Shimano equipment level classification. Shimano Mountain Bike Equipment
- Shimano Tourney. This type of equipment is designed for entry-level bicycles, suitable for urban riding on asphalt, not suitable for intensive riding on rough terrain. One of the first types of Shimano equipment, usually 18-21 speeds.
- Shimano Altus is also an entry-level piece of equipment. On bicycles with this equipment, you can ride around the city and small off-road. Has 21-24 speed.
- Shimano Acera. this type of equipment is positioned as an entry to mid-level. Suitable for city driving and small off-road, but off-road you can already feel more confident. Usually on bicycles with such equipment 24-27 speeds.
- Shimano Alivio is a mid-range equipment, it is of good enough quality and a fairly low price. Some of the components are almost identical to Deore equipment in terms of characteristics, but they are cheaper. Bicycles with this equipment are suitable for city and off-road riding, usually 24-27 speeds.
- Shimano Deore. good mid-range equipment. This equipment is suitable for cyclists who ride a lot but do not practice cycling professionally. Unlike equipment of a higher level, it has more weight. Suitable for city and off-road riding. Usually bikes with this type have 24-27 speeds.
- SLX is a type of high level equipment. Designed for riding on rough and mountainous terrain, where the main thing is not speed, but quality. The main criteria for this equipment are: quality of work, acceptable weight and reliability. Bicycles with this type have 27 speeds.
- Shimano Deore XT. equipment of a professional level, respectively, it has a high price. This type of equipment is light in weight and size, and was developed using modern Shimano technology. Bicycles with this equipment have 27 speeds and can be used in a variety of competitions, such as cross-country or marathons on mountain trails.
- Shimano Saint. is also a professional type of equipment. Built for extreme loads: Down Hill, freeride. Components of this level are more expensive, but also more robust and reliable.
- Shimano XTR. the highest and most expensive level of equipment installed on mountain bikes. Designed for professional athletes to maximize performance. These components have minimum weight and maximum performance.
Shimano Touring Bike Equipment
- Shimano Deore. is similar to equipment for mountain bikes, but different in purpose. For example, there are series for rim brakes.
- Shimano Deore LX. equipment of this type is characterized by good weight and pleasant design. This level is the hallmark of the tourist line and has the necessary reliability.
- Shimano Deore XT. is also analogous to mountain bike equipment. Again, the difference is in the purpose, for example the use of contact pedals and rim brakes.
Shimano equipment for city and hybrid bikes
Modern hybrid bikes can be equipped with Shimano mountain equipment.
- Shimano Nexave. developed specifically for tourism, belongs to the average level. Very durable, reliable and easy-to-use equipment.
- Shimano Capreo. equipment designed for folding, compact bicycles. Medium level, provides a comfortable ride.
- Shimano Nexus. equipment for a comfortable ride. Planetary hubs with internal brakes, cranks, shifters and other equipment designed to make cycling easier.
- Shimano Alfine. more advanced equipment level “comfort”, for city skiing. Internally shifted planetary hubs, bike motors, hydraulic disc brakes, chain tensioners.
Various types of bicycle mudguards and tips for choosing them
Despite the importance of an accessory such as bicycle wings, their use is controversial among cyclists. On the one hand, fans of radical bike relief refuse to just ride in the rain or neglect the cleanliness of their own back. On the other hand, numerous retirees and janitors, moving on road “Auchan-bikes”, always leave their regular fenders and ride with a clear conscience in the drizzling rain.
In the event that you do not exclude that you will ride in the mud, it is better to remember some physical laws. They state that:
if you have a short front bicycle fender, then this is not an obstacle for dirt to fly out in all directions, including into the cyclist.
In the case of a short bike fender at the rear, the dirt from the wheel will fly upward. Since it now moves at the speed of a bicycle, it soars up and dives down along the trajectory of a parabola at the cyclist, on his back and head. If the cyclist is traveling fast, this mud can reach the hands and face of the cyclist, and he is surrounded on all sides by a mud shower, of which he is the author. This can be spectacular:
We suggest clarifying the issue of bicycle fenders. In this matter, the practicality and expediency of installing the wings can be understood in exactly the opposite way.
Pros and cons
So, here are the main arguments for and against using cycling wings, put together in pairs to exacerbate the problem:
It is incomplete protection against dirt and moisture. If there is no rain, then it is not difficult to go around the puddle or take a drier path. Otherwise, you can drive slowly through the puddle. If it’s raining, you will still come wet as a mouse.
But the downpour rarely happens, more often the rain still “drips”, and the form dries out more often during movement. Without a rear wing, there is a high probability of soaking both cycling shorts with all pads and diapers, and ordinary jeans or underpants. You can thoroughly rub your wet crotch, and catch a cold, get, in extreme cases, cystitis, pyelonephritis or prostatitis.
Aesthetics: The best fenders are known to be absent from nature, and on a cool sports bike, fenders look much worse than aggressive disc brakes.
Yes, but there are types of bicycles, looking at which one feels the comfort and convenience of a trip just for business, for example, on a touring, the wings look quite organically, or the wings add brutal “Endurora charm”.
It is worth looking at the pictures.
If everything is clear with the bike in the first photo, then the second shows the Dutch Spyker Aeroblade bike. Limited to 50 cars, titanium frame, aluminum front fork, leather saddle, etc. Each bike costs 10,500 euros. And the wing on it is also an element of beauty. Is it possible to say looking at him that the wings on a bicycle are an ugly thing?
On a road bike, the wings look quite organic.
The problem of cycling “excess weight”. This point can only be critical for frantic calculators of won seconds, in return for donated grams of weight. But in the modern world, all but the cheapest metal shields are remarkably lightweight. and for 95% of cyclists, talking about “making the wings heavier” is nothing more than hidden bravado involved in the world of high achievement.
Bicycle mudguard significantly reduces aerodynamics.
But in races where tenths of a second are important, there are no fenders anyway. For lovers of cross-country and normal, friendly rides, it’s a sin to complain about air resistance due to the wings.
So, fenders are a decent bike accessory.
But not all bikes fit the same wings. Different types of bikes fit different fenders.
Fenders for road bikes and city bikes
Such wings are also called full-size, or classic, as they cover the largest part of the arc.
The fixation of these shields is made on the bolt holes near the axles in the frame (dropouts), also on the fork at the top and on the frame stays from the top at the back. They are always available on road bikes.
Maybe these wings are not the most beautiful, but they are unsurpassed protectors from dirt.
What should be the shields for a mountain bike
Naturally, the above type of fenders are not suitable for mountain bikes, not just because they have an unsportsmanlike look, but because the mountain bike’s powerful tread “sucks” the mud and clogs it between the wheel and the flap.
A good option could be, for example, the SKS Shockblade kit.
These are not full-sized, but mid-sized wings. Their plus is that they are easy to remove, protect well from dirt.
In addition, we can recommend a flap that covers the down tube on the frame in case of powerful splashes from the front wheel, for example, SKSMud-x (shown in the picture) or X-board.
In addition, the guard protects the carriage assembly and the front derailleur.
If you decide to do only with the rear wing, then you can tie a simple piece of elastic rubber instead of the front one to prevent splashes that are carried by the front wheel forward in the direction of travel, throwing up and then onto the cyclist.
Road bike mudguard
This is where lightness and aerodynamics are important, so “aerodynamic options” are quite appropriate, for example, such as those on the car shown below, namely the Crud RoadRacer Mk2.
These plastic fenders are very lightweight, resist the pressure of dirt well and are almost invisible. Their cost is about 30 euros.
Finally, a few words about whether it is possible to make homemade bicycle wings with your own hands.
Yes, there are many options. There are plastic tools at hand.
There are even metal made in an extremely time consuming way. Tin strips are cut out, and then straightened with a hammer on special forms, their production can do honor to any bike lover. for painstaking and investing their own efforts.
Road bike setup. Important points for setting up your bike
Daily cycling trips give a lot of positive emotions, keep all muscles in good shape, and have a beneficial effect on the work of all body systems. Traveling on a bike means speed and convenience, because you don’t need to get stuck in a traffic jam, and the route will be much straighter than for a car. over, cycling trips will be much cheaper than public transport and, moreover, a personal car.
All of the above advantages are manifested in all their glory if a two-wheeled servant provides 100% comfort and safety to its owner, that is, it is well regulated in all respects. You can ask a specialist for help in setting up, but it is not free, and the master himself may be busy or absent. An easier and more efficient option is to set up the bike yourself. It will not take much time, no difficulties will arise, and invaluable experience will be gained.
Adjustments include settings for the saddle, handlebar, suspension fork and handbrake positions. We will learn more about how to consistently bring your two-wheeled transport to the desired form.
Road and Road Bike Settings
A common method for determining the optimal saddle height is “standing leg position”. We determine by the algorithm:
- One pedal is moved to the upper position, the other. to the extreme lower.
- Get on the ground, frame between your legs.
- The leg that touches the lower pedal should be almost straight.
If it is too bent or barely touches the pedal, the saddle height increases or decreases, respectively. Why is it necessary to ensure the correct position of the feet when pedaling? First of all, the fatigue of the muscles and the knee joint will decrease, which will allow you to cover distances without interruption. The torque efficiency will also be higher due to the greater “leverage” of force. True, you should not bring your leg to perfectly straightened, otherwise it will be difficult to pedal.
In the case of road bikes, the braking performance of the rear pedals will also decrease. The range of heights should vary between the “min” and “max” marks. A seatpost that is pulled past the safety mark can be tricky when traveling!
The optimum saddle position is parallel to the ground. If desired, the cyclist can tilt it forward towards the frame or backward, if the bike model allows it. It is worth noting that for road and road bikes it is better to keep a straight position.
The handlebar height adjustment is calculated relative to the installed saddle. For a city bike, it should be level with the saddle. This does not mean that it cannot be installed higher or lower, but first you should ride with such a height, and only then, if necessary, adjust it for yourself. The arms must be bent, but not strongly, otherwise it will be inconvenient to control the bike.
A different setting requires a high-speed road bike, where a strictly specified fit is needed. The body of the cyclist on the road bike deflects approximately 90 degrees relative to the legs. This means that the handlebars must be below the saddle, averaging a few inches.
The amount of removal is of great importance. Too much removal of the steering wheel from the front tube of the frame will make you literally cling to the handles, which will cause the whole body to involuntarily strain. In addition, visibility will deteriorate, since the head will be directed more towards the floor than forward.
A short stem is also bad: straightening the body or bending the spine. As a result, unreasonably high loads, fatigue, low riding efficiency. The size of the steering stem on adjustable structures is selected exclusively on an individual basis, especially on sports bicycles for competitions! If the stem is stationary and not suitable for optimal fit, it should be replaced.
How to customize MTB for yourself
Adjusting a mountain bike differs from adjusting a road bike or city bike due to its specific fit. On the slope of the body, it occupies something in between. within 45 degrees relative to the frame and legs. A properly tuned saddle and handlebar will allow not only not to get tired when pedaling, but also to withstand prolonged vibrations from off-road driving.
Saddle height and angle adjustment. The height is selected according to the same principle as on “asphalt” bikes. The slight difference is that, in addition to the straight leg, the forefoot should reach the ground well without tilting the frame further. If the leg in the lower position is almost straight, and the feet fully reach the floor, then it is necessary to increase the height by 1. 1.5 cm.
Since the body of a cyclist on MTB has a medium slope, the stem should be selected accordingly. On adjustable models, the length is chosen so that when you move your hands do not take on all the vibration. Otherwise, quick fatigue will ensue, impairing ride quality and handling. How do you achieve the optimal rudder position: height and distance from the frame? Yes, each cyclist will need an individual fit, but there are universal recommendations:
- arms half bent at the elbows;
- the entire length of the handles is accessible to the palms;
- the body is relaxed, the shoulders are not tucked up.
When riding mountain bikes, the angle of the saddle is important, as well as the horizontal position. We approach this aspect more carefully: no more than 3. 5 degrees in one direction or another. Excessive leaning back will cause fatigue of the abdominal muscles and hips, and forward. an unstable position of the pelvis and, as a result, additional fatigue. Visually, the angle should be barely noticeable. Why tilt the saddle from a parallel position at all?
Due to small changes in angle, a more accurate fit is achieved, especially if the stem cannot change in length. Also, the tilt of the saddle provides for the anatomical features of a particular person. The seat slides with a special bolt located under it. It is not worth spinning too much, but after setting the desired position, you need to tighten it tightly. Additional saddle adjustment. horizontal movement. The most comfortable position will be when the center of the knees of the seated cyclist is on a vertical line with the pedal axes.
Setting up a MTB type bike includes adjusting the stiffness and stroke length of the suspension fork. The stiffer the structure, the less shocks it will soften when driving. There are several ways to adjust the plug:
- Preload: tension or release of the spring, one-time change in stiffness;
- Rebound: setting the degree of vibration damping when changing the type of road surface;
- Extension control: allows you to change the stroke of the shock absorber, thereby selecting the optimal conditions for the road. The function also allows you to block the fork if the bike passes from mountain trails to flat asphalt. This includes an additional function. blocking in a clearly defined position.
A properly “honed” shock absorber means not only the absence of discomfort from potholes and stones, but also the preservation of the geometry of the bike and extends its service life.
V-brake and disc brake adjustment
Setting up the brakes with your own hands takes a couple of minutes, but it will help you avoid troubles in the future. Precisely adjusted braking system will give the shortest possible stopping distance and will not allow the pads to wear out prematurely.
A properly debugged V-brake is:
- firmly fixed body on the fork (or bolt for “pliers”);
- cable tension;
- the distance of the pads from the rim is 2.5. 3 mm;
- Instant actuation and rebound of the pads from the rim when the handle is released;
- the surface of the cartridge pads must fully adhere to the rim.
A common problem with poor V-brake performance is under-tensioned cable and improperly positioned pads. On a caliper brake, they may be unevenly pressed against the wheel rim. Problem solving:
- We release the cable, then pull it a little further with force. A few treatments will be enough to restore normal tension. You don’t need to overdo it: either the mechanism will be damaged, or the cable will be pulled over, and the brakes will not work at all.
- Align the brake pads parallel to the wheel rim. Sometimes the problem lies not in the brake at all, but in the G8. The defect is not pleasant, but you can quickly fix it yourself.
- The centering of the caliper brake is achieved by maximum fastening to the bolt and a uniform release position. Place it strictly in the center so that the force of the handle and cable is equally distributed between the pads.
Disc brake adjustment consists in pulling the cable and setting the distance between the shoe and the disc surface. The free clearances here are up to 0.4 mm, much less than on the V-brake. Because of this, braking and increased wear often occur.
The shoe position is adjusted using the adjusting screw on the body. It is almost impossible to determine the optimal eye distance, so we run the bike and check the brakes in different handle positions after each adjustment.
The settings of all the described parameters are simply necessary so that trips bring only joy and do not cause inconvenience, and the bike itself requires maintenance as rarely as possible.
Adjusting road brakes
This article will discuss double pivot caliper arm adjustments, pad to rim adjustments, pad clearance and pad centering.
Dual swivel caliper brakes are used on many modern road bikes. It is a combination of center and side brakes. One caliper arm pivots from the center of the wheel, the other arm pivots directly over the center of the wheel.
In this article, we’ll cover:
- Caliper installation
- Installing the cable
- Shoe adjustment
- Regulation of clearances in pads
Install the caliper
The calipers are attached to the frame or fork with a hex and nut. Hold the brake in the center of the rim and tighten the nut to manufacturer’s specifications, typically 6–7 Nm. Keep the calipers close to center on the rim, as this will help to fit the pad correctly later.
Install the cable
It is helpful to use the brake cable to keep the pads close to the rim. This makes it easier to set up.
Pass the cable through the strain relief and clamping mechanism. Release the tension adjuster two to three turns so that subsequent adjustments can be made. Make sure that the brake pad is in the closed position. Press the pads against the rim and tighten the hold-down bolt according to the manufacturer’s specifications, typically 5 Nm.
Adjusting the shoes to the rim
For double pivot brakes, the location of each lever pivot is different and the pads move in different arcs as they approach the rim. The left side lever (viewed from the front of the brake) acts as a side lever. The shoe drops down as it travels towards the rim. The right side acts as the center of thrust. The right pad will move upward as it approaches the rim.
Due to these different pad arcs, fit the right pad lower on the braking surface of the rim and the left pad higher on the braking surface.
Most rotary brakes use a concave and convex pad system. This system allows you to adjust how the pad surface hits the rim.
Adjust the front and rear edge of the shoe evenly.
Another method is to create stock at the back edge of the last with a rubber band. This method only works if the spacer washers use a convex-concave system. Squeeze the lever slightly and loosen the shoe screw. The pad will self-align with the rim from pressure. Fasten the shoe, remove the rubber strip and check.
Install washers that allow toe control. If there are no such washers, install the pads so that there is a small gap at the back.
Setting the clearance in the pads
Squeeze the lever firmly so that the shirt fits correctly and check the cable clamping bolt for tightness. Use the tension adjuster to adjust the shoe clearance.
Pads that are too tight will make centering difficult and are more likely to rub as you ride. In this case, the tension regulator, by relaxing the cable to move the pads away from the rim.
If the cable is too loose, the handle will almost touch the handlebars, resulting in poor braking performance. Turn the tension adjuster counterclockwise, pulling the cable out and bringing the pads closer to the rim.
Usually the front and rear brakes are set the same.
View the pad at the center of the rim. Twin rotary brakes usually have a centering screw. Turning the screw clockwise pulls both pads towards the screw side of the brake. By loosening the screw, you move both brakes to the side opposite to the screw.
Some models with double hinges do not have a centering screw. In these cases, slide the brake retaining nut and brake body at the same time. Use a centering brake wrench if the brake has a centering plane.
Cut the cable and put on the termination. Finish the setup process by cutting the cable and installing the plug.
So, as we can see, the process of setting up road brakes is not that difficult, but it has some nuances. We hope that now it will be an easy task for you. If you have your own methods of installing and adjusting the brakes, we would love to read them in the comments.
Landing on a road bike
We have already posted a video on the correct riding position on a road bike. It tells everything well, but in English and for a long time. But clearly. Now I got another good piece on the classic road bike fit. Unfortunately, the original source could not be found, taken from the forum. Of course, this instruction is not a dogma to be followed thoughtlessly, but just useful information. Optimal fit for everyone.
Road bike landing pattern
A. Arms. Torso. Hands rest on the shifters, and fingers can easily switch (pull or drop). It is in this position that the angle between the arms and the body should be about 90 degrees.
B. Steering wheel. Take a seat and put your hands on the shifters. If you look down and see the front hub, it won’t be very good. Correct fit is when you look down and see the front hub at about the middle or 3/4 of the stem as shown in the picture.
Bad news: If you cannot achieve this result on the 80-120 stem, then the frame you purchased is either too large or too small, and this is no joke.
C. Rudder width. The handlebars should be about the same width as your shoulders. However, this also has its pros and cons, what to give preference to depends only on you. The wider the handlebars, the deeper and more stable breathing (used to be popular, a little old-fashioned now). The narrower the handlebars, the better the aerodynamics (it is more popular now and you can see men with huge shoulders rolling on 42 handlebars.)
D. Position of the shifters. The shifters or switches, as you are accustomed, should be flush with the steering wheel, thus forming a flat “platform” for the hands. If it is convenient for you to “fill” them down a little, this is also quite normal, the main thing is that it is convenient. However, it is not recommended to strongly “bully” or “fill up”, as this can lead to rapid fatigue and discomfort.
E. Knees over pedals. Snap into the pedals and place the cranks parallel to the road surface. If you take and throw a plumb line from the place “just below the kneecap”, then it should divide the pedal axis in half. This can be achieved by moving the seat forward or backward.
Note: if you cannot achieve more than 90 rpm, you should move the seat back 1 cm. In the event that it is 90, then try to move it forward 1 cm. There are already personal “adjustments”.
F. Seat height. The knee angle should be between 25 and 35 degrees in relation to the pedal at the farthest point from the saddle.
G. Seat angle. Saddle neutral. horizontal, no tilt. If you feel numbness in your perineum while cycling, you should try tilting the seat down a few degrees. If you constantly support yourself and push off the steering wheel, in this case, your hands can be unloaded by “tipping” the siduha back a few degrees (you shouldn’t overdo it).
H. Position of the pelvis. Avoid unnecessary bends in the lumbosacral spine to avoid unnecessary stress on the intervertebral discs. Correct fit is a fit that allows you to breathe freely.
I. Stem. saddle height. The height difference is adjusted for each messenger individually, however there are some recommendations. For everyday and comfortable driving. the height difference should be from 0 to 4 cm.For higher speed characteristics. from 5 to 9 cm.
J. Knees. Elbows. The gap between the elbows and thighs should be about one centimeter at the point of their maximum contact.
This road bike seating pattern is not a benchmark. Everyone can take something new and important for themselves.
Customizing the bike for yourself
The lack of tuning of the bike causes pain in the knees, back and neck. Therefore, many drivers cannot be behind the wheel for a long time.
Sometimes muscle and joint pain is caused by a lack of proper physical fitness. But more often than not, the key to solving the problem lies in the calibration of the bike.
In this article we will look at how to customize the bike for yourself.
The first thing to set up before getting on the bike is the saddle. It is necessary to regulate:
- Departure in the horizontal plane.
over, depending on the person, type of bike and riding habits, these indicators will differ.
A general rule of thumb for any type of bike when adjusting the saddle height is to keep the leg almost straight when the pedal is down.
Bend at the knee should be minimal, but do not allow the leg to be fully extended.
With this in mind, remember that the forefoot should be on the pedal, not the center or heel.
We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the pedaling technique.
When adjusting the height, remember that the body should not wobble when pedaling.
If you have to waddle from side to side to rotate the pedal, lower the saddle 1-2 cm.
Another criterion is the position of the foot on the ground. With an optimal saddle height, you don’t have to roll over the bike unnecessarily to get one foot out of the way. If all three of the above factors apply to your bike, you have adjusted the saddle height.
This position allows the cyclist to spend less effort while riding and gain speed faster.
If your knees are slightly bent at the bottom of the pedals, it will prevent joint pain and ensure a comfortable and long ride.
If the saddle height is universal on all types of bicycles, then its position may differ.
Let’s discuss the tilt angle first. For normal riding, it is best to use the horizontal saddle position.
This is especially true for men, because physiologically, the seat tilt can block blood circulation and pinch important organs.
When it comes to seat types, there are special saddles for men with a notch in the center. They are usually narrower than the female variants. Therefore, consider this factor when choosing a bike.
Better to get a comfortable seat separate from the iron horse.
If you are going uphill, it is better to tilt the seat with the front part down. This will provide a more comfortable climb and reduce energy loss. When performing tricks, the saddle must be tilted back.
Many modern seats have rails in the design, with the help of which the saddle can be moved horizontally.
Before determining the optimal outreach, it is necessary to understand the peculiarities of the rider’s landing on different types of bike.
On mountain bikes, the body of the rider should be tilted 45 degrees, and on road units the rider “lays down” the body almost 90 degrees.
It is important to consider this when adjusting the seat reach. A combination of handlebar and seat adjustment provides the driver with a comfortable seating position, so don’t be content with just adjusting the saddle.
It is important to remember that if the seat is too far back, the weight will shift towards the rear wheel.
This shift in the center of gravity relieves the front shock and can create the potential for an accident or overturn.
And too close a position will cause inconvenience when pedaling. In addition, in both cases, you will experience discomfort in the shoulders, neck and back.
Therefore, adjust the reach wisely based on your height, shape and riding habits.
Experiment! Set the saddle position and make several trips. If you feel uncomfortable, keep changing the settings.
As mentioned above, by combining handlebar and saddle settings, we achieve an optimal fit for the rider. And depending on the type of bike, it can be different.
The comfort and efficiency of the shock absorbers depend on the height of the handlebars. If the handlebars are too high, the rider will sit almost upright.
This will shift the center of gravity towards the saddle and relieve stress on the handlebars, which will reduce the effectiveness of the front shock. Although for beginners it is better to raise the steering wheel slightly above the seat level.
On city bikes, the handlebars are flush with the saddle, while on road bikes the handlebars are lower. This is due to the position of the rider’s torso when riding.
Almost 90-degree tilt for low air resistance and high speed is achieved through the right combination of handlebar and saddle level.
A general rule of thumb for mountain bikes is that the rider’s arms are bent at the elbows about 45 degrees.
This will ensure efficient shock absorbers and reduce hand vibration discomfort.
Experienced cyclists use the following rule of thumb to properly tune the stem on a mountain bike:
- Rest your elbow on the edge of the front of the saddle;
- Extend your hand with straight fingers towards the steering wheel;
- Position the handlebars with your fingertips in the middle of the stem.
Otherwise, adjust the handlebar and saddle for yourself in such a way that it is you who, with your build and height, are comfortable riding a bike.
Remember the rules that apply to different types of bikes and proper weight distribution.
An important point when adjusting the steering wheel is the position of the grips and brake levers. On long journeys, some drivers rub their thumb on the shifters.
To avoid discomfort, loosen the devices on the steering wheel and move them to a convenient distance for you, if the steering wheel design allows it.
But do not overdo it so that in a critical situation you can quickly apply the brake without wasting precious seconds.
Keep in mind that the closer your hands are to the center of the steering wheel, the more difficult it is to operate the unit. Therefore, place appliances at a reasonable distance.
Finally, I would like to note that in order to customize the bike for yourself, you need to make two or three “sorties”. This will help to ensure that the stated positions are correct.
Video with tips for customizing your bike:
What makes a mountain bike different from a city bike?
Many novice cyclists are wondering what is the difference between a mountain bike and an urban one. To answer this question, it is enough to look at bicycles and determine by their appearance what type they belong to. They have different frame, fork, attachments, handlebars, saddle and rider fit. Below we list the main distinguishing features of mountain and city bikes, as well as their purpose.
Mountain bike (hardtail)
A mountain bike is primarily distinguished by the presence of a shock-absorbing fork with a travel of 80-100 mm, which smooths out shocks and vibrations from bumps encountered on the way. The most common type of bicycles is precisely the model with one shock absorber located in the fork, there is no suspension at the back (in the frame). Such a great is often called a hardtail, which translates to a hard tail. They are equipped with multi-speed mountain transmissions for easier climbing, wide tires with strong tread and reliable disc or rim brakes to ensure safety when descending the mountain. The handlebars are usually straight with no or little lift. Wheels are 26, 27.5 or 29 inches in diameter.
Hardtails are considered ideal for walking and hiking on mountain and forest trails, as well as other rough terrain and off-roading. You can also take part in cross-country competitions on mountain bikes. Depending on your requirements, you can choose a hardtail of any class, from the budget amateur segment to the professional one.
Hardtails are divided into classes designed for professional cyclists or amateurs riding in an aggressive or walking style. The class of a mountain bike depends on the quality of the frame, suspension fork, wheels and attachments: transmission and brakes.
Professional bikes are based primarily on a very lightweight and durable carbon frame that also has the ability to dampen micro-vibrations. A carbon frame costs a lot of money, so hobby bikes are based on aluminum frames. To reduce weight, frame tubes are made using butting technology. The most budget models have steel frames, the disadvantage of which is a lot of weight.
The professional-style oil-spring forks are considered to be the best, and are ideal for tough conditions and the heavy loads that they experience on tough trails during XC competition. They are very reliable and durable. For races and challenging hikes, oil-air and air forks are also suitable, which also have excellent shock absorption properties. The advantage of the former is greater reliability and durability, but the latter have noticeably less weight, therefore they are often used in competitions.
MTB bicycles of the middle class are equipped with spring-oil amateur forks, which are well suited for hikers and riders in rough and forest areas. The entry-level class is equipped with spring-elastomer forks, which are significantly inferior in reliability and damping quality to the forks of the middle and even more high level. Also, a lot depends on the manufacturer of the plug. The worst are the spring forks of Auchan bikes from unknown manufacturers.
The quality of gear shifting depends on the transmission, the main classes of which are given below:
- lowest level: Shimano Tourney;
- beginner amateur level: Sram X.3, Shimano Altus;
- intermediate amateur level: Sram X.4, Shimano Acera;
- middle. high amateur level Sram X.5, Shimano Alivio;
- high amateur. semi-professional level Sram X.7, Shimano Deore, SLX;
- professional level: Sram X.9, Shimano XT;
- the highest professional level Sram X.0. Shimano XTR.
The best price / quality ratio has equipment of medium and high amateur class.
The best brakes for a mountain bike are disc systems with a hydraulic drive, branded disc mechanics are also a good option, but for the entry level, branded rim brakes are also suitable.
Another type of mountain bike is double suspension, which has not only a front shock absorber in the fork, but also a rear suspension in the frame. They are used for even more extreme skiing, such as downhill skiing. Shock travel on these bikes is usually 120-200mm longer than hardtails. The cost of a normal double suspension is very high, and cheap models are highly discouraged. Also note that these are not suitable for city driving.
In urban conditions, visibility is very important, so the position of the cyclist should be vertical, which will effectively monitor the situation on the road. In addition, the vertical position significantly reduces stress on the back and arms, thus avoiding discomfort.
To ensure a vertical fit, the handlebars of the city bike have a high rise and bend towards the body. A vertical seat carries more load than a horizontal seat, so it is wide, soft and spring loaded.
The frame design is also different, allowing you to ride comfortably in your daily wear. Women’s models do not have a top pipe or it is greatly understated. The fork can be rigid or with short-travel shock absorbers.
The transmission often has a lower number of speeds than mountain models, there are large ones with 3-9 gears, as well as single speed ones. Sometimes they put the usual rear derailleur of the mountain type of an entry or middle level, but planetary hubs for 3-11 speeds are often found, for example Shimano Nexus, Alfine or Sram i-Motion.
Also, city bikes are equipped with full-size metal fenders and a trunk, and sometimes a headlight and a dynamo machine.
What is the difference between a mountain bike and a non-mountain bike (c)
Hello everyone, Maddison is with you. At the request of workers, I will tell you how a mountain bike differs from others.
First, let’s see what types of bicycles exist in general. I will not describe all the existing species, because there are countless of them. I will focus on the most common.
By the type of suspension, bicycles are divided into rigid, hardtail, full-suspension. There is also a soft tail, but due to its low popularity, we will not focus on it.
Rigid. bike without shock absorbers, rigid frame and fork. Hardtail (Hard Tail). rigid frame and suspension fork. Full Suspension. shock absorber, both on the rear and on the front wheel.
Typical modern city bike
Road bikes are a bike for high-speed riding on a flat road. Everything in it is provided for the development of maximum speed. Lightweight frame, narrow wheels with high pressure tubeless tires (more like a tread tube), curved handlebars for a more aerodynamic fit, narrow and stiff saddle, clipless pedals for better efficiency. Of course, no shock absorbers or disc brakes. Only vibrake, only hardcore! Wheel diameter, usually 28″, also a characteristic feature of a road bike is a rather narrow gear range. The use of advanced technologies and materials (titanium, carbon, aluminum, magnesium) allows you to design bicycles weighing less than 3.5 kg. Today there is a UCI (International Cycling Union) restriction on the weight of a road bike for official competitions not less than 6.8 kg.
There are also two subtypes of bicycles in the road bike class.
Track. a bike designed for racing on an indoor or outdoor track. A feature of this bike is the complete absence of brakes and clutch free play.
Trial. the key feature of which is an even more bent, “aerodynamic” landing.
Touring bicycles. designed for cycling tourism. They occupy an intermediate class between highway and city bike. Equipped with full fenders, often two trunks with a bicycle backpack, a softer saddle (compared to highway and MTB) Horns / lounger can be installed on the steering wheel, allowing you to change the grip during a long trip. They are also equipped with a wide range gear shifter. The fork is in most cases amortized. If possible, put a fork with a freewheel lock for driving on a flat road. Depending on the type of terrain, they may have wider or narrower tires. For versatility, semi-slick tires are used. Wheels 26″, less often 29″ Sometimes a bicycle trailer is used to transport cargo. In Kazakhstan and often for cycling tourism, ordinary mountain bikes are used, which are equipped with everything necessary for long trips.
Mountain bike. A mountain bike (abbreviated as MTB) is a bicycle primarily designed for off-road riding. Has a solid frame (steel, aluminum, magnesium, carbon, titanium) Almost always hardtail, with the exception of specific disciplines (trial, dirt) Has a high ground clearance, the pedal axis is at the level of the hubs. Wide handlebars, sports saddle. Landing, something between the highway and the road bike. Wide tires, 2.1″-2.3″-2.5″ up to extreme 2.8″-3.0″ with “toothy” protector. Wheels 26″ often with double and even triple rims. The range of speeds allows you to fine-tune the ride temperature on any surface, down to low gear. Vibrate or disc brakes are used. The advanced models are equipped with forks with blocking travel, with adjustable stiffness and rebound speed. over, the tuning of the fork can be done on the go, using the switches on the steering wheel. Pedals with a wide platform (often from BMX) and aggressive elements to prevent the foot from slipping. In some disciplines, clipless pedals are used, but in downhill, for example, they are prohibited. In mountain biking, everything is aimed at achieving maximum reliability. But despite all this, the average weight of a bicycle is 12-15 kg.
The mountain bike class is divided into several subclasses, depending on the discipline in which they are used. I will probably write in more detail in a separate post, if you are interested 🙂
What makes a mountain bike different from a road bike??
- Designed for speed
- Off-road driving
- Major differences
- Choosing a bike
- Differences between road and mountain bikes. video
Mountain bikes have superior grip and cushioning where road bikes can’t handle the road.
Probably, each type of terrain has its own specially designed bike. Paved roads and country roads have very different surface characteristics that require specialized bicycles.
The paved road bike has more than a century of racing heritage and is the forerunner of all bicycles. Mountain bike was invented much later, but it occupies an important niche in all cycling and has a wide variety of styles and designs for tackling difficult terrain.
Designed for speed
Road bike. lightweight and easy to drive on a level road. These bicycles have thin 700c wheels and thin tires that reduce rolling resistance and increase speed. Racing road bikes are used in competition and are designed to cover the distance quickly in the shortest time.
The frame needs to be light and stiff, so extra strong materials such as carbon fiber and titanium are commonly used for its construction from various manufacturers. Other durable and lightweight materials such as steel and aluminum are removed from the market.
Mountain bikes are designed for off-road conquest. mud, slush, snow, gravel. These bicycles are very sturdy, with thick tires and sturdy wheels to resist damage and shock. Frames are made of aluminum, carbon, steel and titanium to withstand heavy loads.
The suspension system allows the wheels to absorb shock and vibration on rough roads. The mountain hardtail bike has front wheel suspension, while the full suspension bike has shock absorption on both wheels.
The most direct difference between a city bike and a mountain bike is the wheels. Mountain bike wheels are available in sizes from 26 to 29 inches and are always equipped with tires with protruding tread blocks. These tread blocks act as teeth on loose ground and provide traction where smooth road bike tires will slide.
Road bikes use narrower tires without large tread blocks to provide sufficient grip and handling on asphalt.
Choosing a bike
The characteristics that make mountain bikes very comfortable off-road are also suitable for riding on flat roads and bike paths, making them popular with ordinary users. It will never go as fast as a road bike, but the rider’s position and good shock absorption work well on potholes and curbs.
Road bikes. an ideal choice if you ride exclusively on asphalt and want a fast bike; pedaling and going uphill will be much easier on them. Their low weight makes them easy to handle at high speeds.