The fork is loose on the bike what to do

Cycling in winter: how?

fork, loose, bike

There is an established stereotype: there is nothing to do on a bicycle below 10 degrees. The roots of this theory go back to the Soviet era, when there were no comfortable clothes, bicycles were simple, and tires were stiff and smooth.

But time goes forward and progress does not stand still. Now many people continue to ride in late autumn and even in winter, when everything is covered with snow. over, riding in winter is not a burden for them, but rather as entertainment. So, what should you do to ride comfortably even in subzero temperatures??

Pay special attention to your legs. Boots should be impervious to water and very warm. The best option is ankle boots, high boots. If the temperature drops below.10, then do not be lazy to wear woolen socks. If your feet are well protected from moisture and cold, you will not get sick.

Pants. It is better to dress in loose pants, it is possible with insulation, but thermal underwear or leggings must be worn under them.

Wear good gloves. They should not be blown out and cover the wrists. Hands are the first thing that freezes when cycling.

A hat is required! Puffs cold air into your ears, you won’t end up in problems. Keep your ears covered.

A scarf is a must! Again, cold wind protection. No matter how warm you dress, it won’t work without a scarf. The heat will blow out from under the clothes very quickly. If it gets hot, it’s best to just unfasten a little.

Jacket. Depends on temperature. It can be either a down jacket for thermal underwear, or a regular windbreaker for a thick sweater. Experiment. But the jacket must necessarily cover the lower back.!

Sometimes, when it snows, glasses will do the trick.

Get your bike in order.

When the temperature drops below freezing, minor problems can begin with the bike. Preventing them is easy.

Cables. When you take your bike out of the heat into the cold, condensation appears in the shirts and on the cables, which freezes. Shift and brake cables. everything stops moving. To prevent this, silicone grease can be applied to the cables and jacket entries. And when leaving the house, press the brakes and switch all speeds for a minute, then the ice in the shirts will not grab and will no longer bother you.

Tires. Good grip is essential. Lower the tire pressure and the tire-to-road contact area will increase. Put on tires with softer rubber, or better buy special winter tires. In principle, one stud is enough. only for the front wheel.

Protection from dirt. The disadvantage of urban winter is reagents and sand on the roads, which very quickly wear out the chain and sprockets. To avoid wear, fit good fenders and a subframe to protect the system from sand flying from under the front wheel.

In addition, before winter, it is worth going through MOT in a bicycle workshop, where they check the condition of the bushings, carriage and system. It is in the good condition of the bike that the pleasure of riding lies at any time of the year.!

Cycling technique in winter

Probably, it is not worth explaining that in winter the roads are slippery and you need to ride your bike with great care and very attentiveness. Nevertheless, you can give several recommendations that will allow you to avoid unpleasant situations on a winter road:

On a straight section, you can work with both brakes, but first press the rear, and then more gently. the front. When descending or cornering on snow, the main brake is the rear brake, which at the same time acts as a trajectory stabilizer. Front connects carefully and dosed.

If you drive through a snowdrift or force a small snowdrift, then the snow is guaranteed to fall on the brake track of the rim and pads. Then, even with very strong pressure on the brake levers, the bike will not stop, since a water film forms between the rims and the pads, which sharply reduces the coefficient of friction. Therefore, when driving on snow, the brake pads must be regularly “burned”. press the brake levers until the start of the “seizing” moment, then, if necessary, it may be possible to stop and it will be possible to do it on time.

The track, if it is tight and well-groomed, is quite suitable for cycling, but requires very precise control and, preferably, wider tires so as not to fall through in less dense areas. It is better not to enter the wide skating tracks rolled out by snow groomers without special need. The snow there is looser and more viscous, it is much more difficult to ride on it.

The layer of snow is similar to the layer of mud, therefore, the driving technique is the same. Only you can feel much freer. It is possible and even necessary to step on the pedals using the “dancer” method for better traction “on the bottom”. The main thing is to monitor the loading of the rear wheel and not turn the front wheel at a large angle. At the same time, it is not worth completely unloading the front wheel, since it will be difficult to steer and maintain the stability of the bicycle. The wheel must be in clear contact with a hard surface under a layer of snow. To do this, you can “play” with the center of gravity, moving the body to the handlebars, then to the saddle. Keeping your suspension fork free from cold will greatly help your bike’s handling and stability. How to ride a bike in the forest in winter

Trampled and rolled paths and paths, a thin layer of loose snow is the easiest and most enjoyable case. The tires roll well and the bike is easy to drive. The grip between the tires and the snowy road is about the same as in a damp forest during the warmer months. Braking, turns, slides and descents are similar. Some caution is needed on bends when there is a small loose layer of snow or slush on the track. The tread does not have time to properly rest and will catch on a dense base and the wheel immediately skids. And studded tires or not, does not play a big role. Spikes are usually short, no more than 3-4 mm, and in this situation are ineffective.

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Cycling on ice

It has long been known that ice on the road is not a gift for a cyclist. The rules of ice riding have been developed and perfected by generations of cyclists:

1 Snow in winter is much more pleasant than rain in summer.
2 Glasses, nails, thorns and cans hide under the snow in winter without piercing the wheels. The logs are covered with snow and turn into cute bumps, and not into difficult obstacles, especially if you are just learning to jump over them.
3 On soft snow, rubber wears out less than on hard asphalt.
4 Frost in winter is much easier to bear than heat in summer. It is easier to deal with it by increasing the pace of the ride. In the summer, intense muscle work only exacerbates the situation.
5 Less thirsty in winter.
6 In winter, it gets dark faster and pedestrians try to go home, freeing the paths for the biker.
7 Winter skiing improves cycling technique.

Bicycle Accidents: What to Do?

Afflictions ending in injuries, broken equipment, hospital and court.

Sometimes you are more lucky, sometimes less. Sometimes no luck at all.

On April 5, 2017, I was involved in an accident at Cannondale Synapse. I was run over by a concrete mixer “Kovalskoy”, with not the most attentive driver at the wheel. As a result, the damage amounted to 10,000 hryvnia (broken fork, wheel, hub, wrapped winding, scratches on the frame and a broken chin). As it turned out, the driver was not taught how to use the turn signals, how to look around.

If suddenly it so happened that you got into an accident on a bicycle, first of all. do not panic. Adrenaline in the blood will go off scale, possibly a state of shock. Breathe.

Directly at the scene of the accident, follow this algorithm:

  • Check your limbs, wiggle your legs, fingers, check your face, in general. the presence of injuries. If nothing hurts you, this does not mean that nothing is broken (the release of adrenaline into the blood contributes to shock and inadequate perception).
  • If you are unable to move, do not allow yourself to be moved, dragged, moved, or planted. It can be worse than just waiting for an ambulance. Internal trauma is not so obvious, you can do much more harm than meets the eye. An exception is a burning car nearby. All.
  • If you can still get up, nothing hurts and there are no visible injuries, make sure that the other side of the accident stays at the scene and does not try to hide. Wait for the driver to turn off the engine and get out of the car, and also does not show aggression and does not try to harm you.
  • Call the police crew by dialing 102. Indicate the location and address of the accident, the number of victims, the types of vehicles.
  • Call MOTOHELP. they will make sure that the protocols are filled out correctly, help you evacuate your bike from the scene of the accident, and advise on controversial legal issues. Save the number in the phone book: 097-900-99-90
  • If you have visible bruises, injuries, a headache, or bleeding from any place, be sure to call an ambulance. Ambulance number: 103.
  • If it is impossible to move independently, be sure to recruit someone from your close and trusted people.
  • Ask the driver to get out the warning triangle and mark the location of the accident 20 meters behind the point of collision.
  • Never touch the frame / wheel / forks / parts of the bike, and ask the driver not to move the car.
  • Take pictures of the scene. The more photos you have, the better. This will be an excellent proof at the insurance company, and will also make it easier to apply.
  • Expect the crews to arrive. Do not argue with the driver or cover him with obscenities. Don’t repeat my mistakes
  • Pay attention to the presence of road accident witnesses. Take their contacts, ask to wait for the Police crew.
  • Don’t refuse medical attention. Be sure to take certificates from the ambulance and doctors about your health and the assistance provided.
  • Make sure that the Police crew correctly completes the protocol:
  • Driver’s name and surname
  • Vehicle number
  • Insurance policy number and insurance name
  • The fact that the accident scheme reflects the real state of affairs
  • Type of incident (hitting a cyclist)

Fixing a loose bicycle fork crown race

12) Be sure to photograph the protocol from all sides, write down the number of the registering crew.

13) After completing all the procedures, take the bike from the scene.

If possible. immediately bring it to the workshop, where you regularly service, or are serviced under warranty. Also, relatives or friends can do it for you.

For owners of Cannondale, Apollo, Pride, Electra and Schwinn, Veloplaneta will be your official service station.

Owners of brands purchased outside of Ukraine (as well as in the network) should contact the workshop on Beresteyskaya, they can provide a similar certificate of damage.

Owners of officially purchased bicycles should contact their dealer center: Specialized. Extrem Style, Scott. Scott Ukraine and so on.

It is important to remember: in order to issue an insured event, you need to contact the driver’s insurance company within TWO days from the moment of the accident (and your own, if you took out health / life / accident insurance).

What needs to be prepared for the insurance company (a copy will be made of all documents):

After submitting the application, be sure to ask when the damage assessor will contact you, since none of the insurance companies can calculate the bike according to the standard procedure.

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If the appraiser does not call you the next day, contact your insurance company with a reminder. This greatly speeds up the process.

After assessing the damage, you can add an assessment from the service station to the documents.

Help can be in the form of an invoice with the calculation of components and the cost of work, or the format of property valuation, taking into account depreciation and market price.

A maximum of 90 days may pass from the moment of filing an application to payment of compensation in accordance with the Law of Ukraine “On Insurance”. It takes an average of 3 weeks to bring your case to court. Be sure to find out the case number, the court in which the hearing is taking place, the name and surname of the judge. The status of the case can be monitored on the website:

On average, after 4-5 weeks, after assessing the damage and calculating payments (depending on the terms of the agreement with the perpetrator of the accident), the insurance company will send you a decree on the amount of insurance payment.

If you agree with everything, sign. If not, provide additional receipts or justifications why this amount is not sufficient to cover the damage.

Payment can only be made after receiving the insurance court order.

Make sure the trial takes place. Unfortunately, it often happens that the court session is scheduled, but it is not held, or it is postponed for personal reasons of one of the parties. It is also possible a scenario when the judge decides to go on vacation, or to postpone the case due to lack of or controversial data. Sometimes the perpetrators can go for a trick and write a statement about the transfer of the case and not appear at it, and then repeat the procedure. However, if this is not a criminal case and there are no pitfalls, the decision is made without the presence of any of the parties.

Before transferring the court decision to the insurance company, check that your personal data is correctly indicated in the document, and that there is also a line “hitting a cyclist” and, preferably, a frame number. It is she who gives the insurance basis for the payment.

You can always ask the judge for the materials of the case if something confuses you.

My case with getting under the Concrete Mixer Kovalskaya on April 5 on Lybidska, as well as hitting Igor Shako in June (when a passenger car caught up with him from behind on the Embankment), continue.

In both cases, the courts were postponed for unknown reasons.

A new hearing in my case is scheduled for 2.08 in the Pechersk Court.

Igor’s case was postponed to the end of June, in the same court, but at the branch on Arsenalnaya.

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Why you need to remove a bicycle fork

Obviously, there is no need to simply dismantle it from the bike. There are a number of reasons for this. replacement, overhaul and service. Replacement means removing an unusable part and installing a new one instead.

Repair. partial replacement of components. These can be bearings, washers, spring, damper or oil seal. Service includes adjustment, cleaning, lubrication.

The main symptoms that indicate removing the fork from the bike and putting it in order:

  • knocking on the move;
  • the fork is stuck and not adjustable;
  • bearing wear;
  • lack of lubrication (creaks);
  • cranking, heavy steering;
  • cracked legs and pants.

The device of the classic front shock absorption system is a metal spring and a rubber damper. Shrinkage of the spring and elongation of the elastomer rod degrade the properties of the shock absorber, making it stiffer. Regardless of the setting, the fork will knock on obstacles.

Backlash and tight handlebar travel indicate worn bearings and o-rings, as well as a dirty fork cavity. A suspicious creak when the bike is moving indicates that it is necessary to lubricate the part, and you cannot do without removing it.

Tech Tuesday #10: Troubleshooting the Headset

Any mechanical damage leads to unexpected breakdown of the system. If cracks are found on the body and legs, the fork should be immediately replaced with a new one.!

In disassembling the shock absorber with your own hands, you will need tools:

  • screwdriwer set;
  • flat sharp object;
  • sliding wrenches;
  • hexagon;
  • small hammer.

When working, it will be necessary to clean and lubricate the part again, so you will need a can of grease, a few soft rags and gloves.

  • check the bike fork for integrity every 500. 1000 km;
  • clean the feet on the oil seals every 150. 200 km of the track;
  • apply a little grease to the stuffing box of the legs several times a season;
  • specially for hydraulic shock absorbers. change the oil every 5000 km.

How to put the fork back on the bike

First, inspect the bearing ring. There should be no damage or broken edges on it. Otherwise, you will need to replace it (if an old plug is installed). Assembly sequence:

Put the ring on the joint of the fork with the steering column.

Cover it with an adjustable wrench from above.

Using a hammer, press in the ring evenly with soft blows on the jaws of the key. We hammer “by sound”: while he is deaf, we continue to press, sonorous. the ring has fallen into place.

Lubricate the surface of the stopper (grease. lithol-24, buksol or special composition).

Place the bearing carefully with the balls facing up. You can also apply a little lubricant to it. A sealing washer must be placed under the bearing.

Carefully insert the stem into the glass and repeat all removal operations in the reverse order.

Dismantling the front fork for parts

You don’t need to disassemble the part to replace it, but its repair will require you to “fit” into the mechanism and thoroughly dig into it. Let’s consider how to sort out a spring-elastomer type suspension fork:

  • Unscrew the bottom fasteners with a hex wrench.
  • Remove the spring compression adjustment bolt. Preload. It is the main damper travel regulator.
  • Remove the elastomer restrictor or damper.
  • Take off the “pants”.
  • Using a screwdriver, remove the seals from the pants.
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The main reasons why the fork squeaks, makes knocks and does not smooth out vibrations while the bike is moving include wear of parts, water and dirt ingress, lack of internal lubrication. We put in order:

  • Remove all dirt from the inside of the pants.
  • Thoroughly wipe the fork legs, spring and seals.
  • Replace the defective part if necessary.
  • Install the elastomer damper (fill oil through the nipple for the hydraulic fork).
  • Lubricate the inner cavity. inject oil from a can.
  • Install Mounting Bolt and Preload.

It looks like a do-it-yourself bicycle fork bulkhead. Is it needed for a new part? There is an opinion that a plug that has been sorted out at once will be better tuned and will last longer. Much depends on the quality of the kit, but it will be found out in real riding conditions.

Scheduled repairs are done as needed, bulkhead once a season. And of course, you shouldn’t forget about prevention. After each ride, remove dirt from the surface of the oil seals, lubricate, check the fasteners and integrity.

Saddle and seat post creak

This sound also makes you nervous, since most often you sin on the carriage assembly when it appears. You need to determine what exactly squeaks and clicks: a saddle or a seat. Pull out the bolt securing the saddle from below, coat with thread lock and screw tight. Do not overdo it, however. I saw this bolt burst on people on a hike due to overtightening.

If the sound remains, then the seatpost is the problem. You need to pull it out, and clean the pipe well. a lot of sand accumulates there. Clean the seat itself. It needs to be lubricated with a special grease, but I don’t remember what it is called, tell me in the comments, who knows

Don’t forget the seat clamp. it should also be clean and well tightened.

Fork routine inspection

Often, it is the prophylactic inspection of the fork that makes it possible to timely identify minor deviations from the norm in the operation of the device, and, accordingly, prevent a more serious breakdown. Typically, a visual inspection of the fork includes checking:

  • dropout states;
  • fork legs for dents, scuffs and other marks;
  • oil seals (anthers) for mechanical damage and oil leaks from under them;
  • pressure in air chambers;
  • the presence and condition of the lateral backlash of the legs in the “pants”;
  • the condition of the fastening bolts under the “pants” of the fork and adjustment knobs.

Squeaking brakes

I’ll start with a slightly irrelevant, but very unpleasant point. the squeaky bike brakes. This is a problem that plagues many Catalans, and some even consider it normal. Consider vibrake for a start.

Here, squeaking is generated by three factors: brake pad material, rim condition and pad supply. With the first, everything is simple. you need to experiment with the pads. The softer the rubber, the quieter they brake, but wear out faster.

The condition of the rim is the degree to which it is worn and dirty. By the way, by the way. the rim under the vibrake can wear out to such an extent that it bursts around the circumference. I saw it with my own eyes. Do not lead to sin.

You can clean the rim by all available methods. gasoline, thinner, white spirit. the main thing is to clean the rubber bitumen from the pads rubbed into the metal. If all else fails, use a medium grit sandpaper.

The pads must fit very accurately to the rim, at a certain angle. Take a look at the picture below, everything will become clear.

Disc brakes are easier. Here, almost everything depends on the material of the pads. Metallized material is harder, it overheats more slowly. it is used where powerful braking is required, for example in the mountains. May squeak, especially in the rain.

The organic material is soft, silent, with excellent modulation. It would be ideal if not for heavy wear and tear due to heavy use. It is also bad that it overheats quickly, up to strong smoke.

The rotors can also be cleaned with solvent and sandpaper. In theory, if you pick up good pads, then the brakes will not squeak in any conditions. At least I have no squeak on any bike, whether it be discs or vibrating racks.

What to do if your bike squeaks

Any bike needs maintenance. If the bike squeaks, it means that you completely forgot about repairing the bike. But moral reading is not our goal at all. We need to figure out what to do if the bike squeaks and how to figure out what exactly squeaks in the bike.

I will say right away that this article is focused more on beginners than on those who like to constantly pedal. Therefore, we will use simplified formulations and keep the style of the article simplified. Although, jokes are jokes, and at one time I spent a lot of time to figure out why my bike squeaks. It turned out that the reason was trivial. But everything is in order.