The rear wheel of a child’s bike does not spin

Eight on a bicycle wheel. fix it yourself

The spoke wheel is one of the most classic elements of your bike, as it is found on most modern bicycles. The configuration of such a wheel includes:

  • Center bushing
  • Rim
  • Spokes

In the course of long-term operation, the wheel is subjected to significant stress and can be deformed over time. Therefore, every cyclist should be able to fix simple problems on his own.

Wheel deformation is called “figure eight” in the event that part of the rim deviates from the plane of rotation. With such a malfunction, you can ride a bike, but there will be no pleasure from such a walk. over, over time, the figure eight will lead to the fact that the rim will completely become unusable and will need to be replaced with a new one. Therefore, it is better not to delay and fix the problem immediately after its identification.

How to correctly identify the presence of an eight?

If you begin to suspect that the wheel is deformed, the first step is to find the place where the rim is curved. This can be done in two ways:

In the first case, you simply spin the wheel vigorously and define a curved section. It will constantly move away from the plane of rotation. At this point, you need to grab the wheel with your hand and mark the deformed area with a marker. Preferring the contact method, you take a marker and rotate the wheel, drag it along the rim. The marker should make a full circle and after that you will clearly see the place of deformation.

rear, wheel, child, bike, does, spin

how to identify the eight

After you have identified the area of ​​deformation, the only thing left is to eliminate the figure eight. You can easily do it yourself without asking for help from specialists. There are two main ways to eliminate the figure eight:

  • Forceful method
  • Tightening method

Experienced cyclists do not really trust this method and resort to it in the event that the deformation of the wheel caught them suddenly on the road and you need to fix the malfunction in order to get to the destination. In order to correct the figure eight by force, it is necessary to remove the wheel from the frame, turn the deformed section towards you and firmly grab the rim and tire on both sides. Press the deformation area with your knee and press away from you with maximum force. It is difficult to call this method effective due to the following reasons:

  • You will not be able to eliminate small bumps
  • There is a risk of bending the rim the other way
  • Eliminating the figure eight by this method is very inconvenient.
  • Some rims are simply not subject to human force

Eliminating the adjustment by tightening the spokes

elimination of the figure eight by pulling the knitting needles

The rear wheel of a child’s bike does not spin

In pursuit of the lowest cost of production and the highest revenue, many manufacturers neglect some operations. For example, by eliminating overtightening of bushings, carriages, chains (when the wheel, when spinning, makes one revolution, and a lot of effort is needed to rotate the pedals). And if on bicycles for adults, the hub settings are still acceptable, then on children’s bicycles everything is very sad.

If everything on the bike spins easily, then you are very lucky, but we will consider the worst case, when nothing really spins at all.

Taper wrenches 13/14 and 15/16 mm (there are taper wrenches having all these sizes in one).

Wrenches 10, 14, 15, 17 mm (depending on the size of the lock nut. it can be different).

Adjustable wrench up to 32mm range (different sizes of steering nuts on different bikes).

This is how the wheel of a new bicycle spins in our case.

The cone of the front wheel in most cases has a wrench size of 13/14 mm, so take it and a 17 mm wrench (on children’s bicycles, the lock nut can be 15 mm).

While holding the cone, grab the locknut on the other side of the wheel with a wrench, loosen the cone slightly

Re-grasp the loosened locknut with a wrench and tighten it while still holding the bushing taper. If the wheel is still spinning hard, repeat the procedure.

!Important. You need to choose the moment when the wheel spins easily, overtightening is eliminated, but no backlash has formed either.

If there is any play, take another 17mm wrench and tighten the locknuts on both sides with a little effort.

!Don’t overdo it! If you overtighten the locknuts with the cones, there is a risk of extruding the hub cups or leaving noticeable marks on them that prevent rotation.

After revision, the wheel spins longer and easier

The procedure is the same as for the front wheel with minor adjustments.

A flare wrench in most cases is 15/16 mm in size (in some cases it is 17 and 19 mm).

When eliminating overload on the rear hub with a foot brake, loosen the cone only on the right side (where the star is installed).

When eliminating overtightening on the rear hub of a high-speed bike, it will be more convenient to loosen the cone on the left side, because you do not have to remove the sprocket block (if there is a disc brake, especially the CenterLock standard, this recommendation does not apply).

Most bogies on children’s bicycles are collapsible, with 2 cups (one with a retaining ring), a square shaft or wedges, 2 bearings.

Bottom brackets can also be BMX bike designs with large bearings. If you have one, then simply loosen the lock nut 36 on the left side and adjust the tightening torque. Left-hand thread!

Cartridge carriages are a rarity, but if your child‘s bike is on a cartridge, you don’t need to fine-tune the carriage.

Using a chisel and a hammer, we unscrew the retaining ring (the thread is right, so we spin it to the left)

Leaning against the groove of the cup with a chisel, we slightly unwind the cup with weak hammer blows. After turning the pedals and making sure that the carriage shaft rotates easily, without the feeling of “staggered” rotation, tighten the lock nut

!Don’t overdo it. If there is a gap, tighten the cup. Otherwise, the bearing will break much faster, and can also leave a depletion on the shaft and carriage cups.

With the chain, the problem is as follows: the rear wheel is simply bolted to the frame with the maximum chain tension, because of this, enormous resistance is formed when pedaling.

In the video, the chain is overtightened, it should not be so

Loosen the 17mm nuts securing the wheel to the frame

Unscrew the bolt and nut that secure the brake arm to the frame

Align the wheel so that the chain is not overtightened.

Tighten the nuts on both sides alternately and evenly.

As a result, after tightening the nuts, when you press on the chain, it should give in by about 1 cm

!The stars can be far from ideal, having a significant oval, due to which in one place the chain is overtightened, in another weakened, in the third it is normally tensioned. Choose a moment so that the chain is not overtightened, but also does not fall off the stars when pedaling.

We are talking about the threaded headset, which are most often found on children’s bicycles.

Remove the handlebar by loosening the 12/13 mm bolt (maybe a hex head).

Unscrew the lock nut with an adjustable wrench (can be from 28 to 32 mm in size).

Either with the key, or with your hand, select a moment when the steering wheel rotates freely and has no backlash.

Pedals are a lottery game, and cheap kids’ bikes can have terrible plain bearings. Accordingly, they hardly spin. There is only one way out. to throw them away and buy new ones.

If the pedals have rolling bearings, but they still spin badly, then our article “How to eliminate pedal play” will help you. From it you will understand how to disassemble the pedal and what needs to be done not only to eliminate backlash, but also overtightening.

In addition to eliminating overtightening on children’s bicycles, it is very important to change the lubricant in the rear hub. Structurally, the rear hub with a foot brake is so far from ideal in terms of ease of rotation, and if the manufacturer pulled it over, and even regretted good lubrication for it (which almost always happens), then no pleasure from riding will be obtained.

Therefore, we made an article, after reading which, in the presence of two keys, a screwdriver and lubricant, you can sort out the bushing, change the lubricant and give your child great joy from the ease of riding a bike.

Is it possible to lubricate a children’s bike with something to make it easier to pedal?

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Well, anoint the chain, without fanaticism, so as not to wash your pants. If we are talking about a single-speed lisapeda, then try to loosen the rear hub a little, well, and stuff some lithol there. and so it will pump up the legs and go)

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The rear wheel is spinning badly.

Let’s look at the possible causes of the problem and find out how you can solve it yourself, saving your time and money.

The wheel does not spin at all: what to do?

Consider the case when it does not rotate forward or backward. The biggest mistake would be trying to turn it by force. Brake pads or a bicycle chain may interfere with normal operation.

In the first case, it is necessary to carry out the usual brake adjustment. Check the tension of the cables and how they react to pressing the brake lever. When deflated, the permissible distance between the pads and the disc is no more than 2 mm for each side.

If everything is in order with the brake system, lift the chain and then put it on again, turn the pedals in both directions. Always try to find a couple of minutes to test these mechanisms, because nothing breaks by itself.

Decelerated rotation speed

If you notice that the rear wheel is spinning tightly, this is a reason to be wary. Complicating matters is the fact that the owners often attribute the difficulties in movement to the features of the terrain or to insufficiently good sports form. The sooner you diagnose a problem, the easier it will be to fix it. To test the bike for a malfunction, flip it over onto the handlebars and compare the rpm of both wheels.

The most common reasons are:

The need for adjustment is easily determined by rotating the drum clockwise, alternately squeezing and releasing the lever. The rim should be parallel to the shoes. When the lever is released, the wheel should not cling to the pads. If they hit the rim, adjust the cable. With a slight imbalance, it can be debugged directly on the steering wheel by tightening the fastening on the lever with shaped bolts.

Inherent in new products, but not a defect. You should not try to debug the pads. after a few trips, they will rub themselves onto the rim. We’ll have to be patient, as the first test drives will be accompanied by a characteristic sound.

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Usually occurs when dropped or carelessly used. Although new units from the factory box are flawed. The disc can be straightened even in the field. Turn the bike over, spinning the wheel with the saddle down, determine the place where the disc touches the pads, and return it to its original position. With a simple adjustable wrench, you can do the job with ease. Be careful, otherwise you will have to re-align it.

Difficulties at the start

There are times when the rear wheel is spinning, but you put in considerable effort to get under way and continue on your way. Not only can this ruin your day, but it can also affect your driving safety. Some unscrupulous manufacturers, in an effort to reduce costs, neglect operations such as eliminating overtightening of bushings and chains.

Perhaps the cones began to press down on the rim and interfere with movement. Before you proceed directly to the adjustment, experts advise to remove the disc so as not to accidentally damage the bushing. This is easily done by unscrewing a few bolts. Then release the nut and unscrew the cone no whiter than one turn. You will need two keys: one is convenient to fix the cone, the other is to release the nut. After returning to normal rotation, secure the nut, but be careful and hold the cone so as not to overtighten it again.

The swing principle will help to determine the correct setting. Spin the wheel in one direction, after a certain number of revolutions it will start to rotate back. If there is no reverse motion, you need to slightly stretch the bushing cones. When adjusting, a slight backlash is allowed.

Keep track of the condition of your “iron friend” and promptly respond to the slightest disruptions in his work, this will serve as a guarantee of your safety and good mood.

Steering column

The wheel bearing on loose bearings requires regular maintenance. To do this, unscrew the bolts holding the stem and anchor, then carefully remove the stem and fork. Remove balls from cage, clean and lubricate. Assemble the helmsman and tighten the armature carefully as it may break if pulled too tight.

Why the bike squeaks when riding and how to fix it

Sooner or later, all parts and mechanisms of a bicycle wear out. If suddenly you have an extraneous sound while riding, it means that any part of the bike began to work incorrectly. For a comfortable and safe ride, you must definitely correct the situation! But how to understand exactly where and why the bike squeaks?

Wheels

Due to the heavy load, the spokes weaken and begin to creak. All spokes must be tightened in a balanced manner.

Shuffling sounds often occur in the hub. Such a problem can arise if your cones are not tightened correctly, the bushing has unwound and has lost some of the balls, or if there is mechanical damage to the component parts of the part. What to do: Take apart the bushing and count the number of balls on both sides. If the number of balls is different, all of them must be replaced so that the size and degree of wear are the same for all balls. Inspect the balls and their seating for chips or cracks. Then lubricate the bearing and tighten the cones correctly: for this, leave a barely noticeable play. If you overtighten or, conversely, tighten poorly, then the life of the sleeve will rapidly decrease.

Pedaling and bike don’t go? Rear wheel easy lube fix for freewheel assembly

Brakes

Squeaking brakes are an indicator of improper operation of the pads. This situation can occur for various reasons: dirt or grease has got on the pad and / or rotor (rim), incorrect position of the pads in relation to the brake disc (rim) or their wear, etc.

Clean with sandpaper and degrease the rotor and pads with alcohol or gasoline and do not touch them with your fingers, as human skin produces fat, which, in fact, we are fighting with. The brake pads have a porous structure, so they easily absorb grease. Oiled pads are best replaced. After cleaning the rotor, spin the wheel and sharply press the brake lever so that the shoe rub against the brake disc. Repeat the procedure as needed.

If the reason for the squeak is worn pads, then simply replace them.

Mechanical brakes may squeak from the cable jacket if dirt or grease has dried out. To fix the problem, flush the jacket with WD-40 or another solvent and fill it with some silicone grease.

Pedals and bottom bracket

Sit on the bike, apply the brakes and alternately press the left and right pedals, and then crank them. If a squeak appears on only one side when you turn, then the problem is most likely in the pedal bearing.

First, determine if there are any visible mechanical damage on the pedals. If not, then the creak comes from the mechanism.

To eliminate cracking in the pedal, remove and disassemble it. When removing the pedals, remember that the thread types on the right and left pedals are different! The right pedal is unscrewed counterclockwise, and the left pedal is thus twisted. Carefully remove the balls, if you have loose bearing pedals, clean them, as well as the raceway and all nuts from dirt and old grease. Inspect all components of the mechanism for damage and rust.

If you find a problem, replace the part. It is recommended to replace the balls in any case, even if no chips or cracks are visible. If there are none, then lubricate the raceway with new grease, place the balls on it and assemble the pedal. It is necessary to tighten the nuts so that the pedal does not play (even better there will be a small and barely noticeable play), but it was not overtightened either. If the pedal still cracks, try to find the problem in the carriage.

The carriage is a very often wearing part, as it bears enormous loads when pedaling. If, when you press on the pedals, it squeaks on both sides, then you need to disassemble the carriage to identify the problem. To do this, remove the connecting rods and the carriage, coat the connecting rod axles, the threads of the carriage assembly and cups with grease. Then build the system. If you have a non-separable cartridge carriage installed, then it will have to be replaced.

Chain and rear derailleur

The chain must be lubricated every 100-200 kilometers. Excess oil on the outside of the links must be removed, otherwise dirt will quickly adhere to the chain. What if the unpleasant sound remains after smearing? Before lubrication, it is advisable to wash the chain not with water, but with organic solvents: gasoline, alcohol and others. They effectively remove dirt and degrease. Water does not penetrate hard-to-reach parts of the chain and can cause rust formation.

A crackling sound in the cassette area may be due to an unset switch. The sound comes from the chain jumping from one star to another. Adjust the switch to match each gear exactly to the desired cassette star.

Why bicycle pedals spin and what to do about it

The connecting rod-pedal group is the very unit thanks to which the bicycle is set in motion. One of the problems, why the bike does not ride well or does not move at all, is the cranking of the pedals. The problem arises unexpectedly, and with what it is connected, it is not easy to immediately understand. What causes the pedals to spin, and how to fix it, will be discussed later in the article.

Why pedals are spinning idle

  • increase in free wheeling;
  • weak spinning of the wheel;
  • chain slippage in motion.

If a malfunction is detected, there is a keen desire to check the pedals, more precisely, the drive connecting rod-pedal mechanism. Some of the scrolling is due to the carriage, but often the reasons lie elsewhere in the drivetrain:

  • rear wheel hub;
  • sprocket system. cassette or ratchet;
  • chain and chainrings.

The first reason is common for road bikes, mountain bikes, and single-speed bikes with hub-drum brakes. With long-term operation, the inner components of the bushing wear out, lose their engagement with each other, due to which the torque from the sprocket is not transmitted to the bushing. As a result, the cyclist pedals only the stars, but not the wheel itself.

The pedals rotate completely, and the wheel does not rotate. a neglected case when the hub fails. But most often there is an increase in free travel, the bike gets under way harder, slippage appears on the move.

Cassettes and ratchets are parts for high-speed bikes. Complete wear on cranks and bearings can cause chain slippage and idle pedaling. Other reasons are partial wear, dirty sprockets, too much or no lubrication.

The chain is the same on singlespeeds and speed bikes, so wear and / or dirt can cause the pedals to crank in both. In a stretched state, the chain hooks on the teeth of the stars worse, slipping over them. Ranges of total link length:

  • 304.8. 306.4 mm. normal chain;
  • 306.4. 308 mm. Average chain wear. May affect the transmission of torque, single pedal clicks are possible.
  • 308 mm and more. the chain is worn out, causes wear on the stars, slips and flies.

Worn chain sprockets, coupled with a worn chain, can also increase pedal cranking and bouncing. Although the problem may arise due to accumulated dirt.

Solving the problem on a regular bike

The first, and in some cases the surest, solution is to thoroughly clean and lubricate the transmission. Pay special attention to the sprockets and the inter-roller space of the chain. Before you clean the chain, you need to carefully dismantle it, and you cannot do without removing the rear wheel.

If after cleaning the problem persists, the wear of the chain and sprockets is high, you should consider replacing it. You need to install the kit immediately on the bike. The new chain will stretch quickly on the old sprockets, causing you to crank with renewed vigor.

Repair or replacement of the bushing is a cardinal solution to the problem:

  • Remove the wheel from the bike.
  • Spread the sleeve.
  • Inspect bushing bearings, axle and taper rollers for wear.

When strong workings form on the arched surfaces of the part, the rollers fall through. As a result, the cone does not engage with the hub body. It turns out that the inner part of the bushing rotates, and the outer part stays in place or lags behind, increasing wear.

The sleeve can be returned to the workshop for cone grinding. This will delay pedal scrolling for a while, but wear will still make itself felt. There is only one conclusion. to change the part completely.

How to fix spinning on a speed bike

The main reason why pedals spin the wheel poorly on a high-speed bike is complete wear of the rear sprocket system. First, it is determined how dirty the system is and its degree of wear. How to clean the cassette:

  • Take off the bike.
  • Clean the space between the stars with a flat brush.
  • Wipe the teeth and washers with a cloth soaked in kerosene.

After thorough cleaning of dirt, check the condition of the bearings. Scattered or knocked-out parts must be replaced. The state of the stars plays an important role. worn teeth indicate their unsuitability. This is especially true for small sprockets. here chain slip and pedal scrolling are more pronounced.

And, finally, check the performance of the system using the speed switch: through which stars the chain slips, they must be replaced. After cleaning and partial replacement, the system is lubricated.

Rear hubs can also fail, the problem is the same as with a single speed bike. The cassette must be removed to access the bushing. The condition and position of the bearings, wear of the cone and roller tappets are carefully checked. If there is a clear suspicion of the bushing, it is recommended to install a new part.

When the pedals just spin, it’s a sure sign of transmission wear. To prevent the problem from turning into more unpleasant consequences, you should diagnose the bike in time and eliminate the malfunction.

Clicks, crunches and knocks when pedaling

Sometimes you hear clicks, knocks and crunches when cycling, but the bike seems to be running fine. Stop and try to twist your hand separately the right and left pedals relative to your axis and the cranks. Then swing these three elements in the transverse plane. If there is any backlash, first make sure that the pedals are properly screwed to the connecting rods, and the connecting rods to the carriage shaft. If there is obvious jamming or, on the contrary, there is a clear play with a knock, then it is necessary to adjust (or repair) the bearings, respectively, in the pedals or the carriage. The carriages are now mostly non-separable, so instead of adjusting, they will need to be replaced entirely.

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We do not consider the issue of replacing the carriage or disassembling the pedals here in view of the large number of different options, as well as the need for specialized pullers. In general, you need to contact a workshop.

Bicycle pedal problems

Let’s discuss a few common bicycle pedal problems.

Pedals are spinning, but the bike is not moving

On one-speed or three-speed bicycles with a foot brake, it is possible that when the pedals are pressed firmly, they quickly turn almost without load for half a turn, and when moderately, the bike rides normally. The problem lies in the slipping of the freewheel roller mechanism without engagement due to or its wear. it is necessary to replace the bushing, or if grease gets on the rollers during the bushing reassembly. it is necessary to clean the rollers and their track from grease, lubricating only the bearing bearings of the bushing.

On multi-speed bicycles with a freewheel ratchet. this is the one that ticks at free speed and allows you to freely rotate the pedals back. a similar situation is possible, but there are nuances.

If the pedals spin the wheel normally, then rotate forward without the slightest effort together with the sprockets on the wheel, this means that the pawls in the ratchet do not engage. This can happen when the ratchet is worn out or when water, dirt or excess lubricant gets in. This usually manifests itself at low temperatures and goes away by itself in warmth. In the latter case, you can, by disassembling the ratchet, remove grease and dirt from the dogs. Due to the complexity, this procedure is usually carried out in a workshop.

Cheap bushings are equipped with threaded ratchets screwed onto the bushing. In this case, the entire ratchet is replaced, since the cost of repairs is close to the cost of the ratchet itself. Drum bushings can cost several times more, and the ratchet mechanism in them is hidden in the drum. part of the bushing itself. After removing the stars, you can change the drum separately. The problem is that the drums themselves can only be found for Shimano hubs and expensive branded hubs. If it is impossible to find a drum for your bushing, you just have to try to repair or clean the existing one. In case of failure, you will have to replace the entire hub with the wheel re-spacing.

It is possible that the pedaling occurs only under heavy load and not in all gears. First, make sure your gear selectors are properly set. If everything is in order, then the reason lies in the wear of the chain and stars. over, when replacing only the chain, the situation only gets worse. the backholes become stronger. the new chain gets on even worse on a worn out cassette. In this case, you will also have to change the cassette. And if you use aluminum sprockets, they can die even faster than cassettes and chains. In order to avoid such a situation as long as possible, it is worth purchasing a Gauge to determine chain wear and changing it before critical wear occurs. Then, the stars will be able to survive the change of several chains.

And now, finally, let’s move on to the problems of the pedals themselves and the carriage.

How to unscrew the pedals

Sometimes it is necessary to remove the pedals from the bike, for example to replace broken ones, pack the bike for transport or storage. Two troubles may lie in wait for you here. If the right pedal has a right-hand thread (unscrewed counterclockwise), then the left one, on the contrary, has a left-hand thread (unscrewed clockwise). When installing the pedals, see the markings on the pedals (R, L). it is absolutely impossible to swap them.

To unscrew the pedals, a 15 mm open-end wrench may be required, sometimes a thin or 6 mm hex key (insufficient strength) or 8 mm. Since the pedal axles are steel, and the cranks are aluminum, with prolonged use due to electrochemical corrosion, the pedals “stick” to the cranks and it can be extremely difficult to unscrew them. If it did not work to remove the pedals with an ordinary wrench, it is necessary to fill the thread with special compounds for the destruction of oxide, brake fluid or WD-40, let it settle and again try to unscrew it with an extension wrench. But without fanaticism, otherwise there is a chance to unscrew the pedals along with the thread. If that doesn’t help, the next step is to heat the connecting rods with a gas burner: aluminum has a greater thermal expansion than steel. This usually helps in any situation.

If the threads in the connecting rod are damaged, you can try to restore the connecting rod in the workshop using a case with cutting a new thread in the connecting rod. But this is not so reliable and not every workshop will undertake such work. So, be careful when installing and removing pedals.

When reinstalling the pedals, the threads must be cleaned and lubricated with a release agent to make it easier to remove the pedals next time. Nevertheless, you need to tighten the pedals with an average effort. about 40 Nm.

Complex bushings

The rear wheel arrangement is somewhat more complicated. On some models, a drum hub is installed. and the entire transmission system through in the form of a set of gears and shafts is packed inside the hub, by analogy with automotive transmission systems. Such bushings are very convenient to use, but have low efficiency, “eating up” from 8% of the load, and also have a lot of weight and a serious price.

Also, many are familiar with the brake bushings. They were installed on Soviet bicycles and are now often found in extra-budget models. A blocking or brake mechanism is placed inside the hub, which is triggered by the reverse force of the chain.

Planetary Bike Hub

Causes of occurrence

The main causes of backlash are the following:

  • abrasion of the wheel hub;
  • wear of the radius nut (in another way the cone) and damage to the bearing raceways;
  • abrasion of special notches on the locknut, which serve for a closer contact with the radius nut. The high degree of adhesion between the nuts prevents loosening;

Most often, these reasons arise during active use with extreme loads on the wheels and the bike as a whole. The period of use and the quality of parts play an equally important role.

The following causes can be eliminated without replacing parts:

  • weakening the compression between the radius and the locknut. Requires an elementary pull-up with a key:
  • the gap that appears after the wheel is in place between the bike frame and the locknut. It is necessary to fill the empty space with a washer or engraver;

What is backlash?

Classically, backlash is a small gap between mechanical parts that rotate relative to each other and are interconnected. Simply put, the free movement of one element, which does not lead to the movement of another element of the system.

Bicycle wheel play is some displacement of its plane relative to the axis of rotation or hub, leading to a figure-eight movement.

Due to the backlash during the ride, the so-called wheel beating is felt. This phenomenon occurs when the wheel is displaced to the right or left in relation to the vertical axis of motion.

We remove the backlash of the rear wheel

On the rear wheel, there is most often a bushing for a ratchet, much less often for a cassette. Therefore, we will consider the first option. The wheel is removed, disassembled, wiped, lubricated. Balls or bearings are installed. The axle is put in place with pre-screwed radius and locknuts.

The ratchet is removed. On the side where it is installed, the radius and locknut are tightened first. On the disc brake side. second. Do not forget to preset the tension of the bearings or balls.

During assembly, a situation often arises when the balls relax when tightening the second pair of nuts. An assistant (“third hand”) is required. If not, you can use a bicycle frame as such.

We put the ratchet in place. Checking how easily it rotates. We fix it in place with a clamping nut. We carry out the assembly in the same way as the front wheel.

The need to remove the ratchet is due to the fact that without this it is impossible to service the bushing. Otherwise, it is impossible to tighten the nuts located just under it with the required force and remove the radius nuts.

The voids when installing the wheel in place (in the “pants”) are also selected by installing a thick washer.

The installed wheel is pressed against the bicycle feather by a clamping nut (from the side of the ratchet) and is strongly pressed. Only after this operation does it become possible, without assistance, to set the correct tension of the balls and to properly clamp the radius and locknut both from the side of the brake disc and from the side of the ratchet.

After that, the wheel is fixed to the frame feather with two nuts, then it is checked for ease of rotation and the absence of backlash.

The rim is a round frame with a complex profile, which on one side is spoked to the wheel hub, and on the other, it provides space for securing the tube and tire. Tires are fixed on the rim either with a special groove (standard layout). this is called a box mount, or by gluing (narrow road wheels on a bicycle).

Previously, almost all manufactured rims were U-shaped, i.e. the profile was not rigid enough. Nowadays “double” rims are in vogue. Two additional stiffeners make the profile as strong as possible. For extreme disciplines, there are three-, four- and even five-chamber rim profiles, but for such a strength you will have to pay with both high cost and heavy weight. And the more weight, the more difficult it is to untwist and rotate such a device. Special U-shaped rim design typical of road bikes.

Rims are usually made of aluminum and its alloys, which have replaced steel structures. Sport rims are sometimes made of carbon fiber. maximum lightening and replacement of spokes with one-piece “blades” are compensated by the huge price and high fragility, which blocks the use of such rims on difficult roads and off-road.

For adult bicycles

Bicycles for adults tend to be of almost the same dimension. There are minor differences depending on the type of bike.

Most often they prefer to choose a diameter of 26 inches. This size is very convenient to use and transport, and it also takes up relatively little space, which is very practical when stored in an apartment. For those who prefer high speed, the 27-inch version will do. Most often, this dimension is found on road, high-speed bicycles.

For people with a height of 180 cm or more, you can purchase 29-inch wheels, so it will be much more convenient to ride.

Also read on this topic:

Bicycle wheel. The bicycle wheel takes on the loads that arise during the operation of this vehicle. The purpose of the wheel is to support the weight of the cyclist and the entire structure of the bicycle and to cope with the shock loads that arise from

Bicycle rims. On different types of bicycles, rims with different designs are installed, but the overwhelming majority are rims of the so-called box section. They are designed for tires with bead edges. In the rim itself

Bicycle wheel size. The overall size of a bicycle wheel is the rim diameter plus the thickness of the bicycle tire. The unit of measurement for the diameter of a bicycle wheel is English inches. There are now six common bicycle wheel sizes

Double-sided bushing. Double-sided hub (Flip-Flop). a hub that is designed to quickly change the type of drive and gear ratio by shifting the bicycle wheel 180 ° along its axis. It has threads on both sides and allows you to install

Bicycle cassette. For mountain bikes, cassettes are made with a set of stars from 11-28T to 11-36T for 8-10 stars. For road racers from 11 (12).22T to 11 (12).27T for 8. 11 stars. Campagnolo mountain cassettes are road compatible with equal number of stars

Front Hub Axle Standards

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Bike Tip. What to do when your crank and rear wheel lock up.

The large diameter of the hub axle provides for high rigidity and strength of the wheel-to-fork connection, although this increases the weight of the entire hub. The axle wheel is installed and removed longer than usual. Individual hollow axle bushings can be compatible with conventional forks using an adapter.

What Langtu offers

For any question. whether it is the repair of a skewed bicycle wheels or a complete re-spacing of the rim. please contact our masters who will provide you with high-quality and fast service. We have all the necessary tools, as well as a machine on which it is possible to carry out any manipulations at a professional level.

Among the most common jobs, the most popular is replacing the spokes of bicycle wheels. This service includes removing old rods, correctly and consistently installing new ones, and adjusting their correct tension. We also help to get rid of:

  • complex curvature of the rim;
  • inaccurate operation of bearings in the sleeve;
  • an old tube or tire;
  • problems with the stars.

Maintenance of bicycle wheels includes rare breakdowns of various difficulties.

The rear wheel is not spinning on the bike

Bicycles are often a hassle for their owners. Someone might think that this applies only to those who have them old, traveled hundreds of kilometers and seen a lot. However, this is not at all the case: even with new bicycles, you often have to mess around for a long time.

Those who like to ride can have a lot of problems with “iron horses”. Poorly inflated wheels, unadjusted brakes, loose chain, crooked steering wheel, and so on and so forth.

Of course, each of these difficulties requires separate attention, so today we will pay attention to only one of them. Namely, to the question of what to do if the rear wheel on the bike does not spin. And for a start, it’s worth understanding what this may even be connected with.

The wheel does not spin at all: what to do?

It often happens that a bicycle wheel cannot be moved at all. In this case, it is definitely not worth trying to move it by force. It is quite obvious that something is bothering him.

For some, a tightly stuck wheel may seem like a big problem, however, oddly enough, it will be easier to solve this problem than other difficulties with the movement of the wheel. There will be no need to adjust the bushing tapers or remove or align the discs.

The “locked” position of the wheel, as a rule, can be caused by two main reasons:

  • It doesn’t move because the brakes have clamped it;
  • The bicycle chain does not move backward or forward, blocking the movement of the wheel.

The first difficulty can be solved by adjusting the brakes, for which it is enough to check whether the brake cables are tensioned and whether they react to the movement of the brake levers. In order to eliminate the second cause, it is enough to lift the chain and put it on again, and then roll the pedal back and forth a little.

Possible causes of stalled movement

The most common situation is when the rear wheel just doesn’t move well. Not everyone is able to notice this, since some associate the difficulty in movement with the fact that they are tired, go downhill, or simply pedal not fast enough. This makes this situation the most common, because many people who like to ride simply start it.

Dealing with this kind of breakdown is not always easy. For the most part, this is because people are not wondering what it is related to. Therefore, before talking about what can be done with this, it will be useful to pay attention to the most common reasons:

  • Incorrectly configured brakes;
  • The disc pads simply rub against each other;
  • The disc is bent making it difficult to move.

In the first case, you need to pay attention to the brake machine, or rather, to the position of the disc between the pads. If it is not parallel to both of them, it can cause difficulty in movement. In order to eliminate this trouble, you need to adjust the brake machine.

If the bike was recently purchased, you should not be surprised that the pads with the disc rub against each other a little. As a rule, you can find out about this by the characteristic sound. It is absolutely not necessary to correct this situation. it is enough just to ride a little, because after a couple of trips the pads themselves will rub against the disc.

The bent disc obviously needs to be straightened. This is also not difficult. A regular adjustable wrench can be used to straighten. The main thing is to do it carefully so that you do not have to align it back several times.

What are the problems?

There can be many reasons why the rear wheel does not spin well. However, do not forget that there are enough problems with the rear wheel. Each of them has its own reasons and its own way of solving. different questions require a different approach to finding answers to them. For clarity, the main problems associated with the fact that the rear wheel does not spin well will be listed below:

  • It doesn’t move at all;
  • The rear wheel moves in a braked manner, slightly slower than the front;
  • It can be moved, but it requires a lot of effort.

As mentioned above, each of these problems requires a special approach to itself. Therefore, before proceeding with the “repair” of the bike, it is worth understanding what kind of problem you are going to fix. And in order to eliminate them easier, below each of them will be considered in more detail.

What to do if a wheel is having a hard time moving?

It also happens when the rear wheel just moves very badly. It is simply impossible to move a bicycle in such a situation, and attempts to move it from its place with the use of brute physical force can end badly. What can you do to solve this problem? Here you need to pay attention to the adjustment of the taper of the rear hub.

As a rule, this difficulty arises precisely because the cones of the bushing, for some reason, simply press down on the disc, which makes it difficult to move back and forth. It is best to unscrew a couple of bolts and remove the disc before adjusting the hub taper. Failure to do so can damage both the hub and the disc. After the operation is carried out, you need to put everything back in place and be sure to make sure that the wheel moves normally. Even the smallest difficulties can become the reason why the operation will have to be done again in the near future.

Rotates slower than front

This problem can be difficult to spot. If the rear wheel turns slower than the front wheel, it will become more difficult to drive. But the cyclist may attribute this to fatigue, poor road surface, or other factors. And only when the problem progresses to a more serious stage, it becomes easier to recognize.

The rear wheel can spin slower than the front wheel for three main reasons:

  • the wheel rim is bent;
  • brake pads rub against the disc;
  • the braking mechanism is set incorrectly.

A bent disc can make it difficult to move. This is caused by friction and touching other parts. Therefore, the way out suggests itself. to straighten the wheel rim. The main thing is not to overdo it, so that later you do not have to bend the disk in the opposite direction.

If friction sounds are heard while driving, the brake pads are rubbing against the wheel disc. This usually happens with new bikes. This problem requires no action. All shortcomings are eliminated while driving. The pads will wear out over time and stop causing trouble.

time and effort will be spent on repairs if the malfunctions are caused by problems with the braking mechanism. You will have to revise all the elements to find and eliminate the cause.

What to do if the rear wheel of a bicycle does not spin

Before proceeding with the repair, you need to determine the exact type of problem. The path of its solution will depend on this. The problem of jammed wheels can be roughly divided into the following groups:

  • turns slower than the front;
  • can only be scrolled with great effort;
  • does not spin at all.

We will consider each of the options separately. This will help you understand how to act in case of problems.

Brake repair

A common cause of a jammed rear wheel is a brake failure. Troubleshooting begins with checking the brake pads. Check their position relative to the wheel rim. Both pads must be parallel to the wheel rim.

Next, check the thickness of the brake pads themselves. They wear out over time. If their thickness is 6 mm or less, they will definitely have to be changed. Otherwise, they will constantly stick and cause movement difficulties. Install the pads at an angle of convergence. This means that the front of the pads should lightly touch the wheel when you operate the mechanism.

The next step is to check the condition of the flange (the part of the shoe protruding from the wheel side). It may touch the wheel rim after prolonged use. You can fix this problem by cutting off the unnecessary part. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the bike will not slow down. The disc should slide easily between the pads.

Check the presence of lubricants on the main components of the system. Pay special attention to the studs, which hold all the details. Both of them should be well oiled. It is best to use special bicycle lubricants for these purposes. Make sure that no lubricants come into contact with brake pads, wheel discs and other rotating parts. Otherwise, the bike simply won’t slow down at the right time.

If the above methods do not bring the expected result, check the brake cables. Friction will be much more effective if the length of the cables is correct. You can adjust their length by checking the position of the screw, which is located at the end of the cable sheath next to the lever. Apply lubricant after adjustment.

You can also clean the braid. To do this, you need to get the cable out of it. Release the clamps near the pads or lever. Then pull the cable in the opposite direction. Wash the plastic sheath with solvent to remove any accumulated dirt. WD-40 will do. Finally, return the cable back to the braid. Adjust the length. The brake pads should be 6mm from the rim. In this case, the brake lever must be released. After setting the “idle”, tighten the clamp.

The wheel turns with effort

There are situations when the rear wheel of the bicycle rotates, but this requires an effort. In such cases it is necessary to check the bushings. precisely. the settings of the cones.

To fix this problem, you will have to remove the wheel. Otherwise, both the cones and the disc could be damaged. Check the adjustment. The cones should not press down on the disc.

The wheel does not rotate

Another problem is the complete blocking of the rear wheel when it does not rotate back or forth. It is immediately clear that something is bothering him. Typically, this is one of two things: either the chain or the brakes.

First, check the brake pads. They can simply clamp the rim, preventing the wheel from spinning. Check the brake cables and their alignment. The pads should respond to pressing the lever.

Next, pay attention to the chain. Lift it up and put it back. Check the rotation of the wheel by rotating the pedals slightly to both sides.

Even a simple bike device sometimes fails. Timely prevention and respect for your two-wheeled vehicle will help to avoid serious breakdowns. Even problems such as wheel blocking can be solved by yourself. If nothing works and the breakdown is more serious than it seemed at first glance, contact the service center.