How to remove backlash in the bottom bracket on a bicycle

The cause or what causes the backlash of the mountain bike front fork?

In the design of a bicycle fork, namely in the legs, a pair of rails are installed, which are made of plastic, they are called bosses. Due to their wear and tear, this phenomenon occurs.

How to determine if there is a backlash?

Everything is very simple, just press the front brake and move the bike back and forth, if there is a play, then you will definitely feel it. For inexpensive forks, backlash is not uncommon, it manifests itself very quickly. Minimum backlash is allowed. Over time, the backlash will increase and it is worth thinking about the bulkhead and finalizing the fork.

If there is a play in the front fork of the bicycle ➔ elimination, repair

Today we’re going to talk about how to eliminate play in a sports bike suspension fork. This scheme is suitable for all brands of popular and not so popular bicycle suspension forks such as RST (OMEGA, Blaze, GILA, Capa), SUNTOUR (XCR, XCM, XCT), Rock Shox, zoom and others. Inexpensive forks are arranged, as a rule, in a similar design, so the instructions for bulkhead and elimination of backlash can be applied to almost any model. Read what bicycle forks are, their types and types.

Prevention and elimination.

For convenience, I would recommend removing the fork completely, but some do it on bicycles as well. It should not be difficult for you to remove the fork from the bike, unscrew a couple of bolts, remove the handlebar and, if necessary, brakes or a cable.

Removing the fork legs.

We unscrew the nuts or hexagons from the bottom, with a 10 wrench, then we will see the threaded ends from which we unscrewed the nuts, in order for the legs to come off, most likely it will not be necessary to hit them hard with a hammer. In order not to knock off the thread, it is necessary to screw the nuts a little again and knock out the pants with light blows.

Now you need to remove the oil seals that prevent dirt from entering the fork. To do this, you need a small screwdriver, pick and remove them.

Next, you need to remove those parts that directly break the fork and create a loofah. bosses or they are also called guides. The guides have latches, so we pull them out by turning them a little, to release the latch of the retainer from the groove in the pants.

Working with guides.

Let’s move on to the most important thing. It is necessary to wrap tape or electrical tape on the guides. How many turns you need to wind depends on the wear. First, try making a couple of loops and inserting the guides into your pants. Where the latches are not wound, or cut out where necessary. If they got up tight, then maybe that’s enough. Remember how easily they were extracted from you. Having done this manipulation with both bashings, you can figure out putting your pants on your forks and shake them. If there is backlash again, then remove it again and add a couple more with a skein on the plastic guides and reassemble until we achieve the desired effect.

Before assembling the fork, it is imperative to clean it of old dirt and grease, rinse the oil seals (anthers) and other parts. It is also advisable to lubricate the rails, fork legs.

Interesting video on how to eliminate play on the SR Suntour XCT fork.

In principle, in such a simple way, you can eliminate the play on the bicycle fork, it does not take much time. How long such a repair will last depends on how much and on what roads you ride. From time to time, with the appearance of backlash again, you will already know how to eliminate it, at the same time you will go over the anoint the plug, which will give, though not for long, but a positive effect. It’s still cheaper than buying a new fork if you are already buying a good quality high-end fork. But even with such forks, you will not bypass TO, but the resource will be an order of magnitude higher.

How to fix wheel play on a bike

During operation, the wheel fastening is loosened and a backlash appears. Untimely elimination of the indicated malfunction can lead to the failure of the bike at the most inopportune moment.

How To Remove & Install A Threaded Bottom Bracket On Your Bike | GCN Tech Monday Maintenance

Eliminate the front wheel runout

Remove the front wheel. We disassemble it. Wipe and remove old grease from the raceways of balls and bushings.

We put a new grease and fix 9 balls in it (if they are in bulk) or 7 cage bearings.

Next, we screw the radius nut onto the axle, after which we install the axle into the bushing, screw the radius nut from the opposite side. Then we align the ends of the threaded axle, remaining on both sides (they should be the same).

We screw on the locknuts, expanding them with a notch to the radius nuts. Then, using the keys, we press them tightly. It is important not to forget to set the required tension of the bearings (balls) correctly. In no case should they be squeezed, on the one hand, and such an extreme as the remaining wobble of the wheel, on the other, should not be allowed.

When assembling the front wheel, the radius and locknuts are first pressed from the side of the disc brake. Since it is inconvenient to do it from this side. The nuts are tightened with two keys. It is most convenient to use for the indicated purposes the Swedish key No. 1 and a special thin open-end wrench designed to perform just such operations. It’s easy to buy them. But get the maximum possible pull-up.

We pass to the other side of the wheel. We also set the tension of the balls and tighten the nuts. With a properly tightened locknut, the radius nut begins to rotate with it.

But sometimes situations arise when the nuts are overtightened. In this case, they need to be slightly loosened. To do this, turn the radius nut counterclockwise (use a thin open-end wrench).
After setting the required tension, a control check is performed and the radius and lock nut are pressed.

We check the free wheeling of the axle. The void gap formed between the “pants” and the locknut is filled by installing a washer of the required thickness, or one of the locknuts is changed (there are two of them on each side, of different thickness). Swap thick and thin nuts.
We put the assembled wheel in place and fix it with union nuts. Checking the roll-forward.

Factors leading to wheel runout

The main reasons for the appearance of backlash can be considered:

  • significant wear of the installed sleeve;
  • Damage to radius nuts on the ball raceways.
remove, backlash, bottom, bracket

  • Wear of special notches with a sufficiently high relief, which are applied to the locknuts at the factory and contribute to a closer contact of this product with the radius nut. The increased adhesion of the surface of the nuts reduces the likelihood of loosening. Similar notches should be found on the main nuts that secure the wheel to the bike. In this situation, it is recommended to replace the nuts with new products.
  • The compression between the radius and the lock nut is relaxed. It is necessary to promptly tighten.
  • When installing a wheel on a bicycle between the locknut and the rear stays (colloquially called “pants”), there was an empty space that would cause the runout. It is recommended to install a washer here, which will select the void.

We remove the backlash of the rear wheel

On the rear wheel, there is most often a bushing for a ratchet, much less often for a cassette. Therefore, consider the first option.
The wheel is removed, disassembled, wiped, lubricated. Balls or bearings are installed. The axle is put in place with pre-screwed radius and locknuts.

The ratchet is removed. On the side where it is installed, the radius and locknut are tightened first. On the disc brake side. second. Do not forget to preset the tension of the bearings or balls.

When assembling, a situation often arises when the balls relax when tightening the second pair of nuts. An assistant (“third hand”) is required. If not, you can use a bicycle frame as such.

We put the ratchet in place. Checking how easily it rotates. We fix it in place with a clamping nut. We carry out the assembly in the same way as the front wheel.

The need to remove the ratchet is due to the fact that without this it is impossible to service the bushing. Otherwise, it is impossible to tighten the nuts located just under it with the required force and remove the radius nuts.

READ  How to lubricate a bike chain without removing

The voids when installing the wheel in place (in the “pants”) are also selected by installing a thick washer.

The installed wheel is pressed against the bicycle feather by a clamping nut (from the ratchet side) and is strongly pressed. Only after this operation does it become possible, without assistance, to set the correct tension of the balls and to properly clamp the radius and locknut both from the side of the brake disc and from the side of the ratchet.

After that, the wheel is fixed to the frame feather with two nuts, then it is checked for ease of rotation and the absence of backlash.

How to remove backlash on a bike

We remove the backlash of the rear wheel

On the rear wheel, there is most often a bushing for a ratchet, much less often for a cassette. Therefore, we will consider the first option. The wheel is removed, disassembled, wiped, lubricated. Balls or bearings are installed. The axle is put in place with pre-screwed radius and locknuts.

The ratchet is removed. On the side where it is installed, the radius and locknut are tightened first. On the disc brake side. second. Do not forget to preset the tension of the bearings or balls.

When assembling, a situation often arises when the balls relax when tightening the second pair of nuts. An assistant (“third hand”) is required. If not, you can use a bicycle frame as such.

We put the ratchet in place. Checking how easily it rotates. We fix it in place with a clamping nut. We carry out the assembly in the same way as the front wheel.

The need to remove the ratchet is due to the fact that without this it is impossible to service the bushing. Otherwise, it is impossible to tighten the nuts located just under it with the required force and remove the radius nuts.

The voids when installing the wheel in place (in the “pants”) are also selected by installing a thick washer.

The installed wheel is pressed against the bicycle feather by a clamping nut (from the side of the ratchet) and is strongly pressed. Only after this operation does it become possible, without outside help, to set the correct tension of the balls and to properly clamp the radius and lock nut both from the side of the brake disc and from the side of the ratchet.

After that, the wheel is fixed to the frame feather with two nuts, then it is checked for ease of rotation and the absence of backlash.

Removing the fork legs.

We unscrew the nuts or hexagons from the bottom, with a 10 wrench, then we will see the threaded ends from which we unscrewed the nuts, in order for the legs to come off, most likely it will not be necessary to hit them hard with a hammer. In order not to knock off the thread, it is necessary to screw the nuts a little again and knock out the pants with light blows.

Now we unscrew the nuts to the end, now the pants should easily be removed from the legs of the fork.

Now you need to remove the oil seals that prevent dirt from entering the fork. To do this, you need a small screwdriver, pick and remove them.

Next, you need to remove those parts that directly break the fork and create a loofah. bosses or they are also called guides. The guides have latches, so we pull them out by turning them a little, to release the latch of the retainer from the groove in the pants.

If there is a play in the front fork of the bicycle ➔ elimination, repair

Today we’re going to talk about how to eliminate play in a sports bike suspension fork. This scheme is suitable for all brands of popular and not so popular bicycle suspension forks such as RST (OMEGA, Blaze, GILA, Capa), SUNTOUR (XCR, XCM, XCT), Rock Shox, zoom and others. Inexpensive forks are arranged, as a rule, in a similar design, so the instructions for bulkhead and elimination of backlash can be applied to almost any model. Read what bicycle forks are, their types and types.

Working with guides.

Let’s move on to the most important thing. It is necessary to wrap tape or electrical tape on the guides. How many turns you need to wind depends on the wear. First, try making a couple of loops and inserting the guides into your pants. Where the latches are not wound, or cut out where necessary. If they got up tight, then maybe that’s enough. Remember how easily they were extracted from you. Having done this manipulation with both bashings, you can figure out putting your pants on your forks and shake them. If there is backlash again, then remove it again and add a couple more with a skein on the plastic guides and reassemble until we achieve the desired effect.

Before assembling the fork, it is imperative to clean it of old dirt and grease, rinse the oil seals (anthers) and other parts. It is also advisable to lubricate the rails, fork legs.

Interesting video on how to eliminate play on the SR Suntour XCT fork.

In principle, in such a simple way, you can eliminate the play on the bicycle fork, it does not take much time. How long such a repair will last depends on how much and on what roads you ride. From time to time, with the appearance of backlash again, you will already know how to eliminate it, at the same time you will go over the anoint the plug, which will give, though not for long, but a positive effect. It’s still cheaper than buying a new fork if you are already buying a good quality high-end fork. But even with such forks, you will not bypass TO, but the resource will be an order of magnitude higher.

Factors leading to wheel runout

The main reasons for the appearance of backlash can be considered:

  • significant wear of the installed sleeve;
  • Damage to radius nuts on the ball raceways.
  • Wear of special notches with a sufficiently high relief, which are applied to the locknuts at the factory and contribute to a closer contact of this product with the radius nut. The increased adhesion of the surface of the nuts reduces the likelihood of loosening. Similar notches should be found on the main nuts that secure the wheel to the bike. In this situation, it is recommended to replace the nuts with new products.
  • The compression between the radius and the lock nut is relaxed. It is necessary to promptly tighten.
  • When installing a wheel on a bicycle between the locknut and the rear stays (colloquially called “pants”), there was an empty space that would cause the runout. It is recommended to install a washer here, which will select the void.

How to determine if there is a backlash?

Everything is very simple, just press the front brake and move the bike back and forth, if there is a play, then you will definitely feel it. For inexpensive forks, backlash is not uncommon, it manifests itself very quickly. Minimum backlash is allowed. Over time, the backlash will increase and it is worth thinking about the bulkhead and finalizing the fork.

What Langtu offers

For any question. whether it is the repair of a skewed bicycle wheels or a complete re-spacing of the rim. please contact our masters who will provide you with high-quality and fast service. We have all the necessary tools, as well as a machine on which it is possible to carry out any manipulations at a professional level.

  • complex curvature of the rim;
  • inaccurate operation of bearings in the sleeve;
  • an old tube or tire;
  • problems with the stars.

Maintenance of bicycle wheels includes rare breakdowns of various difficulties.

We remove the backlash of the rear wheel

On the rear wheel, there is most often a bushing for a ratchet, much less often for a cassette. Therefore, we will consider the first option. The wheel is removed, disassembled, wiped, lubricated. Balls or bearings are installed. The axle is put in place with pre-screwed radius and locknuts.

The ratchet is removed. On the side where it is installed, the radius and locknut are tightened first. On the disc brake side. second. Do not forget to preset the tension of the bearings or balls.

When assembling, a situation often arises when the balls relax when tightening the second pair of nuts. An assistant (“third hand”) is required. If not, you can use a bicycle frame as such.

We put the ratchet in place. Checking how easily it rotates. We fix it in place with a clamping nut. We carry out the assembly in the same way as the front wheel.

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The need to remove the ratchet is due to the fact that without this it is impossible to service the bushing. Otherwise, it is impossible to tighten the nuts located just under it with the required force and remove the radius nuts.

The voids when installing the wheel in place (in the “pants”) are also selected by installing a thick washer.

The installed wheel is pressed against the bicycle feather by a clamping nut (from the side of the ratchet) and is strongly pressed. Only after this operation does it become possible, without outside help, to set the correct tension of the balls and to properly clamp the radius and lock nut both from the side of the brake disc and from the side of the ratchet.

After that, the wheel is fixed to the frame feather with two nuts, then it is checked for ease of rotation and the absence of backlash.

The rim is a round frame with a complex profile, which on one side is spoked to the wheel hub, and on the other, it provides space for securing the tube and tire. Tires are attached to the rim either with a special groove (standard layout). this is called a box mount, or by gluing (narrow road wheels on a bicycle).

Previously, almost all manufactured rims were U-shaped, i.e. the profile was not rigid enough. Nowadays “double” rims are in vogue. Two additional stiffeners make the profile as strong as possible. For extreme disciplines, there are three-, four- and even five-chamber rim profiles, but for such a strength you will have to pay with both high cost and heavy weight. And the more weight, the more difficult it is to untwist and rotate such a device. Special U-shaped rim design typical of road bikes.

Rims are usually made of aluminum and its alloys, which have replaced steel structures. Sport rims are sometimes made of carbon fiber. maximum lightening and replacement of spokes with one-piece “blades” are compensated by the huge price and high fragility, which blocks the use of such rims on difficult roads and off-road.

Speeds are poorly reset to a higher gear or change after one or two

The speed cables move with difficulty, which is caused by contamination of the inner surface of the shirts or their laying with a large bend.

Decision
: remove the cables, pull them out of the shirts, pour WD40 into the inner cavity of the shirts. If there is rust or white coating from winter reagents, both cables and shirts need to be replaced.

When asked whether it is necessary to lubricate the speed cables on a bicycle, the answer is a resounding “no”, because dust and sand will adhere to the lubricant, after which the gear shift will become indistinct again.

It is necessary to lay the cables in such a way that there is no excessive bending anywhere. However, there is no need to leave large loops around the rear derailleur and shifters. they can snag on obstacles while riding.

During operation, the wheel fastening is loosened and a backlash appears. Untimely elimination of the indicated malfunction can lead to the failure of the bike at the most inopportune moment.

Also read on this topic:

Bicycle wheel. The bicycle wheel takes on the loads that arise during the operation of this vehicle. The purpose of the wheel is to support the weight of the cyclist and the entire structure of the bicycle and to cope with the shock loads that arise from.

Bicycle rims. On different types of bicycles, rims with different designs are installed, but the overwhelming majority are rims of the so-called box section. They are designed for tires with bead edges. In the rim itself.

Bicycle wheel size. The overall size of a bicycle wheel is the rim diameter plus the thickness of the bicycle tire. The unit of measurement for the diameter of a bicycle wheel is English inches. There are now six common bicycle wheel sizes.

Double-sided bushing. Double-sided hub (Flip-Flop). a hub that is designed to quickly change the type of drive and gear ratio by shifting the bicycle wheel 180 ° along its axis. It has threads on both sides and allows you to install.

Bicycle cassette. For mountain bikes, cassettes are made with a set of stars from 11-28T to 11-36T for 8-10 stars. For road racers from 11 (12).22T to 11 (12).27T for 8. 11 stars. Campagnolo mountain cassettes are road compatible with equal number of stars.

For adult bicycles

Bicycles for adults tend to be of almost the same dimension. There are minor differences depending on the type of bike.

How To Remove, Regrease And Replace Your Bottom Bracket | Mountain Bike Mechanics

Most often they prefer to choose a diameter of 26 inches. This size is very convenient to use and transport, and it also takes up relatively little space, which is very practical when stored in an apartment. For those who prefer high speed, the 27-inch version will do. Most often, this dimension is found in road, high-speed bicycles.

For people with a height of 180 cm or more, you can purchase 29-inch wheels, so it will be much more convenient to ride.

We remove the backlash of the rear wheel

On the rear wheel, there is most often a bushing for a ratchet, much less often for a cassette. Therefore, consider the first option.
The wheel is removed, disassembled, wiped, lubricated. Balls or bearings are installed. The axle is put in place with pre-screwed radius and locknuts.

The ratchet is removed. On the side where it is installed, the radius and locknut are tightened first. On the disc brake side. second. Do not forget to preset the tension of the bearings or balls.

When assembling, a situation often arises when the balls relax when tightening the second pair of nuts. An assistant (“third hand”) is required. If not, you can use a bicycle frame as such.

We put the ratchet in place. Checking how easily it rotates. We fix it in place with a clamping nut. We carry out the assembly in the same way as the front wheel.

The need to remove the ratchet is due to the fact that without this it is impossible to service the bushing. Otherwise, it is impossible to tighten the nuts located just under it with the required force and remove the radius nuts.

The voids when installing the wheel in place (in the “pants”) are also selected by installing a thick washer.

The installed wheel is pressed against the bicycle feather by a clamping nut (from the side of the ratchet) and is strongly pressed. Only after this operation does it become possible, without outside help, to set the correct tension of the balls and to properly clamp the radius and lock nut both from the side of the brake disc and from the side of the ratchet.

After that, the wheel is fixed to the frame feather with two nuts, then it is checked for ease of rotation and the absence of backlash.

The rear hub of a bicycle must always be in good condition, because it is it that determines the smooth running of a two-wheeled vehicle. According to many cyclists, the ride quality of a bike depends largely on the type and mechanical performance of the frame. However, in practice, the defining moment here is the state of the undercarriage. bushings, carriages, chains, and other systems.

Pedals spin when riding with a load (or without)

The pawls in the drum of the rear hub are worn out (as an option. in winter, in severe frost, the thick grease in the drum “seized”). You can determine that the problem is precisely in the hub as follows: make sure that when the sprockets are scrolled, the cassettes and chainring rotate with the chain, but the bike does not move.

Decision
: in the first case, repair or replacement of the rear bushing, in the second. disassembling the bushing and replacing the grease with a less dense one (sometimes even the grease is removed altogether, before the onset of heat). In both cases, skill and tool are required, so it is better to contact a bike rider.

Cassette sprockets or chainrings are badly worn. If, when scrolling the pedals, the star from the back or front remains stationary (the chain slides along the teeth), then it is to blame. A similar malfunction often occurs when replacing a chain. the old one, gradually stretching, changes the profile of the teeth of the sprockets, and when installing a new chain, its links can no longer fully engage with the bored teeth.

Decision
: Usually the most “popular” cassette sprockets and the middle sprocket of the front system wear first. Alternatively, you can change the gear ratio and ride on those stars that were usually little used.

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Of course, this is a half-measure, acceptable if there is currently no money to buy new consumables. Therefore, as soon as you notice scrolling of the pedals, in which the sprockets are to blame, change both the chain and the cassette.

If you replaced only the chain, and got scrolled on an old cassette, then immediately buy a replacement for it, because otherwise the new chain will quickly become unusable.

Changing cassette and chain is easy, but requires a special tool.

Causes of occurrence

The main causes of backlash include the following:

  • abrasion of the wheel hub;
  • wear of the radius nut (in another way the cone) and damage to the raceways of the bearings;
  • abrasion of special notches on the locknut, which serve for a closer contact with the radius nut. The high degree of adhesion between the nuts prevents loosening;

Most often, these reasons arise during active use with extreme loads on the wheels and the bike as a whole. The period of use and the quality of parts play an equally important role.

The following causes can be eliminated without replacing parts:

  • weakening the compression between the radius and the locknut. Requires an elementary pull-up with a key:
  • the gap that appears after the wheel is in place between the bike frame and the locknut. It is necessary to fill in the empty space with a washer or engraver;

Removing the carriage from a bike

We’ll warn you right away, without a puller, the procedure is almost impossible to perform. If you try to remove it without a special tool, there is a high probability of breakage of the carriage cup.

  • squeezing the connecting rod (if the connecting rod is removed without it, then a 14 mm head or an 8 mm hex wrench is required);
  • small adjustable wrench or set of open-end wrenches;
  • flat screwdriver;
  • medium hammer;
  • carriage puller for unscrewing the glass (depends on the carriage model, manufacturer’s firm).

Note! Additionally, an M8 bolt with a 1 mm pitch and spacer nuts may be required. It is necessary for a more reliable fixation of the puller and to prevent “licking” of the slots.

Before starting the procedure, it is recommended to wipe the bike from dirt, so it does not get into the threaded connections. At the end of the preparatory stage, you can proceed to the direct removal of the carriage. Step-by-step instruction:

  • Remove the connecting rod from the sprocket side:
  • Remove the bolted plastic plugs.
  • Unscrew the fixing bolt using a squeeze or a 14 mm socket. Depending on the model, an 8 mm hexagon is also used.
  • Apply a squeeze to remove the connecting rod. It is screwed into the internal thread, then the nut is clamped, which moves the pusher.
  • At this stage, the cup and the carriage itself will become visible. They start from the right side, since in some cases a plastic cup is installed on the left, which easily breaks when twisted. Such a nuisance will require a complete replacement of the carriage on the bicycle. You do not need to touch the left connecting rod. it will be removed by itself at the end of the process.
  • Take a carriage puller and fit it to the cup slots. If the grip is poor, it is recommended to use an M8 bolt as follows:
  • Put a few freely moving nuts and a washer on the bolt.
  • Install the puller and fix it in the slots by screwing the bolt into the carriage.
  • When the puller is attached, you can begin to unscrew the cup and the entire carriage. On the right side, this is done clockwise. As soon as the thread gives in to movement, the bolt is unscrewed.
  • The carriage is removed from the landing glass, at the same time the left connecting rod is also dismantled.
  • Further, if necessary, the glass is unscrewed from the left side. A puller is also used for this. There should be no difficulties here.
  • What to do if you need to remove the carriage on a bicycle: detailed instructions

    If cycling is carried out quite rarely, then a person may never be faced with the need to carry out the procedure described in the article. But the regular use of two-wheeled vehicles will sooner or later require appropriate maintenance. Below we will figure out how to remove the carriage from the bike, carry out its further analysis, cleaning and lubrication.

    What is a carriage

    The bicycle pedals are attached to the cranks, which in turn are screwed into the carriage. The latter is a shaft placed in a special cavity of the frame. a glass. As you might guess, the element is located at the bottom of the bike. The main purpose of the carriage is to connect the connecting rods and their circular movement during pedaling.

    Different carriages are installed on different bike models. They differ in the following parameters:

    • The size. The most widespread are 68 mm knots. However, in a professional environment, you can find shaft lengths of 110 mm, 113 mm and 122.5 mm.
    • Maintainability. Cartridge cartridges are not serviceable; if a squeak or backlash occurs, they are replaced with new ones. Dismountable serviceable: cleaning followed by application of fresh lubricant.
    • Materials. Inexpensive carriages may have a plastic cup on one side, which is easy to break when disassembled. Below is a method for avoiding damage to a component while removing a part. Also, oil seals play an important role, which protect the bearings from moisture ingress: the better they are, the longer repairs will not be required.

    We identify the malfunction

    The features described below will also be relevant for the rear carriage of the bicycle, or rather the hub. The first signal of a problem will be a characteristic sound. A squeak appears when there is insufficient lubrication, and a crunch occurs when dirt gets into the bearings.

    Important! All signs are determined while driving, the breakage is not visible visually. The second signal will be difficult pedaling and knocking at the bottom of the bike. With a large run-up, the development of a part is observed. In this case, there will be a backlash.

    The final check is carried out while standing. It is necessary to pick up speed and step on the pedals, if the problem is present, then its symptoms will intensify.

    Carriage service

    Further disassembly, cleaning and lubrication of the moving elements of the carriage is carried out in the following sequence:

    • The left ball cup was removed when the carriage was unscrewed. The right one remained pressed into the bushing. To dismantle it, it is necessary to screw the connecting rod bolt into the axle, then grasp the glass with one hand, and with the other, using a hammer, make several blows to the bolt head.
    • Now access to the anthers covering the bearings has been gained. They are picked out with an ordinary flat-edged screwdriver. After you managed to remove the boot from the bike carriage, the bearings will become visible. If not, then the separator is blocking access. This part is installed if the bearing balls are not fastened together. She, too, can be removed with any sharp object.
  • Next, the old grease is removed with toilet paper, a rag and a brush. It is important to clean all removed parts.
  • New grease (e.g. Teflon or Lithol) is applied to the bearing balls and evenly distributed.
  • The separator and the boot are installed in the reverse order.
  • The procedure is repeated for the second party.
  • Apply some grease to the right cup. To press it onto the bushing, screw the connecting rod bolt to the opposite side of the axle, then grab the cup and lightly hit the bolt head with a hammer several times.
  • This completes the carriage service. It remains to install it in the bike frame in the reverse order.