How to put the rear wheel on a speed bike

Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing

A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already squeaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it’s time to remove it and inspect the hub.

The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, the parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the bearings of the hub, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.

The reverse gear is removed using a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is a short-lived affair, but it will take a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:

  • The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
  • The whip holds the large star of the system so that it does not turn.
  • With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
  • We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.

Before disassembling the hub, you should slightly loosen the spoke tension. This can be done using a round key with knocked out holes for different diameters of the knitting needles. You need to loosen a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.

A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wear under dynamic loads.

Speed ​​bike rear hub diagram

The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.

When to remove the rear wheel

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:

  • noticeable damage to the rim;
  • complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
  • a flat tire or a burst tire;
  • bulkhead bushing.

This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.

Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end wrenches or box wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.

Disc brakes

Bicycles using disc brakes on the hub need special attention. Wheel disc brakes (Dual Pivot, Linear Pull, Cantilever, Sidepull, etc.) generally do not use significant axle pressure. Disc brake systems are fork mounted and apply a load to the rotor that is attached to the hub.

There is an external hub axle load which tends to push the axle out of the frame pad. It is especially important to secure the pin properly in disc brake systems.

Dismantling sequence

First, remove all unnecessary items from the bike that may be on it. And it is also better to unscrew all kinds of mirrors, flashlights and other little things that can be damaged during work.

  • We turn the bike upside down, put it on the handlebar and seat. You can do without a special rack for repairing a bicycle, the main thing is to give it a stable position.
  • We find out the type of brakes installed for further action. As usual, these are disc or rim brakes:
  • disc brake. It will make it easier to remove the wheel;
  • The rim brake of the V-brake type must first be released and removed, otherwise further dismantling of the wheel will no longer be possible. (It is not difficult to release the brakes, for this you need to move the cable to the side of the fastening screw, move the levers, removing the end of the cable from the clamp, lower it down and spread the brake levers to the sides).
  • Then we act depending on the type of fastening of the rear wheel to the bicycle axle. We unscrew the nuts with a wrench (one or two) or, if the mount is a disc eccentric, unscrew the brake lever and twist the wheel.
  • The chain passing through the gearshift system is neatly removed from the sprockets.

The wheel is removed. Now you can carry out all the necessary further manipulations: replacement, adjustment, lubrication of parts.

Removing wheels

If possible, start by setting up your bike. It should be installed on the left side when removing the rear wheel. Do not stand the bike in an upright position without the rear wheel, as this may damage the rear derailleur.

Rear Wheels: Set the derailleur to the outer gear and the inner front wheel chain. This will loosen the chain and the wheel will be easier to remove.

Disconnect the brake rim, if equipped. The release mechanisms of typical MTB and road brakes are shown below.

Note: Disconnect pads are not required with disc brakes. Also, with hydraulic disc brakes, do not squeeze the brake lever when removing the disc from the bike. Otherwise, the pads will close and it will be very difficult for you to put the wheel back on the bike. Use a specially designed spacer such as PP-1.2 if needed.

  • Eccentric mechanism for securing the axles of the wheels: pull the lever of this mechanism outward to the end. If necessary, loosen the quick release of the adjusting nut to remove any projections on the end of the fork.
  • Straight axle: some functions are the same as the axle of the eccentric mechanism for securing the axles of the wheels. pull the lever outward to disengage and twist to loosen. Some straight axles are equipped with a special device that should weaken the axle. However, other simple levers that are needed to loosen or tighten are not used.
  • Solid axle: on wheel axles with nuts, both nuts must be loosened from the outside.
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On the front wheel. just point the wheel down and out of the fork. For rear wheels, pull on the rear derailleur so the screws clear the chain. Lower the wheel by guiding it down through the brake pads and forward to clean the chain and gearshift mechanism.

Some gearshift mechanisms have a clutch mechanism that makes them difficult to turn. They have functions that make it easy to remove the wheel.

  • To engage the SRAM shift mechanism, move the lower roller forward to loosen the chain and press the button to lock it in place.
  • To engage the Shimano shift mechanism, you need to find the on / off lever and move it to the inoperative position.
  • Replacing the bike camera

    To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which is more often the case with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

    Change Your Rear Bike Wheel Like a Pro. Bicycle Tips

    To remove the tire, you need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with an ordinary screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to tighten, you need to pry the sides a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

    You need to tighten it very carefully so as not to damage the rim, you should not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

    Attention! The camera must lie flat, without kinks, otherwise you will have to reinstall it. There must be a flipper at the bottom of the rim to protect it from the spokes. If it is torn, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of thin electrical tape.

    From above, the outer part of the tire is put on the rim, this time from the side of the nipple. When installing the tire, the correct direction of the tread pattern must be taken into account. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bike, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. However, the rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.

    When to remove the rear wheel

    It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:

    • noticeable damage to the rim;
    • complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
    • a flat tire or a burst tire;
    • bulkhead bushing.

    This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.

    Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, a bell and a lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and disassembled, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.

    I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two wrenches.

    Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end wrenches or box wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.

    How to disassemble or reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike

    Removing the wheels from the frame is part of a mandatory bicycle maintenance procedure. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of deformation of the rim, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or even the entire tire, as well as wear of the sprocket system for the rear wheel.

    Experienced cyclists welcome self-repairing wheels, and it is no coincidence: it’s cheaper, and you will gain skills. You can also go to a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. over, the service is hardly located under the windows of the house, so the bike will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.

    rear, wheel, speed, bike

    Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing

    A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already squeaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it’s time to remove it and inspect the hub.

    How to Remove and Install a Wheel on a Bicycle

    The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, the parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the bearings of the hub, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.

    The reverse gear is removed using a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is a short-lived affair, but it will take a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:

    • The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
    • The whip holds the large star of the system so that it does not turn.
    • With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
    • We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.

    Before disassembling the hub, you should slightly loosen the spoke tension. This can be done using a round key with knocked out holes for different diameters of the knitting needles. You need to loosen a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.

    READ  How to clean disc brakes on a bicycle

    A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wear under dynamic loads.

    The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.

    Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike

    A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembling, replacing, lubricating or adjusting. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.

    Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.

    The cassette is put on the sleeve in the following order:

    • main stars;
    • single stars, small stars;
    • tightening the cassette mechanism with a whip.

    All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to twist the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!

    Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are to a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.

    How to remove the rear wheel of a bike.

    In theory, all riders and cyclists know how to remove the rear wheel of a bicycle. But what to do in conditions close to combat, when 35 minutes are left before the train leaves, and the rear wheel is lowered 10 kilometers from the station. I advise you, dear colleagues and readers, to always carry with you, in addition to a gentleman’s set of hexagons, assemblies, Teflon, a pump and a spare chamber, a cloth and a package of wet wipes. Believe me, it is much more pleasant to hold the wheel of a bicycle with clean hands than with dirty hands. So, you have an urgent need to remove the rear wheel of your bike. First, place the chain over the smallest sprocket on the rear wheel. Remove anything from the steering wheel that might break when you put the bike upside down. Remove the backpack from the trunk, if there is one, of course. Disengage the rear brake if you have rim brakes (V-brakes). If you are big and strong, just place the bike upside down. If you are more fragile, do it in two steps: first place the bike “on the left side”, then grab the frame and front fork and turn it upside down. Open and loosen the eccentric or unscrew the fixing nuts, make sure that the wheel is “loose” (perhaps the disengaged brakes will not be enough, you will have to release the pressure in the chamber). Using a cloth, grasp the rear derailleur from the frame, pull the chain back to free the sprockets; with the other hand, pull the wheel out of the dropouts. the “ears” of the rear stays. After you have done all the necessary manipulations with the removed wheel, it must be returned to its native rear triangle. We insert the wheel between the feathers, while the sprockets should be inside the chain ring. Gently (again, through a rag) tilt the switch frame towards the steering wheel so that the chain looses and the wheel falls into the dropouts; at the same time, we make sure that the chain wraps around the small sprocket of the gear block, and then goes into the switch frame (you can just push the wheel, but the first time it is not always possible to find the desired angle). If you have disc brakes, check that the disc fits into the caliper slot (a device that, when you press the brake lever, grips the disc with the brake pads). Make sure the wheel axle on both sides is fully engaged in the dropouts. Make sure the chain is in the correct position. Spin the pedals; if you notice that the wheel is rubbing against the frame, correct the skew. Tighten the nuts, close the eccentric. Flip the bike over, engage the brakes, make sure the pads are in the correct alignment with the rim and grip the rim firmly. If necessary, pump up the wheel, adjust the position of the brake pads. You can collect the tool, hang a backpack, fix the removed bells and whistles on the steering wheel and start off. If you are not interested in how to remove the front wheel of a bicycle, you can skip reading. But believe me, removing the front wheel of a bicycle yourself is no less exciting than the rear one. The principle is similar. remove, unfasten, turn over, open, loosen, deflate; doing the reverse doesn’t involve fiddling with the chain. The front wheel can be removed and re-positioned while the bike is “lying on its side”. Be sure to check the engagement of the axle in the dropouts and the operation of the brakes! The main thing is not to forget to rub your hands later! Why do you carry this incredible weight with you. a package of wet wipes.

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    General procedure for installing a bicycle

    Two receptions

    There are two techniques used to remove and install a bicycle wheel:

    • emergency removal and installation in place, without its complete disassembly. It is used in case of damage (puncture, cut) of a bicycle tube or tire, for their repair or replacement. In this case, all units and parts hung on it. the brake rotor of disc brakes, cassette or ratchet. are not removed, they remain on the bicycle during the entire period of repair work.
    • removal and installation with complete disassembly. It is used when you need to repair or replace the wheel rim, partially or completely replace the spoke set, wheel hub, or send the bicycle for storage in a closet or garage. In this case, you should disassemble both the front and rear wheel of the bicycle. remove the brake rotor, cassette (ratchet), tire and camera. This can be considered a partial disassembly. And in the case of major repairs, you will have to completely dismantle the spoke set and wheel hub, which will already be considered a complete disassembly. Before installing such a disassembled bicycle wheel, you should assemble it together with all the assemblies and parts hung on it.
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    How to remove and install a wheel

    How to remove and put on (install, put) a wheel on a bicycle, front or rear? It seems to be a ridiculous question for an experienced cyclist. But, note, in addition to experienced cyclists, there are also inexperienced.

    So how is it? Everything seems to be simple. let the clamping nuts on the wheel axle, or in general a quick-release eccentric. and that’s it. But for an inexperienced bike enthusiast, the devil is in the details, and there are a lot of such details here.

    Features of removing and installing bicycle wheels

    The peculiarities of removing and installing bicycle wheels are determined by the design features of the brake systems and bicycle transmission used. Since only the drive rear wheel interacts with the transmission of the bicycle, it is usually somewhat more difficult to remove and reinstall it than the front one. Assemble the rear wheel of a bicycle together with attachments and parts (cassette or ratchet, brake rotor) before installing it on the bicycle.

    • On bicycles with single speed single speed hubs or multi-speed planetary hubs that use drum brakes, when removing the rear wheel, disconnect the brake lever mount from the rear right dropout (usually a bolt and nut). When installing the rear wheel in place, respectively, screw the brake lever back to its mount.
    • In the case of a multi-speed planetary hub. when removing the rear wheel, you must also disconnect the bowden cable that controls the gear change (when installing it, connect the control bowden back).
    • In the case of using rim brakes (vibrating racks, tick-borne) both on the rear and front wheels. you should open them with your hands and remove (insert) the removed (installed) wheel from engagement (into engagement) with brake pads.
    • In the case of using disc brakes on both the rear and front wheels, in parallel with the withdrawal (insertion) of the wheel axle of the hub from (in) the dropouts, follow the careful withdrawal (insertion) of the brake rotor from (to) its place between the brake pads into brake mechanism. calliper. Remove the wheel carefully enough so that the brake rotor does not bend.
    • If it is a motor-wheel of an electrically driven bicycle (electric bike), then to remove (install) it, disconnect (connect) the power cable from the battery. For the rest, the motor wheel should be removed and installed as well, in compliance with the same rules and requirements as an ordinary bicycle.

    Removing and installing bicycle wheels

    This article will guide you through removing and installing front and rear bicycle wheels.

    Additional Information

    Disc brakes

    Bicycles using disc brakes on the hub need special attention. Wheel disc brakes (Dual Pivot, Linear Pull, Cantilever, Sidepull, etc.) generally do not use significant axle pressure. Disc brake systems are fork mounted and apply a load to the rotor that is attached to the hub.

    There is an external hub axle load which tends to push the axle out of the frame pad. It is especially important to secure the pin properly in disc brake systems.

    rear, wheel, speed, bike

    Wheel installation

    The wheels must be properly fitted to the bike frame. Misalignment can lead to problems with shifting and adjusting the bike. If the wheel is not securely fixed, it can fall off during the ride and injure the cyclist.

    Rigid axle bushings use axle nuts on the outside of the frame plate. The axle nut contains a washer built into the axle nut, or a separate washer. If the washer has teeth or knurls, then they are connected to the recess to secure the wheel. Lubricate the threads on the axle when the wheel is mounted on the bike.

    It is often easier to mount the front wheel when the bike is on the ground. When placing the bike on the ground, the axle must be completely in the pad on the frame.

    Make sure that the cam lever for locking the axles of the wheels is in the open position and that its brakes are open.

    Place the wheel in the pad on the frame. Make sure the hub is fully seated in the frame or fork.

    • On the rear wheel, first turn the gear back and place the smallest gear between the top and bottom of the chain. Place the wheel between the brake pads, hooking the smallest gear on the chain.
    • Cam mechanism for securing the axles of the wheels: tighten the axle so that the lever meets resistance 90 ° from the frame or fork.
    • Straight axle: move the axle in place and turn clockwise until it stops.
    • Solid axle: tighten both nuts on the axle until they stop.
    • The use of a torque wrench is recommended. However, if it is not available, an effort must be made. For 25 Nm, apply about 40 pounds of pressure to the end of a 5 “wrench.

    Determine the end position of the lever closing. Rotate the front arm and adjusting nut so that the arm ends up just at the front of the fork. Place the rear arm between the chain support and the seat. Reposition the lever as needed if it is not fully closed.

    rear, wheel, speed, bike

    Re-remove the brake mechanism if applicable.

    Make sure the wheel is in the center of the frame or fork. Loosen the nuts on the axle and, if necessary, adjust the center of the wheel in the frame and retighten.

    Make sure the brake pad rim is centered on the wheel and adjust as needed.

    Quick release

    The eccentric mechanism uses a hollow hub axle to secure the wheel axles, equipped with a shaft, a lever that acts as a cam mechanism, and an adjusting nut. The cam exerts tension on the shaft and pulls, and the adjusting nut is pressed firmly against the pad on the frame. This tension holds the wheel securely to the frame.

    The adjusting nut determines the amount of tension on the cam lever to secure the wheel axles and cam. Lubricate the cam gear, if applicable. sticky or dry.

    The eccentric mechanism for securing the axles of the wheels is equipped with two conical springs. The small end of the spring faces the axis and the large end faces outward. These springs make it easier to fit the wheel. If one or both springs are twisted or damaged, they can be removed. They don’t matter as long as the wheel is firmly attached to the bike.

    The so-called “open cam” may require more tension. These levers have a cam mechanism and must be lubricated frequently.