Stealth bike pedal with pin falls off

Shock absorbing fork

At first glance, a great thing, it allows you to conceal road irregularities, easily drive up the curbs. But there is one unpleasant thing here. When descending a hill, when the front wheel hits even a small hole or bump, the bike sends you somersault over the handlebars and the softer the springs, the more dangerous. Here, of course, there is also a fault and a low-set handlebar, which is shifted forward, due to which the center of gravity of the cyclist shifts. To prevent this from happening or in the event of a failure of the springs, professionals replace them in the fork with reinforced rubber hoses.

Womens bike

bike, pedal

This is due to the fact that women rode in skirts or dresses. Naturally, it would not be decent to throw your leg back high because of the frame, and the asterisk needed better protection so as not to wind the hem of the dress. Now such problems are a thing of the past. The fair sex puts on shorts or pants, but cunning marketers are still trying to convince us that a bicycle for women should be different constructively. Supposedly, this is due to the different anatomy of men and women: shorter thigh, longer little finger, and so on. The frame is made a little shorter, the upper bar is lowered, similar to how it was done before, the springs on the fork are softer, the bikes themselves are smaller. Chasing ghostly, subtle features, manufacturers forget about the main difference between people and bicycles. this is growth. As in men’s bicycles, the handlebars are not adjustable in height or do not adjust, but within narrow limits. As a result, it will be even easier to fly over the steering wheel, going down the hill. It becomes harder for tall girls to pick up a bike because manufacturers believe that all women are shorter than men.

Gear shifting

A very good thing, it allows you to gain crazy speeds and overcome steep climbs. Only it must be used correctly. Unlike a car, where you always need to start from the first, then switch to the second, etc., on a bicycle you do not need to constantly change speeds. Low gears are needed only for climbing hills, in order to gain in power. to make it easier for yourself to climb, but lose in speed. Cyclists can often be seen riding on a horizontal plane, pedaling intensively, but moving slowly. If you pedal with your feet, which do not encounter resistance at all, then a lot of energy is still consumed. Therefore, such driving will be irrational.

Road bikes can also be equipped with a gear shifting system. Is it possible to go somewhere on a bike that has only one speed? According to the established public opinion. no, it is impossible. In fact, this is not the case. You can easily drive to the nearest town, provided that there are no large differences in elevation along the way. Also, do not think that if the bike is not “high-speed”, then you cannot ride it fast. You cannot switch to the “afterburner” mode on it, but you can drive very quickly. Ultimately, a lot depends on the cyclist himself. I have witnessed more than once how the owners of a “sports” bike dragged their “iron horse” into a trolleybus and thus overcame slides, while other people on road bicycles at the same speed passed the same slides without any problems on their wheels; how experienced cyclists on high-speed sports bicycles constantly ride only at the speed of a retired summer resident and even at such a speed they quickly fizzle out.

Can You Improve Grip On Flat Pedals? | Ask GMBN Anything About Mountain Biking


For sports bicycles, this detail is considered optional, to a greater extent decorative, they fall off easily and poorly fulfill their purpose. protecting the cyclist from splashes so that the back, trousers, shoes are not smeared with mud. If you travel in dry weather, this does not mean that you will not come across a puddle that cannot be avoided.

Misconceptions about bicycles

The article is intended for those who are just going to get on a bike and those who ride, but not very much, for their own pleasure, just to warm up or to move to the country, fishing, work.

Mountain Bike Care. How To Clean?

The bike needs to be looked after. Anyone who remembered this simple truth on the day of his purchase, most likely, has a minimum of problems with the operation and maintenance of the bike.

Mountain biking is a frequent visitor to problem roads and extreme landscapes that are not distinguished by their cleanliness. After the most ordinary ride on a mountain bike, it must be tidied up at least so that the next ride will bring pleasant emotions and benefits.

When asked whether it is necessary to wash the bike?. different cyclists answer differently. There are ardent adherents of water procedures, who wash their bike after each ride. There are people who believe that water is not so good for the metal parts of the bicycle, and therefore they rarely wash it. But as always. the truth is somewhere in between. You don’t need to splash fanatically, but you shouldn’t neglect washing your bike either.

There are a few simple rules to follow to make your bike enjoyable. First of all, do not leave the bike in the cold, in the rain or snow, in the heat in the sun. Temperature drops have not benefited anyone or anything, so there is no need to take risks with a bike.

You should only wash your bike when it is extremely dirty. after riding in mud, falling, etc. If you rode in dry weather, then it is enough to wipe the bike with a dry soft cloth, and brush the moving parts with a brush. Is it summer or fall.

In winter, the bike needs to be washed in warm water with car shampoo after each walk, since the reagents and salts that are sprinkled on the roads in winter are the main enemies of the wheels and moving parts of the bike. After washing, the bike must be wiped dry, you can even dry it with a hairdryer. the main thing is that there is no water left anywhere, which can cause rusting of the metal.

Particular attention must be paid to the hard-to-reach places of the mechanism, since a lot of dirt accumulates there over time, which can literally kill a bicycle.

You need to wash your bike correctly. If your bike is equipped with removable electronics, it must be removed to prevent water from spoiling it. If the electronics are not removable, then the bike must be washed very carefully for obvious reasons. In this case, it is better not to water the bike with jets under pressure, but to use a soft sponge and thoroughly wash everything with your own hands. Longer, but safer.

Ideally, you should only wash your bike if the dirt cannot be removed otherwise. An alternative to washing is to clean the bike with a brush and soft rags. After hygienic procedures, it is necessary to oil all the parts that require it and leave the steel horse to rest.

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Pedal fell off and need new pedal and front crank

Mountain bike service.

Check the bushings There may be looseness in the bushings, carriage, steering column. If you do not keep track of this in time, the case may end in serious repairs. At an early stage, these problems can be eliminated more easily and without significant financial costs. Check the bushings and the carriage every time after or before riding. If there is a backlash. pull up, if there is extra noise, scraping or rotation is not very smooth. then disassemble the sleeve and clean it. Never abandon such things, otherwise the bushings can be completely broken.

Check the brake cables If you have brakes, do not forget to check them too. The protective “shirts” get dirt, so if possible. clean them. Lubricate the cables before installation. A thick Teflon grease is perfect for this. Don’t use the popular WD-40. WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant, so it dries.

Damaged Parts A part that goes bad at the wrong time can let you down a lot, so keep an eye on the components of your bike all the time. Tighten all the nuts, bolts, screws all the time. Anything can break. axles, pegs, steering wheel, seatpost, connecting rods, etc. From time to time, overhaul various parts, especially those that need lubrication (bushings, carriage, steering column, etc.).

Lubrication All rotating and rotating parts on your bike need lubrication. If your bike has closed bearings, then you will have less fuss, and if open, you will have to spend time cleaning and lubricating. How often this should be done depends on how often you ride and where you ride (for example, just a flat or dirt track). In principle, it is often not worth lubricating the parts (it also takes time for the bearings to “roll in”). one time in a couple of months will be quite enough. Don’t forget about chain lubrication as well. this is also a very important part.

How to lubricate parts? At a minimum, you should have two types of lubricant. Thick and runny. The differences are, I hope, clear. Recently, many have been using Teflon as a lubricant. It can be both thick and liquid (thick. white, liquid. dirty yellow, later turns into a gray bloom). But there are a lot of brands of lubricants. ask familiar mechanics, or read on bike sites (BMX lubricant is no different from MTB lubricant).

By the way, if you put any parts on your bike that are installed by screwing in or something like that, then I highly advise you to lubricate the threads with liquid lubricant. This prevents the parts from rusting and you can then remove the part without any problems at any time. Very convenient lubricants in aerosol cans.

Mountain bike care

the running gear must be clean The running gear consists of: chain, cassette, sprockets, rear and front derailleurs. The undercarriage of the bicycle is open, so it is necessary to constantly monitor its cleanliness. Sand, dirt on the sprockets and chains are abrasive and will significantly reduce component life and affect the clarity of gear changes. If the cleanliness of the frame and tires is an aesthetic affair, then the cleanliness of the chassis is practically necessary. There are special products for washing the bike. it is recommended to use them.

the chain must be clean and lubricated Cleaning and lubricating the chain is of utmost importance. First, a dirty chain will significantly reduce the clarity of gear changes. Second, dirt increases chain link friction and requires extra effort when pedaling. A small brush can be used to clean the chain, but it is better to use a special machine. For this, the same wash is used as for a bicycle. With the help of a machine and a wash, the chain cleans up faster (1.5 minutes. the chain is clean), and most importantly, the machine knocks out dirt from the inside of the chain links, which, in general, creates all the problems. After cleaning, the chain must be rinsed with water, then wiped with a dry cloth. Apply special Teflon lubricant to a clean, dry chain. This lubricant has an important feature. it is polymer. The liquid component dries up, leaving the polymer base, which, in fact, is the lubricant for the chain. Other lubricants are not suitable. the liquid base does not dry out, squeezes out and collects all the dirt and dust on the chain, even in dry weather. This problem does not arise with Teflon grease.

maintain the required pressure in the tires The tire pressure determines the ride quality of the bicycle and the likelihood of the appearance of “eights” on the wheels. The tire pressure depends on the diameter of the tire. Standard mountain bike tires are typically 19 “to 22” tires. For such tires, the pressure range is 2.8. 4.5 atmospheres (this is written on the side of any tire). 4 atmospheres recommended. Very often, pressure is written in other units. PSI. The 2.8. 4.5 atmosphere range corresponds to 40. 65 PSI. If the tires have a smaller volume (for example, “slicks”), then the pressure can reach 6 or more atmospheres. In such cases, the pressure range written on the tire must be taken into account. For a road bike (wheel 28 inches), tire volume 35. 45 mm., Pressure range 3.5. 6 atmospheres (50. 85 PSI). Road bikes have a tire volume of 18. 25 millimeters, a pressure of 8. 10 atmospheres or more. General recommendation: maintain pressure 85. 90% of maximum.

Tensioning the bike chain

An important element in the care of any bike is to control the chain tension and tighten if necessary. When pedaling and shifting gears, the chain must not emit any extraneous sounds. This applies primarily to simple bicycles, without gear shifting or with a planetary type of gear shifting (shifting is combined with the rear hub of the bike). The chain is tensioned by loosening the nuts or eccentrics of the rear wheel and moving it along an inclined groove.

Mountain bike chain tensioning with external rear derailleur is provided by a special chain tensioner and usually does not require adjustment.

Bicycle adjustments can be roughly divided into two parts: what you can do yourself and what you do not want to do yourself.

You can independently: put and remove wheels, rearrange the tires (the adjustment of the brakes is not disturbed); adjust the height of the saddle and handlebar (not all bicycles have handlebar height adjustable);

change the stroke of the brake levers using the adjusting screws.

The most undesirable: to eliminate backlash in the carriage, bushings, steering column (except for the Ahead Set); adjust brakes, transmissions;

Of course, “undesirable” does not mean “prohibited”. these are just recommendations based on the experience of the bike workshop.


  • If your bike has steel parts, then using water can cause rust. To avoid this, dry your bike thoroughly after washing.
  • If you eat with an offset gear or derailleur, the chain can easily slip off the sprockets.
  • Do not allow the brake pads to wear to such an extent that they begin to scratch the discs.
  • Do not drive with a dim flashlight. replace the batteries.
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Mountain bike storage.

It is recommended to store your bike in a dry, warm place. Cables and jackets of brakes and switches, bushings, carriage, column, chain, other metal components rust from dampness. Constant violation of the rules for storing a bicycle usually leads to the failure of components. Therefore, balconies, cold garages, bike storage sheds are not suitable. Usually there is a place for this in the apartment.

Cleanliness and dryness is a guarantee that your bike will live for a long time. When your bike is clean, it will be easier for you to notice damage, scratches, cracks or components that are about to break. In addition, dirt getting into any moving parts of the bike makes this very movement difficult. For example, sand getting into the bushings scratches its surface and wears out the bearings. It is enough to clean your bike at least once a week, but it also does not hurt to wipe the bike from dust or excess dirt after each ride. Do not use a strong jet of hose to wash the bike. this will wash out the grease. Just take a damp cloth and wipe the outside of the bike with it. Also, do not forget to rub the rims and brake pads, at least with plain water.

What do you need

  • 1 glove compartment
  • 1 set of side vanes
  • 2 spare cameras
  • 1 set for patching the camera
  • 1 circuit breaker
  • several spare chain links
  • 1 folding allen wrench and screwdriver
  • 1 spoke adjuster
  • 1 pump for forks
  • 1 bicycle lubricant
  • 1 bucket of warm, soapy water
  • 1 bicycle brush
  • 1 wet rag
  • 1 dry cloth

Submitted by: Julia Davydova. 2017-11-12 13:40:56

Rollers whistle

The rear derailleur rollers can whistle hard. There are no bearings, and periodically you need to apply grease to their cups. However, after a month they can start whistling again, as if nothing had happened. It is treated by replacing rollers with industrial bearings.

Carriage creak

Probably most of the extraneous sounds are brought by the carriage, which is logical. it has the main load of transferring energy from the pedals to the wheels. First you need to make sure it’s not about the pedals. At a minimum, remove them, inspect for backlash, grease the threads with grease and screw them back.

The latter, by the way, should be done every six months, for obvious reasons. If it is possible to put other pedals for testing, put it on. The sound remains. we dig further. We take the tool for removing the carriage (depending on the type) and unscrew everything.

We wipe thoroughly (including the inside of the carriage assembly), inspect, lubricate and assemble back. We tighten not with all the foolishness, but rather strongly. The sound should be gone. If you have a cartridge carriage (for example, a “square” system), then the sound can be emitted by the carton itself with bearings. then this bulkhead of the unit will not help. change, since it costs a penny.

Also check if the stars of the system are screwed on well. Remove all bolts, lubricate with thread lock and screw back.

Wheels cracking

It happens that when driving, especially vigorous twisting, irregular clicks are heard from somewhere below. Wheels are cracking, or rather spokes.

In the article about editing eights, I described the operation to shrink the knitting needles, it will have to be repeated. If the crackling persists, you may have to remove the spoke after the spoke, and lubricate the threads with special grease.

In principle, everything that moves and does not can make sounds in a bicycle, so do not limit yourself to the above list. Wheel bushings can creak, the chain can cling to something, the fork can play and click. Need to find. Run hex on all bolts from stem to brake rotors.

Riding a squeaky bike is not only unpleasant but also unsafe. Clicking and popping sounds can be evidence of a breaking frame. Try to bend the frame by pressing your foot into the carriage axis, press the saddle with all your weight. is the rear triangle “playing”? The most dangerous thing is probably the separation of the head tube.

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Saddle and seat post creak

This sound also makes you nervous, since most often you sin on the carriage assembly when it appears. You need to determine what exactly squeaks and clicks: a saddle or a seat. Pull out the bolt securing the saddle from the bottom, coat with thread lock and screw tight. Do not overdo it, however. I saw this bolt burst on people on a hike due to overtightening.

If the sound remains, then the seatpost is the problem. You need to pull it out, and clean the pipe well. a lot of sand accumulates there. Clean the seat itself. It needs to be lubricated with a special grease, but I don’t remember what it is called, tell me in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, who knows

Don’t forget the seat clamp. it should also be clean and well tightened.

Steering sounds

The steering column is tricky in that it spreads the emitted sound throughout the frame, and it is very difficult to accurately localize the source. I remember that I had to take turns disassembling one bicycle assembly after another for several weeks, and in the end I did not know what to do.

The bike mechanic helped when he heard about my problem. He advised to disassemble the steering, clean and lubricate the bearings, carefully tighten the stem bolts, choosing free play. I did everything he said. and the sound miraculously disappeared. Bicycle grease like Finish Line Premium or Shimano Premium Grease is a useful thing in the household.

Eliminate bike squeaks

Bicycles tend to squeak. this is still not the easiest mechanism, and besides, it is subject to considerable stress. It’s not for me to tell you how clicking and squeaking can be made out of nowhere.

As practice shows, the most difficult thing is to localize the sound source. In fact, a squeak is just parts rubbing against each other that need to be reassembled and lubricated.

But the bike frame is such a thing that it can transmit sound in a completely different direction: it is not surprising when the rear hub is disassembled due to a clicking steering wheel.

I do not pretend to illuminate all the sore spots of the bike in terms of squeaks and other extraneous sounds, but I will try to give some guidance. Also, I do not consider the sounds made by the double suspension rear suspension due to the complexity of the design. So what creaks in the bike?

Squeaking brakes

I’ll start with a slightly irrelevant, but very unpleasant point. the squeaky bike brakes. This is a problem that plagues many Catalans, and some even consider it normal. Consider vibrake for a start.

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Here, squeaking is generated by three factors: brake pad material, rim condition and pad supply. With the first, everything is simple. you need to experiment with the pads. The softer the rubber, the quieter they brake, but wear out faster.

The condition of the rim is the degree to which it is worn and dirty. By the way, by the way. the rim under the vibrake can wear out to such an extent that it bursts around the circumference. I saw it with my own eyes. Do not lead to sin.

You can clean the rim by all available methods. gasoline, thinner, white spirit. the main thing is to clean the rubber bitumen from the pads rubbed into the metal. If all else fails, use a medium grit sandpaper.

The pads must fit very accurately to the rim at a certain angle. Take a look at the picture below, everything will become clear.

Disc brakes are easier. Here, almost everything depends on the material of the pads. Metallized material is harder, it overheats more slowly. it is used where powerful braking is required, for example in the mountains. May squeak, especially in the rain.

The organic material is soft, silent, with excellent modulation. It would be ideal if not for heavy wear and tear due to heavy use. It is also bad that it overheats quickly, up to strong smoke.

The rotors can also be cleaned with solvent and sandpaper. In theory, if you pick up good pads, then the brakes will not squeak in any conditions. At least, I have no squeak on any bike, whether it be discs or vibrating racks.

What to do if the pedal is unscrewed on a bicycle

Any more or less complex technical structure tends to break. There are many reasons for this fact. defective structural elements, poor-quality assembly of this bicycle assembly, wear of parts, and so on. Be that as it may, the question of what to do if the pedal is unscrewed on the bike puzzles the owner of the bike, faced with this fairly common problem. In addition to the discomfort caused by the constantly unscrewing pedal, the operation of a technically faulty bike is fraught with tragic consequences.

Therefore, it is necessary to quickly solve this problem and use the bike without worrying about your own safety. We will figure out what should be done so that the bicycle pedal does not unscrew, we will answer a number of related questions to this topic, and also give some relevant recommendations.

Types and structure of bicycle pedals

Before proceeding with self-repair, you need to get general information about the types and structure of this seemingly simple element of the bike. Conventionally, bicycle pedals are divided into ordinary (traditional) designs, contact ones designed for special shoes, as well as combined ones, combining both types. one plane is ordinary, the other is for special sneakers. All types are structurally almost the same and consist of the following elements:

  • the axis is the basis of the entire element, which is a pin made of metal, screwed into the connecting rod;
  • platform. a part directly in contact with the cyclist’s leg, attached to the axle;
  • bearings. elements that provide a movable (do not impede rotation) connection between the axle and the platform;
  • additional parts. bolts, nuts, guaranteeing reliable fixation of all components of the pedal.

Having received information about the structure of this element of the bicycle, you can proceed directly to the repair.

Important! Before proceeding with the repair of the left or right pedal, it is necessary to prepare the corresponding tool. You will need a small adjustable wrench to get to the nut without interference. Puller and pedal wrench: the first is for contact types, the second is for non-standard nuts. Both tools are usually supplied with.

Solution to the problem

Most often, cyclists are faced with the fact that it is not the pedals themselves that are unscrewed, but the connecting rod itself. the lever that transfers the rotation energy to the system of stars and chains, forcing the bike to ride. This is due to a factory defect in rare cases, due to wear of parts, but more often due to poor-quality assembly after maintenance (lubrication of elements) or replacement of the unit. The play that occurs when riding on a loosely fixed connecting rod on the axle looses the fixing bolt, which, in turn, turns the square of the carriage into a more abstract figure. Ideally, a failed unit should be replaced. However, if such an opportunity is not observed in the near future, and you want to ride a bike, you can fix the problem yourself.

Fantastic recipes are offered on various forums on the Web for solving the problem of unscrewing the pedal. up to the use of welding. Yes, it is possible to weld the connecting rod tightly, if it is metal, to the axle, and it really will never unscrew itself. But when the time comes for replacement, it will only be possible to remove it with the help of an “angle grinder”. It is much more effective and practical to use a thread lock. an anaerobic (curing without oxygen access) composition that functions like glue for metal. The process is as follows:

Calvin’s Corner: On-The-Ride Bike Repair. Crank and Pedal

  • We carry out disassembly of the “damaged” bicycle assembly using the tools prepared in advance.
  • The carriage axis, the inner planes of the connecting rod, the thread of a bolt or nut (in cheaper designs) should be thoroughly cleaned of grease. To do this, you must have rags and a special mixture (can be replaced with ordinary kerosene).
  • Next, we assemble the assembly, but before tightening the bolt, we apply a few drops of the retainer to the thread.

While the bolt is tightened, the compound is evenly distributed over the entire surface, gluing the elements together. As a result, the load, thanks to the retainer, is evenly distributed along the entire length of the thread, self-loosening is excluded, and reliable protection against the appearance of corrosion and rust appears.

Important! You should be aware that bicycle pedals have different threads, designed to be self-tightening. In other words, the axle of the right pedal is unscrewed counterclockwise. Conversely, the axle of the left pedal is unscrewed clockwise.

A few words about the fixator

  • the red clamp has the highest strength indicator. it will not work to turn the pedal after its application (you will have to resort to using the same “angle grinder”);
  • the green retainer can be weak or high strength. it depends on the manufacturer;
  • retainer blue or blue. medium strength.

There are also purple fixatives with moderate strength and purple compounds with the lowest performance on the market. To subsequently turn the pedal without applying titanic efforts, you should use a blue or blue retainer.