Cycling cameras can be made from the following materials:
- Latex. These products are made on the basis of highly elastic natural rubber. The main advantages are minimal energy losses and low weight. Latex is used to make cameras for racing bicycles;
- Butyl rubber. It is a synthetic budget material used in everyday bike cameras. Inexpensive material, good air holding, wear resistant.
Proper wheel installation and removal with a quick release with washers
Which nipple to choose for a bicycle camera?
Through the one-way valve of the nipple, air is pumped into the chamber, it also keeps the air in the chamber.
There are 3 types of nipples that can be used for a bicycle tube:
- Sports Presta;
- Bicycle Dunlop;
- Car Shrader.
The oldest and least reliable type of nipple is the Dunlop. Previously, they were found on Soviet-made bicycle models, today fewer cameras with such nipples are produced.
Presta sport nipples are found on mountain bikes, road bikes and hybrid bikes. True, recently it has begun to be used on simpler bicycle models.
The most common type of nipple is the automotive Shrader. It is very convenient to have a bicycle camera with just such a nipple, because in this case it will be possible to pump up the wheel even at a gas station. In general, most manufacturers now make universal pumps that fit both Shrader and Presta nipples. Therefore, you can choose either of these two.
Useful tips for replacing the camera
Before mounting a new camera, pump it up a little;
Make sure that there is no oil on the bike tube, tire and brake pads;
When using a spoon or special spatula, proceed as carefully as possible so as not to damage the camera;
Inflate the bicycle tube with the pressure indicated on the tire. If she overdoes it, she may not be able to stand it;
When buying a new bicycle rubber, choose it for the hole on the rim, as the valves are different;
If you notice that the bike tube is damaged, do not under any circumstances continue driving until you have replaced it.
First, it will tear even more when moving. Secondly, you risk damaging not only the tire, but also the rim.
Installing a new tire
We put on a new tire on one “edge” of the wheel, so that we have a free for inserting the camera.
We take a new chamber (deflated) and, starting with the nipple, we lay it along the rim.
While the camera is not yet closed, pump it up a little to make sure that it is laid flat and not twisted anywhere. If the camera is kinked or twisted during the installation process, it will most likely burst as soon as you get on the bike. Agree, you don’t need such unnecessary frustrations, because these are not only spoiled plans, but also additional financial costs.
Bicycle Wheel Balancing: Marginal Gains or a ‘Must Do’?
Now you need to “tuck” the tire into the rim. In the first steps, this is done manually, but at the end, editing will be required again. You can do it with one, but it’s better to use two. Use it to pull the tire slightly towards you so that it fits easily into the rim. You can push the tire a little inward with the assembly so that it is better fixed. The main thing is that the mounting depth is the same throughout the entire circle.
After the wheel is closed, pump up the chamber to the desired state. Usually, the pressure you need is indicated on the tire, check it to get your pump set up correctly.
Now screw the cap on the nipple to fix the condition of the wheel.
It remains to put the wheel in place and that’s it. Now your bike is back on the move! Do a small circle on it at low speed to make sure everything is secured correctly and you feel comfortable. If necessary, inflate the chamber of the second wheel so that they are equally elastic. Many cyclists experience minor riding discomfort after replacing one camera. If everything is ok, you can go on the road. Suddenly what happens, you already know how to change the tire and you can do it even in field conditions.
So, what needs to be done to remove the tire from the bike?
We begin to remove the wheel by eroding the brakes (in the case of V-Brake) or removing the caliper (disc), they can greatly interfere with the next steps. We loosen the bolt or eccentric holding the wheel in the frame. We take out the wheel
We let the excess air out of the chamber through the nipple, it is important that there is as little air as possible, otherwise the chamber can easily be touched and damaged. We pry off the edge with the help of unbundling or its replacement at one point
We measure 10-15 cm and repeat the operation, bending back the segment between the two bevels, and, taking it outside the rim, out. Carefully continue removing the tires until one side is completely behind the rim. We repeat the action in the same direction with the second side of the tire. Usually this stage is already easier. Done!
Repair of the camera only is limited to items 1-7.
- It is necessary to put on the tire, starting to lay it inside the rim with one side.
- On the last 15-30 cm, we fix one side of the tire with a bead and carefully transfer the entire edge inside the rim.
- Place the edge of the tire inside the rim and install the camera.
- We repeat the process of folding through the rim with the second edge of the tire to finally put it on.
- We mount the wheel, close the brakes.
Do not forget that all actions should be carried out correctly. Rubber does not like heavy loads, especially the thin and soft rubber used in cameras. All operations with the tube inside the tire should be done delicately.
INSTALLING THE CAMERA IN PLACE
It is necessary to inflate the camera a little to avoid damaging it again.
Insert the nipple into the special hole in the rim and carefully insert the entire tube into the middle of the tire.
Tuck the edges of the tire over the full width of the wheel into the rim. You should be able to do this with your hands, but if the edges do not want to fall into place, take the editing and use it to complete your plan. Do this carefully, otherwise you will have a new puncture.
In order for the camera to be able to straighten inside, pump up the wheel a little and knead the camera, this will be enough for the camera to take the correct position.
Bleed the wheel to the required state. To do this correctly, without fear that the wheel will burst unexpectedly, after inflation, squeeze the camera with two fingers. If your fingers cannot overcome resistance, then the camera is pumped up enough, you can hit the road.
How to prevent puncture
It is easy to work with the repair kit, but there are several technological methods that allow you to repair cameras without it.
Perhaps the most interesting products in this area are self-adhesive cameras. Their secret is that a special gel or resin is poured into the dense chamber. In the event of a breakdown, this substance flows into the rupture and seals it. Thus, self-adhesive models allow you not to think about repairs for some time, however, such cameras cost at least twice as much as their conventional counterparts with a weight of 1.5-2 times more.
Otherwise, puncture prevention is very simple:
- Inflate the wheel correctly. An under-inflated or over-inflated wheel is prone to bursting from biting or pressure, respectively.
- Choose clean roads. The most common cause of punctures is iron screws, nails and glass. They can be easily avoided simply by observing the surface you are moving on.
- Do not storm obstacles head-on. Even a shock-absorbed front wheel hitting a sharp edge is guaranteed to cause damage, even if the first breakdown did not occur.
- Use “anti-puncture tape”, which is an extra layer of synthetic rubber that is placed between the tire and the tube inside the wheel.
When to remove the rear wheel
It is unlikely that the idea of unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:
- noticeable damage to the rim;
- complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
- a flat tire or a burst tire;
- bulkhead bushing.
This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.
Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, a bell and a lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and disassembled, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.
I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two wrenches.
Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end wrenches or box wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.