How to remove a tubeless tire from a bike

Tubeless rims

At the dawn of its development, back in 1999, tubeless technology meant only the use of special UST components. Due to its reliability, the universal tubeless system (UST) has not lost its relevance in our time. When making rims of this standard, no spoke holes are drilled into the rims. This ensures maximum tightness and strength. Another feature is the presence of special hooks for which the tire should cling to with its bead cord. This design ensures tightness even without the use of a sealant.

But, from the above advantages, the corresponding disadvantages follow:

  • The high weight of the components used;
  • High price;
  • Low maintainability of the rims due to the fact that you have to look for special spokes.

These shortcomings pushed manufacturers to search for their elimination, which resulted in the emergence of a new BST standard. Bead Socket Technology. In the production of rims of this standard, manufacturers have taken into account a very important point. The fact is that UST rims have high walls and when installing a tire, it is meant to fit as accurately as possible with a bead cord for special hooks on the rim. In practice, this is almost never achieved. in most cases, the tire falls to the bottom of the rim. Because of this, its sidewalls are exposed to constant loads and bends, as a result of which the service life is significantly reduced, and there is also a risk of breaking and breaking the tire from the rim.

BST type rims have walls a few millimeters lower, thanks to which it was possible to solve not only this problem, but also to gain an advantage due to the larger volume and better shape of the installed tire. In addition, when making rims, there is no need to make them completely sealed. In this case, a special tape of the appropriate width is used for this. It is glued along the rim in one or more layers, thereby sealing the holes for the spokes. In the place where there is a hole for the nipple, the tape is cut and a special nipple is inserted. Another feature of such a standard is the mandatory use of a sealant, which we will talk about in the further part of the article.

Disadvantages of tubeless

Although this technology has a number of advantages, it also has some disadvantages:

  • Requires specialized tires, rims and sealant.
  • Harder to side the wheel
  • Periodic replacement of the sealant (once every half a year) is a dubious minus.
  • High cost

Types of tubeless wheel sealants

Despite the large number of sealants on the market, all of them can be divided into two types. latex and polymer. The composition of the polymer sealant contains the smallest particles of fiber, which are in suspension. When a puncture forms, air escapes from the tire, capturing liquid with it. After a while, the fibers completely cover the puncture.

This type of anti-puncture fluid has several significant disadvantages:

  • The main one is the impossibility of sealing micropores. As a result, if the tire is not completely new, drops of liquid gradually begin to appear through its walls.
  • The second negative point is the difficulty with gluing large punctures. In this case, while the hole is tightened, a large amount of sealant comes out of the tire along with air.

Of the advantages of polymer sealants, one can single out their durability, as well as low cost.

A latex-based sealant contains a large number of microscopic rubber particles coated with a protein shell. This type of liquid is the closest in composition to a bicycle tire, since the rubber interacts with it perfectly. With the formation of a puncture and the rapid release of air from the tire, the protein shell is destroyed, and the rubber particles begin to instantly interact with fresh rubber at the site of damage. This process is identical to cold vulcanization.

There are several manufacturers that produce high-quality sealants:

  • Stan’s No Tubes;
  • Slime;
  • Continental;
  • Joe’s No Flats.
  • Schwalbe

Life hack: Sealants for auto and motor vehicles designed for tubeless use are perfect for tubeless bicycle tires!

The benefits of tubeless technology

  • There is no risk of getting a “snakebite”. Many cyclists are well aware of this type of chamber breakdown. It occurs if, when overcoming obstacles with sharp edges (curbs, tree roots, etc.), the pressure in the wheel was insufficient. There is a complete compression of the tire to the rim and, as a result, the chamber is punctured by its edges. This breakdown is the most unpleasant, since after it there are two holes in the chamber at once, which are very problematic to glue.
  • High reliability of specialized tubeless tires. Many manufacturers make tires specially designed for tubeless fit. They can be distinguished from ordinary ones by the special abbreviation UST. Universal System Tubeless. These tires have several high-tech cords and reinforced sidewalls. Due to this, they are not only more resistant to various types of punctures, but also less susceptible to side cuts and other types of mechanical damage.
  • Complete sealing of punctures. Tubeless uses a special sealant, which we’ll talk about later. Their main task is to seal tire punctures. And even if the tire received multiple small punctures and cuts (wire, nails, thorns), after removing them, the sealant will seal the holes by itself and you can safely ride on.
  • The tubeless is easy to repair. There are times when, far from home, a cyclist is faced with the problem of a large cut in the tire, in which the capacity of the sealant may not be enough to seal it. And here ordinary thick threads or special rubber designed for such purposes will come to the rescue. You just need to insert them into the hole, and the sealant will finish the rest. Upon arrival home, after such a procedure, it is recommended to disassemble the wheel and put a patch on the cut on the inside of the tire.
  • Better rolling and comfort. No matter how insignificant this criterion may seem, there is strong friction over the entire area of ​​contact between the tire and the camera while driving. Combined with poor quality road surfaces, long distances or high winds, the friction between tire and tube will take extra forces away from the rider. Tubeless comfort is enhanced by the ability to ride at a lower pressure, allowing the tire to lick most small obstacles.
  • Lower weight. By eliminating the use of a camera, as well as purchasing specialized rims, it is possible to significantly lighten the weight of the wheels. It has long been no secret that weight reduction on wheels has the most productive effect on bike rolling.

Tubeless bike tires

Tubeless technology for installing bicycle tires has been known for a long time. But, if earlier it was used mainly by professional riders, now it is available to many cycling enthusiasts.

In tubeless tires, there is no camera, and the function of the camera is performed by a special sealant. The tire with sealant adheres tightly to the rim walls and does not allow air to pass through. The use of such tires significantly reduces the likelihood of puncture and eliminates the unpleasant procedure for gluing the tubes.!

In this article, we will try to reveal the secrets of tubeless technology as accurately as possible, as well as analyze whether it is worth spending money on buying new components that will be required to assemble tubeless wheels.

What you need to install a tubeless tire

  • Tubeless rim and tire;
  • Special kit for tubeless tires (all for tubeless tires)
  • Floor standing bicycle pump or compressor

Installing a tubeless camera

3) Replace the original rim tape (flipper) with a special tubeless adhesive tape to seal the rim. Before starting the procedure, the rim from the inside must be cleaned and degreased. And in order for the tape to lay down more evenly and tightly, it must be slightly stretched during the gluing process. Also, make sure that no air bubbles form between the band and the rim. If the tape is of high quality, then one layer with an overlap of the tape in the area of ​​the nipple hole by about 15 cm is quite enough. After gluing, at the location of the nipple, you need to make a rounded hole for its installation (preferably with a heated awl or nail);

5) Next, install the tire. For ease of installation, we wet the rim with a soap base or special grease. At this stage, with a partially installed tire, you can pour the sealant inside and then complete the installation of the tire.

Also, you can pour the sealant through the nipple after the tire is completely installed on the rim.

The amount of sealant depends on the diameter of the tires as well as their width. On average, 60-120 ml. During the first installation, you do not need to save on the amount of sealant. let it evenly fill possible micro-holes, cracks, as well as gaps between the tire and the rim;

6) Next, we swing the wheel either with a compressor or special. a pump with an expansion chamber, or a CO2 canister until a characteristic click appears, which indicates that the tire is in the grooves;

7) We spin the wheel so that the sealant is evenly distributed inside the tire;

8) Then we set the working pressure in the wheel (indicated on the tire) using a pump with a pressure gauge.

Important! After all the necessary procedures, do not rush to put the wheel on the bike.

At first glance, the procedure for switching to tubeless technology is rather troublesome and expensive. But this is a delusion! After purchasing and installing all the necessary components for tubeless tubes (tapes, nipples and sealant), you just need to periodically replenish the sealant in the tire, forgetting about the endless patches! The only exceptions are serious cuts and tire ruptures, which are extremely rare. Using tubeless technology, you will completely forget about the unpleasant procedure for gluing cameras. And 1 liter of sealant is quite enough for several seasons of skiing, while buying high-quality expensive cameras can result in a pretty penny;)

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Preparing paint stripper.

Shake the can. Remove the lid after wearing gloves, as a little liquid may spill onto your hands when you open the can. Opening with bare hands can burn your skin. Don’t open the jar over the kitchen sink. go outside. Pour some liquid into a cup or metal can. The cup can no longer be used for drinking, so find an unnecessary cup.

This is what the paint stripper looks like in a glass beaker. Please note that I have worn gloves to protect against harmful substances.

Required tools and materials.

Everything that was needed to remove the paint from the bike cost me 20. I didn’t varnish the frame, but planned to apply clear powder paint.

I bought all of these materials, although most of them I didn’t need:

  • paint remover;
  • White Spirit;
  • paint brushes;
  • razor;
  • 3M cleaning pads (two coarse and two fine);
  • chemically resistant gloves;
  • cotton swabs on a stick (not shown in the photo), needed to clean the steering column and brake arch.

Be sure to wear gloves so that the paint remover does not burn your skin.

How to completely remove paint from a bike

I had an old Columbus Steel Cinelli Gazzetta bike painted pink over white and had stickers. In damp conditions, steel frames rust quickly, so they must be painted. But before painting the bike, you must first remove the old paint from the bike.

How To Change a Tubeless Mountain Bike Tyre (Tire)

Removing paint from a bike.

There is a spot without paint on the frame on the side of the dropouts. You can start removing paint from it.

After applying the liquid, the paint peels off very quickly. Almost immediately. Practice removing paint in a small area first.

The paint started to bubble and after one minute it looked something like this.

Peeling paint. Do not touch her with your bare hands.

Remove the bike components you want to protect from paint. For example, I took off my San Marco saddle.

Don’t repeat my mistake. don’t work indoors. A fan or extractor hood won’t help. The smell will be just awful. The photo shows the moment of removing paint from the downstays of the rear triangle.

It took two minutes to remove each coat of paint. The fluid worked very quickly. Even outdoors, be careful when handling paint stripper as it is hazardous to health! I wiped off the rest of the paint with a paper towel. To avoid scalding, do not touch slippery and damp paint with bare hands.

The paint has been removed from the downstays of the rear triangle. Now you can start with the frame and wings.

Carefully remove any paint from the entire frame. You cannot quit your job halfway because the steel frame cannot be stored unpainted. So be patient. I spared no paint stripper and applied it liberally all over the frame. Although I succeeded, I probably shouldn’t have done that, because it’s terribly inconvenient. And if I ever have to remove the paint from the bike again, I will only be working on one pipe at a time.

After a single application of the liquid, the paint peels off after two minutes. Truth is not in itself. She needs a little help.

The 3M cleaning pads have worked very well. Unfortunately, I did not have enough of them, as they were soaked in the paint stripper and the paint itself. So buy more of them.

There is practically no paint left on the Columbus frame.

This is the plug after cleaning and rinsing. Almost all paint has been removed. Removing the native paint layer turned out to be much more difficult than the top layer.

This is what the frame looked like the next day. After applying the liquid twice, most of the paint has come off. I used a coarse cleaning pad when doing this.

I decided it was more efficient to remove paint from only one pipe at a time, and I was right. At this point, I have already applied paint stripper three times to the upper and lower pipes.

The fork is almost finished! Almost all paint has been removed. Further, thinner tools will be required.

It will be more difficult to get rid of the paint around the head tube. But before that you need to remove the carriage and head tube. I forgot to do it, but I managed it nonetheless.

I got a little dirty on the track. Of course, you can just wash the track with water from a hose, but if you don’t want to pollute the environment, then look for a large piece of cardboard.

All paint that could be removed with the brush has already been removed. It’s time to apply white spirit and cleaning pads.

Do not smoke while handling white spirit as it is flammable.

Since I only have one cleaning pad left, I wiped the frame with a paper towel soaked in white spirit. Removing paint residues and paint stripper was a snap.

And finally, he wiped the frame with a 3M cleaning pad soaked in white spirit, after which there was absolutely no paint left on the bike.

How to remove a tubeless tire from a bike

Bicycle Repair: How to Fit a Tubeless Tire to a Bicycle

Why you need to install a tubeless

What you need to purchase to install a tubeless tire

What tools are needed to install a tubeless

Sequence of actions when installing a tire

Consider fitting Tubeless Ready tires as it is the most time consuming.

Why you need to install a tubeless

The tube generally weighs more than the required amount of sealant poured into the tire.

For improved roll-off and handling when cornering, descending and ascending

Relevant for cross-country trails, as well as trips over bumps, for skiing in the mountains. You can ride at fairly low tire pressure, which in the conditions mentioned earlier will make you feel much more confident than using the tubes.

This is due to the fact that you can use tires under reduced pressure, which in the case of using a tube will lead to its breakdown. With tubeless tubes, you can drive more aggressively, not be afraid to crash into the roots, and also on stones the probability of puncture or breakdown decreases. Even if it does happen, the sealant can help you by “plugging” the hole that appears.

What you need to purchase to install a tubeless tire

They should be able to fit tubeless tires. The difference from conventional rims lies in the shape of the seat on which the tire sits.

They should also have the capability mentioned above. However, the tire is not always labeled “Tubeless Ready” (“2Bliss Ready”). Sometimes manufacturers by default make beads on their tires, thanks to which it stands up tubeless (some models of Schwalbe, Continental, Maxxis).

Essential for sealing the tire / rim joint, for filling micropores in tires (especially important for thin XC tires), and for repairing punctures while riding.

Needed for sealing the spoke nipple holes on the rim.

Exceptions are tubeless rims without nipple holes such as those used on the Shimano XT wheelset.

What tools are needed to install a tubeless

In order for the tire to sit on the rim, we need a large flow of air supplied at a high speed.

If there is a possibility of installation without mounting, it is better not to use them. But if you have ZTR Crest rims and Schwalbe Racing Ralph tires, then you will need them.

Use only plastic prongs! With metal you will damage both the rim and the tire. Ideally a well-known brand, so as not to break.

It is necessary for the tire to sit tightly along the sides.

Ideally, this, but you can also ordinary from the pharmacy

It can be used to pour the sealant into the tire through the collapsible nipple.

Often supplied complete with nipples.

Tire installation sequence

If the rim has holes for the spoke nipples, tape them over. Before gluing, wipe the surface with any degreaser, wipe with a cloth, let dry.

Begin to glue the tape 3-5 cm from the nipple hole. Glue evenly, if possible, without air bubbles. After you “cover” the hole for the nipple a second time, back off another 3-5 cm and cut the tape

Make a sharp hole for the nipple.

(If you have ZTR rims, skip steps # 3, 4, 5)

Place the tire with the tube on the rim, bend and inflate the maximum allowable pressure. The tire should “sit” on the rim with characteristic clicks.

Lower the tube and fold the tire on one side of the rim. The other side must remain “snapped”.

Insert the nipple and tighten with the supplied round nut from above. Then there are 2 options.

5.1. Pour the sealant into the tire, put it on the rim and lubricate the rim sides and tires with sealant (or soapy water). Inflate to the maximum allowable pressure. If the tire did not “stand up” when inflating, then use the following option.

5.2. Do not fill in the sealant, lubricate the rim flanges and tires, and then inflate the tire. When it sits on the sides with a characteristic sound, unscrew part of the nipple with a special key (and if it is not there, then with pliers). Draw sealant into the syringe and pour through the hole into the tire in the required amount, depending on the diameter and width of the tire (usually from 80 to 130 ml). Screw on the top of the nipple and inflate the maximum allowable pressure.

If you have ZTR rims, then just fit tubeless nipples, then the tire to the rim, possibly with a razor. Pour sealant either through one open bead or through a nipple and pinch the tire beads with your fingers so that they are in the center of the rim. Just in case, lubricate the beads with sealant or soapy water. After that, pump up the tire. it should easily fix on the sides of the rim.

!Since a large volume of air is quickly supplied to install the tire, in the absence of a compressor, work very intensively with a stationary pump.

Take the wheel, spin it, swing it in different directions. If air is oozing from somewhere, make sure that the sealant flows there.

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At first, it is possible to lower the wheel after a short time. To prevent this from happening, ride a bike, and then finally select the desired tire pressure.

Latex-based sealant tends to dry, roll up, so renew it every 2-3 months, if possible, removing old dried parts of the sealant from the tire.

If you have a lot of time, nerves and improvised means, you can install the tires tubeless and on ordinary rims

How to wear a bicycle tire correctly

Tools

Different tools will be needed depending on the design of the bike.

Extremeley difficult tubeless tire removal from Enve Carbon rim.

The minimum set is hands (preferably with gloves), nothing else is needed. What is used to facilitate the process?

  • Dismantling a bicycle wheel. small oblong plastic plates with a “hook” at the end. Very helpful to hold the edge when starting to dismantle without effort, and then remove it.
  • Any replacement of the folding. keys (from locks or wrenches), coins, sticks are often used (which is quite traumatic, by the way).
  • Wrenches for removing the wheel. there are also models where the axle is fixed with bolts, not eccentrics.
  • Pump. needed when installing the wheel back.

How to change a tire on a bicycle?

Not everyone punches their own wheels, and not everyone repairs a bicycle on their own. Nevertheless, understanding how you can remove a tire from a bike and put what you need for this and how to do it easily and without unnecessary problems is useful for most riders.

When we remove a bicycle tire?

  • The camera is broken. you need to remove the tire, then change the camera, and then assemble the wheel;
  • When replacing, in fact, bicycle tires. they tend to wear out, especially with aggressive or prolonged driving;
  • When servicing the wheel. when other elements, for example, the camera, can interfere.
remove, tubeless, tire, bike

Sequencing

So, what needs to be done to remove the tire from the bike?

  • We begin to remove the wheel by washing out the brakes (in the case of V-Brake) or removing the caliper (disc), they can greatly interfere with the next steps.
  • Loosen the bolt or eccentric holding the wheel in the frame.
  • We take out the wheel.
  • We release excess air from the chamber through the nipple, it is important that there is as little air as possible, otherwise the camera can easily be touched and damaged.
  • We pry off the edge with the help of unbundling or its replacement at one point.
  • We measure 10-15 cm and repeat the operation, bending the segment between the two bevels, and, taking it outside the rim, outward.
  • Carefully continue removing the tires until one side is completely behind the rim.
  • We repeat the action in the same direction with the second side of the tire. Usually this stage is already easier.
  • Done!

Repair of the camera only is limited to items 1-7.

  • It is necessary to put on the tire, starting to lay it inside the rim with one side.
  • On the last 15-30 cm, we fix one side of the tire with a bead and carefully transfer the entire edge inside the rim.
  • Place the edge of the tire inside the rim and install the camera.
  • We repeat the process of folding through the rim with the second edge of the tire to finally put it on.
  • Done!
  • We mount the wheel, close the brakes.

Do not forget that all actions should be carried out correctly. Rubber does not like heavy loads, especially the thin and soft rubber used in cameras. All operations with the tube inside the tire should be done delicately.

Installing unidirectional tires

The rubber of a modern bicycle wheel in most cases consists of a tube and a tire (tire). We do not consider the one-tube option. Let’s talk about installing a tire. precisely about its correct orientation.

If the tread pattern is symmetrical, then it can be installed on either side. But there are also unidirectional tires, i.e. with an asymmetrical tread pattern designed to fit and rotate in one direction. For these tires, the orientation during installation is already important.

Some manufacturers clearly and unambiguously draw an arrow in accordance with which the wheel should rotate with the recommended installation.

If installed on the front wheel. see the Front arrow, on the rear. Rear. Sometimes a tire is specially designed to work only on the rear or only on the front wheel. Then the manufacturer also makes a warning label:

Installing such a tire in the wrong orientation results in poorer traction, worse bike handling, less rolling and faster tire wear.

If an arrow is drawn and it is signed in letters on the rubber how to install, then everything is simple. But what to do when the tire is clearly unidirectional according to the tread pattern, and there are no arrows or other indications?

Recommended installation is such that the rear wheel leaves a mark. and the front when moving from left to right.

The reason for this recommendation. The rear wheel is responsible for traction and flotation, so the V must rest with its feet against the surface for better traction (/ \). The front wheel plays a greater role when braking, so the pattern is oriented in the opposite direction.

If you need maximum cross-country ability, put both tires. Option two seems to have no reasonable practically useful meaning.

The issue of adhesion / braking in relation to the orientation of the tread pattern is important when driving on soil, sand. On the asphalt it doesn’t matter.

And one moment. If you look at the Belarus tractor or car tires, you will notice that the tires are installed there exactly the opposite: It would seem that a tractor in the field needs maximum cross-country ability, and auto grip will not interfere with the road. But here another factor plays a role. aquaplaning. At high speed, with a sufficient wheel width, water from the road surface can collect in a wave in front of the wheel and the vehicle slides on a water cushion. The oriented pattern allows water to be squeezed out along the sides of the wheel and maintains grip. In principle, aquaplaning does not threaten a bicycle due to the shape and size of the contact patch of the wheel with the road, high tire pressure and relatively low speed.

»How to dress correctly

Sequencing

So, what needs to be done to remove the tire from the bike?

  • We begin to remove the wheel by washing out the brakes (in the case of V-Brake) or removing the caliper (disc), they can greatly interfere with the next steps.
  • Loosen the bolt or eccentric holding the wheel in the frame.
  • We take out the wheel.
  • We release excess air from the chamber through the nipple, it is important that there is as little air as possible, otherwise the camera can easily be touched and damaged.
  • We pry off the edge with the help of unbundling or its replacement at one point.
  • We measure 10-15 cm and repeat the operation, bending the segment between the two bevels, and, taking it outside the rim, outward.
  • Carefully continue removing the tires until one side is completely behind the rim.
  • We repeat the action in the same direction with the second side of the tire. Usually this stage is already easier.
  • Done!

Repair of the camera only is limited to items 1-7.

  • It is necessary to put on the tire, starting to lay it inside the rim with one side.
  • On the last 15-30 cm, we fix one side of the tire with a bead and carefully transfer the entire edge inside the rim.
  • Place the edge of the tire inside the rim and install the camera.
  • We repeat the process of folding through the rim with the second edge of the tire to finally put it on.
  • Done!
  • We mount the wheel, close the brakes.

Do not forget that all actions should be carried out correctly. Rubber does not like heavy loads, especially the thin and soft rubber used in cameras. All operations with the tube inside the tire should be done delicately.

Tools

Different tools will be needed depending on the design of the bike.

The minimum set is hands (preferably with gloves), nothing else is needed. What is used to facilitate the process?

  • Dismantling a bicycle wheel. small oblong plastic plates with a “hook” at the end. Very helpful to hold the edge when starting to dismantle without effort, and then remove it.
  • Any replacement of the folding. keys (from locks or wrenches), coins, sticks are often used (which is quite traumatic, by the way).
  • Wrenches for removing the wheel. there are also models where the axle is fixed with bolts, not eccentrics.
  • Pump. needed when installing the wheel back.

Designation on some tires with directional arrows.

Tires are marked with a ROTATION or DRIVE arrow. this is the recommended direction for wheel rotation. The tire is oriented on the wheel by rotation in the direction of the arrow in the direction of the bicycle, clockwise.

For front and rear wheel, arrows in different directions

Arrows FRONT. direction of rotation for the front wheel and REAR. direction of rotation for the rear wheel

A new tire and a used one must be installed according to the arrows on the side of it, on some the arrows are replaced with inscriptions in English, and the arrows can additionally show the direction. Arrows and labels indicate the clockwise direction of rotation of the wheel.

Having decided on the direction, we pull without any keys, only with our hands one side of the tire onto the rim so that the arrows on the side surface point clockwise of the clock.

In order not to look for the nipple of the camera for pumping it in the future, it is necessary that the brightest pattern on the tire coincides with the nipple hole on the rim, so we turn the tire on the rim until this pattern coincides with the nipple hole on the rim.

Installing the camera in the tire.

Installing the camera into the tire begins with inflating the camera a little bit so that it just straightens out. Easily from the picture on the tire we find the hole in the wheel rim and insert the nipple of the camera into the hole of the nipple. gently straighten the camera inside the tire.

We finally fill the tire over the side of the wheel rim together with the camera. We start again from the place where the nipple of the camera is located on both sides of it. You don’t need keys for this! As soon as you have a sector that is already difficult to fill over the side of the wheel rim, we do the following manipulations:

  • We push the nipple of the camera not completely inside the tire.
  • We straighten the tire in the place where the nipple is located and try to drown it deeper inside the rim, squeezing the tire with our hands on both sides in the nipple area.
  • The tire further without keys should, with a slight tension, calmly put on the wheel completely.
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»How to put it on

Rear Bicycle Wheel.

We put the wheel on a flat surface with a ratchet up. It could be the ground near the bike. We inspect the tire itself. If this is a tire that has already been on your bike, then you need to make sure that there are no remnants of glass, wire, nails and the tire cord is not worn anywhere or exposed.

Cord is a wire inclusion in the tire at the innermost diameter of the rubber. the tire seat. Broken, exposed cord does not hold the shape of the tire and can damage the tube.

How to properly fit a tire on a bicycle

Secrets of Proper Use of Bicycle Tires

For a comfortable ride on a bike, an important point is optimal tire inflation. With insufficient inflation, the cyclist has to apply more forces while riding, the bicycle tires wear out faster. Over-pumping reduces traction, the ride becomes harder, the risk of puncture of the bicycle tube increases.

To minimize the risk of punctures, look for tires with good lateral coverage when shopping. Another indicator is cord weaving. The denser it is, the better the quality of the products. A useful device is a special anti-puncture tape located between the tire and the tube.

Be sure to take a tire repair kit when traveling. This will allow you to quickly deal with the trouble.

The process of mounting a bicycle tire is the same, but in reverse order.

For installation it is necessary to perform the following steps:

  • Put the tire on the rim, then begin to put it into the rim gradually, first from one side;
  • Install the tube by placing the edge of the tire inside the rim;
  • Repeat the whole set of actions with the other edge of the tire, until you finally put it on.

It remains to mount the wheel and close the brakes. When handling the tire, keep in mind that the tube is made of a soft and thin material. All actions must be carried out so as not to damage the camera.

When is it necessary to remove or replace a tire

You may need to remove your bike tire in the following cases:

  • With a punctured camera. In this case, remove the tire, replace the punctured bicycle tube with a whole one, and then reassemble the wheel;
  • In case of tire wear. In particular, the tire wears out quickly with aggressive driving style;
  • When repairing a wheel of a bicycle, when the camera is simply in the way.

Required tools

If desired, the tire can be removed and replaced without the use of tools (this will be discussed in detail). But, if you follow all the rules, then it can come in handy:

  • Dismantling for a bicycle wheel. It is an oblong shaped plastic plate equipped with a hook;
  • If there is no disassembly, it can be successfully replaced by a key: from a lock or a wrench. As a last resort, you can use a coin;
  • Bicycle wheel removal wrench. In some models, the wheel is not fixed to the eccentric, but to the bolt;
  • Pump. You will need it when reinstalling your bike wheel.

Board cable

Its purpose is to securely fasten the tire in the wheel rim of the bike. Materials for its manufacture are kevlar (most often), synthetics or steel wire. Steel bead cable is the most budgetary. The cost of Kevlar cables is much higher, they have less weight, they are easy to store rolled up. You can take the Kevlar cable with you on your trip as a backup. It will not take up much space.

Tools

Different tools will be needed depending on the design of the bike.

The minimum set is hands (preferably with gloves), nothing else is needed. What is used to facilitate the process?

  • Dismantling a bicycle wheel. small oblong plastic plates with a “hook” at the end. Very helpful to hold the edge when starting to dismantle without effort, and then remove it.
  • Any replacement of the folding. keys (from locks or wrenches), coins, sticks are often used (which is quite traumatic, by the way).
  • Wrenches for removing the wheel. there are also models where the axle is fixed with bolts, not eccentrics.
  • Pump. needed when installing the wheel back.

Removing a tire from a bike

Sooner or later, any cyclist finds himself in a situation where he needs to remove the tire on his own, say, because of the need to replace a punctured tube, so he undoubtedly must know how to do this. In order to learn how to easily and quickly remove a tire from a bicycle wheel rim, you must first understand the mechanism of this procedure. It is not necessary to use mounting paddles in the beading process. the rim can be easily “stripped” without their help.

So, let’s get down to taking notes of the sequence and correctness of the stages of boarding a bicycle wheel. Following simple rules, you will quickly acquire the skills of basic maintenance of the wheels of your bicycle.

To make it easier to bead the tire, turn your e-bike over and place it on the handlebar and seat. However, before you turn over your vehicle, be sure to disconnect the electronics and remove the batteries.

Disconnect the wheel from the frame by unscrewing the mounting nuts. You will also have to disconnect the brake pads and remove the sprockets from the chain if the rear wheel is pulled out.

The first thing to do before you start pulling the rubber off the rim is to release all the air from the chamber by pressing the valve on the nipple. It is clear that with an incompletely deflated camera it will not be very convenient to carry out boarding, not to mention pumped up to the maximum. The less air is in the tube, the faster and easier it will be to remove the tire.

As soon as the air has been deflated from the tire, we begin to move it from all sides, higher from the edges of the rim, helping to unstick it from the walls. I draw your attention to the fact that it is better to start doing this from the side opposite to the camera nipple. Further, according to the logic of things, we do so that the beads of the tire are in the center of the rim channel. We move the sides of the tire into the groove, moving our hands towards each other. It is desirable to make the area of ​​nipple placement the end point of contact of the hands.

After the tire bead rises above the rim edge, pull the bead back and throw it over the rim edge. Using a spudger, or by sticking a finger inside the tire, we help the rim to free itself from rubber, smoothly moving in a circle.

As you can see, the procedure for boring a bicycle tire is quite simple, and almost everyone can cope with it. the main thing is to do everything right. As for the reverse process. pulling the tire onto the bicycle rim, it is similar to the one described above, however, before pulling the rubber, you will need to pump up the camera a little, and evenly, without jamming, lay it out to the rim groove.

Removing and replacing a bicycle tire yourself is not a big deal. Most cyclists do this job successfully the first time. A careful approach to work and the availability of convenient accessories are all you need to successfully remove the tire.

Three of these plates are enough for me so that one side of the tire begins to easily climb out of the rim. When I used keys, screwdrivers, or any other materials at hand instead of plastic plates, I very often punched a new camera when installing.

Next, we take out the old camera, starting with the nipple, after unscrewing the cap and washer.

Now we carefully unpack the new camera without violating its integrity. I stopped gluing old cameras a long time ago. As a rule, it takes longer and more expensive.

Before shoving a new tube into the tire, you should swing it a little so that it takes shape and we have less chance of chewing it between the rim and the tire.

First of all, insert the nipple and secure it well with a washer. Next, we push the camera under the tire with our hands along the entire perimeter.

Now we feed the tire back into the rim, first with our hands, and at the end with the same plates that we took out. At this stage, you need to exercise the utmost care, as it is at this moment that you can damage the camera.

After the tire is in place, you need to lightly tap the wheel on the ground, turn it in a circle. Thus, the camera will take its place where it could get between the tire and the rim.

Install the wheel into the fork. Tighten the nuts alternately on both sides, while making sure that the distance between the fork and the wheel, closer to the frame, is approximately the same. If you are changing the camera on the rear wheel, be sure to put on the chain when installing.

Having installed the wheel, turn it by hand, if it spins a little more by inertia, then everything is in order, you can pump it up, If it stops almost immediately, then you need to unscrew it and slightly release the fixing nuts on the sleeve.

If I am not in a hurry and do everything in order, then it takes me no more than 15 minutes to replace the camera.