How to remove play on bicycle pedals

Removing the fork legs.

We unscrew the nuts or hexagons from the bottom, with a 10 wrench, then we will see the threaded ends from which we unscrewed the nuts, in order for the legs to come off, most likely it will not be necessary to hit them hard with a hammer. In order not to knock off the thread, it is necessary to screw the nuts a little again and knock out the pants with light blows.

Now you need to remove the oil seals that prevent dirt from entering the fork. To do this, you need a small screwdriver, pick and remove them.

Next, you need to remove those parts that directly break the fork and create a loofah. bosses or they are also called guides. The guides have latches, so we pull them out by turning them a little, to release the latch of the retainer from the groove in the pants.

If there is a play in the front fork of the bicycle ➔ elimination, repair

Today we’re going to talk about how to eliminate play in a sports bike suspension fork. This scheme is suitable for all brands of popular and not so popular bicycle suspension forks such as RST (OMEGA, Blaze, GILA, Capa), SUNTOUR (XCR, XCM, XCT), Rock Shox, zoom and others. Inexpensive forks are arranged, as a rule, in a similar design, so the instructions for bulkhead and elimination of backlash can be applied to almost any model. Read what bicycle forks are, their types and types.

Prevention and elimination.

For convenience, I would recommend removing the fork completely, but some do it on bicycles as well. It should not be difficult for you to remove the fork from the bike, unscrew a couple of bolts, remove the handlebars and, if necessary, brakes or a cable.

The cause or what causes the backlash of the mountain bike front fork?

In the design of a bicycle fork, namely in the legs, a pair of rails are installed, which are made of plastic, they are called bosses. Due to their wear and tear, this phenomenon occurs.

How to determine if there is a backlash?

Everything is very simple, just press the front brake and move the bike back and forth, if there is a play, then you will definitely feel it. For inexpensive forks, backlash is not uncommon, it manifests itself very quickly. Minimum backlash is allowed. Over time, the backlash will increase and it is worth thinking about the bulkhead and finalizing the fork.

Changing Bike Pedals. Stuck Pedal

Working with guides.

Let’s move on to the most important thing. It is necessary to wrap tape or electrical tape on the guides. How many turns you need to wind depends on the wear. First, try making a couple of loops and inserting the guides into your pants. Where the latches are not wound, or cut out where necessary. If they got up tight, then maybe that’s enough. Remember how easily they were extracted from you. Having made such a manipulation with both bashings, you can estimate putting on your pants on the legs of the forks and shake them. If there is backlash again, then remove it again and add a couple more with a skein on the plastic guides and reassemble until we achieve the desired effect.

Before assembling the fork, it is imperative to clean it of old dirt and grease, rinse the oil seals (anthers) and other parts. It is also advisable to lubricate the rails, fork legs.

Interesting video on how to eliminate play on the SR Suntour XCT fork.

In principle, in such a simple way, you can eliminate play on a bicycle fork, it does not take much time. How long such a repair will last depends on how much and on what roads you ride. From time to time, with the appearance of a backlash again, you will already know how to eliminate it, at the same time you will go over and anoint the plug, which will give, though not for long, but a positive effect. It’s still cheaper than buying a new fork if you are already buying a good quality high-end fork. But even with such forks, you will not bypass MOT, but the resource will be an order of magnitude higher.

Adjusting the bushings or how to overcome the “backlash

When there are already many kilometers behind, then any technique needs maintenance and adjustment.

You are already accustomed to the sounds that your bike makes when riding, but if you take it by the frame and again abruptly lower it to the ground, but you hear not only the usual tinkling of the chain, but also a dull thumping is not clear from where, then it’s time to check the bike for backlash! It is not at all difficult to detect backlash. It can appear in the steering column, bottom bracket or wheel hubs. With one hand we will hold the bike by the frame, and with the other hand we will try to swing the wheel from the side.

If the wheel rim wiggles in the frame or fork from side to side and there is a tapping noise in the hub, then the cones need to be adjusted. Most bicycles have loose bearings. This means that there is a track in the sleeve, into which balls are poured and pressed by a cone. The compression of these cones will just need to be adjusted.

To adjust the cones, it is recommended to stock up on special adjusting keys. They differ from ordinary keys in their thickness.

Adjustment of the front and rear wheels is carried out in the same way (the front is a little easier to adjust due to the lack of a cassette with stars). First you need to remove the wheel from the bike.

Open the eccentric lever and loosen the nut on the opposite side.

Then completely pull the eccentric clamp out of the sleeve. The main thing here is not to lose the small springs that make it easier to install the wheel in the frame.

Now you need to remove the rubber anthers from the bushing (from the front, we remove both anthers at once, and from the back the one on the left) Do this carefully so that the anthers remain intact.

If the boot sits tightly, then you can pry it off with a thin, not pointed object.

Now take the keys and open the cone. To do this, rotate the lock nut counterclockwise, holding the cone with the second wrench. Start with the cone located on the left in the direction of travel (this does not apply to the front rim brake hub, as it is symmetrical).

When the locknut is turned out almost to the end, we unscrew the cone after it.

Now we push the axle to the right side of the hub so that there is access to the right cone and locknut (in the case of the front wheel, this is not required, since the cones on both sides can be adjusted simply by removing the anthers).

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It is necessary to counter the right cone just in case. After all, it is possible that backlashes appeared precisely because of this cone. To do this, holding the cone with one key, turn the lock nut clockwise with the second key.

Pull the left cone and locknut back to the bushing by hand. Now let’s use one little trick. We take an eccentric with a nut, but without springs, and insert it into the bushing so that the eccentric lever is on the side of the cassette.

Then we pull the wheel to the frame as shown in the photo and begin to tighten the cone with a wrench, immediately checking how the wheel is spinning. When the wheel rotates freely and without play, we begin to tighten the locknut, again holding the cone from rotation.

With this method of adjustment, it is important not to apply excessive force, otherwise there is a risk of spoiling the eccentric. But on the other hand, this way you can adjust the cones even alone, being away from home and workshop.

If, after adjustment, the bearings are overtightened and the wheel moves in jerks, then this means that the cone should be loosened by loosening the locknut again and unscrewing the cone by half a turn.

How To Remove Bicycle Pedals. The Easy Way

Achieve smooth rotation and after tuning, remember to counter the taper!

Now we put the wheel in place, not forgetting to install the rubber boots and give the eccentric its usual position. when the lever is to the left of the bike. And the most important thing is the springs! If they are still not lost, install them before tightening the eccentric. Now your bike will once again delight you with quiet operation and good handling.

Rear wheel play on a bicycle. Velobaggio

Often, in order to just ride a bike, there is no need to know exactly how to make the spokes of the wheel and how many inches it has, how to change the sprockets and what parts the bicycle fork consists of, as well as in which places the play is especially dangerous. Most bike owners only need to know how to change or inflate a tire and hang a loose chain on sprockets.

However, if a person is going to know a little more about his iron horse, or is even going to assemble his own bicycle on his own, he must have sufficient knowledge in this area in order to know well what parts it consists of, how it can be assembled and disassembled, how to produce repairing a tire, straightening a figure eight, spacing a wheel or, for example, changing an asterisk, and not just being able to pump a deflated tube.

In order for the bike to be well suited to its owner, it was comfortable to ride on it, and also in order for it to be as convenient and functional as possible, it is necessary to choose the right size. Most often, attention is paid to the size of the frame and wheels. Their size is considered to be the outer diameter, which is the outer side of the tire.

To find out the dimension, you just need to measure the diameter with a tape measure. As a rule, the value is measured in inches, so after that you will have to translate your measurements into this number system.

How to remove a wheel?

The main parts that make up a bicycle wheel are the rim, hub, spokes, tube and tire. Its dimension, for the most part, depends on the size of the rim and the length of the spokes, which practically reaches the radius of the wheel. In order to change any of the parts, it is necessary to remove the entire wheel.

Most often, changing a wheel means replacing a bicycle camera, which has a habit of bursting, or when, for example, you need to edit a figure eight, but these cases are rare. This is usually not difficult to do. First you need to set the bike upside down.

Then it just remains to remove the wheels.

Removing the front wheel is extremely easy. To do this, you need to unscrew the fasteners on which it is held. As a rule, these are either nuts, or a small lever called an eccentric, it must be rotated 180 degrees. Once these elements are unscrewed, the entire structure can be easily removed from the fork. The main thing is not to forget that before that you need to remove the rim brakes, if any.

The rear wheel is removed in much the same way as the front, except that sometimes you have to remove the chain, while it is better to switch the speed to the smallest sprocket. In this case, the stars themselves can not be removed. Then the nuts or eccentric are also unscrewed, after which you can safely remove everything else.

After everything is dismantled, you can safely remove the tires and pull out the camera. Then you need to install a new camera and after that you need to rebuild everything. When installing the rear wheel, you need to pay attention to the chain. it can twist, so in order to avoid such a problem, you should carefully put everything in its place.

At the moment when it is already necessary to assemble the bike, it is worth paying attention to the fact that there should be no backlash at the place where the bicycle wheel is attached. Everything should fit snugly, but at the same time, the nuts and eccentric should not be overtightened.

When assembling the bike, you should pay attention to the fact that both the rear and front wheels must spin forward.

After everything is assembled, you can completely pump the chamber with a pump.

  • It is best to slowly inflate the chamber with a pump when it is not yet completely covered by the tire. In this way, twisting can be avoided, which in turn eliminates the sudden rupture of the camera.

It is very important to inflate the tires correctly. If they are too soft or, conversely, too hard, they will burst very quickly. Each tire has special markings that indicate to what extent they can be inflated. There is no need to frequently inflate the cameras, especially if they are new. You can ride with these for a couple of months without thinking about the fact that they need to be pumped up.

How to determine if there is a backlash?

Everything is very simple, just press the front brake and move the bike back and forth, if there is a play, then you will definitely feel it. For inexpensive forks, backlash is not uncommon, it manifests itself very quickly. Minimum backlash is allowed. Over time, the backlash will increase and it is worth thinking about the bulkhead and finalizing the fork.

Prevention and elimination

For convenience, I would recommend removing the fork completely, but some do it on bicycles as well. It should not be difficult for you to remove the fork from the bike, unscrew a couple of bolts, remove the handlebars and, if necessary, brakes or a cable.

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How to remove play in a bicycle suspension fork

Hello, Andrey and my Orbea bike with SR Santour XCM V3 fork, which we will be repairing today.

Sadly, but over time, the parts of our beloved bicycles wear out, play appears regardless of the degree of maintenance and respect for the details, on which only the service life depends.

But signs of wear don’t always mean that parts should be replaced! Today we will try to eliminate the backlash in the fork, the brand of which is given above, using only foil and glue.

And so, let’s get started. First, let’s put the bike upside down.

Next, we need to remove everything that will interfere with the implementation of the assigned goal. The first step is to remove the wheel.

Now the next step is the brake. I recommend that you first loosen both bolts, and then unscrew them one by one.

Now nothing prevents us from going directly to the disassembly of the plug.

In order for the fork cylinders to freely “peel off” from the rods, we need to unscrew the nuts that you can see on the ends of the cylinders. These nuts hold the stem, which prevents the cylinders from flying out with the wheel during, for example, a jump. It limits the reverse travel of the fork and, in fact, is a long bolt that is fastened with the same nuts from the ends of the cylinders.

I recommend not unscrewing the nuts completely at first, but unscrew them so much that the bolt thread is completely hidden in the nut, as indicated in the following photo.

I do this so that at the moment when I knock out the bolt inward, the thread of the bolt is not damaged.

There is no need to be very strong, since the bolt sits there with a slight interference. After you feel that the bolts have gone down, you can completely unscrew the nuts and proceed to removing the fork cylinders.

It happens that the cylinders go quite tight, so you have to resort to an additional tool.

The cylinders were removed. Before you will open here such a picture smeared with oil.

Go ahead, oil seals are installed on top of the cylinders, as you can see above and in the next photo, in which I remove one of the oil seals with a thin screwdriver, and then the other.

During any disassembly, it is advisable to clean all parts, rinse with a solvent, kerosene or gasoline.

remove, play, bicycle, pedals

Such an oil seal has an additional reverse “skirt”, which should not allow the oil to come out, but the old oil seals “grow thin” over time, coarse, and wear out. One and there is a solution.

The ring itself after fitting and giving it a slightly triangular, in section, shape.

After all the fitting procedures, you will get the following picture.

Well, now we will go directly to the part, the wear of which forms the very unloved backlash. If you look at the end of the fork cylinders, you will see a detail called bushing. It forms a seal between the cylinder and the fork rod rubbing against it.

To get it out, we’ll have to grease our fingers a little. The bashing is removed by a slight rotation around its axis, which will release it from engaging in the groove made in the cylinder, and after that it should freely come out.

Let’s move on to cleaning and degreasing the bushing surfaces. I took a solvent like in the photo.

He poured a little into the cut of the bottle and began to rinse the bashing in this makeshift container.

This is how my bashings looked after thorough rinsing and wiping with a clean cloth.

Next, we need foil and glue, which I trust.

I cut out the desired piece of foil, smeared its surface and the bushing surface with a thin layer of glue, waited for about a minute and glued the surfaces, after which I cut off unnecessary pieces of foil. I ended up with the following:

This procedure will eliminate the backlash of the fork, depending on its strength, you can glue the foil in several layers until it is completely eliminated and you can also glue it on the upper part of the bushing.

The assembly procedure is completely reverse to disassembly. The only difference is that I added Azmol SHRUS-3 oils. this is a graphite grease, which I chose because of its composition, the main ingredient is worn graphite, which has high sliding properties even if there is no lubricating fluid.

It clogs into scratches and crevices, thereby improving the sliding properties of rubbing parts. I really do not recommend using lithium-containing lubricants in those places where there is aluminum, such lubricants include grease, lithol and, in my opinion, cyatim. There are also greases that contain lithium, so before using any grease, I recommend that you study its composition.

What could be the problem with these lubricants when used in aluminum parts? The answer is that under certain conditions, especially when exposed to moisture, lithium actively oxidizes aluminum. The graphite grease I used is lithium-free and fully usable.

You can use any automotive, liquid lubricant, but with it there are more problems with sealing. it flows from all the cracks, if not immediately, then gradually.

Hope this article was helpful. Ride with pleasure, sincerely Andrey!

Factors leading to wheel runout

The main reasons for the appearance of backlash can be considered:

  • significant wear of the installed sleeve;
  • Damage to radius nuts on the ball raceways.
  • Wear of special notches with a sufficiently high relief, which are applied to the locknuts at the factory and contribute to a tighter contact of this product with the radius nut. The increased adhesion of the surface of the nuts reduces the chance of loosening. Similar notches should be found on the main nuts that secure the wheel to the bike. In this situation, it is recommended to replace the nuts with new products.
  • The compression between the radius and the lock nut is relaxed. It is necessary to promptly tighten.
  • When installing a wheel on a bicycle between the locknut and the rear stays (colloquially called “pants”), there is an empty space left for beating. It is recommended to install a washer here, which will select the void.

Bearings

The rear hub of the bicycle must be equipped with bearings with a dust cover. Only in this case it will be possible to forget about their maintenance and replacement, having driven more than 10,000 km on the bike. Frankly low-quality bearings will make you endure unpleasant sounds and suffer from wheel play after the first ride in rainy weather, not to mention winter. Reliable dirt protection is represented by various seals that prevent contact of the lubricant with the external environment.

Currently, there are bulk and industrial bearings for rear bushings. The difference is that the wheel play can be eliminated by performing the usual adjustment of the bulk bearings. If there is a similar problem in the case of industrial bearings, most likely they will have to be replaced. Therefore, the rear wheel hub of the bicycle should be selected based on the type and reliability of the bearings.

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The main parameter of the rear hub axle is its length. To select the hub according to the axle length, you just need to measure the distance between the opposite outer nuts on the corresponding mountings of the bicycle frame.

We remove the backlash of the rear wheel

On the rear wheel, there is most often a bushing for a ratchet, much less often for a cassette. Therefore, we will consider the first option. The wheel is removed, disassembled, wiped, lubricated. Balls or bearings are installed. The axle is put in place with pre-screwed radius and locknuts.

The ratchet is removed. On the side where it is installed, the radius and locknut are tightened first. On the disc brake side. second. Do not forget to preset the tension of the bearings or balls.

During assembly, a situation often arises when the balls relax when tightening the second pair of nuts. An assistant (“third hand”) is required. If not, you can use a bicycle frame as such.

We put the ratchet in place. Checking how easily it rotates. We fix it in place with a clamping nut. We carry out the assembly in the same way as the front wheel.

The voids when installing the wheel in place (in the “pants”) are also selected by installing a thick washer. The need to remove the ratchet is due to the fact that without this it is impossible to service the hub. Otherwise, it is impossible to tighten the nuts located just under it with the required force and remove the radius nuts.

The installed wheel is pressed against the bicycle feather by a clamping nut (from the side of the ratchet) and is strongly pressed. Only after this operation does it become possible, without assistance, to set the correct tension of the balls and to properly clamp the radius and locknut both from the side of the brake disc and from the side of the ratchet.

After that, the wheel is fixed to the frame feather with two nuts, then it is checked for ease of rotation and the absence of backlash.

Design differences

The rear hub device of a mountain bike has some differences from the design of the undercarriage for road bikes.

Bushings for road and road bike models have oil seals. special seals designed to protect bearings from contamination. Often glands are integrated into a single piece with tapered elements.

The rear hub of the Stealth bike, as well as other common models of mountain and off-road bikes, in addition to the oil seals connected to the cones, often has rubber anthers. The presence of such elements helps to increase the protection of the running gear from dirt, all kinds of debris and dust.

Unlike the road bike category, mountain bikes are designed to ride in the most rugged terrain. Naturally, the use of additional protection for the rear hub mechanism will proportionally increase the weight of the two-wheeled vehicle and reduce the ease of movement. That is why the assembly of the rear hub of a road bike is carried out by most manufacturers without installing these elements.

Separately, it is worth considering the design features of bicycles with disc brakes. Here mechanisms are used, the flanges of which are connected to the brake discs.

Differences are also present in the methods of connecting the ratchets to the hub with the cassette mounts. Most common domestic bike models contain hubs with built-in ratchets. In contrast, the rear hub is usually a screw-on type of ratchet.

Knock or squeak when pedaling

Backlash / destruction of bearings in the carriage, often the sound is accompanied by tactile sensations on the pedals.

Solution: all modern carriages of inexpensive bicycles have a non-separable body and do not require maintenance, so the only option is to change. Replacement requires special pullers.

Higher tier bikes use outboard bearing BBs which are sold separately and are suitable for replacement.

Loose connecting rods to the carriage axle, causing a clicking sound or knock on the pedals.

remove, play, bicycle, pedals

Solution: Tighten the connecting rod bolts, use a small amount of thread lock.

Sound that occurs without the direct involvement of the chassis: pedal bearings, steering column or seatpost, saddle, etc. All of these components can produce squeaking or clicking sounds, mistaken for transmission problems.

Solution: localize the sound and eliminate it.

Eliminate the front wheel runout

Remove the front wheel. We disassemble it. Wipe and remove old grease from the raceways of balls and bushings.

We put a new grease and fix 9 balls in it (if they are in bulk) or 7 cage bearings.

Next, we screw the radius nut onto the axle, after which we install the axle into the bushing, screw the radius nut from the opposite side. Then we align the ends of the threaded axle, remaining on both sides (they should be the same).

We screw on the locknuts, expanding them with a notch to the radius nuts. Then, using the keys, we press them tightly. It is important not to forget to set the correct tension of the bearings (balls) correctly. In no case should they be squeezed, on the one hand, and such an extreme as the remaining wobble of the wheel, on the other, should not be allowed.

When assembling the front wheel, the radius and locknuts are first pressed from the side of the disc brake. Since it is inconvenient to do it from this side. The nuts are tightened with two keys. It is most convenient to use a Swedish key and a special thin open-end wrench designed to perform just such operations for these purposes. It’s easy to buy them. But get the maximum possible pull-up.

We pass to the other side of the wheel. We also set the tension of the balls and tighten the nuts. With a properly tightened locknut, the radius nut begins to rotate with it.

But sometimes situations arise when the nuts are overtightened. In this case, they need to be slightly loosened. To do this, turn the radius nut counterclockwise (use a thin open-end wrench). After setting the required tension, a control check is performed and the radius and lock nut are pressed.

remove, play, bicycle, pedals

We check the free wheeling of the axle. The void gap formed between the “pants” and the locknut is filled by installing a washer of the required thickness, or one of the locknuts is changed (there are two of them on each side, of different thickness). We swap the places of the thick and thin nuts. We put the assembled wheel in place and fix it with union nuts. Checking the roll forward.