How to remove the axle of the rear wheel of a bicycle

How to Remove and Install Thru Axles | Bike Help | Ribble Cycles

Rear axle

The rear axle of a bicycle is a threaded rod rigidly fixed in dropouts, which does not transmit torque, but at the same time carries the main load when the bicycle is moving. It is usually made of steel, titanium or aluminum alloy and is an integral part of the bushing.

Depending on the type of attachment, the axles can be hollow or solid. The hollow ones are used in conjunction with eccentric braces to facilitate wheel mounting and dismounting. Such axles have greater rigidity and less weight.

Another way to fix the wheel is to fix its axle in the frame stays with special nuts. For a frame with horizontal dropouts, an axle with nuts is more suitable due to a more reliable and durable wheel attachment.

Some mountain bikes and cyclocross bikes use thru axles with a threaded end. These axles are part of the frame design and are usually supplied with it.

The thickness of the rear axle depends on the type of bike, and its length is determined by the distance between the dropouts of the frame stays. In some models of bushings, the diameter can be changed using special adapters. The following axes are usually used (the first number is the diameter, and the second is the length):

  • 10×135 mm. used in most modern bicycles;
  • 10×130 mm. mounts on road bikes;
  • 12x150mm. bike axles for downhill and free ride;
  • 10×170 mm. such axles are installed on fat bikes;
  • 10x120mm. Suitable for high-speed track bike.

On bicycles for extreme sports of the High End level, special axles of increased thickness can be used, which have increased strength.

Padding the cone

This situation is the opposite of the previous one: the flare nuts are tightened too tightly, which causes excessive friction in the hub and the wheel loses roll. In this case, adjustment of the cones is also required, and all actions are similar to those described above.

Bushing body

Typically, the hub body is the wheel hub. It has flanges on which the spokes are attached, and due to the presence of a set of sprockets on the rear wheel, the spokes have a slightly shorter length on one side. In bushings with loose bearings, the inner surface has tracks along which the balls move.

Bicycle hubs and rear wheel axle

When choosing a bike, many novice cyclists often look at the rear derailleur, frame, the presence or absence of a shock absorber. At the same time, insufficient attention is paid to such an important component as the wheel hub.

Disassembly and maintenance of the rear hub

The rear wheel mechanism of a bicycle requires periodic maintenance and repair, and often inexperienced cyclists have problems disassembling and assembling it. However, this is a fairly simple operation, and after a little practice it becomes more difficult. The main thing is to choose the right tool and be patient. You should also be very careful, otherwise a small part or ball rolling somewhere can cause serious problems, and it will be impossible to assemble the mechanism correctly. If you are not sure of your actions, then you can even record the process on video, so that during reassembly it is clear where to install this or that element.

All conventional bushings are designed to be disassembled from the side opposite to the sprockets, that is, to the left. Consider the sequence of actions when disassembling a product on bulk bearings, since this design is the most common:

  • First you need to unscrew the nuts and disconnect the wheel from the frame. With eccentric clamps, you don’t even need tools. After the wheel is removed, you can start disassembling.
  • Now you need to remove the sprockets, otherwise it will be impossible to get full access to the inside of the bushing. If the wheel has a cassette, then you will need a tool called a whip and a puller. The whip is thrown over the large sprocket and holds it, and the puller is inserted into the cassette and rotated counterclockwise. After dismantling the cassette, you need to remove the brake disc from the left side of the hub (if disc brakes are installed).
  • To disassemble the ratchet wheel, you need a puller and a wrench with good leverage. You have to put in quite a lot of effort, because the ratchet twisted all the time you were cycling. The ratchet also needs to be unscrewed counterclockwise.
  • For further work, you need two keys. A special cone wrench has a small thickness, it holds the bushing cone, and with the second wrench you need to unlock the left nut that fixes this cone. The unlocked nut can be unscrewed, and now the rear axle of the bicycle can be easily removed from the hub, giving access to the bearings and the inner surface of the wheel hub.
  • The balls can be covered with metal anthers. Both must be carefully removed and folded into some kind of box. That’s all, the sleeve is disassembled, now you can start maintenance and repair.

The scheme for disassembling the sleeve on industrial bearings is even simpler, a certain difficulty is only removing the cassettes with balls, since they are pressed quite tightly into the hub. The cartridge will have to be removed with a special tool or knocked out with hammer blows along the axis, but this must be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the flange.

Sometimes you have to disassemble the drum itself, on which the cassette with stars is attached. In this case, a special slotted puller is required. But such a need arises extremely rarely, and in this case it is still better to contact the workshop.

Maintenance of the rear bushings consists of removing old grease, cleaning parts from dirt, checking their integrity and applying new grease. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse not only the bearings and the inner surface of the hub, but also the threads on the nuts and axles, since sand is often packed into it. When twisted, it collects on the surface of the cone, can cause crunching and even damage to the balls. For this, gasoline, thinner or special detergents are usually used. After cleaning, apply grease to all moving parts.

The assembly of the bushing is carried out in the reverse order. If the details are not lost, then everything will go without any difficulty.

When installing a wheel in the dropouts, you should pay attention to one important point: the axle with the hub should fit into them quite tightly. If a gap develops, insert the spacer washers. Otherwise, the feathers will contract and bend when the wheel is locked, which can lead to permanent stresses in the feathers and, ultimately, to the destruction of the structure.

Classification of bushings

There are two types of bushings. front and rear. The front is simpler and less stressed than the rear, especially if a fork with a shock absorber is installed on the bike. The rear hub is used to transmit torque from the pedals to the rear wheel, the dynamic characteristics of the bike depend on it, so further we will talk about it.

Bicycle hubs vary in material and interior design. They usually consist of an axle, a hub with flanges to which the spokes are attached, and bearings. There are the following types of rear wheel hubs:

  • Ratchet, in which a set of sprockets is combined with a ratchet mechanism into a single whole. Such hubs are often used on bicycles in the lower price segment.
  • Cassette, in which a set of rear sprockets is installed on a special drum using a spline connection.
  • Planetary with an internal gear change, in which the gears are located inside the housing of the hub itself. They are heavy and expensive, but reliable and require little or no maintenance.

The first two types are most widespread, and planetary ones remain rather exotic, although they are often used in city bikes.

Ratchet hubs are cheaper, but less reliable and are considered outdated, so it is better to choose the cassette option.

Types of bicycle hubs and their components

Bearings

An important factor to look for when choosing a hub is the type of bearings installed in them. Bulk ball bearings remain the most common type, but industrial bearings in cartridges are more reliable.

In the first case, tapered nuts are attached to the axis of the bicycle, which press the balls to the cups, which are structurally part of the housing of the hub itself. Units with such bearings are easy to maintain and repair, but they quickly become clogged.

In products with industrial bearings, the balls in the cassette are pressed directly into the hub. They are great for a sports bike as they have more efficiency and better protection from dirt. Another advantage of bushings on industrial bearings is that they do not require adjustment of the axial clearance and frequent lubrication, but they are rather difficult to disassemble.

How to remove a ratchet from a bicycle wheel?

In order to adjust the bearings on the rear hub, in order to replace a worn sprocket, and sometimes to replace a broken spokes in the rear wheel, it is necessary to remove the cassette with sprockets. This is not so difficult to do. By and large, the algorithm of actions is the same as with a separate asterisk.

We remove the asterisk ourselves

Turn the bike over and place it on the handlebar and saddle.

First of all, we remove the wheel by unscrewing the fastening nuts.

Children’s bicycles are usually repaired, as a rule, by dads, and they have enough strength to fix the largest sprocket with a whip and put a wrench on the puller to unscrew the spline nut. Everything is unscrewed towards the idling wheel and at the same time a slight crunching sound is heard, do not be alarmed, this is due to the shape of a small asterisk.

By unscrewing the nut, remove the cassette, taking into account that there may be intermediate washers between the small sprockets, instead of gaskets. To replace the sprocket you need a set of tools.

When disassembling this entire structure, carefully fold all the parts so that they lie in the sequence in which you removed them, otherwise difficulties will arise during assembly.

After removing all the sprockets and the cassette, the protective plastic ring is removed last. Inspect all removed parts carefully, replace worn ones, clean and lubricate so that after assembly the assembly runs for a long time.

The assembly of the sprocket cassette is carried out in the reverse order. The chain is put on, the rear wheel is twisted, the device turns over and it is again ready to surf the roads bringing joy and pleasure from the movement.

READ  Change the bearings on the rear wheel of the bike

Bicycle rear sprocket

A bicycle is a means of transportation, driven by the physical strength of a person. This is how you can describe the essence in technical words. In fact, he is a friend from childhood. As soon as we start growing up and understand something, we drag our parents to the place where we can choose a bike and shout: “Buy it !!”, in the end we proudly roll the novelty home, while we still don’t suspect that any equipment needs care and that it might break. Even an old bike can still serve.

The most common question about servicing the bike and the rear hub (excluding the device, ratchet and sprockets) is “How to remove the sprocket from the rear wheel of a speed bike?”

It often happens that the hub needs lubrication or the rear wheel sprockets need to be replaced. The repair process is easier if the cassette is removed. Thus, things will go faster and more accurately.

How to remove the rear sprocket?

  • puller;
  • whip;
  • key of the right size.

First of all, remove the wheel. Turn the bike upside down with the wheels and unscrew the nut on the axle with a wrench. In some cases, for example, a sports bike or mountain bike, you need an eccentric clamp. Simple models do not require a special approach and tool.

The rear sprockets are attached to the ratchet with a special nut (slotted). This very nut must be unscrewed with a puller and a wrench. The latter must be appropriate in size. Unscrew the nut clockwise and use the whip. Requires to insert a puller into the spline nut in the rear sprocket of the bike.

We carefully put the whip on a large diameter sprocket. Holding the cassette, we rotate the puller with the key. This requires some effort. After unscrewing the nut, remove the cassette. The rear sprockets of the bike can be positioned independently of each other on the ratchet. It is required to remove all parts, small sprockets, washers, carefully and carefully. This is to avoid confusion of elements. Then the cassette and plastic ring are removed. After completing the replacement of worn parts, all components, including the sprockets, are assembled in order.

The nut is tightened with a wrench and with the application of maximum efforts, but the main thing is not to overdo it and tighten the bushing cone not too much.

Sleeve

Disassembly and diagnostics of this part is carried out after separation of the cassette. It is best to start the process on the left side. Next, the boot, locknut and cone are removed. Then you can find washers, the number of which depends on the type of bike.

It is very important to remember exactly the location and order of finding all the parts. Now the stage begins in which the cone is gently unwound. If the grease is in poor condition, it is necessary to remove the bearings and inspect them. The presence of rust, dirt and other troubles indicates the replacement of parts.

With this option, good parts need to be put in place before lubrication. With a careful approach to work, the bike will function properly and accurately. Removing the bushing and other parts is not difficult, but it is important to remember the order in which they are located.

When to replace the rear bicycle sprocket

An inexperienced user may confuse a sprocket and a ratchet, but the difference is that the cassette stars have a minimum diameter of 11T, while the ratchet has a minimum diameter of 14T. To replace the rear sprockets of the bike, you must remove the entire cassette completely.

The ratchet of the rear wheel of the bicycle has several driven stars, which are connected by a freewheel hub. The ratchet is considered not a very durable and reliable component; axle breakdowns often occur due to imperfections in the design. The ratchet can be removed for repairs in the same way as the cassette.

The efficiency and functionality of the bike depends on the rear wheel hub. The part has several components. If the stroke is heavy, then there is probably a problem and the cone is damaged. To eliminate malfunctions, unscrew the nuts with a wrench and remove the wheel.

When regularly inspecting the technical condition of the transport, pay attention to the bushing taper, clean and lubricate parts and bearings. This detail is very important, it organizes the transmission of the transmission to the wheel from the pedals, as well as several other important tasks.

Varieties of bicycle cassettes

A set of rear sprockets on a bicycle is called a cassette. Cassettes are available in 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 speeds. The cassette with 6 speeds is placed on children’s bicycles, 7 speed, on budget, walking bicycles. Cassette with 8 sprockets, matches the 24 speed transmissions found on mid-range bikes, 9-12 speeds on mountain and racing, sports bikes.

The large number of stars allows you to adjust the gear ratio for more comfortable pedaling, the smaller the chainring, the greater the rider’s speed. If the switch is set to a large star, then you can easily climb the hill.

A set of 6-7 sprockets is in the form of a ratchet, which is screwed onto the bushing and cassettes, which is put on the bushing drum and fixed with a nut. I change the cassette when obvious tooth wear is visible and the chain slips.

The text was prepared by Roman Borisov.
Posted May 30, 2020.
Sources: uznayvse.ru, yvelo.ru, mighty-sport.ru.
Headings: Microrecords, Repair and maintenance.

  • Tags:
  • bike
  • sleeve

Removing the front wheel with rim brakes

Place the bike upside down on the saddle and handlebars before removing the wheel. Beforehand, all accessories. mirrors, headlights, bell, decorative elements. should be removed so as not to interfere with work and so as not to damage them. It is advisable to put a soft cloth under the sensitive shifters to avoid damaging them under the weight of the bike.

Briefly, the front wheel is removed according to the scheme:

  • Release the rim brakes.
  • Loosen the attachment to the dropouts.
  • Carefully remove the axle from the legs.

It is necessary to release the brakes in order to easily pull out the wheel and not damage the system. To do this, squeeze the connecting bow and unscrew its fastening with a hex wrench. The brakes are now free. An alternative option is to remove the pads from the brake mechanism, however, after assembling the wheel, they will have to be adjusted again.

This is how the v-brakes are released

remove, axle, rear, wheel, bicycle

Wheel fastening on a bicycle is presented in two versions. nuts for 15 and an eccentric. To remove the axle from the dropouts on the nuts, you will need two keys. one will act as a worker, and the other as a retainer. Unscrew one nut counterclockwise while holding the opposite.

What can you use? Traditional open-end or spanner wrenches. The second option is even more convenient and easier to grab the nut. Adjustable wrenches with wide lips are not recommended for work, as they can “eat” the corners of the nuts.

With an eccentric, it is much easier. loosen the bolt and raise the locking lever. If the spring is not weak enough and the lever does not rise fully, loosen the bolt harder. Actually, removing a wheel at home is as easy as shelling pears.

In this section, the topic of removal with V-brakes was touched upon. With discs it is even easier, and even more so with singlespeeds with a kick drum on the rear hub. There is one limitation for a disc brake system with hydraulics. do not keep the bike upside down for too long, as the tubes become airy. That is, the wheel was removed and the bike was returned to its normal state for the time of repair or other manipulations.

What is the difference between a ratchet and a cassette

Ratchet is a ratchet mechanism with a threaded or slotted mounting on the sleeve. The ratchet is outside and the sprockets are completely installed. This means that the ratchet is put “on time”. when, say, small sprockets are worn out, it will not work to replace only the worn part. everything changes at once.

This type of knot was widespread in the last century, and now it can be found on a budget high-speed bike. Some of the disadvantages of the ratchet include:

  • a small number of stars. from 5 to 7 speeds;
  • low running resource;
  • for more hardy products, the cost will be many times higher.

Although, of course, repair, or rather, non-maintainability, is the main drawback. Most ratchets are threaded. An unpleasant feature of this mount is jamming. It looks like this: after a certain mileage, it will twist on the bushing so that it will be problematic to disassemble it later.

Now about the cassettes. In fact, this is the same ratchet, only the ratchet is hidden inside the drum. It is installed only on splines, which is why it is sometimes problematic to switch from the ratchet (if that rare spline copy was not standing). In comparison with its “brothers”, the cassette drum mechanism has a number of advantages:

  • more stars. from 9 to 11 on modern models;
  • the system weighs less, which means the bike as a whole, too;
  • rolling resistance is noticeably less than that of a ratchet;
  • the cassette is easier to remove;
  • more mileage;
  • you can change the asterisks individually.

The last plus, of course, is the most significant, and we will emphasize it once again: changing the system completely or only one or two stars is a huge difference! Well, there is only one drawback. the initial cost is higher. However, this again negates the very advantage. the ability to repair, and not buy a new one. Should you opt for a cassette tape? Definitely yes!

What types are cassettes divided into

It is very interesting to know how the stars are fastened on the drum and to each other. The modern bike cassette is available in several versions. Each of them is good in its own way. Meet:

  • spacer,
  • spiders,
  • solid milled,
  • blocky.

Spacer cassettes are sprockets fastened with separate splines to the drum. For separation, plastic spacers are inserted between them. Parts have a strictly specified thickness so that the distances in the cassette between its elements are kept constant. The advantage of such a system is that they can be disassembled “to zero.” The disadvantage, however, for aluminum drums is a high torsional load, because from each star the force is transferred to the drum. On stronger steel counterparts, this problem is not observed. In a spider-type connection, all the stars are put on a single spline. Legs are made in the form of ladders for each asterisk. Power loads are reduced, so this type of cassette should be chosen for aluminum drums. Also, compared to spacers, these systems are lighter.

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On a spider, you can also change only one asterisk.

On solid milled cassettes, the entire unit is made as one piece. It is attached to the lower star, which is the slot for the drum. Among the analogues, this is the most expensive option:

  • the simplest device due to the absence of additional connections;
  • ease;
  • high strength;
  • durability.

Solid Milled Transmission Cell

What about the disadvantages? Firstly, the price will pay off only for an expensive mountain bike. And secondly, the design is very much like a ratchet. And although durability and strength were declared, no one canceled partial wear. And it is impossible to change one or two stars.

The blocky model is represented by several spiders with two or three stars on each. Small stars are inserted into the spline of the drum by themselves. Since they are more likely to wear out with the bike, they can be changed separately altogether. Other components on the blocks change immediately in pairs.

Disassembled Shimano Block Cassette

The difference between a ratchet and a cassette

Do not confuse a bicycle ratchet with a cassette, as they are not interchangeable. Currently, the former can only be found on old and very cheap bicycles. On modern bicycles, a more advanced part is used, such as a cassette.

The main drawback of the ratchet is its incompatibility with the 15 mm diameter hollow shaft of the new QR15 standard. Loose loading from off-center sprockets can cause local bending on the hollow axis.

In a ratchet, the smallest sprocket is not smaller than with 14 teeth, and its more modern modification. the cassette. can have even smaller sprockets, with 11 or 12 teeth

On the inside of the ratchet there are ratchet pawls, on top of it an external bushing with sprockets is installed. The role of the nut holding these two parts is played by the cone, which is the working surface for the ball bearing. Inside there are two bulk bearings, each of which is assembled from balls of the same size.

The hidden part of the ratchet. the inner sleeve. is screwed onto the threaded part of the rear wheel, and to remove it, you need a special puller.

Internal ratchet bushing

How to disassemble the rear axle of a bicycle

Puller and key

Removing a long-established ratchet requires considerable effort. It can get stuck and rusty. Special tools must be available, which are a puller and a large adjustable wrench or wrench.

The puller is a slotted wrench for disassembling or installing the ratchet mechanism. It is unscrewed counterclockwise using a wrench or adjustable wrench. Ratchet and cassette tools are similar but completely incompatible, do not confuse them.

The rear wheel is removed first. If the ratchet has not been removed for a long time and it is difficult to remove it with a puller, then it is better to use WD-40 grease. It is better to lubricate the threads from the inside, under the stars, and leave for several hours.

  • Further, the fasteners on the axle are unscrewed. Prepare a rag in advance to wipe off grease from the axle and not get dirty when performing repairs.
  • The puller is put on the nut. Secure it with a nut, if it dangles, and if it does not climb, hammer in.
  • It is better to place the wheel vertically and support it against the wall. It is not recommended to remove the tire, so as not to spoil the rim, and the rubber will help with its retention.
  • With an adjustable or wrench, the puller is unscrewed with small jerks. It is better to hold the key vertically and press on it from above. Spin counterclockwise.
  • We take out the puller and the system itself from the sleeve.
  • When removing, there may be a problem in the lack of effort to unscrew the stuck mechanism. This problem is solved by lengthening the tool. This can be done with a small tube. Take two bolts 6–8 cm in size and select the nuts for them. One is inserted into the hole in the puller, and the other into the hole in the handle of the adjustable wrench. Clamp with nuts. Insert a tube between the bolts. It turns out a lever with which it is much easier to rip off a stuck device.

    How to disassemble the ratchet?

    To repair the ratchet with your own hands, you need a hammer and center punch. Instead of a punch, you will need a large nail or self-tapping screw. It is better to disassemble the device on a wheel so that you can hold it.

    • The ratchet spins on the wheel. A center punch is inserted into the hole on the nut, and by turning it clockwise with a hammer, the mechanism is disassembled.
    • The stars are removed with a puller and a key. There are balls inside under the nut. There is also a second ball track on the wheel.
    • To prevent the balls from scattering, you must put a rag or box.
    • The smallest asterisk is unscrewed counterclockwise. The rest are just filming.

    Now you need to look at the condition of the mechanism, pawls and lubrication. Dogs wear out most often. They can be replaced. A special repair kit made of dogs and rings is produced. Be sure to wash the ball bearings. If the balls are black and there are frayed metal particles, then the bearings have broken. Each one needs to be examined. If there are dents on them, then it is recommended to replace them.

    Next, we collect all the parts in reverse order. The flare nut must be tightened with force, and the play for the sprockets relative to the wheel should be adjusted with inlaid, thin rings.

    Thus, it is much cheaper to repair the mechanism with your own hands and does not take much time and effort. And it is necessary to perform such actions regularly so that cycling is pleasant and safe.

    Removing the front wheel with rim brakes

    Place the bike upside down on the saddle and handlebars before removing the wheel. Beforehand, all accessories. mirrors, headlights, bell, decorative elements. should be removed so as not to interfere with work and so as not to damage them. It is advisable to put a soft cloth under the sensitive shifters to avoid damaging them under the weight of the bike.

    Briefly, the front wheel is removed according to the scheme:

    • Release the rim brakes.
    • Loosen the attachment to the dropouts.
    • Carefully remove the axle from the legs.

    It is necessary to release the brakes in order to easily pull out the wheel and not damage the system. To do this, squeeze the connecting bow and unscrew its fastening with a hex wrench. The brakes are now free. An alternative option is to remove the pads from the brake mechanism, however, after assembling the wheel, they will have to be adjusted again.

    Wheel fastening on a bicycle is presented in two versions. nuts for 15 and an eccentric. To remove the axle from the dropouts on the nuts, you will need two keys. one will act as a worker, and the other as a retainer. Unscrew one nut counterclockwise while holding the opposite.

    Bike Maintenance: How to Remove a Rear Wheel with a Thru Axle

    What can you use? Traditional open-end or spanner wrenches. The second option is even more convenient and easier to grab the nut. Adjustable wrenches with wide lips are not recommended for work, as they can “eat” the corners of the nuts.

    With an eccentric, it is much easier. loosen the bolt and raise the locking lever. If the spring is not weak enough and the lever does not rise fully, loosen the bolt harder. Actually, removing a wheel at home is as easy as shelling pears.

    In this section, the topic of removal with V-brakes was touched upon. With discs it is even easier, and even more so with singlespeeds with a kick drum on the rear hub. There is one limitation for a disc brake system with hydraulics. do not keep the bike upside down for too long, as the tubes become airy. That is, the wheel was removed and the bike was returned to its normal state for the time of repair or other manipulations.

    How to remove and change a wheel on a bicycle

    Bicycle wheels are mounted on the frame: front. on the dropouts of the fork, the rear. on the dropouts of the feathers. Repair, cleaning and lubrication may require removal. There is no need to roll the bike to the service for this occasion, since everyone can remove the wheel from the bike right at home.

    Why do you need to dismantle the wheels? As a rule, these are bulkheads of bushings, repair of spokes and rims, cleaning a bicycle and the notorious replacement of tires.

    Removing and installing tires

    A tire breakdown on the move is an unpleasant phenomenon that can be found anywhere. Can even lower at home. You can’t ride, you have to change the camera, tire or all together. For a solution to the problem, you can contact the service, but in addition to money for a new consumable, they will also take on work. And why spend extra money and strain the master, when all the manipulations for removing and installing tires can be done independently? Let’s take a look at how to disassemble a bicycle wheel and assemble a tire. You will also have to remove the tires and put them back on when straightening the rim or replacing the spokes.

    For work, you will need special plastic assemblies or two small shoe spoons. It is undesirable to use screwdrivers, as they can damage the rim.

    • Fully deflate the tire (if removed to repair the rim, not replace).
    • On the opposite side to the nipple, pry off the bead of the tire with assemblies and fasten them to the spokes. The distance between the blades is at least 20 cm. With the third assembly hook up the bead in the middle and pull it out of the rim.
    • Remove the assemblies and pull the tire off the wheel. If there are only two blades, we fix one, the other is carried along the board, pulling it out.
    • Pull the nipple out of the bore. On some models, it can be attached with an additional nut, then we twist it.

    Now, when there is a new kit or the wheel is repaired, you need to put the tire back on, or fence:

    • Pump up the chamber to 0.5 atm so that it takes a rounded shape and does not break.
    • Insert the nipple into the hole, the chamber on the surface of the rim. It is important that it fits exactly the size of the wheel.
    • Compress the tire beads and insert from the nipple side.
    • Sequentially distribute the edges around the entire circumference with your hands.
    • It will take some effort on the opposite side to push the bead down.
    • Inflate the tire to the correct pressure and put the wheel on the bike.
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    It’s so easy to bend the wheel with your own hands.

    How to correctly install the wheel and tighten the mount

    The installation process in its rightful place is strictly opposite to dismantling:

    • Taking into account the direction of rotation “forward”, insert the axle into the dropouts.
    • Adjust position (for rear).
    • Tighten nuts or eccentric.

    On a bicycle, wheels are put on only with tires, otherwise it will not work to put the tires on the rims. “Forward” on an inverted bike. backward, look at the top. Arrow, feet and other pointers should point in this direction.

    On rear dropouts, the axle position relative to the chainring may fluctuate, and its distance affects chain tension. The optimal position is the one recommended by the manufacturer, “all the way”. It should be noted that the dropout adjustment of the rear wheel is valid for models with one gear and bicycles with planetary gear.

    Tighten the nuts. Sometimes the mounts are equipped with additional washers-stoppers against axle rotation. If the manufacturer foresees this, we must put them. Next, the nuts on both sides are thrown by hand. Again we take two keys: on one side the nut is fixed, on the other side it is screwed. Then we go to the other side and tighten the mount all the way. The technical data sheet for the bike indicates the tightening torques for the fasteners. Following these guidelines will ensure uniform force distribution and optimal geometric integrity.

    • Set axle to dropouts.
    • Turn the bolt clockwise.
    • Press the lever and fix the eccentric.

    The locking lever should go with some effort and be free to drop to the end. If it folds too easily, you need to tighten the bolt, does not fall. loosen.

    The wheel removal procedure is the first step to fixing rim defects and replacing tires on a bicycle. Changing tires or temporarily removing them with your own hands is just as easy, just take a little space and time.

    Boost thru-axle

    Recently introduced to the market, a standard sharpened exclusively for fashionable enduro. Hubs are only available in 15110mm and 12148mm front and rear wheel sizes. As usual in our industry, the rear hub came out with a new line of connecting rods, for a more correct chainline, and the addition of 10mm on the front hub allowed us to make the stiffness of 27.5 wheels are the same as the 26. In any case, this is what the manufacturers assure. On the bushings themselves, the distance between the flanges has increased, and not the thickness of the side spacers.

    Standards: Types of quick-release axles for MTB wheels

    The bushings on the eccentrics allow you to quickly remove the wheels and not get worn out with the necessary tools at hand. And if you think that eccentrics are flimsy and not worth your attention, then today we will dissuade you!

    How to sort out the front bushing on bulk bearings

    If you notice any extraneous sounds from your bushing or a noticeably deteriorated roll, or maybe a slight backlash, this means it’s time to sort out the bushing.

    To begin with, let’s figure out the device of the sleeve. Above is a schematic drawing of the main components, among them:

    • Axis. The part that attaches the wheel to the frames and around which it rotates;
    • Cone. By tightening the cones, you eliminate wheel play;
    • Sleeve. The body of the sleeve itself with bearing cups inside;
    • Bearings. Balls that allow the axle to rotate inside the hub;
    • Lock-nut. Prevents the cones from spinning.

    The sleeve can also contain various spacer washers and anthers.

    To disassemble the bushing you will need:

    • Open-end wrenches of a suitable size (one of them must be thin enough to fit on the taper);
    • Bearing grease;
    • Rags or unnecessary cloth to remove dirt.

    QR axis

    QR or Quick-release (from the English. Quick release). the simplest eccentric, which can be found on budget bicycles. These eccentrics are only used on bicycles with split dropouts. Due to the small diameter of the axle of 9mm and 10mm, respectively, for the front and rear wheels and the diameter of the eccentric itself 5mm, their rigidity is appropriate, but for normal riding this is not critical. Such an eccentric fulfills its purpose 100% and allows you to quickly remove and install wheels without problems. Found only in 100mm and 135mm sizes for the front and rear wheels, respectively.

    Bicycle axle

    A bicycle hub is a very important part of a bicycle wheel, which allows the wheel to rotate freely around its axis. The quality of the hub determines the speed of the bike and, accordingly, the speed characteristics. In addition, the better the hub, the less the cyclist will expend energy for the same kilometer of the traveled distance. In this article we will look at the design of the front hub and the types of existing front hubs.

    The front hub is subject to noticeably less stress than the rear, allowing for a more miniaturized design. Additional equipment is not provided, except for the disc brake rotor (depending on the model). Bushings differ in materials and manufacturing technologies, device and purpose.

    Bicycle axles are integral parts of a bicycle and are classified as components that are subject to constant stress. That is why special attention must be paid to their condition. Depending on the type of bike and the conditions of its use, they come in various sizes and differ in their design features. A high level of strength has been achieved thanks to the metal from which they are made, often steel.

    The bicycle axle is an integral part of the hub and, together with it, is responsible for the level of load carried by the wheel and the bicycle, in general, for the ease of movement and immediate reliability of your favorite vehicle. Only correctly selected and, in turn, adjusted axles can guarantee a safe and comfortable ride.

    The rear wheel spare part, in structure, is somewhat different from the front one and is more complex, due to the mounting on the rear hub of the freewheel mechanism and the block of sprockets. In turn, the rear axle withstands a high load force.

    Mountain bike axle repair

    Of course, there are situations when something in the axle breaks. Fortunately, such situations are not desperate. If something breaks, and you still do not understand which side to turn the necessary nut and where to put the cones, the Internet will help you. And we, in turn, will help you navigate the difficult repair business.

    What should be considered when repairing? First of all, you need to understand that everything related to the rear bicycle axle is a very delicate matter, which means that you need to approach it carefully so as not to make it worse.

    It is important not to lose a single detail, even a small one. Even if you lose a small nut or cone, it will be difficult for you to complete the axle repair without them. The first step is to remove the rear axle of the bike hub, as well as the sprocket block. Of course, when removing it, it is better to put the bike on the side where this block is not. After you remove the rear sprocket block, you will need to remove the bearing ring as well. Everything should be in order, you can see for yourself when, after disassembly and removal, a bunch of small details appear in front of you. Therefore, it is extremely important that every little thing must have its place.

    DIY bike repair: rear hub

    Of course, to care for your bike, you need to understand how it works. Of course, in the structure of the iron horse there are many complex and incomprehensible at first glance, but this is not a reason to close our eyes to this. You need to look at the bike from different angles. Today we will not talk about the whole bike in general, but we will focus on what is in the area of ​​the rear wheel of the bike, in particular, on the axle.

    The rear axle of the wheel is stationary and is located in a special movable hub of the same wheel. It is precisely such bushings that provide the movement of the wheel, and they do this due to the fixed axis. In order to better understand where the rear axle is, note that it is next to it that the spokes are already attached. If something happens to the cones, bushings or the rear axle, the entire rear wheel mechanism will have to be disassembled and repaired. Therefore, it is extremely important to ensure that everything connected to the rear axle remains intact and safe.

    Front axle Thru-axle

    This eccentric is inserted into a closed dropout, which prevents the wheel from falling out while the eccentric is closed. Although use on a frame with split dropouts is not recommended, unlike a fork you will be able to physically mount such a wheel to the frame.