How to reduce brake lever travel on a bicycle

Installation

Replacement of pads is made when their surface is erased to the level of grooves for outflow of dirt (available on all v-brake pads). Those. the working surface becomes completely flat. over, if this happened only from one edge of the pads, this indicates that they were incorrectly installed. And again they need to be replaced.

Open the brake by bringing the brake levers together with your hand and removing the metal arcuate end of the shirt from the groove, from which the cable comes out (see picture)

If you are putting on simple new pads, then the main thing is to put on all the gaskets and washers that make up the pads fasteners in the required sequence (see the picture) And it is better if you write down or sketch the sequence in which you had them. Sometimes there are left and right pads. This is always indicated on the pads themselves. Do not confuse!

The cartridge pads are even easier to change. They have a metal base and only the rubber pad changes. To do this, remove the locking cotter pin that secures the pad in the shoe and slide out the rubber pad. Do not lose the cotter pin, it does not always come with new pads. Insert new pads and secure with a cotter pin. Do not confuse left and right (see picture) Otherwise you will not be able to fix them.

After replacing the pads, the brakes need to be adjusted.

Actions to check and adjust the brakes

Setting up disc brakes on a bicycle is different from setting up rim brakes because they use different pads and rotating parts. Therefore, we will consider these systems separately.

Customization

The principle of operation of rim brakes is clear, I think to everyone. 2 brake pads located opposite each other parallel to the wheel, between them there is a rim. When you press the brake lever, the pads compress the rim, stopping the wheel. The mechanism is driven by a cable pull.

In order for the brakes to work without failures, you need to monitor the integrity of the cable. If its braid is loose somewhere or at least one fiber breaks, the cable should be replaced. It is important that the cable runs freely in the shirt. And make sure you don’t have eights.

The basis for good brake performance is the correct pressure of the brake pads against the wheel rim. It is regulated by the pad fasteners, which consists of a set of aluminum spacers and a nut on the axle. This kit allows you to fix the last at the desired angle. And to do this, you need to loosen the nut on each pad and firmly clamp the brake. Position the pads so that they are horizontal, touching the rim with their entire surface, but not touching the tire (see picture). And carefully shade the nuts without knocking out the position of the pads. This is true for cartridge pads. For ordinary pads, the rear part of the pads must first be pressed against the rim horizontally (see below). In addition, you need to watch that the brake levers converge in the same way. This is adjusted by the Phillips spring tension screw at the base of the lever.

If when you press the brakes one lever moves weakly, then the screw on this lever should be tightened a little, too easy. unscrew.

All articles in the section on mountain bike repair, cleaning and lubrication.

Repair, adjustment and adjustment of brakes on a bicycle with your own hands

There are two types of brakes on modern bicycles. rim and disc. Which braking system is used on your bike will determine how you adjust the brakes on your bike. As a rule, the brake does not require frequent adjustment, but there are times when adjustment is simply necessary. After all, a reliable brake is the key to your safety.

often than not, adjusting the brakes on a bike means placing the brake pads at the correct distance from the rim or disc and symmetrically to each other. Also, it may be necessary to tighten the cable or adjust the brake lever.

Effective options: how to adjust disc brakes on a bike of any level

High performance retarding units include a hub-mounted rotor and a frame or front fork-mounted machine. When starting a targeted training on how to properly switch speeds on a bicycle with disc brakes, or planning a simple ride, the owner must check:

  • shape and tightening force of the rotor;
  • axles, for bends;
  • the quality of the wheels on the dropouts and the clamping force of the eccentrics;
  • no backlash in bushings.

The disc brake adjustment procedure is carried out in order to:

  • achieving the optimal location of the pads. they should be evenly spaced from the brake disc at a distance of a safe gap (0.5-1 mm), which eliminates the likelihood of rubbing the rotor when turning the wheel during movement;
  • ensuring strict parallelism between the pads and the rotor, which will keep the disk shape flat; selection of the optimal brake actuation moment.

The methodology for asking how to adjust cable disc brakes on a bicycle is based on the following principles:

  • disconnect the cable from the brake assembly;
  • loosen the caliper;
  • screw in the screw that regulates the departure of the fixed shoe until it stops;
  • press the machine against the brake disc, making sure that the inner friction part is completely in contact with the rotor;
  • tighten the screws securing the machine;
  • set a gap of 0.5-1 mm between the brake disc and the fixed shoe;
  • fix the cable;
  • by rotating a special drum or moving the cable in the slots of the caliper with subsequent fixing with a screw, select the optimal moment for blocking the wheel.

You can set up a mechanically driven disc brake in another way: by unscrewing the screws securing the machine, find the position at which the pads are at the same distance from the disc, and fix it.

Important! In a system with a static shoe (cable drive only), it is important to ensure that the disc flexes evenly towards the stationary friction element.

“Hydraulics” works according to a more favorable power scheme. under the influence of fluid pressure, both pads approach the rotor. Therefore, the technology on how to adjust the hydraulic brakes on a bicycle is easier:

  • loosen the screws securing the brake machine;
  • squeeze the brake handle;
  • alternately in small steps (half a turn) tighten the caliper fasteners.

If during rotation the rotor touches one of the friction parts, it is necessary to slightly loosen the brake machine and move it, while maintaining the parallel arrangement of the pads and the rotor.

For your information. After any manipulations with the hydraulic system, it is necessary to bring the pads closer to the disc at the working distance by a series of sharp depressions on the brake lever (about 20 times).

How To Set Up Your Brake Levers

Competent riding technique: how to switch speeds on a bike in different conditions

Considering the technique of enumerating gears from the position of a driver, which aims to increase the resource of transmission operation, two fundamental principles should be noted:

  • the selection of suitable stars should take place with a minimum load on the transmission system;
  • with the resulting gear ratio, the chain misalignment should be minimal (when using 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears in front, rear (for example, on a 24-speed transmission), select a position in the appropriate range: 1-3, 4- 6, 7-8).

Based on this, you can determine how to switch speeds on a bicycle in different conditions:

  • when approaching a mountainous area, you should select a suitable gear ratio in advance (go to lower gears);
  • noticing a sandy or muddy area, you need to shift to higher gears;
  • downshift when approaching any obstacle;
  • when driving actively on busy streets, you should select the optimal ratio that can provide dynamic acceleration.

The choice of gear ratio is also determined by the physiology of the knee joint. the most vulnerable part of the cyclist’s body. Increased stress (low cadence) causes a lot of friction in the knee joint, increasing the risk of failure of the “live joint”. A cadence of 90-110 rpm is optimal for both a loaded “hinge” and for the cyclist’s cardiovascular system.

Varieties of rim brakes

Rim brakes are divided into several types:

  • tick-borne;
  • cantilevers;
  • V-brake (vector mechanical);
  • hydraulically driven.

Caliper brakes. previously popular modifications, are now rare on the market. They are a classic model of rim brakes with attachment to the fork or stays of the bicycle frame. Design features and operating principle:

  • Consist of a handle, a drive cable, two movable bows and brake pads.
  • The handle is attached to the handlebars of the bicycle, a cable is pulled from it and fixed on the clamping side of the arches. The body itself is attached strictly above the wheel, pads are screwed to the lower mounts of the arcs.
  • Through the cable, the force is directly transmitted to the clamping part of the arcs, due to which they are compressed, and the pads are in contact with the rim.
  • Responsible for unclamping is an elastic metal insert or spring built between the levers.

The levers have a single axis of rotation and move towards each other like pliers pincers. Hence the name. tick-borne. Advantages. ease of installation, simple setup. Cons. weak braking force, low modulation, high abrasion of the pads, require frequent debugging. Fits on road racing bikes and optionally as a front rim brake on road models.

Cantilevers belong to the second type of disappearing brakes. The principle of their work is to extend the levers under the action of a taut leash. The principle of operation of the cantilever brake:

  • Through the main cable, the force is transmitted to the jumper.
  • The cable pulls the jumper up, the leash attached to it is pulled.
  • The leash connects both levers, which are rigidly attached to the frame.
  • Due to the convergence of the levers, the pads approach the rim.
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The cantilevers are dirt resistant, will not bump the tire and are easy to install. Significant disadvantages include:

  • decrease in braking force as the leash is pulled;
  • you need to create a high effort to stop the bike completely;
  • difficulty of adjustment.

In justification of the latter, it should be noted that the position of the pads can be adjusted within wide limits.

V-brake is a common type of rim brake on high-speed bicycles. Compared to cantilevers, it has a higher precision and longer shoe longevity. They are also easy to remove and repair yourself.

The vectors are partially similar in design to cantilevers: the front brake levers are bolted to the fork, the rear brake levers are attached to the upper stays. The legs are connected to each other by a pulling cable. The drive cable is brought to one side, but due to the straight shape of the “tie” forces are equally transmitted to both levers.

Hydraulic bicycle rim brakes are a more advanced mechanical model. The drive system consists of a control cylinder, a hydraulic line and power cylinders. The forces from the handle are transmitted to the master cylinder, which, through the oil, acts on the power cylinders. Those, in turn, move the pads towards each other.

Advantages. high compression force and efficiency, excellent modulation. Disadvantages. deterioration of work with a blockage of the hydraulic line, complex repairs. Used a similar type of brakes for freeride and trial.

Rim-type brakes have low brake pad travel, which means they wear less during operation. A significant disadvantage of this approach is the inability to be used on wheels, even with minor rim curvatures. Sensitive brakes will rub against the wheel on the fly, causing reduced speed and increased pad wear.

How to adjust the brakes v brake on a bike

The braking system is one of the most important technical components of a bicycle. The safety of both the cyclist and other road users directly depends on its condition. Good brakes are essential in any situation, from riding in parks to tough cycling.

In the modern classical sense, a bicycle brake is a pressure mechanism that acts on the wheel rim. In fact, there are several types of brakes, however v-brake (rim) is the most common option on bicycles of various classes.

Braking system characteristics

The following terms are used to qualitatively describe the operation of rim brakes:

  • impact force;
  • efficiency;
  • wear resistance;
  • modulation;
  • service requirements;
  • comparative features.

Force of impact, or braking, is a parameter that shows how much the brake can clamp the rim so that the bike cannot be moved. Maximum effort is only required to completely stop and lock in place. On the road, the effort is not fully used to adjust the speed. The range of action on the wheel rim by pressing the handle is called modulation, or accuracy, of the brakes.

An active cyclist uses his transport not only in dry and cloudless weather. Rain, mud, sand. everyone who rolls out their bike on long trips will have to face this. The effectiveness of brakes allows you to describe their behavior in a wide variety of conditions.

Durability is a measure of durability, taking into account the prescriptions for the use of the bicycle as a whole. Timely maintenance can increase the service life of the braking system. Service Requirements provide guidance on how to properly install and adjust the machine, how often to do this, and guidance on how to replace parts.

How to install and adjust the V-brake yourself

After installation, you will definitely need to adjust the brakes.

The accuracy of the mechanism depends largely on its settings. So, even an expensive system will not work well without proper adjustment, and conversely, a mid-range V-brake can outperform a disc brake in terms of efficiency. What needs to be done to adjust the brakes?

Adjust the cable tension. After adjusting, the brake should instantly respond to the squeeze of the handle and rebound when it is released. If the pads do not move away from the rims, this indicates insufficient tension. On the overtightened cable, the handle will be hard to press, and the sheath may burst.

The tension is adjusted with a bolt on the side of the levers. The setup looks like this:

  • Reset Springs.
  • Loosen the cable fixing bolt.
  • Adjust the tension so that in the fully clamped position, the distance from the handle to the handlebar corresponds to the thickness of the finger.

If damage has been noticed on the cable sheath, it is recommended to immediately install a new set.

Clearance adjustment. The optimal distance is 2. 3 mm from the edge of the pad to the rim. Determination of brake pad wear: cannot be used when the diverter grooves are completely erased (the whole surface is flat).

How do I fit new pads? The location relative to the rim affects the size of the contact area of ​​the pads with it, the braking force and the life of the material. For brake pads with soft rubber surfaces, install them with the leading edge closer to the rim. Brake pads made of rigid material are placed strictly parallel to the surface of rotation of the wheel.

If your bike has cartridge pads, you only need to change the pads. Their position is set with a cotter pin; before removing the old surface, it is removed from the body. Similarly, in the reverse order, insert a new pad and fix it with a cotter pin.

Adjustment of the position and displacement of the shoe housings are carried out by means of a bolt and washers. For accurate fixation, you need to squeeze the brake and set the position of the pads strictly on the surface of the rim.

The last step will be to test the operation of the system in practice, that is, in real driving conditions. As a rule, the V-brake setting is obtained immediately. However, if braking is delayed or the handle does not fully return to its original position, the brakes must be readjusted.

Setting up the brakes means paying attention to every detail, from the brake levers to the brake pads.

First step. Adjusting the brake levers

Brake levers should be located so that they can be reached quickly and comfortably. In order to adjust the position of the brake lever, loosen the fastening screw, place the handle as it is convenient for you and fix it. Usually there is a screw on the brake lever, with which you can adjust the distance of the brake lever to the grip. adjust the position of the lever with it.

Second step. Position of the brake pads

It is easier to adjust the position of the brake pads as follows: press one of the pads with your hands close to the rim, adjust its position. Make sure that the block is not too low (the edge of the block is below the rim), but also not too high. the block touches the tire.

I would like to draw special attention to the next moment, since there is little clear written about it. Until the nut of which the shoe is fixed is not tightened, the shoe has three degrees of freedom: the washers form something like a ball joint. (Pay attention to how many washers are there? That’s what they are for!). It is believed that the leading edge of the pads should touch the rim slightly earlier than the rear. Therefore, we do this: put a small gasket under the rear end (see fig).

This number of washers is needed to get something like a ball joint

Now you can tighten the nut that fixes the shoe.

Step three. Centering the positions of the levers

At this step, you need to fix the brake cable: so that the brake pads touch the rims at least a little if you press the brake lever. At the bottom of the levers there are special bolts that adjust the tension of the springs that press the pads against the rim.

We set it up as follows: press the brake and see which of the pads touches earlier. For the one that touched earlier, we increase the spring tension (or vice versa, weaken it on the other side). It is necessary to ensure that the pads touch the rim at the same time.

Fourth step. Adjusting the distance from the pads to the rim

I believe that this distance should be as small as possible. (1-2 mm. If the rim is even). But then the brakes will work very sharply. the slightest pressure leads to sharp braking. Therefore, the distance can be made a little more.

The distance is adjusted in two steps: first, due to the screw with which the cable is attached to the brakes. Then fine tuning on the brake lever.

The large washer acts as a lock: when it is tightened, the cable tension adjustment screw cannot be turned.

It should be noted right away that the adjustment of the brake pads should be started by checking if there are eights and other traces of falls and jumps on the wheel, since if the rim geometry is broken, it will be very difficult to adjust the correct position of the pads.

During each braking action, the brake pads are subjected to tremendous stress and, of course, gradually wear out. Therefore, it is required from time to time to adjust the distance between them and the rim so that the pads “move away” from it, but at the same time were not too far.

This is done in the following way: there is a special adjusting wheel on the brake lever (indicated by number 1 in the figure below), by turning which you can adjust the required position. If you rotate clockwise. the distance between the pads increases, counterclockwise. decreases. It is worth noting that there is also a lock washer (2) that fixes the position of the ring (1), and if necessary, it must be loosened before adjusting, and then tightened.

If, due to this, it is not possible to establish the correct position, then it is necessary to change the length of the brake cable. To do this, loosen the screw with the hexagon, select the required cable length and tighten the screw, as shown in the figures below.

If you notice that the brake pads touch the rim in a strange way, do not touch at all or are erased unevenly, then you need to perform the operations described below.

The first step is to loosen the hex nut, as shown in the figure:

Now the block is freely adjustable in all directions, and you can search for the desired position. The main task is to ensure that it adheres to the rim with its entire surface during braking and does not touch the tire. To find this position, press the brake, see how the shoe touches the rim, release the brake, adjust the shoe with your hand and repeat this operation until the desired result is achieved. When everything is ready, we tighten the pad mount and repeat the same steps with the second.

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After that, it is necessary to adjust the position of both pads relative to the rim (before that we adjusted each separately). Here it is necessary to watch that after braking the pads “move away” from the rim at the same distance. If this is not the case, then it is necessary to adjust the stiffness of the return spring by rotating a special adjusting screw (its type can be different: for a hexagon, for a Phillips screwdriver, or, in rare cases, for a wrench) If you turn clockwise, the block moves away from the rim more strongly, counterclockwise. weaker. Thus, by changing the position of these screws on both pads, the correct position can be found.

At the last stage, it is worthwhile to check the functioning of the brakes again, and if something is wrong, repeat the corresponding points.

Adjusting the rim brakes on a bicycle isn’t tricky. This type of brakes on modern bicycles is only slightly different from those that could be seen on the latest models of the Urals.

Let’s start by checking if the brake pads are installed correctly. When you press the brake, the shoe must completely rest on the surface of the rim, i.e. do not hang from it, but do not touch the tire. Please note that when the brake is released (not pressed) the pads are on the same mowing line with the edge of the rubber, and it will seem to you that they will touch the tire when pressed, in fact, the pads will be pressed against the rim much lower than it seems (this is due to moving them in an arc). Control the height and, importantly, the angle of rotation of the shoe around the bolt that fixes it, precisely when the brakes are flattened.

You need a hexagon to work with the pads. For convenience, disengage the brake levers. This is done simply: the levers are compressed by hand, and the cable attachment is pushed up with a finger.

Lower, raise or rotate the shoe if necessary. When tightening the pad bolt, a problem of the following nature often arises: on the last revolution, the pad begins to turn with the bolt. This is often due to the use of engraving discs in this mount. In no case should you remove the engraving washers, but hold the block with your hand or press it firmly against the rim, there should be enough effort to keep it in place.

Before the next action we engage the brake, I think “how” and “why” should not comment.

Now you need to adjust the distance from the pads to the rim. Let’s start with the adjusting bolt, it is located on the shifter (the block on the steering wheel that is responsible for gear shifting). If you have a flat, not bent rim, then feel free to tighten the adjusting bolt to the end, but if the rim is not even, I advise you to leave the bolt in the middle position, this will make it possible to adjust the brake in both directions, i.e. tension and relaxation. Don’t forget about the counter nut. All manipulations with the adjusting bolt and locknut are done by hand. no tools.

Now that the adjusting bolt is in the desired position, you can start adjusting the brake spread. Unscrew the brake cable mount with a hexagon. Do not twist the mount too much, otherwise it will be difficult for you to fine-tune the tension.

Holding the brake levers with our hands, we achieve such a tension in which the pads (in a diluted state) are 2-3 mm from the rim. We check that the cable shirt has not jumped out of the mount anywhere (in this case, the setting will get lost when the shirt is returned to its place) and tighten the mount.

Do not forget about the adjusting bolt after tensioning the cable. If you have a straight rim, you can always tighten the brakes weakened due to straining of the pads or loosening of the cable. If you bent the rim, the adjusting bolt will help you find the optimal brake tension at which the set pads do not cling to the rim, but the force created during the mixing is sufficient for braking.

Next, you need to achieve the desired, but often (especially on cheap brakes) unattainable result: uniform opening of the pad levers when the brake is released. You have set the required distances from the rim to the pads and now they are the same on both sides, but after the first pressing and releasing the brake, you will most likely find that the pads are not evenly spread, i.e. one block is still pressed against the rim, and the other is too far apart. At high speed, this phenomenon is not scary. the block will still be thrown back by the rim, but at low speed it can cause an unpleasant squeak.

The levers are returned to their original (diluted) position by means of springs, the tension of which is regulated by special bolts (they are located at the base of the levers).

By screwing in the bolt, you transfer more force to the lever, which returns it to its original position. The recipe is simple. we tighten the bolts to the middle and begin to adjust by pressing and releasing the brake. Some make adjustments on the disengaged brake, so to speak, “measuring” the force. with their hands they bring and spread the levers, determining by changing the degree of spring tension.

reduce, brake, lever, travel

How to adjust bike brakes

The history of the invention and evolution of the two-wheeled vehicle, called the bicycle today, goes back several centuries. Although the date of his birth is considered to be 1817, when the first scooter two-wheeled transport was patented by the German inventor Karl von Drez, many believe that the bicycle was invented much earlier. The invention was gradually improved: first, the saddle and the steering wheel appeared, later the inventors added pedals that push the rear wheel, and rubber tires appeared. When did the bike get brakes? Only in 1898 was the problem of braking solved. At first, pedal brakes came into use, later hand brakes were also widely used.

Adjusting the brakes on a bicycle

To fix a rear brake on a bicycle, you need to know what kind of braking system is installed on the vehicle. Many models are equipped with disc brakes, which do not require frequent adjustments, but do not do without adjustment. To tighten the disc brakes, you need to adjust the travel of the brake lever, which can be found on the handlebars of the bicycle, at the first stage of maintenance. If, when you press on it, you marked too much travel, the cable must be pulled. For this, the installation bolts are removed, the fastening screw is unscrewed and tightened.

When the pads start to wear out, it’s time to replace them. To change the brakes on a bicycle, it is important to take your time and follow all the steps of this technologically simple process. First, the brake opens, for which the levers are brought together. An iron tip is removed from the formed groove, from which the cable comes out. Next, the old pads are removed. It is important to remember here in what sequence the fasteners are used. After installing the new pads in place in the same sequence as they were removed, the fasteners are installed.

Disc brakes: symptoms of the problem

Modern models of two-wheeled vehicles are equipped with one of two types of brakes: disc or hydraulic. Disc brakes do not require constant adjustment, but after a long period of inactivity of the bicycle, the first symptoms of the problem appear, many are wondering how to adjust the disc brakes on a bicycle. Signs of a problem may include:

  • long-term idle time of the bicycle, when it is not used for more than one month, is idle in cold storage conditions;
  • a new bike, the mechanisms of which require running-in;
  • the mechanism emits uncharacteristic sounds: knocking, humming, creaking or whistling, which is evidence of problems with the mechanical components or the bicycle block;
  • the brakes do not work. a clear sign of problems with the cables or the hydraulic system;
  • mechanical damage to mechanisms.

Setting up hydraulic brakes on a bike

Signs that there is a problem with the hydraulic brakes may be the vehicle braking on its own due to air entering the system. The cause of the malfunction may also be the incorrect operation of the working piston, which is provoked by the ingress of water into the hydraulic system. Hydraulic brakes need to be repaired if the handle stops bouncing or stops responding to rider commands.

To determine the cause of the problem, the brake machine must be cleaned of dirt, which can be done with a regular toothbrush. When access to the pistons of the system opens, using a screwdriver, press on the brake lever. This will push both pistons forward. If one of the pistons is seized, work is to be done to eliminate the malfunction. The piston system should also be inspected for leaks, which can be repaired by replacing the pistons or o-rings. At the final stage of diagnostics, an inspection of the hydraulic mowing line is carried out, on which there should be no deformations, dents or kinks. If any are found, they need to be replaced.

How To Set Up And Adjust Your Brake Levers | GCN Maintenance Monday

How to bleed hydraulic brakes on a bike? There are many ways to do this. A simple operation that allows you to expel air from the system can be performed at home.

Serving disc brakes on a bicycle

Bicycle brake. the part of the bicycle designed to regulate (slow down) the speed of its movement. The brakes are responsible for safety. Before each ride, check the operation of each brake separately.

Serving disc brakes on a bicycle

Modern disc brakes on bicycles have proven their reliability and braking power, as evidenced by their proliferation in all cycling disciplines from road to downhill bicycles, as well as in urban and tourism bicycles.

Disc brakes are hydraulic and mechanical. They differ in the design of the transfer of energy from the handle to the caliper. Mechanical brakes transmit energy through a conventional braided brake cable, while hydraulic energy transfers fluid from the handle. Mechanical brakes are very reliable and easy to repair, but they have less power. only one pad works.

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Despite their power and performance in muddy and watery conditions, these brakes require periodic maintenance. The maintenance of disc brakes includes the following points:

Checking the brake disc and brake pads for wear.

The wear of the pads depends on the conditions and in what area the brakes are used, the more often moisture gets on the brakes and especially dirt with sand, the faster the pads wear out. A brake disc, as a rule, has a long service life and wears out only when the pads are worn out to the limit. Most often, the brake disc suffers from curvature. side impacts from a fall can easily bend it. Also, the disc bends from uneven heating and from sudden efforts during braking. Small distortions can be corrected with special tools. When worn out, the pads must be replaced with new ones. Most brake pads are easy to change, no need to remove the wheel on the bike when replacing.

Bleeding the brakes must be done in several cases, in the first case, preventive. As a rule, this is necessary so that the brake fluid does not boil. this will lead to a sharp decrease in braking force. In the brakes Shimano and Magura run on mineral oil, which is colored red by Shimano, while Magura’s blue is specially made to indicate if the color has become transparent or cloudy, it means that the fluid does not meet the requirement and it should be changed by pumping the brakes. Third-party brakes use the same brake fluid found in cars and motorcycles. The second case when it is necessary to bleed the brakes is a situation in which the handle travel has increased and the brake power has dropped. In this situation, air has entered the hydraulic brake system. To remove air, the brake system must be pumped with new fluid.

The most common reason for cleaning brakes is braking noise. As a rule, this is caused by oils, aggressive cleaning agents and other chemicals on the brake surface of the pads and brake disc. There are special products for cleaning the brake system, but the brake disc can be cleaned with degreasers or alcohol. The pads can be cleaned by heating in an open flame or an industrial hair dryer.

Serving disc brakes on a bicycle

Bicycle brake. the part of the bicycle designed to regulate (slow down) the speed of its movement. The brakes are responsible for safety. Before each ride, check the operation of each brake separately.

Bicycle brake. the part of the bicycle designed to regulate (slow down) the speed of its movement. The brakes are responsible for safety. Before each ride, check the operation of each brake separately.

Serving disc brakes on a bicycle

Modern disc brakes on bicycles have proven their reliability and braking power, as evidenced by their proliferation in all cycling disciplines from road to downhill bicycles, as well as in urban and tourism bicycles.

Disc brakes are hydraulic and mechanical. They differ in the design of the transfer of energy from the handle to the caliper. Mechanical brakes transmit energy through a conventional braided brake cable, while hydraulic energy transfers fluid from the handle. Mechanical brakes are very reliable and easy to repair, but they have less power. only one pad works.

Despite their power and performance in muddy and watery conditions, these brakes require periodic maintenance. The maintenance of disc brakes includes the following points:

Checking the brake disc and brake pads for wear.

The wear of the pads depends on the conditions and in what area the brakes are used, the more often moisture gets on the brakes and especially dirt with sand, the faster the pads wear out. A brake disc, as a rule, has a long service life and wears out only when the pads are worn out to the limit. Most often, the brake disc suffers from curvature. side impacts from a fall can easily bend it. Also, the disc bends from uneven heating and from sudden efforts during braking. Small distortions can be corrected with special tools. When worn out, the pads must be replaced with new ones. Most brake pads are easy to change, no need to remove the wheel on the bike when replacing.

Bleeding the brakes must be done in several cases, in the first case, preventive. As a rule, this is necessary so that the brake fluid does not boil. this will lead to a sharp decrease in braking force. Shimano and Magura brakes run on mineral oil, which is colored red by Shimano, while Magura’s blue is specially made to indicate if the color becomes transparent or cloudy, it means that the fluid does not meet the requirement and it should be changed by pumping the brakes. Third-party brakes use the same brake fluid found in cars and motorcycles. The second case when it is necessary to bleed the brakes is a situation in which the handle travel has increased and the brake power has dropped. In this situation, air has entered the hydraulic brake system. To remove air, the brake system must be pumped with new fluid.

reduce, brake, lever, travel

The most common reason for cleaning brakes is braking noise. As a rule, this is caused by oils, aggressive cleaning agents and other chemicals on the brake surface of the pads and brake disc. There are special products for cleaning the brake system, but the brake disc can be cleaned with degreasers or alcohol. The pads can be cleaned by heating in an open flame or an industrial hair dryer.

How to adjust everything yourself

It may be necessary to adjust the hydraulic brakes if you notice extraneous sounds while driving. creaking or rustling. A simple test will help to make sure that the adjustment is necessary: ​​lift the wheel of the bicycle and spin it. If the pads touch the brake disc, the wheel will quickly stop spinning.

The relative position of the pads and the rotor must be very accurate, because this affects the performance of the brake. To check the position of the disc in the typewriter and the position of the pads, place a white sheet under them and, if necessary, direct a bright light on it. against such a background it is easier to notice deviations.

Adjust the hydraulic brake as follows: 1. Loosen the caliper mounting bolts as much as possible so that it can move freely to the sides.

Squeeze the brake lever so that the pads are fully pressed against the rotor.

Check the position of the pad valves. they should be symmetrical, at the same distance from the rotor. Move the caliper slightly to the left or right if necessary.

Without releasing the brake lever, tighten the caliper mounting bolts.

Release the handle and check the brakes. Ideally, the pads should be at a minimum distance from the brake disc, but not touching it.

If you notice that one pad is located closer to the disc than the other, but the rotor itself is perfectly centered in the machine, do the following (preferably two people): press the disc against the more protruding pad and apply a little brake. Due to the fact that one valve works more than the other, they will align, and the problem will be eliminated.

The final touch is to set the position of the brake lever relative to the steering wheel. Sitting in the saddle, check if you feel comfortable using the brake lever and if you can quickly press it in an emergency. If the knob is too far for you, tighten the adjusting hex a little more. this will bring the knob closer, but at the same time the pads will move closer to the rotor. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not to make the stroke of the pads too small.

Adjusting the bike’s hydraulic brakes and replacing the pads

The principle of operation of hydraulic brakes on a bicycle is to transfer pressure through the hydraulic line from the brake master cylinder to the brake cylinder in the caliper, which in turn moves the pads. The brake fluid is not compressed, therefore such a system is more reliable and efficient than a mechanical one.

On the other hand, hydraulic lines and the entire braking system require careful attention and constant maintenance, and therefore repairing and adjusting hydraulic brakes often seems to be a difficult task.

Replacing the brake pads

Poor operation of hydraulic disc brakes may be due to the following reasons:

  • damage or contamination of the hydraulic line or ingress of air into it;
  • complete abrasion of the brake pads;
  • dirty pads or disc.

In the first case, replacement of the hydraulic line or bleeding of the hydraulic brake is required, with the second and third cases it is easier to deal with.

First, take a close look at the brake pads. All manufacturers prescribe their minimum thickness, at which the braking performance does not decrease. By the way, the uneven wear of the left and right pads indicates that the rotor is not centered relative to the caliper.

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As the pads wear out, the valves move closer to the rotor, so before installing new pads, you should slightly move them apart and re-adjust their position. The entire replacement procedure consists of the following sequence of steps: 1. Place the bike on a repair stand and remove the wheel.

Remove the retaining ring and unscrew the fixing bolt.

Pull out the old pads away from the wheel hub axle. Remember the location of the return spring between the pads. it releases them after the end of braking.

Thoroughly clean the surface of the valves and the inside of the caliper. Use a lint-free technical cloth and a mild cleaner such as isopropyl alcohol.

Using a plastic lever, such as a tube changer, press both valves into the caliper. To install the valve correctly, you need to press on its center, not on the edge.

Install a return spring between the new pads and insert them into the machine.

Tighten the fixing bolt and install the retaining ring.

Clean the brake disc and replace the wheel. Check the correct position of the rotor, pads and the functionality of the entire system.

New pads may require a period of “adaptation”, so at first, the updated brakes should be used carefully.

it should be said that all work should be done with clean hands. Also, to keep the brakes less dirty, you should close them when lubricating the chain. With a comprehensive bike service, the brake system is repaired last.