They are not all the same and you need to know a little about their construction. So, the pedal is part of a system that includes a set of sprockets, a crank carriage and, in fact, a set of axles, platforms, bearings and accessories. on this below.
Structurally, a bicycle pedal consists of several parts:
- The axle is a metal pin that is screwed into the connecting rod. Provides the basis for the rest of the structure.
- Platform. a plane that contacts the foot and is fixed on the axis.
- Bearings. the assembly that connects the axle and platform, allowing rotation.
- Fittings. bolts and nuts that fix all the components of the pedal. Unscrewed during disassembly.
Required tools and materials
Before removing the pedals, it is necessary to prepare the tool and auxiliary materials that are most likely to be needed.
- lubrication. it is recommended to clean and lubricate the removed parts;
- cleaning rags;
- kerosene or solvent. in case the axles do not unscrew or there are large contaminated areas.
- an adjustable wrench is a universal solution, a small one is desirable, otherwise it will be difficult to get to the nut;
- open-end wrench for 15. fits almost all models;
- bicycle kit. in case of emergency;
- pedal wrench. supplied by manufacturers for non-standard nuts and just in sets;
- puller. addition to the foot pedals. a standard tool, often supplied by the manufacturer, serves to hold the axle when turning to the side with a wrench.
Take the survey
- Platform. The widest part that the foot is placed on. Must withstand frequent use, constant exposure.
- Axis. The base of the pedal to which the platform is attached. It looks like a metal tube.
- Bearings. Connector that holds the axle and platform together. Provides rotation of products.
- Fittings. Bolts, nuts and any other fasteners. Holds all structural elements together.
Also, details are often supplemented with locknuts, caps, cups, overlays, reflectors. The more complex the design, the more difficult it is to disassemble the bicycle pedals. Repair can be complicated by additional elements, tightly twisted fittings. A separate category includes clipless pedals and shoes called cycling shoes. Products are difficult to repair, as they have a different installation scheme.
There are combined parts. So, on the one hand, a contact-type plate is placed, and on the other, a standard one. But the repair is carried out in the same way as for the contact pedal. Removal of products may be required in the following cases:
- Prevention of theft. A great way to keep your property safe, but you will need to carry tools and extra storage pouch. And the pedals should be removed quickly.
- Simplification of transportation. During transportation, remove any parts that can be disconnected, which makes it possible to reduce the dimensions of the transport.
- For easy storage. To maintain functionality and integrity during long-term storage.
- Replacement. Installing new pedals means dismantling old products.
- During maintenance. They are removed in order to lubricate and clean parts, to prevent breakage, the appearance of a squeak.
You should not unscrew them by hand; tools are used for this. Regardless of the reason for removal, the process is carried out according to the instructions. To work with conventional pedals, it is enough to read the recommendations of specialists. Contact products require experience and dexterity.
What to do if the thread is stuck
When dismantling, a common problem can arise. sticking of the threads. You can cope with it yourself. The place of boiling is treated with a special composition WD-40, left for a few minutes. After a while, try to work on the mount again. WD-40 can be replaced with similar formulations.
Ordinary kerosene will do, but then the liquid is kept on the fasteners for up to three hours or more.
In difficult cases, it will not be possible to eliminate sticking with kerosene and even a special liquid. Then the installation becomes more difficult. Experts recommend lengthening the lever, putting a wrench on the pipe to increase the impact force. Small bicycle keys will be useless. There are other ways:
- pour boiling water over the junction;
- warm up with a construction hairdryer;
- heat with a soldering iron.
It is forbidden to use open fire. Any heating is prohibited for plastic products, therefore the choice of pedals affects the way of dismantling. It is permissible to hit the thread hard, but the blow must be accurate, it is forbidden to mechanically act on the connecting rod.
HOW TO REMOVE A STRIPPED BOLT OFF YOUR BIKE!
Heating helps to facilitate removal. The process gradually reduces the stocking density.
If the thread is stuck, this place is treated with WD-40 and left for a few minutes, after which they try to unscrew the pedal again
In difficult cases, you can pour boiling water over the junction, warm it up with a construction hairdryer or a soldering iron
You need to know how to remove pedals from a bicycle for repair, preventive cleaning. Parts of different types of parts are identical. A distinction is made between standard and clipless pedals. The latter are distinguished by a special fastening for better grip with special shoes. Standard products consist of the following elements:
Variety of pedals
Depending on the platform, the pedals are divided into:
How To Remove Bicycle Pedals. The Easy Way
Required tools and supplies
When replacing, as in repairing (servicing) the pedal, you will most likely need the following materials: cleaning rags, thinner or kerosene and heavy grease.
Removing and disassembling bicycle pedals may require tools such as:
How to remove pedals from a bike?
But before proceeding to dismantle the bicycle pedal, make sure that you have all the necessary tools and materials for this, namely:
- A solvent that can be replaced with kerosene;
- With a screwdriver or key;
- Open-end wrench;
- Pullers that are needed to remove the contact pedal.
How to check the pedal
It is very important to prevent the formation of backlash. free play. on the pedal axis. You can check the part for its presence by holding the axle and moving the platform back and forth. Noticed a backlash. tighten the lock nut under the plug more tightly.
If the thread on the axle “stuck” to the connecting rod and is not removed
- You can apply WD-40 to the junction for 10-15 minutes and try to unscrew it again.
- If there is no WD-40, you can use other means (analogs of WD-40) or, for example, kerosene (you need to wait 2-3 hours already).
- If after that it is difficult to unscrew. try increasing the length of the lever. Just take a longer key or put a metal tube on it to increase the shoulder (Archimedes’ law has not been canceled yet).
- Some cyclists offer another way. At the junction of the axle and the connecting rod, water is gradually poured from a boiled kettle, forcing the metal to warm up a little and, because of this, reduce the seat density. Personally, I have not tried this option and it seems to me that the boiling water temperature of 90-100 degrees will not heat the connecting rod very much, although it will be washed out for sure.
It is more logical to try to warm up this place with a construction hairdryer or a powerful soldering iron. When working with a hair dryer, heat exactly the junction of the axle and the connecting rod and monitor the temperature of the pedal body, especially if it is plastic.
It’s definitely not worth warming up this place with an open fire.
To surely learn the algorithm for disassembling and installing pedals, you need to understand how they work.
Firstly, the bicycle pedal is one of the most important components of the system, which also includes sprockets, connecting rods, shanks, axle, accessories, platform, bearings known to all cyclists. The last four together form a complex system of parts known as the “pedal“.
So, the axis is a pin made of metal. It is screwed into the connecting rod and taken as the basis of the pedal. The platform is in contact with the feet. It is fixed on the axis, connecting everything with a bearing, which is responsible for the rotation of the pedal. And finally, the hardware consists of bolts and nuts. It is needed to fix all the elements of the described structure.
Despite the general model of the mechanism, the constructive set of components of the pedal may be different depending on the type of this rotational part of the bicycle. There are contact and conventional pedals, differing in platform: the first has special mounts for shoes and their device is a little more complicated than all the usual simple pedals. There are also combined types that combine both a contact device and a conventional pad.
The pedal on the bike is unscrewed what to do
How to lubricate pedals
In order for the pedals to work properly, its bearings must be lubricated from time to time. Litol-24, TsIFTIM-201 are ideal for this task, while the former is best used in winter or late autumn at subzero temperatures.
How to unscrew the pedals on a bike?
From time to time, any vehicle or a specific part of it needs repair. In the case of a bicycle, you may be faced with the need to fix the pedal, for example, if you notice that your two-wheeled friend suddenly began to make unusual, unpleasant sounds when riding: knocking, creaking, crunching. In this case, you will need to remove the pedal without fail and inspect it for damage. You can find out how to do this by reading this article.
Semi-automatic telegraph key
The idea of creating a telegraphic manipulator from paper clips is not new. I, in particular, got it from here: http://www.us7ign.com/?p=631
Elementary, as you can see, even a child can cope.
But when I found a suitable piece of PCB, bent a couple of paper clips and bolted it all together, it became clear that the structure was too light.
For normal operation, you will either need to attach it rigidly to the table, or somehow make it heavier. I chose the second option, plus I bought a set of self-adhesive rubber feet for radio equipment.
To make it heavier, I decided to make a lead base. To do this, he blinded a model of the base from plasticine, put it in the freezer for a couple of hours (for hardness). In a ceramic bowl, he spread the finishing plaster putty. He smeared the plasticine model with technical vaseline, punctured several holes in the bottom for air outlet and pressed it into our plaster. Yes, a bowl, i.e. the flask, before filling with plaster, also smeared with technical vaseline. During the night and half a day, the mold froze, I carefully picked out the plasticine and placed it in the oven to warm it up. I warn you that the heated remnants of plasticine and grease smoke decently when heated, so prepare to ventilate the room abundantly or work under a hood. Lead was smelted from old fishing weights in a canned fish can on a gas stove. It should be poured into a well-heated form, otherwise it hardens unevenly, in lumps. As a result, having slightly trimmed it with a file, we got the basis for our manipulator:
The manipulator was done under the left hand. Thumb. dots, index. dashes. As a cable, I used a piece of headphones for a smartphone with a 3.5 mm minijack. Screen. on the center clip, left, right channel. on the side.
Now it’s up to the key. Industrial radios usually have a built-in key circuit, but I’m making a Morse code kit for training, so I started looking for a suitable prototype circuit. The first version was assembled according to this scheme: http://www.radionic.ru/node/1026
The scheme worked. But with some nuances. Sometimes lags are observed in the form of a repetition of characters (instead of one dash, two, etc.). Apparently, due to the imperfection of the manipulator and, as a result, the bounce of contacts.
It was decided to modify the circuit a little, in particular, in terms of noise immunity. For this, Schmitt triggers are installed at the input from the manipulator.
The final circuit, after debugging, looks like this:
On the DD1 microcircuit, a dot generator is assembled, which also works in the dash generation mode. Its frequency determines the transmission rate. It is started by applying a logical zero to input 6 DD1, formed by the closure of the manipulator, passed through two Schmitt triggers. Why two? There are already six inverters in the 4584 microcircuit, and I only need two, but a repeater. Including two inverters in series, we get the inversion of the inversion, i.e. repeater. In this case, the signal is already freed from the “bounce”. On the left half of the DD2 flip-flop, the frequency divider is assembled by 2. Thus, we get a guaranteed “meander”, even if the pulses of the master oscillator are not entirely symmetrical. The duration of the pause between points is equal to the duration of the point. This is the Morse code standard. On the second half of the DD2 trigger, a frequency divider by 2 is also assembled, but it works only when the manipulator is closed to the “dash” position, when a logical one is removed from its input “R” (reset). Thus, at the output, we get the pulse and pause duration at two points. The point generator also works in this case. The “double dot” is added to the “single dot” on the 2-AND-NOT element, thus we get the duration of a dash in three dots, the pause between dashes is one dot. This also applies to the Morse code standard. Changing the dot generator frequency changes the baud rate, but the standard ratios remain in effect. The circuit implements “self-grabbing”, i.e. if, say, close the manipulator to the “dash” position for a time shorter than the duration of the dash, then the character will still be issued to the end, of the standard duration. The same applies to points. This is done using diodes. A sound generator is assembled on the DD3 microcircuit to control the operation, from its output the bass tone is fed through a transistor amplifier to the buzzer. The desired tone frequency is adjusted with R7. The output signal is also indicated by a light signaling on the HL1 LED. A relay can be used to switch a telegraph transmitter.
The assembly was carried out using SMD components. The board is laid out in the Sprint-Layout program, manufactured by the LUT method. After fixing all the identified errors:
During the development process, several mistakes were made, it was necessary to promptly correct:
The key works without remarks, no lags are observed.
Well, I did not understand the first version of the key. So, it turned out I had two of them. It was decided to leave one for training the Morse code, and the second to “make friends” with the Chinese QRP micro-transceiver “Pixie”, bought in the form of a constructor, for the sake of curiosity, for 5. And the tea box came in handy:
To remove the connecting rods from the bike shaft without damage, you should strictly follow the sequence of actions used in the professional repair of bicycle equipment. There are many connecting rod mounting systems and they are different from each other. We will look at a popular system in budget bikes. “squared”:
remove plastic plugs if the bike is equipped with them;
fill the joint of the crank and shaft with WD-40 liquid to completely dissolve the dirt and facilitate the dismantling process. If not, you can use brake fluid or engine oil to remove the lever as easily as possible;
fix the bike. Check the conformity of the dimensions of the square shaft at the attachment point of the connecting rod and the puller rod. The latter must be smaller, otherwise it will be impossible to dismantle the lever. the thread will break;
unscrew and remove the bolt holding the lever on the shaft;
place the tool in the lever and tighten it to the limit. Thoroughly clean the threads before doing this. In this case, the puller rod must be turned out to the maximum level;
forcefully push both connecting rods off the shaft, completing the dismantling process
Special care should be taken in this case, since excessive force is unlikely to help dismantle the cranks, but it is likely to break the thread.
The dismantling of the bike bike assemblies should be continued by cleaning and abundant lubrication of all working components, which should help in future repairs and save the bike from unnecessary wear, as well as from extraneous squeaks and noise when walking.
Installing the connecting rod
By the last stage of the repair, all parts should be cleaned and generously coated with grease. This will make it easier and faster to put the crank back on the bike. In the future, it will be much easier to remove the part, and during the ride there will be no unnecessary squeaks and crunches.
The connecting rod is deeply seated on the shaft so that no backlash occurs during movement, otherwise the seat will loosen and be broken. Fixation is achieved by tightening the mounting bolt by 50-70 Nm with significant effort (taking into account the length of the connecting rods). It is recommended to inspect the integrity of the connection before installation. The process is carried out as follows:
The connecting rod is an important part that carries a significant portion of the load. It is simple in its structure, therefore it can be dismantled without problems, it can be replaced in the event of a breakdown. When repairing, it is worth using a puller, study the instructions on how to remove the connecting rod from the bike, especially if there is no experience of the corresponding work.
DIY bicycle crank puller
When to remove the connecting rod
Usually the connecting rod does not need any special maintenance or service. This part can be replaced in three cases:
Repair without tools is possible
Ordinary users are unlikely to have a connecting rod puller somewhere, especially for the Octalink, although it costs a penny. But sooner or later the moment will come when either the system or the carriage will become unusable and require urgent replacement. If you have the necessary tools, the replacement of these parts is carried out in 10-15 minutes.
The easiest way to remove cranks from a bike without a puller, as mentioned above, is with a hammer. It is relevant for both Octalink and a regular square. The subsequent actions look like this:
It is worth saying that removing stuck connecting rods can be problematic, even with a puller. Most likely, in this way you will not be able to remove the stuck bicycle crank, no matter how hard you try. But do not despair, for such cases they came up with other ways.
Those who have dealt with stuck spare parts probably would not want to repeat this again. To prevent such unpleasant situations, you just need to process the attachment point before installation.
When replacing connecting rods, apply some grease to the bottom bracket shaft where it contacts other parts, regardless of type. Do not add too much lubricant, since at the time of pressing, its excess will be squeezed out of the connection and will remain to collect dirt outside it. Before installation, it is also worth lubricating the threads and even some latches.
What are the pullers
A bicycle crank wrench is a special tool (usually a press) that makes it much easier to remove the system, unlike a hammer.
Each of the above standard has its own puller. In the case of a square shaft and Octalink, this is a kind of press that is screwed into the connecting rod head itself, rests on a special platform against the carriage shaft and, by screwing in a nut, breaks the connecting rod. There are cases of breakage of the thread of the connecting rods themselves, if the system was pressed very hard.
The left end cap with Hollowtech II requires a special sprocket wrench. The clamping bolt is tightened with a force of only 1-2 N / m, so a key of this standard is usually plastic, inconvenient, and the cover can be easily unscrewed by hand.
A special tool is good, and every bike lover should get it. But still, let’s move on to the main question. how to remove the bicycle cranks without a puller?
Bicycle connecting rods: general information
The bike drivetrain has a pair of cranks located on either side of the bottom bracket. Parts are mounted on the carriage shaft using special fasteners. Depending on the manufacturer and type of bike, the mountings differ, and we will definitely talk about this a little later.
The connecting rod pair together with the chainrings forms a system. It can be collapsible and non-collapsible. The first type is found on budget bikes, including single-speed road bikes. Here, the wear of the sprockets develops simultaneously with the fatigue of the lever material. In case of premature failure of the connecting rods, the system must be completely replaced.
According to the standard, the stars are located on the right in the direction of travel, therefore, the right connecting rod is attached to the sprockets. On mid- to high-end bikes, the sprockets can be changed separately from the crankset. It can be removed and thus only part of the system can be replaced. worn stars.
The connecting rod and the bottom bracket are the most loaded parts of the bicycle transmission, as they directly receive the push-and-rotational forces from the cyclist’s legs. In the manufacture of parts, materials are used:
The weight and shape of the connecting rods play a significant role in the driving dynamics. Manufacturers are trying to make them as lightweight and compact as possible. So, to reduce the weight inside the part, cavities are specially made. The idea belongs to the Japanese manufacturer Shimano:
Internal cavities using Hollowtech technology
It will not work to disassemble the system with an ordinary wrench; this will require a special connecting rod puller. When the tool is pressed in, the part freely unscrews from the carriage axis without damaging it.