How To Set Speed On A Stealth Bike

How the switches work

Using the handle and shifter, the cyclist activates the required speed. In a certain position of the handle, the cable is pulled. As a result of this tension, the frame is thrown onto larger sprockets; when loosening, the cable is not thrown onto small sprockets. As mentioned above, bike setup can be started from the rear derailleur. Procedure for adjusting the rear derailleur:

  • We select the second star in the front block, and the smallest in the rear one and set the switch chain on them;
  • The bike’s rear derailleur system has two bolts that act as stops. One stands for H and the other stands for L. THESE two bolts control the high and low gears on the sprockets. If any extraneous sounds occur during the adjustment process, you can get rid of them using the latch;
  • Check the tension of the cable and if the tension is NOT required, use the adjuster located on the shifter;
  • Test the switching quality. If the switching occurs smoothly, no extraneous sounds are heard, then you did everything right.

How to set your bike speeds. Required set of tools:

  • Screwdriver;
  • Hex key set;
  • Pliers;
  • Spare cables;

Why bike speeds don’t shift well

Usually, the thought of needing to fix derailleur problems comes when the chain is shifting too hard between the stars, or the gears are NOT shifting at all. The problem comes suddenly, as an option, you can contact the master.

However, this issue can be resolved in the service in a couple of minutes, and the money will have to be paid in time. Maybe you should tinker yourself?

Before proceeding with the instructions for setting up the bike speed system, let’s determine why it does not work correctly:

  • Switches are damaged. A complete replacement is needed to solve the problem.
  • Deformed cock. protection of the rear derailleur. Usually it is advised to change, but once you can straighten.
  • Spring worn or stretched cable. Replacement required, switch setting.

Very often, all components of the transmission are in good condition, and the gears are still poorly shifted. New parts, or small workpieces installed in a transmission unit are a common cause of poor chain sprocket running.

Setting up the rear derailleur

  • Setting the switch to the smallest star.
  • Loosens the rope. To do this, unscrew the clamp screw located on the rear derailleur.
  • Putting the front derailleur chain on the middle sprocket.
  • We check the operation of the chain. To do this, you just need to twist the pedals. If the chain starts to fall, adjust the high speed limiter screw. In total, your rear derailleur and the smallest chainring in the front should be in line.
  • Pull the cable tightly and tighten the bolt, which is responsible for fixing the tightening.
  • We begin to test the switch by clicking each speed from the lowest to the highest. If the system malfunctions in a certain place, then adjust the cable tension until all speeds do NOT easily switch.

When adjusting the speed switch, be sure to remember that all manipulations with the cable must be done smoothly and very carefully. Be patient and avoid sudden movements. When loosening or tightening the bolts, do it gradually, no more than one turn at a time.

Remember that speed tuning is very important and will affect the overall performance of your bike. Therefore, take the drive mechanism very seriously, and once having mastered the technique of setting speeds, carry it out systematically!

The bike chain is one of the most important parts of your bike, so not only the overall riding experience, but also your safety depends on its serviceability.

The transmission plays a very important role in the operation of the entire bike, so you must carefully monitor the wear of its SEPARATE parts.

In order to install disc brakes on a bicycle, you can go to any bike workshop, or carry out this process yourself.

The braking system of any bike is the most important element of mechanics, which is responsible for your safety during the trip.

The need to remove the bike chain occurs when it needs to be replaced, cleaned or a broken link must be removed.

How to properly adjust the rear and front derailleurs on a bicycle photo and description of the process

Despite the fact that the bicycle was invented a long time ago and, it would seem, should have been out of date for a long time, but this two-wheeled vehicle is gaining more and more popularity every year. Cycling enthusiasts prefer this type of transport due to its convenience, ease of operation, environmental safety and practicality. Not only ordinary bicycles are very popular, but also mountain, track VELOBIKE, in which modern innovative technologies are involved. In order for the owners to enjoy cycling, they need to be looked after and the condition of all parts and assemblies should be monitored. If in the process of cycling, you hear extraneous sounds, creaking, knocking and twitching during gear shifting, it’s time to pay attention to such a detail as the gear selector.

Adjusting the front derailleur

  • We put the speed switch in the following ratio: the smallest star in the front and the largest in the back;
  • Unscrew the cable;
  • Using the screw of the limiter for low gears, we adjust the position of the frame, it should be at a distance of no more than 3 millimeters from the chain;
  • Stretch the front derailleur cable slightly;
  • Switch the speed to the middle sprocket and check if the chain is touching the outer frame. If it touches, it is necessary to tighten the cable more;
  • We put the derailleur on the smallest sprocket and check how easy it is to change gears. If the switch does NOT work, adjust the high speed limiter screw.

Setting switches at home

Now let’s figure out how to set up a high-speed system. Derailleurs on bicycles with multi-gear transmission are divided into front and rear. The latter are most vulnerable when riding in a variety of road conditions, the risk of damage is higher compared to the front ones, but the settings must be made at the very beginning. Obviously, the rear derailleur serves more stars, so it takes longer to set up.

Attention! If there is damage, and the tensioner is NOT parallel to the frame and the cassette, then it will NOT be possible to correctly adjust the system!

Rear derailleur setting:

First you need screws L and H. they are clearly visible, no need to look. Also includes a cable adjuster, tension and fixing screws.

  • H is used to align the roller with the small rear sprocket. By tightening the screw L, we set the roller on one straight line with the large rear sprocket.
  • Set the highest speed on the shifter.
  • Tension and fix the cable with the locking bolt.
  • Large gears Must be engaged without interference, otherwise, using the adjuster, the cable is slightly weakened. Additional tension will be needed if gears are poorly reset.

Actually, the adjustment itself is made, it remains to adjust the switching accuracy. This is especially true for systems with a large number of stars. For this, the chain is mounted on a large chainring at the back and a small chainring at the front. By tightening the tension screw, we achieve the optimal position of the roller. as close as possible to the cassette. The same must be done and vice versa: set the chain to the maximum chainring in front and minimum. at the back. The roller should not rub against the cassette, just be located next to it.

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How to properly set up the switch in front:

  • Check device attachment.
  • Release cable tension at minimum speed.
  • Use screw L to create a gap between the derailleur body and the chain (1 mm).
  • Secure the cable with the adjusting bolt.

The same should be done with the H-screw. The maximum speed must be set, and the gap with the chain must not exceed one millimeter.

The speed setting on both bicycle derailleurs is carried out until the chain is freely thrown from one sprocket to another. If it is difficult to go, it is necessary to adjust the correct position of the cable using the adjusting bolt.

After all the manipulations, the entire system is checked. To do this, you need to ride a big one and try all the recommended gear ratios. Note that on mountain bikes, the transmission adjustment is a common periodic procedure, and if suddenly the transmission goes tight, do not rush to draw conclusions about breakdowns, but do what is described above.

Do not think that a high-quality transmission does NOT need to adjust the shifting system. Yes, it may be necessary to do this less often for shimano components, but sooner or later you will still have to face.

We just saw an easy way to adjust the front and rear derailleurs. Is it really necessary? Adjustment of the shift mechanism is necessary for the transmission, like tires for a wheel. Timely assistance “traffic node “will allow not only to solve current problems, but also to prevent them in the future. Eliminating all inconveniences in time and ride with pleasure!

Adjusting the front derailleur of the bike. How to setup?

Adjustment, setting the front derailleur, it is NOT difficult if you do everything carefully and consistently, but first you need to adjust the rear derailleur, and then proceed to the front.

The whole process can be divided into three stages:

To set up we need:

1) Shaped screwdriver;

4) Key for 9 (in some cases, you need a 4-5 hexagon)

5) Cable and cable jacket (if yours are in poor condition);

The first stage is preparation.

First, check the cable and the jacket of the cable (for this, loosen the tension cable and remove it from the jacket), Make sure that the cable is NOT unraveled anywhere, the jacket of the cable is not “Zalomon “. If there are no kinks and unweaving, and the cable still moves tightly in the shirt, clean it from dirt, sand and Lubricate.

Next wash and clean the front derailleur, wipe and dry it well, and then fry all moving parts.

Screw the “lambs”, which is located on the gear shift coins, almost to the very end (leave a couple of turns for adjustment). At this stage of preparation is over.

The second step is setting up the front derailleur.

Position the derailleur so that, if you were looking at it from above, the derailleur frame is parallel to the chainrings. (To adjust the height and angle of the switch, loosen the clamping bolt)

In order to adjust the height, place the chain on a large sprocket, the gap between the frame and the large sprocket should be 2-3 mm. The smaller this gap, the better the switching

Next, you should adjust the “blockage of the chain” (so that the chain does not fall when switching to lower and higher gears)

If you look at the switch from above, you can see two adjusting screws H.High (high) and L.Low (low). these screws are responsible for adjusting the “chain blockage”.

Place the chain on a small sprocket in the front and a large one in the back.

Begin to rotate the L.Low screw (low) until the chain is as close to the inner plate as possible, but make sure that the chain does NOT hit the frame while pedaling. Next, pull the cable with pliers and tighten the cable securing screw.

Now you need to do the same with the H.High screw. We put the chain on the big star in the front and on the small back. Turn the screw H (High) until the chain is as close as possible to the outer plate, but so that when pedaling the chain does NOT touch the frame.

Now you should check how the switch works by rotating the pedals (put the bike on a stand or suspend the rear wheel), step by step change gears in both directions. If it does not switch well from large to small stars, it is necessary to loosen the cable by rotating the “lambs” on the coins, clockwise, and if it does not rise well from small to large, counterclockwise.

Stage three. checking the front derailleur.

After we have checked the operation of the switch on weight, you need to do it under load, sit on the bike and eat, changes gears. The front derailleur should work smoothly and clearly, the chain does not have to rub against the frame .

Technique for correct gear shifting

Switching. There is more to it than just turning the levers. Shifting requires precise coordination between arms and legs the better you coordinate your movements, the smoother your shifts will be.

The basic principle here is that you have to pedal for the bike to move. The chain must move forward for the derailleurs to do their job, so always depress the pedal when shifting.

But there is a little trick. For smooth gear shifting, you need to pedal lightly and gently. This is called “soft pedaling”.

If you pedal too hard, the force of your foot will override the switches, and there will be no shifting, just a grinding sound! (Think about it, your legs are big and muscular, and the derailleurs and chain. Just small pieces of metal.)

So here’s how to change:

When moving the switch by hand at the same time, Loosen the pedal one stroke. You should hear and feel the smooth shifting. Then you can resume pedaling with full force. Don’t worry, you only relax for a second, so you will NOT lose speed just by gently pressing the pedals.

That’s all. Most people who have trouble shifting gears just have to try gently pedaling. It is a common misconception that you need to pedal hard and fast to change gears; proper gear shifting actually requires the opposite approach.!

Just go and practice.

How to shift gears: the basics

So now that you have a basic understanding of what these gears are called, how do you shift? Depending on the type of bike, your shifters may differ slightly; on road bikes (or any bike with a folding handlebar), your derailleurs. These are the same levers that you use to apply the brakes. To operate the switches, push the lever to the side until you hear a click. On most flat handlebar mountain and hybrid bikes, you shift gears with your thumb paddles. Some bicycles operate with “grip switches” or a dial, which is located inside where you place your hands. In THESE systems, you change gears by turning the dial back and forth.

Your shifters are connected to a cable enclosed in a protective cover. When you click on the gears, the cable tightens and looses, applying more or less force to the derailleurs, which moves your chain up and down the cassette or chain ring. Below we explain what each lever does:

Left hand: Controls the gears / front derailleur in front of them. Move the chain up and down the chain ring. These levers cause large jumps, gears when changing terrain.

Right hand: Controls the reverse gear / rear derailleur. Move the chain up and down the cassette. These levers are designed for small adjustments, transmission and use in minor terrain changes.

Large lever: the larger of the two gear levers moves the chain to the larger rings. So big = big. Switching to large rings with the RIGHT hand will make pedaling easier. Shifting into higher gears with your left hand will make it HEAVY.

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Small lever: The smaller of the two gear levers moves the chain into smaller rings. So small = small. Shifting to smaller rings with the RIGHT hand will make the pedal press harder. Shifting down the gear with your left hand will make pedaling easier.

No more / little leverage? You may have a SRAM road drivetrain that uses a “double-push” system. This means that there is a smaller lever hidden behind the larger brake lever and you can only move it in one direction. A long press (with two clicks) will move the chain to a larger and lighter gear at the rear (right hand) and a larger and harder gear. in front (left hand). A short press (with one click) will move the chain to a smaller, stiffer gear at the rear (right) and a smaller and lighter gear at the front (left).

You may also have a handle shift. This means you have a dial where you turn back and forth to change gears. Turning the dial forward will shift the chain to a smaller and harder gear in the back (right hand) and a smaller and lighter gear in the front (left hand). Turning the disc back will move the chain to a larger and lighter gear in the back (right hand) and a larger and lighter gear. harder gear in front (left hand).

Start on a hill

Hills can be difficult to master as you are more likely to roll back and run the risk of colliding with a car behind you. To easily start a manual car on a hill, rely on the parking brake. Set the wheel in the direction you want to go and release the clutch and put on the throttle as usual.Once you feel the car struggling with your parking brake, release the brake and engage the clutch.

Learn How Shifters and Gear Shifters Work

Having gears will not do you any good if you don’t understand how shifting works, so take a look at this.

Gear shifting starts with the gear shift levers. These are usually located on the handlebars next to the grips. When you move one of the shift levers, the cable pulls or releases one of the shifters. Yakiy moves the chain from one gear to another.

In typical settings, the left derailleur is matched to the front derailleur (so it switches between sprockets.) The right derailleur is matched to the rear derailleur (which switches between teeth on the cassette).

Let’s first talk about the shift levers (“shifters”).

Each switch will have numbers indicating which gear you are in (this is a gear indicator). In this example, our left radio button shows numbers 1-3 and our right radio button shows 1-8.

The lower the number, the easier the transmission will be. So, if both gear indicators read “1”, then you are in the lightest gear the bike offers. Assuming the left derailleur is in position 3 and the right. In position 8, you are in the heaviest gear on the bike.

On the left switch, you will see numbers indicating which gear you are in. 1, 2, or 3. Number 1 corresponds to the small ring, 2. to the middle ring, and 3. to the large ring. For chainrings, larger sprockets equals a stiffer gear.

On the right switch, all numbers are 1-8. Number 1 corresponds to the largest screw and number 8. to the smallest prong. When it comes to cassette, larger prongs equal lighter gear.

Let’s not forget about switches.

This is the easy part because as soon as you shift the levers, the shift cable will transmit your instructions to the switches.

When shifting gears, the derailleur cage (through which the chain runs) moves to either side. Let’s say you’ve shifted the front derailleur to a lighter gear. The front derailleur will move to the left, thereby “knocking” the chain off the chain to a smaller sprocket. As long as the derailleurs are set correctly, they will do their job exactly the same, and you can focus on shifting!

Getting Started (Practice Leads to Perfection)

Now that you know what to do, it’s time to do it. But first it does NOT hurt to do a few training runs.!

The first thing I would do is manually iterate over the gears. Simply support the bike so that the rear wheel is not touching the ground (if you have a repair stand, just hang the bike from a tree branch or something like that), and then change gears while pedaling with your other hand.

Once you see it in action, head to the empty parking lot and ride in a circle. You just want to “feel” the switch so it becomes second nature. You want to be able to ride and pay attention to your surroundings without having to look at switches.

Don’t be discouraged if it takes a while, we were all there at one point! It’s not easy to go from one speed to 24 or 27!

(Think of it like driving a car with a manual transmission. Most people don’t know how!)

Lions Bloom. Experienced endurance athlete who has trained and competed for over 17 years Former Category 1 road and mountain bikes (professional grade on regional circuit), now cycling coach (US Cycling Certification, Level 3) and sports nutrition (nutritional accuracy certificate, level 1).

Installation and adjustment

And it puts something more serious on an inexpensive bike, Used only for riding exclusively on asphalt. It’s pointless. But the range switched was important, since the city is replete with hills, mounds and attics.

So, replacing the rear derailleur begins with removing the old noname from the frame. It’s time for Shimano. The chain link is revealed. If there is such a comment, then you must use the squeeze.

The old switch is unscrewed and removed, and a new one is hung in its place and screwed to the “cock”. A protruding triangle with a hole in the frame. It is worth tightening well, but without undue enthusiasm.

We put the bike chain on the smallest star. Visually, the roller and the small star Must be in line. The small star is the highest speed, therefore we adjust the position of the roller with the screw H.

The next step is to insure against the possibility of the chain hitting the spokes, which is likely if the derailleur goes behind the largest sprocket. To do this, you need to move the switch to the largest star, carefully and effortlessly. By no means on a roller, the fastening of which is very easy to bend.

The adjusting screw fixes the position of the switch exactly so that it is opposite the large star. The event for her is fraught with the loss of knitting needles and good mood. If the switch is too tight, there will be no lower gear.

Queue for the cable. He should walk freely in a shirt. We check the progress and the absence of creases. On this switch model, you can see the place for the cable to pass. We put the chain on the smallest sprocket, tighten the cable to remove the slack, Fix it. Thus, installing the rear derailleur and adjusting it are two integral and complementary processes.

Now check the operation of the entire mechanism. When pedaling from the rear derailleur side, there should be no pronounced clicking sounds. Switching up / down should be accurate, without jumping and delays. And even if everything fell into place, it works accurately, quietly and without delay. for the first trip it is worth taking a screwdriver with you. Working with a load may well require minor adjustments.

Note that you will have to face such a concept as “preventive maintenance of the switch”, regardless of its price category. As the rollers, which are consumables, wear out, their timely replacement will be required.

It is believed that installing and adjusting the rear derailleur is much easier than the front derailleur. However, you will have to spend time and effort, but this work will pay off handsomely during the trip.

Effective and efficient gear shifting techniques

Ok, here’s the most important thing to remember when riding any bike there is NO perfect gear! Shift!

Too often we see people putting too much energy into their pedals when they climb a steep incline in a large chain ring, or swing their legs when they are spinning in a gear that is too light for the descent they are riding. ride. Maintain as constant cadence as possible (the rate at which your pedals complete a full revolution)! This requires one of two things: shifting gears or increasing power output. The problem with power output is that if you’re not Wonder Woman, you have a limited supply of power. We recommend changing gears frequently to improve efficiency while riding.

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Lil’s Tip: Start shifting into lighter gears with your right hand early to maintain a steady cadence. Remember, your right hand is for small terrain changes. If you find that your pedaling speed is slowing down dramatically, you may need to use the front derailleur (left hand) to facilitate shifting for the big climb ahead. But if you’re already uphill and putting out a lot of power to the pedals, you might notice that your front derailleur does NOT want to work! You will move, hear the grinding, but nothing will happen and you will most likely stop in the middle of the hill.

Instead of grinding these gears, you will need to apply a little more power to the pedal travel right before shifting, and then ease the pedal travel when shifting. With less pressure on your chain, it will be easier for your derailleur to remove your chain from a larger ring to a smaller one.!

Cross chain

Cross chain. This is the term for being in one of the following gear combinations:

LARGE / LARGE: Largest cassette tooth (lightest gear) and largest star ring (hardest gear))

SMALL / SMALL: Smallest tooth in the cassette (hardest gear) and smallest chain link (lightest gear)

In THESE positions, the chain stretches at an angle, which can damage the transmission over time and may cause the chain to slip or cause the front derailleur to make noise and malfunction.

Put the car in first gear

Then set the gear selector so that the transmission is in first gear, again this should be the leftmost position in the top half of the gearbox.

Installing a mechanical speedometer

How to install a speedometer on a bike? Installation algorithm:

  • Loosen the front wheel nuts and remove it.
  • Unscrew the right mounting nut completely.
  • Strong drive of the speedometer so that its inner metal sleeve rotates with the wheel.
  • We put the wheel in place (the adapter for connecting the cable on the drive must point up).
  • Using the support bracket, mount the switch on the steering wheel.
  • We connect the speedometer drive and the speed indicator using a cable (it is included in the delivery set).
  • We make a few turns of the wheel.
  • Attaching the cable with plastic clips on the front fork and handlebars.

Important! Significant bends in the cable are not allowed.

Installation of an electronic speedometer

How to put a speedometer on a bike? Installing an electronic device is much easier than a mechanical one:

  • On the front fork We fix the reading element.
  • Opposite it on the spokes Install a small magnet so that when the wheel rotates, the gap between it and the sensor is the manufacturer’s recommended distance (usually from 3 to 10 mm).
  • The mounting panel for the digital device is installed on the steering wheel in the most convenient place for viewing.
  • The wire connecting the sensor and the speed indicator, securing with clamps so that it does not interfere with movement, brake pads and steering.
  • We install the digital device on the mounting platform and proceed to setup.

How to install a speedometer on a bike? Instructions

Cycling speed is of interest not only to professional athletes, but also to numerous fans of this means of transportation (by the way, the most environmentally friendly one). Usually the bike is NOT equipped with speed meters at the factory. However, you can install the speedometer on your bike yourself, because it does not require special technical skills. Moreover, the cost of such a device is low and the choice is quite diverse.

Varieties of bicycle speedometers

There are two main types of bicycle speed measuring devices: mechanical and electronic (wired and wireless). The first ones are the least functional, basically show only the speed and mileage. The latter are minicomputers with the ability to display on the liquid crystal display the most various shown (from the current time to the maximum speed during the trip). The choice of this or that device depends on both personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Construction, advantages and disadvantages of a mechanical bicycle speedometer

The mechanical speedometer on an old Soviet-style bicycle was a roller that fits tightly to the tire of the front wheel and was connected with a cable with a speed indicator. A small figure eight or sticky dirt led to the fact that the readings became unreliable or even contributed to the failure of the device.

The design of modern mechanical speedometers is quite simple and reliable. Such a device consists of only three parts:

  • Drive;
  • Rope;
  • Pointer device.

The undoubted advantages of such speed meters include:

  • Lack of batteries;
  • Independence shown from the influence of electromagnetic fields.

The main disadvantages of a mechanical bike speedometer are:

  • The product is NOT universal and is only intended to be mounted on a bicycle with a specific front wheel size. Therefore, before purchasing, be sure to carefully read the instruction manual.
  • These speedometers are not compatible with all bicycle models.
  • For reliable and long-term operation of the device, the cable must be lubricated periodically.

Pros and cons of electronic devices

The most popular nowadays are electronic bicycle speed meters. A convenient digital display shows Not only the speed (current, average for the trip and maximum), but also the time, as well as the mileage (day and total). Package Included:

  • The digital device itself;
  • Mounting panel;
  • Readout sensor;
  • Magnet;
  • Connecting wire;
  • Elements for installation and fastening.

The main advantage of such devices: they are universal and they are easy to adapt to any type of bicycle, regardless of the size of the front wheel. The disadvantage, albeit minor, is the need to periodically replace the battery.

Setting up a bicycle electronic digital speedometer

How to adjust the speedometer on a bike? Quite simple if you approach this process with due care. First of all, By removing the battery (if installed by the manufacturer). We do this in order to return all factory settings to their original position.

Then we measure the circumference of the front wheel. This can be done in two ways:

  • Turning the bike with the wheels up. We apply a flexible tape around the tire. We write down or memorize the obtained measurements (necessarily in millimeters).
  • We set the bike upright. Use a long ruler to measure the diameter of the front wheel (D). According to the formula (well known to everyone from school) L = πD Calculate the circumference.

Using the buttons installed on the device case, enter the obtained value. The speed readings will now accurately match the specific bike. A small error (which appears as a result of the tire being pushed under the weight of the cyclist) can be neglected.

Further, using the button for switching modes of operation, Set the exact time and mileage of the bike (if known). After each ride, using such a speedometer on a bicycle, you can find out: the start and end time of the trip, mileage, average and maximum speed. We reset the readings before the next trip.

Wireless bike speedometer

A wireless speedometer on a bicycle (sometimes also called a bicycle computer) differs from a conventional electronic device in that there is no need to connect the readout sensor to the main device with wires. Readings are transmitted via radio signal.

This greatly simplifies the installation of the device. It is enough just to fix:

  • Sensor on the front fork;
  • Spoke magnet;
  • The device itself (depending on size and design) on the handlebar or wrist.

The feeding elements are installed in both the sensor and the main device. The cost of such devices is more expensive (compared to digital wired models).