How To Replace A Speed Bike Rear Wheel Bearing

Industrial bearing bushing

Many do not like bushings on flare nuts because of the difficulties associated with adjusting them after assembly. In this regard, worn-out resistances are often changed to a variant with “Proma”.

One of the advantages of the industrial bearing design is easy maintenance. There is no need to adjust anything here: the bearing fits snugly in the cup and on the axle, there are flare nuts. In theory, such a wheel does not have to have a backlash, which is demonstrated by expensive copies. In cheaper models, low-grade rolling bearings are used, in which the clearance is observed even from the packaging.

Note. Backlash in the bushings due to “slip” is eliminated only by replacing the bearings. The latter are difficult to remove, therefore, when critical gaps appear, the mechanism is replaced as an assembly.

Bicycle Rear Hub Maintenance

If you ignore the need for periodic maintenance of the rear hub of a bicycle, then the life of the “iron friend” can be greatly reduced. Experienced cyclists know what signs will indicate to disassemble / lubricate / reassemble the rear hub immediately. This process is NOT difficult, but you need to do everything in a certain sequence.

How to disassemble

Initially, it is necessary to provide unhindered access to the flare nuts. For this, they usually remove:

  • Disc brake rotor. Dismantling is NOT in all cases. Make sure that the bolts do not interfere with the installation and rotation of the tapered (thin) wrench. If there is a gap between the key and the disc, it is not necessary to remove the latter. There are situations when the tool fits freely in the back, and on the front sleeve you cannot do without removing the rotor.
  • Cassette / ratchet. It is imperative to shoot, otherwise it is NOT possible to reach the second cone, and indeed DO NOT remove it. The process of dismantling the cassette is shown in the photo.

When the flare nuts are accessible, you can unlock one of them. It is important to follow two rules:

  • Only one side is allowed to unlock! The second must be locked to failure even from the factory and it is forbidden to touch it.
  • You can only unlock the cone located on the side of the rotor mounting (if there is a disc brake, then focus on the side opposite to the cassette). The fact is that the flare nut, weakened from the side of the sprockets, self-tightens upon impacts or hitting an obstacle, which is why the free movement of the sleeve is disturbed. And this reduces the resource and worsens the roll-forward. This does not happen with the left side, since there the cone-nut tends to unscrew, and the lock nut and eccentric prevent this. In total, in such a scheme, the balance is maintained and you can choose a gap without damage to the roll.
How To Replace A Speed Bike Rear Wheel Bearing

The deconstruction procedure is shown on the photographic material. A cone-nut is adhered to with a thin cone wrench, and the lock nut is unscrewed with the second key (for convenience, it is desirable to take a more massive tool). After that, the threaded parts are completely twisted, but removed. Next, you need to remove the anthers and remove the balls from the cups.

Attention! When disassembling, remember the order of the components. The ideal option is to take a photo of the placement of anthers, nuts and washers on fresh tracks, as shown in the image.

When removing balls from their seats, it is important to Separate them into two groups. That which is the case must be put in one place, that which is on the left. in another. DO NOT mix and shackle these groups with each other, otherwise after assembling a perfect roll without backlash you will NOT get.

Important! We take out here on the front wheel of a bicycle without disc brakes, Mark the side of the unrolled cone on the tires. Another landmark on this type of bike is the direction of rotation of the rubber shown on the side.

How to properly disassemble, clean and lubricate the rear hub

Immediately remember one truth: any service is recommended to be carried out with the bushings fastened. Otherwise, there is hardly a chance to assemble the wheel correctly and quickly. only a person who is already experienced in bicycle maintenance can do this.

Step-by-step instructions for maintaining the rear bicycle hub:

  • Remove the cassette from the wasp using a whip and a puller.
  • Opening the retaining ring.
  • Removing all bearings and washers.
    Note:the sleeve can be on industrial bearings and bulk bearings, but in any case, it is very important to remember their original location in the sleeves. This rule must be observed when removing the washers.
  • We carry out a careful inspection of the bearings. if they are damaged, this means the need to replace them with new parts.
  • We take it out here. She does not understand.
  • Bicycle rear hub body We clean it from dirt. All internal cavities must be wiped with a dry cloth.
  • When installing back, each part is thoroughly lubricated, special attention should be paid to the bearings during this process.
  • The last step is to install the stopper and tighten the fastening nut. DO NOT use heavy force to tighten, as this can result in a problem with free wheel rotation.

Of course, everything looks quite easy and simple, but there are a lot of nuances in servicing the rear hub of a bicycle. they must be known and taken into account during operation:

  • First, the direct disassembly of the bushing should be started only after the cassette has been removed. Moreover, the sleeve is disassembled from the opposite side and, as a rule, it is on the left. The locknut, if any, is unscrewed with a 15 mm wrench, then the stopper is removed (again, if any).
  • Secondly, you need to be extremely careful when removing washers and rings. they will need to be laid out on a pre-prepared sheet of paper in the exact order if this moment is overlooked, then assembling the rear bicycle hub after cleaning and lubricating it can turn into real torment.
  • Thirdly, after twisting the housing of the rear hub, it will begin to succumb to it. just at this moment the bearings will appear. And again, you need to be extremely careful when removing the bearings. the parts are small and easy to lose. Each bearing Removing with knitting needles or tweezers, wipe thoroughly with a cloth soaked in kerosene or gasoline, and put it aside. Just in the process of wiping, the bearings must be carefully inspected for damage, and if there are any, then the part must be replaced.
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Note: in the articles and instructions for servicing the rear hub of a bicycle, you can find a recommendation to use acetone to wipe bearings. this is permissible, but it should be borne in mind that the aroma from such a product will NOT be the most pleasant, and acetone can corrode the skin on the fingers. And one more thing. many “kulibins” use a magnet in order not to lose small bearings. this should never be done! The fact is that the bearing is magnetized and during the operation of the bicycle, iron dust is attracted to these small parts. the fact that soon the hub will become unusable can be predicted with confidence.

It is highly undesirable to confuse the left and right parts when disassembling / assembling the rear hub of a bicycle. this can lead to wheel play. If at least one ball is lost, then it will be necessary to carry out a full replacement of the bearings. Sometimes, when opening the bushing near the axle, you can observe iron “dust”. this means that the bearings are completely worn out, they must be completely replaced.

Taper bushings

The most common type. Particularly in the Shimano range, you will NOT encounter a knot on a “slip”. The company explains this by the fact that rolling is better in a design based on cone-nuts. Configuration elements of such a product are shown in the figure:

Tool

In the technology of bulkheads on cones, three stages should be distinguished: disassembly, lubrication and assembly and adjustment. A tool is needed at every stage. The complete cassette hub kit is shown in the photo:

  • Whip.
  • Collar with adapter.
  • Flat screwdriver.
  • Tool for unscrewing the lock nut.
  • Cone wrench.
  • Box spanner 17.
  • Medical tweezers.
  • Caliper plug.

Recommendation. If you plan to service the bike from “A” to “Z” yourself, then a suitcase with tools from X-Tools will be very useful. In particular, it has a chain squeeze and even a spare head. And this, by the way, is an indispensable device Not only at home, but also on a hike. You can buy a set at a democratic price on ChainReactionCycles.

The plug is only needed for hydraulics. In the method describing how to adjust the hydraulic disc brakes on a bicycle, we have already discussed the consequences of accidentally pressing the brake lever in the absence of a rotor in the hydraulic circuit. For a bushing mechanism with a ratchet, a whip is not needed, and the mandrel of the wrench is replaced with an adapter from the slots for an open-end or box wrench. Externally, the adapter sleeve is similar to the cartridge for removing the cassette, which is present in the photo with the tool.

How to lubricate

The ideal option is Teflon composition. For example, Finish Line Premium Grease: very Slippery and viscous. However, Teflon can be replaced with regular Litol-24 or a consistency for car CV joints.

What definitely doesn’t work is any liquid mixture:

  • Bicycle maintenance compound.
  • Car engine or transmission oil.
  • Spindle.

Chain tensioning mechanism

Rear derailleur rollers. They are often “clogged” with deposits of grease and dirt that has thickened around the perimeter. They must be removed carefully, e.g. with a flat-blade screwdriver.

It is necessary to apply a dotted liquid lubricant to the roller axles to avoid squeaking and tight rotation. Only oiled, they are able to keep the chain taut.

How to iterate over the rear and front hub on a speed bike

Bulkhead bushing, whether rear or front, is an event that can be either Forced, due to water entering the bushing, and Regular. Its purpose is for the most part preventive. to change the lubricant and, if necessary, replace some components. If we are talking about a conical bicycle classic, then it can be a worn ball or a cone. However, on high-speed bicycles, there is another type of support, which also needs maintenance.

What are the wheels?

Before you know what a standard bicycle wheel layout includes, it is worth reading the general information about this vital part.

Wheels vary in diameter:

  • 14 ”. size for the smallest cyclists under the age of four.
  • 16 inches. for older riders: 4.5 to 6.5 years.
  • 20 inches is chosen by children 8-11 years old.
  • 24 inches. option for teenagers and those who practice jumping on a bike.
  • 26 inch. “standard” for adult mountain bike.
  • 28 inches in diameter most commonly found on adult road and hybrid bikes.

When to Service the Rear Hub

To ensure that bike parts are always in perfect technical condition, they must be regularly serviced. If we consider the rear hub of a bicycle, then for it you will need:

  • Tighten the body periodically;
  • Change bearing balls regularly;
  • When disassembling again, lubricate all internal parts of the body;
  • Adjust the brake hub from time to time.

Dismantling the rear wheel itself is as easy as shelling pears, but the process of removing and disassembling / assembling the rear bicycle hub is much more difficult. And nevertheless, without such regular maintenance, the part in question may soon need its overhaul or replacement.

Signs that indicate an urgent need to service the rear hub of the bicycle:

  • When driving, there is a strong wheel play;
  • The crunch of bearings is clearly audible (this means that they are simply worn out)
  • On the move, the bicycle body rattles and staggers;
  • Rolling dynamics is bad.

It is worth knowing some of the features of eliminating a particular symptom:

  • If the rear hub casing is spinning, loosening, then this can be eliminated by tightening the fastening nuts.
  • If the movement of the rear wheel is difficult, then it may be necessary to loosen the fastening nut a little. most likely, too much force was applied when tightening it.
  • If extraneous sounds appear when the bike is moving and the roll-forward deteriorates, it will be necessary to replace the bearings or completely lubricate the rear hub housing.
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How to properly disassemble, clean and lubricate the rear hub

Immediately remember one truth: any service is recommended to be carried out with the bushings fastened. Otherwise, there is hardly a chance to assemble the wheel correctly and quickly. only a person who is already experienced in bicycle maintenance can do this.

Step-by-step instructions for maintaining the rear bicycle hub:

  • Remove the cassette from the wasp using a whip and a puller.
  • Opening the retaining ring.
  • Removing all bearings and washers.
    Note:the sleeve can be on industrial bearings and bulk bearings, but in any case, it is very important to remember their original location in the sleeves. This rule must be observed when removing the washers.
  • We carry out a careful inspection of the bearings. if they are damaged, this means the need to replace them with new parts.
  • We take it out here. She does not understand.
  • Bicycle rear hub body We clean it from dirt. All internal cavities must be wiped with a dry cloth.
  • When installing back, each part is thoroughly lubricated, special attention should be paid to the bearings during this process.
  • The last step is to install the stopper and tighten the fastening nut. DO NOT use heavy force to tighten, as this can result in a problem with free wheel rotation.

Of course, everything looks quite easy and simple, but there are a lot of nuances in servicing the rear hub of a bicycle. they must be known and taken into account during operation:

  • First, the direct disassembly of the bushing should be started only after the cassette has been removed. Moreover, the sleeve is disassembled from the opposite side and, as a rule, it is on the left. The locknut, if any, is unscrewed with a 15 mm wrench, then the stopper is removed (again, if any).
  • Secondly, you need to be extremely careful when removing washers and rings. they will need to be laid out on a pre-prepared sheet of paper in the exact order if this moment is overlooked, then assembling the rear bicycle hub after cleaning and lubricating it can turn into real torment.
  • Thirdly, after twisting the housing of the rear hub, it will begin to succumb to it. just at this moment the bearings will appear. And again, you need to be extremely careful when removing the bearings. the parts are small and easy to lose. Each bearing Removing with knitting needles or tweezers, wipe thoroughly with a cloth soaked in kerosene or gasoline, and put it aside. Just in the process of wiping, the bearings must be carefully inspected for damage, and if there are any, then the part must be replaced.

Note: in the articles and instructions for servicing the rear hub of a bicycle, you can find a recommendation to use acetone to wipe bearings. this is permissible, but it should be borne in mind that the aroma from such a product will NOT be the most pleasant, and acetone can corrode the skin on the fingers. And one more thing. many “kulibins” use a magnet in order not to lose small bearings. this should never be done! The fact is that the bearing is magnetized and during the operation of the bicycle, iron dust is attracted to these small parts. the fact that soon the hub will become unusable can be predicted with confidence.

It is highly undesirable to confuse the left and right parts when disassembling / assembling the rear hub of a bicycle. this can lead to wheel play. If at least one ball is lost, then it will be necessary to carry out a full replacement of the bearings. Sometimes, when opening the bushing near the axle, you can observe iron “dust”. this means that the bearings are completely worn out, they must be completely replaced.

Control system and depreciation

The main element of the bicycle device is the steering assembly. It includes several components:

The bike fork serves as a connecting point for the handlebar and front wheel. It is installed in the front glass of the frame with a rod. The steering wheel is inserted directly into the fork, and the wheel is fixed on the ears of the legs. dropouts.

In order for the fork to rotate freely when turning, a steering column is installed inside the glass. It consists of upper and lower cups, bearings and retaining rings. Cups can be pressed or screwed onto the internal thread of the glass (on expensive professional models). Bearings are divided into closed industrial and bulk ball bearings. The rings are put on the fork rod, which is fixed in the steering column.

The handlebar of a bicycle consists of a horizontal curved tube and a vertical rod. The rudders are divided into:

  • Straight (for MTB and hybrids)
  • Curved up (road)
  • Downward curved;
  • Sheep (for road bikes).

The vertical steering rod has a wedge at the end, which fixes the pipe in the fork when tightening the nut.

The stem is a part that determines the distance of the rudder from the frame and is attached to the adjusting tube. Rigid and adjustable stems are installed on different models. Simple road bikes are NOT equipped with a stem. The distance of the steering wheel affects the fit: the further it is, the more the cyclist takes a horizontal position.

Saddle Fixed in the center tube of the frame by a seat post. Height
adjustment will allow you to choose the optimal fit. Saddle widths differ depending on the type of bike: on road models they are wider than on MTB and road models. Saddles can vary in shape and length. They are spring-loaded from below or equipped with dampers.

Cushioning. Ability to dampen vibrations and cushion shock loads. Traditionally, the suspension system is located in the front fork, and these bikes are called hardtails.

The damping consists of a spring and a damper. Depending on the components used, forks are divided into several types (spring / damper):

  • Spring loaded (without damper)
  • Spring-elastomeric;
  • Spring oil;
  • Air-oil.

Adjustment of fork parameters: stroke length (Preload), rebound speed (Rebound) and lock. Forks without shock absorption are called rigid and are used on the road and road models.

In addition to standard cushioning, mountain bikes are fitted with a rear shock absorber to smooth out frame vibrations. Bicycles with two shocks are called bikes.

Broken rear hub

The most common rear wheel hub failure is a loose cone or over-tightening. The weakening of the taper leads to an increase in the wheel axle play. If the situation is the opposite, when the cone is overtightened, then the ease of movement of the bike disappears. In the worst case, the characteristic Crunchy sound in the bearings may be heard. Both situations are emergency, so you need to immediately start repairing the rear hub.

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Eccentric locking rear hub.

Here’s the back sleeve.

This requires removing the rear wheel. On some cam-lock models, no wrenches are required to remove the wheel. On children’s or budget models, the wheel is fixed with two nuts, so wrenches are required.

To tighten the cone, or to eliminate backlash, you will need: a 17 mm key and a 15 mm key. First, loosen the locknut, then tighten or, conversely, loosen the flare nut until the desired result is obtained. As a result, we achieve the elimination of the backlash and then tighten the lock nut.

Poor quality parts will cause the hub axle to bend or break. Only a replacement for another one, of a higher quality, will be the best way out of this situation.

Varieties of rear bicycle hubs, how they differ from each other

The hub is the base of the wheel. Here is the quality of the hub, its weight and size depends on the roll of the bike and the energy consumption of the cyclist during the ride. Bicycle hubs differ from each other in strength, the presence of additional elements and the level of protection from external climatic factors.

The hub is located in the center of the wheel and rotates on bearings. Collapsible balls or factory-made universal sealed bearings are used as bearings. The bearing carries all the pressure of the bike while riding, so its quality must be high.

Hub by means of spokes connected to the wheel rim. Outdated Torpedo bushings contain a brake drum inside the structure, with the help of which the cyclist brakes by reverse pedaling.

The modern bicycle hub features a ratchet mechanism and a cassette cassette that slides over the drum. On the ratchet hub, the bearings are closer to the center, so the load is NOT evenly distributed. Hubs of this type are installed on teenage or budget adult bikes.

The cassette hub is another popular type of rear hub. It has slots on which a cassette with stars is fitted and is fixed with a cassette nut. These bushings are more reliable, the bearings are further from the center of the hub, so the bike can support up to 120 kg.

The third type of rear hubs is a hub with a planetary gearshift system. It combines the functions of the hub and the gearshift of the bicycle.

The entire mechanism is located inside the hub and is protected from dust and moisture. The chain on a bicycle with such a hub lasts longer, as it does NOT change its position. The planetary hub has a high degree of reliability.

The SRAM 3-Speed ​​Planetary Hub design is very simple. But 5 and 7-speed is better not to disassemble. Planetary gears are installed in a special position. this requires a special tool.

Main components

A modern bicycle has two wheels, usually of the same diameter. The rear wheel is usually driven and is driven by a bicycle chain.

The wheel consists of a hub, spokes, rim, tube and tire. Sometimes the tube and tire are one piece, i.e. a tubeless tire.

Spoke hubs with spokes ranging from 12 to 48 Prestige bicycles with composite frames are often equipped with wheels with carbon spokes.

The size of a bicycle wheel is traditionally determined by the outer diameter of the tire in inches. that’s 14 to 29 (1 inch = 2.54cm). Mountain bike is usually equipped with 26 “wheels, and hybrid or touring. 28”.

The rear wheels of sports bikes do NOT contain spokes, as they are made of a solid disc. This design increases wheel rigidity and reduces oncoming air resistance at high speeds. The only drawback is the increased windage, which adds trouble for riders in crosswinds.

The durability of a wheel depends on the design of the rim. Here the strength of the rim depends not only on the safety of the cyclist, but also on the speed of movement. Basically, the wheels of modern bicycles are equipped with rims, which in cross-section resemble a box. This shape of the rim protects it from deformation during overloads and protects the wheel when it meets an obstacle.

The simplest rims are made single-walled. The rim profile resembles the letter “U”. After adding an additional jumper to the profile, a reinforced type of rim is obtained. double-walled. Such a rim is stronger, it is less afraid of obstacles and holes on the roads. The most powerful type of rim is three-walled, when another bridge is inserted inside.

Material

In the manufacture of bicycle wheel rims, steel or aluminum alloys are used in most cases. Steel rims are cheaper, but heavier and more susceptible to corrosion. In recent years, lighter composite materials are increasingly used: carbon and plastic.

Conclusion

A bicycle is a fairly extensive mechanism, and consists of a large number of nodes. During operation, an important indicator is the good condition of each of them. Now that we know how a bicycle works, we can diagnose, repair and service parts.

We work with the inner space of the sleeve

After they have removed it, you need to carefully examine it. As a rule, this part of a bicycle wears out very rarely, but in any case, you will need to thoroughly wipe it off from dirt and dust. This is done with a dry cloth, but in some cases (with heavy pollution) gasoline can be used. So, we wipe the left cone and examine the right one for fastening strength. Only after the walls of the wasp are completely dry (if gasoline was used for processing), you can apply new lubricant to it.

Note: in no case should you use chain lubricant or some other lubricant for the rear hub of the bicycle. you will need to purchase a special tool. For bearings, buckets are often used. this lubricant will be the most suitable. It is not worth applying too thick a layer of grease. it, during the operation of the bike, will be squeezed out and actively absorb dirt, which leads to rapid wear of the part.