Installing brakes v brake on a bike

How to install v-brakes on an old bike

We continue cycling. This time we will do something more serious than dismantling the wheels. installing a v-brake (a modern hand bicycle brake) on an old Soviet bicycle fork. The same Kama “fig knows what year” acts as a test sample, on which, of course, fasteners on the fork are not provided.

The easiest option is to weld two nuts. But if there is no welding machine, then I will tell you how to make simple fasteners without injuring the fork! Before starting work, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of v-brakes on a live sample. You cannot drill a plug!

1) We buy v-brake brakes. Not cheap Chinese meat, but an average level with a minimum of nuts.

installing, brakes, brake, bike

This is how a half of a normal V-break looks like (if it is in Russian). The brake is universal, there is enough height to deliver a classic low wing. I will not say about any plastic nonsense.

Installing V Brakes on a bicycle

2) The brakes can be fixed on a metal horseshoe, and then clamped on the fork (as is the case with modern forks), or simulate welded blanks. Let’s dwell on the second option and make a clamp from duralumin plates.

Dural or duralumin is a soft alloy, and this is its advantage, because the clamp will be easy to pull off, and it will repeat the entire contour of the fork strut, which means it will sit firmly and will not remember it. By the way, the duralumin is cut without any problems with scissors for metal, the grinder is not required.

3) We drill a strip of duralumin in three places, try it on a fork and cut it off:

You should not thread a screw (as in the picture), but a screw with a turnkey head so that the tapering walls of the strip clamp it.

The length of the bolt should be taken taking into account the depth of the brake, a few washers and nuts. Thickness does not really matter, you can get it by heat shrinkage.

In the final form, the clip for one fork post looks like this:

Here, while making the clamp, I try on the brake fit:

There is also such a moment: there is a return spring on the brake half. For her, you can immediately figure out the fixation on the clamp, but I did not bother and pulled it back with a clamp on the fork.

4) Turn the bike over and start dancing with the positioning of the clamp:

I marked the height with electrical tape. I put the clamps in the opposite direction, as on steep folds =). It is necessary to pull the nuts well in order to exclude the slightest backlash. As I wrote above, the duralumin is superbly pulled together.

5) We mount the cable. The rubber grip on the handlebars of a Soviet bicycle is removed with a thin screwdriver and such and such a mother. It is not necessary to pour water:

You just need to pierce in a circle to form air blockages and turn it well.

We put the brake lever, put the rubber band back on (you can drip oil for the chain on the steering wheel (then wipe it slightly with a rag) so that the handle goes back more easily), if it turns, you can put it on a selikon (not required):

We fix the cable on the brake halves, adjust the pads, debug:

Adjusting the rim brakes

Mountain bikes use a v-brake braking system. by its example, we will consider the principles of tuning, as it is also available on other bicycles with rim brakes. The difference can only consist in a different arrangement of bolts and screws that will need to be tightened / tightened.

Note: it is important to observe three main rules:

  • the pads should be parallel to the rim;
  • the gap between the rim and the block should not be more or less than 1 mm;
  • the pads should be symmetrical with respect to each other.

How to achieve these guidelines when adjusting rim brakes on a bicycle:

  • You need to find a hex nut. it fixes the pads. To loosen it and set the brake pads in the desired position, you need to press the brake lever and watch how the shoe touches the rim. By releasing the brake lever, the shoe can be set to the desired position. it moves up, down and at an angle.
  • The distance between the block and the rim of the wheel should not be more than 1 mm, although in some models of bicycles there are also 2-3 mm. exact information about a specific vehicle can be obtained either from the instructions for it, or on the Internet for technical characteristics. It should be for Honor that the wheel should be braked even with the smallest pressure on the brake lever. That is, if the wheel stops only when the brake lever is fully pressed “all the way”, then this is incorrect.

After carrying out all the specified work, it is imperative to check the operation of the brake system. First, this is done at idle speed. lift the front wheel up, spin it up and press the handle sharply, then do the same with the rear wheel. The next step is to check the operation of the brake system “in action”. get on the bike and ride 3-5 meters, braking sharply. If the bike stops even when the brake lever is pressed slightly, then the system has been serviced correctly.

V-brake setting

Rim brakes have a very simple principle of operation. two brake pads installed opposite each other and parallel to the wheel, and a rim between them. Pressing the brake lever, the force is transmitted through the system of cables and shirts to the brake levers, which press the pads against the wheel rim, stopping it.

The main thing in the high-quality operation of rim brakes is the high-quality pressing of the pads to the rim. This can be adjusted by fastening the pads. The fastener consists of a set of washers, gaskets and a nut, it allows you to fix the shoe at the desired angle.

To adjust, loosen the nut on each shoe slightly so that the shoe can be moved with your fingers, but it will not move. Place the block parallel to the wheel rim, note that it must not touch the tire (the distance between the block and the tire must be at least 1 mm.).

  • If you have soft rubber brake pads, they will deform when braking. Therefore, they must be installed so that the leading edge of these pads is 1 mm. closer to the rim than the rear. To do this, place a 1-1.5 mm thick gasket under the rear parts of the pads before adjusting. For example, a piece of rubber cut from a worn bicycle tube.
  • If you have brake pads with a rigid base that do not deform when braking, you must install strictly parallel to the rim.

Then firmly press the brake lever and tighten the nuts on the pads, carefully watch that they do not change their position at the same time.

Then look at the brake levers. Squeeze and release the brake levers several times, the levers should converge and diverge equally. This can be adjusted with the spring tension screws located at the base of the lever. We turn the adjusting screw on the lever that deflects too little, and unscrew it if the lever deflects too much.

In order to remove the wheel, you do not need to unscrew the brake cable, you just need to release it from the clamp. To do this, squeeze the brake levers with your hands and remove the rigid part of the cable jacket from the slot.

V-brake setting

When set up correctly, v-brakes will perform just as well, and some models even better than disc brakes! The design features of the v-brakes allow adjusting the pads in almost any plane, but this is not possible with caliper rim brakes. The price of rim brakes is significantly less than that of disc brakes, they weigh less and are easier to adjust than disc brakes

The pads should be replaced with new ones when their braking surface is erased to the level of the grooves for the drain of dirt, that is, when the working surface becomes completely flat. And if the pads are worn out on only one side, this means that they were installed incorrectly, and they will also need to be replaced.

First, loosen the screw holding the cable.

The main thing when installing a conventional brake shoe is to put on in the correct sequence all the washers and gaskets that make up their fasteners. Also note that some models of pads can be divided into left and right, this is indicated on the pads themselves, take this into account when installing.

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Replacing cartridge pads is even easier. They have a metal base and only the rubber pad needs to be replaced. There is a locking cotter pin on such pads (do not lose it), you need to pull it out and slide out the rubber pad. Then insert new pads and secure with a cotter pin. When installing the trims, pay attention to the indicators for the right and left side.

After replacing the pads, screw the adjusting drum on the brake lever fully and unscrew it one turn. Squeeze the brake levers with your fingers, reinstall the cable and secure with the screw. The distance from the wheel rim to the shoes should be 2 mm.

Rim brakes have a very simple principle of operation. two brake pads installed opposite each other and parallel to the wheel, and between them the rim Pressing the brake lever force through a system of cables and shirts. transmitted to the brake levers, which press the pads against the wheel rim, stopping it.

For smooth operation of the rim brakes, you need to monitor the integrity of the cable and the absence of “eights” on the wheel. If at least one fiber breaks on the cable, it must be replaced. The cable should move freely in the shirt and if it gets stuck it is necessary to change either the cable or the shirt.

The main thing in the high-quality operation of rim brakes is the high-quality pressing of the pads to the rim. This can be adjusted by fastening the pads. The fastener consists of a set of washers, gaskets and a nut, it allows you to fix the shoe at the desired angle.

To adjust, loosen the nut on each shoe slightly so that the shoe can be moved with your fingers, but it will not move. Place the block parallel to the wheel rim, note that it must not touch the tire (the distance between the block and the tire must be at least 1 mm.).

  • If you have soft rubber brake pads, they will deform when braking. Therefore, they must be installed so that the leading edge of these pads is 1 mm. closer to the rim than the rear. To do this, place a 1-1.5 mm thick gasket under the rear parts of the pads before adjusting. For example, a piece of rubber cut from a worn bicycle tube.
  • If you have brake pads with a rigid base that do not deform when braking, you must install strictly parallel to the rim.

Then firmly press the brake lever and tighten the nuts on the pads, carefully watch that they do not change their position at the same time.

Then look at the brake levers. Squeeze and release the brake levers several times, the levers should converge and diverge equally. This can be adjusted with the spring tension screws located at the base of the lever. We turn the adjusting screw on the lever that deflects too little, and unscrew it if the lever deflects too much.

In order to remove the wheel, you do not need to unscrew the brake cable, you just need to release it from the clamp. To do this, squeeze the brake levers with your hands and remove the rigid part of the cable jacket from the slot.

How to self-adjust your brakes to improve performance.

This procedure is not complicated and everyone can do it.

How to set up rim brakes on a bike

The braking system is one of the most important technical components of a bicycle. The safety of both the cyclist and other road users directly depends on its condition. Good brakes are essential in any situation, from riding in parks to tough cycling.

In the modern classical sense, a bicycle brake is a pressure mechanism that acts on the wheel rim. In fact, there are several types of brakes, however v-brake (rim) is the most common option on bicycles of various classes.

How to check and adjust the brakes

There are clear instructions for checking and adjusting the brake system of a bicycle. If you stick to it, then the whole process will take little time and will be effective.

Procedure for checking and adjusting the brake system of a bicycle:

  • Dry brake test. It is necessary to raise the front wheel and, having unwound it, press the left brake lever. If the wheel comes to a sudden stop during this test, the braking system is in order and no maintenance is required. Honor has one caveat. if the brake lever touches the steering wheel, then you just need to pull the cable. The operability of the rear wheel brake system is checked in the same manner. To tighten the cable, you need to use curly bolts. just tighten them a little and, if only minor adjustments are required, this will correct the situation. It often happens that such a minimum adjustment does not work. in this case, we look where the end of the cable is on the bike (it is always longer than necessary in advance), unscrew the bolt that holds it. It remains only to tighten part of the cable with pliers and tighten the bolt, applying the possible force.
  • Checking the brake pads. After the brake levers have been tested, the condition of the brake pads should be carefully examined. However, the order of action can be changed. first work with the pads, and then with the handles.

The setting of the brake system for rim and disc type is different, since different rotating mechanisms and pads are used.

Setting up disc brakes

As a rule, adjustment of disc brakes consists in periodically tightening the cable. But often you have to replace the pads, however, on disc brakes they wear out longer than on rim brakes. First you need to find out which specific disc brakes are installed on the bike. brake pad adjustments for hydraulic and mechanical systems will differ.

Experts recommend taking note of the following points:

  • If there are hydraulic disc brakes on the bike, then replacing the pads may not be necessary. they are able to do it on their own. But there is one caveat to Honor. if the hydraulic system is closed, then you will have to adjust the pads in manual mode. for this, special valves are provided.
  • If you have to adjust disc mechanical brakes, you will need to pull the cable according to the above instructions and check the location of the pads. the distance between them and the disc should be within 0.2-0.4 mm.
  • In order to adjust the pads with disc mechanical brakes, you need to use special bolts. by tightening them, you can see how the pad moves. You need to be especially careful when setting the distance between the pad and the disc. 0.3 mm is too small, it is easy to make a mistake.

After carrying out the work, be sure to check the operation of the brake system in action. ride your bike for a few meters and try to brake. If the cable was overtightened, or the pads are too close to the disc, then too sharp braking will occur. this is a “surprise” in which the cyclist begins to move forward, but without his vehicle. Therefore, during a test drive, you need to be extremely careful and careful, if necessary, the disc brake system is adjusted again taking into account previous errors.

Adjusting the brakes on a bicycle

Adjusting the brakes on a bicycle should be carried out regularly. such maintenance will guarantee the safe operation of the vehicle. There are two main types of brakes on modern bicycles. rim and disc brakes, but disc brakes can be mechanical or hydraulic. The process of their maintenance will depend on what type of brake system is installed on a particular bike.

Brake Caliper Mounting & Adjustment. Linear Pull & V Brake

Braking system characteristics

The following terms are used to qualitatively describe the operation of rim brakes:

  • impact force;
  • efficiency;
  • wear resistance;
  • modulation;
  • service requirements;
  • comparative features.

The force of impact, or braking, is a parameter that shows how much the brake can clamp the rim so that the bike cannot be moved. Maximum effort is required only to completely stop and lock in place. On the road, the effort is not fully used to adjust the speed. The range of action on the wheel rim by pressing the knob is called modulation, or accuracy, of the brakes.

An active cyclist uses his vehicle not only in dry and cloudless weather. Rain, mud, sand. everyone who rolls out their bike on long trips will have to face this. The effectiveness of brakes allows you to describe their behavior in a wide variety of conditions.

Durability is a measure of durability, taking into account the prescriptions for the use of the bicycle as a whole. Timely maintenance can increase the service life of the braking system. Service Requirements provide guidance on how to properly install and adjust the machine, how often to do this, and guidance on how to replace parts.

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Disc Mechanical Bicycle Brakes

Disc mechanics is the following design.

  • Brake handle. Mounted on the handlebars (attached with a clamp) of the bicycle and is designed to transfer the force of pressing the hand to the brake pads.
  • Cable adjuster with lock nut. The cable adjuster is designed to change the tension force of the cable of mechanical disc brakes. Locknut. for fixing the regulator.
  • Brake lever adjuster. Allows you to adjust the distance from the brake lever to the handlebars, thereby making it possible to set a comfortable position directly under the length of the cyclist’s fingers.
  • Cable shirt. Serves to protect the cable from damage and dirt.
  • Cable. Required to transmit the movement of the brake lever to the brake caliper.
  • Cable holder. The place where the cable is attached and clamped with a fixing bolt.
  • Caliper. A mechanism that activates the brake pads when the cable is pulled.
  • Brake pads. They are metal platforms with an organic or metallized substance applied to them. Inserted into the caliper.
  • Adapter. Serves as a kind of layer between the caliper and the bike frame.
  • Rotor (brake disc). Mounted on the wheel hub.

Check the condition of the cables and shirts

This item is intended solely for mechanics. Before adjusting the mechanical disc brakes on your bike, you should carefully check the condition of the cables and shirts. If the cable is damaged, namely, if it is fluffed, broken individual fibers are observed, then it should be replaced without fail. It does not matter whether the cable changes or not, it must be lubricated before adjusting the brake. We also inspect the cable jacket. If cracks or tears are visible on it, then it is better to replace it.

Remove dirt and oil from brake pads and rotor

During cycling, over time, dirt and oil accumulate on the rotor and brake pads, which impairs the braking performance of disc mechanics or hydraulics. Therefore, before adjusting the disc brakes, remove it from these surfaces. For this, you can use fine sandpaper. Remove the rotor from the wheel and clean the surface on both sides in a circular motion. We perform the same operation with pads (of course, on the one hand). Do not be too zealous, it is enough to remove a thin layer. After you have completed this procedure, try not to touch the pads and rotor with your hands or oily objects.

Disc Hydraulic Bicycle Brakes

Disc hydraulics are very similar to their mechanical counterparts. The main difference is that the force applied to the brake lever is transferred to the pads not with a cable, but thanks to DOT4 brake fluid (on Avid, Hayes, Helix brakes) or mineral oil (on Shimano brakes). Next, consider the design of hydraulic disc brakes.

  • Brake handle. Actuates a piston that presses on the brake fluid.
  • Brake lever adjuster. As with disc mechanics, it is designed to adjust the position of the handle relative to the steering wheel.
  • Master cylinder. It consists of several parts. An expansion tank with a lid serves as a storage for the brake fluid. The cap is used when filling and bleeding the brakes. Inside there is also a piston with a cuff and a return spring.
  • Hydroline. It is a durable hose that connects the master cylinder and the caliper.
  • Caliper. A mechanism that, when pressure appears in the hydraulic line, activates the pistons that push the brake pads.
  • Brake pads. Used to convert frictional force into thermal energy, thereby stopping the bike.
  • Adapter. The part that attaches the brake caliper to the fork or bike frame.
  • Rotor. It is a perforated metal disc, on which, when the handle is pressed, the pads rub.

Check the condition of the brake line for leaks

This item is exclusively for hydraulics. Before adjusting the hydraulic disc brakes of the bicycle, inspect the brake hose for damage (it is advisable to replace it, even if the damage is minor), and also check that there are no oil / brake fluid leaks at the joints of the hydraulic line with the caliper and the master cylinder. Another place where the brake fluid can poison is the rod going from the brake lever to the piston (if the cuffs are leaky). Well, after removing the brake pads, check the absence of leaks on the caliper.

Adjusting and adjusting the brake

Adjusting the brakes involves more than one tensioned brake cable. An important part in setting up the brake system is replacing and adjusting the brake pads.

The brake pads are replaced when the surface is worn out. Disc brakes wear much slower system than rim brakes.

For guaranteed reliability in braking, adjustment of mechanical disc brakes begins after tensioning the cable. When tensioning the cable, take into account:

  • the distance from the brake pads to the disc is 0.2-0.4 mm;
  • pads are symmetrically located relative to the disc plane.

To do this, after tensioning the cable, check the distance between the shoe and the disc.

The pads are adjustable with bolts, to move them to the desired range, tighten and loosen the bolt.

After checking, the gap between the pads and the disc is set so that they do not touch when the wheel rotates.

And most importantly, make sure that the pads provide normal and timely braking of the bike.

We also recommend watching a video on adjusting the brakes:

We continue cycling. This time we will do something more serious than dismantling the wheels. installing a v-brake (a modern hand bicycle brake) on an old Soviet bicycle fork. The same Kama “fig knows what year” acts as a test sample, which, of course, does not provide for fastening on the fork.

The easiest option is to weld two nuts. But if there is no welding machine, then I will tell you how to make simple fasteners without injuring the fork! Before starting work, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of v-brakes on a live sample. You cannot drill a plug!

1) We buy v-brake brakes. Not cheap Chinese meat, but an average level with a minimum of nuts.

This is how a half of a normal V-break looks like (if it is in Russian). The brake is universal, there is enough height to deliver a classic low wing. I will not say about any plastic nonsense.

2) The brakes can be fixed on a metal horseshoe, and then clamped on the fork (as is the case with modern forks), or simulate welded blanks. Let’s dwell on the second option and make a clamp from duralumin plates.

Dural or duralumin is a soft alloy, and this is its advantage, because the clamp will be easy to pull off, and it will repeat the entire contour of the fork strut, which means it will sit firmly and will not remember it. By the way, the duralumin is cut without any problems with scissors for metal, the grinder is not required.

3) We drill a strip of duralumin in three places, try it on a fork and cut it off:

You should not thread a screw (as in the picture), but a screw with a turnkey head so that the tapering walls of the strip clamp it.

The length of the bolt should be taken taking into account the depth of the brake, a few washers and nuts. Thickness does not really matter, you can get it by heat shrinkage.

In the final form, the clip for one fork post looks like this:

Here, while making the clamp, I try on the brake fit:

There is also such a moment: there is a return spring on the brake half. For her, you can immediately figure out the fixation on the clamp, but I did not bother and pulled it back with a clamp on the fork.

4) Turn the bike over and start dancing with the positioning of the clamp:

I marked the height with electrical tape. I put the clamps in the opposite direction, as on steep folds =). It is necessary to pull the nuts well in order to exclude the slightest backlash. As I wrote above, the duralumin is superbly pulled together.

5) We mount the cable. The rubber grip on the handlebars of a Soviet bicycle is removed with a thin screwdriver and such and such a mother. It is not necessary to pour water:

You just need to pierce in a circle to form air blockages and turn it well.

We put the brake lever, put the rubber band back on (you can drip oil for the chain on the steering wheel (then wipe it slightly with a rag) so that the handle goes back more easily), if it turns, you can put it on a selikon (not required):

We fix the cable on the brake halves, adjust the pads, debug:

So that is all. Next. test drive.
The attentive reader will ask how v-brake behaves on a painted steel rim. Normal, no squeals. Normal brake pads need to be taken and not mess with noname rubber bands.

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How to properly adjust?

It is important for Honor that the installation of the caliper must be done in such a way that the brake pads do not touch the rotor. Do not overtighten the hexagons when installing it, they should “float” slightly. To get the caliper in the right place, you should clamp the brake disc with pads and try to spin the wheel back and forth. The brake pads should extend equally, this can be checked by pressing the brake lever. The bolts must be tightened alternately. After pressing the caliper, it is necessary to sharply push the handle 15-30 times in order to bring the pads to the brake disc (at the working distance). It is also important to check if there is any friction between the disc and any of the pads. To do this, you need to spin the wheel with the handle released. If friction is present, loosen the caliper bolts and move it slightly towards the rubbing pad. If there is such a need, then you can tighten the bolts again and repeat the above steps.

Is it so difficult to set up disc brakes on your own, or is it worth using a specialist? Our article will help you adjust the brakes yourself, no worse than a professional bicycle mechanic.
The setting is made according to the following points:

Preparing to set up
2. Center the caliper
3. We expose the gap to the fixed block
4. We expose the gap to the movable block
5. We tighten the cable fixing bolt
6. Adjusting the position of the handle
7. Fine adjustment of a fixed brake shoe
8. Checking the brakes.

First, a little theory
Disc brake caliper mounts to frame or fork come in two standards, PM or IS. The photo shows the fundamental differences: Often, all modern brake calipers come with the PM mounting standard. It is much easier to configure with respect to the location of the disc. If the IS mount on your frame or fork is not a problem, because there are adapters that will help correct the situation: As you can see, there are IS / PM and PM / PM adapters and if everything is clear with the former, then the latter are needed in order for your frame / forks with PM mount for 160mm rotor, set brakes with 180mm rotor. Important! Read the instructions and check what is the maximum rotor size allowed by the manufacturer of the frame / fork.
There are also adapters with the designations front or rear. These adapters are designed for the front or rear wheel respectively. Unlabeled adapters are universal.
The arrow on the adapter indicates which end of the adapter should be directed upwards, take this into account when installing! With the adapters sorted out, let’s move on to the brakes. A distinctive feature of disc mechanics is that when the brake is pressed, only one pad in the caliper approaches the rotor, and the second is stationary. In this regard, disc mechanics requires more precise tuning and periodic adjustment of the position of the pads. After a while, the block, which is always in a static position, will be erased and its distance from the disc will increase: When braking, the disc will bend more towards the stationary block, which noticeably affects the quality of braking. You don’t need to readjust the brakes to fix this problem. The red in / out wheel will help you adjust the position of the static pad. If there is no such a twist on the brakes, then there must be an adjusting bolt for a hexagon or Torx (as is the case with BB7).
But back to our setup

  • Preparing to set up

To ensure that your adjustments do not get lost, make sure that the adapter is well screwed to the frame / fork, the rotor is even and well screwed to the hub, and the wheel is securely fixed in the frame / fork.

  • Centering the caliper

After you have verified that all connections are secure, the first step is to align the caliper exactly centered in relation to the disc. To do this, loosen the bolts securing the caliper to the adapter and center the rotor relative to the sides of the caliper. The rotor should be exactly in the middle, then the pads will wear evenly.
Lock the caliper. Important! If your caliper is centered, you do not need to repeat this procedure.!

  • We expose the gap to the fixed block

In order to set the clearance to the fixed brake shoe using the red adjustment or Torx wrench, bring the fixed shoe as close to the surface of the rotor as possible, but not so that it bends under the load of the shoe, but only slightly touches it. By turning the adjustment clockwise, you move the shoe closer to the rotor, and counterclockwise you move the shoe away.

  • We expose the gap to the movable block

First, loosen the bolt securing the cable in the caliper (highlighted in green) so that you can move the pad approach lever with your hands and the cable does not interfere with you.
Now rotate clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the red gooseneck adjustment so that the proximity lever grips the rotor between the pads somewhere in the middle of its travel. Important! Not all mechanical brakes have a sliding shoe adjustment. If it is not there, just set the approach lever so that the rotor is clamped somewhere in the middle of the brake lever travel.

  • We tighten the cable fixing bolt

Using pliers, tighten the cable and tighten the cable fixing bolt.

  • Adjusting the handle position

Use the black twist on the brake lever to set a comfortable distance from the grip to the handlebars at which your brake will be applied. By unscrewing the twist, you move the brake lever away from the grip when the brake engages. If you are unable to get a comfortable position with this twist, you should readjust the brake using step 5!

  • Fine adjustment of a fixed brake shoe

Return to step 3 and unscrew the adjustment of the position of the fixed block by half a turn so that the rotor does not catch it when rotating.

  • Checking the brakes

Check if everything suits you in braking. To do this, do not fly to the nearest Trail, you can just ride right next to the brake setting.
If everything suits you, congratulations, you did it! Was it that hard?

Original publication. on the website bb30.ru

Adjusting the cable length

Before starting the adjustment, check the brake attachment. In case of slight unbalance, the cable can be adjusted on the handlebars of the bicycle. just tighten the mount on the brake lever with a shaped bolt.

  • Checking the positions of the regulators. they must be screwed in the required position.
  • In the area where the cable is attached to the brake lever, unscrew the fixing bolt with a hex wrench.
  • Unscrew the head screw on the brake lever.
  • Remove the cable from the shirt, check it for integrity, replace if necessary.
  • Thread the cable back into the sheath, check for freedom of movement.
  • Connect the end of the cable with a round attachment to the brake lever and screw the head screw.
  • Set the switch to operating mode.
  • On the other end of the cable, pull a rubber or aluminum boot so that the narrow part is directed towards the cable. Secure the cable with the fixing screw.
  • Tighten the adjusting bolts temporarily.
  • Using the pliers, set the optimal level of cable tension: the brake must immediately react to the pressure of the lever.
  • Hexagon adjusts the location of the brake pad relative to the disc or rim at a distance of up to 1 mm between them.
  • After that, the rotation of the drum and the reaction of the pads are checked, which should not touch the disc when the brake is released.
  • When the lever is pressed, the brake pads only touch the disc area.
  • After fixing the cable in the required position, tighten the adjusting screw.
  • Tighten the adjusters on the brake lever to finish.

After fixing the cable, a small piece of the cord remains, in order to prevent it from entering the bicycle system, it must be wound or cut, leaving 8 cm in stock.