Scooter Honda Dio What Kind Of Oil To Fill

Year of release. 1999

  • Universal. 10W-40, 15W-40, 15W-30
  • Winter. 5W-30, 5W-40
  • Summer. 20W-40, 20W-30, 25W-40

API Standard. SJ

  • Type. semi-synthetic, mineral
  • The best firms. ZIK, Lukoil, Lotos, Rosneft, Mannol, G-Energy, Kixx, Valvoline

Year of release. 2000

  • Universal. 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 15W-30
  • Winter. 5W-30, 5W-40
  • Summer. 20W-40, 20W-30, 25W-30, 25W-40

API Standard. SJ

  • Type. semi-synthetic, mineral
  • Top brands. Mobile, Rosneft, Lotus, Mannol

The best engine oil. Does it exist?

Year of release. 1997

  • Universal. 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 15W-30
  • Winter. 5W-30, 5W-40
  • Summer. 20W-40, 25W-30

API Standard. SJ

  • Type. semi-synthetic, mineral
  • The best firms. Mobile, ZIK, Lukoil, Rosneft, Mannol, Valvoline

1st generation

Now let’s look at the choice of oils by type, seasonality and brand. Below are the recommendations for Honda CR-V from 1995 to 2004.

Year of release. 2002

  • Universal. 10W-40, 5W-40
  • Winter. 5W-40, 0W-30
  • Summer. 20W-40, 25W-30, 25W40

API Standard. SH

  • Type. semi-synthetic, mineral
  • The best firms. Mobile, ZIK, Lukoil, Rosneft, Valvoline

Year of release. 2001

  • Universal. 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 15W-30
  • Winter. 5W-30, 5W-40
  • Summer. 20W-40, 20W-30, 25W-30, 25W-40

API Standard. SJ

  • Type. semi-synthetic, mineral
  • The best firms. Mobile, Lotus, Mannol

Year of release. 2004

  • Universal. 10W-40, 5W-40
  • Winter. 0W-30, 5W-40
  • Summer. 20W-40, 25W-40

API Standard. SL

  • View. semi-synthetic
  • The best firms. Mobile, ZIK, Lukoil, Rosneft, Valvoline, Consol.

Second generation, model year 2002-2006

  • The selected oil must meet API SJ or SL parameters
  • Available viscosity characteristics:
  • 0W-20, 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-40. at temperatures at minus 30 degrees and below, as well as at 40 degrees and more;
  • 10W-30, 10W-40. for temperature ranges from minus 20 to 40 degrees and above
  • 15W-40. for temperatures from minus 15 to 40 degrees and above

Changing the engine oil in the engine

Scooter Honda Dio What Kind Of Oil To Fill

. Poured new oil into the engine and control its level

Depending on the design of the canister, pour oil into the neck either directly from the canister itself or through a funnel. The funnel must be clean!

Changing the oil in the gearbox

At the very bottom of the engine on the left side in the direction of travel. we are looking for the drain and filler plug of the gearbox. The filling plug is on the side or top, and the drain is always at the bottom.

Substituting a container under the drain plug, unscrew both plugs.

We are waiting for about ten minutes until the old oil drains from the gearbox.

Wipe dry the drain hole and the plug, apply sealant to the plug and wrap it in its place.

We take the oil. I take a liter canister so it is more profitable and is enough for about 10 replacements. If you don’t change your oil often, buy a special tube of branded scooter gear oil. There is more than enough of it for one replacement and without unnecessary headache download it using a special spout into the filler hole.

For those who prefer to save money, one thing remains: to pump oil into the gearbox in small portions using a conventional syringe. On the second, unfortunately, you DO NOT pour oil into the gearbox, since the filler hole is too small.

Draining the used oil

We put the scooter on the central footboard, if it is crooked, we level it. On the left side in the direction of the scooter‘s movement, at the very bottom of the engine. we are looking for a drain plug, substituting a previously prepared container under the plug and unscrew the drain plug with a head of 17.

While the oil is running down. go to the right side of the scooter. unscrew the control dipstick and the oil filter plug, which is located at the very bottom of the engine.

We put a good head on the cork by 17, turn it off and take it out with all the contents from the engine.

This is the oil filter. Immediately after unscrewing it, while the bottom line is yes. throw all this junk into clean gasoline, chat it there well, and then blow it out and dry it.

After the oil filter plug is removed from the engine. To remove oil residues from the engine with fire. pump the engine several times with a kickstarter.

Then we wait for about five minutes. we wipe the drain holes dry, for greater reliability we apply sealant to the corks and wrap them in their places.

Photo report: changing the oil in the engine and gearbox of the scooter

It would seem, what could be easier? I heard about old oil and poured new oil, but no. There are people who manage to screw up here too.

I will not go far by examples: I had to repair several scooters in which the oil filter was simply clogged with debris. As a result, the oil could not flow through it to the rubbing parts and the engine wedged. To my fair question to the owner: why didn’t I clean the filter when I changed the oil. A typical answer followed, which, frankly speaking, killed “why clean it?” “And what is there a filter?” (.).

Sometimes I get the impression that many scooter owners are competing with each other, which of them is the quickest to ditch their machine. And then they complain at every corner that the “Chinese” are shit a priori.

So, the most common mistake they make when changing engine oil is when, unknowingly or on purpose, DO NOT clean the oil filter.

Look, the owner did not clean the filter of this scooter even once, and at the same time he changed the oil regularly: every 2000 km. As a result, the filter was forgotten and the engine jammed.

The second most common mistake that I have come across is when oil is drained not from the drain plug, but through the filter plug. By and large, this is not critical, but if you drain the oil through the plug, then the oil does NOT come out of the engine completely and when you fill it with fresh it will mix with the old one, which will greatly worsen its performance.

The situation is NOT better with changing the oil in the gearbox. Many owners do NOT even suspect that the scooter has a gearbox and the oil needs to be changed as often as in the engine. That is, every 2000 km of run.

Sometimes you open the gearbox of an old scooter, and instead of oil there is some kind of slurry. What does it say. slurry. There, as at the plant, oil was poured, so no one has changed it there yet.

Just recently I disassembled the gearbox of an old Honda and instead of oil, there was a slurry that looked like dung. The bearings are naturally “taken away”, it’s good that I looked there in time, otherwise the rear wheel would have rolled along with the axle in front of the scooter, and the owner in a ditch.

Look what kind of slurry there is in this gearbox. I won’t be surprised if this is still native, factory oil.

Actually, the oil change itself, in the engine and in the gearbox, consists of two main stages: preparatory and, in fact, the replacement itself.


In order to ensure that the used oil is completely glass from the engine, the engine should be thoroughly warmed up before changing the oil. Or, best of all, start changing the oil immediately after driving 5-10 km.

The second preparatory stage is that we need to prepare a flat area in advance on which the scooter should be installed in the most even position and preparing a suitable container for used oil.

The tools that you will use also play NOT the last role. DO NOT skimp. buy a new head with a crank. You will need only two of them: for 17 and 10 Those who neglect this moment. then pay dearly, and from their own s.

Oil level control

The oil level is checked as follows: pour the first portion of oil into the engine, about 600-700 ml, wait a couple of minutes until the oil spreads evenly over the crankcase, and without twisting, insert the control dipstick all the way into the filler neck, Take it out and look at the level.

The oil level must be within the reference area.

  • If the level is lower, add some oil, wait a couple of minutes and measure.
  • If the oil level is above the norm. Drain it or, what is better, pump it out with a syringe with a tube from the neck.

The control area is marked with red arrows. In my case, the oil level is exactly in the middle of the control area and is indicated by a blue arrow. Ideally, the oil level should be near the upper border of the test area. But this is ideally, but in practice. the average level is quite acceptable and does not affect the reliability and durability of the engine.

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