Installing the front fender on a stealth bike

Installing mudguards on a mountain bike

The exact installation sequence will depend on the design. Typically, manufacturers provide visual instructions that can give you a general idea of ​​the location of elements and fasteners. In the material, we will talk about two installation methods: quick (using a sleeve and a clamp), and also more reliable (screwing the plate into special holes on the frame).


Throughout most of Fender’s history of manufacturing in the United States, production dates have been applied to various components.

In particular, production dates were either penciled or stamped on the heel of most guitars and basses, although there were times when this was not done all the time (e.g. 1973 to 1981) or simply omitted. the approximate age of the guitar. but this is certainly not definitive, because the neck date simply refers to the date of manufacture of the individual component. not the whole instrument.

Given the modular nature of Fender‘s manufacturing technology, a single neck could be produced for a specific year, then retained for a specific period of time before being connected to the body to create a complete guitar, perhaps next year, for example. Consequently, although the date is on the grill. useful in determining the range of production dates, obviously not a precise guideline.

Most of the specs for a given Fender instrument model little (if any) change over the life of the model. Although there have been periods of dramatic changes. for example, the transitions between the Leo Fender years and the CBS years, or the transition between the CBS years and the current ownership. most models tend to be feature-specific and do not change from year to year

Serial numbers also help identify the year the instrument was manufactured. Over the years, serial numbers have been used in various places on Fender instruments such as

Do you need fenders on a bike

It is easy to guess that the main task, as well as the main advantage of the wings, is protection from water and dirt. After installing them, the owner of the bike will be relatively isolated from splashing from under the wheels.

installing, front, fender, stealth, bike

Nevertheless, some disadvantages should be taken into account:

  • Increase the total mass of the bike. This parameter will have a significant impact in the case of installing metal models, which are currently a rarity.
  • Decreased cross-country ability. When driving over irregularities, the triggered shock absorption can cause the wheel to rub against the protective element. In addition, if the bike is equipped with rain fenders (minimum clearance with the wheel), then when passing through muddy areas, they will instantly clog. This will create unnecessary resistance and may cause a forced stop. In urban conditions, the problem will be irrelevant.
  • Changing the original design of the bike. The point is controversial and depends on the personal preferences of the owner.

If the voiced cons are not scary, and you have decided whether you need fenders for a mountain bike, you can proceed with their selection and subsequent installation.

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Mudhugger FR Fender. Overview

The Front Race (FR) fender, made from injection molded plastic, is the longer of the two mudguards offered by the company, and is curved and wrapped around the front wheel, with a long tail and a slightly shorter front end. Four ties are used to secure it to the fork, and its forward position can be adjusted with a selection of slots. At 65 grams, the Mudhugger doesn’t add much weight to the bike and it fits 26, 27.5 and 29 inches bikes. It will also fit the new generation 27.5 Plus bikes with Boost 110 forks. Mudhugger also offers rear mudguards that attach directly to the swingarm. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price. 32 (£ 25) from

I installed Mudhugger on different Fox and RockShox forks without any problems. On a 27.5-inch bike with 2.35-inch tires, the Mudhugger does sit pretty close to the tire, but any fear of it clogging or blocking the wheel proved unfounded. Except for the occasional slippage of branches or leaves between the plastic and the tire, this did not cause any interference issues. Mudhugger went through a lot of races, threw himself into the back of the car and even suffered a few accidents, but its durability was excellent. Obviously, you need to be a little more careful when transporting the bike, but the plastic was very durable. The mudguard is equipped with ties. Velcro straps will make it easy to remove, but the zip ties provide a very secure fit. With Mudhugger, there’s no reason to let dirt and rain get in your way.

Installation through special holes

If the bike has holes above the rear and front wheels, then you can purchase fenders with mounting on plates. Instructions on how to put the front fender on the bike:

  • Insert the plate into the splash guard.
  • Open brakes if V-brakes (rim) are installed.
  • Attach the wing with the plate to the hole in the gorilla forks. Thread the screw.
  • Adjust the height. rubber should not rub against plastic.
  • Tighten the fastener. If necessary, you can fix the nut with a wrench, and screw it in with a screwdriver.

Note! Similar fenders are installed on city bicycles. Usually they have additional fasteners. wire antennae. They snap into place at the bottom of the fork. Before buying them, you should make sure that you have all the necessary holes on the frame.

A rear wing of this type can consist of two parts and is also attached through a special hole:

  • The bracket is installed on the front frame, after which the front part of the protective element snaps into it.
  • V-brakes open if necessary.
  • Take the bracket, screw and nut. The screw is threaded into a special seat above the wheel. The bracket is put on the screw as tightly as possible.
  • The wing is threaded through the bracket. its edges should lie in the grooves. The procedure is simple and seems complicated only in words. Planting depth is selected according to personal preference.

The instructions presented in this article will help you figure out how to attach the front and rear fenders to your bike. There are no universal recommendations regarding this procedure, but the outlined sequence of actions will allow you to understand the general principle of installation and apply it on the purchased model. When choosing a wing, you should pay attention to its width so that it completely overlaps the tire. Length plays an important role. the longer it is, the less water and dirt will get on the rider.

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Road Bike & Hybrid Fenders

Here, the question of appearance is even more important than in the case of mountain bikes. There is a very elegant option that almost does not disfigure the road. the Crud RoadRacer Mk2. Personally, I haven’t had time to acquire it yet, but a roadie buddy recommended it.

The system is easily removable and adaptive; such fenders are almost invisible on a bicycle. According to my friend, they protect from water perfectly.

Alternatively, the classic SKS Race Blade can be supplied. I put these on a hybrid, with the onset of the rainy season in our Estonia. The design is also easily removable, impressions from several years of operation are positive.

Stationary short wings

They are usually made of plastic. They are attached to the frame or fork or at one point with a bolt. They are about one and a half times shorter than the long wings. The stationary short fenders are close to the tire and provide pretty good protection. These fenders are lightweight and well-secured, but provide poor dirt protection for the front derailleur and shins. Personally, I had such wings and broke very quickly. The mountings were not at all so hot.

For or against

Bicycle fenders have both advantages and disadvantages, which are determined by the type of bike and its purpose. Among the positive aspects of this part on the wheels, it can be noted that:

  • This is a good protection against dirt and splashes from under the wheels;
  • Correctly selected, they do not spoil the appearance of the equipment;
  • Some types are quickly attached and removed.

Fans of sports bicycles often do without fenders, as they make the bike heavier, which is unacceptable for sports. For city driving, this detail can be very useful: it will protect the cyclist from getting dirt on his clothes. In order to understand whether the installation of this element is really necessary, you need to try everything on your own experience, as well as choose the right type of fenders on wheels. They can be:

  • Stationary short;
  • Quick-detachable short;
  • Stationary long.

The first option is quite common and they are made of plastic. You need to attach them to the fork or frame using a bolt. Protection is not complete, which in some cases may be significant. Their weight is small and therefore they do not particularly affect the weight of the equipment.

Quick-detachable short ones are also made of plastic, but they have mobility. They should be secured with a special clamp, which allows for quick installation and removal. Many cyclists use this type of fenders on wheels despite the fact that the level of protection is not very high. It is important to carry out the installation correctly, otherwise the part will be useless.

Long stationary fenders for a bicycle are metal parts that are installed by attaching in three places to the fork, frame. The area of ​​protection against dirt flying from the wheels is quite large, but it is necessary to periodically clean the part itself. They are most suitable for road or road type bicycles.

Stationary long wings

They are made of metal and metal-plastic. Bolted to frame or fork at three locations. Provides maximum protection because it covers a quarter of the front wheel and half of the rear wheel, and is close to the tire. Stationary long fenders at the rear can be combined with the trunk. When buying such wings, one must take into account that they are heavy. Another disadvantage is that, due to the short distance, dirt gets clogged between the wheel and the wing. Therefore, such fenders are usually installed on road and city bicycles.


As you can see, there are no ideal bicycle fenders. The longer the wing and the closer it is to the wheel, the better the protection. But, such wings are not suitable, for example, for cross-country and other extreme disciplines. Even the best wings will not help in heavy rain. Extremals, for whom water and dirt are little things on the way to victory, they do not need them at all.

But Kotovsky has a different opinion about the road racers.

How to put fenders on a stealth bike

Maintenance: DIY bike fenders

Cycling is a sustainable transport and riding is very popular. Owners of this technique must have some skills in maintenance and repair, because this will allow you to quickly and efficiently find a way out in unforeseen situations, for example, glue the camera or put the wings on the bike. The latter option causes a lot of controversy among fans of two-wheeled vehicles. It all depends on individual preferences and it is worth familiarizing yourself with this topic in a little more detail.

Quick release short wings

Made of plastic, they are attached to the frame with a special clip. The distance between the wing and the tire is 10. 20 cm. Because of this, the level of protection is much worse and the dirt flies in all directions. Quick-release short fenders are insensitive to clogging with mud between the fender and the tire, they are quickly removed when transporting the bike. But, with them, the cyclist will be covered in mud. If the height is too high, such wings become a pointless accessory that does not fulfill its main function. The plastic mount on my fender came off pretty quickly. Also not a hot option


Mobile versions of this part are quite easy to install, but the process of fixing stationary ones requires especially close attention. Before starting work, the rim brakes must be disengaged so that the rear fender can be attached without any problems. Then you remove the screw located under the seat and you need to put the element on the seat post. The front fender is easily bolted into place at the fork crown. It is important to calculate the force with which the bolts are tightened. If you tighten it too much, then the fasteners can be damaged and become unusable, in the opposite case. it will dangle freely and interfere with driving.

Most often, the option of installing one part is not chosen, it is more efficient to put a complete pair. This will provide the best protection against splashes and dirt. If you plan to install a roof rack, you must first install the rear wing. In the case of an already installed trunk, it must be removed.

  • Nuts;
  • Screws;
  • Screwdrivers;
  • Keys to fit.

Now the question of how to mount the fenders on a road or road bike has been resolved. It is not difficult to choose the appropriate option, because modern manufacturers produce a sufficient range of such devices. You can also make wings yourself, but this is a rather laborious process. Correct fit will ensure the functionality of the part and not render it useless, weighing down the bike.

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Whether wings are needed on a bicycle or not. everyone decides for himself. For example, a bicycle without wings is not interesting to me. Washing all my clothes after every cycling trip is not for me.

I was interested in the last picture. Usually glossy wings like these break from a slight bend, but here someone bends the wing in half, and it does not break. I took the risk of doing this with my wing. It bent in the same way as in the picture, and unbent, while at the place of the bend there were not even traces left! So the quality of these fenders is pretty good.

There are different types of rack attachment. In the photo. metal. My wings are plastic. They allow you to slightly adjust the length of the strut within 2 cm and supposedly separate themselves in problematic cases (apparently, if something gets between the wheel and the wing or struts).

Attaching the fenders to the frame.

The fixing problems started from the very beginning. My frame has no holes for attaching full size fenders! The steel struts and their attachment to the fenders are made in such a way that the loop goes straight to the wheel axle. Apparently, the manufacturer assumed that the axle was threaded through the hinges and tightened along with the wheel.

Abandoned furniture was found at a local dump. There were aluminum corners bolted to the particle board panels. I unscrewed them, they are very light, their weight is practically not felt on the palm (much lighter than steel products). From one corner with an angle grinder, I made four adapters, drilling two holes in each in the right places:

An important point. Although the axle of the wheel is smaller, a large hole was drilled so that the spring in it could move freely, otherwise, when installing the wheel, you get bullshit.

The bike in the photos is turned upside down as the photos were taken while the fenders were being mounted.

Since the loop is displaced from the center of the wheel by a few centimeters, the racks will have to be filed a few centimeters, one more, the other less. I sawed so that there was 3.5 cm between the wheel and the wing. It makes no sense to do more, since from the front side the frame restricts the movement of the wing to that extent. Doing less is dangerous, as dirt on the wheel can rub against the fender and make it difficult to move. Cutting off more and reducing the gap is always possible, but it will not work to build up the racks, so it is better to start with a larger gap and, if necessary, reduce it later (if the wings will not catch dirt).

Plastic fasteners are screwed to the wing with complete self-tapping screws, and steel struts are tightened by hand with a plastic nut. Adequate clearance between fender and tire.

How to install front fender on your bike

But the mount of the struts is initially located quite close to the wheel (about 1 cm). On wide tires, this can be a serious problem. So, Rapid Rob 2.25 lies almost close to these plastic mounts. On the bumps, they will probably scratch with protruding cubes. When mounting the front wing, I found a simple solution (read below), with 2.0 everything became normal, but for 2.25 I would still not recommend buying these wings, or you will have to make homemade strut mounts (more widely spaced on the outer side of the wing).

In addition to the twin steel struts, the rear wing has two more mounts. One. at the height of the trunk through the supplied plastic half-coupler. There is an unthreaded hole on the frame in this place, so the bolt and nut for this fastening must be selected by yourself. The other. at the very bottom. the hole on the wing is aligned with the hole in the frame and tightened with a bolt that is not included in the kit. The frame has already been threaded. There were no problems with the fastening itself in these places, but the fender squeezed the front derailleur, and it did not switch. I had to tinker to move the wing away from the derailleur closer to the wheel. In my case, a plastic spacer and a few washers between the wing and frame helped.

As for the front wing. The top mount attaches to the hole in the gorilla. Honestly, when buying a bike, I was looking for one that has this hole, since many forks now do not have such a hole, and there you have to tinker with another homemade mount. But there are no holes for attaching the wing struts on my fork. The original idea was the same. to make adapters from the wheel axle. There is also a non-flat seat for the nut, so it had to be filled with additional washers of the appropriate thickness.

The problem of the closeness of the wing-pillar attachment to the tire on the front wheel was more noticeable than on the rear. On the front fender there is not a double strut, but a single strut, so that at the slightest vibration, the wing began to play on the sides, and these plastic pieces hit the side teeth of the tire. Neither one nor the other benefit from this, of course. The only thing I came up with was bent the post in the place where it fits into the plastic fasteners, as shown in the photo. After that, the distance between the tire and the strut increased, the wing was fixed more rigidly, and nothing clings to anything. It turned out quite practical, so I also bent the struts on the rear wheel, as far as possible from the wheel.

At first it seemed to me that the front fender was not low enough to protect the feet from dirt. In practice, no problems were noticed. When driving through puddles, feet remain clean. As if by the will of fate, a few weeks later I found a rubber bike mudguard (branded) rolled in the sand on a forest road, which fit perfectly into my wing, but since I often have to moose in the forest, drag my bike through fallen trees, I decided not to put it down for now. because it is during forest losism that you understand why the wing ends exactly where it ends. If it were a little lower, it would cling to everything.


For comparison, Schwalbe Hurricane Performance 2.0 fender and tire width:

Well, to complete the review, a photo with wings. I can’t help but notice that the thin steel struts still do not provide rigidity, and the wings are rather wobbly. They haven’t touched the wheels yet, but it’s still unpleasant. Ideally, you should strive to arrange the wings so that these racks are as short as possible, but, alas, this does not always work out. You can click on the photo to see a larger image.

Real world tests.

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Especially, of course, I did not climb into the mud, but the circumstances were such that I had to overcome several flooded areas, I decided to take a photo for this article at the same time. I was quite pleased with the result. I drove out of the viscous mud absolutely clean, I didn’t even get my shoes dirty. Schwalbe Hurricane Performance, on the other hand, barely coped with the task. My feeling was that about 80% of the forces spent on pedaling was wasted, that is, the wheels just spun in place, barely maintaining movement. If it weren’t for the fenders, the rear wheel would definitely spit dirt all over my back. It’s amazing how I got out of the stream shown in the fourth photo at all. The exit from it was viscous and very slippery, the wheels were strongly sucked in, when they were rotated they were spinning in vain. If the swamp were a couple of meters longer, I would have to dismount directly into this mud. However, I will not completely criticize Hurricane. Firstly, they are not mud, but road, and the fact that they can pull out of a quick slippery swamp with their few teeth located only on the side is, as it were, even a plus in comparison with the classic road tire, which is generally useless for such places. Secondly, last year I had similar problems on the toothy Rapid Rob in these places. they also slipped noticeably, only less. As for the wings, they pay off. The fenders do not prevent dirty wheels from spinning, but they keep both the rider and the bike clean. The only thing I don’t like specifically about these fenders is the insufficient stiffness of the steel struts. Because of them, the front wing vibrates from side to side on irregularities, sometimes creating strange sounds such as bouncing.

Application. Fastening the front fender with clamps.

Supplement March 6, 2018.

The fenders are still on the bike. I did not install the clamps, I left them as they were originally assembled. In general, I am satisfied with the wings, but I want to note one feature. Pine cones. If you drive on a road covered with cones, they are somehow tightened between the wheel and the wing, and the very protection that I wrote about at the beginning of the article is triggered. The wing is detached from the struts using a plastic connector. According to the manufacturer’s idea, this connector is disconnected and then snapped back by hand, and in fact this is usually the case, but, unfortunately, during the season I have already broken two such connectors with the help of cones. the thin tendrils of the clamp break off there and they simply stop fixing. The wing begins to fly out of the retainer on each bump, rattles and interferes with movement, so this situation is very annoying on a long journey. Of course, on my return home, I just filled all these connectors with superglue and they no longer come apart, but those who are not familiar with this problem should keep this in mind. After gluing all the quick-release clamps with superglue, I no longer had problems with bumps.

Why put fenders on a bike

Fenders for a two-wheeled vehicle have advantages and disadvantages, just like any other part of a bicycle. Of the clear advantages of installing the part in question, several points can be distinguished:

  • good protection of the wheels and the cyclist himself from dirt;
  • stylish appearance that will not spoil the bike at all (subject to the correct choice of fenders);
  • this part is quite simple and quick to install on the bike and can be removed in the same way.

Usually, mountain / speed bike enthusiasts do not install fenders on their vehicle. they make the structure heavier, which automatically reduces the speed and maneuverability of the bike. But for using a bicycle in urban life, the wings will be very useful. they will at least protect the cyclist’s clothes from dirt and water splashes, and this is no longer a little.

Quick release short

They are made of plastic, the distinctive feature of the quick-detachable short wings is their mobility. The bicycle fenders in question are attached using special clips. this is what ensures quick installation and quick removal of this part without the use of any specific tools.

Professional cyclists often use short quick-release fenders for their two-wheeled vehicle, although the level of protection from dirt and water will be minimal.

Long stationary

This type of wing is considered the classic and the most reliable / practical. They are installed using bolts, and are attached to the fork and frame at three points. With the right width of the long stationary fenders, the cyclist will be protected from mud and water at a high level.

This type of bicycle part in question is made of metal, used for road and highway vehicles.

Types of fenders for a bicycle

There are several types of the bike part in question on the market, so you need to get information about each of them in advance. So, in retail outlets, customers are offered three types of bicycle fenders:

  • short stationary;
  • short quick-detachable;
  • long stationary.

How to install fenders on a bike

The popularity of bicycles among the population forces the owners of such a vehicle to get acquainted with the features of its maintenance. Many people are interested in the question. is it necessary to install fenders on a bicycle, moreover, no one will give an unambiguous answer to this question. it all depends on individual preferences.

Stationary short

This is perhaps the most common type of bicycle mudguard. They are attached to the fork or frame with a bolt. It is worth noting that they will not be able to fully protect against dirt and water (this fact may be significant), but they are very light and practically do not change the weight of the entire structure of the vehicle.

How to install fenders on a bike

You can install quick-release fenders on a two-wheeled vehicle yourself. This is done literally in two movements. the wing is simply set in place and fastened with a clip (with one click). As for the stationary wings, then here you will need to prepare for a somewhat complex process.

Note: experts say that stationary fenders on a bicycle should be put in pairs. If you plan to install the rear rack in the future, then the wing is installed first. If there is a trunk, before working with the wings, it must be removed.

What you need to prepare to work on installing fenders on a bike:

  • screwdrivers;
  • screws;
  • nuts;
  • keys of different sizes.

And then everything is simple and clear. the wings are attached to the frame and fork, the bolts and nuts are tightened as tightly as possible. After installing the wings, experts do not recommend immediately tightening the fasteners. first check that the part is installed correctly.