Replacing Bearings On The Rear Wheel Of A Speed Bike

Padding the cone

This situation is the opposite of the previous one: The flare nuts are tightened too tightly, which causes excessive friction in the bushings and the wheel loses roll. In this case, adjustment of the cones is also required, and all actions are similar to those described above.

The most common problems and how to fix them

If the locknuts of the bushing are not tightened sufficiently, then during the rotation of the wheel, the rear axle beats into the bearings. As a result, cavities appear on the tracks of the cones, and the balls are deformed. If the backlash is NOT removed in time, then chips will form on the cones and the inner surface of the sleeve. In especially advanced cases, the balls can even jump out of the tracks and begin to rotate inside the bushing, grinding down and destroying the hubs, then you will have to replace the entire unit and re-spoke the wheel.

To avoid backlash, it is necessary to correctly adjust the cones. To do this, gradually tighten the flare nut, trying to find a condition in which the wheel rotates freely without beating. When the correct position is found, lock the cone with a locknut. When the cone is locked, it often starts to rotate, and the correct position is lost, so you can clamp the right end of the axis in a vice.

Bicycle hubs and that’s the rear wheel

When choosing a bike, many novice cyclists often look at the rear derailleur, frame, presence or absence of a shock absorber. At the same time, insufficient attention is paid to such an important component as the wheel hub.

Types of bicycle hubs and their components

Bushing body

Typically, the hub body is the wheel hub. It has flanges on which the spokes are attached, and due to the presence of a set of sprockets on the rear wheel, the spokes are slightly shorter on one side. In bushings with loose bearings, the inner surface has tracks along which the balls move.

Back here

The rear of the bicycle is a threaded rod rigidly fixed in dropouts, which does NOT transmit torque, but at the same time carries the main load when the bicycle is moving. It is usually made of steel, titanium or aluminum alloy and is an integral part of the bushing.

Depending on the type of attachment, the axles can be hollow or solid. Hollow ones are used in conjunction with eccentric braces to facilitate wheel mounting and dismounting. Such wasps have more rigidity and less weight.

Another way to fasten the wheel is to fix its axle in the frame stays with special nuts. For a frame with horizontal dropouts, it is more suitable here on nuts because of a more reliable and durable wheel attachment.

Some mountain bikes and cyclocross bikes use a thru axle with a threaded end. These wasps are part of the frame design and are usually supplied with it.

The thickness of the rear axle depends on the type of bike, and its length is determined by the distance between the dropouts of the frame stays. In some models of bushings, the diameter can be changed using special adapters. The following wasps are usually used (the first number is the diameter, and the second is the length):

  • 10×135 mm. used in most modern bicycles;
  • 10×130 mm. fit on Road bikes;
  • 12x150mm. bike wasps for downhill and free ride;
  • 10×170 mm. such wasps are placed on fat bikes;
  • 10x120mm. suitable for high speed track bike.

On bicycles for extreme sports of the High End level, special wasps of increased thickness can be used, which have increased strength.

Bushing classification

There are two types of bushings. front and rear. The front is simpler and NOT subject to the same stresses as the rear, especially if the bike has a shock absorber fork. The rear hub is used to transfer torque from the pedals to the rear wheel, the dynamic characteristics of the bike depend on it, so further we will talk about it.

Bicycle hubs differ in the material they are made of and the interior. They usually consist of an axle, a hub with flanges to which the spokes are attached, and bearings. There are the following types of rear wheel hubs:

  • Ratchet, in which a set of sprockets is combined with a ratchet mechanism into a single whole. Such hubs are often used on bicycles in the lower price segment.
  • Cassette, in which a set of rear sprockets is installed on a special drum using a spline connection.
  • Planetary with internal gear change, in which the gears are located inside the housing of the hub itself. They are heavy and expensive, but reliable and require virtually NO maintenance.

The first two types are most widespread, and planetary ones remain rather exotic, although they are often used in city bikes.

Ratchet hubs are cheaper, but less reliable and outdated, so cassette options are best.

Broken or bent axis

Another frequently occurring problem is axle curvature or violation of its integrity, caused by poor-quality materials used in their manufacture, or by the design features of the bushing itself. Such breakdowns are mainly characteristic of ratchet bushings, since in them the support bearings are too far from the axle attachment point in the dropouts of the frame feathers. As a result, too large a lever appears, and when the load increases, it becomes unusable.

Bearings

An important factor to pay attention to when choosing a bushing is the type of bearings installed in them. The most common type remains bulk ball bearings, but more reliable industrial bearings in cartridges.

In the first case, flare nuts are attached to the axis of the bicycle, which press the balls to the cups, which are structurally part of the body of the hub itself. Units with such bearings are easy to maintain and repair, but they quickly become clogged.

In products with industrial bearings, the balls in the cassette are pressed directly into the hub. They are great for a sports bike as they have more efficiency and better protection from dirt. The second advantage of bushings on industrial bearings is that they do NOT require adjustment of the axial clearance and frequent lubrication, but they are rather difficult to disassemble.

Many cyclists are wondering what are industrial bearings in bicycle assemblies and how they differ from bulk bearings. Which is better and what to give preference to. In addition, almost everyone is faced with cleaning or replacing bicycle hubs. A bearing is a product that is part of a support or stop that supports a shaft, this or another movable structure with a given stiffness. It also gives an easy rotation of mechanisms, ensures the operation of its main units, a clear fixation of SEPARATE parts. This has not spared the technology of bicycle construction. The use of bearings is an integral part of any bicycle. At least for today. So, industrial bearings or bulk?

Industrial bearings

Bulk bearings

They are a set (a certain number) of balls placed inside the wheel hub in a specially bored groove (groove) along which they, while rolling and rolling, create rolling resistance with the least resistance. Unlike industrial bearings, bulk bearings have a lower cost. But, they require timely overhaul (cleaning, lubrication), because. A bulk bearing is less protected than an industrial one, and is susceptible to clogging by dirt and moisture. The brute-force procedure Not so complicated. The most difficult thing in this whole business can be unscrewing the nuts, since they can stick to it thoroughly (before unscrewing it, it is desirable to wet the threads in VD40 or something like that), as well as adjusting the tightening of those same cones. T.K. If you overtighten the cone, then the wheel travel will be heavy, if not, there will be backlash, which will break the bushing and knock it out of order.

In total: an industrial bearing is more expensive, rolling, practically does not require maintenance (if worn out, then only replacement), does not require adjustment. Designed for all riding styles (thanks to robust construction). A bulk bearing is cheaper, it is considered less rolling, requires maintenance, adjustment, less performance. Not suitable for all riding styles (jumping is a heavy load that will break these bearings).

Plain bearings

Simple bearings, which are widely used in those assemblies that do NOT experience heavy loads and shocks and in assemblies where there is no requirement for backlash. The design of such a bearing is a pair of rubbing materials in which the coefficient of friction is low (steel / bronze, metal-polyethylene, and others). Over time, the material, which is softer, wears out and a backlash occurs and the part requires replacement (as a rule, its design provides for replacement). Plain bearings are used in inexpensive pedals and derailleur rollers. Such bearings require regular overhaul and replacement of worn parts.

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Maintenance and replacement of carriage bearings

Periodic cleaning, lubrication and replacement of worn parts will help prevent sudden movement problems on your bike. Signs of a faulty carriage condition:

  • “Clips” in the pedals. difficult rotation or cranking;
  • The connecting rods are loose;
  • Crunches.

To remove the connecting rods and carriage cups, you will need special tools. pullers and an internal hex wrench. The dismantling process is as follows:
1. Turn over and secure the bike.

2. Unscrew the locking nuts with a hollow wrench. You can also use a hammer with a chisel, however, the nuts must be knocked out carefully so as not to damage the connecting rods.

3. Using a puller, twist them off the axis. It will take considerable effort here.

4. Pull the cups out of the glass using a carriage puller. The first is to unscrew the cup from the side opposite to the stars. Then extract here.

5. Remove the bearings, inspect and replace damaged parts.

6. Clean in kerosene, refit and lubricate. When installing, carefully monitor the position: on one side, the bearing is put with balls outward, on the other. inward.

After replacement, cleaning and lubrication, reassemble the carriage in reverse order. After tightening the connecting rods, check their rotation: the lack of effort and cranking means that you need to tighten the cups, and vice versa. IN THESE cases, you will have to repeat the disassembly and adjustment.

Prom bearings are installed immediately, adjustment is NOT required.

Conclusion

So, the bicycle bearing, as we found out, is the most important part in every moving unit. Its good condition, timely maintenance and replacement will ensure good driving performance and travel safety.

Many cyclists are wondering what are industrial bearings in bicycle assemblies and how they differ from bulk bearings. Which is better and what to give preference to. In addition, almost everyone is faced with cleaning or replacing bicycle hubs. A bearing is a product that is part of a support or stop that supports a shaft, this or another movable structure with a given stiffness. It also gives an easy rotation of mechanisms, ensures the operation of its main units, a clear fixation of SEPARATE parts. This has not spared the technology of bicycle construction. The use of bearings is an integral part of any bicycle. At least for today. So, industrial bearings or bulk?

Industrial bearings consist of two rings, rolling elements (balls of various sizes) and a cage (some types of bearings may be without a cage), which separates the rolling elements from each other, holding them at an equal distance and directing their movement. Basically, bearings of this type have an oil seal, either rubber or metal, which protects against the penetration of dust and moisture into the bearing, which makes it very protected and durable. The bearing does not require regular maintenance. Its entire service life can be waste in the factory grease. Backlash on such bearings occurs only with worn bearings. If there is a backlash, change the bearing. Practically NO adjustments are required. The disadvantage when replacing these bearings is pressing in and out of the bearing. This can be done with a hammer and a piece of the required pipe diameter, with the possibility of damaging both the bearing itself and the sleeve. Or contact a service station, where they can easily perform the necessary work on the equipment or with the tool. Unlike bulk, industrial ones are much more expensive. When switching from bulk to industrial, it is necessary to buy the bushing itself. And this is perepitsovka and other costs, both in terms of spare parts and work, if you do not make repairs and replacements yourself. In addition to all of the above, such bearings are distinguished by very good wheel roll, when bulk ones are not always. When installing a prom bearing, it is recommended to remove the oil seal and check the inside of it for sufficient lubrication and lubricate well if necessary. It is best to use graphite grease. If it did NOT turn out to be such, then lithol or other universal thick lubricants, grease.

Bulk bearings are a set (a certain number) of balls placed inside the wheel hub in a specially bored groove (groove) along which they, while rolling and rolling, create rolling resistance with the least resistance. Unlike industrial bearings, bulk bearings have a lower cost. But, they require timely overhaul (cleaning, lubrication), because. The bulk bearing is less protected than an industrial one and is susceptible to clogging by dirt, moisture.

The brute-force procedure Not so complicated. It is necessary to remove the wheel, Unscrew the fixing nuts (at least from one of the sides), Unscrew the cone, which presses the balls to the groove, inside which they move and carefully, and without losing those balls, pull out the one on which the whole thing is wound. Gently (you can use tweezers) to pull them out and clean them. Then clean the cone to remove dirt and grease. After that, grease the same with the same graphite grease in the place (groove) where the balls are to be placed in the future, then grease the cone and screw it back. The most difficult thing in this whole business can be unscrewing the nuts, since they can stick to it thoroughly (before unscrewing it, it is desirable to wet the threads in VD40 or something like that), as well as adjusting the tightening of those same cones. T.K. If you overtighten the cone, then the wheel travel will be heavy, if not, there will be backlash, which will break the bushing and knock it out of order. With timely cleaning and good adjustment, a bulk bearing will work a lot and create a very good roll-forward (according to some information, roll-forward, not worse than industrial ones).

In total: an industrial bearing is more expensive, rolling, practically does not require maintenance (if worn out, then only replacement), does not require adjustment. Designed for all riding styles (thanks to robust construction). A bulk bearing is cheaper, it is considered less rolling, requires maintenance, adjustment, less performance. Not suitable for all riding styles (jumping is a heavy load that will break these bearings).

Such a bushing has been successfully installed on tandem for many years. “Jaguar” Built in 2004.

An article written back in the late 90s, recently found in the archive.
On modern domestic sports and inexpensive mountain bikes, hubs with a screw-on easily removable ratchet are used in the rear wheel. This design allows you to quickly upgrade the bike by replacing the entire sprocket block, since now the market has a large selection of them from different manufacturers at quite affordable and good quality.
Large loads on the drive wheel on velomobiles (and it is not necessarily rear), the need to constantly adjust the resulting backlash and simply the rapid wear of the bushings pushed us to the need to develop a more durable and reliable assembly suitable for manufacturing on our own.
The main requirements are to provide high durability through the use of standard ball bearings and to minimize the need for adjustments during operation at a minimum cost and without the use of expensive and scarce materials and technology. So that all the parts can be made on the most affordable equipment on their own by teenagers. members of the club “Tourism and velomobiles”, Which I was Leading. And the most important thing is that in all connection dimensions they must be similar to the Traditional hubs, and they could be used when modernizing conventional bicycles.
Three options were developed. Structurally, they are all made according to the same scheme. a steel case on both sides are pressed in two bearings with a spacer sleeve between them.
– here it is inserted into the bearings and tightens the whole set with a special nut.
In this case, only one bearing on the ratchet side is fixed in the housing either by punching out at three points, or by gluing it onto the seat. The size of the spacer sleeve provides a floating fit on the other side of the bearing. After assembly, the bushing is immediately ready for use without additional adjustments. A lot of
summer intensive year-round operation of dozens of copies confirmed the high reliability and practicality of the solutions used.
The first two options differ from each other only in the technology of manufacturing the case.
In the first version, the body is turned from a solid metal bar. This option is preferred for one-off production. Material. almost any low-carbon steel from St3 to Steel 45.

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Welding attachment (diagram).

When manufacturing a small batch of about 50. 100 pieces, the welded version of the body is preferable, although this increases the number of technological operations.
Body blank. 36×3 mm pipe. Material. steel 20, steel 30.
– We cut the body blanks from the pipe to a length of 86 mm.
– From sheet steel (the brand does not matter), although Steel 10 is better with a thickness of 2.5 or 3 mm (the thicker the better, in the extreme case 4 mm) we make flange blanks with an inner size of 36 mm and an outer size of 58-60 mm in any convenient way.
– In the fixture we weld the flanges at a distance of 16 and 10 mm from the edge Using spacer rings of the appropriate length between the base and the flange. For pressing, we use three clamps, which we place evenly at 120 degrees. First, we make three tacks with a semiautomatic welding machine (a quarrel with a steel wire in an environment of carbon dioxide). We are waiting for the part to cool completely in the jig and weld the seam completely. When welding with a semiautomatic device, the weld is carburized and self-heated, so that the cutter does not “burn” the bushings during subsequent turning, the bushings must be annealed, heat them to a dark cherry color and slowly cool them in air. If there is a gas quarrel at hand, after tacking, the flanges can be soldered with hard solder, which will better fill all the gaps and are processed softer on a lathe.
– We do fully turning according to the drawing. I control the thread with the ratchet that we will use. Domestic and imported ratchets differ slightly in thread completeness. It is not necessary to make a tight fit under the bearing, otherwise the outer ring of the bearing will be crimped and the bearing will rotate tightly.
– marking the holes for the knitting needles on the flanges, Kern them and drills with a drill with a diameter of 2.6 mm, with a drill of a larger diameter, we remove burrs on both sides of the drilled holes. When marking, it is convenient to use a primitive template or a jig with marked holes, cut from thick cardboard. So
In this way, you can make hubs with any number of spokes, for example 32. to use a rim from the front wheel, or 28. from a bicycle “schoolboy”.
– The coverage depends on the possibilities. that’s chrome in the coloring.
– The dimensions of the Special nuts are summarized in a separate table.
The variant with a welded body is interesting because when using bearings of the 60102 type with an internal bore of 15 mm, an interesting suspension with a cantilever wheel mount can be made. It was used on a bicycle, published on the second cover page in “M-K” number 6 for 1996. By the way, the bike has no breakdowns on the move to this day.
Oil MC1000 or Litol-24 type greases is used as a lubricant.
Correctly assembled wheel, without rubber, with a slight jolt should make from 150 to 200 revolutions.
The welded hub for the front wheel is manufactured in exactly the same way. On bearings like 60201. for a bicycle and 60102. on a Velomobile.

The third option is the most unexpected. The smallest bearing is installed in the most loaded place of the structure. But the design has proven its manufacturability and reliability during long-term operation.
Billet. a spent body from the rear wheel hub of a road bike type “Torpedo” (a big plus. there are already all the holes for the spokes and a minus. you cannot use the standard plastic protection for the spokes from mountain bikes. It is placed only on a hub with a flange diameter of 55 mm). Housing
from the sprocket side, it is turned flush with the spokes flange. On this side, insert the part pos. 7 (according to the assembly drawing) and solder it with hard solder. Further turning according to the drawing.
There is a 14 mm collar on the rear wheel axle. not for the bearing stop! The distance sleeve rests on it. Installation begins with bearing 60101, which is secured in place by punching out from the end at three points. Then we insert it into the assembly with a podnipnik 60202 and a spacer sleeve and tighten it with a nut.

Wheel axle drawing.

Aluminum body is bored,
a steel sleeve is pressed into it with a slight tension and bored “outright” under the bearing seat.

Bushing assembly.

Cantilever drive wheel.
Used on a full suspension bike with cantilever wheels:

Identical bodies are used either as a hub for a regular bike.

Or under cantilever wasps, under trailers, velomobiles, etc.

Wheels with such hubs were initially installed on the winter version of the velomobiles “Cherry”

And now, after replacing the axles, they stand on the LIGERAD “Archimedes”.

Replacement of bulk bearings for industrial bearings in a bicycle. Types of bicycle bearings

By the type of construction, parts are divided into two types: rolling and sliding.

Rolling bearings are two mating parts with grooves, into which rolling bodies are inserted. balls. Their even distribution helps to minimize friction in the assembly and, accordingly, to extend the life of the entire bearing. The fixation of the position of the balls is provided by special partitions. separators. Simple parts without baffles will require more frequent adjustments.

They are used on a bicycle in moving units where high resistance to abrasion and pressure loads is required and slip is not allowed. steering column, bushings, carriage. Can be installed in complex mechanisms. shock absorber hinges and switch rollers.

Plain bearings are ballless parts. They are two elements, which rotate tangentially to each other. Materials for manufacturing. bronze, steel alloys, metal plastics and everything that has a low coefficient of friction.

Compared to a rolling bearing, they are less resistant to abrasion, since the two parts interact directly with each other. Wear provokes the appearance of a gap, which causes backlash. Because of this, periodic replacement of the entire assembly or worn out components, as well as adjustment.

Rolling bearings on bicycles are divided into two types: cone-cup and industrial.

The first. bulk bearings. open type parts. They are represented by a cup in which balls are distributed along the grooves, fixed with a cone nut. The body is pressed directly into the part itself. the steering column or the bottom bracket.

Prom bearings are closed parts, completely inserted into the movable unit. This is their fundamental difference from bulk. The system is protected from moisture and dirt penetration, resulting in a longer service life compared to cone-cup designs.

Advantages of loose-type rolling bearings:

  • Easy to remove and install;
  • Can be adjusted in the field;
  • Let’s change the components separately.

Disadvantages include frequent adjustment and the need to clean up trapped dust and dirt.

Prom bearings do NOT require adjustment, lubrication or cleaning. The location of the balls, the amount of lubricant in the closed housing remain unchanged. Water and abrasive gets inside the cartridge.

However, if the bearing is worn out, it will need to be replaced entirely. Far from civilization, this is problematic. The price of “speeches” is significantly higher compared to the cost of bulk.

Ceramic and ceramic-metal bearings should be noted separately. They are completely or partially made of ceramics, due to which their corrosion resistance is higher in comparison with their metal counterparts. In addition, they are better able to withstand temperature changes. Parts of this type are installed on high-end bicycles.

Replacing Bearings On The Rear Wheel Of A Speed Bike

The installation of the fork is carried out in the opposite order: after pressing in the bearing, the glass is twisted, then the club and the lock nut are thrown. Checking the tightness of the glass: when tilting the bike, the front wheel should deviate from the straight position by 15. 20 degrees. If it practically does NOT move, loosen the hinge. A large deflection of the wheel indicates a weak tightening, and the glass needs to be tightened.

Replacing bearings in the carriage

The most prone to damage is the crank and pedal assembly. It is called a carriage, and the bearings, which are located in it, can accommodate pedal rotations if they cease to meet the requirements.

The carriage of a bicycle can be open or closed; the operation of the bearings depends on its type. For example, the open one rotates thanks to the bearings in the cups installed in the bottom bracket and built into the frame tube. This is a complex unit, since it is subject to external influences more than other parts of the bicycle, which means that they need to be changed often. The carriage cup can have different sizes and threads depending on the type and model of the bike.

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In closed carriages, the bearings are protected, so dirt from the street cannot spoil them.

Disassembly and assembly of the carriage

Sometimes you have to disassemble the open carriage in order to clean it, lubricate it and change the bearings in the bike. This is due to contamination of the cartridge, as well as due to its wear, which can become a prerequisite for accidents while riding a bicycle.

To replace the cartridge, you need to bring the bike upside down and remove the cranks. Start with the nuts, unscrew them with a wrench and fold them neatly in one place. Do not push hard or use tools that could damage the bike, even if the nuts are tightened tightly. You need to act gradually and carefully. To remove the connecting rods, squeezes and a puller are used. A special puller is also used to remove the carriage, but it must be removed strictly from the left side, away from the stars of the connecting rods.

Then you need to clean the carriage glass, in the future this will save the bearings from the harmful effects of dust and moisture. Next, get down to the cups, they need to be pulled out, using the keys inserted into the grooves of the carriage, and then get the bearings and replace them. Assemble the knot in the same way as you took it apart.

After assembly, check that the assembly is functioning normally, that the connecting rods rotate without effort, but that it is not misaligned. If problems arise, you need to disassemble everything again to exclude the possibility of a serious error.

Bearing types

Bearings are support devices for the moving parts of a bicycle. They hold the parts in place and help the mechanism to function properly, thanks to which, for example, the pedals rotate smoothly. The rest of the components of the bicycle structure work in the same way.

Since bearings on a bicycle can be in different places, the principle of their operation is different, which means that before changing them, you need to know what types of this product are. They are divided into three types:

  • Ceramic;
  • Plain bearings;
  • Rolling bearings.

Let’s dwell on the extreme option. In total, two types of rolling bearings are used for a bicycle: a cone-cup (or bulk) and non-separable, which are called “cartridge”.

Bulk consists of a set of balls and a cup built into the bike. Cartridge are two rings with balls. They do NOT need to be adjusted, as such bearings just need to be changed if the need arises.

How to change bearings on a bicycle

All decent bicycles must have quality bearings. They are located in several nodes and may differ from each other. So, some of them are for plugs, others. For pedals, so both the carriage and the wheel can be disassembled. To prevent the products from deteriorating ahead of time, you need to regularly lubricate them, as well as replace them. Moreover, install exactly the bearings that are needed in this unit.

It is important to pay attention to quality, appearance and other characteristics. If you make a mistake, the device cannot be installed, the entire bike may break down, and this is a direct threat not only to the vehicle, but also to your safety.

Replacing the bearings in the front fork

Loose bearings look like balls moving in wheel hubs. They roll along the grooves and create resistance. The number of such balls is always certain, therefore, during their replacement, it is important NOT to lose a single one, and also to change the entire set if at least one of them has worn out ahead of time. If you don’t know how to change bearings on a bicycle but would like to do it yourself, take note of the following advice:

  • Remove the wheel;
  • Unscrew the tail screw;
  • Disconnect the washer;
  • Unscrew the top cup.

You will find balls under the cup. Be careful that they DO NOT crumble during the process. There will be no problem if your bike has a cup with a separator.

After carefully pouring them out of the cups into the glass so as not to get lost, remove the plug. The cups should be rinsed well to remove dirt, just like the balls. Be sure to dry them or wipe them dry, as moisture affects the device negatively. The balls may rust or deform and will need to be replaced. You cannot use them even if only one is damaged. In this case, you will need to replace everything with new ones. For cups Use grease, fry the same way and here. Only then reassemble the structure in exactly the same way as it was disassembled.

How to change the bearing

When replacing the rear wheel bearings, first of all, prepare the workplace. For this, the carriage is removed from the wasp, while the receiver and the whip are used.

With proper dismantling, all parts are copied into a table so that after the end of the work there are NO “extra”.

  • The screws are loosened, taken out here;
  • The hull is cleaned with a cloth soaked in kerosene or “White Spirit”
  • Grease is introduced into the channel where the elements are located;
  • By removing the ratchet ring, the bearings are installed.
  • When making one side of the sleeve, the core is installed again in the cage, then fixed.
  • Testing in progress.

We install the bearings where the ratchet is. It is important to correctly adjust the load, the cone is fixed with a lock nut, which is located in the ratchet itself.

Replacing bulk with industrial

Industrial bearings have tapered bushings, they DO NOT require adjustment and are protected from contamination. They are difficult to mount, in field conditions it is difficult to repair a rear wheel with such bearings.

Loose bearings are still common and in high demand. Their advantage is ease of maintenance and economic benefits. They are placed in any conditions within a few minutes. Lack of loose bearings: quickly get dirty.

More about replacement

The rear wheel of the bike is under significant stress.

  • Slides. It works by rotating the two parts of each other. Made of refractory alloys, the design is simple and reliable.
  • Rolling. They consist of metal balls (rolling elements), they are assembled between two steel rings. There are two types of such devices: bulk, industrial.

Here the hubs on the rear wheel can be fixed to the frame. The spokes extending from it are connected to the rim, thanks to the bearings they rotate the wheel.

Hubs with a brake block at the base have bearings, there is a brake mechanism inside.

The most common bushings with a built-in brake, in childhood we rode on such bicycles, the device stops using pressure on the pedal in the opposite direction.

In the second cases

Bearing performance also depends on the bicycle bottom bracket (open or closed), which is subjected to significant mechanical stress. Installing bearings in a bicycle bottom bracket is a complicated operation. The open carriage functions thanks to the bearings, which are based in the “cups”, they are mounted in the carriage sleeve and installed in the frame tube.

Step by step instructions

There are different reasons for bushing and bearing breakage. Repair work can be done by hand, the stages are as follows:

  • With the help of an adjustable wrench, the lock nut is loosened;
  • The flare nut is loosened;
  • The wheel is removed;
  • Retaining ring is removed;
  • Bushings are dismantled here
  • The elements are dismantled, which are located on the opposite side of the sprockets;
  • All elements are tested;
  • Broken part changes;
  • The block is fully assembled.

What to change

Bicycle hubs usually work with tapered radial rolling bearing.

The best bearings come from Shimano, they make products that are of good quality and are easy to repair due to easy access. Also, a distinctive quality of bearings of this company is the ability to fix without the presence of flanges.

Products from manufacturers are quoted among cyclists:

  • Deore lx.
  • Alivio.
  • Novatec

How to change the bearing. depends on the design, you should carefully read the instructions from the manufacturer.

Possible problems and ways to solve them

The main bearing problem can be:

  • Lack of lubrication;
  • Mechanical wear of elements;
  • Destruction from high loads.

All such breakdowns are resolved by replacing the corresponding parts.

Replacing the rear wheel bearing of a bicycle is an important operation. A bearing is one of the basic parts in any mechanism. Including in a bicycle. This element fixes the wheel and at the same time allows it to rotate freely. There are several types of bearings, each of which has its own undeniable advantages and disadvantages.