How To Remove The Chain On A Speed ​​Bike

How to replace a chain on a bicycle with your own hands

The need to remove / install a bicycle chain arises for various reasons. Someone regularly boils it in paraffin or wax, someone decided to carry out a comprehensive cleaning in a can of gasoline, and someone came to such a state that the bicycle chain slips under load and needs to be changed. How to do this is intuitively clear, but for someone new to the operation, it is difficult to do without explanations and answers to exciting questions.

At the crossroads of two technologies: methods for replacing a worn chain on a bicycle at speeds

remove, chain, speed, bike

The main purpose of the procedure is to unhook the old chain and connect the new one together. Before doing anything, make sure the chain is engaged now. It either represents a single whole, or has a detachable link (lock) in its design. This is important, since the type of fastening determines the list of required tools and, in fact, the maintenance method.

Lock / not lock

So, the challenge in how to change a worn chain on a bicycle is to find out if there is a lock. This is difficult to determine on a dirty chain, so clean it. It does not have to be cleaned in full accordance with the routine procedure for removing old grease from the chain.

It is enough to brush off the main layer of dirt from the side plates and turn the pedals in the opposite direction. The shape of the detachable link is noticeably different from others, and immediately catches the eye. In more detail, its design can be studied from the photo.

Decoupling techniques

  • If there is a lock in the chain, just open it.
  • If the chain is a single unit, it is necessary to press out one of the axles (pins).

How to change the chain without a lock on a bike with shifting gears

In the absence of a lock, the chain replacement technology is reduced to three operations:

  • Pressing the pin out of any link.
  • Shortening the new chain.
  • Positioning and pressing in the axle on a new bike chain.

How to remove a bicycle chain without a lock

First, place the chain closer to you so that it is convenient to remove it after opening and start a new analogue on the stars. To do this, simply move the rear derailleur to the extreme position (smallest sprocket), and align the front derailleur with the third gear gear (largest sprocket).

Squeezing a pin out of a link is much easier than pushing it back in. Select one of the constituent elements of the chain and extrude the axis in any of the following ways:

  • Tapping with a hammer through a knitting needle or thin stud.
  • Squeezing with a hard tip fixed on the chain squeeze bolt.

It is more convenient to squeeze out at the lower level. After disconnecting, it is easier to remove the chain at idle when the pedals are spinning in the opposite direction.

How to shorten the chain

Usually a fresh chain is slightly longer than even a tired product. If you put it without shortening, the position of the rear derailleur will not correspond to the required one. The quality of gear shifting suffers from this.

The easiest way to calculate the correct size is to compare the lengths of the old and new chain. It is not necessary to use a tape measure, just put them next to each other. Having combined both ends on one side, on the other we will see a discrepancy in dimensions. Excess links are extruded according to the already stated method, taking into account the recommendation for incomplete removal of the axis from the hole.

How to install a new bike chain

Let’s assume that all the technology requirements are how to choose a chain for a high-speed bike. successfully completed. Those. in front of you is a part that fits the width of the rear and front stars and you just have to put it on:

  • Position the product so that the extruded pin is closer to you.
  • Run the chain over the large sprocket in the idle direction (reverse ride pedaling) through the front derailleur.
  • Put the chain on the cassette and go around the rollers of the switches according to the diagram shown in the figure.
  • Press the pin with a squeeze.

How to replace a worn out chain with a lock on a speed bike

The technology is similar to the technique of changing a bicycle chain without a lock: remove the old one, shorten the new one and put it on. And we can say that here you cannot do without squeezing. extra links need to be removed with something.

Although here you can omit the recommendation about the incomplete pressing out of the pin. in the case of using the lock, it just needs to be completely removed. And then the alternative works 100%: the hammer and the spoke do their job, and you don’t need to press in anything.

Removing the lock

According to the technology of changing the chain on a bicycle at speeds, the detachable link is disconnected with special pliers. In fact, you can take in the area of ​​the lock with both hands (preferably with gloves) and pull the ends of the chain to each other.

Installation of the lock

Pass the plates with the axles into the rollers, align all the grooves and spread the chain in the area of ​​the lock in opposite directions, grasping it with both hands. Again, you can use a pair of pliers with a suitable profile, if available. To make the lock finally click into place in the absence of pliers at hand, follow the list of steps:

  • Turn the pedals so that the lock is on the top tier.
  • Hold the back wheel.
  • Step on the pedal with your foot. The section will stretch and the link will sit as expected.

How to chain a speed bike or mountain bike

The chain can fly off or break when riding a bicycle. Reasons for this, at least 2. Let’s figure out what these reasons are and how to deal with them.

Reasons for breaking the chain

The first option is a star bent on the front system. In this case, switch to a different speed and go further.

If during movement you are used to using all the stars, then the damaged one needs to be replaced. Of course, this can only be done if the system is collapsible. If this is not the case, then you need to change the entire system with a connecting rod.

If there are no breakdowns, then the problem is with the speed settings. The adjusting screws on both switches will help with this. Thanks to them, the chain does not go to extreme speeds. And it breaks down in case of incorrect adjustment of the screws.

The chain slipping off the largest chainring in the rear derailleur indicates that you need to turn the screw marked L. Our goal is to have the chain sprockets on the derailleur opposite the large chainring.

Accordingly, if it breaks down with a small one, then adjust with the screw H until the switch stars are exactly under the small star.

On the front of the system, if the chain breaks off the small star towards the frame, then turn the screw marked Low.

When the chain breaks from the big sprocket to the connecting rod. adjust High.

To adjust the screw marked Low, you need to set the lowest speed on the bike.

Tighten until the distance between the inside of the frame and the chain is about 1 mm.

Tighten the High screw at the set maximum speed until the gap between the outer frame and the chain becomes 1 mm.

The most common breakage factor is a change in speed when climbing a hill or other load. The links of the chain during the break can either break or rivet.

If the links are riveted, you can try to insert them back. A chain puller is useful for this. For this reason, it is desirable that he always be at hand.

If the chain links are broken, then you need to remove the broken one and the adjacent one, then rivet the chain with the same puller.

Reinstalling the chain is not difficult. Pull the rear derailleur slightly down and forward to loosen the chain.

Then we put the chain on the sprockets of the front system. A little effort dirty hands and the bike is back on the move!

How to change the chain on a speed bike. How to change the chain on a multi-speed bike at home

The need to remove / install a bicycle chain arises for various reasons. Someone regularly boils it in paraffin or wax, someone decided to carry out a comprehensive cleaning in a can of gasoline, and someone came to such a state that the bicycle chain slips under load and needs to be changed. How to do this is intuitively clear, but for someone new to the operation, it is difficult to do without explanations and answers to exciting questions.

At the crossroads of two technologies: methods for replacing a worn chain on a bicycle at speeds

The main purpose of the procedure is to unhook the old chain and connect the new one together. Before doing anything, make sure the chain is engaged now. It either represents a single whole, or has a detachable link (lock) in its design. This is important, since the type of fastening determines the list of required tools and, in fact, the maintenance method.

Lock / not lock

So, the challenge in how to change a worn chain on a bicycle is to find out if there is a lock. This is difficult to determine on a dirty chain, so clean it. It does not have to be cleaned in full accordance with the routine procedure for removing old grease from the chain.

It is enough to brush off the main layer of dirt from the side plates and turn the pedals in the opposite direction. The shape of the detachable link is noticeably different from others, and immediately catches the eye. In more detail, its design can be studied from the photo.

Decoupling techniques

  • If there is a lock in the chain, just open it.
  • If the chain is a single unit, it is necessary to press out one of the axles (pins).

How to change the chain without a lock on a bike with shifting gears

In the absence of a lock, the chain replacement technology is reduced to three operations:

  • Pressing the pin out of any link.
  • Shortening the new chain.
  • Positioning and pressing in the axle on a new bike chain.

How to remove a bicycle chain without a lock

First, place the chain closer to you so that it is convenient to remove it after opening and start a new analogue on the stars. To do this, simply move the rear derailleur to the extreme position (smallest sprocket), and align the front derailleur with the third gear gear (largest sprocket).

Squeezing a pin out of a link is much easier than pushing it back in. Select one of the constituent elements of the chain and extrude the axis in any of the following ways:

  • Tapping with a hammer through a knitting needle or thin stud.
  • Squeezing with a hard tip fixed on the chain squeeze bolt.

It is more convenient to squeeze out at the lower level. After disconnecting, it is easier to remove the chain at idle when the pedals are spinning in the opposite direction.

How to shorten the chain

Usually a fresh chain is slightly longer than even a tired product. If you put it without shortening, the position of the rear derailleur will not correspond to the required one. The quality of gear shifting suffers from this.

The easiest way to calculate the correct size is to compare the lengths of the old and new chain. It is not necessary to use a tape measure, just put them next to each other. Having combined both ends on one side, on the other we will see a discrepancy in dimensions. Excess links are extruded according to the already stated method, taking into account the recommendation for incomplete removal of the axis from the hole.

How to install a new bike chain

We will assume that all the requirements of the technology, how to choose a chain for a high-speed bike, have been successfully met. Those. in front of you is a part that fits the width of the rear and front stars and you just have to put it on:

  • Position the product so that the extruded pin is closer to you.
  • Run the chain over the large sprocket in the idle direction (reverse ride pedaling) through the front derailleur.
  • Put the chain on the cassette and go around the rollers of the switches according to the diagram shown in the figure.
  • Press the pin with a squeeze.

How to replace a worn out chain with a lock on a speed bike

The technology is similar to the technique of changing a bicycle chain without a lock: remove the old one, shorten the new one and put it on. And we can say that here you cannot do without squeezing. extra links need to be removed with something.

Although here you can omit the recommendation about the incomplete pressing out of the pin. in the case of using the lock, it just needs to be completely removed. And then the alternative works 100%: the hammer and the spoke do their job, and you don’t need to press in anything.

Removing the lock

According to the technology of changing the chain on a bicycle at speeds, the detachable link is disconnected with special pliers. In fact, you can take in the area of ​​the lock with both hands (preferably with gloves) and pull the ends of the chain to each other.

Installation of the lock

Pass the plates with the axles into the rollers, align all the grooves and spread the chain in the area of ​​the lock in opposite directions, grasping it with both hands. Again, you can use pliers of a suitable profile, if you have one. To make the lock completely click into place when there are no pliers at hand, follow the steps below:

  • Turn the pedals so that the lock is on the top tier.
  • Hold the back wheel.
  • Step on the pedal with your foot. The section will stretch and the link will sit as expected.

Advice

  • Get a squeeze, even if the lock is present. The chain can break and this tool will come in handy on the way. In addition, it is much easier to shorten the bike chain with squeeze. When choosing a release tool, be guided by high-quality expensive models made of high-quality metal. The ideal option is to take a multi-set.
  • Do not avoid using the padlock. The thing is practical and reliable. Detachable chain is quicker and easier to remove for the same routine cleaning before lubricating.
  • Do not use an old lock with a new chain. New. only new.

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How to shift gears on a bike

Gear Shifting 101: How and When to Use Gears

Along with the brakes, gear shifting is one of the basic mechanical functions of your bike. Learning how to shift gears may seem basic, but practice gear shifting and shifting effectively. this is something that even experienced riders can work on. Correct gearing will not only improve your speed, but also make the ride more comfortable and increase your endurance on long journeys.

What does all of this mean ?!

Terminology. one of the hardest things about learning how to switch Low / High, Large / Small, Light / Hard, Fast / Slow, Front / Rear, One by One, Twice, Three for. if your head is already spinning you can brush up on the following dictionary words:

Low gear = Easy = Good for climbing: “Low” gear on your bike. it is the smallest chain ring in the front and the largest gear on your cassette (reverse gears). This position will be the easiest to pedal, and you will be able to pedal uphill with minimal resistance. Getting into this position is called “downshifting”.

High gear = Stiff = Good for downhill: “High” gear on your bike. this is the largest chain ring at the front and the smallest gear on your cassette (reverse gears). This position will be the hardest to pedal and you will be able to accelerate when going downhill. To get into this position, it is called “upshifting”.

_- Speed ​​Bike: When you were a kid, you probably bragged to your friends about the number of “speeds” your bike has. Whether it’s 7, 18, 21-speed, etc., that’s what you had in mind. this is the number of gears on your bike. You can determine this number by multiplying the number of teeth in your cassette (rear gears) by the number of chain links (front gears) on your bike. For example, if your bike has two chain rings and 11 teeth in the cassette, then you have a 21-speed bike. However, in today’s bicycle industry, expensive adult bikes are rarely referred to this way because, in fact, bigger doesn’t always mean better. on this below!

One, Two, Three-Po: The number of chain links (front gears) on your bike determines whether your drivetrain (gear system) will be referred to as “alternating”, “two-by-two” or “Three-Decker.” The current trend in the bicycle industry. strive to produce the same gear range with fewer chain rings. The result is a larger cassette (rear gears) that has more teeth and often more teeth on the largest gear train in the cassette. What for? Because, in general, fewer chainrings make the bike more efficient, lighter, and easier to operate and adjust. For this reason, you will often see single drivetrains on high-end mountain bikes and dual drivetrains on high-end road bikes.

How to shift gears: the basics

So now that you have a basic understanding of what these gears are called, how do you shift? Depending on the type of bike, your shifters may differ slightly; on road bikes (or any bike with a folding handlebar), your derailleurs. these are the same levers you use to engage the brakes. To operate the switches, push the lever to the side until you hear a click. For most flat handlebar mountain and hybrid bikes, you shift gears with paddles that you control with your thumb. Some bikes are equipped with “clutch switches” or a disc that is located inside where you place your hands. In these systems, you shift gears by rotating the disc forward and backward.

Your shifters are connected to a cable enclosed in a protective sheath. When you click on the gears, the cable tightens and looses, applying more or less force to the derailleur, which moves your chain up and down the cassette or chain rings. Below we explain what each lever does:

Left hand: Controls the forward gears / front derailleur. moving the chain up and down the chain rings. These levers cause large jumps, gears when changing terrain.

Right hand: Controls the reverse gears / rear derailleur. moving the chain up and down the cassette. These levers are designed for small adjustments, transmission and use on small terrain changes.

Large lever: The larger of the two gear levers moves the chain onto the large rings. So big = big. Switching to large rings with your RIGHT hand will make pedaling EASIER. Shifting into higher gears with the LEFT hand will make it HEAVY.

Small lever: The smaller of the two gear levers moves the chain to smaller rings. So small = small. Shifting down to smaller rings with the RIGHT hand will make the pedal press HARD. LEFT-handed downshifts will make pedaling EASIER.

No big / small leverage? You may have a SRAM road drivetrain that uses a “double-push” system. This means that there is a smaller lever hidden behind the large brake lever and you can only move it in one direction. A long press (with two clicks) will move the chain to a simpler gear at the rear (right) and a larger and harder gear at the front (left). A short press (with one click) will move the chain to a smaller, harder gear in the back (right hand) and a smaller, lighter gear in the front (left hand).

You may also have a handle shift. This means you have a dial that you turn back and forth to change gears. Turning the dial forward will shift the chain to a smaller and harder gear in the back (right hand) and a smaller lighter gear in the front (left hand). Turning the disc back will move the chain to a larger and lighter gear in the back (right hand) and a larger and lighter gear. hard gear in front (left hand).

Cross chain

Cross chain. is a term for being in one of the following gear combinations:

LARGE / LARGE: Largest tooth in cassette (lightest gear) and largest star ring (hardest gear))

SMALL / SMALL: Smallest tooth in the cassette (hardest gear) and smallest chain link (lightest gear)

In these positions, the chain stretches at an angle, which over time can damage the transmission and can cause the chain to slip or cause the front derailleur to make noise and malfunction.

Using the trim function

Some road bikes have a “trim” front derailleur. The pad allows minor changes to the front derailleur to eliminate chain friction, but not cause a complete shift to a different chain ring. This feature will come in handy when approaching the “cross chain” positions mentioned above.

So, if you are in the largest chain ring and start shifting to the large barbs on the cassette with your right hand, you may start to hear a grinding noise that indicates your chain is rubbing against the front derailleur. You can flick the small lever with your left hand once. to move the front derailleur slightly to match this chain position. Likewise, if you are in the smallest chain ring and start to shift to the smaller prongs on the cassette and start to notice a grinding noise, you can move the switch slightly by pressing the larger lever once with your left hand.

Effective and efficient gear shifting techniques

Well, here’s the most important thing to remember when riding any bike: THERE IS NO PERFECT GEAR! SHIFT!

Very often we see people putting too much energy into their pedals when they climb a steep hill in a large chain ring, or swing their legs when they are spinning in a gear that is too easy for the descent they are riding. driving time. keep your cadence as constant as possible (the speed at which your pedals make a full revolution)! This requires one of two things: shifting gears or increasing power output. The problem with power output is that unless you’re Wonder Woman, you have a limited supply of power. We recommend changing gears frequently to improve efficiency while riding.

Liv’s Tip: Start shifting to lighter gears with your right hand early to maintain a steady rhythm. Remember, your right hand is for small terrain changes. If you find that your pedaling speed is slowing down dramatically, you may have to use the front derailleur (left hand) to make it easier to shift gears for the big climb ahead. But if you’re already uphill and putting out a ton of power to the pedals, you might notice that your front derailleur doesn’t want to work! You will move, you will hear a grinding noise, but nothing will happen and you will most likely stop in the middle of a hill.

Instead of chafing these gears, you will need to apply a little more power to the pedal travel right before shifting, and then ease the pedal travel when shifting. Less chain pressure makes it easier for your derailleur to remove the chain from the larger ring to the smaller ring.!

4 conclusions from the CyclingTips Ultimate Chain test

Of course, chains are much more important to road bikers, where every watt lost can mean a big loss over the long ride, but we mountain bikers have a lot to learn from this too, especially since some mountain bike chains have been supplied. through the wringer together with the road chains.

We’d recommend reading the entire best bike chain test, but if you just want to figure it out, here are four key takeaways.

There are clear differences between chain brands

Is the chain just a chain? Apparently not, according to this investigation. CyclingTips found a power difference of up to 4 watts between the most (11-speed Shimano) and least efficient (SRAM Eagle X01) chain. Keep in mind that this is only one part of the drivetrain and SRAM says performance testing is only valid if it is done for the entire drivetrain and they believe their drivetrains generally perform comparable to the competition. However, 4W. this is a pretty significant drawback, especially if your ultimate goal. efficiency.

There was also a huge difference in the strength of the chains tested. CyclingTips believes that the most durable (SRAM XX1) can use thousands of kilometers more than the least durable (KMC X11E). According to Adam Crane, “SRAM claims to be the longest chain in the world since their XX1 and they are not kidding. Both X01 and XX1 chains outpaced any other chain in net elongation so much that I had to repeat the test and the results were mostly identical. Their longevity is phenomenal. “.

teeth = more strength

Tests have shown that the more teeth a chain is designed to work, the stronger it is. This may contradict the conventional wisdom that older 8-, 9- and even 10-speed systems offer wider barb widths, which increases chain surface area and should make them more durable. However, here everything was the other way around.

The reason for this is less clear, but some materials have been improved, manufacturing processes have been improved and new low friction coatings have been added, the chain design itself has changed, and where in 8- and even 9-speed chains there are internal links pivot exclusively on the connecting pins, in newer chains these forces are usually distributed between the pins and specially stamped plates.

Your lubrication is as important as your chain

The chains were tested using a specially formulated lubricant to accelerate chain wear during the test. This showed that no matter how strong the chain is, the lubricant you use will play the most important role in the longevity of the drivetrain. Kerin apparently grinded an endless number of sprockets and cassettes with any chain that crossed the 2500 km mark effectively destroying the rest of the drivetrain before it crashed. As always, use a good lubricant and keep the transmission clean. here’s a real way to get the most out of your drivetrain components.

Most brands offer good options

One of the main findings of the study is that there is probably nothing wrong with having stock already; Shimano’s chains seem to be the most efficient on the market, but still have decent durability. SRAM’s chains weren’t quite as effective in this test, but their durability earns them big points and should help them survive mountain bikes all year round, even in the worst conditions. If you currently have a network of warehouse stocks, do not rush to change it, it is probably doing an excellent job.

However, it makes sense to spend more on big brand chains. For example, the Eagle XO1 and XX1 were noticeably stronger than the NX and GX chains, and if you’re racing, the XTR is more efficient than the XT.

Read the complete test for the best bike chain.

selection of gear for a touring bike

Gear. This is the smallest gear on your bike’s front crank arm. If you haven’t become best friends with him yet, you might want to start.!

Touring bike gear ratios depend on a number of factors: where you plan to travel, the terrain, your experience, how strong you are as a rider and, of course, how much gear you carry with you.

I recommend picking gears for all occasions, that is, have the gears low enough to climb the steepest climbs, and also have gears high enough so that you don’t “spin” when the wind is on your side.

You will never have enough low gear if you plan on handling a little bit of everything. Nice grandma gear is so small that you can move at walking speed when using it.

The best way to compare sprocket and cassette combinations on bicycles. is to check their transmission inches. They are very easy to calculate: it is the diameter of the wheel multiplied by the size of the chainring divided by the size of the rear gear. With this information you can compare bikes with different wheel sizes and drivetrain settings. Touring bike 18 inches. it’s a great low gear and 113 inches. good high gear.

I do my calculations with Sheldon Brown’s Gear Calculator.

Given that the triple crankset for touring (48-36-24) has a range of 18-113 inches, as this compares to drivetrains on other bicycles capable of cycling?

Typical Road Bike Gear

Traditional Road. 53x39t with 11-23t = 44 to 126 ″ Semi-Compact. 52x36t with 12-25t = 38 to 114 ″ Compact. 50x34t with 12-25t = 33 to 110 ″ Compact with long cage. 50x34t from 11-32t = 28 to 119 ″ Road Triple. 50x39x30 t from 12-27 t = 29 to 110 ″

Traditional road, compact road and road triple connecting rods.

Typical gear for cyclocross

Traditional CX. 46×36 t from 12-30 t = 32 to 104 ″ CX1. 38 t from 11-36 t = 28 to 93 ″

Conventional CX and CX1 crankset systems.

Typical MTB Gear

Single. 32 t from 11-40 t = 22 to 79 ″ Single XX1. 32 t from 10-42 t = 21 to 89 ″ Double. 38×24 t with 11-36 t = 19 to 96 ″ Triple. 42x32x24 t with 11×36 t = 19 to 106 ″

Single, double and triple MTB cranks.

Internal gear hubs

Alfine 8s. 38 tons with 20 tons diameter = 27 to 84 ″ Alfine 11s. 38 tons with 20 tons diameter = 27 to 111 inches Rohloff 14s. 40 tons with 16 “diameter = 19 to 100”

Alfine 8, Alfine 11 and Rohloff hubs.

It really depends on where you are riding, the terrain, your experience and how strong you are. Here’s a guide I put together for the “average” rider looking for enough gears to climb hills on a tour.

Without baskets: 33-110 ″ Baskets 5 kg: 29-110 ″ Baskets 10 kg: 25-110 ″ Baskets 20 kg or more: 20-100 ″ Off-Road Wagon: 18 to 100 ″

While touring bikes often require a wider gear range, it is also worth noting that there are larger clearances between each gear than with lower range transmissions, these clearances will be most noticeable on flat terrain when you are looking for the perfect gear to maintain rpm. pedals. A wide-range drivetrain isn’t a problem for many cyclists, but if you’re mostly traveling in the plains it might be worth considering a cassette with a narrower range to fine tune the cadence.

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Modern transmissions use 10- and 11-speed chains, cassettes and sprockets. Manufacturers are phasing out 7-, 8-, and 9-speed transmissions, although spare parts will still be available, although 10- and 11-speed transmissions use a narrow chain, they have proven to be just as strong and reliable as the output gear.

Note that an 11-speed drivetrain requires a wider cassette-on-hub housing than systems up to 10-speed, so compatibility with older wheels can be an issue.

Measuring the difference in width between 10- and 11-speed chains.

Universal connecting rods

Touring cranks have a wider gear range than mountain or road cranks. The smallest chainring is usually 24 teeth and the largest is. 48 teeth, and 36 steps serve the middle gears. Touring cranks require a long clip MTB derailleur to cover the large sprocket size difference.

One, two or three stars

Splined crankshaft

Some manufacturers (such as White Industries) mount their chainrings to the cranks using splines rather than bolt-on chainrings. This system allows various chainring configurations with a maximum clearance of 24 teeth between the largest and smallest chainring (for example, 48x24t or 50x26t). This system provides the same range as the triple bar system.

Wide range splined connecting rod with just two rings.

Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD)

BCD. this is the bolt size used for different types of chainrings. MTB stars and road stars are not compatible due to differences in their respective BCDs. Traditional road stars and compact road stars are also incompatible.

Here is a list of standard chainring BCD sizes:

104 / 64bcd: 4-link MTB crank arms 110bcd: compact and semi-compact road cranks with 5 arms 130bcd: traditional 5-arm cranks 130 / 74bcd: road triple 5-arm cranks 135bcd: 5-arm Campagnolo road cranks (including triple)

Then came the outer BBs, which are still screwed into the BB housing, however, the larger bearings are outside the BB housing. The system is tough and reliable. Using the outer bottom brackets, I was able to drive up to 20,000 km before I had to replace them. External cranks are standard on many modern road and mountain bike cranks.

The latest technology for manufacturing carriages. this is a press fit, in which the bearings are pressed into rather than screwed into the frame carriage housing. You probably won’t find it on many touring bikes, but it is becoming very popular on cyclocross, road and mountain bikes.

Square cone, outer and pressed-in bottom brackets.

are becoming wider and wider as the bicycle industry moves away from triple chain drivetrains, wide cassettes finally allow people to successfully tour on double chains.

Road cassettes and MTB

Standard road cassettes usually hold a maximum of 27 tons, however there are now road cassettes that go up to 32 tons (with these you have to use a long road derailleur with a cage). MTB cassettes available from 11-32 to 11-36 ton (Long cage MTB derailleur required for double and triple installation).

Wide range cassettes

Shimano and SRAM recently released 40T and 42T cassettes, a wide range of cassettes designed primarily for mountain bikes with one chainring. While SRAM requires a dedicated hub with XD driver, Shimano cassette will fit existing 11-speed hubs.

Road cassette, MTB cassette and wide range cassette.

11 speed cassettes

A wider hub housing is required to mount the 11-speed cassette to the hubs. Before installing the bike, check if your hub is compatible.

Modification of the cassette for a wider range

In order to turn conventional 11-36 10-speed cassettes into 11-40 ton cassettes, a number of companies have sprung up to make room by removing one of the smaller gears (16 or 17 tonnes) from the larger one (40 or 42 tonnes). This setup has been tested and works well on single transmissions. Visit Hope or OneUp to learn more.

Added a 42 ton screw to this MTB cassette.

Not all derailleurs work with all cassettes and chainrings; derailleur cages come in different lengths depending on which cassette you want to use. Any triple transmission should use a long derailleur.

Short Cage Switches: Accepts cassettes up to 28-30 tons. Long Cage Travel Derailleurs: Accepts cassettes up to 32t Long Cage MTB Derailleurs: Accepts cassettes up to 40t SRAM 1 × 11 derailleurs: Should only be used with their 10-42t cassette

Short cage, long cage and SRAM 1 × 11 derailleurs.

Bicycles with internally meshed hubs often have a smaller gear range compared to touring cranks and a wide range cassette. Rohloff hub. the only product that provides a 526% jump from smallest to largest gear. In comparison, the Shimano Nexus has an 8-speed range of 309% and an 11-speed one. 411%.

Shimano hubs

The smallest gear ratio you can use with a Shimano hub is 1.9: 1. So a 26 “8-speed bike will only have 26-79” versus a 700c bike. 27-84 inches A 26-inch 11-speed bike will only have 26-105 inches and a 700c bike. 27-111 inches.

Rohloff hubs

The smallest gear ratio that can be used with a Rohloff hub is 2.5: 1. So on a 26 “Rohloff bike you can get only 15-95” and on a 700c bike. 19-102 inches.

Reducer gear

Pinions have a wide range (636%), delivering both lower and higher gears than a Rohloff hub.

Shimano Alfine 11s, Rohloff 14s and Pinion 18s gearbox.

In the western world it is getting harder and harder to get high quality parts for 7, 8 and 9 speeds, however in the rest of the world you probably won’t find any parts for 10 or 11 speeds.!

If you are embarking on a big adventure in remote corners of the world, I recommend using a 9-speed transmission due to the availability of parts. It is much more likely that you will find chains, cassettes, links and sprockets.

I found it difficult to get bike parts in Cambodia.

How to remove a chain from a bicycle without squeezing. Troubleshooting

The main sign that something went wrong is considered to be inaccurate gear shifting, extraneous noise when driving.

The express diagnostic method helps to determine without special tools that the circuit needs to be replaced. Set the speed selector to the largest sprocket. Pull the chain away from the teeth. Estimate the resulting gap. If it contains more than 4 teeth, then the bike chain needs urgent replacement. Two prongs “warn” that of course you can ride, but wear and tear is just around the corner.

In general, it is necessary to decide how to remove the chain from a bicycle in the following situations:

  • the need to replace an old part;
  • installation of new speed switches on the bike;
  • shortening the length by several links;
  • cleaning the structure from dirt and adhering debris.

Sequence of actions for removing the chain

The algorithms of actions when working with solid and lock structures will be slightly different. So, you examined the chain and found a clamping device (most often it is on it that the brand name is embossed).

  • Use a screwdriver or knitting needle to pry on the pincer clamp. Work carefully, trying not to damage the element or lose it, it will come in handy when installing it in place.
  • Then disengage the entire link. It will not be possible to cope without tools, use pliers or pliers to open.
  • Remove the chain and perform the necessary actions.

If there is no lock, then to remove the chain, you will have to work hard.

  • Decide on the link to open. Take a special tool. squeeze. With its help, it is convenient and easy to squeeze out the pin (link axis).
  • Position the selected link so that the release axle is opposite the pin.
  • Twist the handle and extrude the link shaft. Extrusion direction. towards the pressing screw, that is, towards yourself.
  • Make sure that the pin does not jump out of the socket, otherwise it will be difficult to put it in place later. The bike chain is ready for replacement or repair.

Please note: if this is not the first time you remove the chain, then open the other link. This will reduce the chances of loose links.

Tool

Internet experts and connoisseurs of Soviet tales usually recommend a nail and a stone, but progress does not stand still and it is better to purchase a chain squeeze (chaintool). a simple tool resembling a child’s vice without a bed, which can be purchased for 500-1000 r.

It makes sense to keep a squeeze in a backpack only on difficult multi-day hikes, usually this is a workshop tool, therefore when choosing, you should not pay attention to light versions and squeezes in multitools. they are usually unreliable and are thrown away after 5-10 uses.

If there is no squeeze nearby, a hammer, a couple of nuts and a nail will help, but more on that later.

Reasons for chain slip through stars

Transmission misbehavior problems occur under load: pedal pressure while shifting gears. Slippage is especially pronounced when driving uphill when this load is at its maximum. This pattern is equally true for a single speed bike and a speed bike. Let’s figure out what serves as a prerequisite, and whether it can be fixed.

The reasons why chain links break off the stars are simple and transparent:

  • elongation of links due to wear;
  • the teeth of the rear and front sprockets are worn out;
  • both factors at the same time.

The latter option is most common if the chain or cassette has not previously been changed separately.

Chain length is an indicator of chain wear. The standard size is 304.8 mm. Stretching leads to the fact that the teeth of first small, and then large stars are grinded down more, due to which the efficiency of gear shifting on a high-speed bicycle decreases several times. Especially noticeable lengthening will affect the transition from lower to higher speeds.

If the distance between the rollers of the chain increases, the width of the sprocket teeth decreases. You can easily notice the development with your own eyes. To calculate the degree of cut, the thicknesses of the teeth of a worn and a new star of the same size are compared.

And finally, another reason why a transmission wears out quickly is incorrect gear shifting. For simplicity, remember once and for all:

  • In front, the stars are counted from the smallest.
  • Rear cassette numbering starts from largest sprocket.
  • It is necessary to combine higher gears with higher (large stars in front and small ones in the back), and vice versa.
  • Since there are fewer sprockets on the front cassette, there are several sprockets for each sprocket on the rear cassette. For a standard 3X8 system:
Front123
Rear1, 2, 34, 5, 66, 7, 8

Proper use of the gearshift system avoids excessive chain skewing, which would cause tremendous wear on parts.

You can’t use the gear like that

Cycle chain design and its features

A bicycle chain is a fairly simple metal structure, the main purpose of which is to transfer torque to the rear wheel. Large dynamic loads during riding lead to wear on the chain mechanism, therefore the cyclist needs an understanding of the device.

The chain consists of separate links, each has:

  • inner and outer plates;
  • pin (axis);
  • roller;
  • sleeve.

The main difference in designs is the presence or absence of a lock. The locking bicycle chain has a special clamping device, a lock. Such a device is more convenient for repair, but in operation, a solid structure is more reliable, it has fewer weak points.

On singlespeeds, the chain runs straight along the sprockets, practically without deviations, and may not change during the entire life of the bike. With high-speed bikes, everything is more complicated: there is no straight line between the front and rear sprockets, the chain is at an angle relative to the frame. Therefore, owners of high-speed bicycles have to think about how to remove the chain more often. Timely replacement of the chain mechanism will avoid wear of the entire transmission structure.

Features of work in the absence of squeeze

Lack of squeeze is not a problem either. Instead of squeezing, a pin is enough. a nail, a drill, a dowel, slightly smaller than a roller in diameter, and a hammer with which this pin will knock out the pin

The main thing is the accuracy of the actions, it is important that the blows do not bend the link plates. for this, a nut or other amplifier is laid under the chain and inside the link.

If shortening without squeezing will be done for the first time, it is recommended to practice on an unused link, since the work will require skill. In addition, without squeezing the chain, in any case, you will have to remove the chain from the bike, since you need a solid support.

Sequencing

Consider how to shorten the Gall bike chain (this is what is used on 95-99% of all modern bicycles).

Disconnect

  • Install the squeeze so that its core is exactly in the center of the pin (roller).
  • Smoothly rotate the squeeze handle until the roller comes out to the level of the second inner plate.
  • Disconnect the link without removing the pin to the end.

Removing unnecessary links

  • We fix the required length and determine the pin for squeezing, taking into account that the released link plates coincide with the plates of the already squeezed.
  • We repeat the sequence from p. No. 1, completely squeezing the roller.

Connect

We reduce the chain and carefully, centering the squeeze at the start and controlling the process every 0.2-0.3 mm, press the pin into the link released in p. No. 2. Some people prefer to remove the chain. in this case, before connecting, you should check if it is threaded into the switches.

We check the performance

  • The pressed roller itself. If there are squeaks or problems with mobility on the link. set the plates in place, bending the chain along the plane of the link until the clicks stop, there is enough hand strength, no tool is required.
  • The whole shortened chain. We try to make a few turns on the smallest stars. if there are problems, this will be noticeable immediately.

For a repeating type chain (half-link, with one pair of repeating plates), the process is simplified, there is no need to choose a pairing. You can shorten the chain of lightweight models and some sports options only with a specialized tool, and the procedure for shortening is described in the proprietary documentation.

View 1: Chain lock with two pins

I haven’t seen such locks for a long time, but they are still used for single-speed chains and on old Soviet bicycles. For example, KMC MissingLink 1 sp Z410-SO lock.

Design

Their design is extremely simple. there is a cheek on which there are 2 pins. They are pushed into the holes in the chain links and pressed in with a double-hole washer. Everything is fixed with a locking cheek.

How to install a double pin chain lock

To close this lock, you need to rest against the pin and the cheek of the lock from the side where there is no cut. We press with pasatizh, and the lock is installed. If there are no pins, use a screwdriver. We rest with a screwdriver on the edge of the cheek, where there is no cut, and press until the lock closes.

How to open a chain lock with two pins on one side

These locks are the easiest to open. It is enough to grab the pin and the locking cheek from the side of the cut with pasatizh, press a little. and the lock is open. If no pliers are available, a screwdriver can be used. We rest with a screwdriver on the edge of the cheek from the side of the cut and press until the lock opens.

Removing and putting on the chain on the bike

Quite often it becomes necessary to remove and then put the chain back on the bike, for example, when cleaning the chain, replacing or changing its length. To do this, you must first disconnect and then reconnect the bicycle chain. This process is very easy if the chain has a special connecting lock, but if the chain is without a lock, then a special tool is required to disconnect it. a chain squeeze. What other tools may be required for repair, we read in our article. tools for repairing a bicycle. Let’s take a closer look at the case with and without a lock.

Bicycle chain extractor

How to remove a chain with a lock

As already mentioned, this process is very simple and in most cases no special tools are required. Despite the wide variety of types of locks, they all disconnect in almost the same way. If you still cannot open the lock manually, you can use a special tool (see the figure below).

READ  How To Change The Rear Wheel On A Speed Bike

Variety of bike chain locks

Disconnecting the chain lock

How to remove a chain from a bike without a lock

If the chain does not have a lock, then a tool is needed to remove it. squeezing the chain. Without a squeeze, it is quite difficult to disconnect the chain and the chance of damage to the chain links is very high, and it is almost impossible to connect a chain opened in this way. If the chain has to be removed often enough, then it is better to have such a tool in your arsenal, squeezing the chain greatly simplifies working with the chain without a lock.

In order to disconnect the chain without a lock, it is necessary to press out one of the pins (link axis), just for this procedure we need a squeeze. Any link is suitable for this operation, but it should be borne in mind that the next time it is pressed out, it is worth choosing a different link, since each time the pin looses more and more. Ideally, a connection lock should be purchased and installed.

So, we proceed to the direct riveting of the chain. The chain link must be inserted into the squeeze (as shown in the figure below). It is worth considering that most puckers have two grooves for placing the chain, in this case you need to install the chain in the groove closer to the fixing screw. The second groove is only needed for adjustment.

One end of the pin must remain in the link

How to chain a bike without a lock

Before reconnecting the chain on mountain and sport bikes, it is necessary to correctly pull it through the rear derailleur rollers, see fig. below, marked with a red line:

Correct chain position

Next, go to the direct connection of the chain link. To do this, it is necessary to carry out the same operation, only in the reverse order. We place the chain in the groove near the fixing bolt so that the protruding pin looks at the squeeze nose. Twisting the knob, smoothly push the pin back until it fully enters the link. After this procedure, the links into which the pin was pressed should move freely, if this does not happen, then you need to use the adjusting groove for the chain squeeze. Having placed the desired link in the adjusting groove, it is necessary to ensure that the ends of the pin protrude from both ends equally.

The chain links must move freely!

If the chain is from Shimano with a disposable connecting pin, press it into the link using a squeeze and break off the rounded end. This tip is needed to simplify the process of pressing the pin.

Shimano chain link pin

Here, in principle, is all you need to know about how to put on and remove the chain on a bicycle, as well as disconnect and connect the chain without a lock. If you have experience in disconnecting circuits without squeezing, we ask you to share it with us and our readers in the comments below.

What to do if the bike chain falls off?

Why the chain on a bicycle can fly off. an overview of the causes and their elimination

Thousands of new members are added to the cyclist army every year. Novice owners often do not know what causes the chain on a bicycle to fly off and what to do in such situations. Let’s consider the main causes of the problem.

Loose chain tension on bicycles without gears

The rear fork of a conventional bicycle, without shifting speeds, under the influence of loads and vibration, changes position relative to the axis of the rear hub. Chain drive slack increases. A slight push releases the chain from the sprocket teeth. The chain slips off. To fix the problem, you need to follow the steps in sequence:

  • Flip the bike.
  • Loosen tensioning bolts.
  • Set the wheel to the required depth.
  • Tighten the bolts firmly in the new location.

You will enjoy cycling and the chain will no longer fly off if you set the wheel properly. Correct position implies:

  • lowering of the chain by about 5 mm. the “in line” state makes it difficult to pedal;
  • the axle of the rear wheel hub must be perpendicular to the plane of the frame. Otherwise, the risk of deformation of the rim increases;

To improve the grip of the nuts, use spring washers.

If critical slack is not eliminated in the extreme position of the sprocket, you need to rivet the links to reduce the length of the chain.

Insufficient chain tension on bikes with gear shifting

Often the reason why the chain flies on a high-speed bike lies in the fact that the compensating spring does not perform its functions to prevent sagging. Occurs when the spring is loose or the chain is stretched. If the check shows excessive chain elongation, you need to remove the extra links. The weakened spring cannot be repaired, you will have to change the rear gearshift block.

Adjustable by bolts with indexes “H” or “L”.

  • The chain will not fly off the rear wheel cassette if the derailleur sprockets are aligned with the largest or smallest sprocket in the cassette. Bolt “H” changes alignment with the smallest, and bolt “L” with the largest diameter stars.
  • For the front wheel, bolts “H” or “L” set the gap between the teeth of the stars and the walls of the front derailleur frame equal to one millimeter. A knob with the letter “L” sets the gap between the largest star and the inner wall of the frame, and with the letter “H”. between the smallest star and the outer side of the limiter.

You need to carry out the action with the gearshift unit with the setting on the shifter of the speed mode corresponding to the selected star.

Damage to individual parts of the bike

Sometimes the chain on a bicycle flies off when the teeth are deformed from a blow or fall. In such cases, it is very difficult to return the teeth to their previous position on their own. Depending on the mounting of the stars on the cassette, a separate damaged star or the entire block changes.

Violation of the geometry of the bike frame or wheel (figure eight) can lead to unbalance and slipping of the chain from the star.

The cause of the breakdown is a change in the direction of the carriage and bushing axes. As a result, the chain links do not fit tightly enough to the teeth of the sprocket and easily jump off. An additional negative manifestation of deformation of individual parts of a bicycle is accelerated wear of moving parts.

A slight “eight” can be corrected at home by loosening or tightening the knitting needles. Riding with a deformed wheel is possible, but you should remember that a rock or pothole increases the figure eight and the chance that the chain will come off on the bike. It is best to contact a repair shop, where they will explain to you why the chain on the bike flies and solve the problem with the breakdown.

Bicycle pedals spin or chain flies

Bicycle sprocket crank wear

Bicycle sprocket problems can be seen with the naked eye. If you apply too much force to the pedals of your bike while riding, this can lead to a number of problems over time. For example, a bicycle chain is stretched and then you have to change the bicycle chain

There may be another option that the sprockets on the bike wear off (lick off over time) and, as a result, poor grip, which leads to pedaling while riding.

It is quite possible that your asterisk is just dirty and it will be enough just to rinse it thoroughly from dirt, and then wipe it with kerosene to remove excess impurities.

If you have a problem with a licked asterisk. Then you will need to first remove the rear sprocket, and then disassemble it and possibly replace some parts with new ones, or maybe sharpen the teeth of the sprockets. It is better to give it to a professional for study. in a service center, or even better to replace the drive mechanisms by buying new parts instead of old ones, because how long they will most likely not last after repair.

Bicycle chain problems

The chain is also subject to wear over time, and if your chain flies while driving, it may be stretched and requires replacement. Although things may be much simpler. It may be sufficient to rinse it out of dirt with water, and then lubricate it well

, dripping one drop of oil for each link. A characteristic sign of a poorly lubricated chain in this case can be a squeak when driving, pedals spin poorly and you have to make significant efforts. Don’t force the bike, just lubricate the chain with oil.

Then there is such a situation. Personally, I met with a replacement chain.

The chain was stretched and replaced with a new one. So, at that moment, I drove for about a couple of years of intensive riding and of course the chain and sprockets came into a state of slight wear. I replaced the chain, but when I put a new one everything was fine, until I got caught in the rain and in very heavy mud. From that moment on, the chain began to slip on the bicycle. I cleaned the bike pretty well and oiled it well. Although this had never happened before, no matter how mud I rolled, there was no scrolling. Well, it turns out there is such a need (feature) as “aging of the chain”, ie the chain was too new for my rear sprocket, and therefore I just need to wait for it (chain) to age for some time. In a simple way, you need to go and wait until the chain is rubbed with an asterisk. In this case, the problem arose only when the bike fell into the mud.

Ideally, the entire transmission of the bike should be changed. The transmission in this case is the entire mechanism leading to the movement of the bicycle. stars, chain, cassette (rear set of stars). If the chain is old, then it leads to wear on the stars. If the stars are erased, they will lead to a gradual deterioration in the state of the chain.

Also, chain slip problems can be caused by a jammed link. Those. some link is not bending softly enough, roughly speaking, bent in one direction or at the wrong angle. In this case, you need to bend the link into place or, alternatively, bite it out of the chain.

Rear ratchet problems

a malfunctioning ratchet can also cause pedaling to spin. Perhaps too thick oil was poured into the ratchet and the bearings inside began to stick. Perhaps there is no oil at all and the mechanism is rusty, it is possible that the lubricant inside is mixed with dust and dirt, i.e. the grease has become patchy. The ratchet bearings may have fallen off. In this case, remove the bike ratchet, clean it, if necessary, from dirt (until it is completely cleaned), and then lubricate it with thick oil.

It is imperative to check whether anything needs to be lubricated at all. When you removed the ratchet, look at the color of the oil, if it is black or, so to speak, dirty or with an admixture of metal (the bearing flew). in these cases, we clean and lubricate. Check if all bearings are in place. It so happens that a bearing breaks over time. this must be replaced with a new one. Also, when you look inside the cassette, make sure there is no liquid inside. If there is still liquid, we clean and then lubricate. So, to summarize, if you look inside the ratchet (or cassette) and see clean oil, the bearings are in place, there is no liquid. in this case, do not touch anything. the bicycle chain lubrication and cleaning are simply not needed.

How to quickly and conveniently clean the chain.

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Now you know how to fix bike chain wear with your own hands. With the replacement of the necessary functional elements and the correct adjustment of the switches, the bike will ride like new again, delighting its owner with excellent speed and transmission on any part of the route.

The details of any mobile mechanisms, during their service, have the properties of being erased and becoming unusable for work. On a bicycle, these parts include: front, rear sprockets (cassette), bicycle chain and other mechanisms. Each unit in any technique requires proper care, this makes the parts work out their resource and contributes to reliability and long service.

But still, how not to care for the bicycle chain, there comes a time when it starts to slip, time and load gives its own. In such cases, do not pull to replace the chain, as this could damage the sprockets on the cassette and pedals.

First of all, make sure that the front and rear derailleur settings are correct. First of all, you need to pay attention to the hit of the chain on the sprockets and whether to lie between them. If the bike is not fast and has no derailleurs, then the first cause of chain slippage is loosening. In this case, it is necessary to tighten it.

If the switches are set correctly, and the circuit begins to slip under load, there are several reasons for this:

  • the chain is very stretched
  • front sprocket wear
  • wear of the sprockets on the cassette
  • or all of the above at once

Since when cycling, the chain inevitably stretches over time, the chain links no longer fit correctly on the teeth of the front and rear sprockets, and begin to wear them over time. The wear of the stars also occurs from the contamination of mechanisms with dust and dirt, so the chain must be periodically washed and lubricated. Read about how to do this in the article.

What to do if the chain starts to slip on the bike?

If, nevertheless, if your bike is already beginning to overshoot syndromes, then you need to prepare to replace the chain and sprockets. Get ready immediately for changing the chain and cassette, as the already stretched chain

could easily damage its teeth, it may be necessary to change the chainrings too, it is necessary to watch their wear.

In some cases, you can postpone the purchase of stars. It is necessary to look carefully at the teeth, as a rule, it happens that cyclists prefer to ride at several speeds, while others only use a small amount of time. After looking at the wear, try not to switch to the speed at which the maximum output, use other stars. But this is still not a long way out of the situation, it is better to replace the necessary element, and boldly ride, not forgetting to service it, clean it, lubricate it on time.

Consider a common mistake made by beginner cycling enthusiasts. chain skew due to incorrect gear selection. In this situation, not only the chain, but also the front and rear sprockets, wear out strongly. The gear change rule must be observed. For example, if the chain is on the front largest sprocket, then on the back you need to choose small. 1, 2, 3 stars.

For example, you should not drive uphill in heavy gears (large sprocket in front, small ones in the rear), since the load also strongly affects the stretching of the chain and wear of the sprockets, and besides, it is easier to change the correct gear and calmly continue driving with ease.

Check regularly that the gear derailleurs are set correctly, as they can also cause chain distortion and wear on the sprockets.