Replacing the camera
To remove the tube from the tire, you must completely deflate it. It is necessary to pry the latter with spoons for disassembly, inserting them at a distance of about 15 cm from one another. After that, you need to start to spread the spoons little by little, until the entire side of the tire is removed from the rim. It remains to remove the nipple and remove the camera.
Installing a new camera is carried out in the reverse order:
- It is necessary to insert the nipple into the rim and tuck the entire tube into the tire around the circumference, avoiding twisting and wrinkling.
- Before beading the tire onto the rim, you can slightly inflate the tube so that it takes its shape and takes its place in the tire.
- After prying the tire, it is necessary to fill it with spoons into the rim, first in the nipple area and then along the circumference.
After making sure that the tire has taken its place on the rim, you can inflate the tube to working pressure. After that, it remains to deal with the installation of the rear wheel of the bike, and the repair can be considered complete.
The most common type. Particularly in the Shimano range, you will not see a knot on the “slip”. The company explains this by the fact that the design based on cone-nuts has better reel. The configuration elements of such a product are shown in the figure:
Removing the sleeve
Repair and maintenance of the rear wheel hub begins with dismantling the cassette with driven sprockets. For this, you will need a special tool in the form of a whip and a puller. The cassette is always mounted on the wheel on the right-hand thread. This is what ensures its rigid connection with the element itself and allows it to be rotated clockwise. This means that you need to remove the cassette by spinning it in the opposite direction. After that, access to the axle and bearings is opened.
Any diagram indicates that the bushing designs for road, road and mountain bikes are different in structure. The very center of the rear wheel is equipped with three types of bearings:
- industrial bearings (usually with anthers);
- cone-cup bearings with balls on the cage;
- cone-cup bearings with loose balls.
When disassembling, it is necessary to clearly lay out all the removable elements of the bushing in such a way that the subsequent assembly of the wheel allows each part to take its original place.
Disassembly of the rear wheel hub starts from the left side. Sequencing:
- With one wrench, grip the cone on the right side, and with the second. the locknut on the left and screw it.
- Remove the washer between the locknut and the cone. The last element should be screwed off the axle without any effort.
- After removing the cone, carefully remove the cage or pour out the balls (depending on which type of bearing is installed in a particular model). Sometimes, in the case of balls, for this you need to shift the axis to the left.
- Place the balls in kerosene or other petroleum-based solvent.
- After that, remove the balls from the right side equally carefully. It is better not to screw the right cone and lock nut unnecessarily. This will allow you to maintain the position of the axle and later fix the wheel in the bike fork without unnecessary problems.
- Carefully inspect the working surface of the cleaned cones. The slightest irregularities indicate that they must be replaced.
- If there is damage to the surface of the cups, then the entire rear wheel hub must also be replaced. If everything is in good condition, then you can proceed to the assembly procedure.
When assembling the wheel, first of all, liberally lubricate the surface of the hub cups. A grease is fine for this. It is necessary to squeeze balls into the layer of the agent on the right side of the bushing or install a cage with bearings and insert an axle. If it was necessary to move the axis to the right to remove the balls from the left side, then it must be inserted not all the way, but just enough so that it would allow the balls to be put in place.
After installing the balls or a cage, it is necessary to insert the axle to the end and screw the left cone onto it so that it rests against the balls. Then put the washer back in place and tighten the left lock nut with slight effort. It is necessary to unscrew the cone on both sides with force so as to ensure free rotation of the axis. If the rotation of the wheel is not light enough or there is play, it is necessary to re-adjust the pressure of the cone of the left side of the axle.
If the wheel rotates freely and there is no play, then the maintenance or replacement of the bearing has been completed successfully.
If damage was found during the inspection of the surface of the cups, then the bushings must be replaced. This process is rather complicated. Read the instructions before removing the bushing. The fact is that to replace the element, you need to spacing the wheel.
The lacing pattern must be sketched or photographed before disassembly.
It is necessary to unscrew all the spoke heads and remove them from the hub. The likelihood of making a mistake will be much less if, after removing the parts, they immediately insert them into the corresponding socket of the new bushing. After all the spokes are in place, it is necessary, by pulling them up, to give the wheel the shape of an umbrella, and then align the rim. In the process of work, the vertical runout of the wheel is first eliminated. After they have disappeared or reduced to a minimum, horizontal beats are eliminated. In this case, it is necessary to loosen the knitting needles on one side and immediately tighten the knitting needles by the same number of revolutions on the other side.
Main constituent parts
The rear wheel of a speed bike consists of the following parts:
How to lubricate
The ideal option is a Teflon compound. For example, Finish Line Premium Grease: very slippery and viscous. However, Teflon can be replaced with the usual Litol-24 or the consistency for the CV joints of the car.
What definitely doesn’t work is any liquid mixture:
- Bicycle chain maintenance compound.
- Car engine or transmission oil.
It may be necessary to dismantle the rear wheel in the following cases:
- there is damage to the rim;
- broken tire or deflated tube;
- complete wheel wear.
For disassembly and subsequent assembly of the rear wheel of a bicycle with your own hands, in addition to traditional open-end wrenches, you will also need special tools:
- a puller for the type of cassette that is installed on a bicycle (for example, the mechanism of cassettes of the Stealth model and KhVZ road vehicles has a completely different design, therefore, suitable types of pullers are needed);
- whip. a cassette fixing device, consisting of a lever with pieces of a bicycle chain attached to it;
- a spoke wrench (it is desirable that it has at least three slot sizes, which will allow you to capture even old knitting needles with a knocked-down square of heads);
- special spoons for tire bead.
Advanced cyclists can use the repair stand to work in a natural pose.
Puller Whip Spoke Wrench Bicycle Mounts
How to properly disassemble, clean and lubricate the rear hub
Immediately remember one truth: any service is recommended to be carried out with a snagged sleeve. Otherwise, the chances of assembling the wheel correctly and quickly are unlikely to work. this can only be done by a person who is already experienced in servicing bicycles.
Step-by-step instructions for maintaining the rear bicycle hub:
- Remove the cassette from the axle using a whip and a puller.
- Opening the retaining ring.
- We remove all bearings and washers. Note:the sleeve can be on industrial bearings and bulk bearings, but in any case, it is very important to remember their original location in the sleeve. This rule must be observed when removing the washers.
- We carry out a careful inspection of the bearings. if they are damaged, this means the need to replace them with new parts.
- We take out the axle. it does not understand.
- We clean the body of the rear hub of the bicycle from dirt. All internal cavities must be wiped with a dry cloth.
- When installing back, each part is thoroughly lubricated, special attention should be paid to the bearings during this process.
- The last step is to install the stopper and tighten the fastening nut. It is not necessary to apply great efforts to tighten, as this can result in a problem of free wheel rotation.
Of course, everything looks quite easy and simple, but there are a lot of nuances in servicing the rear hub of a bicycle. they must be known and taken into account in the process of work:
- Firstly, the direct disassembly of the bushing should be started only after the cassette has been removed. over, the sleeve is disassembled from the opposite side and, as a rule, it is on the left. The locknut, if any, is unscrewed with a 15 mm wrench, then the stopper is removed (again, if any).
- Secondly, you need to be extremely careful when removing washers and rings. they will need to be laid out on a pre-prepared sheet of paper in the exact order, if this moment is overlooked, the assembly of the rear bicycle hub after cleaning and lubricating it can turn into real torment.
- Thirdly, after twisting the housing of the rear hub, its axis will begin to give in. just at this moment the bearings will appear. And again, you need to be extremely careful when removing the bearings. the parts are small and easy to lose. We remove each bearing with a knitting needle or tweezers, carefully wipe it with a rag soaked in kerosene or gasoline, and put it aside. Just in the process of wiping, the bearings must be carefully inspected for damage, and if there are any, then the part must be replaced.
Note: in the articles and instructions for servicing the rear hub of a bicycle, you can find a recommendation to use acetone to wipe bearings. this is permissible, but it should be borne in mind that the aroma from such a product will not be the most pleasant, and acetone can corrode the skin on the fingers. And one more thing. many “kulibins” in order not to lose small bearings use a magnet. in no case should this be done! The fact is that the bearing is magnetized and during the operation of the bicycle, iron dust is attracted to these small parts. the fact that the hub will soon become unusable can be predicted with confidence.
It is highly undesirable to confuse the left and right parts when disassembling / assembling the rear hub of a bicycle. this can lead to wheel play. If at least one ball is lost, then you will have to carry out a full replacement of the bearings. Sometimes, when opening the bushing near the axle, you can observe iron “dust”. this means that the bearings are completely worn out, they must be completely replaced.
We begin to disassemble the rear hub, we remove the cassette retaining ring
We remove the inner ring of the bearing itself with two needle-nose pliers, while carefully pushing the “nose” directly into the spline groove of the outer circlip. We fix the stars well, as if turning them along the course of the free wheel. If the wheel has a right hand thread, use the same method. Rotation of the sleeve retaining ring must be counterclockwise.
The outer circlip is characterized by a right-hand thread. When working with a bicycle drivetrain, it is important to consider the direction of rotation of the pedals. Ideally, it should be consistent with the tightening direction. Therefore, the sleeve is unscrewed counterclockwise. When the transmission is located on the right, the rear hub is equipped with a right-hand thread.
The rear hub of the bicycle, its structure and maintenance
The service life of a bicycle directly depends on the quality of its service. For example, repairing the rear hub of a bicycle can be done by hand. Although the bushings can be of different designs, the principle of their assembly and disassembly is almost the same.
It is not necessary to use all the necessary tools to repair the rear hub. You can get by with a minimum set, having previously prepared the workplace. It must be clean, dust-free, and free of lint and thread. Otherwise, the sleeve may be damaged.
How to Avoid Breaking the Rear Bike Hub?
To prevent the occurrence of malfunctions of the rear hub, you should periodically carry out full maintenance, which consists in adjusting its cone, as well as washing the bike, cleaning its parts, lubricating or replacing bearings, washers and oil seals.
To service the rear hub you will need:
- remove the wheel as described above,
- unscrew the nuts located on the axle and remove it (for bushings on bulk bearings) or knock out the axle from the drum side (for bushings on industrial bearings),
- carefully pull out the bearings using tweezers (in industrial bearings, the axle most often comes out with one of the bearings, so to remove the second one, insert a screwdriver into the bushing and knock it out),
- for bushings on industrial bearings, it is necessary to remove the drum by turning it clockwise,
- check the condition of the bearings and, if necessary, replace them,
- thoroughly rinse the bearings with white spirit or gasoline to get rid of the old grease,
- check axle for evenness,
- wipe the axle, cones, wheels and bearing seat in the hub,
- apply special grease to the bearing seat in the bushing and install the bearings,
- lubricate the bearings,
- insert the axle and tighten the nuts so that there is no wheel play (assembly of the rear hub on industrial bearings is carried out in the reverse order).
When it comes to servicing the bike in a slipshod manner, repairing the rear hub can be quite expensive. For example, sometimes due to insufficient lubrication or axle curvature under the action of bearings, potholes form in the body of this bicycle part. In this case, a complete replacement of the rear hub, and possibly the wheel, will be required. To protect yourself from such troubles, we advise you to carry out a visual inspection of the “iron friend” before each departure and eliminate its malfunctions in time.
We turn to the analysis of the rear wheel hub of the bicycle
After removing the retaining ring, we take out the cassette. We put it aside and begin to disassemble the bushing from the left plane (opposite). To unscrew the axle lock nut, you need a 15 mm wrench. If there is a stopper, it is necessary to remove it and.
Important! Confusion of left and right constituent elements is unacceptable. Incorrect assembly disrupts the work of the bushing, especially the backlash. If at least one ball is lost, a complete replacement of the structure cannot be avoided. Replace completely or partially worn balls in a timely manner.
We lay out small elements (rings, washers) on a pre-prepared sheet of paper in the correct sequence so as not to confuse anything during assembly. We twist the cone, after which the axis slowly yields. Now on this very axis the bearings become visible. Carefully proceed to removing the bearing parts, prying them with a thin object (a knitting needle, tweezers will do). Soak a rag napkin with acetone (gasoline) and process all the balls. Then we put them aside. Extraction of “embankments” or industrial bearings from the other side is carried out in a similar way.
How to replace a hub on a bicycle
The bicycle does not require special expenses for repair and maintenance, therefore it is one of the most economical vehicles. Nevertheless, in order for it to serve faithfully for many years, it is still necessary to pay some attention to it. This is especially true for those parts that are subject to heavy loads, for example, bushings.
Reverse side of the medal of planetary bushings
- High friction and responsive gears make planetary bikes unsuitable for racing.
- The sensation of weight gain. However, among planetary hubs, some three-speed counterparts weigh a little. up to 1 kg. When driving, the additional load on the wheel is quite noticeable.
- Self-repair unlikely. To meet a service for the repair of planetary bushings is quite problematic. Due to the disposability of the planetary, repairs will not be cheap, it is more expedient to install a new analog.
- Quite a high price. While the cost is well worth it, installing a new gearbox is not sustainable. The optimal solution is to buy a ready-made bike with her.
It is common for a bicycle with planetary hubs to travel many kilometers on a mostly flat road. It is good to have such a bike for a resident of a settlement with flat terrain or a large city with a developed road network. This drivetrain variation is ideal for frequent city commutes or if you don’t want to waste time on cassettes and chains.
How to remove the rear hub on a speed bike
An article on how to disassemble a bicycle rear hub for maintenance and repair. The article has detailed illustrations.
A ratchet is a unit that includes a drum on which a cassette with stars is put on, a ratchet base that is screwed into the body, pawls with a spring and ball bearings, thanks to which the drum has the ability to rotate on the ratchet base when it is free running. Sometimes the ratchet on some forums is mistakenly, as it seems to me, called “nut”, tk. Walnut looks more like a removable cassette with stars, put on a drum.
Nut. a part of the ratchet base that serves as a support for the main right bearing of the bushing, i.e. bearing carrying the weight of the bike.
The hub housing is everything that is not a ratchet and not main bearings 🙂
A sledgehammer is an old Russian universal tool for disassembling machine parts. In the context of the article. a hammer weighing about 200 g;)
Used tools and materials: 1. Sledgehammer 🙂 2. Hexagons “2” and “11” (“11” is made from factory hexagon “12”) 3. “Special key” made of steel strip 300x29x4.5 mm (LxWxT). I used tough stainless steel, but “black” steel will do. 4. Bench vise (not pictured)
We take out the axle and bearings 1. Remove both locking bosses from the axle, having previously unscrewed the set screws with a hexagon “2”.
“Lightly tapping with a sledgehammer” on the axis from the side of the drum, knock out the left bearing 6200 with the axis. It is best to hold the sleeve in your hand so as not to damage the flanges. Advice: If the bearing does not come out of the aluminum housing, then warm it up with an industrial hair dryer or a burner (carefully!) To 100 degrees and try again without cooling the housing. Use mittens and mittens to avoid scalding!
We take out the axle with the left bearing 6200 from the bushing (from the right bearing 6000)
And remove the left bearing 6200 from the axle. Landing without interference, the puller was not required here. If this area corrodes, use a torch, industrial hair dryer and WD-40 liquid to wet the contact area.
We insert the axle into place and knock out the right bearing 6000 sitting in a “nut” with slots screwed to the base of the ratchet.
Excuse: This method of dismantling involves the subsequent replacement of the bearings, since balls and tracks can be damaged and subsequently begin to crumble. But IMHO it all depends on the strength of the blows. If the bearings came out easily enough, then IMHO they are still quite similar;) !
Remove the ratchet. 4. Clamp the sleeve in a vice by the brake disc flange with a ratchet down or sideways (through a thick rag or a piece of felt) and with a hexagon “11”, inserting it from the side of the left bearing 6200, unscrew the locking sleeve-bolt. The thread is right there.
To remove the ratchet from the bushing body, move the bushing in a vice with the ratchet upwards, insert the hexagon “11” from the side of the right bearing 6000 and unscrew it. Right-hand thread. Addition: For Shimano hubs, use a 10 wrench at this location to unscrew the hub that pulls the ratchet to the body. The thread is also right-hand.
Advice. May need a spanner extension 300-500mm.
Pay attention to the location of the O-ring so that you can put it in later. protrusion to the drum.
We disassemble the ratchet 6. Clamp the “special key” in a vice and install the ratchet on it by inserting the key into the slots of the “nut”. Insert the hexagon “11” into the base of the ratchet and pull off the “nut” from its place. Left-hand thread, i.e. unscrew it clockwise. It may take some effort. Internally, the structure of the ratchet assembly for the concept of the principle of what to twist :):
After the “nut” has been lifted from its place, we clamp the hexagon “11” in a vice, install the ratchet on it and finally unscrew the “nut” with a special wrench. There are three shims under the “nut”. two thin and one thick. The thick one stands on the side of the “nut” (both two and one gasket can be installed). Remove the gaskets with a magnetic screwdriver. We remove the balls of the upper bearing without lifting the drum from its place, so as not to lose the balls of the lower bearing.
Advice. If it is impossible to immediately remove the “nut” from its place, we warm it up with a burner or an industrial hair dryer up to 100-150 degrees. When trying to move the “nut”, we twist the tool back and forth with light jerks. Please note that the “special key” may bend or the hardened slots on the “nut” will cut off its edge. Act carefully.
Addition. The described procedure will prevent the balls from scattering due to awkward movement when manipulating the hexagon and the inconvenient “special key” when you completely disassemble the hub removed from the wheel. If you just need to change the lubricant, then you do not need to unscrew the ratchet from the bushing body, and it is more convenient to unscrew it by pulling the “nut” out of place with a special key clamped vertically in a vice and turning the wheel by hand.
We put the ratchet on the plate. Carefully lift the drum, holding its base, and remove the balls. Do not mix the balls of the lower bearing with the balls of the upper, because they can come from different size groups. However, if rust has already worked there, it won’t matter 🙂
We remove, if necessary, the pawls and the annular spring from the base of the drum.
If it was not possible to remove the adjusting washers earlier, due to the fact that they adhered to the base of the ratchet, we do it now.
The ratchet is disassembled (the spring in the photo is broken in half, the serviceable spring has a mustache for fixing)!
How To Service Your Road Bike Freehub
Analysis of bushing damage caused by corrosion
Typically removing the ratchet base from the hub body for routine maintenance, i.e. cleaning and lubrication is not required. But in the case described below, a complete disassembly of the bushing was required to clean the parts from rust and restore the protective coatings. about these works. in the following articles.
And first, let’s analyze the reasons for such a disastrous state of the parts of this sleeve.
As the autopsy showed, the death of the sleeve (anamnesis. “jammed so that I was riding like on a track bike, constantly pedaling”) was caused by prolonged exposure to water that got into it. Apparently, an insufficiently stable liquid lubricant was used at the plant, because no traces of grease were found (photos were taken immediately after disassembly, without rinsing). The situation was aggravated by the fact that they were applied. industrial bearings! Let’s turn to the facts and consider
The “Nut” part, into which the industrial bearing was pressed, was made by analogy and from the same blank as the analogous “outer ring of the bearing-nut” part of the bush on the cones. The groove, which can be seen at the bottom of the nest, tells us about this. It looks like a fragment of the raceway of a tapered bearing, cut off when boring the socket under the industrial. It is possible that the part was reground already from a ready-made tapered bearing.
How to remove a Shimano Nexus or Alfine hub equipped wheel from your bike
As you can see, there are no O-rings between it and the drum. Meanwhile, in each way sleeve on the cones, seals are used, pressed into the drum in front of the “nut” in the form of a rubber cuff sliding along the cone, and the gap between the “nut” and the drum is obviously filled with a grease necessary for the operation of the tapered bearing. This ensures that the ratchet assembly is sealed on this side.
On the opposite side, a rubber ring is used that seals the drum at the end (a rubber ring on the ratchet thread. in the photo)
In the case of an industrial bearing, ALL the grease is contained in it, and the gap between the “nut” and the drum is dry and open. The bore for locking the bearing, although it has a dirt bumper, but it does not protect against the ingress of water into the ratchet when immersed in water.
The first to suffer from corrosion is the spring, which breaks, then the balls, then the tracks become covered with ulcers, and the dogs turn sour.
The industrial bearings themselves also did not avoid corrosion due to weak seals and a small amount of already coked grease that did not prevent corrosion.
Before installing such a bushing on a bike, I would recommend disassembling the ratchet as described above (but without unscrewing the ratchet itself from the bushing housing) and put waterproof grease in the industrial bearings, ratchet bearings and under the bore of the right bearing. on this in the next article.
During operation of the bike, do not immerse the hub in water for a long time. If you had to do this, then, if possible, you need to quickly remove the wheel and shake out the water from the drum, hitting the wheel on the ground and holding it with a ratchet down.
Bicycle rear hub malfunctions
The most common failure of a bicycle rear hub, which can lead to the need to repair the rear wheel of the bicycle. this is an arbitrary tightening or loosening of the cone. If the cone of the rear hub is loosened, then a large amount of play will be noticeable in the wheel. Alternatively, if the cone is overtightened, the severity of the bike’s travel increases noticeably and the crunch of the bearings can be heard. In both cases, it is necessary to immediately repair the rear hub of the bike. To eliminate these malfunctions, it is necessary to remove the rear wheel from the bike, if it is a sports high-speed or mountain bike, then an eccentric clamp can be used on them, and in this case the wheel is removed without using additional keys. On entry-level bicycles, the wheel can be screwed in with two nuts, you need a couple of wrenches.
Eccentric locking rear hub.
To eliminate the backlash or, on the contrary, tighten the cone, we need a pair of keys, usually a 15 mm open-end cone wrench, and a 17 mm open-end cone wrench. First we need to loosen the locknut, then loosen or tighten the flare nut to the desired value, ideally there should be no backlash, then tighten the locknut again.
With a normally adjusted cone, the wheel should turn easily under the weight of the reflector or nipple.
There is a moment when the axle of the hub of a bicycle wheel breaks or bends, most often this is due to poor quality parts. In such cases, it is necessary to completely replace the hub axle with a new one of a higher quality. When replacing the hub axle, or when you need to do maintenance or repair the rear hub of the bicycle, for convenience, you can remove the ratchet, if you just need to tighten or loosen the cone, you can do without this action.
Curved rear wheel hub axle.
In order for breakdowns to occur less often, it is necessary to do periodic maintenance, mainly this is the adjustment of the cone as well as washing, cleaning parts and lubricating the bearings, sometimes replacing bearings, seals or washers.
THAT the back vlulka disassembly, maintenance and assembly
Repairing a bicycle rear hub can be expensive if it is rarely serviced and supervised.
For example, it happens that the bearings “eat away” in the housing of the rear bushing of the hole, possibly due to axle curvature or lack of lubrication. In this situation, the repair of the rear wheel of a bicycle consists in a complete replacement of the hub body or even the wheel itself. Therefore, to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to inspect your two-wheeled horse before each long-distance bike ride, and troubleshoot during.