# How To Remove The Eight Rear Wheel Of A Bicycle

## Defining the problem

“Eight”. deformation of bicycle wheels due to violations and deviations of the rim from the plane. The result is a violation of the correct form. If the wheel is rotated along the axis, the trajectory will resemble the shape of eights. You can ride a vehicle, but while riding it will feel wagging and tapping, the wheels of the bike become fragile, continue to bend further and become unusable.

### Needle lift

The method consists in adjusting the spokes: tightening or loosening. Work on the correction of the “eight” on the wheel is performed using a spoke wrench:

• With a “figure eight” between the needles. tighten the first needle slightly, and weaken the second in proportion;
• The curvature opposite one knitting needle. the knitting needle that is opposite the defect, is tightened by a quarter, and the adjacent ones are weakened by one eighth;
• If the “eight” on the wheel is opposite several spokes. the spokes closest to the center are pulled up in half a turn. the further from the center, the more it is worth weakening or tightening other spokes.

It is not recommended to use pliers when adjusting, as they can accidentally erase the edges of the nipple.

In case of significant deformation of the wheel rim, it is better to start checking all spokes for tension. Carry out preventive measures: tighten or weaken the elements. Correction of the figure eight is carried out by the adjustment method:

• Mark the curved area with chalk;
• Find the center spoke that is at the largest point of curvature;
• Loosen the side where the rim is bent and pull on the opposite side at the same time;
• Weaken the central needle by half a turn. return it by three quarters, and return it back by one quarter;
• Pull the nearby spokes as much as the central spoke was weakened and, gradually moving, get close to the edge of the “figure eight”;
• Next Spokes. Tune Fewer RPM.

When the repair is completed, you need to check the wheel for Curvature by the contact method.

Eliminating the figure eight on a bicycle by adjusting the spokes can seem like a difficult and time-consuming process to beginners. However, this method is very accurate and will allow you to get rid of even the most difficult defects. As a result of training, the work will not take long. It should be remembered that the “eight” is formed even in the most accurate and experienced cyclists, so you need to know how to repair a wheel yourself.

## Defect elimination tools

To repair your vehicle yourself, you will need the following tools:

• Marker or chalk;
• Plastic assemblies for tire dismantling;
• Spoke key.

## Elimination methods

Even if there is no experience in such matters, acting carefully and following the rules, you can fix the “eight” on the wheels of a bicycle with your own hands at home. Before starting work, you need to prepare tools:

• Spoke wrench;
• Chalk or marker for marking defects;
• Plastic assemblies for mounting and dismounting tires.

There are two methods of dressing a bicycle wheel: power and spoke tightening. Each has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Spoke wrench Bicycle mounting

## Elimination of defects in a bicycle wheel

When the curvature of the wheel is found, it’s time to start straightening it. Every owner of a two-wheeled vehicle can do it with their own hands, especially since such problems can arise with enviable regularity. There are two ways to eliminate the figure eight on your own:

• Strength straightening, or “knee” as cyclists say.
• Wheel spokes tightening and loosening method.

## Determination of curvature on wheels

So, there is a suspicion of the occurrence of wheel deformation, and it remains to determine exactly where it was formed. Turning the bike upside down and clearly fix it.

The first identification method is visual, which allows finding the location of large and medium defects. The wheels must be strongly spun, since at low speeds the eights, even the coarsest ones, show poorly. The rear wheel can be pedaled at all.
Curved sections move away from the plane of rotation to the side. At maximum deflection, the wheels must be quickly grasped in this place. It is not easy to do this at high speeds, and the hand can slip off, so it is better to resort to the following method.

The second method. contact, consists in marking the damaged area. As an indicator, you can take a marker, or rather a regular crayon. Steep the wheel and slowly bring the chalk to the rim. First of all, he strikes the bulge of the figure eight along the edge. After the “top” is determined, the wheel must be spinned even more and continue to bring the chalk closer. This defines the entire area of ​​curvature. As soon as the chalk “runs” over the entire rim, the test can be considered complete. The focus of the figure eight will clearly stand out as a bold line against the background of a pale stripe along the entire circumference.

### Take the survey

There are several varieties of the “figure eight”: between two spokes, opposite one of the spokes, opposite the adjacent elements.

To determine the problem, the bike should be turned over and then secured. The degree of deformation can be assessed by the following methods:

• Visual. To determine the curvature, you need to turn the wheel quickly and at speed you can see the deformed area. Having noticed a defect, you need to remember its location or grab it with your hand. This method is not very accurate, especially if there are several damaged areas.
• Contact. A similar technique, more precisely, it is based on marking the curvature zone. The wheel must be freed from the tire, slowly turned. At the moment of scrolling. bring chalk or marker to the back of the rim. He will touch the part that is curved, automatically marking the deformed place.

If a “figure eight” of the rear wheel is found, it is better to use the pedals to spin the wheel.

## How can you fix the “eight” on a bicycle wheel, basic methods

Cycling is a great pastime with family or friends and has health benefits. But during a walk, you can accidentally run over a bump or fall into a hole. The main force of the impacts falls on the wheel, as a result, it can deform, which will lead to various problems with the rim. But not all users know how to fix the figure eight on a bicycle wheel on their own. There are several main ways. Mastering the techniques will not be difficult.

### Rear wheel

• First of all, remove the wheel. A ratchet is most often included in the rear hub design. It must also be removed first, since there is a cone and a lock nut under the ratchet. Otherwise, the sleeve will serve.
• We disassemble the bushing and wipe all parts from old grease and dirt.
• Looking through the radius nuts, raceways and the bearings themselves. If there is mechanical damage, we replace the worn part with a new one.
• After checking, we put all the parts of the bushing in place, put in a new grease. We tighten radius and lock nuts.
• We tighten the cone and the locknut from the side of the ratchet, and on the other side we adjust the tension of the bearings. The bearings often relax when the second pair of nuts is tightened. In order to avoid this, you can use the bike frame or call an assistant.
• Install the ratchet in place. Check the ease of rotation, Fix.
• The wheel is assembled, and now you need to install it on the frame. If there is a gap between the locknut and the frame, then it must be filled with a thick washer.
• Presses the wheel with a clamping nut on the ratchet side. Now you need to check the correct bearing tension. After that, the wheel is clamped on the other side.
• Check the ease of rolling and the presence of backlash. If everything is done correctly, the wheel will spin smoothly, and there will be no backlash.

### Causes of occurrence

The main reasons for backlash are the following:

• Abrasion of the wheel hub;
• Wear of the radius nut (differently cone) and damage to the bearing raceways;
• Abrasion Special notches on the lock nut, which serve for a closer contact with the radius nut. The high degree of adhesion between the nuts prevents loosening;

Most often, these reasons arise during active use with extreme loads on the wheels and the bike as a whole. The service life and the quality of the parts are NOT less important.

The following causes can be eliminated without replacing parts:

• Loosening of the compression between the radius and the locknut. Requires elementary Key pull:
• The gap that appears after the wheel is in place between the bike frame and the locknut. It is necessary to fill the empty space with a washer or engraver;

## What is backlash?

Classically, backlash is called a small gap between mechanical parts, which rotate together and are interconnected. Simply put, the free movement of one element, and not leading to movement of another element of the system.

Bicycle wheel play is some displacement of its plane with respect to the axis of rotation or hub, leading to a figure-eight movement.

Due to the backlash during the ride, the so-called wheel beating is felt. This phenomenon occurs when the wheel is displaced to the right or left in relation to the vertical axis of motion.

## Bicycle rear wheel play. causes and remedies

Cycling and cycling tourism are gaining more and more popularity. Many people switch to a bicycle instead of a car and have great pleasure.

However, during operation, there are also negative moments associated with malfunctions of various parts and mechanisms. One of the most common problems is wheel play. If untimely repairs, this can lead to the destruction of the bike.

## How to remove backlash?

To eliminate backlash, first of all, it is necessary to determine the prerequisite for its appearance. To do this, remove the wheel, grab one end of the wasp and move it up and down. If wobbling is observed, take two keys (thin, open-end) and tighten the radius and lock nut from both sides.

Attention! Strong clamping will NOT allow the wheel to spin, weak clamping leads to backlash (clothing).

After adjusting the clamping, we check the presence of backlash, also grasping here. If the problem persists, disassemble the bushing completely and look inside for the cause.

The front and rear wheels of a bicycle are partially different in design, so we will consider them separately.

### Front wheel

There are slight differences in the design of the front and rear wheels, so let’s consider the front wheel in detail:

Wheel play is a common problem that occurs during bicycle operation. You can eliminate this malfunction manually, rather than resorting to the help of a specialist.

If a bicycle is used with this malfunction for a long time, the wheel may be completely damaged. Here, the cones and raceways inside the bushing are deformed. This will result in a complete replacement of the rim with the defective hub.

## Wheel design

First of all, consider the design itself. In fact, there is nothing complicated about them:

• The hub is the most complex mechanism, the only moving element in the wheel;
• Spokes. Not all wheels are designed with spokes, but most are. Lightweight and durable, good force transmitting, but also compensating for serious deformations;
• The rim is a power base, the stability of the entire structure to the load depends on the strength of the rim;
• Rubber is the tire and tube, sometimes only the tire is the outer part that is responsible for traction on the road or track. The configuration of the rubber is the key to the dynamics of the bike.

Each wheel element is important and several types of wheel are supplied in the modern industry. Let’s analyze them in more detail.

## What Langtu offers

For any question. whether it is the repair of a skewed bicycle wheels or a complete re-spacing of the rim. please contact our masters, who will provide high-quality and fast service. We have all the necessary tools, as well as a machine on which it is possible to carry out any manipulations at a professional level.

Among the most common jobs The most popular replacement for bicycle wheel spokes. This service includes the removal of old rods, the correct and consistent installation of new ones, as well as adjustment of their correct tension. We also help to get rid of:

• Complex curvature of the rim;
• Inaccurate operation of bearings in bushings;
• An old tube or tire;
• Problems with the stars.

Maintenance of bicycle wheels includes rare breakdowns of various difficulties.

## What is backlash?

Classically, backlash is called a small gap between mechanical parts, which rotate together and are interconnected. Simply put, the free movement of one element, and not leading to movement of another element of the system.

Bicycle wheel play is some displacement of its plane with respect to the axis of rotation or hub, leading to a figure-eight movement.

Due to the backlash during the ride, the so-called wheel beating is felt. This phenomenon occurs when the wheel is displaced to the right or left in relation to the vertical axis of motion.

Bicycle wheel. The bicycle wheel takes on the loads that arise during the operation of this vehicle. The purpose of the wheel is to support the weight of the cyclist and the entire structure of the bicycle and to cope with the shock loads that arise from.

Bicycle rims. On different types of bicycles, rims with different designs are installed, but the overwhelming majority are rims of the so-called box section. They are designed for tires with bead edges. In the very rim.

Bicycle wheel size. The overall size of a bicycle wheel is the rim diameter plus the thickness of the bicycle tire. Bicycle wheel diameter is expressed in English inches. There are currently six common bicycle wheel sizes.

Double-sided bushing. Double-sided hub (Flip-Flop). a hub that is designed to quickly change the type of drive and gear ratio By shifting the bicycle wheel 180 ° along its axis. It has threads on both sides and allows you to install.

Bicycle cassette. For mountain bikes, cassettes are made with a set of stars from 11-28T to 11-36T for 8-10 stars. For road racers from 11 (12).22T to 11 (12).27T for 8. 11 stars. Campagnolo mountain cassettes are road compatible with equal views.

## Pedals spin when riding with a load (or without)

1. “Dogs” in the drum of the rear hub are worn out (as an option. in winter, in severe frost, the grease in the drum “seized”). You can determine that the problem is precisely in the bushings as follows: Make sure that when you turn the cassette stars and the chainring turns with the chain, but the bike does not move.

Decision
: In the first case, repair or replacement of the rear bushing, in the second. disassembling the bushing and replacing the grease with a less thick one (sometimes even the grease is removed altogether, by the onset of heat) In both cases, skill and tool are required, so it is better to contact Velomaster.

2. Cassette sprockets or chainrings are badly worn. If, when scrolling the pedals, the star from the back or front remains stationary (the chain slides along the teeth), then it is to blame. A similar malfunction often occurs when replacing a chain. the old one, gradually stretching, changes the profile of the teeth of the sprockets, and when installing a new chain, its links can no longer fully catch on the bored teeth.

Decision
: Usually, the most popular cassette sprockets and the middle sprocket of the front system wear first. Alternatively, you can change the ratio of gears, and ride on those stars, which were usually little used.

Of course, this is a half-measure, acceptable if there is currently no money to buy new consumables. Therefore, as soon as you notice pedal scrolling, in which the sprockets are to blame, change both the chain and the cassette.

If you replaced only the chain and got scrolled on an old cassette, then immediately buy a replacement for it, because otherwise the new chain will quickly become unusable.

Changing cassette and chain is easy, but requires a special tool.

## Bushings

The most technological complex element of the wheel is the hub. Even a standard mountain bike hub is complex, and there are several types of hubs that contain transmission elements:

• Ordinary bushings;
• Hubs with mount for brake disc (rotor)
• Internal gear shifting (usually a planetary hub)
• With brakes (usually drum brakes).

Fewer requirements are imposed on the front bushings, therefore they are usually the simplest, and the maximum “superstructure” is an additional brake rotor drum of disc brakes.

Simple bushing with eccentric

Bushings are available in steel, aluminum and titanium. Turned and stamped products are considered to be of high quality, inexpensive models are made by casting. Structurally, the wheel is fixed to the frame by inserting the ends of the hub into the feathers and fixing them with bolts or eccentrics. Eccentrics. an ambiguous fastening, on the one hand, it is the ease of installing and removing the wheel, and on the other hand, the ability of an attacker to quickly disassemble the bike.

Special attention should be paid to bearings. Usually they are divided into type-setting, easy to replace and maintain, and industrial, pressed and debugged in production, lighter and more reliable, but not repairable

### Rear wheel

• First of all, remove the wheel. A ratchet is most often included in the rear hub design. It must also be removed first, since there is a cone and a lock nut under the ratchet. Otherwise, the sleeve will serve.
• We disassemble the bushing and wipe all parts from old grease and dirt.
• Looking through the radius nuts, raceways and the bearings themselves. If there is mechanical damage, we replace the worn part with a new one.
• After checking, we put all the parts of the bushing in place, put in a new grease. We tighten radius and lock nuts.
• We tighten the cone and the locknut from the side of the ratchet, and on the other side we adjust the tension of the bearings. The bearings often relax when the second pair of nuts is tightened. In order to avoid this, you can use the bike frame or call an assistant.
• Install the ratchet in place. Check the ease of rotation, Fix.
• The wheel is assembled, and now you need to install it on the frame. If there is a gap between the locknut and the frame, then it must be filled with a thick washer.
• Presses the wheel with a clamping nut on the ratchet side. Now you need to check the correct bearing tension. After that, the wheel is clamped on the other side.
• Check the ease of rolling and the presence of backlash. If everything is done correctly, the wheel will spin smoothly, and there will be no backlash.
READ  How to remove a tubeless tire from a bike

## Front Hub Axle Standards

– 9 x 100mm. Found on most modern bicycles. Obsolete version with nut fastening or Most popular with eccentric clamping;

– 15 x 110 mm. Hollow plug-in with eccentric clip, suitable for X-Country bikes or Trail;

– 20 x 110 mm. Hollow, plug-in, fits on bikes for extreme cycling. The eccentric version can be quickly removed and installed. For heavy loads in extreme disciplines, use the bolted version;

– 10 x 135mm. large for fat bikes.

The large diameter of the hub axle provides for high rigidity and strength of the wheel-to-fork connection, although this increases the weight of the entire hub. The axle wheel is installed and removed longer than usual. Separate hollow bushings here can be compatible with conventional forks with the introduction of an adapter.

## Speeds are poorly reset to a higher gear or downshift after one or two

The speed cables move with difficulty, which is caused by contamination of the inner surface of the shirts or their laying with a large bend.

Decision
: Remove the cables, pull them out of the shirts, pour WD40 into the inner cavity of the shirts. If there is rust or white deposits from winter reagents, both cables and shirts must be replaced.

When asked whether it is necessary to lubricate the speed cables on a bicycle, the answer is a resounding “NO”, because dust and sand will adhere to the lubricant, after which the gear shifting will become blurry again.

It is necessary to lay the cables in such a way that there is no excessive bending anywhere. However, it is not necessary to leave large loops near the rear derailleur and shifters. they can snag on obstacles while riding.

During operation, the wheel mount is loosened and play appears. Untimely elimination of the indicated malfunction can lead to the failure of the bike at the most inopportune moment.

## Self-tensioning of the spokes, adjusting the bicycle wheel. DIY complete wheel assembly

The wheel is one of the most important parts of a bicycle. If you take two bikes. one super duper and the other a cheap ten-speed. and swap wheels, the cheaper one is faster. But finding good wheels is not easy. And the fact that the wheel was balanced at the time of purchase does NOT guarantee that it will remain so during operation.

The very process of wheel alignment requires high qualifications and, as a result, a lot of experience. Many professional riders do almost all of the bike tuning themselves, but the professionals rely on wheel tuning. Therefore, you must be prepared for the fact that the first time you may NOT be able to do the alignment well.

To work you need a special key for the spokes (more precisely for the nipple of the spokes). Nipples come in different sizes: 3.22 mm., 3.3 mm., 3.45 mm., 3.96 mm. It is important that the key fits exactly, otherwise it will slip.

This is what the spokes keys look like

It is desirable but not necessary to have a special wheel straightening machine and a tool for measuring the tension force of the spokes. And it’s really great if you have a special tool for centering the hub rim.

Wheel straightening machine

If you do not have a special machine, then you can adjust the wheel directly on the bike using the brake pads of the rim brakes to assess the deformation. In this case, it is necessary to especially carefully check how level the wheel is and how the brakes work.

The actions are usually described in steps: the first step, the second, etc. In this case, most of all, some operations will need to be repeated several times. It is quite possible that after straightening the ovoid (radial displacement), the lateral displacement will have to be corrected again, or vice versa.

There are several criteria for evaluating alignment:
lateral displacement
Spoke tension
Centering bushings

Correction of all THESE misalignments occurs by tightening the spoke (turning the nipple clockwise) or loosening the spoke (counterclockwise). In this case, only the nipple rotates, the spoke itself does not rotate.

Spokes that are on the right. pull the rim to the right. Those on the left. to the left. If on one side the spokes are tighter, then the rim will be “skewed” at this point. It is worth Paying attention to the following important point: the spoke affects not only the section of the rim to which it is attached, but also the adjacent (but to a lesser extent).

One spoke tension acts on adjacent rim sections

Since few people have a wheel straightener, the further description is focused on the option with installing a wheel on a bicycle. Naturally, before driving the rim, you need to remove the tires and tubes. (There should also be a Flipper. such a strip that protects the camera from the spokes, you can immediately remove it).

Spoke tension

You can begin to inspect the wheel with the tension of the spokes. If there are spokes that are NOT stretched at all. We need to tighten them up.

You can measure the tension of the spokes using a special tool. Each wheel has its own recommended values. The rear wheel spokes always tighten more than the front spokes.

Analog and digital spoke tension meters

Perhaps experienced mechanics can tell the tension by sound or feel. But it seems to me This is not the most reliable option.

Many bicycle mechanics do NOT know how to properly assemble wheels that can be ridden for a long time without adjustment. But even qualified mechanics do not have enough time for thorough work and skip some operations, as a result of which quality and reliability are reduced. Therefore, it is best to understand and assemble the wheels yourself. This is done as follows:

A. Set

1. Lubricate the spokes and the rim with oil where they touch the nipple. Without this, it is impossible to pull the spokes tight enough.

2. If the holes on the hub flanges are countersunk on one side only, then the spoke heads must be on the non-countersunk side. Countersink is designed to bend the spoke.

3. Insert nine spokes into one flange so that there is a free hole between them and so that the heads are on the outside. If it is a rear wheel, start at the right (threaded) side of the hub.

4. Take the rim, find among the holes shifted to the right, the closest case is the valve hole.

5. Insert the first spoke into this hole and screw the nipple two turns. This spoke is called the key.

6. Count four holes clockwise from the key spoke, insert the next spoke and tighten the nipple.

7. Check your progress against the following conditions:

A. The threaded part of the sleeve is facing the working one;

B. The spoke closest to the valve hole is from it;

C. Both spokes connect the right side of the rim to the right flange of the hub:

D. Three free holes between the spokes.

8. If all these conditions are met, securing the remaining seven spokes, using for this every fourth hole in the rim.

9. Turn the wheel over. Now it is facing you with its left side. Next, you need to connect to the rim nine spokes inserted from the outside into the left flange.

10. Find the key spoke. It is located to the left of the valve hole or through one nipple hole.

The tenth spoke should be next to the key case (left. in the original) from the valve hole. In this case, the tenth spoke does not have to cross the key spoke.

11. After installing the tenth spoke, the remaining eight spokes of the left flange are dialed in the above sequence.

12. Half of the spokes are now dialed. In the case of the rear wheel, these spokes are called drive spokes. Their heads should be located on the outside of the 2 flanges. If you look at the rim, then along the entire circumference, pairs of free holes and pairs of holes with a nipple should be interspersed. Nipples Must only be screwed in a few turns.

13. We turn to the tensioning needles, the heads of which should be located on the inside of the flange. Threading one tensioning needle into the hole of the flange and twisting the sleeve so that the already dialed needles receive a direction as close as possible to the tangent to the flange. In the case of a rear wheel, grasp the threaded part of the sleeve and turn it clockwise. The first idler spokes intersect the three pre-assembled drive spokes (counting only those belonging to the same flange). Each tension needle must run outside of the first two needles it crosses and inward under the third one that it crosses.

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When dialing the first nine idler spokes, be sure to insert them into the corresponding holes in the rim, i.e. In those that are offset to their flanges.

14. The rest of the tension needles are recruited in the same way. It may happen that the ends of some spokes do not reach the nipple holes. This is usually caused by one or more of the nipples snagging on the rim with their tips and NOT going into the holes. If this is not the reason, then you have turned the nipples too far, which, until all the needles are dialed, should not be wrapped more than two turns.

B. Pre-tension

15. Before tightening the spokes, screw all the nipples to the same depth. For example, with long knitting needles so that their ends come out flush with the nipple splines. If the spokes are short for this, it is sufficient that the same number of threads are visible on all spokes. Uniform screwing of the nipple is very important because It greatly facilitates the entire further process. In this case, the spokes should NOT be stretched yet.

16. In the case of the rear wheel, now is the time to tackle the umbrella. The right spokes should have a higher tension than the left spokes. For most bushings, it is sufficient as a first approximation to turn all right nipples another 3.5 turns.

17. Proceed to evenly tension the spokes. Starting from the valve hole, turn each nipple one turn. If there is a lot of slack in the knitting needles, add one turn at a time. In this case, having passed three-quarters of the rim, it may become difficult to turn the nipples. This means that the second turn is excessive and all tightened by the second turn of the nipple should be returned to their original position, i.e. Unscrew one turn. After that, start again from the valve hole and screw all the nipples half a turn.

18. Install the wheel on the machine and see which rim roughness is greater. vertical (ellipse) or horizontal (figure eight). You always need to rule the biggest one.

C. Eight editing

19. Suppose we start with “eights”, and the worst part of the rim is offset to the right at the four spokes. Two of them go to the right flanges and two to the left. Turn the left nipples a quarter turn, and the right ones by the same amount. Release, this section of the rim will move to the left. However, the tension of the spokes does not change, since as many spokes have been loosened as tightened, and, moreover, by the same amount. If the rim section is shorter, for example, of three spokes. one left and two right, you can pull the left spoke half a turn, and release each of the right spokes a quarter of a turn. This is the principle of wheel balancing, thanks to which it is possible to eliminate horizontal runout, and not deteriorate the vertical.

20. What has been done may not be enough to completely correct this unevenness, but if there is improvement, you should not try to immediately achieve the final result. Now find the worst rim deflection to the left and tighten it. Thus, we go from one side to the other, we keep the pre-defined umbrella. DO NOT try to straighten the figure 8 better than 3 mm at this point. This is done in the final alignment after adjusting the umbrella and ellipse.

D. Editing an ellipse

21. Find the section of the rim farthest from the hub. The tension on the spokes in this place brings him closer to her. This increases the rigidity of the entire wheels. The balance principle described above applies here as well. Suppose the Site Found has three nipples. two left and one right. If you tighten the two left-hand spokes half a turn each, and the right one one turn, then the rim protrusion will retract without breaking evenness. Thus, you can straighten the ellipse, and not worsening the figure eight.

22. Find the next section of the rim farthest from concentricity and pull it out as described. Then the next section, and so on. With each together, the wheel will become closer to the circle, the spoke will be pulled tighter.

23. To what extent should the needles be tightened? The best thing is to be as stiff as possible, Until the edges of the nipple begin to eat away. the tension on the spokes gives the wheel strength. While riding, at any given moment, the various forces applied to one spokes add up to those applied to the others. Subtracted. The spokes must have sufficient tension so that if the applied forces are weakened, the spoke never loses tension. Consecutive cycles of pulling and sagging lead to fracture.

24. If the wheel is already round and the spoke tension is insufficient, tighten all the nipples by the same amount (for example, half a turn) and check the wheel for concentricity again.

25. Straightening an ellipse requires more tightening than a figure eight, in which case you can pull the knitting needles half a turn or even a full turn at a time. For preliminary dressing of figure eight. quarter and half turn, for precise dressing. 1/8 and 1/4 turn.

E. Umbrella

26. The rear wheel umbrella should be in a plane halfway between the tips of the rear hub. Otherwise, the bike will tend to return to the side.

27. The easiest way to check the correctness of the umbrella is the distance from the rim to the brake pads. This distance is measured with the wheel in the normal position and with the right end of the axle inserted into the left tip (i.e. the wheel is inverted). In both cases, the distance must be the same. However, this method is suitable only if it is not bent here.

28. To adjust the umbrella, with the spokes fully stretched, release the nipples on one side by the same amount and tighten the nipples on the other side (usually 1/4 turn). If the spokes are not very tight, you can only tighten the nipples on the side where you want to push the rim. This will simultaneously increase the rigidity of the entire wheel.

F. Final setup

29. The final setting consists in sequentially repeating all three processes, straightening the ellipse, figure eight and umbrella. Adjusting one can affect the rest, so at each moment you need to work on what is most different from the norm.

G. Final tension

30. Now you should have a wheel that does not differ in any way from the serial factory one: all three parameters are within normal limits, the spokes are quite tight. Many mechanics would consider the job finished. However, when driving, such a wheel will quickly go out of the norm. The fact is that the spoke heads have NOT yet fully entered the holes of the flanges, but the nipples into the holes of the rim. When driving, they start “sit down” denser and imbalance the wheel.

31. There are several ways to shrink knitting needles. For example: take the wheel in both hands, press hard on the spokes at their intersection, return the wheel and do the same with the next four spokes, and so on along the entire circumference of the wheel. In this case, creaks and crackles will be heard, that is, the sound of shrinking spokes. After this procedure, the wheel may become somewhat out of order. Adjust it again and repeat the SPOKING. Continue the whole process until it stops affecting the rim and the sound stops.

32. There is another reason why the wheel quickly goes wrong. This is the twisting of the knitting needles. When pulled tightly, turning the nipple can twist at first, i.e. Turn with knitting needles instead of pulling it up the thread. For example, you want to tighten the knitting needles by a quarter turn. At the same time, the following happens not so rarely: first, at one eighth of a turn, the spoke itself rotates with the nipple, then the thread is fed and pulls the spokes for the remaining 1/8 of a turn. After a while, the twisted spoke gives back and spins the tightening into the nipple. The easiest way to get rid of this is to tighten the nipple 3/8 of a turn and then loosen it 1/8 so that a clean 1/4 turn pull-up is obtained without twisting. With some experience, you will feel when the spoke begins to curl. A beginner can, before stretching, apply marks on all the needles with a felt-tip pen, which will rotate when twisted.

33. After the wheel is fully balanced, make sure the spoke ends do NOT protrude above the rim. Otherwise, they must be cut down.

34. Remove any remaining grease that will deteriorate monotube or chambers!

35. When adjusting the wheel, do NOT rush in any way. If you are tired, postpone work and return to it only with a fresh mind.