The bike does not change gears on the chainrings.

How to set up your bike’s derailleurs

Every cyclist sooner or later faces the problem of poor gear shifting on a bicycle.

There may be several reasons for this. damaged cables or dirty shirts, a stretched chain, poorly tuned front or rear derailleurs. It is the latter circumstance that most critically affects the quality of gear shifting on a bicycle and can turn your ride into a continuous torment.

Many beginners rely on experienced mechanics for this procedure. This is the correct approach. But over time, you realize that you need to learn how to independently make the specified setting. This will not only help to save a certain amount of money on the services of a bicycle mechanic, but will allow you to independently, at any time, adjust the speeds, ensuring the perfect gear shifting of the bike throughout the entire trip. This text provides specific steps that even a beginner cyclist can follow to adjust the speed of his bike on his own.

Rear derailleur setting.

The first thing to start with the adjustment is an external examination of the rear overhang. It is necessary to make sure that the gear shift cable is securely attached and supplied, its integrity, cleanliness and no wear of the upper and lower derailleur rollers. And also, the flatness of the foot, which during the operation of the bicycle can deform when falling.

It is very easy to check the foot evenness. you need to look at the rear of the derailleur and make sure that the corresponding cassette or ratchet sprocket, as well as the upper and lower roller of the derailleur, are on the same mowing line, perpendicular to the ground. If all of the above conditions are met, you can safely proceed to setting.

bike, does, change, gears, chainrings

It is necessary to set the chain to the minimum rear sprocket, correspondingly turning on the maximum reverse speed on the bike. To carry out the adjustment, both the front and rear overhangs have two adjusting screws on their body, denoted by the letters H and L (High and Low, respectively). Since at the beginning of the adjustment, the chain was set to the maximum gear at the rear, for adjustment you need exactly the screw with the letter H, which is responsible for adjusting the high speeds. Rotating it clockwise or counterclockwise, they achieve such a position of the switch foot so that both of its rollers stand strictly on the same mowing line with the smallest back sprocket. After that, it is necessary to engage the minimum reverse gear, in which the chain is on the largest sprocket at the back. And with another screw, which is designated by the letter L, make an identical adjustment before aligning the rollers with a large sprocket.

Sometimes a situation arises when, after correct and careful tuning and adjustment of the rear derailleur, a problem arises when shifting into high or low gears is poor. This is due to a strong or weak tension in the gear shift cable. This adjustment can be done in two ways. a special regulator on the rear derailleur, or a regulator on the gear shift knob (shifter). Which of the options is used on a particular bike depends on the level of equipment set by the manufacturer. If the chain is thrown poorly into lower gears, the tension of the cable should be increased, and if the chain is dropped to higher gears, on the contrary, it should be reduced.

There is another adjustment option on the middle and high level rear crossovers. distance of the idler roller (top) to the cassette stars (chain tensioner adjustment). It is produced as follows. The chain is installed on the largest sprocket at the back and the largest at the front. In this position, the rear derailleur foot will be pulled to the maximum. And with the adjusting screw, you need to achieve a distance of approximately 5mm from the top roller to the sprocket teeth. It is at this distance that the smoothest and most precise gear shifting is achieved. It is not worth reducing it, as there may be a risk of grazing the roller by the sprocket teeth and damage it.

Front derailleur setting.

Before adjusting the front bumper, the first step is to make sure it is correctly positioned on the bike frame. For beginners, there are two recommendations. The first is to make sure that when you engage the largest chainring at the front, its teeth are at a short distance from the bend of the derailleur frame, as well as at the same distance from it. At the same time, in no case should they touch the frame or, on the contrary, be far from it.

The second is the parallelism of the switch frame to all the stars in the horizontal plane. That is, if you look at the switch from above, then its frame should be parallel to the stars of the system.

You need to start the adjustment by setting the chain to the minimum front and maximum rear sprocket. Next, you need to unscrew the bolt that fixes the cable to the switch housing. After that, it will take its natural position and you can proceed directly to the setting. Turning the screw marked L (Low) in different directions, you need to set the gap between the chain and the switch frame in the region of 1-2 mm. It is this distance that will ensure perfect shifting, and also eliminate the possibility of chain friction on the derailleur frame during driving. After that, it is necessary to fix the shift cable with a slight interference, making sure that it lies in the required groove in the clamping area. With the chain set to the maximum chainring and minimum sprocket, adjust the adjusting screw marked H in the same way until the minimum clearance is found between the chain on the large chainring and the derailleur frame. If, after carrying out the above procedure, difficulties arise with the inclusion of low or high forward speeds, it is worth adjusting the tension of the shift cable, similar to setting the rear derailleur.

Having mastered both types of speed adjustment on a bicycle as quickly as possible, you will protect yourself from unpleasant surprises that may arise during the ride, having the opportunity to make the necessary adjustments at any time, spending a minimum of time and effort.

How to learn how to switch gears correctly on a bike

The bicycle appeared as a fast means of transportation, but was designed for hardy riders and was far from comfortable. On the first “balance bikes” the rider sat on the frame and pushed off the road with his feet, even such familiar things as pedals and a saddle did not appear immediately.

Modern models, among other amenities, have a transmission that allows, if necessary, to change the effort on the pedals. Next, we will consider the design and explain the switching principle of the most common type of transmission. chain transmission.

It is popular due to the relative simplicity of the device and ease of maintenance.

Most beginners, when choosing their first bike, focus on the number of speeds, believing that the more gears, the faster the bike goes.

But the speed of the bike is more dependent on the pedal effort than the number of gears. A regular road bike with a single gear is not much inferior in speed to a high-speed road bike.

So why do you need a lot of gears on a bike? We are going to answer this question and also find out important related points.

Choosing the right gear

If you try to change the speed in a stationary position of the vehicle, it can lead to failure of the transmission. Before you start shifting, the pressure on the pedals will need to be released.

If you need to change gears quickly, try to do so consistently without jumping over them. The fact is that when you miss a few gears, it can break the stars and the derailleur itself. In the same case, when this procedure is carried out sequentially, all units and parts of the transmission will not be damaged.

If you do not know how to adjust the rear derailleur on a bicycle, try not to “throw” the chain between the front sprockets when riding uphill, as this will simply knock the derailleur setting. If you decide to switch between the rear sprockets in this way, then this does not contradict the requirements of the bike’s instruction manual.

It is worth remembering the following rule: if you want to overcome a hill, shift the gear up before starting to climb it. By doing this, you will not only save your strength, but also protect the transmission from damage. The same rule applies when descending from a hill.

Types of speed switches

There are two main types of speed derailleurs. external and internal shifting.

Shifting when going uphill

Novice cyclists are often frightened by the fact that it is categorically impossible to switch uphill. But this is not the case! The rules for switching uphill are simple. If you need to slow down on the chainrings, then you should slow down the torque with the pedals, that is, make the shift as smooth as possible.

Decelerating the torque with the pedals when shifting forward gears should be because the difference between the stars on the front transmission is usually about 10 teeth, and this requires a smooth shift. Therefore, moving uphill (and just on flat terrain), you need to slow down the torque with the pedals, then a smooth and correct switching will occur.

If, while driving uphill, you need to switch the speed on the rear transmission, then on the contrary, you need to increase the torque with the pedals.

How To Fit New Chainrings On Your Road Bike

The only thing that you should definitely not do when going uphill is to increase the speed on the chainrings (switch from 1 to 2, as well as from 2 to 3) You can increase and decrease the speed on the rear stars when going uphill, you can absolutely calmly, without fear that something will happen to your bike.

If, after changing the gears, you hear a clatter or other extraneous sounds, this means that the change has not occurred, and you need to squeeze the shift knob. But it can also mean that your switches need to be configured.

To be honest, personal experience will teach you how to switch gears correctly, so ride, try, train, and then you will succeed.!

And remember that proper gear shifting is not only a guarantee of the health of your bike, but also maximum riding productivity in any terrain.!

bike, does, change, gears, chainrings

External switching mechanism

This type of derailleur is used on most multi-speed bikes, from city to mountain bikes. Gear shifting is carried out using the front and rear derailleurs.

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Front derailleur The front derailleur transfers the chain between the chainrings. The derailleur design has a moving frame within which the bicycle chain runs. When shifting gears with a shifter, the frame moves and becomes above the desired star, which ensures the movement of the chain to this star.

Rear derailleur The rear derailleur is a spring-return mechanism that moves a frame (or foot) with rollers between them within the transverse axis.

The switch is moved in one direction with a cable, and in the opposite direction with a return spring.

When the derailleur is moved, the chain passed through it is thrown from one rear sprocket to another, and the chain tensioner automatically removes the chain slack.

Advantages of external switches: simple design low weight low price high number of gears

Disadvantages of external switches:. highly susceptible to unfavorable external factors. need for adjustment and maintenance. risk of breakage if the bike falls down. it is impossible to change gears if the bike is stationary

Instruments:

The tools you may need are a Phillips screwdriver and possibly a 10 or 8 hex key or wrench depending on the switch. It is also very convenient to carry out work on a special bike rack, but you can also cope without it.

Possible errors when setting the rear derailleur

Question: What if I unscrew the adjusting screw to the end, and the chain still does not switch to 1 speed lower? Answer: Most likely you pulled the cable poorly by hand from step 4, or you did it with insufficiently tightened cable tension adjusting screws from step 3, and it is also possible that you did not pull the cable at the highest speed on the shifter described in step 1.

Question: I reached stage 7, but the chain was not on the smallest star why? Answer: You may have pulled the cable too tight by hand in step 4, in which case try to loosen the cable tension slightly with the adjusting screw. If the chain still does not go to the extreme small star, repeat steps 1 to 4.

Bicycle Rear Derailleur Adjustment

After we have eliminated all 5 possible problems with the rear derailleur, we can begin to configure it. I took a bike with a shimano rear derailleur and divided the whole setup into 8 steps:

On the shifter, we throw off to the highest speed (which corresponds to the smallest star on the block of led stars). We pedal so that the chain is on a small star. (now you understand why it is so convenient to work with the rack)

I do not show numbers on the shifter, but believe me the position of the indicator is on the “number” 9. Which corresponds to the smallest star on the cassette.

When adjusting the rear derailleur on the sprockets (front) the chain is best positioned where you use it most. This is usually the central star on a 3-star system.

Loosen the hexagon or bolt that holds the cable.

We twist it all the way, and then we return one turn back all the adjusting thumbs of the cable tension, which are located on the switch and on the shifter (sometimes there is only one adjustment screw on bicycles, most often it is on the switch, less often on the shifter).

In my case, the cable tension regulator is located only on the shifter. The photo shows how I twist the lamb.

Cross Chaining Explained. What is cross chaining in cycling

We pull the cable with our hand (it is not necessary to pull with all our strength, the main thing is that it does not sag and be stretched along its entire length) and tighten the bolt holding the cable.

Align the center of the derailleur foot rollers with the center of the smallest chainring on the bike. Some people remove the chain for stages 5 and 6 to fine tune them. I do not see the need for this, you can not shoot, especially if you have a switch that is not of the top level, such as shimano tourney, acera or alivio.

Actually, all this movement of the switch occurs using the adjusting screws with the letters “H” and “L”.

We turn the screw “H” with a screwdriver until the centers of the rollers on the foot of the switch and the small star coincide and go on to the next step.

In the photo, I showed a red line, by which you can see that the switch roller is under a small star on the cassette, which means that the extreme position is set correctly.

We switch on the shifter to the lowest speed (number 1), which corresponds to the largest driven star. We twist the pedals so that the chain goes to the extreme sprocket. And also align the center of the presser foot rollers with the center of the largest sprocket. All this alignment takes place with the screw “L”.

On the shifter, the indicator for switching the speed to number 1, if there are no numbers to the most extreme position, which should correspond to the largest star on the cassette.

Essentially, the “H” and “L” screws act as end stops for your derailleur, which keeps the chain from flying off while driving and keeps you alive.

We drop again at the highest speed. Do not forget to pedal. The chain should be on the smallest star. Next, switch to one speed and turn the pedals, if the chain does not jump or does not jump right away, then you need to slightly unscrew the adjusting screw that adjusts the cable tension (it turns out we are pulling the cable).

Then again we check and switch from the highest speed one step lower (if an 8-speed cassette, then from 8 to 7 speed), if the switch happened immediately, congratulations you set the switch! You can check the remaining speeds will also easily and clearly switch both up and down.!

The chain should jump to the adjacent speed. In my case, this is a 9 speed cassette. Switching from 9 to 8.

Adjust the distance from the largest star to the derailleur roller. This distance should be about 4 mm, if the distance is greater, the switching clarity will be reduced. The adjusting screw on the switch is responsible for adjusting this gap. By unscrewing the screw, the distance decreases, screwing it in increases. tuning is done on the largest star corresponding to the number 1 on your shifter.

Bicycle Rear Derailleur Setting

A very common problem faced by cyclists is the rear derailleur not working properly. Today we will try to figure out how to set it up from scratch or adjust it if the settings are out of order.

This article is suitable for setting up all shimano, sram, campagnolo, microshift and other derailleurs, no matter how many speeds you have on your bike, ranging from 2 to 11 speed sprockets on the rear wheel.

Reasons for the deterioration of the rear derailleur:

Lack of service. Most often, when buying a bike, the derailleur works well and flawlessly, but after the season of operation, you can replace the deterioration in performance or even the chain jumping off the extreme sprockets. In 70% of cases, setting the rear derailleur helps, but sometimes this does not help either, then the cable and shirt should be replaced, as they become clogged with dirt and interfere with the smooth running of the cable in the shirt. Usually bike maintenance is done once a year, in which the switch settings are turned on.

Sometimes, to save money, they lubricate the cable with grease or any other lubricant and it turns out to improve the work for a while, but later the lubricant attracts dust to itself and the work deteriorates again, so you will have to do this procedure more often than you would like.

Deterioration of the switch itself. Everything ever breaks down and the derailleur on a bike is no exception. Most often, the parallelogram axes of the switch wear out, due to which a small backlash is formed, which does not allow the correct setting of the switch.

Derailleur sprockets are worn. Over time, plastic sprockets wear out due to which the chain no longer holds on to them, which leads to poor operation of the derailleur. Also, the sprocket axles can wear out and the sprocket will dangle unnecessarily on the axle, which leads to poor shifting.

Curve cock or the switch itself. When you fall or hit something with the switch, the cock will most often bend (break), since it is made specially from a weaker alloy than the switch itself (to keep the more expensive part intact). The curvature does not allow the chains to stand up exactly, which reduces the efforts to adjust the crossover to zero. Read how to straighten a cock with your hands.

Cable problems. Sometimes, during installation or when dropped, the cable may bend strongly, after which the place of the bend will prevent the smooth movement of the cable in the shirt. In this case, it needs to be replaced.

It also happens that the cable gets loose (that’s why you should use the ends of the cables) and subsequently one of the thin threads begins to separate from the main bundle, as a result, interferes with the normal movement of the cable in the shirt. Sometimes one thread in the cable can break and also prevent it from working normally, here you can isolate it from the main bundle along the entire length of the cable. But the best option would be to replace the cable with a new one.

If a new cable was installed, then sometimes after a certain number of kilometers (about 100 km), you can notice a deterioration in switching. this is due to the fact that the cable is slightly stretched. In this case, it will be necessary to tighten the cable tension bolt a little.

Important! If at least one of the 5 problems you have, it will not be possible to adjust the switch perfectly!

Preparing to set up

If you are going to tweak gear shifting, you should start with the rear derailleur, as this will affect the front derailleur. Before the adjustment procedure, you need to make sure that the devices are not damaged or deformed, that they work correctly with each other. It is necessary to check the degree of their deterioration and, if necessary, replace the old elements. It is necessary to clean all dirty elements, remove traces of oil, dust.

Types and design of switches

Today, there are three types of speed switches:

  • external;
  • internal;
  • combined.

Most often, modern mountain bikes are equipped with systems related to external shifting, in such mechanisms the gears are shifted using two switches (front, rear). And on city models, internal gearshifts are often installed. The combo system is the average option, often found on road bikes.

How to adjust the rear shift mechanism?

Check the chain tensioner for bent before starting adjustment. We move it to the highest speed. We unscrew the anchor bolt, and make the cable weaker. We screw the regulating elements on the lever of the device and on the shifter to the end.

The point of adjustment is to put the rollers on the same level with a small asterisk. When we tighten the limiting screw clockwise, the frame will move to the spokes, and if vice versa, backward, away from the spokes.

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Now we move on to pulling the cable, it should be placed in the groove directly next to the fixing bolt, tighten the cable. We fix it with an anchor screw.

The low speed restrictor screw is indicated by (L) high (H) it is important to tighten correctly, if this is done loosely, the chain will fly off the large sprocket or get stuck next to the spokes. If this is done very strongly, then the chain may not translate to a large star. So, the chain must be transferred to a low speed and unscrew the stop screw.

Now, on the contrary. we put the rollers of the switching device on the same level with the big star. Tighten the screw clockwise.

Now precise regulation is in progress. It is done with a regulating drum, which is placed on the shifter. The shifter is set to the highest speed. We set it to the next speed and pedal forward. the chain should move to the next sprocket. If this does not happen, it means that the cable is poorly tensioned. Turn the drum halfway and try again. To reinstall on large stars, you need to pull the cable, on small ones. soften.

So, for fine tuning, you need to transfer the chain from the back to a large sprocket. Unscrew the adjusting screw counterclockwise, the roller will go up. The chain will become taut and the clarity of the gears will increase. The roller must not catch on the star! Better to keep a 5mm gap.

Setting up your bike’s gearshift system

One of the important components of a bicycle’s transmission is the speed switch; a safe and comfortable ride largely depends on the correct use of it. Every cyclist, regardless of whether he rides a mountain bike or a bike designed for city trips, is obliged to correctly adjust the gearshift.

Chain placement on a speed bike

The position of the bike chain on certain gears also has some peculiarities that affect the accuracy of gear changes and the durability of the drivetrain components. Some very helpful tips: never use the smallest sprocket in the front and the smallest in the back. The same applies to the large star in front and the large star behind. If you neglect these recommendations, a so-called chain skew is created in the transmission, which will negatively affect not only its durability, but also the efficiency of the cyclist. The fact is that with a strong misalignment of the chain, the links have a detrimental effect on the teeth of the front / rear sprockets, bending or licking them to one side. Also, if the ratio of the stars is incorrectly selected, the connections between the pins and the links of the chain will be loosened, accelerating its wear. As for the efficiency, it decreases through an increase in friction between the transmission elements, although not significantly.

How to properly switch gears on a bike

No matter how many speeds your bike has, you definitely need to know how to use them correctly in order to extend the life of the transmission components and the ride does not turn into a nightmare with crackling or slipping of the chain. It is important to remember a few rules that will help make gear shifting easy, and most importantly safe.

  • Examine your bike’s drivetrain. you should know how many programs you have in total; how many stars are in front and how many are behind; where to move the shift knobs to increase or decrease the load.
  • Rotation of the pedals. this is a prerequisite for the speed to switch. It is not enough to simply push or turn the handle, it is important to make one full revolution of the front pedals so that the chain takes up the chain of your choice in front or behind.
  • Gear changes will only occur when no or minimum load is applied to the pedals. Even the most expensive derailleur will not be able to move the chain onto an adjacent sprocket if you are not pedaling with all your might. Therefore, practice doing this among flat areas, and over time you will be able to change gears even in the most difficult conditions.
  • Monitor the technical condition of your bike’s shifting system. When the components are not worn out, lubricated in time, and the switches are adjusted, then the gear change occurs in an instant.
  • Remember, the main thing is to cycle as much as possible using the gearshift system. The developed muscle memory will allow you to change gears in spite of the transmission or indicators on the steering wheel with light finger movements without squeaks and other troubles.

Bicycle Speed ​​Shifter

  • single speed
  • multi-speed

With the first point, everything is simple, we have a classic composition of elements: a front rear sprocket, and a chain between them. The size of the gears (the number of teeth) will determine the ratio with which the efforts of your legs are converted to transfer them to the rear wheel. Often, manufacturers use averages to help the rider on a single-speed bike feel confident on level ground, have the strength to tackle a slight incline and accelerate a little off the slope. If the ratio does not suit him, you can increase or decrease the number of teeth on one of the sprockets, thereby ensuring the optimal load.

Multi-speed transmissions feature a much wider gear range available to the rider in one or more finger motions. Having a choice of speeds makes it possible to make the ride more dynamic, faster and more interesting. But what is there, high-speed bicycles allow you to ride where it is difficult to climb on foot, as well as accelerate almost like a car (albeit for a short period of time). Speed ​​bicycles are much more complex and require special training to handle.

Consider the composition of the drivetrain on a bike with speeds: chainrings, front derailleur, chain, rear derailleur, rear derailleur, and most importantly. bike gear shift knobs. Also worth mentioning are tiny but very important elements like cables and shirts (wires in top-end versions) that transfer your finger movements to the gearshifts. In addition to the number of speeds, they are also distinguished by the structure of the switching system: planetary (gears of different diameters are located inside the rear hub or bottom bracket of the bicycle), or the classic multispeed, where all nodes are visible to the outside.

Bicycle Gear Shifting

Most modern bicycles are equipped with high-speed transmissions and it can be very difficult for beginners to figure out how to properly change gears on their bicycles. In catching up, our mentality forces us to read the instructions only after the device is broken. In this article, we will look at the basic rules and recommendations for shifting gears, as well as touch on the topic of maintaining the shifting system and start from the basics. bicycle gearshift devices.

Optimal cycling gear range

Depending on the training of the cyclist or the terrain on which the bike rides, you use a specific set of ratios of front and rear sprockets, which leads to accelerated wear. If you never include at least 50% of the speeds on your bike, it is worth thinking about optimizing not only their number, but also the gear ratio. For example, your bike has 22/32/42 chainrings and a 12-32 cassette at the back. In this case, you most often include gears 22 and 32 in front, and only middle sprockets at the back. In this case, consider changing the cassette to a model with fewer teeth on the large side. For example, modification 11-28 or 11-25. In this case, instead of 3 sprockets at the back, you will use at least 5-6, because the load between adjacent gears will not be as noticeable as on the 11-32 version.

You can do the same with chainrings, but in addition to making them smaller, you can reduce the number of speeds by removing 1 or even 2 stars. In addition to optimizing the load and more rational use of transmission parts, you will slightly reduce the weight of the bike;). In the case of a lack of low gears, it is worth installing a set of rear sprockets with an increased number of teeth on the larger side or reducing the size of the chainrings.

What does “shift gear” mean??

Gear shifting is a chain transfer from one chainring to another. Thus, the gear ratio and the force “on the pedals” are changed.

First of all, for comfort. Gears allow you to save power and choose a comfortable pedaling mode based on:

  • The relief of the road (plane, ascent or descent, acceleration or smooth braking);
  • The quality of the road surface (highway, country road, mountains);
  • Required speed;
  • Weather (tailwind or headwind);
  • The physical condition of the rider.

How many bike speeds do you need and how to switch them?

A common but diminishing misconception that the more speeds the better.

Need to ask the question which is better? Or who is better?

Today you can find solutions from 1 to 33 speeds. In various combinations: 1×7, 1×11, 2×9, 3×10 (the first number is the number of stars in front, the second number is the number of stars on the back of the cassette). Multiplying these numbers, you get the maximum number of speeds that you can “turn on” while riding.

With the right gears:

  • Move faster and more economically (in terms of physical strength);
  • Get a longer service life of the bike components;
  • Reduce stress on knee joints.

And also go faster downhill, climb uphills with less effort, or drive at a comfortable constant speed.

Rear on the cassette, if the bike is multi-speed, usually from 5-11 stars. So transmissions are 7/8/9/10/11 high-speed.

If the bike has 6-7 speeds, it means that it has one front sprocket (gear) and a rear cassette of 6-7 stars. If 18 or more. there are 3 chainrings and a rear cassette of 6-7 stars. Sometimes the rear cassettes are 9-10-11 stars, which allows you to bring the number of speeds up to 27-30.

Why did everyone want to make faster speeds before??

It was believed, not unreasonably, that the greater the gear ratio on a particular bike, the more accurate the gear can be selected for a specific terrain. It really is.

However, today they still come to the conclusion that you can get by with fewer sprockets on a bicycle. Thus, greatly saving weight, since the extra stars in the front and the front derailleur are removed.

Why does the chain not fall off one sprocket in front?

Development of recent years. a special Narrow Wide chainring with variable and higher cross-section of teeth, as well as a special rear derailleur that dampens all unevenness. All this together eliminates the need for a chain damper on the chainring.

The tendency is that the higher the class is the transmission. from 7 to 11 speed, the more expensive it is.

  • 7-9 speed bikes are put on the most affordable bicycles;
  • 10 speed bikes can be found on middle class bicycles;
  • 11 and even 12 speed versions are found on professional models.

The more stars there are in the cassette, the closer they become to each other and the chain will be thinner. From this, the price of such a product will be higher, and the durability is lower.

What do the numbers mean in the description of the transmission 48x36x26T?

They represent the number of teeth on the sprockets. If you are a beginner, then the information is almost useless for you as there is nothing to compare with. But if you are already an experienced bike enthusiast, you can choose a new transmission or bike according to your preferences based on the experience of previous bicycles.

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How to properly switch gears on a bike

If you want your chain and sprockets to last as long as possible, it is recommended that you switch at minimum load. Let us explain. shifting in the middle of a climb puts a very heavy load on the transmission, which can lead to situations up to a derailleur break or an open circuit.

Also try to shift early and avoid excessive chain skew.

After riding for a while, whether you lubricate the chain or not, attention to the drivetrain may be required. The chain may stop switching perfectly as at the very beginning. Problems can be as follows:

  • The gearshift cable is stretched. it is required to pull up with a special lever on the shifter or switch;
  • Too much dirt has accumulated in the cable jacket. it is better to replace it together with the cable;
  • Rear derailleur not configured. tuning required, better in a workshop.

What types of steering wheel switches are?

They switch gears with special handles on the steering wheel. shifters. They are:

  • rotary. gears are switched by turning the knob;
  • (revoshift and grip-shift, grip-shift). when you rotate the handle towards yourself or away from yourself, the speed is switched.
  • lever. gears are switched by special levers.

Dedicated finger levers. One switches to a higher speed, the other to a lower one. These shifters are more convenient for many cyclists, less whimsical to maintain, but often more expensive.

Typically, the left shifter is responsible for shifting the three front gears, and the right shifting the sprockets in the rear cassette. Thus, the left derailleur and chainrings are used to adapt to the main type of terrain. And the right one for private and short-term changes during the trip.

professionally speaking, changing the speed changes the cadence. Cadence is the cadence and the required pressure applied to the pedals by changing the gear ratio between the wheel and the pedals. Cadence is important in terms of strength and health benefits to evenly distribute the energy expended in pedaling.

The optimal cadence is considered to be in the region of 60-100 rotations per minute.

If you are driving uphill or on uneven terrain, you need to make a lot of effort to pedal, which, for a long time, can lead to arthritis. Turning on a low speed will make it easier for yourself to pedal, reduce stress on muscles and joints, but the bike will go slower.

On a flat track or when descending a mountain, you must turn on a high speed, then more effort will be required to pedal (compared to models without speeds or other gear), but the two-wheeled horse will become faster, more stable, it will move smoother and more stable.

So how many speeds do you need to be happy??

Let’s answer this question as follows. As in the article, how much does a good bike cost, we will note that it all depends on the use of the bike and the place of riding.

If you only ride on paths in a park or sidewalk, you really don’t need the speed on your bike. But fans of cross-country driving, long journeys with alternating ascents, descents and flat areas, real athletes will appreciate this parameter.

For city and folding bicycles, there is no need for more than 7-9 speeds. For them the thesis “the more the better” does not work.

For mid to high end mountain bikes, 1×10, 1×11 (One star front and 10-11 rear) solutions are already available today. At the same time, “only” 10-11 speeds are enough even for mountainous terrain. On more affordable bikes, options like 2×10, 3×9 are more common.

For amateur riding, 18 speeds are enough. Driving in a city, park or woodland is less demanding on gear ratios.

The need to switch

The gears on the bike are primarily needed for comfortable, efficient movement in certain conditions. With their help, a cyclist can go faster, accelerate downhill, effortlessly drive up a steep incline, and easily maneuver in difficult areas. for example, in sand or soft mud. or around the city, making constant detours around obstacles. The presence of speeds is one of the signs of a mountain bike, and the more there are, the less suffering will be caused by difficult paths and paths.

How many speeds are on the bike. depending on what!

So, a modern bicycle has 2-3 stars in the front (system) and 5-10 stars in the back (cassette). Gear shifting is carried out using the rear and front derailleurs, which work with the chain, throwing it over the stars of the connecting rod system and along the small stars on the rear wheel hub, from which the speed changes. Gear shift control levers (coins) can be in the form of levers and grip shift. a swivel shift mechanism on the handlebar.

The number of speeds is determined by the quantitative combination of front and rear sprockets. To calculate how many speeds on the bike, you need to multiply the number of chainrings by the number of rear sprockets. For example, there are 3 stars in the front, and 8 stars in the back, for a total of 24 speeds. There are other variations: 3×5, 3×6, 3×7, 3×8, 3×9, 3×10. over, systems and cassettes can have a different number of teeth on the stars, the speed also depends on this.

How to switch

There have never been and never will be strict rules for gear shifting. But there are some combinations that help shift more efficiently and also extend the life of the entire drivetrain. Indeed, during operation, the chain is often skewed due to the arrangement of the sprockets in parallel planes, which causes its wear.

The figure shows the recommended gear combinations for different types of terrain.

In order to reduce wear and increase the service life of the gearshift mechanism, sprockets and chain, it is recommended to shift at the moment of minimum load. This means that shifting in the middle of a climb puts a very heavy load on the drivetrain, which could result in derailleur breakage and chain breakage.

Therefore, riders and amateurs participating in cross-country competitions, where the load on all mechanics is especially great, try to protect themselves from unpleasant surprises and acquire high-class attachments, as well as monitor the condition of the chain and stars, regularly wash, adjust or replace mechanisms.

How many speeds on the bike

People who are far from cycling still have no idea that modern bicycles are equipped with a variety of speeds, a kind of “gearbox”. The presence of a gearshift mechanism makes it possible for a cyclist to ride in different conditions, which are determined by both the road surface and the terrain. And yet, how many speeds on a bike does a rider or amateur need to have to be completely happy? For everyone, happiness is measured in its own way, but we will try to find out what the programs are for.

Feel the bike. switch right

The only way to find the right combinations for your individual needs is to put your bike to the test. Everyone has different physical capabilities, and for someone 5 stars are enough, and for someone 10 is not enough, because the main trump card, whatever one may say, remains constant training, exercises and loads on the working muscles of the legs.

The switching figure shown is a rough guide for a beginner to use. Experienced cyclists who have learned to feel their bike are not monitoring the correct gear. The determining factors are the driving conditions and the level of training of the person sitting behind the wheel of a two-wheeled vehicle.

How many speeds on the bike

People who are far from cycling still have no idea that modern bicycles are equipped with a variety of speeds, a kind of “gearbox”. The presence of a gearshift mechanism makes it possible for a cyclist to ride in different conditions, which are determined by both the road surface and the terrain. And yet, how many speeds on a bike does a rider or amateur need to have to be completely happy? For everyone, happiness is measured in its own way, but we will try to find out what the programs are for.

How to switch

There have never been and never will be strict rules for gear shifting. But there are some combinations that help shift more efficiently and also extend the life of the entire drivetrain. Indeed, during operation, the chain is often skewed due to the arrangement of the sprockets in parallel planes, which causes its wear.

The figure shows the recommended gear combinations for different types of terrain.

In order to reduce wear and increase the service life of the gearshift mechanism, sprockets and chain, it is recommended to shift at the moment of minimum load. This means that shifting in the middle of a climb puts a very heavy load on the drivetrain, which could result in derailleur breakage and chain breakage.

Therefore, riders and amateurs participating in cross-country competitions, where the load on all mechanics is especially great, try to protect themselves from unpleasant surprises and acquire high-class attachments, as well as monitor the condition of the chain and stars, regularly wash, adjust or replace mechanisms.

The need to switch

The gears on the bike are primarily needed for comfortable, efficient movement in certain conditions. With their help, a cyclist can go faster, accelerate downhill, effortlessly drive up a steep incline, and easily maneuver in difficult areas. for example, in sand or soft mud. or around the city, making constant detours around obstacles. The presence of speeds is one of the signs of a mountain bike, and the more there are, the less suffering will be caused by difficult paths and paths.

How many speeds are on the bike. depending on what!

So, a modern bicycle has 2-3 stars in the front (system) and 5-10 stars in the back (cassette). Gear shifting is carried out using the rear and front derailleurs, which work with the chain, throwing it over the stars of the connecting rod system and along the small stars on the rear wheel hub, from which the speed changes. Gear shift control levers (coins) can be in the form of levers and grip shift. a swivel shift mechanism on the handlebar.

The number of speeds is determined by the quantitative combination of front and rear sprockets. To calculate how many speeds on the bike, you need to multiply the number of chainrings by the number of rear sprockets. For example, there are 3 stars in the front, and 8 stars in the back, for a total of 24 speeds. There are other variations: 3×5, 3×6, 3×7, 3×8, 3×9, 3×10. over, systems and cassettes can have a different number of teeth on the stars, the speed also depends on this.

Feel the bike. switch right

The only way to find the right combinations for your individual needs is to put your bike to the test. Everyone has different physical capabilities, and for someone 5 stars are enough, and for someone 10 is not enough, because the main trump card, whatever one may say, remains constant training, exercises and loads on the working muscles of the legs.

The switching figure shown is a rough guide for a beginner to use. Experienced cyclists who have learned to feel their bike are not monitoring the correct gear. The determining factors are the driving conditions and the level of training of the person sitting behind the wheel of a two-wheeled vehicle.