Amateur Cyclist Blog
Articles on the maintenance, adjustment, selection and repair of bicycles. Cycling. Tuning, tuning and much more.
Front wheel hub: disassembling the front hub on a bicycle.
When lubricating or replacing an axle or bearings, we will need to disassemble the front wheel hub.
First of all, when disassembling, it is necessary to take into account the presence of bearings in the bushing that can fall out.
Therefore, I recommend placing a clean rag or paper under the wheel, or whatever is more convenient. On modern bicycles, the front wheel is secured with an eccentric clip. If you have such a clamp, then completely unscrew the nut (wing), then remove the spring and pull out the stem. Naturally, before this you need to remove the wheel.
The second step will be to disassemble the hub on the left side of the wheel. If there is a rubber boot, remove it, then we will see a locknut and a cone on the outer sleeve.
Next, we need a cone wrench (12-14) and a regular open-end wrench (14-17). Holding the cone with a wrench, unscrew the lock nut, then remove it and the washer, if there is one.
After that, it is necessary to unscrew the cone itself and carefully remove the bushing axis from the right side. Why should it be done slowly, but because there is a possibility of bearings falling out of the sleeve. Therefore, it is necessary to spread something under the wheel so as not to lose them. There is no need to unscrew the right cone.
Now we are faced with the task of inspecting the front hub and its components. It is necessary to assess the wear of the hub axle, as well as its bearings. The bearings can be pulled out of the bushing with tweezers, but if there is none under the hand, then this can be done by gently prying them with a screwdriver and pulling them out with your fingers.
What does the front hub of a bicycle consist of?
- nut (wing)
- eccentric axis
- hub axle
- front hub housing
The front hub of a bicycle, like all its other components, needs periodic lubrication. While the bushing is disassembled, it is necessary to remove the remnants of the old grease, wipe it inside with a clean rag, and also clean the bearings. For flushing and cleaning parts, you can use kerosene or gasoline.
After wiping and lubricating with grease (lithol, grease) all the parts of the front bushing must be assembled in the reverse order.
When do you need to remove a bicycle wheel?
Removing wheels may be required if you have such problems.
- Significant damage to the rim;
- Tube damage, tire rupture;
- Knitting and balancing;
- Bulkhead bushing;
- Replacing the bike chain, rear sprockets.
For tools, a suitable size open-end wrench or a ring spanner is sufficient. It is undesirable to use an adjustable wrench, since it licks off the corners of the nuts, due to insufficient snug fit.
No additional tools are needed to deal with the eccentric fastening.
Features of high-speed bike hub service
The bushing is a part that needs periodic maintenance. The frequency of maintenance is every 2 thousand km of run. This corresponds to about 2-3 months of active use of the bike. If a creak appears, the bike starts to ride worse, then the problem is most likely in the hub. It needs to be removed and inspected.
The main causes of bushing problems are poor bearing lubrication and backlash. Increased friction or misalignment results in wear on the part very quickly. To gain access to the sleeve, remove the cassette using a puller.
- Insert the puller into the cassette nut;
- Using a wrench, rotate the puller. The ultimate goal is to unscrew the spline nut;
- Remove the small stars, set them aside;
- Remove cassette.
Before you start disassembling the bushing, loosen the tension on the spokes with a wrench (you need a wrench with knocked out holes). Loosen the knitting needles орота turn enough. The bushing has to be replaced if the bearings, together with the axle, are completely worn out. If this is not the case, the lubricant is sufficient. Soak the removed parts in solvent and then lubricate. It is better not to adjust the skewed bearings, but to replace them, since in this state they are definitely faulty.
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How to remove the front wheel of a bicycle
The procedure here depends on the type of brakes used on your bike. If the brakes are disc type, then nothing can be removed. The rim brakes must first be released in order to be able to continue dismantling without hindrance. To make it easier to release the brakes, pull out the arch connecting the pads. Further, to remove the front wheel, proceed as follows:
- Turn the bike upside down. Do this carefully so that it fits over the seat and steering wheel. There are many fragile devices on the steering wheel that can be easily damaged. This is a bell, headlights, accelerometers. Place a soft cloth under the derailleur of your bike to avoid scratching the part. If you are using a hydraulic system with brake fluid, do not keep the bike upside-down for long periods of time. This is fraught with air entering the tubes and subsequent bleeding of the brakes. This work cannot be called too laborious, but it will require additional time expenditures;
- Remove the wheel. If it is secured with a nut, then unscrew it until the hub axle comes out of the mount freely. The eccentric fastening does not require any additional tools and devices for dismantling. Eccentric bindings are often found on sport and mountain bikes;
- Finish dismantling.
Important! Do not use hydraulic disc brakes without a rotor between the pads as they can compress and jam. That will complicate the process of re-installation, up to the possible need to bleed the brakes. Therefore, take care of some kind of temporary spacer between the pads in advance.
How to remove the rear wheel yourself
Removing a large rear wheel is no more difficult than removing a front wheel. To make the dismantling process easier, remove the chain from the axle and spread the brakes.
Reverse mounting follows the same principle as with the front. However, when installing the chain, make sure it is correctly positioned on the sprocket. Therefore, first you need to put on the chain, and then mount the wheel on the mount.
How to reinstall the front wheel of a bicycle
Here, the same actions appear as in the case of withdrawal, only the order of actions is reversed.
- Slide the bike wheel into the mount so as not to mix up the rotation. Information about the direction of rotation is on the tire, but you must remember that the bike is still upside down. This is important, otherwise eights may appear on the rim;
- Secure the axles with an eccentric or nut. Check the tightness of the fastening so that the wheel cannot fly off while driving;
- Turn the bike over;
- Return the brakes to their original place (in the case of rim brakes).
At the end of all manipulations, check the functionality “hero of the occasion” and the correct operation of the brakes.
How to remove a wheel from a bike yourself
Every more or less experienced cycling enthusiast knows how to remove a wheel from a bicycle. This manipulation is sometimes needed when a wheel needs to be repaired: replacing a tire, spoke or rim, or simply completely replacing it with a new and more perfect one. Even the most expensive and advanced bike sooner or later presents unpleasant surprises like deformation of the rim, damaged spokes, tubes or tires. The transmission sprockets also wear out, which entails the need for all the same actions described above.
Thru Axles Removal & Install
Experienced cyclists can make the change themselves. Of course, there is a temptation to go to a professional workshop, but the cost of such services is quite high. And experience is never superfluous. In addition, it is not a fact that the service workshop is located next to the house. Lugging a bike on yourself is not a pleasant activity. Wouldn’t it be better to tinker with the bike yourself a little? Consider the features of replacing the front and rear wheels of a bicycle.
How to mount the rear wheel on a multi-speed bike
Correctly carried out repair of a bicycle wheel is not only and not so much correct disassembly, troubleshooting, but also assembly. The entire set of parts must be assembled strictly in reverse order.
- Place all accessories of the bushing mechanism in the drum and secure with the locknuts;
- Place the drum on the spokes of the bike;
- Tighten the spokes to the number of revolutions that they were untwisted. Tightening of the nuts on the spokes is carried out in the direction opposite to untwisting. If the drum still dangles, then tighten it more;
- Slide the cassette onto the hub, observing the following order: main, then single, small stars. The last step is tightening the cassette mechanism with a whip.
Now all that remains is to mount the rear wheel of the multi-speed bike to the frame. Slip the chain over one of the sprockets, then insert the axle into the dropout. The assembly is complete. It remains only to tighten the axle nut or eccentric. Turn the pedals, follow the chain as it moves along the sprockets. If everything is fine, then the speed bike is ready to ride.
How to remove the front axle of a bicycle
Front Wheel Hub Service
The condition of the bike’s front and rear hubs affects the ease of travel. In my humble opinion (which I do not want to impose on anyone), the concept of “a bicycle rolls” or “does not roll” depends not so much on the geometric and mechanical properties of the frame, as many believe, but on the state. bushings, chains, systems, carriages. Although, of course, the properties of the frame should not be neglected either.
A well-adjusted and lubricated bushing should rotate easily and quietly without jamming. If the bushing starts to make strange sounds, or the wheel becomes difficult to rotate, then it is time to wash the bushing, lubricate it, or at least adjust it. With proper care, the bushings can work 10.20 thousand km or more, and it is better to monitor their condition. Replacing the bushing. the operation is quite time-consuming, because in this case you will have to remove all the spokes from the rim.
Maintenance of the front hub is easy. At the beginning of the season, it is necessary to check it for play or excessive tightening of the bearings, and, if necessary, adjust everything. And after 1000-2000 km it is not bad to change the lubricant. If you ride on muddy dirt roads, you can lubricate more often.
That, in fact, is all that needs to be done. It can be added that before a long trip, it is also worth checking the condition of the bushing, because it is inconvenient to adjust and lubricate the bushings in the field.
Almost all front hubs that are found on modern bicycles are similar in design. The differences can be mainly only in the way the wheel is attached to the fork. Some wheels are attached to the fork with nuts, and some. quick-acting eccentric clamp. But this difference practically affects only the way of removing the wheel, and the sequence of disassembly. assembly. adjustment remains the same for all types of bushings.
Some design differences have bushings related to mountain and road groups.
Road and road bike hubs have seals (oil seals) that keep dirt out of the bearings. Usually they are structurally combined with bearing cones.
Mountain and off-road bike hubs, in addition to taper seals, often have rubber boots that provide extra protection from dirt. After all, such bicycles, unlike road bicycles, must be able to ride on muddy terrain. This extra dirt protection increases the weight of the bike and reduces ease of movement, so anthers are not used on racing and road bikes.
Bicycles equipped with disc brakes have special bushings to which a brake disc can be attached.
What does the wheel consist of?
Bicycle wheels are the most conservative component. Of course, there are models on cast disks, all-round wheels are put on track models, but they are in the minority. Still, the majority of bicycles are equipped with spoke wheels.
- ordinary sleeve;
- connecting knitting needles;
- rim protective tape (flipper);
- camera and tire;
- disc (on models with disc brakes).
The hub is the axial part of the wheel, it is an assembly of the central axle, bearings and tapered retainers. Cone bearing systems are most often mounted on bushings with open bearings. They can also be equipped with sealed bearings or slips.
Rim. supporting structure, metal ring. The rims are made mostly of aluminum, with carbon rims being used on expensive models. In terms of rigidity and power, they are divided into three types:
- single-walled. the outer and inner surfaces have one line of contact (jumper);
- double. the inner surface is attached to the sidewalls, separated from the outer;
- triple. the strongest and most durable option: the inner wall is also fixed to the sidewalls, but, unlike the double rim, the triple has an additional wall in the middle.
Vertical bridges form channels running in the direction of rotation. According to the number of such channels, modern rims are divided into one, three- and five-piece:
Spokes. elements of the connection between the hub and the rim. They perform the functions of securing, distributing loads along the rim and central axis, and mitigating vibrations during movement. The rim is perforated, each hole is designed to hold one spoke. The number of spokes is set on a bicycle wheel in multiples of four. Depending on the model, their number varies. from 28 to 40 on average.
The number of spokes for the front wheel is usually less than the number for the rear. This is due to the fact that the bulk of the load falls on the rear of the bike, and there the wheel must be stronger.
- standard (rolled). constant circular cross-section along the entire length from the bushing attachment to the tip;
- aerodynamic (blade-like). elliptical or rectangular profile;
- variable cross-section (pulled). standard cross-section at the heads and tapering towards the middle.
The inner tube is the inside of the tire that holds the pressurized air inside. Tire. the outer shell that makes contact with the road, absorbs bumps, protects the camera. The tire is made of a harder rubber than the tube.
Rim tape, or flipper, is a rubber lining under the tube to protect it from puncture on the spoke tips. Dynamic loads force the walls of the chamber to bend, which causes them to be pressed against the rim surface. Without a flipper, the chamber can be pushed into the hole with the spoke tip. This problem is more pronounced on the rear wheel, where the loads are higher, but the presence of a flipper is mandatory on the front. The torn tape must be replaced with a new one. A proven homemade option. glue the rim with several layers of electrical tape, except for the hole for the nipple.
To properly install the front wheel on the bike, you must follow exactly the reverse procedure for removing.
- We insert the wheel into the grooves of the frame until it stops. Here it is important not to confuse the position of the structure. the direction in which the rotation will occur is indicated by arrows on the tires.
- We fasten the nuts or eccentrics in place. You cannot overtighten, but the fixation must be strong enough.
- Fasten back the rim brakes Put the rim brakes in place
- We turn the bike over to its usual position.
Despite the fact that the front driven wheel is a little simpler in its structure than the rear one, it is still responsible for the course of movement and needs proper care, lubrication of parts, tightening of the spokes.
The rear drive wheel has many mechanisms, but the principle of dismantling and installation is the same, except that it will have to be removed from the chain drive and put the chain in place during installation.
Before removing the front wheel from the bike, it is necessary to get rid of the bike itself of all accessories and additional devices, so as not to damage them under the weight of the structure during the dismantling process.
- We turn the bike upside down, put it on a stand for repair. Or, in the absence of a special rack, simply on a handlebar with a saddle.
- Now you need to decide on the type of brake system installed on the bike.
- Disc brakes won’t be a hassle when removing a wheel. The only thing to consider is that hydraulic brakes do not like the inverted position, because air can enter the system. In this case, the brakes will have to be pumped after all the procedures performed with your bike.
- The rim brakes will need to be unfastened before removing the structure from the mounts. To do this, squeeze the levers with your hands and remove the end of the cable from the clamp, then spread the levers to the sides.
- The hub axle is attached to the fork by means of an eccentric or nuts. In the first case, you just need to unscrew the eccentric, unscrew and remove the wheel from the ends of the fork, gently pulling it up. In the second, unscrew the nut with a wrench; for convenience, you can hold it with a second wrench during unscrewing.
After the wheel is removed, you can continue to carry out the necessary work with it, for which it, in fact, was removed.
How do I fit the front wheel to my bike? Its structure and features.
The front wheel of a bicycle is a driving unit, without which it is impossible to imagine a bike, perhaps a unicycle. The driven wheel, synchronized with the fork, is responsible for the trajectory of the bike and, to a greater extent, the rolling speed. Unlike the rear wheel, the front wheel is simpler in design, but also requires timely maintenance.
A bicycle, like a car, needs regular maintenance, and the front wheel is one such important component that should not be neglected. Let’s give him a little attention!
Removing the front wheel from the fork
Removing a wheel is the simplest maintenance procedure for your bike. This is done very simply:
- Turn the bike upside down.
- Release the rim brake, remove the caliper from the disc.
- Loosen the fasteners from the fork dropouts.
- Remove the wheel axle from the mountings.
On dropouts, the mount is nut and eccentric. In the first case, you will need two 15 mm wrenches. with one we hold the nut, with the other we carefully twist it on the opposite side. With the eccentric, everything is easier. loosen the retaining nut and fold the clamping lever.
It could be a simple 8. 2. It may be an axle not fully inserted into the dropout, unscrew the nuts and push it straight. 3. Perhaps the wheel is shifted to the right side due to the fact that the axle is longer on one side. It is necessary to unscrew the nuts on it, put it so that the axle length is the same on both sides of the wheel, and tighten the nuts.
Lift the led. Spin the wheels. Look how bad it spins. Try to loosen the nuts on the bushings. Maybe the bearings are overtightened, but do not relax too much, otherwise there will be a backlash.
Removing a wheel is the simplest maintenance procedure for your bike. This is done very simply: 1) Turn the bike upside down. 2) Release the rim brake, remove the caliper from the disc brake. 3) Loosen the fasteners from the fork dropouts. 4) Remove the wheel axle from the fasteners.
Such bicycles are also called Penny-farthing. one of the earliest types of bicycle, characterized by a very large front and small rear wheel. The name of the bike comes from the appearance of the British penny and farthing coins, since one of them (penny) is much larger than the other (farthing), and the bike from the side resembled these coins, following one after the other.
My name is Eugene and I am a cyclist. I have been cycling for over 15 years and have tried different disciplines. bmx, mtb, downhill and others. I broke my first bicycle “schoolboy” in half while trying to overcome gravity. I am sure that I will interest you with my website and tell you about the intricacies of the cycling industry so that you become a professional!
What is needed to untwist the sleeve?
- Open-end wrench 17
- Cone wrench 15 (in different bushings there are different sizes of cones 14, 15, 16)
- Bearing grease
- Piece of cloth.
What does the front hub (device) consist of?
Bulkhead front hub on a bicycle
Today we will deal with the bulkhead of the front hub on the bike. This operation is included in the complete maintenance of the bike. This procedure should be performed once a year to maintain the long life of your bushing.
the task of bushing bulkhead is to replace obsolete grease, which during operation has absorbed dirt and moisture from the environment, as well as particles of metal shavings appearing by friction of the bearings against the bushing cups.
We take the tool and unscrew the lock nut while holding the bushing cone with a tapered wrench. It is important to do this only on one side of the axle, so as not to lose the center installed from the factory. This is when the ends of the axle protrude equally from all sides of the bushing.
Inspection of the insides of the bushing
By unscrewing the locknut and the cone, we will see the bearing.
In our case, the balls are in the cage of the separator, but they can also be in bulk. There is no fundamental difference in this, but it is still better when the balls lie in the cup of the sleeve in bulk, since then the load is distributed over a larger area due to the greater number of balls.
Now you need to put the balls in some container, I like to use metal lids for this, and fill them with a degreaser (kerosene, gasoline, etc.) in order to better wash them of old grease. You should also wash the bushing cone and the bushing cup well. all surfaces where our balls will run, for this use a piece of cloth moistened with degreaser.
Pay attention to the condition of the taper tracks, the condition of the balls and the integrity of the bushing cups.
If everything is OK with the cones, cups and balls, we go to stage 3, if not, then the cone can be sharpened or polished, the balls can only be replaced, the cup can be polished, but if it has cracks, change the sleeve.
Sleeve cup after cleaning
It is very convenient to apply grease with a syringe, which can be clogged with grease and is enough for 2-4 bushings.
First, we apply a track of grease to the bushing cup and put the bearings on this track. It is very convenient that the bearings do not run to the sides. It is also convenient to lay out the balls with tweezers. I use it when the balls are not in the separator. On the top of the balls, you can also squeeze a small track of grease to make sure that everything will be in grease.
This stage is the most difficult, since you need to correctly lock (adjust) the locknut with the bushing taper. From the beginning we screw the cone and the lock nut onto the axle until it stops.
Adjusting the cone of the bushing
Next, we take our keys. set the cone wrench on the cone (in the photo on the right), and put the wrench on the opposite side (in the photo on the left). We twist the cone wrench, and hold the wrench in place. We twist until we feel resistance, after that we give a little more effort and stop.
To tighten the cone wrench, twist counterclockwise, and the wrench clockwise (towards each other)
Now we take the wrench and throw it over to the side where the cone wrench is installed and complete the adjustment by tightening the locknut while holding the cone wrench in place (or move it towards the wrench).
After the performed operation, we check how the hub axis rotates.
- If the axle is spinning tightly and with jerks, then you need to repeat step 4, but tighten the cone less when we feel resistance.
- If the axis turns very easily, then we check the axis for beats (swing it to the right to the left), if there is play, then we repeat the procedure in step 4, but tighten it more when we feel resistance. If there is no backlash, congratulations you’ve finished the front hub maintenance.
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Ideally, the axle should spin easily without any jamming or extraneous noise.
Bushing seizure can also be:
- due to damaged cones / bushing cups / balls
- curve axis
The hub is ready, now it can be put back on the bike again.