Is it possible to change the fork on a bike

How to change the fork on a bike

Perhaps I will share my experience in a new topic. I think this information will be useful to many. So, let’s begin! A patient:

possible, change, fork, bike

Here I will change: fork, steering column, stem and handlebars. As you can see in this photo, I have a threaded steering column. But the new fork goes under the STRAWLESS steering column. Therefore, you will have to change it too. We remove everything from the steering wheel, coins, brake levers, bike computers, etc. We remove the brakes from the fork (in my case, disc brakes) and set them aside. At the stem, unscrew the bolt and hammer it with a hammer so that the stem unhooks the fork stem. We take out the stem with the steering wheel and unscrew the steering column nuts. Carefully take out the upper bearing and pull out the fork together with the lower bearing. It turns out such a picture: I will squeeze out the selected black cups.

Modern bicycles are reliable, but, nevertheless, you will still need to periodically lubricate the bike and monitor its technical condition (change parts that are especially susceptible to wear: chain, cassette and chainrings).

The frequency of replacement depends on the class of attachment used on your bike and your cycling style (usually they are not enough for one thousand kilometers).

So, what a cyclist should know and be able to do:

Pull up the bike brake. At the base of the brake lever there is a shaped nut and a wheel on it. In order to make the brake more elastic, you need to unscrew the nut and fix it with the wheel that is on it. To weaken, do the same operation, only the other way around. But this is at an early stage, if there is nowhere to twist, then we find the brake pads (at the wheel rim). there is a cable attachment. loosen the nut. After loosening the nut, pull the cable towards you and tighten the screw. In general, you need to act according to the circumstances. when repairing, it is important to be able to navigate yourself.

Straighten the figure eight. For this operation, you need a special key for the knitting needles (it is not recommended to use pliers, so it is easy to spoil the knitting needles). The “figure eight” straightening operation is somewhat more complicated than the previous one and takes time. But it is necessary to be able to do this (not always, having received the “eight”, you will be able to find a master). First, we fix the bike so that the adjustable wheel can be rotated. Find where the rim deviates. If it deviates, for example, to the left, then we loosen the left knitting needles in that place, and tighten those on the right. If the rim deviates to the right, then vice versa: weaken the right spokes, and tighten the left.

But this method is only suitable for fixing a small figure of eight. If it is large, then this method most likely will not help and you will have to go to the workshop, where you will be helped or advised on what to do in a particular situation.

To glue the camera. To glue the camera, you need a bicycle first aid kit (you must have it on the road). When puncturing the camera, do the following: Before removing the wheel, do not forget to release it from the brake. Now you need to remove the wheel (for mountain bikes, usually they are unscrewed with a special nut with an eccentric handle). Then remove the tire with the camera (do not forget unscrew the nipple cap). Take out the chamber and inflate it (using the pump). now the hole is visible. Notice the puncture site and release the air. We clean the puncture site with a special emery available in the first aid kit. Apply glue to the patch (selected by size) and to the puncture site of the camera. Let it dry for two minutes and put the patch on the camera so that the hole is in the middle of the patch. Clamp the patch with your fingers and wait 5-7 minutes. Release, inflate, check. are there any more punctures (if found, we do the above with them). Check the inner part of the tire for foreign objects (which could get there during the puncture and which can cause a repeated puncture). Everything is fine. we lower the camera, push it into the tire, We put all this on the rim. Put the wheel on the bike (do not forget to screw it on) and return the brake to its normal position. Inflate the camera and go further!

That is, in principle, everything a cyclist needs to know to ensure prompt re

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Repairs

Disassembling a bicycle fork is easy. To do this, it is enough to follow the instructions provided. The purpose of this enterprise is troubleshooting, cleaning, lubrication and oil change.

Before proceeding directly to the dismantling of the bike, you need to prepare items that will be useful in the process of repair work:

  • you should wear repair clothes (old or unnecessary equipment), which in the process of performing work can get pretty dirty;
  • it is advisable to cover the surface with various rags or newspapers so as not to contaminate the floor of the room with oil;
  • you need to collect around you all the necessary tools (hexagons, screwdrivers, etc.);
  • need to purchase oil.

Air

Air bike forks are versatile designs that stand out for their unique functionality. The damper and spring in such forks is the competence of the air, due to which a small mass of the structure is formed. But such elements are not ideal, since air etching often occurs in frosty weather. Also, there are no special settings, and air is pumped into the system using a high pressure pump.

Experts advise keeping a close eye on your vehicle so that you don’t end up spending a lot of money fixing your bike. Continuous fork maintenance helps prevent unwanted damage. In this case, the parts will not break (or will, but in the most rare cases) and they will not need to be replaced with new elements.

Since some types of forks are not very popular, finding parts for the construction will be very problematic. An example of a bike with an air front fork is the Stels Navigator 360. A video review of the bike can be seen below.

Popular brands:

They are simple to construct and not expensive. As for reliability, it depends on the way of operation. If you serve and monitor on time, it can serve for a long time and without problems. But as a rule, on inexpensive ones, backlash of the front fork legs, rusting of the legs and other problems are inevitable soon.

Further instructions, suitable for almost any spring-elastic fork, as their design is identical.

Procedure for disassembling the plug:

Disassembling a fork shock absorber is most often necessary to replace lubricant or worn components. For example, these can be oil seals (cuffs), etc.

Fork maintenance

In addition to a routine inspection, the fork also requires regular maintenance, namely:

  • every 100-150 km of the distance traveled, it is necessary to clean and lubricate the feet on the oil seals;
  • every 500-1000 km. disassembly and full lubrication of oil seals;
  • every 4000-5000 km or at least once a year an oil change is made (applies to oil forks)

In general, a bicycle fork should be lubricated at least once a season, however, if you are actively using your bike, this procedure is recommended to be done more often. If we consider a spring-elastomer fork as an example, the lubrication process will look like this:

  • Using a syringe, oil is poured under the boot.
  • For the lubricant to be evenly distributed, the fork must be designed.
  • Remaining oil must be removed with a soft cloth.

According to experts, it is better to use silicone and transparent greases as a lubricant.

In addition to lubrication, maintaining a bicycle fork also includes keeping the devices clean. To exclude the possibility of dirt getting into the oil and malfunction of the bike after each walk, you need to wipe the legs of the forks near the anthers.

Also, the bike fork can be adjusted by sag or rebound (if available). However, as experts note, this procedure should be performed in stages: after changing each parameter, you should check the progress of the bike. Otherwise, the rider may miss out on the difference in travel, and the effect of fork adjustment will be blurred. It is worth noting that the masters advise to start adjusting this device from the neutral position, in which the rebound should be set halfway, and the compression arrows are unscrewed completely counterclockwise.

Dismantling the front fork for parts

You don’t need to disassemble a part to replace it, but its repair will require you to “fit” into the mechanism and dig into it thoroughly. Let’s consider how to sort out a spring-elastomer type suspension fork:

  • Unscrew the bottom fasteners with a hex wrench.
  • Remove the spring compression adjustment bolt. Preload. It is the main damper travel adjuster.
  • Remove the elastomer restrictor or damper.
  • Take off the “pants”.
  • Using a screwdriver, remove the seals from the pants.

The main reasons why the fork squeaks, makes knocks and does not smooth out vibrations while the bike is moving include wear of parts, water and dirt ingress, lack of internal lubrication. We put in order:

  • Remove all dirt from the inside of the pants.
  • Thoroughly wipe the fork legs, spring and seals.
  • Replace the defective part if necessary.
  • Install the elastomer damper (fill oil through the nipple for the hydraulic fork).
  • Lubricate the inner cavity. inject oil from a can.
  • Install Mounting Bolt and Preload.

It looks like a do-it-yourself bicycle fork bulkhead. Is it needed for a new part? There is an opinion that a plug that has been sorted out at once will be better tuned and will last longer. Much depends on the quality of the kit, but it will be found out in real riding conditions.

Scheduled repairs are done as needed, bulkhead once a season. And of course, you shouldn’t forget about prevention. After each ride, remove dirt from the surface of the oil seals, lubricate, check the fasteners and integrity.

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How to assemble and put the plug back

The process of assembling and installing a bicycle suspension fork is carried out in the reverse order. The only thing that you should carefully and carefully perform this operation in order to avoid incorrect installation of components. After you have installed the assembled fork back on the bike, secured the stem, be sure to check that there is no play in the steering tube in the frame glass. If they are observed, then be sure to eliminate them before the trip.

After you set everything up and start riding, for the first time, there will be an abundant release of lubricant through the cuffs of the bicycle fork pants. Don’t worry, this is normal. Over time, excess oil will be squeezed out, and this process will stop. During this period, do not be lazy, and do not forget to wash off excess lubricant after each trip.

Fork maintenance intervals

The frequency of changing the lubricant of the bicycle fork depends not least on the road surface on which you are riding. If there is an abundance of dust, mud, sand and other abrasive material on your routes, then the frequency of service should be increased. Here are the average figures after which maintenance should be performed.

Approximately every 700-800 km, the oil seals should be disassembled and lubricated, and every 4000-5000 km the entire fork is moved and lubricated.

How to put the fork back on the bike

First, inspect the bearing ring. There should be no damage or broken edges on it. Otherwise, you will need to replace it (if an old plug is installed). Assembly sequence:

Put the ring on the joint of the fork with the steering column.

Cover it with an adjustable wrench from above.

Using a hammer, press in the ring evenly with soft blows on the jaws of the key. We hammer “by sound”: while he is deaf, we continue to press, sonorous. the ring has fallen into place.

Can You Swap Your Suspension Fork For A Rigid One? | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

Lubricate the surface of the stopper (grease. lithol-24, buksol or special composition).

Place the bearing carefully with the balls facing up. You can also apply a little lubricant to it. A sealing washer must be placed under the bearing.

Carefully insert the stem into the glass and repeat all removal operations in the reverse order.

About Mountain Biking. Tapered Forks and Fitting into a Normal Bike

For a long time in the bicycle market, the standard head size was considered to be 1-1 / 8 “. Nothing lasts forever, and for several years now, the new 1-1 / 8. 1-1 / 2” conical cup, which is also called Tapered, has been gaining momentum.

Buying a bike a few years ago means it has an old standard fork with a stem. A tapered fork won’t just snap. This kind of problem worries cyclists who intend to upgrade a simple fork to something more modern over time. Nowadays the best manufacturers produce almost all of the Tapered forks. Which can create additional difficulties with the acquisition of a suitable option. Of course, 1-1 / 8 “plugs can still be found on the shelves. However, they are quite old models, and for Tapered plugs are often higher. over, it can be difficult to choose due to the small assortment.

The situation was the same with respect to the head size 1 “. Forks gradually passed into a deficit category, and then began to be perceived as a rare and unconditional exotics in their pure form. The standard has a wider stem. Now everything is much simpler. A taper forks can fit into a standard 1-1 / 8 “head, but there are tricks. First, consider the reasons for changes in the diameter of the stem.

Reasons for switching to tapered headset The size 1 “headset disappeared for a reason. The small diameter tube had low stiffness, the bike felt poorly. Active braking and steering made the fork move. With more weight on the cyclist, it felt even more. The larger head tube provided the necessary control stiffness. Some, at the same time, continued to “reinvent the wheel”:

10 Common Mistakes Made When Replacing A Mountain Bike Fork | How To Fit A New Fork

And the increase in the lower part of the head tube allows for greater load distribution, and therefore the bearings now last longer. Is there a need for a tapered head for the common hobbyist? Unlikely. Extreme driving with relaxed riding is useless, there are no shortcomings in speed control, a little stiffness is of little concern. It’s another matter for athletes who really benefited from the innovation.

Fitting a new standard forks to a regular headroom It is simply impossible to switch to a new standard and most have to change frames. But in this situation, you can find a way out. Anyway, this is possible for bicycles with a semi-integrated headset with 44mm cups. It is worth remembering that if the internal dimensions of the glass are less than 44 mm, nothing will come of it. You can try, but it will take time and effort, and it is not very clear what will happen to the strength.

If you need to install a tapered fork, you can use the NukeProof steering wheel. It fits in a cylindrical glass in the best way. It is only important that the bicycle has a steering wheel designed for a semi-integrated steering wheel of a certain size. For many newbies, the steering features are a sealed mystery. But the question is quite understandable.

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Features of bicycle steering columns The steering columns are very diverse in design. In the case of mountain biking, this is how it works. Semi-integrated steering wheels are easy to recognize. If a cup is additionally inserted in the head tube, then we have a semi-integrated head tube. Bearings can be open or closed. All this requires a clamp. The integrated steering does not require cups. The bearing seats are machined directly into the sleeve. Cartridges with bearings are placed there. An example of a semi-integrated helmsman:

There are many other possibilities for fitting the new standard forks to a regular bike frame. With the investment of time and effort, you can always find a suitable adapter to fit a tapered fork into the frame. But isn’t it easier, in this case, to replace the frame?

Bicycle fork: remove, disassemble, assemble, install

  • cleaning and lubricating the feet on the oil seals. every 100-150 km of the distance traveled;
  • inspection for cracks in the “pants” of the plug, lubrication of oil seals with disassembly. every 500-1000 km;
  • for oil forks. oil changes annually or after 4000-5000 km of travel.

Among the tools necessary for working with a bicycle fork are a screwdriver, pliers, a wrench, a small adjustable gas wrench; taking into account the specifics of working with oil, it is advised to stock up on rags or rags, in addition, work can be performed with gloves to protect hands from damage and pollution.

Bicycle fork maintenance and repair

With the advent of your two-wheeled friend, life is filled not only with bright moments of walking in the park or long trips out of town with friends, but also with routine bike care. One can hear objections: they say that qualified specialists who understand what and what is in a complex bicycle device should be engaged in repair and maintenance. But besides this, you need to understand that this vehicle will require constant care and attention. Well, do not run to the master every week to lubricate the fork or check the rear shock absorber? There are a lot of little things in bicycle maintenance, which are best done by yourself: not only reliably, but also cheap.

How to replace a fork on a bicycle?

It is not recommended for an untrained and inexperienced user to carry out: if it is possible to cope with simple care, then it is better to leave such a procedure to a qualified specialist. As a last resort, carry out the replacement under the supervision of the master, following his recommendations.

Removing the fork from a bike?

To remove the fork from the bike for subsequent maintenance or complete replacement, it is necessary to turn the bike upside down, release the brake (if it is a rim brake) and remove the front wheel. At the second stage, the steering wheel with the stem is removed, then the steering tube.

After that, we remove the plug, it is extremely important not to lose the balls from the bearings. Then the support tapered ring is removed from the fork stem (usually using a sharp measure, gently squeezing it from all sides). Then we have a plug ready for service.

Individual users are advised to sort out even new, just purchased forks, explaining this by the need for individual debugging of the element.

How to disassemble a bicycle fork (using the example of a spring-electric fork) read below:

    it is necessary to unscrew the lower mounting bolts using hexagons;

Preload spring force adjusting bolt.

This completes the fork disassembly process and begins the process of caring for the parts received: a thorough inspection of the elements for damage, cracks and other things is necessary, thoroughly rinse with kerosene and lubricate the elements that need it. It is important to lubricate the springs with heavy grease for best fork performance.

Fork care is a guarantee of its “health

Bicycle fork should be lubricated once a season, but with heavy use this procedure may be necessary more often. The process of lubricating a spring-elastomer fork is extremely simple: oil is poured with a syringe under the boot, then the fork is developed, and the remaining lubricant is removed with a soft cloth. Teflon grease is best applied to the feet near the oil seals (aerosol grease is increasingly being used).

Among the best lubricants, masters call silicone and transparent greases.

It is equally important to keep the forks clean: be sure to wipe the feet of the forks near the boots after each bike ride to avoid dirt getting into the oil and impairing the proper functioning of the bike.

Adjusting the bike fork begins with setting the sag, then rebound (if its adjustment is provided), under which the low-speed and high-speed compression will be adjusted. Experts note that the adjustment should be carried out in stages: you made one change. you checked the progress of the bike with a walk, only then change the next parameter. If you do not adhere to this recommendation, then the owner risks missing out on the difference in travel and lubricating the effect of the fork adjustment.

TIP! You need to start the process of adjusting the fork from the neutral position: half-set rebound, the compression arrows are unscrewed completely counterclockwise.