The brakes on the bike are stuck what to do

Brake cylinder jammed what to do

Symptoms of a malfunction of the main brake cylinder

Problems with brakes on the way are considered critical and must be eliminated immediately. The culprit of the malfunction is often the main cylinder installed in the engine compartment and rigidly connected to the pedal. To find out the cause of the breakdown and repair the unit yourself, you need to know the device of the master brake cylinder (GTZ) and its principle of operation. In the process of diagnostics, it is necessary to distinguish and weed out problems of other elements of the system.

brakes, stuck

Very stiff pedal

Tight pedal, short stroke when pressed. When braking, the car loses directional stability, trying to go to the side. Most often this happens when the caliper cylinders become jammed in one of the system circuits. If the car does not bring anywhere, and the trouble is expressed only in a sharply increased effort during braking, the vacuum brake booster or the vacuum supply hose may be to blame.

Sometimes the increased effort on the pedals is caused by the use of low-quality brake pads, as well as excessive dirt, oiling of both the pads themselves and the surfaces of discs or drums. But this happens quite rarely.

It is also possible that the brake pads are completely worn out or broken. It happens that an ice or salt crust forms on the surface of the discs. It is also possible that the quality of the brake pad linings is poor, as well as severe corrosion of the brake disc (often more on the inside).

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Braking noise

High-frequency noise, squealing, whistling can occur both during braking and. sometimes. during normal driving. The reason is the off-design friction of the friction material against the working surface of the brake disc. The culprit can be extreme wear of the brake pads, severe corrosion of the brake disc (and often from the inner, “invisible” side). It happens that the brake pad has peeled off from the base. The list of possible causes continues with contamination of the pads, warpage of the disc due to local overheating, improper fastening of the pads in the caliper, left pads or discs, etc.

Symptoms of problems

The fluid brake system consists of many parts that can become unusable: tubes, wheel cylinders, calipers, drums and pads. Typical signs of a malfunction of the brake master cylinder:

  • After pressing the pedal, the car stops slowly. The reason. the cuffs of one or two pistons have lost their tightness. cracked or “floated”.
  • To decelerate, you must firmly press the brake pedal. The phenomenon occurs due to swelling of the rubber of the piston seals.
  • Brake pedal travel too short. The fluid inside the cylinder has nowhere to go because the expansion hole is clogged. Another option. the passage is blocked by a swollen rubber seal.
  • A common symptom is pedal failure, and the brakes are applied at the end of the stroke. Indicates complete wear of the cuffs, as a result, the liquid penetrates the piston and rushes into the expansion tank. the cylinder “bypasses”.
  • The pads do not let go of the brake discs and drums, and they get very hot when driving. Options: one of the pistons is jammed or the bypass hole is clogged.
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The listed symptoms of GTZ malfunction are similar to malfunctions of other elements. Pedal failure also occurs when a large amount of air enters the tubes or fluid is lost in one of the working cylinders. Sluggish deceleration and an increase in the power load on the pedal is often caused by a breakdown of the vacuum booster. a crack in the membrane or a lack of tightness at the joints of the hose that takes away the engine vacuum.

There are signs that clearly indicate the operability of the main hydraulic cylinder and the malfunction of other elements:

  • in the process of braking, the car is pulled to the side. the problem lies in a certain contour or wheel;
  • jamming of the brakes of one wheel;
  • creak and squeak when braking;
  • heating discs and pads on one wheel.

If you eliminate these symptoms, it will become easier to check the brake master cylinder in a garage. This also includes obvious leaks of brake fluid and the knock of worn out calipers.

Nissan Skyline Zvezdolet “Atomic 47” ›Logbook› wedge support. the brake disc heats up. cured!

One fine summer day, examining Sky after a short trip, I noticed that heat is emanating from the Right Rear brake disc. you can’t hold your finger on the disc like an iron! doubting the naturalness of what is happening, examined and felt the Left Rear brake disc. cold. in addition, in the future there was an unpleasant squeaky-squeaky sound from the right rear disc.

from what the brake disc feels so clearly not normal, at that moment, I had no idea, especially how to treat it. but I decided to figure it out and fix it myself.

drove to a good friend in the garage, lifted the starboard side, removed the wheel, groped the fastening bolts of the Right Rear Caliper (two of them, both 19 ‘, located horizontally, on the back of the brake disc) washed everything from the dirt and tried to unscrew them. not here that was Oh. bolts stuck!

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pouring a can of WD-40 (fortunately, acquired in advance) onto the stuck bolts almost to the floor, took a hammer over weight and, traditionally in such cases uttering curse after curse, not forgetting about all the known terrible curses, he began to unleash blow after blow on the opposite end of the wrench on the bolt. but he didn’t even think to get out.

Fortunately, all this racket attracted the attention of understanding people who were nearby. from a conversation with whom I learned:

A. the root of the problem is a jammed caliper.
that is, the caliper is in a state of continuous braking, clamped with pads
brake disc, which in turn overheats from continuous friction.
the reason for continuous braking: when you press the brake pedal, the piston (No. 9
on the diagram), leaving the cylinder body (No. 7 in the diagram) presses on the pads, BUT when
releasing the brake pedal, the piston is not retracted into the cylinder as it should, but
continues to press on the pads clamping the brake disc.
the reason for not retracting the piston into the cylinder (in my case): mechanical particles,
corrosion on the outer walls of the piston and the inner walls of the cylinder interfere with
natural stroke of the piston forward / backward when the brake pedal is pressed and
letting go.
B. There is a special lubricant for the caliper fixing bolts and it is necessary
use to avoid sticking

The man turned out to be not only understanding, but also with personal participation provided invaluable assistance in unscrewing the stuck bolts. after a couple of hours the bolts gave in.

Oops! Fix (most) hydraulic disc brakes

with great difficulty managed to pull the caliper from the brake disc. A cursory examination showed the correctness of the hypothesis put forward. the piston “froze” in the extended position. Another result of the inspection was the wildest grinding of the pads. a couple of millimeters left! and how I drove! uzhos nah))) that’s for sure, there would be no happiness, but misfortune helped

I was not ready for such a turn of events and all I could do at that time was to fill the WD-40 piston in the hope that it could be drawn into the cylinder body. holding the cylinder body and the piston with an adjustable wrench, it was possible to press it slightly into the depth of the cylinder body. put the caliper in place. pre-lubricated the fixing bolts with the same WD-40, so that next time they could be unscrewed without problems. so the first round went)

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result: null.
I drove the first couple of meters as if it were normal, but after the first braking, the caliper wedged again.

realizing that the WD-40 alone would not be enough, a radical decision was made. replacing the brake caliper.

I, of course, until the very last moment concealed the hope that it would be possible to cure my support. BUT this required a repair kit. 2 200.0 rubles. a visit to the service station for help in squeezing the piston out of the cylinder body with compressed air, which I would carry to the service station in my. getting back and forth to the disassembled car by bus. it was possible, of course, to entrust all this to the service station guys and with me it was all would have done, but the easy way is not for me. and I want to understand everything myself.

in short, I decided to take the complete caliper from disassembly. 1,500.0 rubles.
acquired the same:
brake pads NISSHINBO in a circle. 2 800,0 rubles.
brake fluid DOT 4. 2 liters. 900.0 rubles.
caliper grease. 1 cylinder. rubles 200.0
grease for pads. 2 sachets. 129.0 rubles.
medical dropper. 2 pcs. 25.0 rubles.
medical syringe. 15.0 rubles.

along the way, the Internet was studied on the issue of pumping the brakes, as an inevitable procedure when replacing the caliper assembly. and rushed.

I recommend starting the replacement of the caliper with. opening the hood and topping up with a margin (that is, above the MAX mark) into the brake fluid reservoir:

Why the brake caliper wedges: how to identify and fix a breakdown

Hello everyone! Any problems associated with the braking system of vehicles are potentially very dangerous. Therefore, every motorist should know why the brake caliper wedges, what can provoke such a situation, how to diagnose and eliminate it. On your own or with the help of specialists, decide for yourself.

Our regular readers will remember that we have already talked about situations when the caliper knocks. Now, let’s look at a slightly different situation. And even more dangerous and unpredictable in terms of possible consequences, if nothing is done, noticing the symptoms.

But sometimes it can wedge and creak from it.