Shift Bike Tight

The main malfunctions of the manual transmission and difficult gear shifting

Manual transmission is a mechanism connecting the engine and the driving wheels of the vehicle (transferring the engine torque to the wheels). The main feature of the manual transmission is that gear changes are completely controlled by the driver.

In this article we will talk about why the gears are not engaged clearly or tightly, the gears are not included at all, etc. We will also consider the main causes of manual transmission malfunctions.

The main causes of poor gear shifting

Among the main reasons, experts identify the following:

  • poorly adjusted manual transmission rocker;
  • clutch drive malfunction (does not completely turn off);
  • defect in the gearbox selection mechanism (defects in gears, bearings and synchronizers);

The first reason why the gears are turned on poorly or the manual transmission lever does not react at all to the driver’s manipulations may be an unregulated rocker. The rocker is a kind of thrust connecting the gear lever with the gearbox (the lever with the gearbox can also be connected by means of cables).

A malfunction in the car’s clutch mechanism can also cause poor gear shifting:

  • the tightness of the clutch hydraulic circuit is broken. As a result, pressing the clutch pedal does not create the required pressure in the hydraulic circuit. Accordingly, the clutch disc is not fully squeezed out, which does not allow engaging the required gear. Leaks are eliminated by replacing the rubber cuffs or by retightening the connecting nuts of the hydraulic circuit.
  • breakage or wear of the clutch release fork. The problem is solved by replacing the plug. If it is not possible to replace the part with a new one, the old fork is restored.
  • runout of the clutch disc (more than 0.5mm) as a result of overheating or a factory defect.
  • breakage of the clutch basket spring petals or their deformation as a result of overheating (manual transmission gears are tightly engaged);
  • failure of the bearing of the input shaft of the manual transmission. Eliminated by replacing the bearing.
  • the stroke of pressing the clutch release fork is not adjusted, the cable connecting the clutch pedal with the fork has broken.

Another reason for not clearly engaging gears may be a malfunction of parts and mechanisms in the gearbox:

  • wear of synchronizers. Excessive wear of synchronizers occurs in those gears that are included more often, namely in the urban cycle these are the first, second and third gears.

What is the result

It is important to understand that a manual transmission is a reliable unit, which normally should not cause discomfort to the driver when driving a vehicle. This means that in the case of complete serviceability of the checkpoint, the work must be clear and balanced.

In this case, it is important to determine not only why the speed on the gearbox does not turn on or the manual transmission gears are tightly engaged, but also to eliminate the cause as soon as possible.

In other words, riding on a faulty gearbox can cause bearings to collapse, etc. As a result, further damage to the components and mechanisms of the manual transmission cannot be avoided, and the cost of repairing the transmission in this case increases significantly.

The reasons for the difficult inclusion of gears on a running engine. Transmission oil and level in the gearbox, wear of synchronizers and gears of the gearbox, clutch.

Car clutch: purpose, types, device, principle of operation. Frequent clutch malfunctions in the vehicle transmission device, signs of malfunctions.

Transmission “Mechanics”: the main pros and cons of this type of gearbox, the principle of operation of a mechanical transmission of a car (manual transmission).

The device and principle of operation of a mechanical transmission. Types of mechanical boxes (two-shaft, three-shaft), features, differences

AMT gearbox: design and operation of a robotic gearbox, types of robot boxes. Advantages and Disadvantages of a Robotic Transmission.

The device and principle of operation of a robotic gearbox. Differences between robotic gearboxes from a torque converter automatic transmission and a CVT variator.

Why the gear shifts poorly on a bicycle

As usual, entry-level bicycles are appropriately equipped with the transmission of the most inexpensive groups. When gears shift poorly and jam, owners of these bikes say what to expect from inexpensive components. Those who have purchased a much more expensive bike are very much surprised when, after a while, they also have problems with shifting.

Nobody wants to say that there is no difference between the top-end and the initial components, just the reasons for the fuzzy operation of the switches do not depend so much on their class as on their state and correct configuration. Why the gear shifts poorly on a bicycle?

Reasons for poor gear shifting

Cables and shirts

The most common cause of poor shifting, especially in inexperienced cyclists, is in dire condition for some bike enthusiasts. Inspect the sections of the cables not hidden by the shirt and click the shifters to expose the hidden part. There should be no scoring or protruding threads on the cables. If they are, then the cables and maybe shirts should be changed immediately.

To inspect the cable completely, you need to unclench the aluminum cap that protects the cable from loosening with pliers and unscrew the bolt that secures the cable to the rear derailleur. Release the jacket from the stops and carefully remove it from the cable. The other end of the cable can be left in the slot in the shifters. When the cable is completely exposed, inspect it again for thread scuffs and abrasions. Wipe it down with a rag with WD-40.

If the shirts are in order, then they can be used further. To clean them of the dirt that has accumulated there, fill them with WD-40, and wiggle there with a rope.

You need to know that cables and shirts are not lubricated, especially with thick greases, otherwise after a while a mixture of grease and dirt will form in the shirts. You can spray it with a light spray lubricant, but it will quickly evaporate and there will be little sense. There are Teflon-coated cables, they slide better, are more expensive, and Teflon in friction areas wears out quickly.

Bent cock

It so happens that when the rear derailleurs are perfectly tuned, the speeds do not switch clearly, even with good condition of the cables and shirts. The reason may be a bent cock during careless transportation of the bike or from a blow. If you have followed all the adjustment procedures and still cannot achieve a clear shift, inspect the cock. If it is crooked, then it must be leveled, but do not overdo it, as aluminum gives microcracks. There are many ways to align it, but that’s in another article.

Rear derailleur play

Inspect the rear derailleur and, where the cable enters, move it with your hand from you, from towards you. Ideally, there should be no backlash at all, but if it is small, then it’s okay, especially on inexpensive groups of transmission components. During operation, this backlash gradually increases, and when switching, there is a delay in the transition to another star, indistinctness, etc.

As a rule, the cause of poor gear shifting is a set of the problems described above. All together, a little bit, they give a negative result, you just need to regularly take care of the bike.

articles on this topic:

Seized bike chain links. It happens that while cycling, you regularly feel that the pedals are jumping or jerking every three or four turns. This suggests that.

Bicycle chain skipping. Chain overshoot causes one of two unrelated phenomena. direct overshoot and spontaneous gear changes. The main thing to solve the problem is to determine what exactly comes from the two cases.

Bicycle chain worn. Take a section of the chain with the number of links in it. 20. Multiplying the number of links by the length of the standard link 12.7 mm, we get the size of the section of the new chain of 20 links, equal to 254 mm. We take a ruler and measure.

If the bike rolls poorly. It so happens that when you get on a bike you feel that it is hard to ride. that this is bad physical shape, a breakdown? But don’t blame yourself right away, the problem can be the most commonplace.

Sprockets and bike chain wear. When a new chain is running with a new sprocket, each of the rollers that are in contact with the tooth experiences more or less the same load. In this case, the load will be distributed between.

Why gear changes are bad

When gears are poorly shifted, driving becomes not only unpleasant, but also unsafe. Let’s look at the main reasons why gear changes are poor or not at all. And since the automatic transmission and manual transmission are too different, we will consider them separately.

If you have a mechanic

Poor gear shifting on a car with manual transmission for three reasons. The first of these is a clutch malfunction when it does not completely disengage (drive). The first sign of this malfunction is that the reverse gear is engaged with a characteristic bang. The rear one reacts to this anomaly more noticeably than other gears, because it is the only one not equipped with a synchronizer.

The second reason is a defect in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox. And, finally, the third. excessive wear of gearbox synchronizers.

There are also several clutch faults in which manual transmission gears are poorly shifted:

  • Airing of the clutch release hydraulic drive or fluid leaking from it. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the failed components of the hydraulic system and pumping it.
  • Worn or broken clutch release fork. Requires replacement or repair of a part.
  • Warping (runout more than 0.5 mm) or too thick a new driven disc.
  • Failure of the basket (thermal deformation of the pressure plate or its distortion).
  • Loss of mobility of the support bearing of the input shaft of the gearbox (at the end of the crankshaft to which the flywheel is attached).
  • Jamming of the clutch disc hub on the gearbox input shaft splines. To eliminate the defect, clean the splines of the hub and the input shaft of the gearbox. It will not hurt to lubricate them with lithol.
  • Too much free play of the clutch release fork. Its value must be checked with the manufacturer, since it differs slightly for different cars. Until you know the value of this parameter for your car, set it from 5 to 8 mm. Too little free travel of the fork is also undesirable, as it leads to clutch slippage and increased wear of the release bearing.

Excessive wear of the synchronizers is mainly in those gears that are switched on more often: these are usually the first, second and third. The rear is not included in this list, since it does not have a synchronizer. When you have poor gear changes, and you assume that the reason for this is the wear of the synchronizers, firstly, you should have difficulties with this only on the go. Secondly, it switches in this case is better if you use double squeeze.

For those who do not know what double squeezing is. To upshift: depress the clutch, engage neutral, release and depress the clutch again, engage gear.

Backlash in the so-called “helicopter” is one of the reasons for the fuzzy engagement of gears

To switch to a lower one: double squeezing must be combined with a gas release, that is, when the clutch pedal is released and the gearbox is in neutral, you need to press and release the accelerator pedal. So they switch gears to an auto box which does not have synchronizers. If the box will shift more easily using a double release, then it is to blame for poor gear shifting, most likely, worn out synchronizers.

Look for a breakdown in it or check if it is correctly adjusted. Don’t even think about clutch and synchromes.

For those with a machine gun

If your car has an automatic transmission. It will not hurt you to know the modes in which your machine can operate:

  • P. For parking and starting the engine. Switching to this mode is possible only after the machine has completely stopped.
  • R. To move back. Switching to this mode is also possible only after stopping the machine and with the brake pedal pressed.
  • N. Neutral. When the engine is completely disconnected from the gearbox.
  • D. Moving forward without restrictions on gear shifting (the most often used operating mode of the automatic gearbox).
  • D3 (S). Low gears for climbing and braking engines on descents.
  • D2. Heavy duty mode (slippery or mountainous road). Gears are not shifted higher than the second, that is, only the first and second gears are included.
  • D1 (L). The movement takes place in only 1 gear, is used on off-road through mud, snow or ice, where you need to drive without gas congestion, as well as to overcome steep climbs.

The automatic transmission has a button on the mode switch lever with the inscription O / D OFF. When it is turned on, the inclusion is prohibited, which increases the transmission of the analogue of the 5th gear of the manual transmission. That is, if your machine has 4 gears for moving forward, then for a more dynamic acceleration it will use only three lower gears.

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The automatic transmission is much more complicated than those found with manual transmissions about a gearbox malfunction, and the chances of repairing it in your garage are small. But despite this, you still need to know something about her at least in order not to harm her by improper operation.

The automatic gearbox is much more demanding on the accuracy of maintaining the oil level in it than the mechanics. It is very harmful to both too low and too high oil levels. Both can lead to serious damage. In both cases, oil foaming occurs. With a lack of oil due to the fact that the oil pump, together with the oil, begins to take in air. If there is an excess of oil, it is foamed by rotating parts, which are then immersed in it. Foamed oil compresses better and has a low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you operate the machine with such oil, the pressure in its control systems will be low. Which will lead to slipping of the clutches and their intense wear. The impaired thermal conductivity will not allow all excess heat to be removed. That, combined with low pressure, will lead to the machine failing and will require serious repair.

Foamed oil has a larger volume. Therefore, checking the oil will indicate a too high level. If you find that the oil level has risen for no apparent reason, you need to turn off the engine and let the oil settle. Then check the level again. If it turns out to be low, you need to safely add the required porium and repeat the check.

How to check the oil level with a dipstick

  • Warm up the oil to operating temperature (for this you need to drive about 15 km).

Select a flat horizontal platform for measurement. Put the car on the handbrake.

  • Move the lever to select the operating mode of the box through all positions, lingering in each from 3 to 5 seconds, until the machine is triggered.
  • Leave the mode selector in position P, and in this position determine the oil level.
  • Without turning off the engine, remove the oil dipstick, wipe it dry and reinsert it into the tube until it stops, then pull it out and read the readings. The upper limit of traces of oil on a dry dipstick should be at the mark marked hot or in an area with intersecting notches.

If the level is insufficient, you can add oil through the tube into which the dipstick is inserted. Do not forget that the automatic transmission is afraid of dirt, so top up only with clean new oil. Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth that does not fall out of threads.

When checking the oil level, pay attention to its appearance. A dark liquid with a burning smell indicates that not everything is in order in the unit. First, try changing the oil and filter in the automatic transmission. The milky color of ATF indicates that coolant has entered the box. The coolant softens and inflates the material from which the clutches are made. Do not hesitate to change such oil, having previously eliminated the cause of the antifreeze entering the box, otherwise the machine will suffer significant damage. Coolant can enter the box due to a leak in the oil section in the radiator of the cooling system. In this case, the emulsion will be observed both in the box and in the engine cooling system.

Gear shifting tightly on the bike. What to do if your bike’s derailleur is broken

Transmission components must be kept in good condition at all times, lubricating the chain in good time, adjusting switches and troubleshooting.

As the kilometers increase on the bike, individual parts wear out, and if maintenance is not performed on time, the part may become unusable altogether. In this article we will look at the most common problem associated with speed derailleurs.

It must be understood that the speed changes only when the chain moves forward. If you jerked the shifter, then you need to rotate the pedal so that the chain spreads from one star to another. If clicking or any other extraneous sounds are emitted when switching, you need to adjust the switching.

The main reasons for inaccurate switching:

  • The transfer cable is torn, stretched, or is on the verge of breaking.
  • The switch itself is broken or the spring in it is worn out.
  • Roller teeth are worn down.
  • Switch needs to be adjusted.
  • The chain or cassette is worn out.
  • There is a lot of dirt in the chain.

Transmission repair stages

Repairs include adjusting the front and rear derailleurs, as well as checking the condition of the cables, chain, cassette and rollers.

  • Unscrew the bolt holding the cable.
  • Disassemble the shifter and remove the cable from it and from the shirts. Shirts are also recommended to be replaced!
  • Clean shirts and put a drop of oil in them for better cable glide.
  • Thread the new cable through the shifter and then into all shirts.
  • Start configuring the switch.
  • Bite off the excess part of the cable and secure the end with a special tip.

Over time, the chain deteriorates. It is recommended to keep several chains in stock and change them every 100 kilometers, because the wear of the chain will deteriorate the cassette. Multiple chains will wear out more slowly and your cassette will last longer. You can determine the state of the chain using a special tool. It is impossible to repair the chain, you just need to replace it if necessary.

If the chain is in good condition, simply remove it, clean and lubricate. Remove excess with a napkin or dry cloth.

Rear derailleur

Make sure the cock is level first. If it is still bent, you can contact the service to straighten it, or try it yourself. You can also simply replace it. For 2016, for roosters are only about 300-900 rubles. Do not even try to tune the derailleur with a bent cock, as the gear adjustment on the bike will fail.!

Some firms produce the so-called cock guard, which is attached to the frame. Do not buy it under any circumstances! A rooster is a consumable component that can and should be replaced if it breaks. When hitting this very protection, the cock will remain intact, but the frame may crack. The frame is harder and more expensive to change.

When you are convinced that the rooster and the rope are in good condition, you can proceed to the actual setting.

Place the chain on the largest chainring in the front and the smallest in the back.

Unscrew the bolt holding the rear transfer cable.

By rotating the bolt marked “H” you need to make sure that the switch rollers lie in the same plane with the desired sprocket.

Then pull the cable slightly and tighten the bolt holding it. Over-tensioning the cable will make the transfer difficult.

Shift the speed to the lowest (i.e. the largest star in the back and smallest in the front).

Rotate screw “L” until the derailleur rollers line up against the large star.

Check if gear changes are good.

If shifting is not correct, use the thumbscrew on the shifter, which changes the cable tension.

Now that you have set up the rear derailleur, you are ready to adjust the front.

Front crossover

It is important to set it up especially accurately, since if the adjustment is not good enough when changing speeds, the chain can fly off or even break. The sequence of your actions will be as follows:

Use the rear shifter to shift to the middle sprocket so that there is no strong chain skew.

Then put the chain in first gear and unscrew the bolt securing the cable.

Use the screw “L” to move the transfer frame so that the distance from the chain to the switch on the left and right matches.

Without too much tension, place the cable and secure with the bolt.

Switch to the biggest star in the front.

Tighten the screw “H” so that the chain is again exactly in the middle of the frame.

Check adjustment results and achieve maximum shifting accuracy with the thumb on the shifter.

If the shifter triggers are too tight, loosen the cable tension.

Switching recommendations

Drive only at speeds that will not cause the chain to tilt too much. For example, you cannot set the speed to 1/8, 1/10, 3/1 (the first number is forward gear, the second is reverse) and so on. For the smallest front chainring, you can turn on 1–4 speeds at the rear, for the middle. 3–7, for the largest. 7. If you nevertheless put an incompatible gear, there will be a risk of chain jamming and spinning, as well as an increase in its wear rate.

On a speed bike, fast gear changes are very important, especially if you are competing. Transmission repairs should be carried out before the race, and then after, as aggressive driving may cause the shift adjustments to go off. If you do full maintenance of your bike at least once a season, then it will serve you for a very long time.!

Why gear shifts poorly on a bike

On entry-level bicycles, the transmission of the cheapest groups is installed, and when the gears start to shift poorly and jam, the owners just shrug their shoulders. what, they say, you can take from cheap rubbish.

A big surprise befalls those who buy a much more expensive bike, and after a while again encounter shifting problems. The point here, of course, is not karma, but the wrong attitude to technology.

I am by no means claiming that there is no difference between starter and top-end components. Of course, the experienced cyclist with eyes closed will distinguish the Shimano Alivio from the XTR in three clicks.

But the reasons for the fuzzy operation of the transmission do not so much depend on the class of the transmission, but on its condition and settings. In this post, I will not talk about how to configure the switches, for this a separate article will be released soon, subscribe, and I will send you a notification about its publication.

Causes of fuzzy operation of gear switches

Cables and shirts. This is the most common problem, especially for beginner cyclists. I just wonder what a terrible condition some cyclists are in.

shift, bike, tight

At the end of the cable, there must be an aluminum cap that protects it from fluffing. With pliers, you can carefully remove it and unscrew the bolt securing the cable to the rear derailleur.

Release the jacket from the stops by carefully removing it from the cable. The cable itself can be left in its slot in the shifter. When he is completely naked, once again inspect for raised threads and scuffs. Spray WD40 on a rag and wipe it thoroughly.

The shirts, if they are in order, can also be used a second time. Fill them with more WD40, and gently rub there with a cable. The task is to drive out all the dirt that has accumulated during the riding period.

Here I ask you to take into account the following thing. cables and shirts do not need lubrication. Never lubricate them with thick greases, such as grease. Literally after a few trips on the ground, you will have a consistency in your shirts, consisting mainly of dirt.

If you need to calm the soul, then spray with Teflon spray, it dries quickly, but leaves a thin gliding layer. Which, however, will be erased after a dozen switches.

One more point. There are Teflon-coated cables, such as Shimano XTR Cable, which cost quite a lot of money. In the days of fetishism, I used only these, because of the sliding cover, the effort on the shifter is slightly less.

Unfortunately, after about a year of active skating, Teflon in places of friction is completely erased. However, these cables have a very big advantage. they come with spout stops, which effectively prevent dirt from getting in.

Returning to shirts, make sure that nowhere are too long, or vice versa, short sections, because of this, there will be increased friction in the bending places, and sooner or later dirt will accumulate there.

The bent cock. If you do not know what this part is, then here you can read a note about a bicycle cock. Sometimes it happens that a seemingly perfectly tuned rear derailleur does not work clearly, despite fresh cables and shirts.

The reason may be that during transportation, the bicycle is clamped somewhere, and the cock bent slightly. If you cannot achieve a clear gear change, then remove the cock and put it on the table.

If it is slightly crooked, then you need to bend it. Do not overdo it, aluminum can give microcracks. How exactly to bend it. I will not advise. I do it in an artisanal way. I put it on the bike and pull it with my hands. Ideally, you need to edit with a special typewriter, which even takes into account the asymmetry of the dropouts.

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Rear derailleur play. Move the rear derailleur towards you and away from you, keeping where the cable goes. Ideally, there should be no backlash at all, but a small free play does not represent anything criminal, especially on the initial transmission groups.

During operation, this backlash tends to increase, and then delays in switching, fuzziness, etc. begin. If everything is in order with the ropes and the rooster, then with fine tuning you can overcome the negative effect of backlash.

Most often, the reason that the bike shifts poorly is a complex of problems. Dirt in shirts, a slightly bent cock, a slight backlash in the switch, poor tuning. all tolerances add up.

over, many Catalans drive like this, and find it normal when the speeds are switched on the principle of three forward, two back. Guys, this is not normal!

Any drivetrain, even the lowest Shimano Tourney, needs to work well. Do not get used to the bad, otherwise even buying an expensive bike, after a season or two you will get the same.

Friends, on my site there is still a lot of useful information about bicycles and travel. I suggest that you receive email notifications about the publication of my new articles, so you will always know that I have written something new. Follow the link please.

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Why gear changes are bad

While poor gear shifting is a major problem for many cyclists, few people give it the attention it deserves. Many do not know what to do and are afraid to ruin everything, or save money on repairs from a qualified mechanic.

Of course, identifying the cause of poor shifting requires some understanding of how the switches work, but if you are not intimidated by words like “shirt”, “adjusting screw” or “free play”, then you can easily cope with this task.

Cable tension and switch limit adjustment

The most obvious and common causes of poor shifting and switch breakage come down to poor setting. Index derailleurs (where you shift into 1st gear with one press of the shift lever) are very demanding on the correct tension of the cable and the inner cleanliness of the shirt. Over time, shirts and cables deteriorate, dirt and dust gets inside and this inevitably leads to a deterioration in the quality of switching.

If the derailleur is reluctant to overdrive the chain, then most likely you should check and tighten the cable. If this happens when downshifting, then the cable must be lowered.

Also, very often problems with switching to the highest and lowest sprocket can be caused by incorrect adjustment of the adjustment screws of the extreme positions.

If all gears are shifted somehow strangely and with varying degrees of success, then perhaps you have incorrectly set the distance from the switch to the stars.

How to fix these 3 problems, we already talked about in the article on setting up the rear derailleur.

Replacing the cable and shirt

Gear shifting depends on the condition of the cables and jackets. If the cables are old and dirty, with unnecessary bends, rusty or simply poor quality, then they most likely interfere with gear shifting smoothly and clearly. Replacing them will be the best solution. Shimano’s Di2 electronic transmissions avoid these problems as there is no cable or shirts.

If your derailleur is set correctly, but still does not work satisfactorily, then most likely you just need to replace the shirt and cable. It is also worth noting that the more “breaks” in the shift cable shirt there are on your bike, the faster the shirt and cable get dirty, and the more often they need to be changed. If possible, always try to tuck the shift cable into a one-piece shirt.

Cables with different coatings (usually gold or black) are often advertised as a panacea for all ills, we do not recommend using them, as this coating periodically falls off and only clogs the shirt, thereby impairing switching. Quality stainless steel cables without any coating will not only save you money, but will also extend the interval until the next change.

The evenness of the “rooster

If the cock on your frame, to which the switch is usually attached, is damaged or bent, then this also negatively affects the quality of gear shifting. You can try to level the “cock” with pliers, but aluminum cocks often burst from this procedure. There are special tools from Park Tool or X-Tools that allow you to level the roosters, but the price you pay will allow you to replace your rooster fifteen times, so leave these tools to the professional mechanics in the workshops.

Chain wear, cleanliness and suitable lubrication

How often do you monitor your chain for wear? The wear of the chain also affects the quality of shifting, so a timely replacement of the chain will not only save your cassette and sprockets from premature replacement, but also improve the quality of gear shifting.!

Even if your chain is not worn out, you may have damaged it while riding. Is there any visible damage or misalignment of the links? Slowly turn the pedal by hand and watch the chain. If some link was damaged and now rotates poorly or the chain has a skew, then in this place it will start jumping on the stars of the cassette.

Don’t let dirt build up on your derailleurs, a clean drivetrain will always perform better. In addition, a dirty transmission not only wears out faster, but also shifts worse. Unlubricated chain also impairs transmission performance, watch out for this! We have already written about proper maintenance, about measuring wear, and about replacing a chain, do not be lazy to read these articles.

Long shirt and long chain

A shirt that is too long will only degrade the shift quality due to the added friction. And if the jacket is too short, the cable tension may change during steering or suspension operation.

A chain that is too short will cause excessive tension on the rear derailleur and difficult operation on the largest chainrings. This has a bad effect not only on shifting, but also on the life of the transmission. And if you have a suspension, then when the suspension is triggered, a chain that is too short can break and damage the transmission. A long chain will rub against the derailleur on the smallest sprockets, which will create additional chain wear, damage the derailleur and affect shifting performance.

Front derailleur position

For many, adjusting the front derailleur is even more wizardry than adjusting the rear. Incorrect front derailleur height is the most common problem. We have already written about how to properly configure the front derailleur. Take a look here.

Wear

It doesn’t matter how well you tune the derailleur, if it’s worn out and loose, the slip bushings in the sprockets have long been worn out, and the tension springs inside have long ceased to tighten anything. The shifters also wear out, and if the gear sprockets can still be replaced, the shifters usually have to be completely replaced. Although this is rare and most often the chain and cassette wear out.

Kinked shirt

Due to the design of the frame, you may have extra flex in your shirt, which creates additional friction and degrades shift quality. Also, due to the bends of the shirt and the cables in these places wear out faster and have to be changed more often.

So try to route your shirts so that there are a minimum of bends in their path and are not bitten by the frame while the suspension is operating.

Chainline

An outlandish overseas word that scares many and is a great topic of controversy among marketers. In short, the chainline is the location of the chainrings relative to the rear. For example, if your cassette has 9 stars, then the less the displacement of the 5th star relative to the plane of the driving sprocket on the connecting rods, the less the chain will bend in the extreme positions and the better the gear changes will be.

The chainline is dependent on the design of the frame and connecting rods. On some crankset models, minimal chainline adjustment is available through spacers that fit on the crank shaft, but often you just have to accept that your chainline is not perfect.

Maybe you’re just switching wrong

After all, even if everything is set up perfectly, there is a possibility that you are shifting gears incorrectly. Manufacturers do not recommend shifting gears under load. Therefore, learn to slightly reduce the pedal load during gear changes and your transmission will thank you.

Setting up bike speed switches

In this article, we’ll take a look at how to set up your bike’s derailleurs. At first glance, speed switches may seem like a complicated mechanism, although they have a rather primitive design.

Gear shifting occurs due to the loosening and tension of the cable that moves the switch. That is, in fact, switches are the simplest mechanical design, and there is nothing difficult to adjust them. The setting always starts with the rear derailleur, except when only one of the bike derailleurs needs to be adjusted.

Rear derailleur setting

Make sure the switch is not bent. If the chain tensioner (tab with two rollers at the bottom of the rear derailleur) is parallel to the cassette sprockets, then everything is fine. If not, then most likely it is not the switch itself that is bent, but the cock. fastening the switch to the frame. It is easy to straighten it by pulling on the derailleur, but do not pull on one chain tensioner! he will bend before the cock straightens, and it is no longer so easy to straighten it.

Getting started with the adjustment. Choose a higher speed at which the chain is on the smallest sprocket in the cassette (the sprocket on the rear wheel). The switch has 2 screws labeled H and L (see picture). Turn the screw H (High) so that the derailleur roller is in line with the smaller star. Now choose the lower speed. the largest cassette. And now turn the screw marked L (Low) until the roller is aligned with the big sprocket.

After that, you need to pull the cable, while the maximum speed should be on the rear derailleur lever. Make sure the cable is firmly in the groove of the fixing bolt (shown as 1 in the picture) and tighten. Fasten the cable with a good stretch. If high gears are poorly engaged (when picking up speed on a bike), loosen the cable tension with the adjuster (indicated by number 2 in the picture). If they are poorly reset (when driving speed decreases), then you need to tighten the cable by unscrewing the tension adjuster. If the bike trim is more expensive, then there is a regulator on the shifter, which allows you to adjust the cable tension on the go.

Now the last adjustment. Place the chain on the front of the smallest sprocket and the rear on the largest sprocket and pedal backwards. Turning the tension screw (in the picture marked with number 3), ensure that the upper roller of the rear derailleur is as close as possible to the star, but does not touch it. This is necessary for the smoothest gear shifting. Now set the maximum speed. there is a large sprocket in front, the smallest sprocket at the back and make sure that the roller does not touch the cassette sprocket even in this position. Cheap switches may not have this adjustment.

Front derailleur setting

The front derailleur is even easier to adjust than the rear derailleur. But it is important that it is properly secured to the bike frame. When the chain is on the largest sprocket, the sprocket to derailleur frame should be 1 to 3 mm. And the frame should be parallel to the stars. If so, then you can start customizing.

Set the speed to minimum. the rear is the largest and the front is the smallest star. Loosen the cable tension and turn the screw marked L (Low (where it is visible in the picture) until there is a millimeter gap between the chain and the derailleur frame. he lay in a special groove near the screw.

Now we set the maximum speed when the front chain is on the largest sprocket, and on the smaller cassette, and we turn the screw marked H (High) so that the gap between the chain and the inner plane of the frame is a millimeter. If, after that, the chain still reluctantly climbs onto a large sprocket, slightly unscrew the screw H.

Now we sit on the bike and try how successful the gearshift settings were. If the chain does not shift well to low speed (smaller chainrings), twist the cable tension adjuster located on the front derailleur coin on the handlebar to loosen the cable tension. When the chain sluggishly climbs onto large sprockets, tighten the cable with the same adjuster.

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Problems

If the chain slips with effort when pedaling, it means that it is stretched and it is time to change it. If you haven’t changed it for a long time, you may also have to change the stars with the cassette. a worn out chain quickly destroys a star.

If some certain speeds do not turn on well, check if the cable runs freely in the shirts and if there are any breaks, as well as places with unbraided cable winding. Shirts with breaks and those in which the cable runs with difficulty must be replaced, as can a damaged cable. The same problem can be caused by a bent cock.

If the switch suddenly stopped working altogether, then the problem is definitely in the cable: either it is badly tightened with the fixing bolt, or it broke.

And another important point. When changing gears, make sure that there is no skewing of the chain, due to its location simultaneously on opposite sprockets of the connecting rod and cassette, as well as on the middle sprocket and extreme sprockets of the cassette. Incorrect circuit arrangement is shown schematically in the picture. Because of this, there is a rapid wear of both the chain and the stars.

In general, setting up your bike‘s gear shifters is quick (30-40 minutes) and effortless.

What to do if your bike’s derailleur is broken

Transmission components must be kept in good condition at all times, lubricating the chain in good time, adjusting switches and troubleshooting.

As the kilometers increase on the bike, individual parts wear out, and if maintenance is not performed on time, the part may become unusable altogether. In this article we will look at the most common problem associated with speed derailleurs.

It must be understood that the speed changes only when the chain moves forward. If you jerked the shifter, then you need to rotate the pedal so that the chain spreads from one star to another. If clicking or any other extraneous sounds are emitted when switching, you need to adjust the switching.

The main reasons for inaccurate switching:

  • The transfer cable is torn, stretched, or is on the verge of breaking.
  • The switch itself is broken or the spring in it is worn out.
  • Roller teeth are worn down.
  • Switch needs to be adjusted.
  • The chain or cassette is worn out.
  • There is a lot of dirt in the chain.

Transmission repair stages

Repairs include adjusting the front and rear derailleurs, as well as checking the condition of the cables, chain, cassette and rollers.

  • Unscrew the bolt holding the cable.
  • Disassemble the shifter and remove the cable from it and from the shirts. Shirts are also recommended to be replaced!
  • Clean shirts and put a drop of oil in them for better cable glide.
  • Thread the new cable through the shifter and then into all shirts.
  • Start configuring the switch.
  • Bite off the excess part of the cable and secure the end with a special tip.

Over time, the chain deteriorates. It is recommended to keep several chains in stock and change them every 100 kilometers, because the wear of the chain will deteriorate the cassette. Multiple chains will wear out more slowly and your cassette will last longer. You can determine the state of the chain using a special tool. It is impossible to repair the chain, you just need to replace it if necessary.

If the chain is in good condition, simply remove it, clean and lubricate. Remove excess with a napkin or dry cloth.

Rear derailleur

Make sure the cock is level first. If it is still bent, you can contact the service to straighten it, or try it yourself. You can also simply replace it. For 2016, for roosters are only about 300-900 rubles. Do not even try to tune the derailleur with a bent cock, as the gear adjustment on the bike will fail.!

Some firms produce the so-called cock guard, which is attached to the frame. Do not buy it under any circumstances! A rooster is a consumable component that can and should be replaced if it breaks. When hitting this very protection, the cock will remain intact, but the frame may crack. The frame is harder and more expensive to change.

When you are convinced that the rooster and the rope are in good condition, you can proceed to the actual setting.

Place the chain on the largest chainring in the front and the smallest in the back.

Unscrew the bolt holding the rear transfer cable.

By rotating the bolt marked “H” you need to make sure that the switch rollers lie in the same plane with the desired sprocket.

Then pull the cable slightly and tighten the bolt holding it. Over-tensioning the cable will make the transfer difficult.

Shift the speed to the lowest (i.e. the largest star in the back and smallest in the front).

Rotate screw “L” until the derailleur rollers line up against the large star.

Check if gear changes are good.

If shifting is not correct, use the thumbscrew on the shifter, which changes the cable tension.

Now that you have set up the rear derailleur, you are ready to adjust the front.

Front crossover

It is important to set it up especially accurately, since if the adjustment is not good enough when changing speeds, the chain can fly off or even break. The sequence of your actions will be as follows:

Use the rear shifter to shift to the middle sprocket so that there is no strong chain skew.

Then put the chain in first gear and unscrew the bolt securing the cable.

Use the screw “L” to move the transfer frame so that the distance from the chain to the switch on the left and right matches.

Without too much tension, place the cable and secure with the bolt.

Switch to the biggest star in the front.

Tighten the screw “H” so that the chain is again exactly in the middle of the frame.

Check adjustment results and achieve maximum shifting accuracy with the thumb on the shifter.

If the shifter triggers are too tight, loosen the cable tension.

Switching recommendations

Drive only at speeds that will not cause the chain to tilt too much. For example, you cannot set the speed to 1/8, 1/10, 3/1 (the first number is forward gear, the second is reverse) and so on. For the smallest front chainring, you can turn on 1–4 speeds at the rear, for the middle. 3–7, for the largest. 7. If you nevertheless put an incompatible gear, there will be a risk of chain jamming and spinning, as well as an increase in its wear rate.

On a speed bike, fast gear changes are very important, especially if you are competing. Transmission repairs should be carried out before the race, and then after, as aggressive driving may cause the shift adjustments to go off. If you do full maintenance of your bike at least once a season, then it will serve you for a very long time.!

Setting the front derailleur

Setting the front derailleur

Adjustment, setting the front derailleur is not difficult if you do everything carefully and consistently, but first you need to set up the rear derailleur, and then proceed to the front.

The whole process can be divided into three stages:

1) Preparation; 2) Adjustment; 3) Checking;

To set up we need:

1) Shaped screwdriver;

4) Key for 9 (in some cases, you need a 4-5 hexagon);

5) Cable and cable jacket (if yours are in poor condition);

The first stage is preparation.

First, check the cable and cable jacket (to do this, loosen the tension cable and take it out of the jacket), make sure that the cable is not unraveled anywhere, the cable jacket is not “wrinkled”. If there are no kinks and unweaving, and the cable still moves tightly in the shirt, clean it from dirt, sand and lubricate.

Next, wash and clean the front derailleur, wipe and dry well, and then lubricate all moving parts.

Twist the thumbscrew, which is located on the shift coins, almost to the very end (leave a couple of turns for adjustment). At this stage of preparation is over.

The second step is setting the front derailleur.

Position the derailleur so that, if you were looking at it from above, the derailleur frame is parallel to the chainrings. (to adjust the height and angle of the switch, loosen the clamping bolt)

In order to adjust the height, set the chain on a large sprocket, the gap between the frame and the large sprocket should be 2-3 mm. The smaller this gap, the better switching

Next, you should adjust the “blockage of the chain” (so that the chain does not fall when switching to lower and higher gears)

If you look at the switch from above, you can see two adjusting screws H.High (high) and L.Low (low). these screws are responsible for adjusting the “chain blockage”.

Place the chain on a small sprocket in the front and a large one in the back.

Begin to rotate the L.Low screw (low) until the chain is as close to the inner plate as possible, but make sure that the chain does not hit the frame when pedaling. Next, pull the cable with pliers and tighten the cable fastening screw.

Now you need to do the same with the H.High screw. We put the chain on the big star in the front and on the small back. Turn the screw H (High) until the chain is as close to the outer plate as possible, but so that when pedaling the chain does not touch the frame.

Now you need to check how the switch works by rotating the pedals (put the bike on a stand or hang the rear wheel), step by step change gears in both directions. If it does not switch well from large to small stars, it is necessary to loosen the cable by rotating the “lamb” on the coins, clockwise, and if it does not rise well from small to large, counterclockwise.

Stage three. checking the front derailleur.

After we have tested the derailleur on weight, we need to do it under load, sit on the bike and drive through the gears. The front derailleur should work smoothly and clearly, the chain should not rub against the frame.

What problems can be when setting the front derailleur?

1) Incompatibility of the front derailleur and system.

It happens that when you replace or install a new switch, you have the wrong switch. In general, they are of three types: with an upper cable pull, with a lower cable pull and universal, and each switch is designed for a specific system and number of teeth. Therefore, when buying a switch, look what you had, and if you don’t know, take it with you for a sample.

2) It is not possible to adjust the front derailleur, the chain constantly rubs against the frame

First, check the parallelism of the switch installation, if everything is ok, check the system, if it is bent, if the sprockets are even, make a couple of pedals and look at them, the stars should not change the axis of rotation.

3) Friction of the chain on the derailleur frame when at a speed of 3-1.

Do not forget about the concept of “chain skew” in the position when the chain is located diagonally it is not recommended to ride. this can lead to chain stretching and damage to the front derailleur.

Also, when changing gears, do not forget to relieve pressure on the pedals.

If you are unable to adjust the front derailleur, do not hesitate to contact us, our bike workshop will be happy to help you.

Video. how to adjust the front derailleur: