The throttle stick on the e-bike does not work

Assistant type and throttle

Both bikes are equipped with a torque sensor, in other words. torque sensor. That is, the energy supplied by the controller to the motor is directly proportional to the pedal effort. the harder you press, the more the electrician helps you.

The use of a torque sensor increases the efficiency of battery power consumption, in contrast to the PAS sensor, which detects the very fact of pedaling, and allows the cyclist to practically do not exert his own efforts to move.

Unlike the Lapierre e-bike, the Electronbikes have a throttle grip that allows you to ride it without pedaling, like on an electric motorcycle.

On the one hand, when there is no throttle handle, you are forced to pedal, which means that you invest your energy in the energy of movement, while the battery will be consumed more economically and the mileage will increase.

On the other hand, if you have not calculated your strength and found yourself exhausted, and there is enough battery charge, you can allow yourself to relax and enjoy the oncoming stream of fresh air.

In addition, the throttle grip can play a good service if you suddenly get injured away from civilization or in the forest and cannot pedal.

Controller

A more powerful motor draws more current, so the controller on an Electronbikes bike is rated for 16A, versus 7A for a competitor.

In the Lapierre central motor, the controller is built into the motor housing, while on Electronbikes the controller is outside, which improves its heat dissipation.

As I mentioned, the Electronbikes controller has a built-in thermal protection that protects the motor from overheating. In addition, the company is preparing its own controller for serial production, which significantly surpasses the Chinese versions in terms of power and compactness. they report this on their Instagram.

Wiring

Virtually all of the wiring on a Lapierre bike is hidden in the inner frame cavities, with the exception of the handlebar wires. This makes the appearance of an e-bike more minimal and less distinguishable from a regular bike.

On Electronbikes, the wiring is partly hidden inside the downtube and partly visible. wires from the controller to the engine and battery. At the same time, it is implemented using sealed connectors, and its openness does not affect the performance in any way.

Lithium-ion battery

Thanks to the special shape of the Lapierre frame, designed to integrate with the battery, the latter is practically invisible, and an untrained person will not immediately guess that this model is electric.

The Fazua eBike system on the Lapierre bike is designed so that the motor and battery are in one unit. That is, to remove the battery, you must first remove the motor-battery unit (see the “Engine” section), and then remove the battery from it.

The battery weighs 1.38 kg and has a built-in power button and LED indicator for battery level.

throttle, stick, e-bike, does, work

Both bikes have quick-release batteries, meaning they can be removed and installed in a matter of seconds. But don’t worry about safety. batteries are secured with a lock.

The Electronbikes battery weighs 3.2 kg but is more than 2x the capacity of the Lapierre battery (576 Wh vs 252 Wh) and is a must for a more powerful motor.

Lapierre company

Lapierre was founded in 1946 in France by Gaston Lapierre, who in 1960 transferred control to his son Jackie Lapierre, and in 1996 he, in turn, transferred control to his son, Gilles Lapierre. Such is the family business that has successfully survived to this day.

In the course of its existence and development, the company has sponsored many cycling clubs, among which there are many winners of both the French national championship and the World Cups.

The company’s engineers have developed and patented, among others, the FPS rear suspension system, followed by the FPS2 version, and the OST suspension platform.

Since 2013, the company has launched the Overvolt concept with two electric mountain bikes, and this fall Lapierre launched the eZesty 2020 carbon MTB model.

The Lapierre eZesty range consists of two models: eZesty AM LTD Ultimate 2020 and eZesty AM 9.0 Ultimate 2020. We will consider the first option, which is the top one.

Russian manufacturers of e-bikes (and there are only a few of them) are also moving forward, and in the fall of 2019, Electronbikes released its version of a light MTB e-bike on a carbon frame.

Engine

Due to the fact that the motor on the Lapierre bike is located in the battery-motor unit, it can be easily removed and replaced if necessary.

The weight of the battery-motor unit without the battery is about 2 kg, with the battery. 3.3 kg.

Cadence

Most carriage electric motors from European and American brands operate at maximum efficiency at 75 pedal strokes per minute. The fewer pedals and the slower the rhythm, the sooner your ride will end.

Trajectory of movement

Each hitting a root, hole or stone is a loss of energy. Learn to look further and build such a trajectory of the electric bike to avoid the maximum number of obstacles. This skill, in addition to increasing the mileage, also preserves health, since human evolution has not provided protection against constant blows from the saddle to the base of the spinal column and from the steering wheel to the hands. Each braking is a new acceleration and energy consumption. On flat terrain, try to build a trajectory that allows you to use the brake as little as possible. Straight trajectory may seem faster, but is not always the best in terms of energy savings.

Blocking the shock absorbers

The suspension lock concept for increased performance doesn’t work when it comes to rough terrain. This will not only decrease comfort but also eat up the range. A working and properly adjusted suspension allows the bike to overcome obstacles without even perceiving them as obstacles.

How the range of an e-bike on a single charge depends on the battery?

Is increasing battery capacity the only way to increase the range of your e-bike? Not. This is not the only way.

With the right riding technique, you can make a real difference to your potential mileage without investing a dime. Here are a selection of tips for increasing your mileage:

Factors affecting the range of an e-bike

The power consumption of the battery and the power reserve without recharging are significantly influenced by:

  • The total weight of the e-bike, cyclist and luggage. With increasing load, the mileage decreases.
  • Electric motor type. Reduced models allow you to drive a distance of about 30% more than direct-drive models (with the same parameters). Therefore, geared wheel motors or carriage electric motors are installed on city bicycles, and direct drive motors are used on high-speed electric bicycles.
  • The larger the battery capacity, the higher the range. Higher speed means less range. With an increase in speed, the energy consumption also increases, which is spent on overcoming the friction force and all resistances (rolling, aerodynamic, etc.). They have a quadratic dependence on speed: if you go twice as fast, it will take 4 times more energy to overcome resistance.
  • Road surface quality.
  • Tire features and tire pressure.
  • Wind direction and aerodynamic properties of the ebike kit.
  • Riding style. As standard, the electric motor operates in pedaling assist mode. The more the motor helps, the less the mileage.
  • The power reserve is reduced due to starts on electric traction and sharp accelerations, since they consume a large amount of energy.

In order to roughly estimate the dependence of the power reserve on the battery capacity, I recommend playing with the calculator. And here is another one for Bosch motors.

What your battery will look like in conjunction with a specific motor can be estimated on the simulator.

The network has tests that answer the questions:. Which bike will go further? With a small battery and a weak motor, or with a large battery and a powerful motor? Here is a video exploring this topic. Heart rate, rate and calories burned were also measured.

Sensors

On e-bikes, there are two types of sensors (sensors): cadence sensors and torque (torque sensor). E-bikes with torque sensors are considered by some to be more battery-friendly. But no one conducted tests.

Battery capacity and range of the e-bike

What is the range of an e-bike on a single battery charge? This is the main question that interests people who are thinking about purchasing or assembling an electric bike.

In general, the answer to this question is simple: the range of an e-bike on a single charge depends not so much on the battery as on the comfort of your bike, the firmness of your ass, and your pedaling ability. We’re talking about an electric bike, not an electric motorcycle. On an e-bike, the motor assists in pedaling. When using Bafang motors, you can ride without pedaling, but it is better not to abuse it, since a regular bicycle battery will not last long for this style. On electric bicycles from European and American brands, the ability to ride without pedaling is not provided at all.

Most of the rhetoric about the range of an electric bike on the throttle comes from men who have lost the ability to actively move due to health problems, irreversible age changes or laziness. If you look at what they ride in reality, it usually turns out that these are powerful electric scooters from which decorative bicycle pedals stick out.

The problem is in the terminology, since we here call e-bikes, like slender Chinese designs in the lowest price range, such as Xiaomi HIMO C20, or Xiaomi YunBike C1, and electric scooters, electric motorcycles, disguised as bicycles at a price of 200,000 rubles.

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Infineon 3 Controller (6-FET)

Programmable controller with touchless operation and various additional functions.

Touch version. for geared and gearless (direct drive) motor wheels, including MAC motors.

Sensorless version. only gearless direct drive motor wheel.

  • Controller;
  • Optional. throttle handle with a three-position speed switch (full or half. at choice);
  • Optional. USB lanyard for configuring the controller
  • Waveform. trapezoid;
  • The throttle stick controls the speed;
  • Ability to work without hall sensors in the sensorless version;
  • Working voltage range: 36. 60 V;
  • Working long-term battery current: 20 A (open installation);
  • Operating long-term phase current: 45 A (open installation);
  • Maximum phase current: 90 A;
  • Toshiba 100V transistors (RDS = 2.9 mOhm);
  • Regenerative braking;
  • Cruise control;
  • Auto detection of the motor (see below);
  • Possibility of connecting a three-position speed limit switch;
  • The ability to connect the on-board computer CycleAnalyst 2.3. 3 (shunt resistance. 4 mOhm);
  • Possibility of configuring parameters from a PC (Windows);
  • Battery connector: original XT60 male;
  • Motor connectors: original XT150 male (sensor version) or Anderson PP30 (sensorless version);
  • Power wires: copper 4 mm2 in high temperature insulation

Auto detection of the motor (sensorless version) allows the controller to work with arbitrarily connected phases and halls of the motor (for example, with little-known motors, the correct combination of which is unknown).

For autodetection, you need to do the following:

  • Turn off the controller;
  • Close the white wire;
  • Enable controller.

The wheel will start to spin quickly by itself. If it rotates in the right direction. you need to turn off the controller and open the white wire. All is ready. If it rotates in the opposite direction. turn off the controller, turn it on again (now it will rotate in the correct direction). Then turn off the controller and open the white wire.

Note: In the sensorless version, the controller works only with Direct-drive motors.!

Guarantee

1 year warranty when used with E4BIKE motors, 3 months when used with other motors. The warranty works under the following conditions:

  • a protective machine is used, which can be made independently (C63 of any well-known company) or purchased from us;
  • the controller is located openly, that is, it is not hidden in the frame, case, bag;
  • when using a battery equipped with symmetrical BMS, in the first 10% of the discharge, the regeneration is not used at full capacity.

48v electric bike throttle problems fixed

The warranty also does not apply in case of opening the case, ingress of moisture inside, shorting phase wires, using incompatible accessories.

Configurable parameters:

  • Purchase a cable;
  • Install the driver for the cable;
  • Use our program for setting (Russian English interface).

Attention: The controller firmware allows changing the current in a wide range, including the ability to set a current that is many times higher than the permissible battery current. In some cases, in the presence of the corresponding symptoms, we reserve the right to refuse warranty repair of the battery. Treat your technique with care, you drive quieter. further you will.

Connectors

All connectors are initially compatible without alterations. Pinouts are given for information.

Firmware instructions

Plastic cable, with or without button:

    Make sure that the driver has been installed correctly: go to the device manager and make sure that in the Ports (COM LPT) section there is a Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port device and it is working properly. Remember the COM port number. If the device is not present or it does not work. try using this instruction.

Disconnect controller from battery or turn off with throttle.

Run the Parameter Configuration Utility.

Select the port that was indicated on the cable in step 5.

Click on the “Load parameters to controller” button in the program.

Connect the cable to the controller. If the cable has a button. click on it.

    Make sure only one red diode is on, if others are on or blinking, or red is off. a problem with the driver, try using this instruction.

Disconnect controller from battery or turn off with throttle.

Make sure that the red diode is on and the green one blinks barely noticeably. If this is not the case. try to reconnect the cable to the controller, change the USB port or restart the computer.

“Consumables”

One of the most regularly troubling problems is a puncture. This was followed by tire wear, rubber rupture along the cord. These components are “consumables”, so tune in: physically, mentally and financially. On a regular basis, you will have to: spend money, get your hands dirty. Only the one who does not drive does not pierce.

How to extend the life of bicycle tires. read here. Read here what most often causes a puncture of a camera on a bicycle. And take appropriate action.

Only the one who does not skate does not pierce

Not an engine, not a battery: what most often breaks down in an e-bike

Wheel motor, controller, throttle stick, control panel. these components have a long service life. What then usually breaks in e-bikes?

With proper handling and timely maintenance, the above mentioned components will last forever. And the bike base, which is regularly worn out (regardless of whether you are under a regular or electric bike), can break (usually breaks).

  • Bushings
  • Carriage
  • Rims
  • Spokes
  • Chain
  • Bearings
  • Tires
  • Cameras

The better the “base”, the less the owner will have the need to go to the workshop. Even if you manually “glue” the electric motor to the bike or simply replace the usual one with an electric wheel, the bike will not break down more often because of this. So if you are suddenly looking to buy a brand new e-bike, head for good components and accessories (reliable frame and fork, great brakes, strong rims and spokes). This is a kind of guarantee that if you get to a visit to the master, it will not be soon.

Bent rims are one of the most common problems on a bicycle (regardless of type)

Transmission

The stars, cassette and chain are also consumables. Regular friction, wrong gear shifting, ignorance of cleaning, lack of lubrication, these are all nails in the coffin of your transmission. Want it to serve as long as possible. love to serve it.

Clean and lubricate your transmission regularly for a long service life

What most often breaks down in an e-bike

Rims

They bend (thanks, Ukrainian asphalt), rub in the friction zone of the brake pads. Another common cause of bike rim curvature is uneven spoke tension. In general, wheels are a separate topic of conversation.

By the way, about the tension of the spokes. See how it’s done correctly, learn and ride on smooth rims:

Bearings and bushings

In second place among the most frequent breakdowns are bushings. Most often they fail when driving through deep puddles, streams In addition to water, sand, clay, mud, silt can get there (and certainly do) In return, you get at least a creak of bearings. And this will certainly begin to complicate the move, take away watts: either your legs, or an electric motor, or both. And yes: rushing an electric bike through puddles and streams is an extremely rash idea, because we all know how water affects electrical engineering.

Change bearings and check bushings regularly. Don’t let them “eat” your watts

Situation # 2. the valve is difficult to open

If the gas control valve on the stove turns with difficulty, then grease has adhered to the stem inside its mechanism, which interferes with the free movement of the handle. It is necessary to remove and clean it from dirt.

The pen is cleaned from grease using ordinary soapy water and water. After it is wiped dry and dried, and then smeared with a thin layer of grease and put back.

Finding out the causes of the problem

If the burner on the gas stove does not burn well or does not ignite, then you must first disconnect the equipment from gas and electricity. The hob may only be inspected and repaired after shutting off the gas fuel supply.

Basic security measures cannot be neglected here.

Many modern gas stoves are equipped with electronics and automatic ignition systems that require power supply. Often, inexperienced home craftsmen, when working with a gas hob, forget about this feature of this appliance. As a result, sparks ignite methane vapors. Therefore, before starting the repair, it is recommended to disconnect from the network not only the stove itself, but in general all electrical appliances in the kitchen.

Problems with gas stove burners arise due to:

  • incorrect operation of the solenoid valve and / or thermocouple;
  • nozzles clogged with grease and soot;
  • malfunctioning spark plugs;
  • long interruption in service of gas equipment.

The owners of private houses and apartments, where there is a gas stove, are obliged to conclude an agreement for the regular inspection of the equipment in question with a specialized organization. Without such an agreement, gas will not be supplied to the consumer.

And gas workers should come at least once a year, checking the efficiency of the hob and, if necessary, immediately repairing it. All other calls are charged separately.

over, if during self-repair of the burners and other devices of the hob they are damaged, then it is forbidden to turn on the faulty device without gas workers. Even if the stove is more or less operational, then, during an annual check, a specialist of the gas company will detect a breakdown and immediately turn off the gas until the defects are eliminated. And these are inevitable additional expenses. Plus, they may also impose a fine.

It is recommended to take on the repair of a gas stove with your own hands only if you are sure that you will do everything correctly. There are no particular difficulties in these works, but you can break something through negligence or ignorance.

  • The flame is not supposed to be blue. there is not enough oxygen or too much gas is supplied to the nozzle.
  • The burner does not ignite. the spray holes are clogged with soot or the thermocouple or spark plug is faulty.
  • The fire goes out. the gas supply is cut off due to faulty gas control or problems with the gas pipe.

You can clean or replace the burner on the gas stove yourself. But if the problem area is a meter, directly a gas pipe (cylinder) or an external gas sensor, then it is better to abandon arbitrariness.

In such a situation, you should seek help from the gas workers responsible for the serviceability of the VKGO and VDGO.

Situation # 1. the flame is not blue

If everything is in order, then the gas above the burner should rise from all nozzles with an even blue flame. If the fire contains pink or yellow hues, then methane (propane-butane) does not have enough oxygen for normal combustion.

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If the flame is not blue, then the reason for this must be sought in the ventilation. Methane simply does not have enough oxygen required for complete combustion.

  • provide additional air flow by opening a wider window or transom;
  • check the hood for clogging;
  • reduce the volume of gas supply to the burner by slightly closing the valve.

If the air exchange is normal, and the fire is still not of the proper color, then the level of the minimum flame must be adjusted.

When the screw is turned inside the valve, the plate is displaced, which is responsible for the mixing ratio of gas and oxygen. It is necessary to set it to the desired position, and then light the burner to check the color of the flame.

Situation # 4. incorrect operation of ignition

Each hotplate has a thermocouple flame sensor and a spark plug (if available). Both elements are designed for continuous operation in burning gas at high temperatures. However, over time, even they burn out and fail.

If, when the valve is open, gas comes out of the burner, hisses, but does not light up from automatic ignition, then the problem is in the candle. It is necessary to check the wiring for breakdown with a multimeter, as well as the reliability of its connection to the terminals.

If the insulation is damaged in the wiring, it is best to replace this cable. over, it must be exclusively in a heat-resistant sheath. Do not cover the damage with electrical tape. The metal body of the gas stove is heated to sufficiently high temperatures. Ordinary insulating tape will melt sooner or later.

The candle itself can only be cleaned of carbon deposits using sandpaper. If there is no scale, and the wire passes the current as it should, then the candle will have to be changed.

To restore the functionality of the thermocouple, it is necessary to clean the tip of the burner with emery paper from carbon deposits. Plus, you need to check the wire connection contacts and the wiring itself. If this does not help, then only replacement will help.

If one burner does not work on the gas stove, then the cause of the problems should be looked for in it. This can be due to both clogging of the burner holes with fat, and the combustion of a thermocouple or candle. But if all the burners do not work, then first you need to check the flow of gas into the gas equipment.

Situation # 3. burner nozzles clogged

Grease and / or soot accumulated in the nozzle outlets is the most common reason for stopping gas hob operation.

If the burner of the gas stove stops turning on and does not burn, then the root of the problems must first be looked for in this place.

The design of the hob is such that most of the food leftovers on it remains on top of the hob. Only its upper surface and the grate, on which pots and pans are placed, are stained. However, even a small part of this fat still gets into the holes of the burner and under it into the gas supply channel. As a result, at some point, blue fuel simply ceases to flow for combustion.

To clean the burner nozzle, you must:

  • Remove the grate, divider and burner, and then lift the top plate of the stove.
  • Clean and rinse the burner in warm water and soap or detergent.
  • Clean the gas inlet under the nozzle.

It is recommended to clean the holes in the burner from dirt with wooden toothpicks. If you use metal objects for this, you can widen the holes too much. Then the flame will burn unevenly.

The inner tube under the burner has a diameter of up to 1 cm. It can be cleaned with a thin metal wire. Toothpicks won’t help here. They are too small and fragile. If cleaning the nozzles did not help, you will have to resort to replacing them.

Why the burner on the gas stove does not work: common causes and how to fix them

Regardless of the model and manufacturer, the gas hob can stop functioning properly at any time. The flame is of the wrong color or is not uniform, the ignition does not want to work as expected, the gas control solenoid valve closes. there are many options for malfunctions. And, if the burner on the gas stove does not work, then, first of all, there is a desire to contact the company with which you have signed a contract for the supply of blue fuel.

However, you must agree that paying a lot of money for calling the master, when it is possible to solve the problem on your own, also does not make much sense. Why involve gas workers, if you can restore the working capacity of gas equipment with your own hands. This is a little off the rules, but with the right approach to repair work, it is quite acceptable.

Self-repair instructions

According to the law, only a specialist of the service company with which you must have a corresponding contract has the right to replace the burners and other elements in the gas stove. However, if there is an urgent need, minor repairs can be performed on your own, and to say that this was done in order to avoid more serious problems.

If after such work with your own hands the stove is working properly, then the gas workers will not be able to make claims.

Before starting work, remove all sources of open fire from the kitchen and prepare a flashlight so that you can look into the farthest corners of the gas appliance. Also from the tools you will need a wrench, screwdriver and pliers.

If the burner does not light up, then first you need to check the presence of gas in the pipe (cylinder). Perhaps the problem lies not in the gas equipment at all. Only after it has been clearly determined that the hob is the problem point, one should proceed to its inspection and disassembly.

Configurable parameters:

  • Purchase a cable;
  • Install the driver for the cable;
  • Use our program for setting (Russian English interface).

Attention: The controller firmware allows changing the current in a wide range, including the ability to set a current that is many times higher than the permissible battery current. In some cases, in the presence of the corresponding symptoms, we reserve the right to refuse warranty repair of the battery. Treat your technique with care, you drive quieter. further you will.

Guarantee

1 year warranty when used with E4BIKE motors, 3 months when used with other motors. The warranty works under the following conditions:

  • a protective machine is used, which can be made independently (C63 of any well-known company) or purchased from us;
  • the controller is located openly, that is, it is not hidden in the frame, case, bag;
  • when using a battery equipped with symmetrical BMS, in the first 10% of the discharge, the regeneration is not used at full capacity.

The warranty also does not apply in case of opening the case, ingress of moisture inside, shorting phase wires, using incompatible accessories.

Throttle Does work troubleshooting For Ecotric Electric Bike

Connectors

All connectors are initially compatible without alterations. Pinouts are given for information.

Sine wave controller Infineon 4 (6-FET)

Programmable controller with various additional functions.

Works only with direct drive motor wheels.

  • Controller;
  • Optional. throttle handle with a three-position speed switch (full or half. at choice);
  • Optional. USB lanyard for configuring the controller
  • Waveform. sinus;
  • The throttle stick controls the speed;
  • Working voltage range: 24. 96 V;
  • Working long-term battery current: 20 A (open installation);
  • Operating long-term phase current: 45 A (open installation);
  • Maximum phase current: 90 A;
  • Toshiba 100V transistors (RDS = 2.9 mOhm);
  • Regenerative braking (activated by closing any of the two appropriate contacts);
  • Cruise control (activated by closing the appropriate contact);
  • Possibility of connecting a three-position switch for limiting power and speed;
  • The ability to connect the on-board computer CycleAnalyst 2.3. 3 (shunt resistance. 4 mOhm);
  • Possibility of configuring parameters from a PC (Windows);
  • Battery connector: original XT60 male;
  • Motor connectors: original XT150 male;
  • Power wires: copper 4 mm2 in high temperature insulation

Attention: The controller works only with direct drive motor wheels! Controller DOES NOT WORK with MAC motors.

Firmware instructions

Plastic cable, with or without button:

    Make sure that the driver has been installed correctly: go to the device manager and make sure that in the Ports (COM LPT) section there is a Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port device and it is working properly. Remember the COM port number. If the device is not present or it does not work. try using this instruction.

Disconnect controller from battery or turn off with throttle.

Run the Parameter Configuration Utility.

Select the port that was indicated on the cable in step 5.

Click on the “Load parameters to controller” button in the program.

Connect the cable to the controller. If the cable has a button. click on it.

    Make sure only one red diode is on, if others are on or blinking, or red is off. a problem with the driver, try using this instruction.

Disconnect controller from battery or turn off with throttle.

Make sure that the red diode is on and the green one blinks barely noticeably. If this is not the case. try to reconnect the cable to the controller, change the USB port or restart the computer.

E-bike troubleshooting

As in the case of the operation of any electromechanical device, sooner or later there may come a moment when some kind of breakdown occurs in the electric bike. It goes without saying that in order to identify and recognize a problem, you need to know how a given vehicle operates in normal operation. over, it is important not only how the electric bike rides, but also how the elements of electronics, control and power behave during regular use. It is this kind of knowledge that can be the key to troubleshooting e-bike problems.

Engine (motor-wheel), control unit (controller), throttle stick, batteries, additional electrical components system. all of these devices must work as one team to ensure correct operation. Each element must be connected correctly and must also function correctly. It happens that components stop working normally due to a loose connection of wires or even due to poorly selected layout of electrical elements. Therefore, the main goal is if something in the e-bike stops working normally. identify the cause of the malfunction, find the location of the breakdown, and only then undertake repairs.

Be realistic about your capabilities. If you are not sure that you will be able to cope with the task of repairing, or you have absolutely no knowledge of electrical engineering, it is better to trust a professional. After all, your own self-confidence and ignorance can turn for you into the fact that some of the components of an electric bike will be irrevocably damaged by your hands.

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If something in the e-bike stops working, the first thing to look out for is the wires. They must ensure reliable contact of the components with the batteries, not have external damage. Therefore, you do not need to immediately panic if the electric bike stopped working, perhaps the wired contacts have just gone somewhere.

A thing like a reduced range on a single charge could be a sign that the battery needs replacing. Incorrect operating noise, as a rule, will lead you to the engine. If the motor does not work when it should, first of all pay attention to the battery charge indicator. Usually, a very simple way out of this problem can be found. The motor-wheel may stop working due to the discharge of batteries, disconnection or breakage of wires, or the occurrence of some minor interruptions in the operation of the electronic control unit.

If the e-bike is equipped with a modern control panel capable of displaying electronic fault codes, it will be very easy to identify the problem. If there is no such diagnostic electrical equipment on the bike, in case of incorrect operation of the electrical system, you will have to independently deal with the location of the malfunction or contact a specialist. To determine whether it is necessary to repair a specific, rather “suspicious” part, or, on the contrary, to confirm its serviceability, you can use a simple diagnostic method by installing this component on another electric bike. If testing shows that this part is the cause of the e-bike failure. repair it or replace it with a new one. If nothing changes in the operation of this unit when installed on another vehicle, you need to look for the cause in another place.

Problems with controller, wheel motor, throttle

Electronic device. controller. is a kind of connecting link between the throttle handle of the electric bike and the motor-wheel, therefore, if something in it breaks down, the engine stops working.

Burnout of some of the controller electronics components can usually be identified visually and by the characteristic unpleasant burning smell. When power transistors burn out, this smell will be present unambiguously. Since during combustion the controller can rarely be repaired, try to accurately follow the rules for its connection and operation. this will save you from damage. Remember, as a rule, short circuits in the controller occur due to the fault of the user.

All controllers are equipped with protection against damage, overload and overheating in the form of circuit breakers, fuses, current limiters and thermal switches. Their job is to protect active electrical components from damage. Therefore, if the electric bike system overheats, the cyclist may even have to wait 20 twenty minutes until the controller allows him to continue driving with the electric motor turned on.

Problems in the operation of the controller can be caused by improper connection of this electronic unit or motor-wheel, or a lack of contact at the place of their connection. Therefore, it is especially important to precisely adhere to the connection diagram supplied on the case of the aluminum box with a bundle of wires. The most common causes of bike controller failure. unsoldering wires in the board, malfunctions in the operation of elements that are involved in switching the windings of the electric motor, as well as problems with capacitors.

The nominal service life of brushless electric motors is quite long, but it happens that these motors also fail. Hall sensors can sometimes break in motor-wheels. However, given that these elements are quite easy to change even by independent efforts and cost a penny, they can assure you that such a small repair of a bicycle motor-wheel will not cause much discomfort to anyone. The rotor position sensors can fail due to voltage surges, mechanical damage, severe overheating of the motor-wheel, water leakage into the body of the throttle or engine. The main symptom of Hall sensors failure is the twitching of the motor-wheel in place when the accelerator handle is turned.

It is quite simple to fix the breakdown of the sensors. for this it is enough to use a voltmeter. True, it will be more difficult to determine which of the sensors has failed, therefore, if such a need arises (the wheel twitches during operation), replace them all. Tiny parts such as Hall sensors are fixed in the grooves of the stator with a special varnish. Removing them from their seats and replacing them with new ones is not difficult. you just need to follow the simple instructions for the correct disassembly and repair of the motor-wheel.

The electric motor can also stop working as a result of a break in the winding, damage to the wiring leading to the axis, erasing of the gears in the event that a geared type motor is used. As well as installing new Hall sensors, replacing bearings and insulating the wiring will not be difficult for anyone.

The most common reasons why the wheel motor stops responding when the throttle is turned:

1) There is no power on the battery (this moment is displayed on the battery level indicator of the control panel or throttle)

2) The integrity of the wires is broken, there are no contacts, the electrical components are incorrectly connected.

3) Hall sensors of the wheel motor burned out, a transistor or other controller element malfunctioned.

Unfortunately, the throttle grips are the component of the bike electric assembly that most often fails. A lever or a rotating grip can break in the throttle grip due to mishandling by vehicle owners or other mechanical damage. Another option for failure is a malfunction associated with Hall sensors, which track its angle of rotation and transmit a control signal to the controller.

When batteries need to be replaced

Most of the problems associated with premature failure of rechargeable batteries lies in non-observance of the rules for their operation. In addition to a significant reduction in the life of batteries due to the use of an inappropriate type of charger, improper use and storage, due to some negligence of the user, there are frequent cases of short circuit and fire of battery power supplies.

We have already mentioned the rules for operating chemical power sources and possible ways to increase their service life in previous articles, therefore we will not talk about the same thing once again, but we will draw the readers’ attention to the issue of minimizing the risk of a short circuit in the battery.

Most types of batteries used in electric transport are classified as flammable, so they need to be handled with great care and “respect”. To reduce the risk of battery fire:

Do not use open flames near batteries

To connect the terminals, start with “plus”, and only then go to minus

Connect the battery only to a working wiring

Before disconnecting the wiring from the battery terminals, turn off the electronics connected to them.

Use a BMS (Battery Management System) if the power source is a “smart” (lithium) battery

If the battery becomes very hot while charging, or if there is an unusual odor, there is a problem with the battery or charger. If these symptoms are observed in the battery or charger. unplug them immediately from the power supply.

One of the problems faced by e-bike owners is the rapid discharge of batteries with a relatively low mileage. The reason for this phenomenon may lie in the presence of a weak battery segment in the battery pack, which leads to a deterioration in the performance of the entire battery. For best long-term performance, the battery must be balanced. Operation of an unbalanced battery carries the risk of overheating of a weak cell during charging, its fire and the release of toxic gases.

A battery with a damaged casing must always be replaced immediately. The leakage of electrolyte carries a risk not only in terms of the possibility of fire, but also damage to human health, since the liquid contained in the batteries is quite corrosive.

The older the batteries get, the shorter the time they can hold a charge, and the shorter the travel distance becomes after recharging. This moment is explained by the destruction of the internal battery plates by the sulfation process (rust). To help the battery to maintain its youth for a long time, you need to adhere to the rules of its operation. So, for example, SLA AGM batteries during a period of long non-use for their intended purpose must be stored fully charged, meanwhile, periodically, at least once a month, feeding from the mains. You need to recharge the batteries every time as soon as the charge level drops and only one indicator starts to glow.

Signs that may indicate wear and tear and the need to replace batteries include:

E-bike malfunction symptoms

The On button does not work. / Off. electronics.

Controller faulty or incorrectly connected.

Replace the element where the power button is located.

Replace the fuse with a new one with the same specification.

Check the correct position of the brakes.

Check controller connection, repair if necessary.

Inspect the motor connection, repair it

Inflate the tires to the maximum pressure indicated on the sidewall.

The output transistor in the controller is out of order.

Repair of the motor-wheel / controller wired system

Overheating from low tire pressure.

Faulty controller or temperature sensor.

Inflate the tires to the maximum pressure indicated on the sidewall.

Replace or repair the controller.

Inflate the tires to the maximum pressure indicated on the sidewall.

Malfunctions in the electronics (controller)

Some of the Hall sensors of the wheel motor burned out

Other engine malfunctions have occurred

Low battery voltage (battery discharged)

Some of the battery cells give a drawdown

Check battery voltage with a voltmeter, replace defective battery.

Elimination of defects of the throttle handle. Pre-check the throttle handle with a voltmeter. the voltage on the signal drive should vary from 1 to 4.2V with a smooth change in its position.

Repair the power activation button / lock.

If the operation of the electric bike reveals other malfunctions that differ from those indicated above, contact the technical center specializing in the repair of transport electrical equipment.