ride is more like a sailboat maneuvers against the wind. As a result, after such a ride, knee pain can naturally occur. Meanwhile, a competent cyclist when riding upwind, having reduced the gear ratio to 2-3: 1, will be able to maintain a higher speed with less effort. In small gears, pedal at a frequency of 80-90 rpm. / Min.

Thus, some recommendations can be made:

  • At the beginning of the season, it is recommended to drive at least 200-300 km in low gears and with a high pedaling frequency.
  • It is better to start the morning “rolling in” with lower gears for 15-20 minutes.
  • Long-term cycling is aided by an even cadence at a comfortable pace for the cyclist. By cleverly selecting gears, this can be achieved even on hilly roads.