How to set up pedals on a bike

Road and Road Bike Settings

A common method for determining the optimal saddle height is the standing leg position. We determine by the algorithm:

  • One pedal is moved to the upper position, the other. to the extreme lower.
  • Get on the ground, frame between your legs.
  • The leg that touches the lower pedal should be almost straight.

If it is too bent or barely touches the pedal, then the saddle height increases or decreases, respectively. Why is it necessary to ensure the correct position of the feet when pedaling? First of all, muscle and knee fatigue will decrease, which will allow you to cover distances without interruption. The torque efficiency will also be higher due to the larger force leverage. True, you should not bring your leg to perfectly straightened, otherwise it will be difficult to pedal.

In the case of road bikes, rear pedal braking performance will also decrease. The range of heights should vary between the min and max marks. A seatpost that is pulled past the safety mark can be tricky when traveling!

The optimum saddle position is parallel to the ground. If desired, the cyclist can tilt it forward to the frame or backward, if the bike model allows it. It is worth noting that for road and road bikes it is better to keep a straight position.

The handlebar height adjustment is calculated relative to the installed saddle. For a city bike, it should be at the level of the saddle. This does not mean that it cannot be installed higher or lower, but first you should ride with such a height, and only then, if necessary, adjust it for yourself. The arms must be bent, but not too much, otherwise it will be inconvenient to control the bike.

A different setting is required by a high-speed road bike, where a strictly specified fit is needed. The body of the cyclist on the road bike deflects approximately 90 degrees relative to the legs. This means that the handlebars should be below the saddle, averaging a few inches.

The amount of removal is of great importance. Too much removal of the steering wheel from the front tube of the frame will make you literally cling to the handles, which will cause the whole body to involuntarily strain. In addition, visibility will deteriorate, since the head will be directed more towards the floor than forward.

A short stem is also bad: straightening the body or bending the spine. As a result, unreasonably high loads, fatigue, low riding efficiency. The size of the steering stem on adjustable structures is selected exclusively on an individual basis, especially on sports bicycles for competitions! If the stem is stationary and not suitable for optimal fit, it should be replaced.

How to customize MTB for yourself

Adjusting a mountain bike differs from adjusting a road bike or city bike due to its specific fit. On the slope of the body, it occupies something in between. within 45 degrees relative to the frame and legs. A properly tuned saddle and handlebar will allow not only not to get tired when pedaling, but also to withstand prolonged vibrations from off-road driving.

Adjustable saddle height and angle. The height is adjusted according to the same principle as on asphalt bikes. The slight difference is that, in addition to the straightened leg, the forefoot should reach the ground well without tilting the frame further. If the leg in the lower position is almost straight, and the feet fully reach the floor, then it is necessary to increase the height by 1. 1.5 cm.

Since the body of a cyclist on MTB has a medium slope, the stem should be adjusted accordingly. On adjustable models, the length is chosen so that when you move your hands do not take on all the vibration. Otherwise, rapid fatigue will ensue, impairing ride quality and handling. How do you achieve the optimal rudder position: height and distance from the frame? Yes, each cyclist will need an individual fit, but there are universal recommendations:

  • arms half bent at the elbows;
  • the entire length of the handles is accessible to the palms;
  • the body is relaxed, the shoulders are not tucked up.

How To Change Pedals- Remove and Replace Your Pedals

When riding mountain bikes, the angle of the saddle is important, as well as the horizontal position. We approach this aspect more carefully: no more than 3. 5 degrees in one direction or another. Excessive leaning back will cause fatigue of the abdominal muscles and hips, and forward. an unstable position of the pelvis and, as a result, additional fatigue. Visually, the angle should be barely noticeable. Why tilt the saddle from a parallel position at all?

Due to small changes in angle, a more accurate fit is achieved, especially if the stem cannot change in length. Also, the tilt of the saddle provides for the anatomical features of a particular person. The seat slides with a special bolt located underneath. It is not worth spinning too much, but after setting the desired position, you need to tighten it tightly. Additional saddle adjustment. horizontal movement. The most comfortable position will be when the center of the knees of the seated cyclist is on a vertical line with the pedal axes.

Setting up an MTB bike includes adjusting the stiffness and stroke length of the suspension fork. The stiffer the structure, the fewer shocks it will soften when driving. There are several ways to adjust the plug:

  • Preload: tension or release of the spring, one-time change in stiffness;
  • Rebound: setting the degree of vibration damping when changing the type of road surface;
  • Extension control: allows you to change the stroke of the shock absorber, thereby selecting the optimal conditions for the road. The function also allows you to block the fork if the bike passes from mountain trails to flat asphalt. This includes an additional function. blocking in a clearly defined position.

A properly honed shock absorber means not only the absence of discomfort from potholes and stones, but also the preservation of the geometry of the bike and extends its service life.

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Important points for setting up your bike

Daily cycling trips give a lot of positive emotions, allow you to keep all muscles in good shape, and have a beneficial effect on the work of all body systems. Traveling on a bike means speed and convenience, because you don’t need to get stuck in a traffic jam, and the route will be much straighter than for a car. over, cycling trips will be much cheaper than public transport and, moreover, a personal car.

All of the above advantages are manifested in all their glory if the two-wheeled servant provides 100% comfort and safety to its owner, that is, it is well regulated in all respects. You can ask a specialist for help in setting up, but it is not free, and the master himself may be busy or absent. A simpler and more efficient option is to set up your bike yourself. It will not take much time, no difficulties will arise, and invaluable experience will be gained.

Adjustments include adjustments to the positions of the saddle, handlebar, suspension fork and handbrake. We will learn more about how to consistently bring your two-wheeled transport to the desired form.

V-brake and disc brake adjustment

Setting up the brakes with your own hands takes a couple of minutes, but it will allow you to avoid troubles in the future. Precisely adjusted braking system will give the shortest possible stopping distance and will not allow the pads to wear out prematurely.

  • firmly fixed body on the fork (or bolt for the pliers);
  • cable tension;
  • the distance of the pads from the rim is 2.5. 3 mm;
  • instant actuation and rebound of the pads from the rim when the handle is released;
  • the surface of the cartridge pads must fully adhere to the rim.

A common problem with poor V-brake performance is under-tensioned cable and improperly positioned pads. On a caliper brake, they may be unevenly pressed against the wheel rim. Solution of problems:

  • We release the cable, then with force we stretch it a little further. A few treatments will be enough to restore normal tension. You do not need to overdo it: either the mechanism will be damaged, or the cable will be pulled over, and the brakes will not work at all.
  • Align the brake pads parallel to the wheel rim. Sometimes the problem lies not in the brake at all, but in the eight. The defect is not pleasant, but you can quickly fix it yourself.
  • The centering of the caliper brake is achieved by maximum fastening to the bolt and a uniform release position. Place it strictly in the center so that the force of the handle and cable is equally distributed between the pads.

Disc brake adjustment consists in pulling the cable and setting the distance between the shoe and the disc surface. The free clearances here are up to 0.4 mm, much less than on the V-brake. Because of this, braking and increased wear often occur.

The position of the shoe is adjusted using the adjusting screw on the body. It is almost impossible to determine the optimal distance by eye, so we run the bike and check the brakes in different positions of the handle after each adjustment.

The settings of all the described parameters are simply necessary so that trips bring only joy and do not cause inconvenience, and the bike itself requires maintenance as little as possible.

Removing bicycle pedals

When starting to dismantle the pedal, it is important to remember that the thread on bicycle pedals is different, namely: the axis of the left pedal has a left thread, therefore it is unscrewed clockwise, and right. right and unscrewed counterclockwise.

Removal process for conventional pedals:

  • First, the system is slid in the direction of the steering wheel, and then the pedals are gently unscrewed from the crank.
  • Remove the plug located at the end of the platform, thereby opening the lock nut.
  • We unscrew the lock nut, while holding the axle at the connecting rod with the second key.
  • Remove the lock washer located at the end.
  • Unscrew the cone.
  • Removing the platform from the axle, do not forget about the bearings. Better to shoot them separately. If they are bulk, then you should put a rag or sheet so that the balls do not roll in different directions.

The process of removing the clipless pedals:

  • On the pedal in the place indicated by the arrow (see figure), fix the puller and unscrew.
  • Removing the axle from the pedal body without much effort.
  • Unscrew the lock nut securing the entire axial structure. To do this, you need to hold the axis itself with a key, or clamp it in a vice.
  • We take out all the nodes in order. At the same time, do not forget about the bearings and make sure that they do not scatter.

For your reference: on each side, their quantity is 12 pieces.

Important! Due to the constant influence of the environment and the serious mechanical stress to which the pedal is subjected, some difficulties may arise when twisting this unit. Experienced cyclists use two techniques to make it easier to remove the pedals:

  • The bicycle pedal can be soaked in solvent or kerosene to get rid of any clogged dirt blocking rotation as much as possible.
  • The connecting rod and axle can be heated: slight deformation will loosen the threads and help remove the axle.

It is also important in the process of installing the pedal, while twisting the axle, not to damage the thread, because this will significantly complicate the subsequent removal process. Everything needs to be done as carefully as possible.!

How to put a pedal on a bike.

By the way, before starting the installation process, it would be very good to clean from old grease and dirt with a degreaser not only the thread on the pedal axis, but also the thread in the connecting rods.

Degreaser (degreaser) is a special degreasing compound designed to remove dirt, grease, oil.

  • It is best to begin to twist the pedal with your hands, strictly perpendicular to the connecting rod axis. This is the least likely to damage the thread when the axis is misaligned.
  • All actions during setting are similar to removal, only they need to be twisted in the other direction, compared to unscrewing.
  • If there is a slot for a hexagon wrench at the end of the pedal axis, then it can be screwed in with a hexagon. The minus of the hexagon is that it will not be possible to give a strong load on it and screw the pedal well. Therefore, it is best to tighten it first with a hexagon, and then finally tighten it well with an open-end wrench.
  • It is necessary to twist the axle into the connecting rod strongly, but without fanaticism. It is very difficult to break the thread there, but it will be difficult to untwist the fanatically tightened thread.
  • After installation, remove any excess grease that has formed around the connecting rod connection. So dirt and dust will not accumulate in this place.
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    Required tools and supplies

    When replacing, as in repairing (servicing) the pedal, you will most likely need the following materials: cleaning rags, thinner or kerosene and heavy grease.

    Removing and disassembling bicycle pedals may require tools such as:

    Each of them must have a label: which is left and which is right. Usually these are the English letters L. Left (left) and R –Right (right), respectively, for the left and right pedals.

    The left pedal is always made with a left hand thread. This means that it twists counterclockwise and unscrews clockwise.

    On the right, there is a regular right-hand thread. Twists clockwise and unscrews counterclockwise.

    This is done so that when the pedals are spinning while the bike is moving, they do not unscrew.

    It is easier to remember the rule: the pedals are unscrewed against the direction of the bicycle‘s movement. twist to the rear wheel, and twist in the direction of travel. twist to the front wheel.

    How to check the pedal

    It is advisable to check the condition of the pedals, their tightness, the absence of backlash and the condition of the case before each trip. You can just stand with your foot on it, and then, twisting, watch and listen to how it rotates on the axis. If there is no visual beating and unnecessary sounds. everything is fine, you can go.

    Remember, if the pedal twists out, breaks or is lost while driving, you are unlikely to be able to go somewhere, and the risk of injury is quite high.

    Removing the pedals

    After preparation, you can proceed to the removal process. For conventional mechanisms, it looks like this:

    • We move the system to the working side. in the direction of the steering wheel.
    • We try to carefully unscrew the pedals from the connecting rod.
    • Remove the plug at the end of the platform, open the lock nut.
    • Unscrew the lock nut, holding the axle at the connecting rod with the second key.
    • Remove the washer (also at the end).
    • Unscrew the cone.
    • We remove the platform from the axle, holding the bearings (it is better to remove them separately, if they are bulk, then put a rag or sheet so that they do not roll far).
    • Pedal removed and disassembled!

    It is important not to forget that the left and right pedals are unscrewed from the connecting rod in their direction: on the right axis. the right thread, on the left. the left.

    The contact devices are a little more difficult to disassemble, but they will not cause any problems. when twisting and disassembling, a puller is used, which should hold the axis with a small contact pad.

    When you may need to remove bike pedals

    The peculiarity of the pedals is that they have symmetrical threads.

    Each of them must have a label: which is left and which is right. Usually these are the English letters L. Left (left) and R –Right (right), respectively, for the left and right pedals.

    pedals, bike

    The left pedal is always made with a left hand thread. This means that it twists counterclockwise and unscrews clockwise.

    On the right, there is a regular right-hand thread. Twists clockwise and unscrews counterclockwise.

    This is done so that when the pedals are spinning while the bike is moving, they do not unscrew.

    It is easier to remember the rule: the pedals are unscrewed against the direction of the bicycle’s movement. twist to the rear wheel, and twist in the direction of travel. twist to the front wheel.

    Removing the pedals from the bike is easy enough, but don’t forget about preparing tools and materials, as well as possible problems. The main thing is to keep the entire system in order, since in case of damage or other problems, the inconvenience of using the bike will be very great.

    pedals, bike

    Required tools and materials

    Before removing the pedals, it is necessary to prepare the tool and auxiliary materials that are most likely to be needed.

    How to install pedals on your MTB

    • lubrication. the removed parts are recommended to be cleaned and lubricated;
    • cleaning rags;
    • kerosene or solvent. in case the axles do not unscrew or there are large contaminated areas.
    • an adjustable wrench is a universal solution, a small one is desirable, otherwise it will be difficult to get to the nut;
    • open-end wrench for 15. fits almost all models;
    • bicycle kit. in case of emergency;
    • pedal wrench. supplied by manufacturers for non-standard nuts and just in sets;
    • puller. addition to the foot pedals. a standard tool, often supplied by the manufacturer, serves to hold the axle when turning to the side with a wrench.

    What tool are pedals removed

    When using an adjustable wrench, be sure to pay attention to its thickness. The fact is that the distance between the pedal mount and the connecting rod is not large, and not every adjustable wrench will fit there. Some types of wrenches come with thin jaws that can be used. Open-end wrenches or special pedal keys are great for this operation.

    Pedal design

    All pedals, despite their different features, have a common design:

    • Platform. the surface on which the foot rests, which is fixed on the axis.
    • Metal axis. a pin made of metal. Has a thread and is screwed into the connecting rod.
    • Bearings. provide torque. Serves as a connecting element between the axle and the platform. There are simple bulk and cartridge bearings that differ in weight and quality.
    • Bolts, nuts.

    It should be noted that the design of the pedals is not as simple as it seems at first glance. Therefore, before tackling such problems, for example, how to remove the axle of a bicycle pedal, you should carefully study the overall design.

    Low cadence in high gear

    It is this kind of pedaling that causes the most fatigue. And the experience of world competitions shows: for a long work of the knees without injuries, it is better to pedal at a frequency of 60-90 rpm. Special bike computers help to calculate it. Or you can count it yourself in your head: /. 1 crank in 1 second.

    How to pedal a bike: the basics and basic rules

    The principle slowly but surely injures the knees. To pedal correctly, not to press. The best option is to choose a gear that you will have a high cadence (cadence).

    When pedaling, try not to get out of the saddle: this will save you energy. Do not strain your entire body, concentrate on the road, breathing and pedaling. details about the latter. further in our article.

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    Correct pedaling technique

    This is called spinning and it involves pedaling with a high cadence. The best way to pedal a bike is done by happy owners of toe clips or bike contacts.

    This pedaling technique evenly distributes the load on the knees and leg muscles, saves energy, does not get tired so quickly and, accordingly, travel long distances and / or at a higher speed.

    The rate of cranking of the pedals is 60-90 rpm (times) per minute. The pedals should circle around the carriage. With this rotation, the force is evenly distributed throughout the rotation cycle, and not just during the downward pedal movement.

    • Tip: Try practicing with only one foot. Feel that force is distributed evenly over the entire length of the circular motion with each pedal revolution. Exercise until pedaling with one foot is even and smooth. Exercise until you get rid of jerky-gusty movements and so-called blind spots.

    What are contact pedals and more details about what they are for. find out in the following

    Dancer technique

    This is the name of riding when the cyclist gets out of the saddle and when pedaling his body waddles from side to side. Usually this is used when riding uphill, when it is not possible to do this while sitting in the saddle. Other use cases:

    How To Install/Remove MTB Pedals EASILY!

    • you need to catch up with your opponent;
    • need to change position.
    • stand on the pedals as low as possible;
    • place weight primarily on the rear wheel;
    • do not use an excessively low gear, otherwise you will waste energy empty / skidding on the first obstacle.

    The pulling technique will help make the dancer’s technique even more powerful: use your hands to bring your body as close as possible to the steering wheel. This helps the foot to apply more pressure when you press the pedal.

    • Editorial advice: try to get out of the saddle in extreme cases and only on the ups. this will save your strength and energy supply.

    Get out of the saddle only in extreme cases and on climbs.

    Do not strain

    Often, cyclists make their face tense (especially on climbs), forget about breathing, tense their whole body, hold the handlebars with a dead grip. It is necessary the other way around:

    • monitor breathing (should be deep and stable. this will not cause shortness of breath);
    • slightly bend your elbows;
    • relax the torso and limbs.

    Keep every cell of your body relaxed. This is the only way to save more energy. This is the only way cycling will bring you real pleasure.

    Relax. this is the only way to enjoy cycling

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    Cycling pedal classification

    Today, fans of two-wheeled vehicles are pleased with the abundance and variety of models of self-propelled bikes. Not only frames, wheels, brakes and transmissions look original, but also ordinary pedals. It is they who, at the first opportunity, become the object of tuning. Well, given the fact that they also bear a considerable share of the load, the need to master the process of self-removal and installation of these parts is growing. over, if you need to service the carriage assembly, you will not be able to reach it in any other way than by removing the sprocket with pedals from the bike.

    Let’s start with the classification of the parts, thanks to which we actually set the bike in motion. Structurally, it can be divided into three types:

    • doptalki. the most common, installed on adults, children, city stunt and mountain bikes;
    • toe-clips have additional foot locks in the form of metal braces and straps;
    • contacts or automata rigidly fix the shoes on the pedals, engaging with it with the help of a spike installed on the sole of special shoes.

    Each cyclist chooses a support based on his riding style and his own subjective assessments.

    What tool will you need to work

    Before unscrewing the pedal on a bicycle, pay attention to the method of its attachment and select the necessary tool. As a rule, these are:

    • open-end wrench 15;
    • 6 mm hex key;
    • grease (lithol, grease);
    • napkin or rags.

    To unscrew the stuck part from the connecting rod, and, if necessary, remove the connecting rod itself, a special device will help. a squeeze or a puller.

    Another question that should be paid attention to: which way to unscrew the pedals on the bike. The fact is that on the body of parts or on the end part of a product of any type, the mark L or R is applied, i.e. left or right. At first glance, absolutely identical parts have multidirectional fastening threads. To unscrew the left bicycle pedal, you need to rotate the tool clockwise. For the right, on the contrary, the effort must be applied counterclockwise.

    The problem often arises of how to remove the pedals from the bike without a puller. If you managed to loosen or completely unscrew the fixing screws, but this did not go further, experienced fans of two-wheeled friends advise you to sit in the saddle and make a few laps without driving far from the service station or the place where you are doing repairs. It is advisable to pre-fill problem areas with WD40 grease. It is not necessary to cheat, as you can damage the threads and seats. It is enough to ride at low speed, simultaneously controlling the position of the connecting rods. The fact that the case has moved off the ground will be evidenced by an increase in backlash.

    If you cannot move the thread off the dead center, then so that a similar problem does not visit you again, when installing the parts in place, apply very little grease to the thread.

    How to properly remove pedals from a bike

    Since the introduction of a bicycle in our life, designers have tirelessly proved that inventing another bicycle is not so difficult. If the first jogging machine, and this is how the now fashionable bike was called more than two centuries ago, did not even have pedals, then the modern two-wheeled friend. it is a celebration of engineering, combined with innovative materials and high technology. We will devote this review to how to remove pedals from a bicycle.

    Removing the pedals

    So, in order to disassemble the unit, we have to do a few simple manipulations: remove the end cap on the pedal axis and, while holding the axle, unscrew the nut from the seat on the connecting rod.