Installing fenders on a stealth bike

Long stationary

This type of wing is considered the classic and the most reliable / practical. They are installed using bolts, and are attached to the fork and frame at three points. With the right width of the long stationary fenders, the cyclist will be protected from mud and water at a high level.

This type of bicycle part in question is made of metal, used for road and highway vehicles.

Installation nuances, taking into account the type of bike

How you fit the fenders to your bike depends on the type of bike. Before starting work, you should prepare all tools and consumables. In most cases, installation will not take much time and effort.

What are the types of wings

installing, fenders, bike

With a wide range of accessories and components, it is naive to believe that there are few types of wings. But still, several main groups should be distinguished, forgetting about all the variety of manufacturing companies. So, there are wings:

  • The standard sizes are the oldest, as their appearance coincides with the appearance of the first bicycles. They are also called full-size. They are considered reliable protection, and the material from which they are made, as a rule, is metal.
  • Sports, which got their name because of the special shape. They do not cover the entire wheel, they are limited only to the upper part. They are made mainly of plastic, a flexible and elastic material that can withstand the necessary loads. But at the same time, their weakness lies in the fastening (in the form of one fastening bolt). Such mud flaps live until the mount breaks.
  • To protect the stem and steering column, there is a separate type of protection. bog guards. Preferred by mountain bike enthusiasts.

Naturally, each of the species has its own subspecies, but this is important only for true professionals. Amateurs and beginners do not need such information, since there are exactly as many subspecies as there are manufacturing companies (thousands, to put it simply).

Varieties of wings

Bicycle fenders come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The specificity of the product depends on which particular model of transport it is intended for. The main varieties include:

Take the survey

Some sports enthusiasts claim that fenders negatively affect the appearance of the bike. It is also widely believed that they have a bad effect on the aerodynamic properties of transport. However, in bad weather, these devices protect the rider’s back from splashing mud, therefore, they are indispensable when riding in the fall.

How to choose and install fenders on a bike, mounting methods

At home, craftsmen can do anything: even repair a car. over, tuning a simple transport will not take much time: every craftsman knows how to install wings on a bicycle. The nuances of work largely depend on the brand of the product. The set of tools required may also vary.

Urban

The necessary tools used in the work are a screwdriver and a wrench. To install, you need to stick the front fender strut into the head tube from below, screw it all the way. Further, the protection is inserted into the groove. With proper installation, a characteristic click should sound. For better adjustment, it may be necessary to slightly modify the resulting model with a file.

The attachment point for the rear wing on the bike is located on the seat post. If it is smooth, a special rubber pad should be used, otherwise the protection will constantly shift during driving, or, if there is insufficient rigidity, twitch in different directions, which can create significant inconvenience.

For city bikes, choose large models that cover almost the entire wheel. They are usually made from high strength metal. For fixation, long pieces of wire are used, resembling a mustache; they are caught by the ends of the axles.

Installation of fenders depending on the type of bike

Not all bicycles have the same fenders.

Does your bike need this kind of protection??

Fenders are installed not only to protect clothing from dirt, but also to protect components from excessive clogging.

Many mechanics and advanced riders oppose the installation of mudguards on sports bikes. Despite the fact that they will to some extent protect the rider from dirt on the back, this is still an extra knot, which means extra weight and additional problems with maintenance. Therefore, the decision to install the mudguards for the bike will be up to you.

Installing the rear mudguard

The rear fender is a little more difficult to fit on a bike. A full-length bogie at the end can be frame-mounted or have a quick-release seat tube clamp. The latter is more versatile and fits almost all bicycles, and does not require removing the wheel for mounting. Also, almost all modern bogies have adjustable bows for greater versatility. Therefore, full-size bicycle fenders 26” may be suitable for 28” wheels.

  • Pass it down between the rear stays until it rests against the bracket on the bridge on the frame.
  • If there is a thread in it, just install the bolt, otherwise insert the through bolt, washer and install the nut.
  • As in the first case, screw the arcs to the frame.
  • Screw / snap the clamp onto the seat tube or screw the end to the frame.
  • Adjust the bogie in height relative to the frame and tighten all the bolts.
  • Put the wheel back in place and recheck the brakes if necessary.

Done, you have installed both fenders and are now completely protected from dirt.

Mountain bikes

Mountain bike owners try to avoid fenders, but unwillingness to ride in dirty clothes takes over. Therefore, from time to time, the question of how to install fenders on a mountain bike is gaining relevance. The fenders can be placed on both wheels. If wide models, in your opinion, will greatly spoil the appearance of your mountain bike, then you can install a shield, which must be fixed under the lower tube of the frame in the area of ​​the front wheel. For the rear wheels, such flaps are not produced.

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Installation

Mobile versions of this part are quite easy to install, but the process of fixing stationary ones requires especially close attention. Before starting work, the rim brakes must be disengaged so that the rear fender can be attached without any problems. Then you remove the screw located under the seat and you need to put the element on the seat post. The front fender is easily bolted into place at the fork crown. It is important to calculate the force with which the bolts are tightened. If you tighten it too much, then the fasteners can be damaged and become unusable, in the opposite case. it will dangle freely and interfere with driving.

Most often, the option of installing one part is not chosen, it is more efficient to put a complete pair. This will provide the best protection against splashes and dirt. If you plan to install a roof rack, you must first install the rear wing. In the case of an already installed trunk, it must be removed.

  • Nuts;
  • Screws;
  • Screwdrivers;
  • Keys to fit.

Now the question of how to mount the fenders on a road or road bike has been resolved. It is not difficult to choose the appropriate option, because modern manufacturers produce a sufficient range of such devices. You can also make wings yourself, but this is a rather laborious process. Correct fit will ensure the functionality of the part and will not render it useless, weighing down the bike.

Whether wings are needed on a bicycle or not. everyone decides for himself. For example, a bicycle without wings is not interesting to me. Washing all my clothes after every cycling trip is not for me.

I was interested in the last picture. Usually glossy wings like these break from a slight bend, but here someone bends the wing in half, and it does not break. I took the risk of doing this with my wing. It bent in the same way as in the picture, and unbent, while at the place of the bend there are not even traces left! So the quality of these fenders is pretty good.

There are different types of rack attachment. In the photo. metal. My wings are plastic. They allow you to slightly adjust the length of the strut within 2 cm and supposedly separate themselves in problematic cases (apparently, if something gets between the wheel and the wing or struts).

Attaching the fenders to the frame.

The fixing problems started from the very beginning. My frame has no holes for attaching full size fenders! The steel struts and their attachment to the fenders are made in such a way that the loop goes straight to the wheel axle. Apparently, the manufacturer assumed that the axle was threaded through the hinges and tightened along with the wheel. But this cannot be done on my bike. First, the left and right sides are asymmetrical there. The side with the rooster is even, and there you can somehow install a loop, and the other side is curly, and an attempt to clamp the loop of the racks there leads to the fact that the racks are not standing vertically, but at an angle, moving away from the wing to the side. In addition, the hinges of the struts are thick, and it is impossible to tighten the wheel with them, the nut simply does not twist along the entire length of the thread, which greatly affects safety. Another problem was that just at the place of these hinges there are springs centering the tie, but these springs do not pass through the loops in diameter, they just get chewed there. Therefore, this mounting option had to be discarded. The racks could not reach the hole for attaching the trunk, since it is too far from the wheel axis, to which the racks should ideally go. There are no other holes there, and there are no holes on the fork at all, except for the one on the gorilla, so I had to be smart.

Abandoned furniture was found at a local dump. There were aluminum corners bolted to the particle board panels. I unscrewed them, they are very light, their weight is practically not felt on the palm (much lighter than steel products). From one corner with an angle grinder, I made four adapters, drilling two holes in each in the right places:

An important point. Although the axle of the wheel is smaller, the large hole was drilled so that the spring could move freely in it, otherwise it would be bullshit when installing the wheel. The shape of the adapter at the large hole should be such that from the side where the seat for the nut is not flat, the adapter can lie flat (parallel to the wheel) and not bulge to the side. A small hole is drilled to fit the diameter of the bolt handy for attaching the strut hinge to the adapter. Sawed off the bolts to the minimum required size so as not to interfere with the movement of the chain and cassette, used washers on both sides.

Stop Wetting Yourself! SKS Raceblade Pro XL Fenders

The bike in the photos is turned upside down as the photos were taken while the fenders were being mounted.

Since the loop is displaced from the center of the wheel by a few centimeters, the racks will have to be filed a few centimeters, one more, the other less. I sawed so that there was 3.5 cm between the wheel and the wing. It makes no sense to do more, since from the front side the frame restricts the movement of the wing to that extent. Doing less is dangerous, as dirt on the wheel can rub against the fender and make it difficult to move. Cutting off more and reducing the gap is always possible, but it will not work to build up the racks, so it is better to start with a larger gap and, if necessary, reduce it later (if the wings will not catch dirt).

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Plastic fasteners are screwed to the wing with complete self-tapping screws, and steel struts are tightened by hand with a plastic nut. Adequate clearance between fender and tire.

But the mount of the struts is initially located quite close to the wheel (about 1 cm). On wide tires, this can be a serious problem. So, Rapid Rob 2.25 lies almost close to these plastic mounts. On the bumps, they will probably scratch with protruding cubes. When mounting the front wing, I found a simple solution (read below), with 2.0 everything became normal, but for 2.25 I would still not recommend buying these wings, or you will have to make homemade strut mounts (more widely spaced on the outer side of the wing).

In addition to the twin steel struts, the rear wing has two more mounts. One. at the height of the trunk through the supplied plastic half-coupler. There is an unthreaded hole on the frame in this place, so the bolt and nut for this fastening must be selected by yourself. The other. at the very bottom. the hole on the wing is aligned with the hole in the frame and tightened with a bolt that is not included in the kit. The frame has already been threaded. There were no problems with the fastening itself in these places, but the fender squeezed the front derailleur, and it did not switch. I had to tinker to move the wing away from the derailleur closer to the wheel. In my case, a plastic spacer and a few washers between the wing and frame helped.

Fitting SKS Raceblade Pro/XL Mudguards #howto

As for the front wing. The top mount attaches to the hole in the gorilla. Honestly, when buying a bike, I was looking for one that has this hole, since many forks now do not have such a hole, and there you have to tinker with another homemade mount. But there are no holes for attaching the wing struts on my fork. The original idea was the same. to make adapters from the wheel axle. There, too, a non-flat seat for the nut, so it had to be filled with additional washers of the appropriate thickness. To be honest, I don’t really like the fact that something is hung on the wheel axle. The main disadvantage of such a fastening is that the wheel cannot be removed without twisting the nut and without removing everything that is on it from the axle, while small centering springs can be easily lost, especially if the wheel is removed in the field. But on the rear wheel so far I do not see alternatives, and on the front wheel I will try to make clamps for the fork in order to free the axle from foreign inserts. Maybe clamps are less aesthetically pleasing, but more correct? But so far I haven’t found beautiful plastic clamps, and I don’t want to make a tractor out of a bicycle by molding heavy steel water clamps onto it, so for now I’m driving with my aluminum adapters:

The problem of the closeness of the wing-pillar attachment to the tire on the front wheel was more noticeable than on the rear. On the front fender there is not a double strut, but a single strut, so that at the slightest vibration, the wing began to play on the sides, and these plastic pieces hit the side teeth of the tire. Neither one nor the other benefit from this, of course. The only thing I came up with was bent the post in the place where it fits into the plastic fasteners, as shown in the photo. After that, the distance between the tire and the strut increased, the wing was fixed more rigidly, and nothing clings to anything. It turned out quite practical, so I also bent the struts on the rear wheel, as far as possible from the wheel.

At first it seemed to me that the front fender was not low enough to protect the feet from dirt. In practice, no problems were noticed. When driving through puddles, feet remain clean. As if by the will of fate, a few weeks later I found a rubber bike mudguard (branded) rolled in the sand on a forest road, which fit perfectly into my wing, but since I often have to moose in the forest, drag my bike through fallen trees, I decided not to put it down for now. because it is during forest losism that you understand why the wing ends exactly where it ends. If it were a little lower, it would cling to everything.

For comparison, Schwalbe Hurricane Performance 2.0 fender and tire width:

Well, to complete the review, a photo with wings. I can’t help but notice that the thin steel struts still do not provide rigidity, and the wings are rather wobbly. They haven’t touched the wheels yet, but it’s still unpleasant. Ideally, you should strive to arrange the wings so that these racks are as short as possible, but, alas, this does not always work out. You can click on the photo to see a larger image.

Real world tests.

Especially, of course, I did not climb into the mud, but the circumstances were such that I had to overcome several flooded areas, I decided to take a photo for this article at the same time. I was quite pleased with the result. I drove out of the viscous mud absolutely clean, I didn’t even get my shoes dirty. Schwalbe Hurricane Performance, on the other hand, barely coped with the task. My feeling was that about 80% of the forces spent on pedaling was wasted, that is, the wheels just spun in place, barely maintaining movement. If it weren’t for the fenders, the rear wheel would definitely spit dirt all over my back. It’s amazing how I got out of the stream shown in the fourth photo at all. The exit from it was viscous and very slippery, the wheels were strongly sucked in, when they were rotated they were spinning in vain. If the swamp were a couple of meters longer, I would have to dismount directly into this mud. However, I will not completely criticize Hurricane. Firstly, they are not mud, but road, and the fact that they can pull out of a quick slippery swamp with their few teeth located only on the side is, as it were, even a plus in comparison with the classic road tire, which is generally useless for such places. Secondly, last year I had similar problems on the toothy Rapid Rob in these places. they also slipped noticeably, only less. As for the wings, they pay off. The fenders do not prevent dirty wheels from spinning, but they keep both the rider and the bike clean. The only thing I don’t like specifically about these fenders is the insufficient stiffness of the steel struts. Because of them, the front wing vibrates from side to side on irregularities, sometimes creating strange sounds such as bouncing.

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Installing a Rock Shox MTB Fender on My Bike

Application. Fastening the front fender with clamps.

Supplement March 6, 2018.

The fenders are still on the bike. I did not install the clamps, I left them as they were originally assembled. In general, I am satisfied with the wings, but I want to note one feature. Pine cones. If you drive on a road covered with cones, they are somehow tightened between the wheel and the wing, and the very protection that I wrote about at the beginning of the article is triggered. The wing is detached from the struts using a plastic connector. According to the manufacturer’s idea, this connector is disconnected and then snapped back by hand, and in fact this is usually the case, but, unfortunately, during the season I have already broken two such connectors with the help of cones. the thin tendrils of the clamp break off there and they simply stop fixing. The wing begins to fly out of the retainer on each bump, rattles and interferes with movement, so this situation is very annoying on a long journey. Of course, on my return home, I just filled all these connectors with superglue and they no longer come apart, but those who are not familiar with this problem should keep this in mind. After gluing all the quick-release clamps with superglue, I no longer had problems with bumps.

Some installation features

If the protective elements need to be installed on a bike with rim brakes, then they will need to be slightly loosened or, in general, turned off and only after that proceed with installation.

In some cases, a reflector or corner reflector may be located at the point of attachment of a fixed wing. In this situation, there is nothing terrible and irreparable, moreover, the length of the bolt is sufficient for both of these elements to be fixed.

Installing the front wing is most often reduced to performing the attachment at only one point. Designs that are equipped with a so-called mustache are not affected. For a wing on the rear wheel, two fasteners are usually intended: the element is attached to the frame with a bolt, and to the bottom of the seat tube it is attached with its lower part. Some manufacturers equip their products with special arc-shaped latches.

If there is a trunk in the bicycle, the wing is installed under it, if the design of the bicycle, wing and the trunk itself allows this.

You can remove vibration on the wing and eliminate displacement during intense rides with rubber bands, ties and other elements that will pull the wing to the trunk structure.

Installation principles

Fitting the fenders to a bike is, in principle, simple. Even a beginner cyclist with a minimum set of tools can easily cope with this. It will be a little more difficult to find a high-quality model and determine the type of installation that will be suitable for a specific situation. The whole variety of fenders can be divided into two large groups: stationary and quick-detachable.

Bicycles Forward

How to attach fenders to a Forward bike is a topical question for many owners of these solid bikes. To handle the front wheel, follow these instructions:

  • It is necessary to install and fasten the wing on the bracket using M5 × 10 bolts, not forgetting about the spacer plastic washers. A similar procedure applies to both wings.
  • The wing can be mounted in the hole in the fork stem. To do this, you need to install the M6 ​​× 40 bolt through the washer in the bracket.
  • The lower support sleeve is installed on the bolt, while a special protrusion, which is located on the sleeve, should be located in the slot on the bracket.
  • M6 nut is installed in a special hole in the upper support sleeve.
  • In turn, the upper support sleeve is installed on the lower one so that they are in contact with each other with their beveled surfaces.
  • Bolt M6 × 40 is tightened for threaded connection with the corresponding M6 nut.
  • The front fender should have special adapters with different diameters. It is necessary to select the adapter that will fit the stem bore.
  • The assembled protective element is installed with an adapter into the rod hole, and the M6 ​​× 40 bolt is tightened. The installation of the front fender on the Forward bike is now complete.
  • To install the rear wing, it is necessary to install an M6 nut in the lower bracket, which is placed on the knee and the unit is connected using an M6 × 25 bolt with an intermediate washer. The bolt can be tightened.
  • Next, a clamp is installed on the other side of the knee. In the process of connection, it is necessary to use an M6 × 25 bolt, a washer and an M6 nut.
  • An M5 nut is installed in the mounting holes on the lower bracket, and then the wing is placed. M5 × 12 bolts and plastic washers are used to connect this assembly.
  • The M6 ​​nut is installed in the clamp bore. To connect this node, you need to take a bolt M6 × 25.
  • An adapter with a diameter that will fit the size of the seatpost is installed in the clamp.
  • The assembled wing can be mounted on the seat tube by tightening the fixing bolt.