If there is a play in the front fork of the bicycle ➔ elimination, repair
Today we’ll talk about how to eliminate play in a sport bike suspension fork. This scheme is suitable for all brands of popular and not so popular bike suspension forks such as RST (OMEGA, Blaze, GILA, Capa), SUNTOUR (XCR, XCM, XCT), Rock Shox, zoom and others. Inexpensive forks are arranged, as a rule, in a similar design, so the instructions for bulkhead and elimination of backlash can be applied to almost any model. Read what bike forks are, their types and types.
How to determine if there is a backlash?
Everything is very simple, just press the front brake and move the bike back and forth, if there is any play, then you will definitely feel it. For inexpensive forks, backlash is not uncommon, it manifests itself very quickly. Minimum backlash is allowed. Over time, the backlash will increase and it is worth thinking about the bulkhead and modification of the fork.
The cause or what causes the backlash in the mountain bike front fork?
In the design of the bicycle fork, namely in the legs, a pair of rails are installed, which are made of plastic, they are called bosses. Due to their wear and tear, this phenomenon occurs.
Prevention and elimination.
For convenience, I would recommend removing the fork completely, but some do it on a bike too. Removing the fork from the bike should not be difficult for you, unscrew a couple of bolts, remove the handlebar and, if necessary, brakes or a cable.
Removing the fork legs.
We unscrew the nuts or hexagons from the bottom, with a 10 wrench, then we will see the threaded ends from which we unscrewed the nuts, in order for the legs to come off, most likely it will not be necessary to hit them hard with a hammer. In order not to knock off the thread, it is necessary to screw the nuts a little again and knock out the pants with light blows.
Now it is necessary to remove the seals that prevent dirt from entering the fork. To do this, you need a small screwdriver, pick and remove them.
Next, you need to remove those parts that directly break the fork and create a loofah. bosses or they are also called guides. The guides have latches, so we pull them out by turning them a little, to release the latch of the retainer from the groove in the pants.
Working with guides.
We pass to the most important thing. It is necessary to wrap tape or electrical tape on the guides. How many turns you need to wind depends on the wear. First, try making a couple of loops and inserting the guides into your pants. Where latches do not wrap, or cut out where necessary. If they got up tight, then maybe that’s enough. Remember how easily they were extracted from you. Having done such a manipulation with both bashings, you can estimate putting on your pants on the legs of the forks and shake them. If there is backlash again, then remove it again and add a couple more with a skein on the plastic guides and reassemble until we achieve the desired effect.
Before assembling the fork, it is imperative to clean it of old dirt and grease, rinse the oil seals (anthers) and other parts. It is also advisable to lubricate the rails, fork legs.
Interesting video on how to eliminate play on the SR Suntour XCT fork.
In principle, in such a simple way, you can eliminate the play on the bicycle fork, it will not take much time. How long such a repair will last depends on how much and on what roads you ride. Periodically, with the appearance of backlash again, you will already know how to eliminate it, at the same time you will go over the plug, which will give, though not for long, but a positive effect. It is still cheaper than buying a new fork if you are already buying a good quality high-end fork. But even with such forks, you will not bypass MOT, but the resource will be an order of magnitude higher.
How to remove pedals from a bicycle, their repair and maintenance
how to unscrew the pedals on a bike
Bicycle pedals are the part of the crankset that propels the bike. Therefore, this unit is subject to heavy load and requires special attention.
Bicycle pedals are a fairly simple mechanism, but at the same time they consist of:
- Bicycle pedal axle. is a metal pin that has a thread at the end, with which it is screwed into the connecting rod;
- Pedal platform. the surface that contacts the foot;
- Bicycle pedal bearings. provide torque along the pedal axis;
- Bolts, nuts, plugs
- Read about why the pedals on the bike spin and what to do to avoid this in this article.
- Contact bike pedals, folding pedals and other pedals can be found here.
Operation of the pedals in various weather conditions can lead to their failure, pedal axis backlash, crackling, crunching, knocking directly on the bicycle pedals can occur. All these problems are not difficult to fix. Therefore, if you notice that your pedals squeak on your bike, then in order to make the pedal more flexible, you will need to unscrew and remove it from the bike.
Today we will look at how to disassemble a regular pedal and clipless pedals.
How to disassemble pedals on a bicycle
First, let’s look at the simplest pedal problems (crackling, crunching) that can occur:
Pedal repair. We tighten the lock nut
- It is necessary to check for any damage to the pedal (cracks, chips, etc.);
- Check the attachment point of the pedal axle to the connecting rods, over time it may weaken or moisture and sand may get into the connection. For prophylaxis, you can unscrew, carefully wipe the axle thread and the connecting rod itself, lubricate with thick grease and tighten again;
- We check the pedal for backlash. To do this, we hold the pedal axis and try to move the platform in different directions with our hands. If there is a backlash, then this is corrected by tightening the lock nut, which is located under the plug (see figure)
- If the pedal is spinning tightly or play, it is advisable to completely bust the bicycle pedal. It won’t take you a lot of time. Let’s get started:
Only an adjustable wrench is required to remove the pedals from the bicycle crank.
The pedal axis usually has several edges, which allows you to unscrew it without much effort.
Everything, the pedal is completely disassembled.
How to lubricate pedals on a bicycle
After the performed manipulations, all parts must be thoroughly wiped with a clean cloth. To facilitate the task, you can put all the pedal units in kerosene, then wipe them. This will maximize the cleaning of old grease, sand and other things. Be sure to check the condition of the balls so that they are all the same shape and size.
Then grease all parts with heavy grease, it is recommended to grease with waterproof grease and then reassemble the pedal in reverse order. Do not forget to wipe the axle thread cleanly and lubricate it with grease before installing the pedal, which will allow you to smoothly put the pedal in place. And next time the pedals will unscrew easily.
How to disassemble a bicycle pedal if you have clipless pedals
- Also learn about correct pedaling technique, which may help you avoid many pedal problems.
Clip-on pedals are more complex and rotate tighter. Let’s take an example of servicing the most common and cheapest contacts. Shimano PD-M520. If you do not have any problems with the pedals, then it is better not to disassemble them again, so as not to amass unnecessary problems. They do not require frequent maintenance.
They are removed from the connecting rods in the same way as conventional pedals. using a key. To remove the axle, you will need a special tool. a Shimano TL-PD40 crank puller, keys for 7, 10 and 15. For the older Shimano PD-M540 model, such a puller is not required.
Let’s get started:
To unscrew the bicycle pedal, you need a special puller
- We put the connecting rod puller on the pedal in the place indicated by the arrow and unscrew it. After that, we easily remove the axle from the pedal body.
- Holding the axle with a wrench or holding it in a vice, unscrew the lock nut that holds the entire axial structure. Then we take out all the nodes in order, but be careful, as there are balls inside. There should be 12 of them on each side.
The pedal is completely disassembled. Here we do everything the same way, carefully wipe off the old grease from all pedal assemblies and grease it with waterproof grease. Putting it up in the reverse order. The balls must be laid out one at a time on their seat, having previously lubricated with a thick layer of grease. It is important to tighten the nuts well at the same time so that the pedal rotates smoothly and without backlash. After the performed manipulations, remove all excess grease that may be released after tightening the pedal. The Shimano PD-M520 pedal diagram is shown below for an overview of the component parts.
General diagram of bicycle pedal disassembly
- If you want to know more about a bicycle bottom bracket, read here.
- Lots of useful information about bike tools.
- In addition, you may be interested in how to remove the carriage from the bike, how to disassemble and repair the carriage. About this at this link //velosipedinfo.ru/kak-snyat-karetku-s-velosiped.
Watch another video on how to install the pedals on your bike correctly
Removing the kickstand from a bike. Removing the kickstand from a bike
Footrest. lot of “suckers” or a useful accessory?
From time immemorial, the generally friendly biker community has periodically split into warring camps. Shimanophiles sharpen their teeth at Shimanophiles, two-hangers go to war against hardtail people, knights of the Order of Toothed Tires cross swords with adherents of the bald half-slick sect.
But there is one bicycle accessory, the unfortunate owners of which are unanimously stigmatized by almost all “advanced” bikers. The name of this outcast is a bicycle footboard.
Of course, a kickstand mounted on a carbon cross country car will make people around you laugh. For rides with a small backpack behind your shoulders, the use of a footboard is also hardly advisable. putting the “empty” bike on the ground and then lifting it is not difficult. However, there are still bikers who need a footrest. These are the cyclists.
Let me explain with examples from my own experience how the unforgettable Baron Karl Friedrich Jerome von Munchausen bequeathed to always do in such cases. Introductory: a bicycle without a footboard, a backpack-“pants” weighing 30 kg hangs on the trunk:
Middle Karelia. You stop to take a photo of a crocodile eating a Kodiak bear. Along the road there are ditches of one meter depth, in one of which eating takes place. There is nothing to lean your bike against, and you place it on the ground, providing the rack with a side load that it is not designed to handle. After five days of periodic “slaughter” of the bike with a backpack on one side (nowadays there are many crocodiles in Karelia), the trunk gets loose. Sometimes breaks.
Sayan. You stop to take a picture of a peacock sitting on a palm branch. There is a steppe along the road. There is nothing to lean your bike against, but you have already broken the trunk, so you know that once again putting the bike on its side is useless. You support the bike with your hip and take out the Canon Eos 5 D camera from the photobox on the handlebars. Naturally, with both hands. At this point, the front wheel turns and the bike begins to move towards Mother Earth. You are trying to catch him, but, apparently, not destiny. The bike crashes into the road with a crash. The camera that you released while grabbing the bike falls behind him. The peacock flies away laughing and hooting.
Foothills of the Greater Caucasus. You stop to take a photo of an Arctic fox fighting a sea turtle. Trees grow along the road, which runs, as usual, over the gorge, and you, remembering the events described in pp. 1 and 2, lean your bike against one of them. The moment you are ready to press the camera shutter button, the front wheel turns (well, this is typical for bicycles, what can you do), and the bike begins to move towards Mother Earth. It moves long enough, because it is 200 meters to the bottom of the gorge. You, along with a polar fox and a turtle, are fascinated by the flight.
As you understand, in addition to photographing, a traveling biker has other reasons for stopping. to orientate himself on the map, to add strength by eating something high in calories, to reduce the load on the iron horse by completing the process opposite to the absorption of food, etc.
However, there are still devices that can securely hold the bike.
Keeping in mind that the higher the sidestand is attached to the bike, and the further away from it it rests on the ground, the more difficult it is to knock the bike down, Tom Nostrant of Aberdeen, Washington, USA, designed, patented and began to produce a long folding. no, not even not a footrest. a bicycle stand, which I called “Click. Stand”. It is really versatile, you can’t argue, as simple as a stick (since it is a folding stick with a flyer at the end) and weighs only about 75 g. It’s bad that it is not attached to a bicycle, that is, it must be taken out from somewhere, laid out and supported bike on it (I would slightly improve the design by making a collar around the upper frame tube instead of a flyer).
On the website www.click-stand.com this stand costs from 25 to 32 depending on the length, but something tells me that our compatriot is unlikely to become a client of Mr. Nostrant. After all, any rigid demountable arch from the tent will cope with the task of maintaining the bike no worse than the branded Click. Stand. and to attach a flyer to it. what to spit once. Just remember that without rubber bands holding the brake levers in the pressed position, your bike will not stand upright for a minute.
But there is also another solution. These are “two-legged”, symmetrical about the axis of the bicycle, footpegs, the older sisters of which have been used on motorcycles for a century. The results of the “cycling” test of such a footboard, I suggest you.
Manufacturer. BILTEMA. article in the corporate catalog 27-046
Weight. 640 g, which is a lot. By drilling holes and replacing the steel mounting bolt with a titanium one, you can most likely lose about 100-150 g of mass. You need it?
Material. aluminum alloy, casting.
Fastening in a small triangle of the connection of the chainstays with the carriage tube, one M8 bolt with a conical countersunk head for a 6 mm hexagon. A toothed washer is installed under the bolt. time will show whether it will unscrew with a strong shaking (see below). The length of the bolt is 6 cm, which is sufficient even for thick profiled feathers. But it is very inconvenient to install a footrest on a bicycle with a front derailleur of the “top swing” type (with a lower clamp). there is not enough space for a key. If not for the hexagon with a spherical tip, the switch would have to be removed.
When installing, you can put neoprene protection on the right “leg” of the footrest (it is optimal to use the standard protection of the bicycle feather). the gap between the lower branch of the chain and the leg is 1-2 cm, the chain will mercilessly beat the footrest while driving. Of course, this is unlikely to affect the performance of the latter; I assumed that the pretty matte black finish might be badly damaged, but nothing like that happened.
Mud clearance for tires up to 2.0 ″ wide is quite sufficient, and it is unlikely that anyone would think of putting a footboard on a bike with wide freeride tires.
In theory, dirt or snow can cram into the hollow mounting bracket, but this has not been achieved in practice.
As I already wrote, one of the common reasons for a bicycle to fall off the pedestal is the turn of the front wheel, which occurs under the influence of some otherworldly forces at the moment when you leave the bike and, naturally, do not have time to support it. But when the bike is on a two-legged footboard, the wheel can at least twist. the bike will remain motionless, because the front wheel is hanging in the air!
In the course of the test, another option for using the footrest arose. It replaces the repair stand! Well, not 100%, of course, but it allows:
Once you’ve secured the kickstand to your bike, check straight away to see if it stands upright on it. The copy I got was slightly skewed. For a light bike, such a skew is nonsense, but when a heavy backpack hangs on the bike, shifting the center of gravity up. I got out of position by slightly cutting the rubber stop on the longer leg of the footrest.
Since we are talking about the center of gravity, it means that the time has come to talk about how firmly the pedal horse stands on its feet (footboards, of course), loaded with a heavy and high backpack of the “pants” type. First, about a heavy backpack, in which the weight is distributed correctly, that is, everything heavy (canned food, gas cylinders, irons, dumbbells, etc.) is folded to the very bottom, and everything light and light lies on top. This approach should only increase the stability of the bike on the footboard; practice has shown that this is how it is.
But a backpack with a high center of gravity reduces stability, which, you see, is also logical (Biker! Pack your things correctly!). And further. A chubby backpack (and I went, including with a rather big “Mirage-80K”) greatly increases the windage. The conclusion sounds ridiculous, but in practice it helps: put the bike upwind, or upwind, do not expose the sides to evil trade winds and monsoons.
For the sake of scientific interest, I decided to find out how much effort must be made to knock down a bicycle that is standing on the footboard. We take the electronic balance wheel and, using it as a dynamometer, we pull the bike sideways by the uppermost point. the saddle. He finally began to fall. Let’s see what the steelyard shows. It turned out a little more than 1 kgf. Not bad.
If you are not going to remove the kickstand in the foreseeable future, tighten the mounting bolt “with all the stupidity.” If you have to remove the switch for this, remove it (at the same time you will practice in setting it up). And place the bolt on the thread lock. For even with a toothed washer (see above), the footrest still looses after a couple of weeks of field use.
And here is the main practical result: in two months of riding, the bike fell while standing on the footrest. Yes, that really there, fell, it was. But! Just one time. It happened when I hastily put the bike on the loose side of a dirt (albeit Finnish) road. Since I have put it on the footrest a hundred times before, we can safely say that the BIKE STANDS STABLE.
At first, I decided that I would remove the footboard after a three day test hike. Then he postponed the dismantling for a couple of weeks. Then. In general, in the end, I admitted to myself that I do not want to shoot it. Generally. Let them call me a sucker, let this device weigh a pound. I am already so used to being able to put my bike where I want, and not where there is something to lean it against, that it seems that the two-legged footboard “stuck” to my hiking bike forever.
The footrest was kindly provided for the test by Oleg Fedorov (VeloPiter club), for which many thanks to him!
When reprinting, a reference to the original source is required.
Bicycle footrest, what is this item, is it really necessary? This article explains in detail the types of footboards, as well as the materials from which they are made, the advantages and disadvantages of the attribute. You can also find out about the footrest attachment points, cases in which a bicycle support is needed like air, or when you can perfectly do without it.
Of course, each owner decides for himself whether to purchase such an accessory or not. Why does the choice depend? First of all, on the type of bike, because there are different models on the market, for example, walking, mountain or hybrid bikes. Then it is worth evaluating the mode of its use. For example, for a road bike, which is designed exclusively for fast movement on very smooth asphalt, a bicycle pedestal is not needed, it will even add unnecessary grams of weight and thereby affect speed. Or, for example, why such an accessory for a children’s bike?
A variety of accessories are on sale, which differ among themselves by the material of manufacture, the type of support and the method of fastening.
Stands for supporting a bicycle in an upright state are made of steel or aluminum. The steel footrest is highly reliable and durable, while the aluminum footrest is lighter in weight.
According to the number of supporting “legs”, the footboards are divided into one-legged and two-legged. When the rack of one bike is at an angle to the ground, in the case of two points of support, it can be installed almost vertically. Thus it is possible to achieve the fact that the front wheel will even be raised, as if “hanging” in the air. This will prevent the front wheels from spinning. The two-legged support adds stability to it, it looks like a motorcycle footpegs.
Depending on the design of the bike, the footrest can be mounted either on the side or in the center.
The footpegs produced are, as a rule, universal, they can be adjusted to any wheel size, since the design has a telescopic extension mechanism. If the owner wants to always install his “iron horse” strictly vertically, then he gets a long step with attachment to the frame.
What situations a cyclist can safely avoid, having in his arsenal such an extremely useful “little thing” as a stand:
- When parking, it becomes possible to avoid the bike falling when the front wheel is turned sharply.
- Deformation of the trunk from falling is prevented, accordingly, it will be great for longer serving the owner.
- When a bike falls to the ground, especially a heavily loaded one, it often gets very dirty in dust, mud, and the owner spends time cleaning, while the stand will help to avoid such situations.
- Saves a lot of what used to be spent looking for a bike support in case of a stop.
What inconvenience can you expect?
During the movement, dirt will collect on such an accessory, so it must be cleaned regularly. She adds, albeit small, but still weight, the structure becomes heavier, it becomes more difficult to develop speed. If it is not properly secured, it may rattle when driving and distract attention from the road.
A footrest is not purchased if they clearly know the places where you can lean your bike on the route.
The footrest of this bike attribute is not only a fashionable accessory, it is also functional, comfortable, brings comfort to the owner, makes the bike stylish and modern.
Wheels, handlebars, pedals and a saddle attached to the frame. this is how a bicycle is depicted on diagrams or signs, for example, bicycle parking. In fact, a bike, even the simplest, is equipped with various attributes, both necessary and not so. These include all devices, from the trunk with fenders to the bell, rear-view mirror and parking stand.
The footrest is a special accessory for the bicycle that gives it a stable position when stationary. There is often debate among cyclists about the usefulness of this device: some simply cannot live without a footboard, but others absolutely do not need it. over, they even take it off the bike they just bought. And if you look at it from an objective point of view? How much this accessory justifies itself, we will consider further.
Bicycle stand: where you need it, and where not
The expediency of using a footboard is determined based on the conditions of movement. The main areas of use of the two-wheeled horse:
- Relaxing rides in parks, sidewalks and paths.
- Driving on city roads.
- Moving on the highway.
- Cycling: city and cross country cycling (hills, forest roads).
- Cycling in various directions.
For representatives of the first group, a bicycle footboard will serve as an excellent attribute for beauty. Indeed, with simple measured trips around courtyards, parks or playgrounds, there is no particular point in putting a great. As a last resort, you can hold it behind the wheel or lean against something (a tree or a post, for example). Although, if there is a stand, you can sometimes use it and not remove it from the bike: it does not ask for food, and its absence is not important.
The next group is cyclists who ride around the city on “city bikes”. road bicycles with one or more gears or with an installed planetary gear system. As a rule, the footrest is installed on them by the manufacturer.
Moving on to the highways. Anyone who has tried to lift a road bike has always wondered how light it is. Almost complete absence of accessories: there is no bulky trunk, shields, mirrors and bells. There will be no footrest here either. What’s the matter? At high speeds, the weight of the bike is very important: the lower it is, the easier it is for the cyclist to accelerate on asphalt and coast. But how much does this stand weigh? Hardly more than a pound, right? Yes, it is absolutely correct, however, every gram is of fundamental importance to highways, because when driving, its effect on speed increases significantly!
What if you need to park? There are two options: put the bike on the ground and close the rear wheel with an anti-theft cord, or tie the bike frame to a post, pipe, tree, or, if there is a bike parking, drop the bike on it.
Cycling is a popular hobby among lovers of two-wheeled vehicles. Perhaps the importance of a bicycle peg in this area can hardly be overestimated. Driving on rough terrain is associated with constant obstacles: the roads are uneven and surrounded by dense grass, ravines, steep slopes. If the bike is put on the track itself when stopping, it may interfere with other cyclists or cars. The kickstand will help position the bike off the side of the road, and even if it gets in the way, it’s very easy to move.
The stand allows bike travelers to position the bike evenly when the trunk is heavily loaded and serves as a support around which the weight of the entire load is distributed. It is only important to find a hard surface, especially if the heel area is small.
Among biker travelers, most of the bike stands on a stand whenever you need to get off it to rest, have a snack, take pictures of the area or inspect for malfunctions.
Do you need a kickstand on a sports bike? In principle, if it stands idle for a long time, then yes. But in the process of cycling competitions she is simply removed from the bikes: she is unnecessarily. For example, why should she be during extreme descents from the mountain (downhill), when the cyclist simply will not stop and, even more so, set the bike. The same goes for bicycles used in BMX: “dancing on two wheels”, tricks on a dirt track, vert, street.
Varieties of footboards
The classification of devices is outrageously simple: distinguish between “carriage”, “rear-wheel”, “two-legged” footboards and stands under the frame.
City bikes designed for city and flat terrain are already equipped with the first type of footpegs. They are located in the area of the carriage mechanism and keep the bike in an inclined position. As a rule, the heel of such footpegs is small, which does not allow the bike to stand in the sand or on scattered small stones. Such stands do not withstand a large load, especially on the trunk, but they perfectly allow you to balance a bike, if you hang a bag or backpack on the steering wheel from the opposite (mainly right) side.
Sometimes on road bikes you can see stands attached to the drive wheel. They are also present on mountain bikes. With this support, you can load the rack: all the weight falls on the rear wheel, and the rest of the bike resists the fall. This option is good for tourists: in addition to the knapsack on the trunk, you can also hang the backpack on the steering wheel on the other side, and load the middle part of the frame from it.
The “rear” supports are not always attached to the wheel axle. They can also be placed on the pen and the distance from the rear wheel can be adjusted.
The “bipedal” symmetrical supplies are very similar to their motorcycle counterparts. They resemble flyers in shape. A bike with this kickstand stands with a slightly raised front wheel. The weight of the bike and the load on it is evenly distributed between the stand and the rear wheel. Distinctive features are the level position of the standing bike and the large area of the stubborn heels. Disadvantages: rather large weight, about 600 grams. However, with a 20-kilogram backpack, this weighting will not be too noticeable.
And finally, let’s get acquainted with the so-called long footrest, or stands under the frame. In shape, it is a tight long pin with flyers along the edges: one for securing the frame, the other with stops for installation on the ground. Also an excellent option for travelers, but absolutely pointless when used on city bikes.
The bike stands level, and the weight and load on it are evenly distributed between the front and rear of the bike, thanks to the connection of the middle of the frame to the road surface. Better to use on hard surfaces, in sands the stand can get stuck and lose stability.
Nevertheless, with a few exceptions, a bicycle footboard is a useful attribute that will not interfere with it on the road and will help to place a two-wheeled horse, and not dismissively put it on the ground or lean against something. However, how to handle the bike. to put it on, lay it down or lean against it. is a matter of habit, the main thing is that it does not cause any inconvenience.
How to remove and replace pedals on a bicycle
A situation has arisen that it is necessary to unscrew the pedals from the bike, but you do not know how to do it correctly. Let’s see how to perform this operation quickly and easily.
When you may need to remove bike pedals
- For maintenance. For example, a crunch or creak appeared and you need to clean and lubricate them.
- When replacing old pedals with new ones, or replacing connecting rods.
- When packing the bike into a cover or to reduce the space occupied when transporting it.
- When preparing your bike for long-term winter storage. Again to minimize bike space
- As an anti-theft agent. The method is very effective. well, where will you go on such a bike. The trick here is that they should be removed easily and simply. The tool for this and the small bag in which the removed pedals will be folded should always be with you in your bike bag. You won’t wear them all the time in your hands.
The peculiarity of the pedals is that they have symmetrical threads.
Each of them must have a label: which is left and which is right. Usually these are the English letters L. Left (left) and R. Right (right), respectively, for the left and right pedal.
The left pedal is always made with a left hand thread. This means that it twists counterclockwise and unscrews clockwise.
On the right, there is a regular right-hand thread. Spins clockwise and unscrews counterclockwise.
This is done so that when the pedals are spinning while the bike is moving, they do not unscrew.
It is easier to remember the rule: the pedals are unscrewed against the direction of the bicycle’s movement. twist to the rear wheel, and twist in the direction of travel. twist to the front wheel.
What tool are pedals removed
- Open-end wrench 15 mm
- Various universal bicycle wrenches that have a 15mm wrench.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Some models are removable and reattached with 6/8/10 mm hex keys
- There are special pedal wrenches that combine 15 open-end wrenches and hex wrenches in one tool.
When using an adjustable wrench, be sure to pay attention to its thickness. The fact is that the distance between the pedal mount and the connecting rod is not large, and not every adjustable wrench will fit there. Some types of wrenches come with thin jaws that can be used. Open-end or special pedal keys are great for this operation.
How to remove the pedals
- This is best done with the bike on wheels. Why? The fact is that sometimes it takes quite a lot of effort to unscrew it and you have to use the whole body weight. It is easier to do this while the bike is on its wheels than when it is hanging on a rack.
- Remove the right pedal. To do this, it is best to put the right crank at the 3 o’clock position: the crank is horizontal to the ground and turned towards the front wheel. Taking into account that the right pedal has a normal thread, we unscrew it like a normal thread. counterclockwise.
- Then remove the left pedal. We put the left crank in the 9 o’clock position. It is again horizontal to the ground and turned towards the front wheel. Remember that there is a left-hand thread on the left pedal and unscrew it clockwise.
If the thread on the axle “stuck” to the connecting rod and is not removed
- You can apply WD-40 to the junction for 10-15 minutes and try to unscrew it again.
- If there is no WD-40, you can use other means (analogs of WD-40) or, for example, kerosene (you need to wait 2-3 hours already).
- If after that it is difficult to unscrew. try increasing the length of the lever. Just take a longer key or put a metal tube on it to increase the shoulder (Archimedes’ law has not yet been canceled).
- Some cyclists offer another way. At the junction of the axle and the connecting rod, water is gradually poured from a boiled kettle, forcing the metal to warm up a little and, because of this, reduce the seat density. Personally, I have not tried this option and it seems to me that the boiling water temperature of 90-100 degrees will not heat up the connecting rod very much, although it will be washed out for sure.
It is more logical to try to warm up this place with a construction hairdryer or a powerful soldering iron. When working with a hair dryer, heat exactly the junction of the axle and the connecting rod and monitor the temperature of the pedal body, especially if it is plastic.
It is definitely not worth heating this place with an open fire.
How to put a pedal on a bike.
I would like to immediately highlight one question that sometimes arises from some cyclists. It is connected with the compatibility of the threads on the pedals and connecting rods and different standards adopted in modern bicycle construction and in Soviet times. The fact is that the threads on modern pedals do not fit the threads cut in Soviet connecting rods. This issue is discussed in more detail in the article “Thread compatibility on bicycle pedals and cranks”.
If you are all right with this question, consider how to put the pedal in the connecting rod.
- Check the threads for grease before installing the pedal. If not, it is better to apply a layer of lubricant to the threads. So you protect it from corrosion, from “sticking” to the connecting rod and make your life easier in the future. it will be easier to remove later. You can use lithol, grease and other waterproof lubricants.
By the way, before starting the installation process, it would be very good to clean from old grease and dirt with a degreaser not only the thread on the pedal axis, but also the thread in the connecting rods.
Degreaser (degreaser) is a special degreasing composition designed to remove dirt, grease, oil.
Another little tip.
How to check the pedal
It is advisable to check the condition of the pedals, their tightness, the absence of backlash and the condition of the case before each trip. You can just stand with your foot on it, and then, twisting, watch and listen to how it rotates on the axis. If there is no visual beating and unnecessary sounds. everything is fine, you can go.
Remember, if the pedal twists out, breaks or is lost while driving, you are unlikely to be able to go somewhere, and the risk of injury is quite high.
You can read more about pedals in the article
Bicycle footpegs: types and tips for choosing
In our time, the variety of bicycles is as great as the variety of different attributes to them. In this article, we’ll take a closer look at the topic of bicycle footpegs. This small, unobtrusive detail is a very convenient addition to the bike. We will also consider bicycle footpegs for 16, 26, 29 inches wheels and review the brands Cube, Merida and others.
What is it for?
A footrest is a part of a bicycle that provides a stable position of the vehicle when it is stationary. Public opinion in the usefulness of this accessory is fundamentally different: some of the footrest is necessary for cycling in the same way as wheels, others consider it very uncomfortable and remove it from a new bike as soon as possible.
A footboard is necessary under certain conditions in which the ride is carried out. Most often, a bicycle is used for:
- trips to parks, bike zones, courtyards, paths and sidewalks;
- movement on highways and city roads;
- cycling tourism (around the city, hills, forest roads);
There are a number of cases where a bike stand is not needed. For example, it is not needed at all for a tricycle.
For those who cannot imagine cycling without a footrest, it is often needed as an additional accessory. Indeed, during measured walks through the zones of parks, stadiums or playgrounds, it makes no sense to use a footboard: you can hold the bike yourself or lean it against a tree or a bench, for example. In such cases, the kickstand does not play an important role, but it is not necessary to remove it.
Another group of people are cyclists on city bikes. They use special road bikes with either one or multiple gears or an integrated planetary gear system. For these bicycles, the footrest is installed by the manufacturer.
It is simply impossible to lean it against something and put it steadily, so a footrest will be very useful here.
Highways. This is a group of cyclists who ride the lightest bikes. The complete absence of all accessories, including footpegs, bells, mirrors, trunks, is essential for speed development. The weight indicator plays an important role during acceleration and further coasting on asphalt. Considering that the stand is not at all heavy, the question arises why not leave it. However, every road driver knows that when driving, the influence of each gram increases several times.
One of the popular hobbies among owners of a two-wheeled horse is cycling. Riding is over rough terrain and involves many obstacles such as uneven roads, thick grass, bushes, ravines and steep slopes. If a bike without a stand is to be placed on the ground, it will create an obstacle for other cyclists. In this case, it will be much more difficult to move it in a lying position, it may be difficult to choose a place where to put the bike.
When the luggage rack is heavily loaded, the stand allows you to put the bike in a stable position. However, pay attention to the surface where to put the heel of the footrest. It must be firm so that the bike does not rock.
A stand is required for a touring bike. Loaded with everything you need, it will be easy to stably place it if you need to stop, have a snack, rest or take photos of the area.
Cycling people do not really need a footrest. It must be removed during competitions, as well as when riding in the mountains or participating in “dancing on two wheels”, performing tricks.
How to remove rust from a bike?
A bicycle is a means of transportation that makes travel more comfortable and faster. At the same time, this unit needs constant care, and if mishandled, it can create a number of problems. Before the start of each season, you need to carefully inspect your bike, because sooner or later, rust may appear on the handlebars, frame or other metal element. How to eliminate it at home? This is what we will talk about in this article.
Rust: concept and causes
Rust is a special tinge of reddish-orange color that appears on metal surfaces. The plaque contains a mixture of iron oxides and hydroxides (corrosion products). Rust appears from direct metal contact with water or air. Based on this, the reason for the appearance of rust on a bicycle can be:
- Storing the vehicle in a damp place.
- Damage to the upper protective coating (chromium or nickel, which protects the metal from corrosion).
- The bike is not properly cleaned after washing or rain.
What rusts first?
If you forget about the bike and leave it on the balcony, then in 1-2 years it will be covered with rust. However, if you carefully inspect the unit, you can make sure that corrosion has appeared on only some parts. For example, the frame will not be damaged, as it is painted with a special paint that includes an anti-corrosion agent.
Parts that rust in the first place:
- Metal parts of the pedals.
- Spokes and iron parts of wheels.
- The steering wheel and its unpainted column.
As you know, the best way to solve a problem is to prevent it. Rust on metal is no exception, because corrosive processes can be avoided or at least delayed as much as possible. To do this, you need to follow preventive measures, namely:
- Wipe dry all parts of the bike after washing or riding in the rain.
- Store the vehicle in a cover or dry place.
- Lubricate moving parts with machine oil.
- Repainting the frame periodically.
- Watch out for nickel and chrome plating.
What methods of removing rust can you use?
If, despite all the efforts and courting, a red bloom has appeared, then you need to deal with its elimination. First of all, you need to assess the scale of work and the criticality of corrosion processes, after which a way to solve the problem is selected. You can remove rust using one of the following methods:
- With the help of folk remedies.
Equipment that will be needed for the procedures:
- Metal scraper (brush).
- Solid oil and diesel fuel.
- Napkins and towels.
- Cotton pads.
- Mineral oil.
Mechanical removal of rust
If there are few red spots, then you can deal with them in 20-30 minutes. For this you need:
- Treat damaged areas with a metal scraper.
- Lubricate the surface with mineral oil.
- Wait 15-20 minutes.
- Remove oil with a scraper.
- Wipe dry with paper towel.
- Apply the product with a cotton swab to damaged areas.
- Wait 10 minutes.
- Wipe off substance with paper towels.
Cleaning the bike chain
This part of the bike must not be painted or cleaned with a wire brush as it will quickly deteriorate. To remove rust from a bicycle chain, proceed as follows:
- Remove the chain and place it in a metal container.
- Pour diesel fuel and put the pan on fire.
- Bring to a boil and ignite the contents.
- Remove from heat and pour onto a stone surface.
- Wait for the chain to cool down.
- Shake the chain to crumble the rust.
- Lubricate with grease and install back.
Important! The procedure should be carried out outdoors using a fire. It is important to follow fire safety rules, as careless handling of fire can result in disastrous consequences.
Traditional methods of dealing with rust
If the traces of the reddish plaque are still quite fresh, then they can be eliminated with the means at hand, described below. Potatoes are ideal for removing rust from bicycles, knives and other small metal items. For cleaning you need:
- Cut raw potatoes in half.
- Sprinkle salt on the cut.
- Treat the damaged area.
You can also use ketchup or tomato sauce to remove rust from your bike:
- Lubricate rusty parts.
- Wait 5-7 minutes.
- Remove residual substance.
Organic or inorganic acids can be used to remove rust from the surface of the bicycle, however, inorganic substances interact with the metal, having a negative effect on it. It is undesirable to use nitric acid, but weak solutions of hydrochloric and sulfuric acid are applicable, but when working with them you need to use self-protection means (respirator, goggles and gloves).
The best way to deal with rust is with orthophosphate acid, which creates a protective film that protects the metal from corrosive processes. To eliminate red marks, you need to prepare:
- Paper towels and cotton pads.
- Baking soda.
- Scrub the surface.
- Degrease the surface with a soda solution.
- Rinse with water.
- Wipe rusty areas with a swab soaked in acid.
- Neutralize acid with soda.
- Wash off substance with water.
- Wipe dry.
Use of organic acids
In this case, acetic or citric acid will help us. To do this, you need to prepare:
- Lemon juice.
- Machine oil.
- Scraper or brush.
- Rags, paper towels and abrasives.
- Mix equal parts vinegar and lemon juice.
- Make a soda solution.
- Sand the surface and apply acid to it.
- Sand damaged areas.
- Soak a rag in a soda solution and treat the places soaked with acid.
- Wash your bike thoroughly.
- Wipe dry.
In order to prevent further spread of rust you need:
- Paint the frame.
- Nickel plated or chrome plated unpainted parts.
- Parts that cannot be chrome-plated or painted (e.g. chain) should be lubricated with machine oil.