How to remove a bearing from a bicycle wheel

Backlash, rear sprocket on a bicycle, how to clean it, what is the reason. Bicycle rear sprockets

My VK Useful videos from my channel about bike repair. 1) Rear wheel hub service. 2) Front wheel hub service. 3) How to fix, align the figure eight on the bike wheel 4) Brakes v brake setting how to adjust and install on the bike 5) Solid oil and lithol 24 can be lubricated or not. 6) KT-305 how the hub with a foot brake works, maintenance, mechanism design. 7) Backlash and shake, the rear or front wheel spins, how to fix it. 8) Replacing and adjusting the rear crossover 9) Adjusting the front crossover of the bike / watch? v = bKvnDcujDRg 10) How to soften the fork on a bike.

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Industrial bearing or bulk?

I myself argued a lot, shouted with foam at the mouth that ball / bulk bearings are junk, that they should be on cheap bikes and that Shimano is crazy conservative Japs who do not want to see progress. Industrial / sealed bearings I have always considered the default better than any bulk bearings. However, as is often the case, over time I have come across new information and, more importantly, with the practice of riding on a wide variety of bushings. There were cheap bushings on balls, and the middle price segment on industrial bearings and expensive ones on slide bushings, in short, all sorts were.

After many years of practice, I realized that Shimano’s position is nowhere near as clownish as I thought. A bulk bearing, like an industrial one, can be of different quality. The use of expensive materials and technologies makes it possible to achieve in the bushings not even the highest level (Deore) a very decent reel. It is much easier to service such bushings than bushings on industrial bearings similar to them at the price, or rather, you simply cannot buy a decent bushing on industrial bearings at such a price! Replacing the prom bearing is not so easy. Bulk is lubricated in 5 minutes and the only thing you need to be able to do is correctly tighten the counter nuts. The hubs above the Deore are for the most part just weight relief and show-off. Which rolls better? A high-quality industrial bearing is in no way inferior to a good bulk bearing. So the question is, who likes what and what type of loads is planned. Cheap bushings on bulk bearings are the worst shit and there is nothing to say about them. Inexpensive bushings on industrial bearings simply do not exist. Even the cheapest hub like this is already worth a decent price and it’s not a fact that it will roll well.

What is roll-over and why is it needed? The hubs should not only allow the wheel to spin without play, but also help the rider save power. If the hub rotates with some difficulty, then this forces the rider to constantly do additional work, which, counting on high mileage, translates into decent fatigue. Rolled bushing helps you ride faster, longer and retain more strength.

Bulk bearings are not relevant in all units of the bike, strictly speaking, except for bushings, they should not be used anywhere else. Some people think that in the headset the lower bearing should be made of large balls. Yes, it’s more durable, but you have to use steel headset cups and this makes the bike’s face brutally heavier. Modern tapered headsets in DH / FR bikes completely eliminate the need for this retro approach to durability. Semi-integrated steering with a good sealed bearing rarely breaks down.

Bulk bearings in carriages, where the loads are very high, are also inappropriate. Most often, in this unit, industrial bearings are used carried out behind the carriage glass to increase the diameter, which is necessary for a greater margin of safety. Closed bearings behave best in pedals, however, such pedals cost 3-4 times more than bulk ones, and this is not particularly reflected in everyday driving and jumping. The ease of rotation of the pedal around its axis is important only in competitions.

Finally, once again about the bushings: if roll is important and there are no heavy loads, as in BMX, Street / dirt / park / dh / fr, then ball bearings in good bushings are good. If you jump and load the bike, then you need to take bushings on prom bearings. In steering, pedals and carriages there should be only industrial bearings.

A similar bushing has been successfully installed on the Jaguar tandem built in 2004 for many years.

An article written back in the late 90s, I recently found in the archive. On modern domestic sports and inexpensive mountain bikes, bushings with a screw-on easily removable ratchet are used in the rear wheel. This design allows you to quickly upgrade the bike by replacing the entire sprocket block, since there is now a large selection of them on the market from different manufacturers at quite affordable and good quality. Large loads on the drive wheel on velomobiles (and it is not necessarily the rear one), the need to constantly adjust the resulting backlash and simply the rapid wear of the bushings pushed us to the need to develop a more durable and reliable unit suitable for manufacturing on our own. The main requirements are to ensure high durability through the use of standard ball bearings and to minimize the need for adjustments during operation at a minimum cost and without the use of expensive and scarce materials and technology.

When manufacturing a small batch of about 50. 100 pieces, the welded version of the body is preferable, although this increases the number of technological operations. Body blank. pipe 36×3 mm. Material. Steel 20, Steel 30 We cut the body blanks from the pipe to the size along the length of 86 mm From sheet steel (the grade does not matter), although Steel 10 is better with a thickness of 2.5 or 3 mm (the thicker the better, at least 4 mm) in any convenient way we make flange blanks with an inner size of 36 mm and an outer size of 58-60 mm In the device we weld the flanges at a distance of 16 and 10 mm from the edge using spacer rings of the appropriate length between the base and the flange. For pressing, we use three clamps, which we place evenly at 120 degrees. First, we make three tacks with a semiautomatic welding machine (welding with steel wire in carbon dioxide). wait for the part to cool completely in the conductor and weld the seam completely.

The third option is the most unexpected. The smallest bearing is installed in the most loaded place of the structure. But the design has proven its manufacturability and reliability during long-term operation. A workpiece. a worn-out body from the rear wheel hub of a road bike of the “Torpedo” type (a big plus. there are already all the holes for the spokes and a minus. you cannot use the standard plastic protection for the spokes from mountain bikes. The housing from the sprocket side is turned flush with the spokes flange. On this side, insert part 7 (according to the assembly drawing) and braze. Further turning according to the drawing. There is a 14 mm collar on the rear wheel axle. not for the bearing stop! The distance sleeve rests on it. Installation begins with bearing 60101, which is secured in place by punching out from the end at three points. Then we insert the axle assembly with a podnipnik 60202 and a spacer sleeve and tighten it with a nut.

the aluminum case is bored, a steel sleeve is pressed into it with a slight interference and bored “clean” under the bearing seat.

Cantilever drive wheel Used on a cantilever full suspension bike:

identical bodies are used either as a hub for a regular bike

Or under axles with cantilever mountings, under trailers, velomobiles, etc.

wheels with such bushings were initially installed on the winter version of the Cherry velomobile

And now, after replacing the axles, they stand on the Archimedes liguerad.

General industrialization and standardization has led to the fact that even unknown brands do everything accurately and efficiently. If you don’t want to look under the cat, then a short summary, quite high-quality, but not outstanding thing. Find cheaper, take there Manufacturer: GAOTELU Color: black Material: Aluminum Number of spokes: F 16 2 / R 16 2 Number of bearings: F 2 / R 4 Rim size: F 100mm / R 135mm Spoke diameter: F 57mm / R 57mm Overall length and shaft diameter: F 9 108mm / R 10 145mm Bushing diameter: F 65mm / R 65mm Ratchet teeth: 3 Weight: F 345g / R 493g

Bearings are standard R8 2RS (brand not known), in which case it is not difficult to find problems. In the rear hub there are two bearings in the hub itself and two in the ratchet, in the front there are two. The ratchet is protected from the outside by a boot, there are no more anthers in the bushings. The nuts at the ends of the bushings should be locked with screws. All parts are made accurately, without any defects, backlash, excessive gaps. The brake disc got up without any problems. I will answer a possible question: Promo or bulk? I personally did not feel any advantages in movement, after changing the bulk stock to the described bushings. I chose the promo because of my own laziness, in service they are extremely simple: I disassembled it, wiped it and assembled it, not being afraid to drag something out or not to hold it.

Bearing types

By design, the element is divided into 2 categories:

    The sliding part is an outwardly smooth bearing without balls. It is often made of bronze, steel alloys and antifriction materials with a low coefficient of friction. Consists of 2 elements.

Due to their interaction, the bearing wears out quickly, and backlash is formed. Applies to cheap bike models.

  • Rolling bearings consist of two elements connected together. Balls are placed in small recesses. With their help, friction is minimized and the service life of both the part itself and the mechanism in which it is located increases. Used for heaviest loads (bushings, derailleur rollers, carriage).
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Replacement on the plug

You can determine that it is time to change the bearings of the front fork of a bicycle by the following criteria:

  • the presence of backlash;
  • the appearance of unusual sounds from the steering column while driving;
  • the functionality of the steering wheel is impaired.

The assembly where the bearing is located is located in the glass. To replace it, you need to take the following steps:

  • turn the bike over;
  • dismantle the front wheel;
  • return the bike to its original position;
  • remove the handlebar and stem with a wrench or a hexagon for the nut located inside;
  • unscrew the lock nut, which requires an adjustable wrench;
  • get the washer, and then remove the cup;
  • Pull the bearing out of the housing carefully, due to the absence of a separator, the balls may crumble;
  • after inspecting the components of the mechanism, replace damaged parts, including damaged bearing balls;
  • clean all components from dust and dirt;
  • grease.

Replacement on bushings

The process of replacing a damaged part on the front hub is easier than on the rear. Before proceeding with the disassembly of the hub on the rear wheel, you will need to dismantle the cassette and sprockets.

How To Change The Bearings In Your Mountain Bikes Front Wheel | MTB Maintenance

If the bike has only one speed, you need to dismantle the retaining ring and sprocket. These elements can be removed using a cassette puller, a whip-retainer. Algorithm of actions when replacing the bearing of the rear wheel of a bicycle:

  • remove the wheel from the dropout;
  • release the hub from the stars (if the bicycle front wheel bearing is being replaced, this item is skipped);
  • then the stopper is removed with a screwdriver;
  • get rid of the fastening nuts, which are located on the side opposite to the asterisks, with a 15 wrench;
  • get washers, bearing assemblies;
  • clean all the components of the mechanism;
  • replace bearings;
  • lubricate the knot.

In order to assemble the bushing, you need to perform the steps in the reverse order. When installing all the elements back, it is important to monitor the evenness and absence of distortions. Improper assembly will affect bushing performance.

Replacing bearings

The main task of the bearings is to ensure the fixation of the moving part of the bike and its correct operation. Breakage of a part will lead to a decrease or complete absence of the mechanism’s performance.

For correct maintenance and replacement in the event of a malfunction, it is necessary to distinguish between the types of bearings. Depending on the mechanism in which the element is applied, it is assumed that a specific type of element is used.

Keeping the bike in good working order requires timely maintenance of the moving mechanism and replacement of damaged parts.

When choosing a new bearing for replacement, one should take into account the characteristics of the one installed in a particular unit. A mistake in the choice can lead to damage to the mechanism.

How to remove and install a wheel

How to remove and put on (install, put) a wheel on a bicycle, front or rear? It seems to be a ridiculous question for an experienced cyclist. But, note, in addition to experienced cyclists, there are also inexperienced.

So how is it? Everything seems to be simple. let the clamping nuts on the wheel axle, or in general a quick-release eccentric. and that’s it. But for an inexperienced bike enthusiast, the devil is in the details, and there are a lot of such details here.

Two receptions

There are two techniques used to remove and install a bicycle wheel:

  • emergency removal and installation in place, without its complete disassembly. It is used in case of damage (puncture, cut) of a bicycle tube or tire, for their repair or replacement. In this case, all units and parts attached to it. the brake rotor of disc brakes, a cassette or a ratchet. are not removed, they remain on the bicycle during the entire period of repair work.
  • removal and installation with complete disassembly. It is used when it is necessary to repair or replace the wheel rim, partially or completely replace the spoke set, wheel hub, or send the bicycle for storage in a closet or garage. In this case, you should disassemble both the front and rear wheel of the bicycle. remove the brake rotor, cassette (ratchet), tire and camera. This can be considered a partial disassembly. And in the case of major repairs, you will have to completely dismantle the spoke set and wheel hub, which will already be considered a complete disassembly. Before installing such a disassembled bicycle wheel, you should assemble it together with all the assemblies and parts hung on it.

Features of removing and installing bicycle wheels

The peculiarities of removing and installing bicycle wheels are determined by the design features of the brake systems and bicycle transmission used. Since only the drive rear wheel interacts with the transmission of the bicycle, it is usually somewhat more difficult to remove and reinstall it than the front one. Assemble the rear wheel of a bicycle together with attachments and parts (cassette or ratchet, brake rotor) before installing it on the bicycle.

  • On bicycles with single speed single speed hubs or multi-speed planetary hubs that use drum brakes, when removing the rear wheel, disconnect the brake lever mount from the rear right dropout (usually a bolt and nut). When installing the rear wheel in place, respectively, you should screw the brake lever back to its mount.
  • In the case of a multi-speed planetary hub. when removing the rear wheel, you must also disconnect the bowden cable that controls the gear change (when installing it, connect the control bowden back).
  • In the case of using rim brakes (vibrating racks, tick-borne) both on the rear and front wheels. you should open them with your hands and remove (insert) the removed (installed) wheel from engagement (into engagement) with brake pads.
  • In the case of using disc brakes on both the rear and front wheels, in parallel with the withdrawal (insertion) of the wheel axle of the hub from (in) the dropouts, follow the careful withdrawal (insertion) of the brake rotor from (to) its place between the brake pads into brake mechanism. calliper. Remove the wheel carefully enough so that the brake rotor does not bend.
  • If it is a motor-wheel of an electric bicycle (electric bike), then in order to remove (install), disconnect (connect) the power cable from the battery. And for the rest, the motor wheel should be removed and put in the same way, in compliance with the same rules and requirements as an ordinary bicycle.

How to remove a cassette from a bicycle wheel?

After an active cycling season (maybe two seasons), you will most likely need to replace the sprockets on the rear wheel. When you first remove the cassette from the rear wheel of a bicycle, you will surely have questions: what to turn, which key to use, how not to break the mechanism. Fortunately, our experience and the right recommendations will help you here.

Cassette Removal Tools

The first thing you need is a whip to hold the cassette. It is essentially a piece of chain attached to a metal handle for ease of use. You put the chain on the stars, rest against the handle as securely as possible and thus fix the stars.

Spare parts To replace the cassette

Now about what needs to be replaced:

The first is the cassette retaining ring. You can use the old one, but usually with regular maintenance, the teeth in the ring are erased. And if you service the bike yourself, there is a great risk that you will completely rip off the teeth at the next removal. In addition, this ring is always included with good cassettes. So don’t forget to check availability when purchasing.

The second is the cassette itself. There are several important points here:

How to remove a cassette from a rear wheel without a puller (whip) ?

There are several ways to remove the cassette without this tool. Precisely without a whip. you cannot do without a key for removal.

Stuck bearing into bike hub?. FIX

Take the old chain, put it on the stars, wrap it around the wheel and try to remove the cassette. Cons. not very reliable, you can scratch the wheel rim. This should be done only in emergency situations (bike trip, race).

Make a semblance of a tool yourself. To do this, you will need a piece of an old chain, a drill / electric screwdriver, a wooden stick / block of sufficient density (so as not to pull out the screw). Do not use nails. they rip them out once or twice.

Attach the chain to the end of the bar and use) But do not forget about safety measures! Still, homemade gadgets can suddenly break.

What to do after replacing the cassette?

When you removed the old one, carefully cleaned everything and put a new one (similar to removing, in reverse order). you need to do a few more simple steps. First, put the chain and wheel back in place. Please note that the wheel is installed only in a position on the ground, not in a rack. So it will go into the grooves on the frame as clearly as possible, it will not become crooked and the brakes will not rub.

Secondly, after replacing the cassette, you will have to adjust the gear changes. To do this, you can manually (with a key, of course) tighten the cable on the rear cross-over, and then adjust its length with a stop bolt in the cross-over or switch. It will not be very easy to do this for the first time, but with proper skill, keep within 15-20 minutes.

Dismantling sequence

Before removing the front wheel from the bike, it is necessary to get rid of the bike itself of all accessories and additional devices, so as not to damage them under the weight of the structure during the dismantling process.

  • We turn the bike upside down, put it on a stand for repair. Or, in the absence of a special rack, simply on a handlebar with a saddle.
  • Now you need to decide on the type of brake system installed on the bike.
  • Disc brakes won’t be a hassle when removing a wheel. The only thing to consider is that hydraulic brakes do not like the inverted position, because air can enter the system. In this case, the brakes will have to be pumped after all the procedures performed with your bike.
  • The rim brakes will need to be unfastened before removing the structure from the mounts. To do this, squeeze the levers with your hands and remove the end of the cable from the clamp, then spread the levers to the sides.
  • The hub axle is attached to the fork by means of an eccentric or nuts. In the first case, you just need to unscrew the eccentric, unscrew and remove the wheel from the ends of the fork, gently pulling it up. In the second, unscrew the nut with a wrench; for convenience, you can hold it with a second wrench during unscrewing.
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After the wheel is removed, you can continue to carry out the necessary work with it, for which it, in fact, was removed.

Removing the front wheel with rim brakes

Place the bike upside down on the saddle and handlebars before removing the wheel. Beforehand, all accessories. mirrors, headlights, bell, decorative elements. should be removed so as not to interfere with work and so as not to damage them. It is advisable to put a soft cloth under the sensitive shifters to avoid damaging them under the weight of the bike.

Briefly, the front wheel is removed according to the scheme:

  • Release the rim brakes.
  • Loosen the attachment to the dropouts.
  • Carefully remove the axle from the legs.

It is necessary to release the brakes in order to easily pull out the wheel and not damage the system. To do this, squeeze the connecting bow and unscrew its fastening with a hex wrench. The brakes are now free. An alternative option is to remove the pads from the brake mechanism, however, after assembling the wheel, they will have to be adjusted again.

Wheel fastening on a bicycle is presented in two versions. nuts for 15 and an eccentric. To remove the axle from the dropouts on the nuts, you will need two keys. one will act as a worker, and the other as a retainer. Unscrew one nut counterclockwise while holding the opposite.

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What can you use? Traditional open-end or spanner wrenches. The second option is even more convenient and easier to grab the nut. Adjustable wrenches with wide lips are not recommended for work, as they can eat the corners of the nuts.

With an eccentric, it is much easier. loosen the bolt and raise the locking lever. If the spring is not weak enough and the lever does not rise fully, loosen the bolt harder. Actually, removing a wheel at home is as easy as shelling pears.

In this section, the topic of removal with V-brakes was touched upon. With discs it is even easier, and even more so with singlespeeds with a kick drum on the rear hub. There is one limitation for a disc brake system with hydraulics. do not keep the bike upside down for too long, as the tubes become airy. That is, the wheel was removed and the bike was returned to its normal state for the time of repair or other manipulations.


The front wheel of a bicycle is a driving unit, without which it is impossible to imagine a bike, perhaps a unicycle. The driven wheel, synchronized with the fork, is responsible for the trajectory of the bike and, to a greater extent, the rolling speed. Unlike the rear wheel, the front wheel is simpler in design, but also requires timely maintenance.

A bicycle, like a car, needs regular maintenance, and the front wheel is one such important component that should not be neglected. Let’s give him a little attention!

Installation sequence

To properly install the front wheel on the bike, you must follow exactly the reverse procedure for removing.

  • We insert the wheel into the grooves of the frame until it stops. Here it is important not to confuse the position of the structure. the direction in which the rotation will occur is indicated by arrows on the tires.
  • We fasten the nuts or eccentrics in place. You cannot overtighten, but the fixation must be strong enough.
  • Fasten back the rim brakes Put the rim brakes in place
  • We turn the bike over to its usual position.

Despite the fact that the front driven wheel is a little simpler in its structure than the rear one, it is still responsible for the course of movement and needs proper care, lubrication of parts, tightening of the spokes.

The rear drive wheel has many mechanisms, but the principle of dismantling and installation is the same, except that it will have to be removed from the chain drive and put the chain in place during installation.

What does the wheel consist of?

Bicycle wheels are the most conservative component. Of course, there are models on cast disks, all-round wheels are put on track models, but they are in the minority. Still, the majority of bicycles are equipped with spoke wheels.

  • ordinary sleeve;
  • rim;
  • connecting knitting needles;
  • rim protective tape (flipper);
  • camera and tire;
  • disc (on models with disc brakes).

The hub is the axial part of the wheel, it is an assembly of the central axle, bearings and tapered retainers. Cone bearing systems are most often mounted on bushings with open bearings. They can also be equipped with sealed bearings or slips.

Rim. supporting structure, metal ring. The rims are made mostly of aluminum, with carbon rims being used on expensive models. In terms of rigidity and power, they are divided into three types:

  • single-walled. the outer and inner surfaces have one line of contact (jumper);
  • double. the inner surface is attached to the sidewalls, separated from the outer;
  • triple. the strongest and most durable option: the inner wall is also fixed to the sidewalls, but, unlike the double rim, the triple has an additional wall in the middle.

Vertical bridges form channels running in the direction of rotation. According to the number of such channels, modern rims are divided into one, three- and five-piece:

Spokes. elements of the connection between the hub and the rim. They perform the functions of securing, distributing loads along the rim and central axis, and mitigating vibrations during movement. The rim is perforated, each hole is designed to hold one spoke. The number of spokes is set on a bicycle wheel in multiples of four. Depending on the model, their number varies. from 28 to 40 on average.

The number of spokes for the front wheel is usually less than the number for the rear. This is due to the fact that the bulk of the load falls on the rear of the bike, and there the wheel must be stronger.

  • standard (rolled). constant circular cross-section along the entire length from the bushing attachment to the tip;
  • aerodynamic (blade-like). elliptical or rectangular profile;
  • variable cross-section (pulled). standard cross-section at the heads and tapering towards the middle.

The inner tube is the inside of the tire that holds the pressurized air inside. Tire. the outer shell that makes contact with the road, absorbs bumps, protects the camera. The tire is made of a harder rubber than the tube.

Rim tape, or flipper, is a rubber lining under the tube to protect it from puncture on the spoke tips. Dynamic loads force the walls of the chamber to bend, which causes them to be pressed against the rim surface. Without a flipper, the chamber can be pushed into the hole with the spoke tip. This problem is more pronounced on the rear wheel, where the loads are higher, but the presence of a flipper is mandatory on the front. The torn tape must be replaced with a new one. A proven homemade option. glue the rim with several layers of electrical tape, except for the hole for the nipple.

How to remove and change a wheel on a bicycle

Bicycle wheels are mounted on the frame: front. on the dropouts of the fork, the rear. on the dropouts of the feathers. Repair, cleaning and lubrication may require removal. There is no need to roll the bike to the service for this occasion, since everyone can remove the wheel from the bike right at home.

Why do you need to dismantle the wheels? As a rule, these are bulkheads of bushings, repair of spokes and rims, cleaning a bicycle and the notorious replacement of tires.


Enter the mark or size (for example: 8227) of the product and the country of sale

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the bearing on the rear wheel hub

The hub (axle) rotates the wheel. It rotates in the presence of a hinge mechanism. It transfers the efforts from the muscular strength of a person and the movement of the bicycle occurs. When the part is worn out, the bike stops moving.

When you determine that the bearing is out of order, it needs to be replaced. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the sleeve.

In the case of a rear wheel, it is more difficult with it. To get to the bushing, you need to remove the cassette together with the sprockets.

If you have a bike with one speed, then you need to remove the retaining ring and sprocket.

I advise you to carefully read the article and replace the bearing yourself. You do not need to contact professional specialists. you will need money. Better save and fix yourself.

You have decided to perform a replacement, then follow the instructions:

Installation is carried out in the same sequence as, and dismantling only the other way around. We pay attention to the installation of all parts without skewing. Backlash is not allowed.

We check the correctness of the bearing replacement. We manually scroll the wheel. If it rotates smoothly and quietly. you did everything right.

Replacing the rear hub bearing on a bicycle with your own hands

After reading this article, you will learn how to replace a failed bearing on the rear hub yourself.

A bearing is a product that ensures the normal operation and fixation of the moving parts of the bicycle.

The specified part is present in all nodes that mate parts with the rotation of the mechanism.

How to make a DIY replacement of the bearing on the rear wheel hub of a bicycle?

Replacing the bearing on the wheel hub is not very problematic.

Although you need a little skill or read my article carefully.

The reasons leading to the failure of the parts are different:

To keep the bearing always in working order, it needs to be maintained. Basically it is necessary to change the grease.

But if a bearing breaks down, it needs to be replaced.

When choosing a new product, you need to focus on the brand of the bike assembly.

By mistakenly installing a bearing that does not correspond to the bicycle‘s passport, you risk your safety when driving.

What are the bearings

Bearings are of different types: sliding and rolling.

The principle of operation of sleeve bearings is when two elements rotate tangentially with respect to each other. A material for manufacturing is used, which has a relatively low coefficient of friction. This is mainly with a bronze and steel component. During operation, a bearing part rubs against another part and a workout is formed in the products.

A distinctive feature of the rolling principle is that they have balls. They are called rolling bodies. These balls are located in the inner rings.

This type of bearing is applicable to the bottom bracket, bushings and headset assemblies of bicycles. The fundamental feature is that there must be strength and abrasion resistance.

Distinguish also parts according to the separation method and industrial use.

In the presence of a separator mechanism, it implies the openness of the part. The device in the separator, each ball is in the groove and is fixed with a cone nut. The assembly is placed directly in the part. The advantage of this design is the relative ease of removal and installation of the bearing. This is especially beneficial for field repairs. Assembly parts can be replaced separately.

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The inconvenience in it lies in the fact that it is necessary to adjust and clean it from dirt quite often.

In the case of an industrial bearing, it is enclosed directly in the space of the assembly. Due to the closed nature of the product from the environment, dirt, dust and water with sand do not get there. The lubricant is retained for a long time, while the service life is extended. There is no need to adjust this bearing. However, if the part fails, then replacement is more difficult. It’s hard to do this in the field. Well, the price is much higher than in the first option.

I would like to mention one more bearing brand that uses ceramics or metal ceramics. This material is highly abrasion resistant and corrosion resistant. Temperature drops are not terrible for him. These bearings are used, as a rule, in expensive bicycles.

The need to replace the bearing

The main task of the bearing is to fix and correctly work the unit.

In this case, the bicycle pedals should rotate smoothly.

The carriage very often fails. This is where the pedals and cranks connect. A bearing failure in this assembly will make driving impossible.

Depending on the type of the carriage of the bicycle, the work of the parts may be different.

When the carriage is closed, sand, dirt, water and dust will not get inside. This does not lead to a decrease in the life of the part.

There is an open caret type. The device is complex. All carriage products are inserted into cups. They, in turn, are in a carriage glass. This is all built into the tube of the bicycle frame. This is how the rotation happens.

The specified type of knot is vulnerable during operation, much more than other parts of the bike.

Therefore, it is necessary to frequently change the bearing.

Let us now consider the purpose of the bearing, its classification and the principle of rotation.

Types of bicycle bearings

According to the type of construction, parts are divided into two types: rolling and sliding.

Rolling bearings are two mating parts with grooves, into which rolling bodies are inserted. balls. Their even distribution helps to minimize friction in the assembly and, consequently, to extend the life of the entire bearing. The fixation of the position of the balls is ensured by special partitions. separators. Simple parts without baffles will require more frequent adjustments.

They are used on a bicycle in movable units where high resistance to abrasion and pressure loads is required and slippage is not allowed. steering column, bushings, carriage. Can also be installed in complex mechanisms. shock absorber hinges and switch rollers.

Plain bearings are ballless parts. They are two elements that rotate tangentially relative to each other. Materials for manufacturing. bronze, steel alloys, metal plastics and everything that has a low coefficient of friction.

Compared to rolling bearings, they are less resistant to abrasion, since the two parts interact directly with each other. Wear causes a gap to appear, which causes backlash. Because of this, periodic replacement of the entire assembly or worn out components, as well as adjustment.

Rolling bearings on bicycles are divided into two types: cone-cup and industrial.

The first. bulk bearings. are open-type parts. They are represented by a cup in which balls are distributed along the groove, fixed with a cone nut. The body is pressed directly into the part itself. the steering column or the bottom bracket.

Prom bearings are closed parts, completely inserted into the movable unit. This is their fundamental difference from bulk. The system is protected from moisture and dirt penetration, resulting in a longer service life compared to cone-cup designs.

Advantages of loose-type rolling bearings:

  • ease of removal and installation;
  • can be adjusted in the field;
  • it is permissible to change components separately.

Disadvantages include frequent adjustments and the need to clean up trapped dust and dirt.

Prom bearings do not require adjustment, lubrication or cleaning. The position of the balls, the amount of lubricant in the closed housing are kept constant. No water or abrasive gets inside the cartridge.

However, if the bearing is worn out, it will need to be replaced entirely. Far from civilization, this is problematic. The price of slurries is significantly higher compared to the cost of bulk.

Ceramic and ceramic-metal bearings should be noted separately. They are completely or partially made of ceramics, due to which they have higher corrosion resistance compared to their metal counterparts. In addition, they are better able to withstand temperature changes. Parts of this type are installed on high-end bicycles.

Replacing wheel hub bearings

The hub is not just a wheel pivot. Without the built-in articulation mechanism, forces would be transmitted unevenly to it, and the bike would not be able to move. The same symptoms appear when the bearings are worn out.

Disassembling the hub is as easy as disassembling a fork. For the rear wheel, the procedure will be slightly more complicated than for the front wheel, since you will first need to remove the sprocket cassette. On a single-speed bike, the retaining ring and the sprocket itself are dismantled.

In general, the disassembly is as follows: 1. Remove the wheels from the dropouts.

Dismantle the sprockets with a cassette puller and a locking whip. On single speed, open the stopper with a screwdriver or a special spreader.

Unscrew the fastening nuts with a 15 wrench. For the rear wheel hub, unscrew the nut on the side opposite to the stars.

Pull out washers and bearing units. Bulk ones are being moved, industrial ones are being replaced by new ones.

Clean parts and replace damaged components.

Pull out the axles, wipe the inner cavities of the bushings.

Reassemble in reverse order. It is important to place the bearings correctly and press the cones in the same way as before disassembly. In no case should it be skewed, the details should exactly fall into their rightful places. It is not advisable to swap them during a bulkhead. This threatens with backlash and deterioration of the wheel travel.

New bearings are selected in advance according to the old ones. they must be the same as they were before the repair. Lubrication is key to bulkhead and replacement (in the case of bulkheads). When installing the seals, the assembly itself does not need to be lubricated, only the inner cavities of the bushing and the axle. After installation, we check the performance of the wheels: smooth running without play and clamps indicates that the parts are installed correctly.

Disassembly and replacement of bearings on the front fork

The wear of the hinge assembly of the fork manifests itself in backlash, heavy steering and extraneous sounds from the speaker. It is not recommended to postpone the problem indefinitely, because the serviceability of the steering, along with the brakes, is a guarantee of safety.

How to change the bearing of the fork? At first glance, getting close to him is not easy. The assembly is securely pressed and hidden in the head tube. However, in practice, everything looks simple:

  • Turn the bike over and unscrew the front wheel.
  • Place the bike in its normal position and pull out the stem (you need a wrench or hex for the inner nut).
  • Unscrew the lock nut with an adjustable wrench and pull out the lock washer.
  • Unscrew the cup.
  • After dismantling the housing, carefully remove the bearing itself. The parts on the forks of most bicycles are not equipped with separators, so we make sure that the balls do not scatter.
  • Inspect all components carefully. Be sure to replace rusty, knocked-out balls with new ones.
  • Clean the glass, bearing and cup from dirt, and then lubricate thoroughly.

The installation of the fork is carried out in the opposite order: after pressing in the bearing, the glass is twisted, then the washer and the lock nut are thrown. Checking the tightness of the glass: when the bike is tilted, the front wheel should deviate from the straight position by 15. 20 degrees. If it practically does not move, it is necessary to loosen the hinge. A large deflection of the wheel indicates a weak tightening, and the glass needs to be tightened.

Maintenance and replacement of carriage bearings

Periodic cleaning, lubrication and replacement of worn parts will help prevent sudden movement problems on your bike. Signs of a faulty carriage condition:

  • clamps in the pedals. difficult rotation or cranking;
  • connecting rods dangle;
  • crunches.

To remove the connecting rods and carriage cups, you will need special tools. pullers and an internal hex wrench. The dismantling process is as follows: 1. Turn over and fix the bike.

Unscrew the retaining nuts with a hollow wrench. You can also use a hammer with a chisel, however, the nuts must be knocked out carefully so as not to damage the connecting rods.

Using a puller, twist them off the axis. It will take a lot of effort here.

Pull the cups out of the glass with a carriage puller. The first is to unscrew the cup from the side opposite to the stars. Then remove the axle.

Remove bearings, inspect and replace damaged parts.

Clean in kerosene, refit and lubricate. When installing, carefully monitor the position: on the one hand, the bearing is placed with balls outward, on the other. inward.

After replacement, cleaning and lubrication, reassemble the carriage in reverse order. After tightening the connecting rods, check their rotation: the lack of effort and cranking indicates that you need to tighten the cups, and vice versa. In these cases, you will have to repeat the disassembly and adjustment.

Prom bearings are installed immediately, no adjustment required.

Varieties and replacement of bicycle bearings

Bearings are special parts for maintaining the performance and fixing rotating assemblies. Their scope applies to everything where there is rotation and mating. The bike did not stand aside, because, in fact, it is a full-fledged transport with all its features.

Bicycle bearings are installed in all parts of the bike that rotate, change position and are under load. They can be found in the drive mechanism. carriage, wheel hubs, steering column and more complex devices. ratchets, switches, rear shock absorbers.

So, the bicycle bearing, as we found out, is the most important part in every moving unit. Its good condition, timely maintenance and replacement will ensure good driving performance and safety of movement.