How to change the rear wheel on a speed bike
Carrying out a spring revision of my old high-speed bike, I found a “eight” on the rear wheel. a change in its geometry. The rim was bent so much that it constantly touched the brake pads, making it impossible to drive safely.
First we decided to tighten the knitting needles. There are special ways to do this at home. For those who are interested, it is enough to search the Internet for how to fix the G8. On closer inspection, a pair of spokes was found to be missing. The plastic spoke guard installed on the wheel makes it difficult to install new ones, so it must be completely disassembled.
Turn the bike upside down, unscrew the eccentric clamp nut, remove the eccentric itself from the hole in the axle, release the footrest, remove the chain and wheel. In this case, you need to loosen the brake pads and release air from the wheel so that the tire does not cling to them.
Unscrew the nipple, pull out one side of the tire, gently prying it with a flat screwdriver, without breaking the camera. Take out the camera, then remove the tires.
Now we need to remove the stars. It is impossible to do this without a special Puller, so we took care of its purchase in advance.
Inserts the puller inside the sprocket and unscrew it with a gas wrench. By the way, for THESE purposes, any key for 24.
Our speed bike had a single rim wheel. Almost all modern VELOBIKES are equipped with double rim wheels. They are believed to be stronger and more reliable. The difference in price is not very big, so we listened to the seller and bought a copy with a double rim.
At first, the plan for replacing the rear wheel on a high-speed bike seemed simple: screw the sprockets onto a new one, insert the camera, tires, and mount on the bike. But upon closer inspection, it turned out that the wheel wasps are different. The old one. with a hole inside for the eccentric, and the new one. without it.
Therefore, I had to rearrange from the old wheel to the new one. This requires 2 keys. We hold the locknut with one, and unscrew the second with the second. Having unscrewed, remove the washer and unscrew the locknut, which is the boot of the bearing. While loosening the nut, watch out for the balls, which can fall out of the gap formed. Now you can take it out here.
In the same way we remove from the new wheel. The grease in it is fresh, thick, so the bearing balls, stuck to it, were in their place.
Gently, added fresh lubricant, stood here with a hole for the eccentric on the new wheel and tighten the nuts in the reverse order.
It is necessary to tighten the nuts with a cone for the bearing until there is no play in the carriage, but at the same time the wheel rotates freely. On both sides of the axle along the edges we leave a space equal to 1 cm so that it fits into the eyes of the rear fork of the bicycle. This distance is regulated by a bushing washer. Tightening the second nut, use the key to Fix the first so that it does not move, otherwise the wheel will spin with effort.
Then we collect everything in the reverse order. We install the protection of the spokes, using the Puller we twist the asterisks.
On the one hand, fill the tires, insert the camera, fill the tires completely. We pump the chamber with a pump, then we bleed the air so that it fits into place.
Now we take the wheel, put the chain on the sprockets and install it in the eyes of the fork. Tires, pressed on it, must be pushed between the brake pads.
Install the footrest, insert the eccentric clip and secure it with a nut.
Adjust the brakes by attaching the pads to the rim. We pump up the camera and make a test drive. This completes the replacement of the rear wheel of the sports bike. If you liked the article, share it on social networks.
Adjust the position of the pads
“Fasten” the brake by squeezing the levers and placing the cable guide (C) in the stop (D). Loosens shoe retaining bolt (K) with a hexagon. Presses the lever with the block to the rim and set the block so that it:
- Adhered to the rim with the entire surface
- Did NOT touch the tire
- Placed parallel to the rim
In this position, the block must be fixed by tightening the bolt. If the bolt is heavy, the block can move, and it needs to be corrected. It will be easier if you find an assistant who will grip and hold the brake lever while you tighten the bolt.
If your brakes squeal, try the following.
Before tightening the bolt, place a folded sheet of paper under the rear (in the direction of travel) of the shoe, then tighten the bolt. So the pads will be smoother to press against the rim when braking (first by the front, then by the rear) and will NOT “creak”.
Do the same with the second block.
How to set up rim brakes on a bicycle
The braking system is one of the most important technical components of a bicycle. Her condition directly depends on the safety and the cyclist worthy of the road users. Serviceable brakes are essential in any situation, from riding in parks to strong cycling.
In the modern classical sense, a bicycle brake is a pressure mechanism that acts on the wheel rim. There are actually several types of brakes, however v-brake (rim) is the most common option on bicycles of various classes.
Adjusting the brakes (V-Brake)
Setting up the brakes means paying attention to every detail, from the brake levers to the brake pads.
First step. Adjusting the brake levers
Brake levers Should be located so that they can be reached quickly and comfortably. In order to adjust the position of the brake lever Loosen the fastening screw, place the handle as it is convenient for you and fix it. Usually there is a screw on the brake lever, with which you can adjust the distance of the brake lever to the grip. adjust the position of the lever with it.
Step two. Position of the brake pads
It is easier to adjust the position of the brake pads as follows: press one of the pads with your hands close to the rim, adjust its position. Make sure that the block is not too low (the edge of the block is below the rim), but not too high. the block touches the tires.
On the next moment I want to pay special attention, since there is little clear written about it. Until the nut of which the shoe is fixed is not tightened, the shoe has three degrees of freedom: the washers form something like a ball joint. (Pay attention how many washers are there? That’s what they are for!). It is believed that the leading edge of the pads should touch the rim slightly earlier than the rear. Therefore, we do this: put a small gasket under the rear end (see Fig.).
This number of washers is needed to get something like a ball joint
Now you can tighten the nuts that fix the block.
Step three. Centering the positions of the levers
At this step, you need to fix the brake cable: so that the brake pads touch the rims at least a little if you press the brake lever. There are special bolts at the bottom of the levers, which adjust the tension of the springs, which press the pads against the rim.
We set it up as follows: press the brake and see which of the pads touches earlier. In the one that touched before. increasing the spring tension (or vice versa, weaken it on the other side). It is necessary to ensure that the pads touch the rim at the same time.
Fourth step. Adjusting the distance from the pads to the rim
I believe that this distance should be as small as possible. (1-2 mm. If the rim is even). But then the brakes will work very sharply. the slightest pressure leads to sharp braking. Therefore, the distance can be made a little more.
The distance is adjusted in two steps: first, due to the screw, which attaches the cable to the brakes. Then fine tuning on the brake lever.
The large washer acts as a lock: when it is tightened, the cable tension adjustment screw cannot be returned.
Setting up disc brakes
As a rule, the adjustment of the disc brakes is to periodically tighten the cable. But often you have to replace the pads, however, on disc brakes they wear out longer than on rim brakes. First you need to find out which specific disc brakes are installed on the bike. brake pad adjustments in the Hydraulic and mechanical system will differ.
Experts recommend taking note of the following points:
- If there are hydraulic disc brakes on the bike, then replacing the pads may NOT be necessary. they are able to do it on their own. But one nuance should be taken into account. if the hydraulic system is of a closed type, then you will have to adjust the pads manually. for this, special valves are provided.
- If you have to adjust disc mechanical brakes, then you will need to pull the cable according to the above instructions and check the location of the pads. the distance between them and the disc should be within 0.2-0.4 mm.
- In order to adjust the pads with disc mechanical brakes, you need to use special bolts. by tightening them, you can see how the pad moves. You need to be especially careful when setting the distance between the pad and the disc. 0.3 mm is too small, it’s easy to make a mistake.
After carrying out the work, be sure to check the operation of the brake system in action. ride your bike a few meters and try to brake. If the cable is too tight, or the pads are too close to the disc, then too sharp braking will occur. this is a “surprise” in which the cyclist begins to move forward, but without his vehicle. Therefore, when driving for a test, you need to be extremely careful and careful, if necessary, the disc brake system is adjusted again taking into account previous errors.
How to install and configure V-brake yourself
Installing the brake from scratch:
- Attach the levers to the bike frame.
- Insert the drive cable into the brake lever.
- Install the handle on the steering wheel, insert the cable into the grooves on the frame (if any).
- Connect the cable to the levers and put the spring.
After installation, you will definitely need to adjust the brakes.
The accuracy of the mechanism largely depends on its settings. So, even an expensive system will not work well without proper adjustment, and conversely, a mid-range V-brake can outperform a disc brake in efficiency. What needs to be done to adjust the brakes?
Adjust the cable tension. After adjusting the brake should instantly respond to the compression of the handle and rebound when it is released. If the pads do not move away from the rims, this indicates insufficient tension. On the overtightened cable, the handle will be hard to press, and the sheath may burst.
The tension is adjusted with a bolt on the side of the levers. The setup looks like this:
- Reset Springs.
- Loosen the cable fixing bolt.
- Select the tension so that in the fully clamped position the distance from the handle to the steering wheel corresponds to the thickness of the finger.
If damage has been noticed on the cable sheath, it is recommended to immediately put a new set.
Clearance adjustment. The optimal distance is 2. 3 mm from the edge of the pad to the rim. Determination of brake pad wear: cannot be used when the diverter grooves are completely erased (the whole surface is flat).
How do I fit new pads? The location of the rim plate affects the size of the contact area of the pads with it, the braking force and the life of the material. For brake pads with soft rubber surfaces, install them with the leading edge closer to the rim. Brake pads made of hard material are placed strictly parallel to the wheel rotation surface.
If your bike has cartridge pads, you only need to change the pads. Their position is set with a cotter pin; before removing the old surface, it is removed from the body. Similarly, in the reverse order, insert a new pad and fix it with a cotter pin.
Adjustment of the position and displacement of shoe housings are carried out by means of a bolt and washers. For accurate fixation, you need to squeeze the brake and set the position of the pads strictly on the surface of the rim.
The last step will be to test the operation of the system in practice, that is, in real driving conditions. As a rule, the V-brake setting is obtained immediately. However, if braking is delayed or the handle does not fully return to its original position, the brakes must be readjusted.
How to check and adjust the brakes
There are clear instructions for checking and adjusting the brake system of a bicycle. If you adhere to it, then the whole process will take little time and will be effective.
Procedure for checking and adjusting the brake system of a bicycle:
- Dry brake test. It is necessary to raise the front wheel and, having unwound it, press the left brake lever. If the wheel comes to a sudden stop during this test, the braking system is in order and no maintenance is required. It is worth considering one nuance. if the brake lever touches the steering wheel, then you just need to pull the cable. The operation of the rear wheel brake system is checked in the same manner. To tighten the cable, you need to use curly bolts. just tighten them a little and, if only minor adjustments are required, this will correct the situation. It often happens that such a minimum adjustment does not work. in this case, we look at where the end of the cable is on the bike (it is always longer than necessary in advance), unscrew the bolt that holds it. It remains only to tighten the pliers part of the cable and tighten the bolt, applied Possible force.
- Checking the brake pads. After the brake levers have been tested, the condition of the brake pads should be carefully examined. However, the order of action can be changed. first work with the pads, and then with the handles.
The setting of the brake system for rim and disc types is different, since different rotating mechanisms and pads are used.
Adjusting the rim brakes
Mountain bikes use a v-brake braking system. on its example, we will consider the principles of tuning, since it is also available on second bicycles with rim brakes. The difference can only consist in a different arrangement of bolts and screws, which will need to be tightened / tightened.
Note: it is important to observe three main rules:
- Pads must be parallel to the rim;
- The gap between the rim and the block should NOT be more or less than 1 mm;
- The pads should be symmetrical in relation to each other.
How to achieve these guidelines when adjusting rim brakes on a bicycle:
- You need to find a hex nut. it fixes the pads. To loosen it and set the brake pads in the desired position, you need to press the brake lever and watch how the pad touches the rim. By releasing the brake lever, the shoe can be set to the desired position. it moves up, down and at an angle.
- The distance between the block and the rim of the wheel should not be more than 1 mm, although in some models of bicycles there are also 2-3 mm. exact information about a particular vehicle can be obtained either from the instructions for it or on the Internet for technical characteristics. It should be noted that braking of the wheel should occur even with the minimum pressing of the brake lever. That is, if the wheel stops only when the brake lever is fully pressed “all the way”, then this is incorrect.
After carrying out all the specified work, it is imperative to check the operation of the brake system. First, this is done at idle speed. lift the front wheel up, spin it and press the handle sharply, then do the same with the rear wheel. The next step is to check the operation of the brake system “in action”. sit on the bike and ride 3-5 meters, braked sharply. If the bike stops even when the brake lever is pressed to a minimum, then the system has been serviced correctly.
Braking system characteristics
The following terms are used to qualitatively describe the operation of rim brakes:
- Impact strength;
- Wear resistance;
- Service requirements;
- Comparative features.
The force of impact, or braking, is a parameter that shows how much the brake can clamp the rim so that the bike cannot be moved. Maximum effort is required only to stop completely and lock in place. On the road, the effort is NOT fully used to adjust the speed. The range of action on the wheel rim by pressing the handle is called modulation, or accuracy, of the brakes.
An active cyclist uses his transport not only in dry and cloudless weather. Rain, mud, sand. everyone who rolls out their bike on long trips will have to face this. The effectiveness of brakes allows you to describe their behavior in a wide variety of conditions.
Durability is a measure of durability, taking into account the instructions for using the bicycle as a whole. Timely maintenance can increase the service life of the braking system. Service Requirements describe how to properly install and adjust the machine, how often to do this, and guidance on how to replace parts.
How to put the brakes on a speed bike
Installation and adjustment of the rear gear
Remove the rear wheel from the frame and the cassette from the hub. Use a whip chain to hold the cassette in place and a snap ring tool and an adjustable wrench to remove the snap ring. Once the cassette is off, it’s time to put on the rear gear and line up the chain line. You need to use a spacer to align the rear gear with the middle ring on the connecting rods. It takes a few tries to get it right.
Place gears and spacers on wheels where you think they might be close, but don’t pull the circlip down too tight. Insert the wheel into the frame and run the chain across the gear and sprocket. Is it straight? Perhaps there is. Remove the rear wheel and move the gear / spacers to get closer. Repeat as needed, and once you’re happy with it, tighten the retaining ring downward. You probably will NOT be 100% perfect, but try to get as close to it as possible. A straight chain will run more smoothly, wear much more slowly, and are less likely to slide off the chainring.
Nice straight chain.
Council. It’s hard to tell if the chain is straight just by looking at it. One of the frame tubes won’t be parallel to the chain, so it’s hard to visualize. Here’s what I do: Place a ruler (I use a level) on the chainrings going back towards the rear wheel. If the chain is straight, it will remain at the same distance from the straight edge all the way back.
Straight edge makes it easy to tell if your chain is good.
Read more: How to Adjust and Adjust Indexed Rear Derailleurs
Spacer kit. With the purchase of the kit, Yakiy includes different sizes of spacers to fine tune the position of the rear gear for a truly straight chain line. Some cheaper kits only come with two spacers. I do not recommend them.
Rear hub. If your hub has a steel housing with a hub (typically found on most low end bikes) a cheap stamped cog will do, but if your hub has an aluminum hub casing you should get a special SS cog with a wider base to avoid the hub casing extruding.
Tensioner. It keeps the chain in good condition and tightens and prevents it from falling. There is a small chance that you will not need it, but very small. Take one. You can always pick it up if it turns out that you don’t need it.
Chain. Most stainless steel rear cogwheels are not suitable for 9-step chains, so you will need a stainless steel chain or 8-step chain. If you are remodeling an old bike, it may already have an 8 speed chain on it, so DO NOT hesitate to reuse this chain on your SS setup unless it is too worn out.
Some companies offer stainless steel conversion kits that include spacers, teeth and tensioner, which is easier and cheaper than buying the parts separately.
Brainw purchased Origin8 SS conversion kit that included multiple spacers, two gears and a tensioner.
A quick note in gear: The gear ratio / combination you use depends on your skill level and where you live. Someone in Denver, Colorado probably needs lighter gear than someone in Savannah, Georgia. Ask in your area for recommendations.
How to switch: the basics
So now that you have a basic understanding of what these gears are called, how do you switch them? Depending on the type of bike, your shifters may differ slightly; on road bikes (or any bike with a folding handlebar), your derailleurs. These are the same levers that you use to apply the brakes. To operate the switches, push the lever to the side until you hear a click. On most flat handlebar mountain and hybrid bikes, you shift gears with your thumb paddles. Some bicycles operate with “grip switches” or a dial, which is located inside where you place your hands. In THESE systems, you change gears by turning the dial back and forth.
Your shifters are connected to a cable enclosed in a protective cover. When you click on the gears, the cable tightens and looses, applying more or less force to the derailleurs, which moves your chain up and down the cassette or chain ring. Below we explain what each lever does:
Left hand: Controls the gears / front derailleur in front of them. Move the chain up and down the chain ring. These levers cause large jumps, gears when changing terrain.
Right hand: Controls the reverse gear / rear derailleur. Move the chain up and down the cassette. These levers are designed for small adjustments, transmission and use on small terrain changes.
Large lever: the larger of the two gear levers moves the chain to the larger rings. So big = big. Switching to large rings with the RIGHT hand will make pedaling easier. Shifting into higher gears with your left hand will make it HEAVY.
Small lever: The smaller of the two gear levers moves the chain into smaller rings. So small = small. Shifting to smaller rings with the RIGHT hand will make the pedal press harder. Shifting down the gear with your left hand will make pedaling easier.
No more / little leverage? You may have a SRAM road drivetrain that uses a “double-push” system. This means that there is a smaller lever hidden behind the larger brake lever and you can only move it in one direction. A long press (with two clicks) will move the chain to a simpler gear at the rear (right) and a larger and harder gear at the front (left). A short press (with one click) will move the chain to a smaller, stiffer gear at the rear (right) and a smaller and lighter gear at the front (left).
You may also have a handle shift. This means you have a dial where you turn back and forth to change gears. Turning the dial forward will shift the chain to a smaller and harder gear in the back (right hand) and a smaller and lighter gear in the front (left hand). Turning the disc back will move the chain to a larger and lighter gear in the back (right hand) and a larger and lighter gear. harder gear in front (left hand).
No more extra bits
It’s pretty simple, so I won’t go into details. Just remove all parts that you no longer need:
- Front derailleur
- Rear derailleur
- Front derailleur
- Rear derailleur
- All shift cables and housing
I will NOT need this bullshit anymore.
How to prevent a bicycle chain from falling off. Try these simple tips
Chain shipping can be annoying at best and sometimes dangerous, especially if it happens in traffic, so you need to minimize the chances of this happening by tuning your bike correctly.
If your chain starts to break off frequently, which was Not before, then something has changed in the settings of your bike. The first thing to do is to check that all the bolts of your drivetrain are tight, that nothing has moved or cracked, and that your rear wheel is properly seated in the dropouts.
Let’s see how you deal with other possible reasons your chain is breaking.
Effective and efficient gear shifting techniques
Ok, here’s the most important thing to remember when riding any bike NO PERFECT GEARS! Shift!
Too often we see people putting too much energy into their pedals when they climb a steep incline in a large chain ring, or swing their legs when they are spinning in a gear that is too light for the descent they are riding. ride. Maintain as constant cadence as possible (the rate at which your pedals complete a full revolution)! This requires one of two things: shifting gears or increasing power output. The problem with power output is that if you’re not Wonder Woman, you have a limited supply of power. We recommend changing gears frequently to improve efficiency while riding.
Lil’s Tip: Start shifting to lighter gears with your right hand early to maintain a steady rhythm. Remember, your right hand is for small terrain changes. If you find that your pedaling speed is slowing down dramatically, you may need to use the front derailleur (left hand) to facilitate shifting for the big climb ahead. But if you’re already uphill and putting out a lot of power to the pedals, you might notice that your front derailleur does NOT want to work! You will move, hear the grinding, but nothing will happen and you will most likely stop in the middle of the hill.
Instead of grinding these gears, you will need to apply a little more power to the pedal travel right before shifting, and then ease the pedal travel when shifting. With less pressure on your chain, it will be easier for your derailleur to remove your chain from a larger ring to a smaller one.!
Using the trim function
Some Road Bikes will be equipped with a “trim” switch in front of it. The pad allows minor adjustments to the front derailleur to eliminate chain friction, but not cause a complete shift to a different chain ring. This feature will come in handy when approaching the “cross chain” positions mentioned above.
So, if you are in the largest chain ring and start moving to the big barbs on the cassette with your right hand, you may begin to hear a grinding noise, which indicates that your chain is rubbing against the front derailleur. You can flip the small lever with your left hand once. to move the front derailleur slightly to match this chain position. Likewise, if you are in the smallest chain ring and start to move to the smaller prongs on the cassette and start to notice a grinding sound, you can move the switch slightly by pressing the larger lever once with your left hand.
Read more: How to Adjust Front Derailleur Indexing