How to remove the rear axle on a speed bike

Replacing the bike camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which is more often the case with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with an ordinary screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to tighten, you need to pry the sides a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

remove, rear, axle, speed, bike

Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, a bell and a lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and disassembled, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.

I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two wrenches.

Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end wrenches or box wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.

How to disassemble or reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike

Removing the wheels from the frame is part of a mandatory bicycle maintenance procedure. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of deformation of the rim, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or even the entire tire, as well as wear of the sprocket system for the rear wheel.

Experienced cyclists welcome self-repairing wheels, and it is no coincidence: it’s cheaper, and you will gain skills. You can also go to a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. over, the service is hardly located under the windows of the house, so the bike will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.

When to remove the rear wheel

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:

  • noticeable damage to the rim;
  • complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
  • a flat tire or a burst tire;
  • bulkhead bushing.

This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.

Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end wrenches or box wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.

Replacing the bike camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which is more often the case with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with an ordinary screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to tighten, you need to pry the sides a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten it very carefully so as not to damage the rim, you should not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

Attention! The camera must lie flat, without kinks, otherwise you will have to reinstall it. There must be a flipper at the bottom of the rim to protect it from the spokes. If it is torn, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of thin electrical tape.

From above, the outer part of the tire is put on the rim, this time from the side of the nipple. When installing the tire, the correct direction of the tread pattern must be taken into account. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bike, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. However, the rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.

Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing

A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already squeaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it’s time to remove it and inspect the hub.

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The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, the parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the bearings of the hub, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.

The reverse gear is removed using a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is a short-lived affair, but it will take a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:

  • The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
  • The whip holds the large star of the system so that it does not turn.
  • With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
  • We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.

Before disassembling the hub, you should slightly loosen the spoke tension. This can be done using a round key with knocked out holes for different diameters of the knitting needles. You need to loosen a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.

A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wear under dynamic loads.

Speed ​​bike rear hub diagram

The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.

Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike

A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembling, replacing, lubricating or adjusting. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.

Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.

The cassette is put on the sleeve in the following order:

  • main stars;
  • single stars, small stars;
  • tightening the cassette mechanism with a whip.

All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to twist the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!

Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are to a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.

Removing a wheel from a bike?

If you have never done something, then you may think that it is difficult to do it. If you have never removed the wheels from a bicycle before, then you may also be afraid that you will not cope, especially with the rear wheel (after all, there is a chain, a bunch of stars and this tricky derailleur!). But now we will tell you everything about this simple operation. There is nothing supernatural here. In short, we have already touched on this issue in the article on how to disassemble a bicycle, and now we will open this topic a little wider. You will have to remove the wheel not only if you need to disassemble the bike for transportation or storage, but also in order to replace the camera, tire or spokes (we will devote a separate article to what the wheels of a bicycle are made of). “.

How to remove wheels from a bicycle with rim brakes

If you have rim brakes, release them first. To do this, slide the brake levers towards each other and lift the cable lock up.

If you need to remove both wheels, release both brakes at once so that you don’t have to turn the bike over again. If you have tires with a large tread or they are large in diameter by themselves, then you will have to deflate a little air from the tubes. Now turn the bike upside down (if you have any accessories installed on your handlebars that can be damaged in this position, it is better to remove them in advance). The bike will stand stable enough for any operation, but if you have hydraulic brakes, it is better not to leave it in this position for a long time. air can get into the hydraulic line, which will entail a not very difficult, but tedious and time-consuming process of bleeding the brakes.

How to remove the rear wheel of a bike

If you will be removing the rear wheel, to make it easier to do, loosen the chain as much as possible by switching it to the smallest sprockets. The wheel can be attached to the frame and to the front fork in two ways: with two nuts (less often) and with an eccentric. If your wheels are secured with nuts that screw onto the wheel axle, then you will need two wrenches. You just throw one on one side and hold it in this position, and twist the other counterclockwise. It is not necessary to unscrew the nuts all the way; it is enough to loosen them to the extent that they do not interfere with the removal of the wheel. In the event that the wheels are fixed with an eccentric, then everything is even easier: you don’t even need tools. Pull the eccentric lever towards you, then, holding the axle on the opposite side, make a few turns counterclockwise until the wheel is free. Everything, the wheels can be removed. Yes, and the rear one too: just lift it up and remove the chain from the stars.

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How to remove wheels from a bicycle with disc brakes

If you have disc brakes, just in case, insert something into the pads, in the slot where the disc was: if they accidentally close, it is very difficult to release them. And if you don’t open it, don’t put the wheel on. The role of “something” can be, for example, a piece of paper folded several times. And sometimes new bicycles come with a special plastic plug.

The assembly is carried out upside-down. To make it easier with the rear wheel, bring it to the attachment point, put the chain over the sprocket and after that insert the axle into place. Make sure the axle fits into the groove all the way and symmetrically. Are you convinced that there are no difficulties in installing the wheels on the bike? But there is one caveat: in order for the protector to work as it should, it must be oriented in the right direction. For the convenience of orientation, an arrow is drawn on the tire. in this direction the wheel rotates when the bicycle is moving. But the fact that the bike is upside down when installing the wheels can be misleading. Therefore, take your time. This does not apply to the owners of bikes with disc brakes. it is impossible to confuse here. Don’t over-tighten the eccentric, put the brakes back in place. Everything.

Cassettes and ratchets for beginners

Bicycle cassette. rear chainring system for changing the gear ratio combined into a cassette.

The cassette is fixed to the rear wheel hub. The cassette is a consumable material, it wears out over time, which requires its periodic maintenance. replacement of the chain, individual stars or the unit as a whole.

The cassette is stars (all or individual, depending on the design) attached to a fastener that has grooves, and there are projections of the corresponding configuration (slots) on the hub body, which ensures the correct installation of the cassette. The ratchet is hidden inside the drum.

The cassette drum mechanism has several advantages:

  • stars from 8 to 12 on modern models
  • Less rolling resistance than a ratchet
  • Less weight
  • Easier to take off
  • Greater mileage

Ratchet. ratchet mechanism with a threaded or slotted mount on the hub, the ratchet is located outside.

  • The number of stars ranges from 5 to 7
  • Large load on the thin axle of the bushing due to which they bend
  • It spins with great torque, it looks like this: as the pedals rotate, the ratchet spins on the thread of the sleeve every time, more and more. Sometimes, then unscrewing the ratchet is almost impossible!

The cassette is a more complex, high-quality and functional unit than a ratchet. Should you opt for a cassette tape? Definitely yes!

How to remove / put on the ratchet?

It is impossible to remove the ratchet mechanism just like that, so we need a special tool. a puller, an adjustable wrench or a 24 or 27 millimeter wrench, depending on which model of the part is installed on your bike. To remove the cassette you will also need a cassette whip.

Insert the puller into the ratchet and pull the puller nut counterclockwise. It will take a lot of effort to loosen the slot, and exactly the same when tightening.

How to remove / put on a cassette?

Insert the cassette remover into the slotted nut.

We put a whip on the largest sprocket of the cassette.

Holding the cassette with the whip, rotate the puller with a wrench. The effort is likely to be quite decent. Unscrew the nut completely, and then remove the cassette.

On the removed cassette, you can now determine the degree of wear of the cassette.

When to shoot?

In most cases, removal is necessary when you need to carry out routine maintenance on the bike (for example, in the spring or fall). It is urgent to remove the cassette when there is a sharp slip of the pedals during the ride.

Installing a cassette looks exactly the opposite of removing:

  • Put a cassette on the drum
  • Tighten nut

Types of cassettes

All cassettes fit onto slots and are interchangeable. Let’s say an 8-cc cassette can be changed to an 11-cc cassette, having the necessary switch and shifter, without changing the rear hub. If we look at the cassettes in profile, we will see the cassettes are almost the same in width, although the number of stars is different. In order to keep the same cassette width, the distance between the stars is reduced.

  • On the pins there is a block of stars fastened by pins, and the stars are separated by spacers. Such cassettes are installed on bushings with steel drums or simply on inexpensive bicycles. The advantage will be that they can be disassembled to zero by removing the pins from the grooves, but, at the same time, they cannot be placed on light aluminum drums, since the high torsional load (especially of large stars) will damage the drum.
  • On the spider. the stars are dressed on the so-called single spider that goes in the form of a ladder.

The torsional force is transmitted not only to one star, but to the entire block of stars dressed on a spider. Thus, the load on the drum is reduced. Also, such cassettes are lighter. On a spider, you can change the last 2-3 stars. On 2 or 3 spiders. the stars are dressed on 2 separate spiders.

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This is done so that the depleted stars can be replaced individually with blocks of stars, rather than changing the entire cassette entirely. In case of wear, you can replace one of the blocks on the spider or the lower 2-3 stars separately. Depending on the cassette level.

Solid milled cassettes. the entire unit is made as one piece.

It is put on on the slots on the left side of the drum, and fixed on the lower star. The cassette is at the same time a slot for the drum. Among the analogues, this is the most expensive option. Sophisticated manufacturing process pays great price and requires a dedicated SRAM-XD drum per hub.

Bicycle hub repair

Repairing and rebuilding a bicycle hub is one of the most common requests for biking enthusiasts. After all, this is the most loaded bearing unit and it is subjected to shock loads, and bearings to friction, and the direction of the force applied to the wheels is constantly changing. over, the bearings of the bicycle hubs are subject to corrosion and dirt ingress. Axles, pawls, balls, cones and other parts are often destroyed. All these factors make the request for maintenance and repair of bicycle bushings one of the most popular, while the fact that the wheels primarily affect the driving performance make the work of our bicycle mechanics responsible.

1) Repairing the rear hub of the bike

a) Repair and overhaul of the rear hub of a high-speed bike (less than 8 speeds)

As a rule, in inexpensive bicycles there is a system where the cassette is threaded onto the rear wheel hub flange. Such bushings (tapered bearings) are the simplest and most unreliable.

A bulkhead with a lubricant change costs from 600 rubles.

But practice shows that, as a rule, such bushings need the following repairs:

Axle replacement. 600 RUB plus the cost of the axle 200-300 r.

Replacement of cones and bearings 600 rub. plus 200 r.

Attention. Please note that at 15% of calls, the destruction of the support part along which the balls move, in such cases it is necessary to replace the entire bushing as a whole (in rare cases, it is possible to press in a new support part)

b) Repair and overhaul of the rear hub of a bicycle type Shimano (8 or more speeds) with a tapered bearing

Such bushings operate on 4 bearings (2 support, 2 drum), and all of them are adjustable conical in design. The most common problems. backlash (as a rule, cones are destroyed along the way), drum backlash, drum scrolling (lack of engagement)

A bulkhead with a lubricant change costs 600 rubles.

Replacing the axle or cones 600 rub. (plus the cost of parts from 200 to 600 rubles.)

Drum bulkhead with lubricant change and backlash adjustment 1200 r.

Attention. Please note that there is always residual play in the drum. Also, it is not always possible to restore the working capacity of the drum (its engagement), sometimes it is easier and cheaper to change a part (drum or sleeve) for a new one. It is also possible to destroy the support part of the left bearing (it happens extremely rarely, as a rule, on rolled wheels)

c) repair of the rear hub with industrial support bearings.

In such bushings, support bearings. industrial drum bearings are made according to the Shimano principle. For example, such bushings include some models (in order of prevalence) SunRingle, Novatec, Choosen, Mavic, DTswiss, Fulcrum. As a rule, these are inexpensive bushings with a price of up to 3000 rubles. or used in wheels with a price of up to 10,000 r.

the price of work is 400-700 rubles, plus the cost of bearings (about 300 rubles per piece)

drum bulkhead price with lubricant change and backlash adjustment from 1500 r

d) repair of bushings on industrial bearings.

As a rule, these are expensive products. Usually in their design there are two support (less often three) bearings and two drum bearings (one may not be industrial, but for example a sleeve bearing like a Mavic)

The bulkhead of such bushings is reduced to replacing worn-out industrial bearings and replacing the lubricant in the gearing mechanism. dogs (Mavic, Fulcrum) or other solutions (DTswiss, AmericnClassic)

BMX Axle/Wheel HACKS | Remove Stuck Axles/Wheels!

e) repair and overhaul of planetary bushings.

Recently, dozens of structures have been created, which differ from each other in the principle of lubrication, the principle of assembly. disassembly and switching. As a rule, planetary structures are quite reliable and therefore their owners rarely bother themselves with preventive work.

Thus, before diagnostics and in half of the cases before disassembly, we cannot accurately determine the cost of work.

As a rule, changing the lubricant (with a complete flushing of the mechanism) solves most of the problems: fuzzy shifting, clattering, clicks, and so on. The cost of work is from 1300 r

Complex work associated with changing parts and grinding working surfaces cost from 1000 rubles

2) Repair of front bicycle hubs

a) Repair and overhaul of front Shimano type hubs with tapered bearing

In general, front hubs last significantly longer than rear hubs and require less attention. Nevertheless, a bulkhead with a lubricant change costs 600 rubles in our service.

Replacement of spare parts is rarely required, as a rule, the cone and the axle cost from 200 to 400 r

b) Repair and overhaul of front bushings on industrial bearings

How to change bicycle axle.wmv

The most reliable class of bicycle hubs. They rarely require attention and the cost of repairs is not great. from 500 r

As a rule, there are 2 bearings in the bushings that change every 3000-10000 km.