How to brake correctly: front or rear brake
A quick note on braking. It’s very strange that even regular cyclists don’t know how to brake properly. When I hear someone advising a beginner to release the front brake or just not use it, because you can tumble over the steering wheel, then I feel like tearing and throwing.
The basis of active safety in cycling is braking. Friends, if anyone did not know or doubted, remember: the main brake on any wheeled vehicle is the front one! This is especially true for two-wheeled vehicles. We, unlike cars, have a very small contact area of the wheel with the road, and to stop quickly, there is not enough brake force.
When braking, most of the weight is borne by the front wheel, while the rear is relieved progressively. What happens if we apply one rear brake when we need to stop abruptly? That’s right. the rear wheel will lock and the bike will slide further. Precisely because the rear wheel is unloaded at this moment. The second problem arising from the low load on the rear wheel is the extremely small braking force range. That is, you gently press the handle, but there is almost no deceleration, you press harder, and the wheel has already started to skid.
Therefore, the main brake on the bicycle is the front one; during emergency stops, three-quarters of the work falls on it. Learn to dose the braking force on the front wheel, since there is a really huge range between on / off. The rear brake is used only to stabilize the trajectory of movement, also try not to brake with it until it locks, except in special cases, such as a maneuver or slowly sliding off a steep slope.
Get used to dynamic driving. Even at a walking pace, do not sit on the saddle like a sack of potatoes: tilt the bike when cornering, stand up when braking and shift your weight back. Train an emergency stop and descent from the mountain. The faster you need to stop, the further the body is carried out behind the seat, and the same is true on steep descents. In special cases, you have to hang the fifth point above the rear wheel, and the seat is somewhere near the chest.
This position allows not only to carry the weight back as much as possible, load both axles of the bike more evenly, but also to rest firmly on the pedals, lifting the socks up. Thus, you can brake as hard and intensively as possible, the center of gravity shifted backward will prevent the bike from overturning. I note that the ability to use both brakes is extremely important not only for athletes on races, but also for the most ordinary Catalans on bike paths.
A child running out, a car driving into the yard, or just a rushing dog makes us make the only right decision in a matter of a fraction of a second. Squeeze both handles with all your might. you will be thrown over the handlebars, squeeze the rear brake. the bike will skid, almost without losing speed. Only a practiced reflex, knowledge of the limits of inhibition, the ability to control your body will help you to sharply throw off speed and turn to the side, do with a slight fright and go further, instead of very severe consequences.
The only exceptions when I advise you to release the front brake applies to young children and very old people. This category of cyclists do not have sufficient reflexes to handle braking control. With a very high probability, they will somersault over the steering wheel if you have to urgently stop.
Another question is whether the front brake should be on the right or on the left. Traditionally, in countries with right-hand traffic, the front brake is located on the left, and where there is left-hand traffic, vice versa. I, as a beginner in my adult life to ride a bike in Scotland, got used to the fact that the main brake is under my right hand.
It seems to me very logical: a right-handed person has more fine motor skills in his right hand, and it is more convenient to dose the braking force on the handle with it. In fact, this is just a matter of habit, if a person began to ride a bicycle, where the front brake is on the left, then most likely it is more convenient for him.
Hopefully my beginner cyclist readers understand how important it is to learn how to brake properly. Train yourself and teach children. good habits need to be instilled from a young age.
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On a steep descent
Going down the hill, you must remember that the role of the rear brake increases, because the front wheel can break with heavy braking (I am not even talking about what you can be thrown over the steering wheel). Therefore, you need to shift your weight back and smoothly, but firmly press the rear brake lever, gradually connecting in front.
On a flat road
At the moment of the beginning of braking, the rear of the bicycle is unloaded, the center of mass is displaced forward, and when using one front brake, everything that remains behind the axis of the front wheel, under the action of inertia, tends to rotate around this center of mass. In simple terms, the “butt” wants to overtake the front. the rear wheel of the bike tends to go now to the right, then to the left, turning the bike across the road.
Rear brake is important too, especially on mountain bikes
The only thing that keeps the rear wheel from this behavior is friction. the more slippery the road, the higher the speed and the more intense the braking, the more likely the rear wheel will become unstable when decelerating. Ideally, when the road is absolutely flat, the movement is straight, and the grip is maximum, we will not even notice the absence of a rear brake.
Now let’s see what happens if we connect smooth backward braking to the intensively braking front. The rear wheel, having received a deceleration impulse, will seem to be pulled up from behind by an invisible rope that keeps the bike from yawing.
If you press the rear brake harder, then the wheel will block, and it, having lost grip with the road, will begin to rotate around the center of mass, leading the bike into a skid. You can stop this by immediately releasing the rear brake and immediately applying it to stabilize the rear of the bike.
A little about the benefits of the rear brake
Since my articles are aimed at novice cyclists, on the pages of the site I constantly struggle with the extremely wrong opinion among newbies that the front brake on a bicycle is extremely dangerous and in order not to roll over the handlebar, it is better not to use it at all.
And I, as you can see, in the process of convincing about the importance of the front brake, I somewhat. hmm. overdid it, because some readers understood this to mean that I urge you to abandon the rear brake altogether.
I hope that no one will dispute the postulate “The main brake on the bike is front” (if in doubt, please read it). However, to be clear, it is necessary to talk a little about the contribution that the rear brake makes to the overall braking system.
While the front brake does act as the primary brake on the bike, the rear brake adds at least a third of the braking force to the total stopping contribution. Accurately working with both brakes, you will decelerate much faster.
Learn to feel the brakes
On steep descents, braking is a kind of art to find the edge of the wheel lock, both rear and front, and the worse the grip, the more important it is.
It is unlikely that any recommendations can be given here, except for the development of reflexes and the acquisition of flair. But for example, I can advise such a technique when braking backwards on a descent. try to brake impulsively: quickly squeeze all the way and release the handle, this will allow you to determine the blocking edge by wheel micro drifts, in the process you will understand how hard you need to press the brake so as not to block the wheel but constantly be on the edge.
With the front brake, in principle, you can also train in a similar way, but it is better not to approach the wheel blocking itself, but to stop in the effort on the handle when the deceleration has become quite intense.
Rear brake is just as important as front
This is the conclusion I draw at the end of this post. If the bike were equipped with only a front brake, it would be an extremely limited system, unable to effectively decelerate in less than ideal conditions.
In situations with slippery slopes, turns on loose soil and other off-road conditions, using one front brake will make riding very dangerous. Therefore, I recommend that you learn how to use both the rear and the front sufficiently to feel that the bike is completely controlled by you in all conditions.
It is possible that I forgot to mention something again, perhaps the readers will supplement me in the comments.
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Once, after reading articles, I began to prove that the front brake is the main one and they need to brake more often (but at that time I had very little experience of using it). I met with strong disagreement from the interlocutor. Then, as I bought myself a bicycle, already with several gears and rim brakes, I began to actively use the front one (although the rim was slightly bent (not by me, it was not new), so there were sharp jumps in speed when braking), but again the reason That was not advice, but the fact that the rear pads made a very loud and unpleasant sound (then disappeared). Now I use the rear brake more, mostly not even for slowing down on a straight line, but for entering corners, because the direction has already been set, then small drift does not harm, especially the roads are mainly from the ground. And the front in such cases, and even with my rim, which can lead to a fall, due to the inability to accurately predict its behavior, is not very convenient.
… In short, I talked more about breakdowns than about business. But my idea is that there is a different method for each case: on a flat road and if you do not turn, it is better to use 2 brakes at once, for the fastest deceleration (mb and pads will last longer), if you go downhill. more rear, but mostly which wheel is on a more secure surface. Up the mountain. front, there will not be a coup here unambiguously.
I would also advise you to learn not to fall in a skid, I personally know how, although I did not study. When I was descending the mountain 3 meters each side I slowed down when I knew that I would not be able to enter the turn)
The article is very relevant, the other day I flew off the road while descending in a smooth turn. He kept both brakes smoothly, but apparently he squeezed the rear one, or ran over a pebble. As a result, at a speed of about 55-60 km / h, loss of grip of the rear wheel, skidding, hitting the rear wheel against the bump stop, and my flight along with the bike through the bumper into thorns for several meters. Thank God I got off easy, just a few stitches.
Good article with tons of useful tips. However, I will also put my coins into a common piggy bank of experience and knowledge. There is no main (main) brake. When braking, you need to use both the front and rear together. But vary the effort to the front or back or evenly depending on the situation. Some basic situations are covered in this article.
You can also read and know a lot, but nothing replaces practice. Practice and be careful! There is a limit to self-confidence when cycling. When, after some long time of riding, you feel complete merging with the iron horse and it seems to you that you can do anything. Then discouragement sets in. Sometimes bitter, sometimes painful, sometimes fatal.
Kotovsky: maybe the next article should be devoted to the issue of confidence and self-confidence?
P.S. Khokhlov congratulations on winning Eurovision! From all the pure Moscow heart! :))
Hi everyone! At one time, my father worked for many years on the well-known Colchis, who does not know this is such a tractor of the Kutaisi plant, in large vehicle fleets, guilty drivers were transplanted onto them. This is such a stupid turtle with a semi-trailer, on which it is one torment to ride, because it simply does not ride. So he explained to me that on such cars the brake system is designed in such a way that when you press the brake, the wheels on the semi-trailer first start to brake, then the rear wheels of the car join, and then the front wheels start to brake. So I think this procedure should be applied when cycling.
“Now let’s see what happens if we connect smooth backward braking to the intensively braking front.”
Forward the backside will not go away anyway, it can only go to the side. The lateral component of the friction force keeps us from going sideways. If we add a brake, then it will decrease (part of it will go to the longitudinal one). And the likelihood of skidding will increase.
I am not saying that the back should not be used, I am only pointing out the incorrectness of the reasoning.
“Going down the hill, one must remember that the role of the rear brake increases, because the front wheel can break with heavy braking.”
The role of the rear brake is reduced. The weight is shifted forward, and the rear becomes even less loaded. And as we know, he is already lightly loaded when braking.
Namesake, this work of the braking system not only on Kolkhida, but on all tractors with trailers and semi-trailers, because this allows you to avoid folding the road train, in the common people. scissors. Especially true in winter. Now the truth is responsible for all electronic security systems.
And if according to the subject, then you need to use both brakes, clearly controlling the edge of adhesion to the road
About brakes and wheel grip, incl. and in the turn it is very clearly shown and told in one video on YouTube about the friction circle:
A video about driving a motorcycle, but everything that has been said and shown on a bicycle also applies, I highly recommend that you familiarize yourself with this information.
I always brake simultaneously front and rear, adjusting the degree of depression depending on the situation, like ABS on a car. on the verge of blocking. Using only the rear is not effective. Only the front is dangerous to health.
On my “horse” on the right, the rear brake, I brake gently with two at once, and due to the better reflex of the right hand, the rear brake starts to work a little earlier with the automatic machine. it turns out well both uphill and downhill, and on a slippery road, and during emergency braking.
I also brake smoothly with two brakes at the same time, if from a mountain. then I smoothly shift my weight back so as not to fly over the steering wheel. Once there was a curiosity when I was driving from a long descent, the rear wheel flattened (the glass broke through), but everything turned out well, although it was very difficult to brake, good, even though the tire was new, otherwise it is not clear what the consequences could be.
Soft Brake Pedal Fix and Bleeding Brakes
Smart, good, good material. As it turns out, everything is complicated and ambiguous. I have been driving for 3 days, before there was no practice for 7 years, I brake at random, but here. yeshkin light, methods! Thanks to the author. A plus.
The role of the rear brake is reduced. The weight is shifted forward, and the rear becomes even less loaded. And as we know, he is already lightly loaded when braking
This is true in theory, but it also increases the importance of the rear brake:
since the weight is shifted forward and the rear is unloaded, the role of the front brake as a brake becomes “too great”, which increases the chance of locking the front wheel and flying out through the handlebars.
That is why the author proposes to transfer weight to the rear wheel and use the rear brake.
It is necessary to brake with all 2, not with sharp jerks, as on a car without abs.
If you brake with the front one with the same force that you can brake with the rear one, then it is far from turning over the steering wheel. If you brake with greater force, then the rear can no longer give such a deceleration.
With the most effective braking, the role of the rear brake on the descent is zero.
Although, with not maximum effective braking, it is easier to brake with both of them than with one. But this does not mean that the role of the rear is increasing. It’s always easier this way.
I totally agree. I only use both at the same time. The rear is a little behind the saddle, sometimes a lot, the pedals are parallel to the ground, it is easier to move the weight backward (I have a KK, I don’t know if this applies to the steering wheel and the landing of the highway). First, I grab the front lightly, immediately quickly but smoothly build up the rear one to noticeable braking and then vary it with the front one. If it’s an emergency, then I don’t just lean back, but practically sit on the rear wheel. Of course I haven’t tried it at 50-60, I’m not so cool but at 35-40 it works quite well, there is nothing to say about less.
Braking with locking and skidding of the rear wheel. well, who did not indulge in this in childhood. But I think it is effective only on loose steep descents, where blocking is almost inevitable, then a series of skids can slow down better than in a straight line. The wheel is just like a bulldozer rowing the ground sideways and gives more energy to it, since there is more “raking” area sideways.
PS: And Nozgot is probably right. The topic of self-confidence, and in general, the line between complete control of the situation and the illusion of control, is very interesting.
straight, ABS begs.
How manufacturers have not yet thought of.;. /
gabrik. just not, the more the wheel is loaded, the more difficult it is to block it.
… And I save the rear brake, because I have it in the planetary hub, and I have no idea how to change it there when it ends.
Correct me if I am too complex.
Well, finally, it’s fresh from the guru.
My motto is simple. using two brakes to dose the force depending on the terrain and speed.
P.S. Perhaps not in the subject, but a question has long been asked to the Guru and to the team. Tubeless Tire Selection… An article on tube selection has been written and discussed for a long time. And what about tubeless ones. After all, most smoothly transition from rim brakes to disc brakes.
From tube tires to tubeless.
I will look forward to a separate article from Kotovsky and a lively discussion of cycling laps.
Here’s a new topic!) It was interesting to read, on my horse a vibrake on the front wheel, rear drum foot brake. And constructively, the custom one was not capable of reaching a speed of even 25 km / h on a straight line, the calculation for the transmission shows that the limit is 22 km / h, so the rear, the front is enough, for reinsurance in the event of a chain flying off, I do not like vibrake for abrasion of the rim, over time I will replace it with a non-standard solution =)
I remember on a scooter I had a cool thing, combined brakes, when you press one lever, both wheels were braked with different forces on the front and rear wheels, the system worked very efficiently in different conditions. Interestingly for bicycles there is something similar?
Mikhail I think not.
1) such a system requires more than 1 brake cylinder per wheel.
2) The weight distribution is not the same. Only if the front is made purely front, and the rear brake handle is combined. If the front is made combined, then with sharp braking there will be a constant rear block.
Alexey. actually on the scooter it was implemented, the front one was separate, and the rear one was combined with the front one. I think technically this is not too difficult to implement on a bicycle, if all-wheel drive transmissions do on a bicycle then what to say about brakes, by the way, it’s a good idea for a business, after all, no one has implemented it, and the main one is useful and it is easy to convince people that they need it, many of them safety think!
The skid of the rear wheel sometimes helps to fit into a corner if you overdid it with speed. But it takes skill, of course.
I always use both brakes, as this distributes the forces to the rim brakes, which means less wear on each rim.
And I only use the front brake, because I drive light, without steep descents and special speeds (max. 30 km / h). It is very convenient for them to smoothly reduce the speed, tk. my rear wheel immediately blocks for some reason. But I use the rear brake, like Anatoly, as a “bell”. people hear the tire and let me pass
In general, there is nowhere without experience, and its presence or absence can only be affected by the number of kilometers driven.
Senor Kotovsky, I wish you simple human happiness and I hasten to say that reading this site is very, very pleasant! I drive a mountain and have a desire to buy a highway, but I have no desire to correct 8s. Question: if I take it with a disc, will it be possible to avoid the twisting of the spokes? ZY Weight after losing weight 107.
Michael. Technically, this is a doubling of the weight of the front caliper.
With all-wheel drive, the same bullshit. It can be done, but the cons outweigh the pros in normal use. Considering that the series will be small and the price will bite. Even ABS is technically possible to implement, but who needs it at such a price?
I still adjust the stroke of the levers differently for the front and rear brakes.
On asphalt, I almost always use the front brake only. On rough terrain, almost always only the rear.
10 years of cycling.
And someone can tell you how to enter a turn at speed / descent by vidos on YouTube, you need the rear wheel to skid and the front wheel to keep the course.
I found a sharp turn on the descent, I just can’t handle it without falling / almost falling.
Plus Eugene; about flat areas. everything is clear, smoothly / sharply with both brakes. Slopes. half of the priests for the saddle / the whole ass (we learn from DHashniki). And if you don’t pedal, the led will stop by itself. The question is experience. Today. a heavy backpack, tomorrow. a loaded trunk, the day after tomorrow. on a country-style niner, without anything. Ride more often, comrades. As someone said: “- Look, yes. find it”
Everyone. the desired road without puncture.
read both articles.
The first article (about the front brake) really causes strong internal disagreement with the author. In the comments they put everything in its place.
The novel, with its example about a semi-trailer, finally formalized my personal experience: for ten years of riding a bicycle with hand brakes, I always use this kind of braking procedure: first I clamp the rear brake, avoiding blocking, and then add the front brake to it, dosing the delay and effort depending on from the situation (in case of emergency braking, I clamp the front brake almost immediately after the rear one).
A higher physical education allowed me to explain for myself the theoretical side of the issue: pressing the front brake before the rear one leads to the fact that the rear axle is unloaded too much (especially considering the position of the cyclist), and the rear brake becomes, in fact, useless. The body body may not have time to work back to load the axle. Therefore, the commentators formulated the main postulate absolutely correctly: THE REAR BRAKE SHOULD BE GRABBED BEFORE THE FRONT BRAKE.
The rest is optional, taking into account the style of the catalets.
My personal experience of super-emergency braking during these ten years on the “handbrake” includes only two events:
1) sharp braking with the front brake on the sidewalk in front of a suddenly appeared pedestrian, which not only did not save from a collision, but also led to an awkward somersault over the steering wheel.
2) braking mainly with the rear brake on asphalt wet as oil in front of a jeep that suddenly decided to turn around. with a controlled skid and roll with both wheels into the wheel rims of a stopped jeep. As far as I remember, I got off with barely noticeable scratches on my right shin. The bike was not damaged either.
Since then, the main brake for me has become, first of all, the brain :).
Therefore, sometimes he even allowed himself to drive with one working brake to the bicycle workshop (when the pads were hewn to metal), carefully observing traffic rules and speed limits.
I also have some experience of winter driving on ice on the “mix”,
and also braking with two brakes starting from the rear one proved to be the most effective. It is also noteworthy that the rear wheel is always rigidly aligned with the bike frame, while the front wheel can “look” anywhere, which is why pressing the front brake before the rear on a slippery surface can lead to very strange consequences. The rear brake, on the other hand, more clearly sets the braking vector, provided that the roller sensitively catches the moment of blocking the wheel and the beginning of a skid.
Yes, there is no “main brake”, there is a braking technique! And the main commandment is sharp braking, it is better to avoid.
And if you have to brake sharply, then using both brakes on the verge of a wheel breakdown. This is the only way to achieve the most effective braking. The rear brake is in any case less effective (just according to the laws of physics) and on a normal dry road, in straight-line traffic, there should be no drift. With poor grip, you need to learn to feel the moment of drift and to weaken the braking force in time. And in turns, it is generally better not to brake without straightening the trajectory, etc. and so on.
To brake only with the front brake, it means not to use at least about a third of the braking energy due to the reduction of the contact patch with the road in half.
May the hydraulics be with you! The front can be adjusted so that ABS is useless)
Brake even “to the floor”, as motorists say! over, it slows down excellently, without a hint of blocking, even the body does not have to be shifted back. I have a CC with a slightly elongated frame, therefore, in order to stand on the “front end” for pontorez in front of the girls, on the contrary, you need to shift the weight closer to the steering wheel)) I have the rear one as controlled drifts of entering a turn at speed. Hence the conclusion. know and hone your and the technical capabilities of the bike! )
Not boring rides for everyone!
Just the other day I read Sheldon’s article about braking, somehow your article and his somewhat disagreements. I mainly use the front brake, but depending on the circumstances I also connect the rear one, the main thing is to feel the moment when the wheel is locked, dosing the effort on the handle.
http://caravan.hobby.ru/materiel/sheldon_brown/breaking/index.html here is a translation of Sheldon Brown’s article, maybe it will be useful to someone =)
I looked diagonally through Sheldon Brown’s article, but I didn’t notice any fundamental differences. It’s just that everything is in one article, and I have three articles on the topic of braking, but the essence, in my opinion, is the same.
norgotthank you katsap from a pure ukro-heart)))
Gentlemen, good time of the day!
I support Roman on braking techniques and Viktor’s three articles that need to be considered in a trio, not separately.
There is also a nuance with disc hydraulics. Brake with both brakes, so that part of the load can be removed from the front and so that it does not overheat longer.
And then overheating is oh how sad it turns out.
I have a few comments on the comments.
It is very difficult to simultaneously control the locking of the front and rear wheels. Therefore, it makes no sense to start braking with the rear or front. From the point of view of physics, it does not matter which wheel starts braking. as soon as you press the lever, the weight distribution changes, the efforts on the levers must also change. Can you track and, in proportion to the change in weight distribution, smoothly unclench the rear and clamp the front lever within a tenth of a second? And then there are different coatings, etc.
In theory, if braking is as effective as possible, then the rear wheel hangs in the air, but is it realistic to do this in an emergency? As a result, I decided for myself to put on the front of the pads of a larger area (I have pincers, put on the front of the pads from the V-breaks) and press on the asphalt with the same effort, but on the ground before not pressing.
The dacha bucket has both brakes and the rear one is used most often, and the front one when the rear one is no longer enough. There is only one rear brake at home and still there is almost no blockage. At speed, the second braking slows down for seconds, and then the speed returns. Until the hands reach, put the front brake.
Dosed work with the front brake only develops the feel of the bike well. yes, probably you shouldn’t practice this feeling in traffic, but in general it is useful. the main (most loaded) brake, of course, is the front one, this is understandable to anyone who has seen the front and rear pads in a car at least once in their life and could compare their sizes, but you shouldn’t draw the wrong conclusions from this.
The main brake is your body, its position and the ability to “control” it.
It is best, if possible, to always shift the center of gravity back.
Those. the nature of inhibition depends on the position of the body. And the lead needs to be adjusted to the body, and not vice versa.
I read the author and just like about my feelings.
It is unlikely that any recommendations can be given here, except for the development of reflexes and the acquisition of flair.
This is very true. It is good if the person was immediately told the theory so that he would be suitable already prepared. I have installed hydraulics for myself. It’s just a miracle. I applied the front brake gently, and the bike stood rooted to the spot without any flights over the handlebars, if on a flat road. I don’t use the rear one at all. From the hill, I constantly brake / release with the front, and insure myself with the rear. Began to feel.
In general, I’m used to slowing down with two at once. both the rear and the front. I don’t know whether I’m right or wrong. But I don’t have any drifts.
Here is the same, the bike does not skid, it stops straight.
Time to buy in the UK for dollars:]
In general, a real VELISAPEDIST uses the brakes only to stop near the house. (a bit of humor that has some common sense).
The main thing is to learn how to use the brake. Both back and front. I ride with one rear, as it is more versatile.
I ride a bike and only brake with the front one, and even then not always. The rear brake is very weak on my bike and has already lost the habit of pressing it.
A couple of weeks ago I read this site, and I realized that I had been practicing emergency braking with the front (well, rear including) brakes. The main thing is to develop a reflex. When braking hard. throw the rear back from the seat. over the rear wheel in order to shift the center of gravity back as much as possible. Put your hands on the steering wheel, and almost lie on the saddle with your stomach. And in this position, we sharply hit the brakes. On the asphalt, the front wheel breaks into a skid. but there is no overturn. Checked on a Gazelle leaving the roadside When I repeated this (as an experiment) on a dirt road. the front wheel skidded to the side, I barely had time to release from the pedals. but, I kept my balance.
It is possible and necessary to brake with the front brake. This is most effective. The main thing is to learn
“In general, a real BIKE uses the brakes only to stop near the house.” In the remaining time, he brakes with the engine))
Seriously though: I use both brakes equally and I urge everyone to do just that.
For inexperienced cyclists, I recommend the following brake settings: apply the front brake, push the bike forward. The rear wheel should lift slightly, and then under the weight of the bicycle, when the angle of degrees of thirty degrees is reached, the brake should allow the rim to turn and lower the rear wheel. This setting will prevent you from flying over the steering wheel in the event of emergency braking. Rear brake. we develop a speed of 10-15 km / h (we sit as always, without shifting the body) and simultaneously press both handles to the maximum. the rear wheel should not block. Well, or just a little bit. Again, this setting is only suitable for inexperienced cyclists, and it somewhat limits the possibility of emergency braking. But she also saves from stupid flights through the steering wheel.
And yes, we do not slow down in the turn.
Why the front brake is more effective than the rear brake on bicycles?
This is because the braking power depends on how much weight is on the wheel, and stopping increases the weight on the front wheel. So Alasdeir Macauley is right.
Chi Feng’s response states that “using the front brake allows you to translate your linear momentum at the moment of the momentum.” This is not only wrong, but also impossible. Linear momentum and angular momentum have different units. There is no way to translate one into another.
Chi’s other idea is that braking “converts forward kinetic energy into potential gravitational energy.” This usually has nothing to do with braking on a bicycle because the rear wheel does not usually lift off the ground, so the energy converted into gravitational energy is extremely small. However, the front wheel is still better even when both wheels remain on the ground.
To make a simple model, consider a bicycle that touches the ground in two places and has a center of mass.
The bike is gray, the ground is black, and the forces on the bike are red. Front part on the left; the bike moves to the left.
As the bike moves, the normal forces on the wheels counteract the force of gravity at the center of mass. We drew the center of mass at an equal distance from the supports, so in order for zero torque to be equal, the two normal forces are equal.
What happens when we brake with the front wheel?
We’ve added horizontal braking force to slow down the movement of the bike. There is now torque around the center of mass. This torque acts to rotate the bike upward.
However, while the braking force is fairly low, we are not actually picking up the bike from the ground. Instead, it will climb a very small distance. When it rises, the normal forces are rearranged to cancel out the torque around the center of mass, for example:
There is no more torque in the center of mass, so the bike no longer rotates. He received very little potential gravitational energy, but too small to notice.
However, the weight on the front wheel is now much greater. Since there is more weight on this wheel, we can apply even more braking force if we want. The braking force is limited by a constant coefficient of friction times the normal force, so a large normal force allows for a larger braking force.
If we brake with the rear wheel, the braking forces produce exactly the same torque about the center of mass. The normal front wheel force will still increase and the normal rear wheel force will still decrease. This means that we cannot brake as well, because we are using a wheel with less weight on it. We cannot roll over because when the bike starts to lift (and even when using the rear brake), the braking force gets weaker and stops providing enough torque to keep the bike spinning.
The condition under which the bicycle remains on the ground is that the torque from the braking force (relative to the center of mass) must be less than the maximum normal force on the front wheel. This gives
F b m 2020-04-16T13: 15: 2503: 00 10 months, 3 weeks ago
If you are not skidding, your bicycle tires are “rolling,” meaning they are stationary relative to the contact point on the ground. So the other answers about friction and normal force are correct if you are asking about maximum deceleration before skidding.
However, if you apply the same braking force (like brake pad pressure to a wheel) to the front brake as compared to the rear brake, the main reason it feels more “efficient”, that is, with a shorter stopping distance, is because that the front brake is used allows you to transmit your linear momentum into angular momentum, which in turn converts direct kinetic energy into gravitational potential energy (for example, your rear tire may lift), which reduces the amount of direct kinetic energy that must be dissipated by the brakes. ,
An edge case or pathological example is when your front wheel comes to a stop with very strong force, such as a stick between your front wheel and the front fork without skidding. The usual result is that the rider starts from where he is, and the bike tends to stop as if it is bumping into a wall. Here, the linear momentum of the bike and rider was converted into angular momentum (around the front wheel), so the kinetic energy in front of the bike and rider was converted into kinetic energy for the rotation of the bike and rider, and in the absence of some centripetal force (holding the wheel for dear life). the rider’s rotational movement will turn into a parabola (Newton’s 1st law).
Now consider the same scenario with a rear wheel jammed. Due to the impermeability of the front wheel (it is not going to sink into the ground), any torque created by the frictional force between the rear wheel and the ground corresponds to the normal force of the front wheel and the ground, so linear kinetic energy into rotational kinetic energy by turning on the front wheel ( or rear wheel) is not an option, so all the energy needed to stop the bike must come from heat / sound / deformation between the brake pads and the rear steering wheel.
It is important to note that if you are not skidding, the frictional force caused by static friction between the tires and the ground does not work (at the point of contact, the wheel moves perpendicular to the ground, that is, in and out of the ground), so defining work as a force in the direction of displacement is not no work was done.
First, keep in mind that in general, more weight on the wheels = more friction = more traction = more braking capacity. Just for the sake of the non-scientific people there.
I have tried more than once to explain to people close to me that on a motorcycle, the front brake should be used more often than the rear. People use the rear brakes more often and then the rear ones lock and they might say, “Oh, what would happen if my front axle was locked, it’s better not to use it at all!” Consequently, they ended up using poor braking techniques.
When you brake any wheeled vehicle, the front wheels cause dynamic load transfer. that is, the suspended weight of the vehicle is transferred to the front wheels, which makes it heavier than the rear, and therefore makes the front wheels more grippy than the rear. Note that this happens every time you apply the brakes. So basically every time we use the brakes, the rear of our bikes gets lighter, so it has less grip.
Ergo, in every possible braking scenario, the front wheel will always be heavier and have more grip! Hence, the front brakes on any bike are inherently designed to provide more stopping power, and so we have things like installing a 300mm double disc up front and a measly 200mm disc at the back of many sports bikes.
This, in fact, explains why the front brake is more effective than the rear brake. This also applies to vehicles with more than two wheels, as long as they are limited to two axles front and rear. in addition, we are moving into the territory for trucks and trailers and this is really a different ball game.
This is my section on why people should use more front brakes on any bike. Too many accidents are due to the fact that thousands of people do not know about this basic wisdom (I mean Asian countries when I write this; countries with a large volume of two-wheeled vehicles), so for those who already know this Please bear with me.
How to really use the brakes on a bike, in my humble opinion, is to understand that the front brake pad is stronger and put more force on the front brake levers than on the rear brakes. There is a reason most bikes come with a front disc brake, not just a rear disc brake. Have you ever noticed that even for bikes with both disc brakes, the rear disc is smaller than the front? (Extreme examples as seen on the super sports bikes mentioned above).
If you’ve seen Honda’s combination braking system on its mopeds / scooters, you’ll see that after pressing the rear brake lever (left lever), the front brake lever (right hand) also pulls inward. So the bike does for you what you should ideally be doing yourself, i.e. always use the front brakes in conjunction with the rear brakes.
The reason for this is simple, manufacturers know that the front brakes have more stopping power than the rear.
I personally use 70-30 offsets to the front brakes when driving (70% front, 30% rear) on normal city roads. In the rain too. On really clean, dust-free / non-slippery roads, I sometimes use the front brakes exclusively without ever touching the rear brakes (that’s on a Royal Enfield Thunderbird 500, cruiser) and I haven’t crashed because of that yet. Even pressing the front brake lever is extremely hard.
I could go on for a longer time, but mostly pay attention to the grip levels you have at your disposal. It’s easier to recover from rear brake pads than front brake skids, so I guess a 50-50 ratio is recommended initially.
I hope a lot of people read and implement this, and teach a few others about it. Many accidents happen simply because people can’t stop fast enough with their silly front brake phobia, when in fact applying the front brakes will help them to stop much faster.
Things to Check Before Cycling: 5 Tips for Beginners
Make sure not to break down on a trip somewhere in the middle of a forest 80 km from civilization. Our tips to help.
Furiously annoying situations when I decided to ride a bike, and halfway through it breaks down. It’s not bad if the issue is resolved on the spot. And absolutely sadness when you have to turn around and go back home, or even call a technician.
All this can be avoided. How. just by doing the following simple things before check-in.
Bottom bracket and pedal
- Make sure the pedals rotate freely. Otherwise, it is better not to enter the track. until you fix the problem.
- Even if you use your bike with care, the bottom brackets will wear out over time. If you noticed any noise, it could be a sign: it’s time to regulate them or replace them altogether. How to quickly make sure everything is working properly? Place the pedals in the 12:30 position (one vertically up, the other vertically down), then apply the brake and press down on the upper pedal. If it moves forward, and the lower one remains unmoved, then you need to repair.
Bicycle pedals should not emit extraneous sounds while scrolling
- First, make sure how tight and straight the handlebars are. It should not spin when the wheel is locked (for example, between the legs). If it turns, tighten the Allen bolt securely. To check how straight everything is, just look down from the top and you will see if the handlebars are aligned with the crown of the fork.
- Then check if the brakes and gear changes are in a comfortable position. This is necessary so that in case of something you can instantly reach them with your fingers.
- Apply both brakes. to check if they work and if they move approximately the same.
- Make sure that the plug is working and correctly set, nothing is poisoning / leaking from it. Otherwise, it makes sense to take the bike to a specialist.
2 Reasons Why Your Disc Brakes Don’t Work
Set the speed and brake switches to a convenient position for you
- Make sure the wheel is well secured: apply the rear brake and try to move the front wheel from left to right and vice versa. The axis must not move.
- Use a pressure gauge to check the tire pressure and spin the wheels to make sure they move smoothly. Check the tires for any noticeable punctures or damage.
- Apply the front brake to make sure it works properly. Look at the brake pads to see if they are worn down to metal.
- When looking at the wheel, pay attention to the spokes: they should be tightly compressed. To test, pinch two knitting needles with your hands. If there is a slight backlash, they should be tightened.
Make sure the front wheel does not move laterally around its axle
Saddle and bearings
- Make sure that the saddle (if you have one that can move in height) runs smoothly, is firmly secured, and does not begin to ride back and forth while riding. Find the optimal height for him (and yourself).
- Bearings on a fully suspended bike can “wear out” over time. If this happens, they need to be tightened. To check their condition, gently lift the bike by the saddle and observe each of the bearings. Pulling them up is a trifling matter, but if they continue to “weaken” further, it may be worth replacing them.
Clamp the saddle. so as not to suddenly sit on the “seat” while riding
- Checking the rear wheel is the same as the front one: tire pressure, spoke pressure, brake pressure, and so on.
- You also need to check the system (chainrings), cassette (rear stars) and chain. They must be clean, the chain is well lubricated and free from rust. If they look dirty, be sure to rinse them before the trip.
- To check gears, lift the rear wheel, pedal, and step on the switches. If everything is in order, the chain will quickly and clearly jump to the desired star.
Always check your tire pressure before driving
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