How to snap a lock on a bicycle chain

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Replacing the bike chain

The first bicycles had one gear, many are modern. multi-speed. What is the difference between the one and the other? It should be noted right away that from the point of view of the type of chain used, bicycles with planetary hubs can be attributed to single-speed bicycles: in the chain part of the drive there is one leading and one driven star. On multi-speed bicycles with external derailleurs from 1 to 3 and 4 to 10 driven stars (I once saw a bike with no roots in production with four drive stars!). How does this affect the circuit? The use of a large number of stars leads to the fact that in many gears the chain does not run smoothly, but with a skew, that is, the leading and trailing stars are not located in the same plane, but in parallel, but with some shift. And the larger this shift, the more the chain and sprockets wear out, so most manufacturers recommend not using gears with a large chain skew, if possible. How was the problem of minimizing the influence of skewing during chain operation solved? In older bicycle chains, the connection between adjacent links consisted of a pin connecting the chain links, a cylindrical cup holding the plates of the inner link through which the pin passed, and a roller on top of the cup. The new chains are distinguished by the absence of a glass, the role of which is played by the edges of the inner cheeks bent inward around the holes. They have a slightly rounded surface, which allows the chain to bend better in the lateral direction. This contributes to better gear shifting and a skewed chain. In addition, oil can more easily penetrate inside to lubricate the pin.

One of the most important differences between chains, not always visible at first glance, but very significant, is the width of the chain. It is intuitively clear that the more stars we want to put on the rear hub of the bicycle, the wider the hub will have to be, because you cannot narrow the “umbrella” of the spokes, otherwise the wheel will lose its lateral rigidity, and hence its strength. But a very wide sleeve should also not be made for reasons of strength of the sleeve itself and its axis. Therefore, with the increase in the number of gears, manufacturers began to reduce the distance between the cassette stars and the thickness of the stars themselves. Accordingly, the more sprockets are placed on the cassette, the narrower the chain used should be. Below is the approximate width of the rivet head chains, depending on the number of stars in the cassette, although it may vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer.

The following can be briefly said about the interchangeability of chains designed for a different number of gears. Chains with 10 gears can only be connected to the corresponding drive. Chains for 9 gears too. 8 gear chains work with 8 and 7 star cassettes and possibly fewer sprocket cassettes other than single speed. Chains for 7 gears. on cassettes of 7 stars and below, except for single-speed ones. Below. everything is the same. But it is impossible to put a chain designed for a smaller number of gears on a cassette with a large number. Another important size. this is the step of the chain. Traditionally, bicycles have used 1-inch and 0.5-inch chains. But chains with inch links had too much irregularity in the course of the chain when running on and off the sprockets due to the long length of the links, so such chains have not been used for a long time and chains with a half-inch pitch (12.7 mm) have become the standard. Multi-speed bike chains do not differ in type: Mountain bikes, hybrids, multi-speed city bikes, touring and road bikes use exactly the same chain. But the resource (mileage) of the same chains on mountain and road bikes usually differs significantly. A noticeable decrease in the life of the chain on a mountain bike is facilitated by a clearly large amount of dirt, as well as work under high loads (on smaller sprockets, the chain tension is higher, all other things being equal).

The chains of these manufacturers differ in the type of connection. Shimano chains have no link at all. When installing such a chain on a bicycle, a special tool is required. squeeze, with the help of which one of the connecting pins (rivets, pins, as they are also called) is pressed into place or pressed out when removed. All new Shimano chains come with a pair of special connecting pins, which have a guide nose to make it easier to push the pin into place. After installation, this spout breaks off. For 8- and 9-star chains, the connecting pins are different: the black-headed pins are for 8-star (IG) chains with silver heads. by 9 (Super narrow HG). Many cyclists find it best to use standard pins, which are squeezed out of the chain while shortening it to the correct length to ensure there are no pin selection problems. At least, this is how any chain is repaired in the event of a break during operation. Shimano currently produces the following types of chains: Super narrow HG (designed to fit bikes with 9-sprocket cassettes) and IG (8 and 7-sprockets), plus chains for single-speed bikes. Also, in the catalogs of spare parts there are still HG (Narrow HG) chains for old cassettes / systems for 6-8 gears. The digital index in the marking, for example IG-70, indicates the class of the chain: the higher the number, the better and more expensive the chain. SRAM chains include information about the number of gears and the class of the chain in a digital index, for example, PC-68: the first number indicates the class of the chain, the second indicates the number of gears, in this case 8. Now SRAM produces chains for 9, 8, 5- 7 and 1 driven sprocket. KMC divides its products into chains for 9, 8, 7, 6 and 1 driven sprocket. Their labeling is quite diverse (see table). In addition, KMC is now licensed to manufacture IG-31 and IG-51 chains for Shimano. Chains for 10 stars, as well as equipment in general, are now produced only by Campagnolo. Attention: When disassembling the chain, do not squeeze the pins with breakable noses, since when they are installed, the holes in the cheeks increase slightly, and these pins wear out more than usual, so their reuse or the use of a standard pin in this place will most likely lead to that you will break the chain easily enough. Unlike Shimano, SRAM and KMC now sell chains with special locking links (SRAM PowerLink, for example) for easy attachment and removal to the bike. These locks differ from ordinary locks of single-speed chains in the type of locking: after all, in a multi-speed chain, rivets practically should not protrude above the side plates. The castle link consists of two halves, each of which. this is a cheek with a pin pressed on one side. Such locks allow you to put and remove the chain without squeezing the chain.

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How can you externally determine for how many gears a particular chain is designed for? In general, the following recommendation can be made: if there is an inscription Super narrow on the chain, then this chain is designed for 9 driven stars, if just Narrow. 7-8 (6) if nothing. for a smaller amount. Shimano currently produces the following types of chains: Super narrow HG (designed to fit bikes with 9-sprocket cassettes) and IG (8 and 7-sprockets), plus chains for single-speed bikes. Also, in the catalogs of spare parts there are still HG (Narrow HG) chains for old cassettes / systems for 6-8 gears. The digital index in the marking, for example IG-70, indicates the class of the chain: the higher the number, the better and more expensive the chain. SRAM chains include information about the number of gears and the class of the chain in a digital index, for example, PC-68: the first number indicates the class of the chain, the second indicates the number of gears, in this case 8. Now SRAM produces chains for 9, 8, 5- 7 and 1 driven sprocket. KMC divides its products into chains for 9, 8, 7, 6 and 1 driven sprocket. Their markings are quite varied (see table) In addition, KMC now licensed IG-31 and IG-51 chains for Shimano. Chains for 10 stars, as well as equipment in general, is now produced only by Campagnolo.

How to fit 7/8 speed chain links to your bike chain

Chain markings in 2002 are collected in the following table:

A lot has been written about how to correctly determine the moment required to replace the chain with a new one, so I will only briefly repeat it. The main idea is that the chain wears out 2-3 times faster than the cassette stars, and 4-6 times faster than the system stars. It. in case of timely replacement of the chain. If the chain is not changed in time, then the heavily worn chain will quickly “eat up” the cassette, especially the “favorite” gears, and then together with the chain it will be necessary to change it, and in the worst case, the system. Therefore, in order to save money, the chain must be changed a little earlier than it is completely worn out, which will make it possible to do only by replacing the chain. How do you know if it’s time to change the chain or is it too early? Measuring the chain life in kilometers is not correct from the point of view of determining its wear. To do this, they usually measure how much the chain has elongated as a result of wear in moving joints, for which a good rigid ruler, vernier caliper or a special device is used. Typically the measurement is taken on a 24-link (half-link) tensioned chain that is exactly 12 inches (half-inch chain) or 304.8 mm for a new chain. In theory, measurements are carried out with a chain tension of 1% of the chain breaking force, which ranges from 1000 kgf for the Start-Highway chains to 2100 kgf for KMC chains, i.e. 10-20 kg. The data given in other sources, in my opinion, is somewhat overestimated, so I give the specified data:

This data refers to the replacement of an old chain with a new one. However, to increase the life of the chain and cassette, the circular chain replacement method can be used when 2-4 chains are used with a new cassette, in the case of using the cassette and chain of the same level. The chains are replaced every 500-1000 km, and after installing all the chains for the first time, they are installed at the 2nd, 3rd time, etc. In this case, the cassette stars and all the chains wear out more or less evenly (the difference is not should exceed 1.0mm over 24 links for all chains) and perform reasonably well at substantial elongations (up to 3.0-4.0mm over 24 links). Of course, it is worth mentioning that the chains last much longer with timely cleaning and lubrication. If we try to briefly answer the question of which manufacturer’s chains are better and which ones are worse, then we can only recall the following. Firstly, the quality of chains changes from year to year, and often not for the better. Second, one type of chain may be better from one manufacturer and another from a different manufacturer. Thirdly, it makes sense to compare not the names of the chains, but the in your region for specific models of the chains. As for my subjective opinion, then, perhaps, manufacturers could be distributed according to the reduction of the parameters of the chains as follows: SRAM, Shimano, KMC. But that’s just IMHO.

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How to install a chain lock with 2 symmetrical pieces

Putting the lock is very simple. It does not need to be snapped into place, since we will do this as soon as we press the pedal for the first time. But you can try to pull the chain in different directions to hear the click of the lock. The main thing is to make sure that all parts of the castle fit into each other.

Types of bicycle chain locks, how to remove and install locks

snap, lock, bicycle, chain

Before installing a new lock, you need to make sure that there is no one on the bike that came with the purchase.

It is not difficult to locate the locking element, it usually has the manufacturer’s marking. Each driver decides for himself whether it is necessary to install this structure. Experts recommend hanging a lock if the bike owner plans to frequently work with the links, remove them, connect and disconnect.

Installation involves a process in which you must first remove some of the links so that there is room for the lock:

  • Removing links is best done with a squeeze tool, this tool allows you to carry out the process neatly without damaging the chain.
  • The removed links can be thrown away, as the locking element will go in their place.
  • After completing all the points, the structure should be fixed. To do this, stretch the chain until a click is heard.
  • If it is necessary to remove the installed structure, bend the chain and slide the hole until it opens.

It should be remembered that often working with bicycle parts requires additional strength and tools, so you should not rely on your hands. For long-term operation and safe use, no need to put the lock from the old chain.

How to install a spring loaded chain lock

After we connect the chain with the first part of the lock with two pins, we need to secure the bar. The bar has a hole where you can push one of the pins. Push in the 1st pin and shift the bar with a hole to the 2nd pin. Next, we need to bend the chain with both hands so that the pin goes into the pin hole in the bar. As soon as the pin enters the hole, you will need to bend the chain a little in the opposite direction so that the pin is in the working position. At the beginning I was afraid to bend, I thought I would break, but everything worked out!

How to remove a spring-loaded cheek lock

This is the most difficult stage, it is not always possible to do it with bare hands. We need a screwdriver to remove the lock. As in the case of installation, you need to bend the chain so that the pin goes to the place on the bar where it can come out, but this does not happen without a screwdriver. You need to help the pin to free itself from the bar, so you need to hold a screwdriver in one of the hands and bend the chain, pressing on the pin with a screwdriver at the moment it approaches the expansion in the bar. As soon as the pin is released, you will hear a click. this means that everything worked out for you correctly.

These locks are not intended to be reused, they usually bend after being removed. But you can always try to bend it back and put the lock again if there is no other lock at hand.

Disadvantages of using

Like any other bike part, the lock has its drawbacks. And the most important, perhaps, is strength. Since it can be disassembled in two, it automatically becomes less reliable than conventional chain links. This raises the risk that the chain is likely to break exactly where it is installed. But do not worry about this, because this happens extremely rarely and after long-term use.

Of course, a chain lock is a very handy thing. With it, you can easily disassemble and assemble the chain so that you can easily remove it from the bike and then install it. If you install a new copy, then it will last much longer and will not be life-threatening. That is, having installed a new one, you can not be afraid that it will burst at the most inopportune moment. Also, do not forget about the sizes that are suitable for this or that option. In some cases, the same spare part may be suitable for different sizes.

How to use?

Before proceeding with the installation of the lock, you need to check if there is already another lock on it, which came directly with the kit when buying a bicycle. Finding a lock is usually easy, since the name of the manufacturer will be stamped on it. Whether to install it or not is everyone’s choice. But if there is a need to often remove the links, then the lock in this case will be useful. To install the lock, half of the link must be removed to make room for it. In order to carefully do this and not damage the links, you must use a tool called a squeeze. The removed pair of outer links can be thrown away and replaced with lock plates. After the performed operation, it is necessary to fasten the lock. To do this, you need to stretch the chain until a click appears. If you suddenly need to remove this spare part, then it will be enough to bend the chain and slide the hole until it opens.

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It should also be noted that not every lock will be easy to push apart by hand, so additional force and the appropriate tool may be required to remove it. For safety reasons, do not install the lock from an old chain. It will be better if this detail is individual for each vehicle, because at the most inopportune moment it can fail, because was sharpened to fit the previous chain.

How to remove a chain lock with 2 symmetrical pieces

To remove the symmetrical lock, you need regular pliers. We bend the chain so that it resembles the letter “P”, where the top of the letter is our lock. In this position, we need to press on the lock with pliers obliquely (diagonally) in order to move the two parts of the lock (press with pliers from the sides where the pin comes out of the cheek). The method works perfect! And the hands are safe, and it takes 15 seconds.

There is also a way to remove it with your hands. ropes or cables. this is when the pins are wrapped with a rope and then pulled together, but usually “tight” locks do not open in this way.

Types of bicycle chain locks, their design and installation

During the operation of the bicycle, various situations can happen to it that require human intervention. One of the necessities is to disconnect the chains to correct the bike’s performance.

HOW TO UNLOCK A BIKE CHAIN!

There are a number of possibilities that help to accomplish this task, among which the most popular solution is the installation of locks on a bicycle chain. That is why it is necessary to understand and understand the design of the chain and lock in order to easily separate the parts.

How To Remove a Bicycle Chain

How to remove a chain lock with 2 symmetrical pieces

To remove the symmetrical lock, you need regular pliers. We bend the chain so that it resembles the letter “P”, where the top of the letter is our lock. In this position, we need to press on the lock with pliers obliquely (diagonally) in order to move the two parts of the lock (press with pliers from the sides where the pin comes out of the cheek). The method works perfect! And the hands are safe, and it takes 15 seconds.

There is also a way to remove it with your hands. ropes or cables. this is when the pins are wrapped with a rope and then pulled together, but usually “tight” locks do not open in this way.

Design

The castle consists of two parts. The first part is two pins located on one cheek, and another cheek (bar) with a hole in the middle, which keeps the chain links from opening.

Pros and cons

  • The design is easy to use.
  • The lock allows you to quickly assemble and disassemble the element.
  • The chain can be easily removed and reinstalled.
  • Some locks can fit different bike models, thereby saving human costs.
  • Low strength. This is due to the ability to disassemble, which makes the mount unreliable.
  • Risk of breaking the chain where the lock is installed.

Types of bicycle chain locks, how to remove and install locks

Before installing a new lock, you need to make sure that there is no one on the bike that came with the purchase.

It is not difficult to locate the locking element, it usually has the manufacturer’s marking. Each driver decides for himself whether it is necessary to install this structure. Experts recommend hanging a lock if the bike owner plans to frequently work with the links, remove them, connect and disconnect.

Installation involves a process in which you must first remove some of the links so that there is room for the lock:

  • Removing links is best done with a squeeze tool, this tool allows you to carry out the process neatly without damaging the chain.
  • The removed links can be thrown away, as the locking element will go in their place.
  • After completing all the points, the structure should be fixed. To do this, stretch the chain until a click is heard.
  • If it is necessary to remove the installed structure, bend the chain and slide the hole until it opens.

It should be remembered that often working with bicycle parts requires additional strength and tools, so you should not rely on your hands. For long-term operation and safe use, no need to put the lock from the old chain.

View 3.1: Spring loaded cheek piece with two holes

There is another type of spring-loaded cheek lock. This is when the cheek itself has not one hole, but two, but the principle of installation and removal does not differ from type 3.

How a lock of this type opens and closes can be seen below:

It is important to note that depending on the number of stars on your cassette or ratchet, the chain width changes, and, accordingly, the lock itself. Therefore, you need to pay attention when buying a lock so that it is the same width as the chain.

What types of castles have you met? Share in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, I will definitely add the material.