Helpful hints to help you in your work:
How To Tighten A Bearing?
Note that overtightening the bushing will not prevent the bushing from spinning, but will accelerate the wear of the bearing components. Riding with an overtightened bushing will likely damage both the cone and the cup, so eventually the bushing will need to be replaced completely. Riding with an unnecessarily loose bushing will give a similar result.
Ideally, bushings with a hollow shaft and an eccentric should have a little slack because when attaching to the bike and snapping the clamp, the wheel axle bends slightly, which compensates for its backlash. If there is no play at all in the hub removed from the bike, this means that it is overtightened. This does not apply to monolithic axles on which the wheels are clamped with nuts. In this case, if the axle is bent or the taper cup is damaged, the bushing can only be thrown away. If necessary, replace damaged parts and proceed to bushing adjustment.
How to sort out a bushing on bulk bearings
Details of the “cone-cup” type bicycle hub. Left to right: lock nut, thin washer and taper.
What you need:
- Taper wrenches (most common sizes: 13, 15, 17 and 19 mm).
- Adjustable wrench (optional).
- Clamp (vise) for clamping the wheel axle (optional).
- Magnet (optional).
- Clean rag, cotton swabs.
Remove the wheel from the bike and pull out the eccentric clamping mechanism (do not lose the two centering springs). Most loose bearing bushings use rubber or plastic boot caps, which must be removed first to gain access to the cone splines. If you are working with a rear hub, you will also need to remove the cassette. Count the number of open threads at the ends of the wheel axle before continuing. If the axle is unthreaded, as in the photo, measure the distance from the end of the axle to the nut with a ruler or vernier caliper.
Always start disassembling the rear hub on the opposite side of the bike (i.e. the left side of the bike) and disassembling the front hub on the opposite side of the brake disc (right).
The first thing you need to do is unscrew the taper from one end of the bushing. Hold the cone with a flare wrench and unscrew the locknut counterclockwise with a flare wrench or adjustable wrench. If you have a special clamp (vise), use it to fix the axle.
Lay the wheel with the weakened side of the hub facing up so that the parts do not fall out, then completely unscrew the locknut, remove the thin washer and cone. Put them somewhere where they won’t get lost.
Grasp the opposite side of the axle and pull it out of the hub body, being careful not to lose the balls. Always pay attention to which side of the hub you are pulling the axle out to avoid assembly problems.
So, you have already removed the cone, washer, locknut and took out the axle itself. Thoroughly clean the removed parts from old grease and dirt. It should be said that in some bushings there is one thick washer between the cone and the locknut, in others there are several thin washers. Washers not only prevent the locknut and taper from loosening, but also provide the necessary clearance between the bushing parts. When assembling the bushing, always use the same washers, placing them in the same order as they were before disassembly.
Now you can check if the bushing is tightened correctly on the opposite side. While holding the cone with a flare wrench, check how well the locknut is tightened by turning it clockwise with a second wrench.
Count the number of balls on each side of the bushing before removing them. The front bushings usually (but not always) use 10 balls, the rear bushings use 9.
The balls can be pulled out of the bushing cup using a magnet or a magnetized screwdriver. If you do not have a magnet, simply pry out the balls with a thin screwdriver. Check the bushing cups again to make sure you haven’t forgotten any balls inside. Many cone-cup bushings are fitted with metal anthers (the silver ring surrounding the balls in the photo above). Anthers are usually pressed into the sleeve, so it is best to leave them alone.
Now your job is to remove any old grease, dirt and small metal particles that may be on the inner surfaces of the bushing. To do this, use a cloth wrapped around your finger or cotton swabs. Now it’s time to carefully check the friction surfaces of the cup and cone. They must be smooth and free from pitting or uneven wear. If you notice damage to the cone, you need to replace it with a similar new one (there are many different sizes, so choose carefully). Unfortunately, nothing can be done with a damaged cup. it is firmly pressed into the sleeve body. Sure, a thick layer of grease will help for a while, but a badly worn cup is a sure sign that the end of the bushing is near.
Do not spare grease. Cover the concave surface of the cup with a thick layer of grease. The grease will also help hold the balls in place during reassembly. Place the balls carefully in the cups on both sides (don’t you forget how many there should be?).
Once you have inserted the balls into the cups, start setting the axis. Apply grease to the friction surfaces of the cone before assembly. Insert the axle from the same side as filmed: for the rear hubs, this is the side of the bike opposite the cassette, for the front hubs, vice versa.
Put the cone in place, put the washer and locknut on the axle. Twist the cone clockwise until it makes contact with the balls, then release it a quarter turn.
Hold the cone with a flare wrench and tighten the locknut. The hub will most likely require further adjustment, but remember what was said earlier, cam hubs removed from the bike should play slightly. After installing and fixing the wheel on the bike, the play will disappear.
Turn the axle of the eccentric bushing with your fingers. it should rotate smoothly, but have a barely perceptible backlash. Place the wheel on the bike and shake it slightly: if the wheel rotates freely and you do not feel any play, everything is fine, your work is over. If not, see further steps.
Remove the bushing rubber boots and eccentric wheel clamp springs (the clamp nut should only contact the outer surface of the bushing locknut). Secure the wheel to the outside of the frame (see photo) by inserting one end of the hub axle into the matching slot in the dropout. Clamp the eccentric with the force with which you usually clamp it when driving.
Grasp the cone and locknut with one hand and wiggle the wheel slightly with the other. If you feel a knock in the cone, this means that you need to tighten the bearing a little.
Hold the cone with one wrench and with the other release the locknut by turning it counterclockwise. Once you release the nut, slightly (10 degrees) turn the wrench holding the cone clockwise. Hold the cone in this position while tightening the locknut. Check the bushing again for play (Step 15). if you feel a knock, repeat the adjustment until it disappears.
One final check: release the eccentric wheel clamp lever a little (about 45 degrees. it should still hold the wheel on the dropouts) and check the hub by slightly wobbling the wheel. there should be a slight play in it. When tightening the eccentric, the backlash should disappear.
Make sure the wheel axle protrudes evenly on both sides of the hub: the number of visible threads on both ends of the axle should be the same. Also compare the number of turns before and after disassembly. it should also be the same. Wipe off excess grease. All.
How to change a tire on a bicycle?
Not everyone punches their own wheels, and not everyone repairs a bicycle on their own. Nevertheless, understanding how you can remove a tire from a bike and put what you need for this and how to do it easily and without unnecessary problems is useful for most riders.
When we remove a bicycle tire?
- The camera is broken. you need to remove the tire, then change the camera, and then assemble the wheel;
- When replacing, in fact, bicycle tires. they tend to wear out, especially with aggressive or prolonged driving;
- When servicing the wheel. when other elements, for example, the camera, can interfere.
Different tools will be needed depending on the design of the bike.
The minimum set is hands (preferably with gloves), nothing else is needed. What is used to facilitate the process?
- Dismantling a bicycle wheel. small oblong plastic plates with a “hook” at the end. Very helpful to hold the edge when starting to dismantle without effort, and then remove it.
- Any replacement of the folding. keys (from locks or wrenches), coins, sticks are often used (which is quite traumatic, by the way).
- Wrenches for removing the wheel. there are also models where the axle is fixed with bolts, not eccentrics.
- Pump. needed when installing the wheel back.
So, what needs to be done to remove the tire from the bike?
- We begin to remove the wheel by washing out the brakes (in the case of V-Brake) or removing the caliper (disc), they can greatly interfere with the next steps.
- Loosen the bolt or eccentric holding the wheel in the frame.
- We take out the wheel.
- We release excess air from the chamber through the nipple, it is important that there is as little air as possible, otherwise the camera can easily be touched and damaged.
- We pry off the edge with the help of unbundling or its replacement at one point.
- We measure 10-15 cm and repeat the operation, bending the segment between the two bevels, and, taking it outside the rim, outward.
- Carefully continue removing the tires until one side is completely behind the rim.
- We repeat the action in the same direction with the second side of the tire. Usually this stage is already easier.
Repair of the camera only is limited to items 1-7.
- It is necessary to put on the tire, starting to lay it inside the rim with one side.
- On the last 15-30 cm, we fix one side of the tire with a bead and carefully transfer the entire edge inside the rim.
- Place the edge of the tire inside the rim and install the camera.
- We repeat the process of folding through the rim with the second edge of the tire to finally put it on.
- We mount the wheel, close the brakes.
Do not forget that all actions should be carried out correctly. Rubber does not like heavy loads, especially the thin and soft rubber used in cameras. All operations with the tube inside the tire should be done delicately.
Radio Flyer Hubcap Removal
Do-it-yourself tire removal is no big deal, and most riders do this repair exercise the first time around. Accuracy of execution, the availability of convenient tools. and changing the camera will not be difficult.
How to do without a special puller
In order for the equipment to serve as long as possible, it is recommended to remove and replace the worn out parts of the bicycle with a special tool. But there is an option of how to remove the elements of the driven part of the ratchet without a special puller:
Replacing the cassette on a bicycle without using a puller is not recommended, since it will not be possible to carry out this manipulation without damaging the transmission. The bike will have to be returned to the workshop for repair.
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Consistency in actions is an important point.
What difficulties can there be
If the bike has not undergone maintenance before and the transmission will have to be removed for the first time, then some difficulties are possible:
- The mechanism twists heavily, it is not possible to disassemble it, and to remove it even with enormous efforts. We will correct this moment. You can stock up in advance with a special aerosol. spray WD-40. It is designed to facilitate repair work with a bicycle and car. It is necessary to treat the desired mechanism with an aerosol and wait for the specified time, after which it will be much easier to unscrew and remove the parts;
- If you disassemble the cassette inattentively, the parts and fasteners are messed up. In order to avoid this, it is advisable to replace parts carefully, remembering the entire sequence of subsequent steps, possibly with a note, or use the instructions attached to the new bike part.
What tool do you need
Shabby sprockets are subject to mandatory replacement, as they take the bike out of service. In order to remove them correctly, it is necessary to supply tools, with the help of which the replacement can be carried out easily without damaging the parts. The stars are divided into two categories in terms of the level of action in the transmission:
- the system of leading stars (from one to three). located at the crankset with pedals, on the right side;
- driven. located on the rear wheel, they are in the form of a ratchet or cassette.
Depending on which category of elements on the bike fail, the necessary tools are selected to remove them. Bike Lead System Tools Required:
- puller for connecting rods;
- technical grease and napkins;
- keys. cap and open;
- purchased replacement parts.
With frequent off-road cycling, the smallest one breaks in the leading stars. And at average speeds, on roads with not the best asphalt pavement, the average one fails. If the bike is used for racing at speeds, then the breakdown will be big.
The driven elements fail more often, this is facilitated by the switching of the most popular gears while driving. The tools you will need to remove the sprockets on the rear wheel of your bike are:
- cassette remover;
- adjustable wrenches;
- open-end wrenches for removing the wheel for repair work;
- whip. a retainer with a chain;
A ratchet drivetrain is commonly found on budget 5-8 speed bikes. And the cassette is a modern and modernized solution that includes, at the moment, up to 12 constituent elements.
How to remove a star from a bike
In order for the bike to be in good working order for a long time, it is necessary to carry out an inspection from time to time. First of all, the chain comes into a worn out state, and behind it the stars on the wheels are the main components in the gearshift system. These parts can be removed and replaced by yourself by purchasing the corresponding parts in advance. How to remove a sprocket from a bicycle and replace it with a new one, we will consider below.
The rear wheel drivetrain is more complex and consists of many components. When the ratchet becomes unusable, it remains only to remove it with a puller and an adjustable wrench, and replace it with a new one, since it is monolithic and does not consist of individual stars. But the cassette is just to be repaired. To do this, take the following steps:
How to remove the Push Nuts on power wheels and other kid toys
- The wheel is dismantled from the bicycle using an open-end wrench. If the mount is eccentric, then it is much easier to remove the wheel by opening the retaining lever;
- With an adjustable wrench, unscrew the axle nuts (using another nut for convenience) and remove the axle;
- Install the puller with slots in the grooves of the retaining ring;
- The whip is placed on a star (preferably a large one) and held;
- The puller is turned counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench, and the whip is directed in the opposite direction so that the cassette does not scroll. Sometimes you have to make a lot of effort;
- The retaining ring is unscrewed and the entire cassette is removed. They select the worn-out stars in the mechanism and remove them, replace them with new ones. It is important not to confuse the sequence of disassembling and assembling the cassette parts and the bicycle mountings;
- After it was possible to remove the parts, you should clean the cassette from dirt, replace the worn out elements and lubricate the mechanism.
- it is advisable to apply lubricant to the thread of the retaining ring at the beginning of the assembly. then at the next MOT of the bike the mechanisms will be removed more easily;
- the stars should be assembled in the same sequence, alternating with spacer rings;
- put on, twist and tighten the locking ring clockwise;
- fasten the axle with nuts from the side of the cassette, tighten the chain and put the rear wheel in place.
Check the idling operation of the transmission.
You can remove and replace worn-out sprockets on your bike yourself, it’s not difficult at all. Professionals recommend conducting a technical analysis of the bike’s transmission at least once every 2 years, for early identification of problems. Thanks to this, the cyclist will be spared from bitter surprises on the road, on trips, and the mechanism itself and the bike will serve for many years.
Removing a wheel from a bike
Removing the rear and front wheels of a high-speed bike, as well as cassette and sprockets.
Carrying out various types of repair work on bicycles is, in essence, not so difficult. This type of transport has rather simple designs of most of the parts, which allows its owners to carry out repair work with their own hands, instead of contacting a master. It is only important to show a little patience and diligence when performing certain types of work, especially those associated with any complex structures such as a brake system or gearbox. This is usually the case with high-speed and mountain types of devices.
How can this be done?
Removing the wheel will not be difficult for the owner of the bike, if all the steps are performed correctly. First of all, you need to determine what parts are planned to be removed. Most of the difficulties arise precisely with the rear. Before removing the rear wheel of a bicycle, you need to determine which brakes are used on it. It is important to remember that if the bike is high-speed, then the brakes, as a rule, are disc brakes and their repair should be carried out as carefully as possible so that, before removing the rear wheel of the bicycle, by unforeseen accident, the sprocket, which is the heart of the brake and the speeds of this type of transport.
- So, having decided on the brakes, you can already get down to business.
To carry out this repair work, the bike must be turned upside down so that the installation is fairly stable. The wheel is removed by unscrewing a special nut on which it is fixed. The nut is unscrewed in the classical way counterclockwise. When unscrewing, you need to be careful and careful not to hurt the tire, brakes and sprocket. It is not necessary to unscrew the nut completely, as it may be sufficient to simply loosen it until the wheel can be removed. If there is a desire to return it back to its place, then it will be enough just to put it exactly in the grooves and tighten the nut again. It is only important to remember that the nut is already being screwed not against, but back, clockwise.
There is also a special lever instead of a nut. The situation is even simpler with it, since no wrenches are required to unscrew it. In order to remove the wheel using the lever, it is necessary, as well as the nut, to start unscrewing it counterclockwise until it becomes possible to remove the part. In the same way, it can be put back and forth.
Repairing the front part is even easier than the rear one, because it is not equipped with brakes and other complex systems. It may be necessary to remove the front wheel, for example, in order to remove the tire from it. To do this is elementary and simple. It is enough, as in the rear element, to unscrew either the nut using special sized wrenches or using the lever, in the right direction and carefully. At the same time, no structures will interfere with the repair, which greatly simplifies the task.
Summing up, we can conclude that removing the wheels is not such a difficult task. The main thing in this matter is to show maximum accuracy and to turn the parts correctly, on which, in fact, the wheels are fixed. Following this algorithm, you can easily provide yourself with a high-quality repair of wheels or other necessary spare parts, which will subsequently allow you to fully enjoy driving your favorite vehicle.