Switch on the go
Shifting gears is possible only while the bike is moving. In a stationary state, the shifter will also work, but the position chain will NOT change. Then, after the start of the movement, there will be a sharp jump from one star to another. This can cause the chain to jump off or get stuck between the sprockets.
Switch step by step
For the same reason, on inexpensive switches, it is impossible to simultaneously fold or raise the gear by several values at once. This needs to be done in stages: click. Moving the chain. Multiple pedal rotations. Click- etc. In case you are trying to be thrown over several stars, you will need to make sure that the chain is in the right position and only then apply force.
Internal switching mechanism
City bikes often use an internal gearshift mechanism hidden inside the rear planetary hub (for example, the new Forward Surf 2.0 cruiser). Bicycles with a planetary hub have only one chainring and one rear chainring. The number of speeds / gears in the planetary bushings is most often from 3 to 7 The planetary hub has a rather complex internal structure.
Pluses of planetary bushings:
they withstand adverse weather and road conditions well, since the mechanism and all its parts are enclosed in a case and, as a result, are reliable and durable;
you can switch speeds, and not pedaling.
Cons of planetary hubs:
– heavy weight;
– very difficult repairs, impossible in field conditions.
Correct gear shifting (for beginners)
Back in the dashing nineties There was no such understanding as changing speeds on a bicycle. Our iron horses had the same speed and were similar to each other, we braked with pedals and did NOT think that a cool novelty would appear soon. Bicycles with speeds have a foothold in the market, probably forever. But whether their owners know how to use them correctly, we will discuss below.
It would be weird to have a bike with different gears but not be able to use them. Even modern children, when they receive a long-awaited two-wheeled friend as a gift, first of all ask the question about the number of its speeds. There is no limit to their joy when they hear some big number (Allegedly, the more, the cooler). Cycling professionals always rely on themselves, and not on one or another gear, but competent gear shifting will only multiply the cyclist’s abilities.
If earlier the driver of the bike hoped only for himself and adjusted to the terrain, now he has his own assistant.
Now the fables are equipped with two blocks of stars: front and rear. The front sprocket is the leading and the rear driven.
The correct selection of gear for a particular type of driving is of great importance. There is a whole block of rules on how to switch speeds on a bicycle:
- It is forbidden to switch speeds if the bike is NOT moving (planetary equipment does NOT apply to this)
- While driving, you need to switch speeds at a time when the pedal is not spinning. At this point, the circuit is NOT under load, hence switching is easy and smooth. In the opposite case, it is fraught with difficulty in gear shifting, breakdown of the entire mechanism or chain;
- When climbing a hill, do not cost a higher speed, this must be done while climbing;
- If you are new to cycling, you need to switch speed after speed, rather than jumping over several. ;
- Will adversely affect bike performance Severe chain misalignment.
What bike speeds are for and how to use them
They allow you to go faster or spend less effort on movement than a single-speed transmission. Moreover, in some situations it will be completely impossible to ride a bicycle with one single gear (for example, in a very steep climb).
However, today almost no one doubts the expediency of a multi-speed transmission on a bicycle. The only question remains is the correct gear shifting. How to change gears correctly? Let’s formulate some simple but fundamental rules:
1. Shifting between gears only while the bike is moving (this rule does not apply to planetary hubs).
2. Try to change gears when the load from the chain is removed or insignificant, otherwise you will not be able to switch, and even break the gearshift mechanisms or break the chain (this largely depends on the quality level of the bicycle components). The front derailleurs are especially hard.
3. We do not recommend a higher gear when overcoming hills, I pick up the gears in front of the mountain (riders use uphill shifting if necessary, but this technique requires skill and a “sense of the bike”).
4. Without proper skill, and do not switch to several gears at once. Do it in stages: after waiting for the clear work of one gear, go to the next (this moment also depends on the class of bike equipment and the skill of the cyclist).
5. Avoid large “skew” of the chain.
Let’s take a closer look at the switching process itself:
An ordinary modern bicycle has 2-3 stars in the front and 8-10 stars in the back. The numbering of the front stars is from 1 to 3. In the direction of increasing the stars, the numbering of the rear stars is from 1 to 8 (9.10), in the direction of decreasing the stars.
For simplicity, let’s take the popular budget 38 drive as an example:
The large chainring is used when driving on a good, level road (asphalt or compacted soil) in the absence of strong headwinds. Tracking sprockets 8 to 4 are usually used with this sprocket. Although in sports riding and racing, you can often see any combination of.
The conditions that we have described above are just a guideline for understanding when and what kind of programs it is rational to use. But the determining factors are always the specific riding conditions and the level of training of the cyclist. Beginners should always remember about the correct cadence, which in general should NOT drop below 60 rpm when moving evenly. And remember that you need to look not at the switches, but at the road.
Ideally, one should strive to move to the intuitive level of shifting, which athletes and experienced cyclists are fluent in. It should absolutely not matter to you how many gears and what type of drive is on your bike. You will not think about switching at all: everything will happen automatically, depending on the current road or racing situation. The clarity of the gears depends on the class of equipment, the degree of wear of parts, the correct setting of the devices, the condition of the cables and their jackets, as well as the degree of contamination of the mechanisms and the chain.
The gears were invented for convenience and more comfortable riding on the bike, thanks to them you can choose the optimal force applied to the pedals so that the cyclist can easily overcome obstacles in his path (ups, downs, soil) There are several gearshift mechanisms on a mountain bike types:
K rotary-type switch (grip-shift, revoshift). they work in a manner similar to the throttle lever on motorcycles. Gear shifting is carried out by rotating a special shift knob on the shifter. towards yourself or away from you.
Lever mechanisms (rapid-fire, trigger, dual-control) include shifters that switch speeds using one or two levers. There are single-lever and two-lever. In double-lever shifters. one lever is responsible for increasing the gear, and the other, on the contrary, lowering.
Basically on modern high-speed bikes, the right derailleur is responsible for shifting the reverse gears, and the left derailleur is responsible for the front.
Speed bikes usually have 3 stars in the front and 6-10 (/. 2) in the back. If you look at the numbers on the shifter, the front stars from 1-3 go up (1 is the smallest star), and the back ones, on the contrary, go down (1 is the largest).
Here are some more tips on how to shift gears correctly:
1. If on the left shifter (chainrings) the switch is in position “3” (the largest chainring). mainly used for acceleration on a flat road, with this sprocket it is rational to use small rear sprockets on the rear wheel.
2. Small chainring, position “1”, it is rational to use with large chainrings on the rear wheel. You will need this for significant climbs, off-road driving, sand, etc.
3. When changing gears, ideally, you need to feel the bike yourself, control the load on the pedals, in general, everything will come with time.
Additional rules for switching speeds on a bicycle:
1. Without increasing the gear when overcoming hills, it is necessary to switch to a lower gear in advance of the mountain.
2. Shift so that the chain is not too skewed. For example, on the front sprocket, the chain is on the largest sprocket (3) and at the back, too, on the largest (1). there will be a skew.
3. Switching speeds must be carried out while the bike is moving.
4. Avoid abrupt switching, immediately through several stars, switching should be alternate. It is necessary before switching to wait for the clarity of the previous one, then switch to the next.
5. Do not start at the fastest gears to avoid breaking the chain or breaking the derailleur. Try to make the shifting balanced, if the load on the pedals is large. you need to switch to a lighter gear.
There is a special science in shifting gears on a bicycle; at first glance, everything is simple. Two levers on the left, two on the right, or even just a flu-shift. what could be easier. But nevertheless, observing the Beginner cyclists, one may notice Not quite correct and coordinated actions. But consistency when cycling is the most important thing! Only in this way will you be able to move around on a bike as efficiently as possible, make maneuvers, and overcome obstacles.
As an example, we will consider the most ordinary mountain bike (MTB) with three stars in front and 8-9 in the back.
Let’s immediately highlight the most common errors and problems:
Too heavy gear is a common mistake. Many newbies even say that 44 (or even 48) stars in front are NOT enough for them. It’s a delusion. Constantly spinning a heavy gear you just kill your knees. Try to keep track of your cadence (cadence) until It comes to automaticity. You can even count the number of revolutions per minute for fun. If about 90-100, then this is very good. And so, gears 44-11 are enough to accelerate across the plain to
60 km / h. So try to convince those who say that 44 stars are not enough for the city. By doing this, you may help keep people healthy.
Curve. it is not uncommon to observe how people, without looking at the chain, include gears like 3-1.2. In this case, the chain goes to bend, its wear increases, at the wrong moment it can simply fly off. The optimum chain position is when it passes from the chainring to the rear with minimal skew. So watch out not only for easy twisting, but also for the position of the chain.
Switching under load. this is how even fragile girls manage to break chains, which speaks of healthy men. And what a crunch at the same time. When shifting, we reduce the load on the pedals to a minimum, just rotate them with ease until the chain does NOT jump to the desired sprocket. Therefore, it always makes sense to assess the situation, Possible obstacles and change gear in advance. .
Chain biting is when, when shifting, the chain is pulled in front of them, stars up. An unpleasant situation in which the nib near the carriage assembly could be severely scratched. This could be due to cogging on the star, dirt, improper assembly and setup. This is another plus to why you need to Watch out for shifting, and not just mindlessly clicking the shifter. All movements should be smooth, even airy
Chain skipping. for example, you put a new chain on an already similar cassette (by the way, the chain resource
1500 km). As a result, when the load on the pedals increases, the chain slips and the pedals fail unpleasantly. This needs to be taken into account and the trains are more careful until Everything gets used to it. Even for a fairly strong running cassette, the rubbing period is about 200 kilometers.
If you are new to the saddle, pay a lot of attention to pedaling, gear shifting, try to work both in front of it and the rear derailleur. Try to choose a gear depending on the maneuver being made. For example: you are a brake, but for this you will need to accelerate. Shift the gear lighter even when braking, then it will accelerate faster.
Types of speed switches
There are two main types of speed switches. external and internal shifting.
Maintenance Tips for the Gear Shift System
Cyclists are always very sensitive to their fables. Some even talk to them and ask them NOT to let them down at the next race. Many treat their pets as if they were alive, so you need to take good care of them often and well. There are situations when the gear changes by itself or does not change when you need it. In most cases, this indicates worn parts, but often there are cases when grass, dirt and debris gets into the mechanism or the part needs to be lubricated. With periodic and correct technical inspection of your two-wheeled friend, he will serve you for a long time and faithfully.
Always listen to your bike. If something is wrong with him, he will definitely let you know. Sounds not inherent in the normal operation of the bike are already a sign that you need to look at the details.
Always check the chain for contamination, adequate lubrication and elongation. Replacing every season.
A professional cyclist (as mentioned above) has a good feel for his bike, and intuitively understands when and how to change speed. Everything happens so reflexively that when you need to change the speed, you DO NOT think about it, but simply do.
Cadence is the number of cadences a cyclist takes in one minute. Each cyclist has his own cadence, which must be chosen correctly so as not to get injured, and the pedaling speed is comfortable.
You don’t need to pedal too slow or too fast, in the first case it is a waste of energy, and in the second you will get up quickly. Only personal feelings will help you find the perfect cadence. This is influenced by the physical training of the driver and the direction of the wind.
You need to move without changing the rhythm in any gear. This will save you strength for a long time, which in turn will help you travel more distance.
They say that it is obviously impossible to match the speed to the road conditions. There are all sorts of calculations and calculations about this, but they are designed for ideal driving conditions, where the road is smooth as glass and the wind does NOT resist at all. As soon as the equal condition changes, all calculations turn into a complete zero. Before choosing a speed, many factors influencing it are taken into account: the quality of the road, the ascents and descents, temperature, tire pressure, sports training and the well-being of the cyclist, the level of adrenaline and blood sugar, etc.
Cadence plays an important role:
The average pedaling figure ranges from 95 to 115 rpm (assuming driving on a flat surface)
Average pedal scrolling figure ranges from 70 to 90 rpm.
But these figures are for professionals only. For beginners, however, you need to start gradually improving their performance, you need to squeeze the maximum from each gear and only then they will switch to the next one, there is no need to rush.
Do not forget about your health as well, for example, high gear, combined with a slow pace, will negatively affect the joints of the knees.
In bad weather and on bad roads, you need to lower the gear for the stock of torque. The same goes for riding upwind or steep climbs.
September 19, 2018, American, Denise Mueller-Korenek, set the world speed record on a bicycle, 295.6 km / h.
External switching mechanism
This type of derailleur is used on most multi-speed bikes, from city bikes (like Forward Dortmund 2.0) to mountain bikes (like Forward Agris 27.5 3.0 disc). Gear shifting is carried out using the front and rear derailleurs.
The front derailleur transfers the chain between the chainrings. The derailleur design has a moving frame within which the bicycle chain runs. When changing the speeds of the Shifter, the frame moves and becomes over the desired star, which ensures the movement of the chain to this star.
The rear derailleur is a spring-return mechanism that moves the frame (or foot) with rollers fixed between them within the transverse axis. In one direction, the switch is moved with a cable, and in the opposite direction, with a return spring. When you move the switch, the chain passed through it is thrown from one rear sprocket to another, and the chain tensioner automatically removes the chain slack.
Pros of external switches:
a large number of gears
Cons of external switches:
– strongly influenced by unfavorable external factors
– the need for adjustment and maintenance
– risk of breakage if the bike falls
– it is impossible to change gears if the bike is stationary
Why bike speeds are needed and what are the switches
By changing gears on your two-wheeled vehicle, you can save energy and time, enjoy driving off-road or city streets with heavy traffic. But even if you bought a multi-speed hardtail, however, you have no idea what gears are, what they are for and how to use them, then an expensive purchase will not be fully utilized.
What are the transfers for?
The gearshift mechanism makes the ride more comfortable and pedaling more efficient. By changing the speed, you can choose the optimal mode depending on:
- Terrain. ascent / descent,
- Features of the road surface. smooth asphalt or a broken country road, a forest path or a rolled primer;
- Suitable travel speed. switched on a lower gear, you can move smoothly on a winding path or gradually increase gears, dynamically accelerate on a flat road;
- Natural factors. tail or head wind;
- Physical fitness of the rider.
Correctly selected gears engaged on time extend the life of the bike and create less stress on the knee joints.
The gearshift system is a transmission. It includes various parts and assemblies: carriage, chains, sprockets or cassette, connecting rods, front and rear derailleurs. shifters. They must transmit the muscular energy of the rider by converting it into a rotational motion of the rear wheel.
There are two types of gear shifting:
- Classic switching or external;
- Planetary hub or internal shifting.
The first type is used on many modern multi-speed bikes. The switch is activated by throwing the chain between the stars.
In the second case, a rather complex mechanism is involved, placed inside the planetary hub. In such bicycles there can be only one front and rear sprocket, from three to seven gears. Such mechanisms are complex, which automatically makes a bicycle with a planetary hub more expensive. However, for riders who buy a bike to ride for pleasure on city streets and parks, the planetary hub is a good solution. Due to the fact that the shift mechanism is hidden inside the bushing, there is a risk of sticking with dirt, clogging with dust. The Planetary Hubs have poor maintainability, but there are no reasons for the need for repairs with proper operation. Planetary hubs are more often equipped with cruisers. There are many such models in the line of Schwinn cruisers. the oldest American bicycle company.
What happens when you change gear
The shifting process begins at the moment the cyclist presses the shifter lever. Shifter. Reverse gears are shifted by the Shifter located on the right on the steering wheel, forward gears are shifted to the left. When pressed, the chain is dragged from one star to another.
The Basics of Proper Shifting and Choosing Bicycle Speeds
What speeds are optimal depending on road conditions can be seen in the picture.
There are no strict guidelines on this, and the rider himself eventually begins to understand what is convenient for him. Here are some tips for making the gear shifting process efficient and safe for your bike’s drivetrain. You need to switch the speeds on the bike:
- In advance. before a long ascent or descent begins;
- Consistently. without jumping over several gears at once;
- On the move, especially if the gearshift system is based on stars and not based on a planetary hub;
- No load on the pedals;
- Presses the lever of the shifter. otherwise, switching will NOT occur, and you will hear the grinding of metal or other extraneous sound;
- Switches instantly front and rear derailleurs.
By choosing the right gears, enjoy dynamic driving and freedom of movement! Those who do not see the point in constant “clattering” can give preference to the often more budgetary, but certainly no less comfortable singlespeeds. The option to change the pace of the ride by throwing the chain over the stars is equipped with all MTB bikes. In the second cases, in the line of manufacturers, you can pick up a bike for 1, 3, 7 or more speeds.
In order to switch speeds, just return or pull the switch on the steering wheel. Switches (they are also shifters) are of several types:
- Rotational (the speeds are switched by turning the handle)
- Lever (on the steering wheel there are special levers for switching speeds)
- Griptshift (the handle should be rotated away from you or towards you);
- Finger levers (one lever changes the speed down, the other up).
All these devices cost about the same, the latter were invented recently and will cost you a little more.
What are we for
Switching the speed on the bike, we throw the chain from sprocket to sprocket and change the cadence, that is, the cadence, taking into account the force required to press them. By varying the gear ratio between the pedals and the wheel, we can change the pressure on the pedals. In order for the energy to be evenly distributed during rotation, we turn on different gears.
When riding in rural areas, on steep inclines or descents, the cyclist is forced to pedal at high speed. One, two, three times this can be done without risk to health, but constant experiments on the body can lead to serious problems with blood vessels. What can be done? Turn on the lowest possible speed. The bike will go slower, but the load on the muscles and blood vessels will decrease due to the pedaling speed.
When descending, the speed, on the contrary, will need to be increased. You have to put in a little more effort, but the bike will accelerate and run smoother. For driving on flat surfaces in the city, average speeds are usually chosen, while the chain is stretched evenly, and the load is distributed between muscle groups.
It turns out that the multi-speed system passes the following tests with dignity:
- Climbing steep hills;
- Abrupt descent from the hills;
- Overcoming high barriers;
- Driving on sand, mud, off-road.
Summarizing what has been said, we can summarize: transmissions are necessary to save muscle energy in different parts of the path. That is why the question of the number of speeds directly depends on what bike and on what roads you are going to ride.
What is the best number of bike speeds
During their youth, our fathers never dreamed that a bicycle could be multi-speed. Such novelties existed at that time only in the West: in the middle of the twentieth century, a bicycle with an asterisk on the front and rear wheels was designed in Italy by the inventor Tullio Compagnoli.
The number of gears increased from decade to decade, and today (in SEPARATE models for cycling) exceeds 10. But does it always mean a lot? To understand how many speeds a bike has better, you need to figure out in which cases they make the cyclist’s life easier, and in what. They only complicate.
It’s all about the stars
The number of views directly depends on the type of bike. Usually there are two leading stars on Road Bikes and three leading stars on mountain bikes, but there are exceptions. At the same time, there are additional stars: for example, 3 and 7-10 gears are installed on road bikes on the front and rear wheels, respectively. To determine the total number of gears, you need to multiply the number of views on both wheels. It is easy to determine that the number on modern road bikes ranges from 21 to 30. City bikes are often equipped with five gears in the back and two in the back. Ten speeds will be more than enough for them. Most modern city bikes are equipped with seven starter gears. Do NOT need a lot of speeds and children’s bikes.
Live at full speed
No matter how many speeds you choose, each sprocket has its own service life. Any cycling enthusiast can extend the life of the gearshift system, which includes chain, cassette, gears and pedals. It is enough to remember a few rules.
- Try NOT to shift gears uphill. Select the first speed for both stars and keep it until the end of the climb.
- After climbing or descending on a smooth surface of the track Remember to return the switch to medium speed.
- The speed can only be changed when the pedals are spinning, that is, when the bike is in motion. Otherwise, the chain will wear out quickly.
- The difference between the chain gears should NOT be higher than 4. If you put the maximum speed on one star and the maximum speed on the other, the chain will stretch a lot and the whole system will break.
- Do not forget to take good care of the chain in a timely manner. If the bike is used in a comfortable environment, the chain can be simply wiped with a dry cloth and coated with bike chain lubricant. If off-road driving is practiced, before lubricating the chain, it will need to be washed with a special mixture or ordinary kerosene.
Concluding the conversation about the number of speeds, I would like to note that ride comfort is a very, very individual thing. For some, 28 speeds are not enough, but for someone it is pleasant to ride along the paths of the park, and not bothering with thoughts about gears. Walking, cycling, commuting or cycling professional. it all depends on your goals.
Why does a bicycle need horns?
- The horns allow you to change your grip during a long ride. Constant tonic muscle contraction. The flexors of the forearm and hand in the same position cause stagnation of blood, constant stress on the same joints leads to painful sensations, and the same static position can lead to pain and stiffness in the back. Since the horns are located in a different plane, they significantly relieve the hands and make life easier for a cyclist for a while.
- Cycle horns act as a handlebar limiter and prevent hands from slipping, especially in wet weather without gloves.
- Provides a protective function for the steering equipment if you place the bike upside down.
- If the bike (hopefully, without a cyclist) rolls forward and lands right on the bottom, on solid ground. they save all the steering equipment.
- In motion, you can hang something on the horn, for example, a flashlight or a bag with a loaf, if you are too lazy to put on a backpack.
- If you are exhausted and roll your bike up a steep hill, then it is much more convenient and easier to hold on to the horns, in addition, it is just convenient to hold the bike by the “horns” when crossing a mountain river, for example, on a hike.
- The horn can be fitted with a bicycle rearview mirror, and in the model shown below it is fitted as a folding knife.
- If you find Rain on the road, then it is very convenient to fix the corners of the bike raincoat on the bicycle horns.
- The most important quality of the horns is that they allow standing on the pedals and grabbing them to climb steep hills. This engages additional muscles such as the biceps and abdominal muscles.
- Finally, if there are old, worn-out soft rubber grips on the steering wheel, which constantly “slip”, then the installation of horns along the edges of the steering wheel will solve this issue.
What are the disadvantages of horns?
- If you decide to fit bike horns, keep in mind that there will be less space on the handlebars. There are two ways out of this: either move the shifters and brake levers to the center of the steering wheel (in the event that the horns are attached to the edge of the steering wheel), or install the horns inside the steering wheel. This option is more dangerous, since the closer to the center of the steering wheel lie the hands, the more effort is required to turn, and, therefore, the longer.
- When installing the horns, the time increases to pack the bike into the cover and pull it out of the cover, especially if the cover is “back to back”.
- If you hook a passerby with a horned steering wheel, you can cause him more serious injury than a simple steering wheel.
- If cycling tracks are too far out, then in narrow spaces (for example, on a bridge or a narrow forest path), they can suddenly catch on the steering wheel, and, even worse, turn it sharply at a speed at right angles. In this case, a fall over the head is inevitable.
- In addition, if the horns land on the cyclist after a fall, and the bike itself is behind them, they can cause serious injuries, for example, rib fractures.
- It is important that you ride with one hand on the horn and the other. Showing the direction of a turn is much more difficult than driving with one hand on the steering wheel. This is explained by the fact that in the first case we control a small section of the steering wheel, and there is a much greater risk of incorrect movement.
- In case of passing a risky area with the possibility of emergency braking, or in the case of descent at high speed, hands should always be removed from the horns and held on the brake levers, otherwise you can lose precious time.
Bicycle horns: what are they and why are they needed
You may ask: why are there horns on the steering wheel, in addition to the mass of beautiful cables, shifters, brake levers? Then, it’s just cool to start with! The steering wheel gets “aggressive”, Brutal continuation from a completely different angle. Adults remember the “Tourist” bicycles, which were a welcome purchase for every fan. In addition to shifting gears, this road bike had a special handlebar bent forward and then rings downward, “Rams Horn”. This, however, was a special shape of the handlebars, which contributed to a more “racing” fit of the cyclist and reduced wind resistance. Thus, this shape of the steering wheel was needed not only for beauty.
Not every bike needs horns: for example, if the main load is distributed to the saddle, the back is held upright, then horns are simply not needed. Since the body is not tilted forward and a large load is not distributed on the arms. An example is the following bicycle model.
It’s a completely different thing in mountain biking:
On bikes like this, the distribution of gravity is biased towards the arms, so the bike horns are highly desirable.
How to choose the right horns
Horns are subdivided in length into short, medium and long. By material, these are metal (aluminum), carbon fiber (carbon) and plastic. There are also differences in the type of attachment. Below are examples of long aluminum horn (150 mm) and short plastic horns with grips.
It is best to choose long devices. Hands do not slip off them, there are several options for gripping, they well protect the hands from whipping branches.
If you are thinking about how to choose a material, then the best compromise between price, quality and weight is aluminum. At the same time, aluminum horns can be of any color, both with a metallic sheen and matte. Plastic horns are the most unreliable, since plastic is fragile.
How to install horns
The horns are installed on the bicycle handlebars most often using clamps. You need to be extra careful if you have a carbon handlebar. To prevent it from cracking, look for reinforced seats on it.
One of the fundamental points is the determination of the installation site. You have to decide if you leave the steering gear in place or move it inward.
Next, you need to decide whether you will shift the grips or trim them. Trimming the grips at the ends is used when the horn is installed internally into the end of the rudder. This option is convenient to save space on the steering wheel.
It is worth recalling the slope of the horns. Choose the corner that suits you best. You can experiment with any location, but it is better to start at an angle of 45 ° C with the ground plane.